Collateral Damage- My 70 Chevelle site build

[camcojb]

To begin, I want to thank those of you who donated towards this build. I cannot tell you how much it meant to me, and the donations were the reason I was able to get started on this build. I also want to thank Charley for bringing me this car, to motivate me to work on a project of my own. He's a great friend.

This car has been decades in the making, going all the way back to high school in the early 70's. A friend of the family had ordered a 71 El Camino SS brand new with an optional custom color from Chevy. This was back in the day when you could do this. The color was a Cadillac special order called Nutmeg Firemist metallic. He went out of town for a couple weeks and left the car with me to drive. Cowl hood with black stripes, Cragar mags, black tonneau cover, I was in heaven. I've never forgotten that car and the rare color combo, and always wanted to do one for myself. I've added a pic below of the color on a Yenko Nova.

The plan will use a SPEC chassis from Roadster Shop, an LS forced induction build from Texas Speed, Magnum T56 from American Powertrain and as many parts as our supporting vendors can supply, and make this an official Lateral-G build. You can see the list of sponsoring vendors in my signature, please show your support. I'm working on getting pics of the parts as they arrive.

Today I finally got the car on the lift and will be stripping it down to see where I am. It's going to need a lot of sheet metal "love", but I'll let my painter Jim determine the extent. Hopefully he's in a good mood... :ohsnap:I see little rust, but almost every panel has been damaged in the past. Here's a few pics of the car as planned in my head.

[andrewb70]

Looking forward to the build!

Andrew

[Che70velle]

Been waiting for this build a long time Jody. Excited to see this get started and I know the journey for you will be a great one. 2020 could sure use some more positive things happening, and I’m glad your starting this now.

[waynieZ]

I'm looking forward to seeing this start, I can't wait for more. Thanks for the trip down memory lane My father bought a new 70 Chevy Malibu goldwith a white vinyl top but with a white interior. It was what I learned to drive in. God I don't know how he didn't kill me with what I put him through with cars. lol
Subscribed!

[214Chevy]

Been waiting for this build a long time Jody. Excited to see this get started and I know the journey for you will be a great one. 2020 could sure use some more positive things happening, and I’m glad your starting this now.

Yeah...what Scott said!!

[WSSix]

This is going to be great. Best of luck with the build, Jody. And, thanks to everyone that's supporting the build.

[andrewb70]

What's the plan for the engine? I assume this is what you are putting a Holley Dominator into?

Andrew

[camcojb]

What's the plan for the engine? I assume this is what you are putting a Holley Dominator into?

Andrew

427 cid LS, PRC heads, TSP intake, with a single Precision T7675 turbo. Not a max effort build, just something that will make good street power and be a lot of fun to drive.

[214Chevy]

427 cid aluminum LS, PRC heads, TSP intake, with a single Precision T7675 turbo. Not a max effort build, just something that will make good street power and be a lot of fun to drive.

That's gonna be really nice Jody. Can't wait to see this one come together.

[ZMAN1969]

from meager beginnings grow mighty oaks!

[camcojb]

Working on getting some pics of the tear down. The engine from Texas Speed showed up yesterday, and I had to mock up a couple pieces to get an idea of what it was going to look like.

[OLDFLM]

Working on getting some pics of the tear down.

You're pics are the perfect size btw!

[protour]

Looking forward to this build Jody. Been following your builds for years haha.

The 427 matched with the 7675 is going to be a light switch. Instant spool. We did one on a 5.3 and its a riot on 20psi.

[camcojb]

Looking forward to this build Jody. Been following your builds for years haha.

The 427 matched with the 7675 is going to be a light switch. Instant spool. We did one on a 5.3 and its a riot on 20psi.

Hope you're right because that's the plan. :drive::geezer:

[OLDFLM]

Intake looks tall Jody... do you foresee any hood clearance issues?

[ScotI]

Intake looks tall Jody... do you foresee any hood clearance issues?

I was just thinking the same thing....

[214Chevy]

Oh boy, do I know the feeling!! Please don't mention hood clearance issues. It's been a nightmare for me. :bang::bang::faint::faint:

[Chevelle]

Awesome

[camcojb]

Intake looks tall Jody... do you foresee any hood clearance issues?

I was just thinking the same thing....

We'll find out, the pic makes it look taller than it is. Should clear with a cowl hood, but may require inner structure trimming or an aftermarket hood that doesn't have any. If I can't make it fit I'll sell it and go another way.

[andrewb70]

Why not DBW?

Andrew

[camcojb]

Why not DBW?

Andrew

To get a good looking dbw throttle body is $700-$800, Holley sponsored this one. I've had mechanical tb's on turbos and blowers without a single issue.

[andrewb70]

To get a good looking dbw throttle body is $700-$800, Holley sponsored this one. I've had mechanical tb's on turbos and blowers without a single issue.

What's the diameter?

Andrew

[camcojb]

What's the diameter?

Andrew

It's a 92mm. The intake can accept a 102mm but since it's under boost instead of sucking through it like a roots I kept it smaller to keep the intake plumbing easier to deal with.

[andrewb70]

It's a 92mm. The intake can accept a 102mm but since it's under boost instead of sucking through it like a roots I kept it smaller to keep the intake plumbing easier to deal with.

A 92mm should be ok. I start to worry when I see smaller engine with the big 102mm TBs, especially when using a manual transmission. The 102s flow a lot of air at low throttle input and it becomes hard to drive from a stop. I have a customer who had exactly that issue and now that he has a stock 90mm DBW, he is much happier.

Andrew

[clill]

Son of a B**ch he is finally working on it....................

[camcojb]

Son of a B**ch he is finally working on it....................

Just wait until Jim see's it lol.

[clill]

Weren't any dents in it when I gave it to you.......

[camcojb]

Weren't any dents in it when I gave it to you.......

:confused59:

[Flash68]

So happy you are starting to crank on this Jody. :Tomcat:

What is the compression on the engine and how much psi you planning on throwing at it?

[camcojb]

So happy you are starting to crank on this Jody. :Tomcat:

What is the compression on the engine and how much psi you planning on throwing at it?

9.7:1, and maybe 14-15 psi max. Should live a long time.

[blowngasr]

:hairpullout::hairpullout::ohsnap::hairpullout:gue ss it’s time for...ROADTRIP!!...next weekend Jody?

[camcojb]

:hairpullout::hairpullout::ohsnap::hairpullout:gue ss it’s time for...ROADTRIP!!...next weekend Jody?

That's up to you, I know you're busy. I got a lot of the front end off today, I'll have the engine/trans out this week, and the interior stripped. Mainly need you to determine what you can fix and what sheetmetal parts I'll need.

[camcojb]

Pulled the front end off today. Next up is the engine and trans. Good news, no rust issues so far, and both fenders look usable to me. Lots of original clamps and pieces that a restorer may want.

[camcojb]

Took a break for lunch and then decided to go ahead and pull the engine and trans. Should have some nicer pics this week of the chassis going together if my parts arrive.

[214Chevy]

I see the chassis peeking out in the pic over to the left. :secret::wow:

[camcojb]

I see the chassis peeking out in the pic over to the left. :secret::wow:

:innocent:

[blowngasr]

:popcorn that poor door, needs lots of love, a lot of late nite, garage door shut, Barry White playin 🎶 lights down low.........sorry got carried away 😂

[blowngasr]

Oops on the popcorn,wrong button.

[OLDFLM]

9.7:1, and maybe 14-15 psi max. Should live a long time.

Power estimate? HP? Torque?

[raustinss]

yes ...all of them lol

[camcojb]

Power estimate? HP? Torque?

Somewhere around 700 rwhp is more than enough.

[camcojb]

Floors, firewall, and trunk look great.

[andrewb70]

Jody,

That's a super clean car to start with!

Andrew

[214Chevy]

That's good news Jody. I know that makes you happy to have one less thing to deal with.

[syborg tt]

Jodi,

I am so excited to see this project and looking forward to all of your updates !!!!

[camcojb]

Jody,

That's a super clean car to start with!

Andrew

On the inside and underside. Wish they would have treated the outside the same lol.

[Tinker]

On the inside and underside. Wish they would have treated the outside the same lol.

Why do I picture some old lady driving your car looking thru the half moon of the steering wheel? lol

[waynieZ]

Floors look in great shape nice place to start. If there was anything I wished I had known when I started my build was get the best car you can find for a starting point. Going to be sweet.

[camcojb]

Took the dash and wiring out this morning. Somebody left me a tip... :G-Dub:

[camcojb]

No surprises under the gas tank.

[214Chevy]

I mean, what'd you expect Jody? :lol::lol: It's a California car. Most of those are always a great starting point.

[camcojb]

Now I'm at the beauty part of beauty and the beast. :thumbsup: This week I should have enough stuff arrive so I can start test fitting the chassis and drivetrain.

[Che70velle]

Jody, that $5 looks to be an old one. What’s the date on it?
The 12 bolt in this car must have been swapped in? Interesting...

[camcojb]

Jody, that $5 looks to be an old one. What’s the date on it?
The 12 bolt in this car must have been swapped in? Interesting...

The bill is from 81. I didn't think the 12 bolts were hard to find in these, my buddies 72 small block non-SS had one too. I can't say for sure, but other than radiator hoses and an aftermarket radio, this car has no mods. At least it's something I can sell to buy more parts. :idea:

[camcojb]

Got the Baer brakes yesterday so I did a quick mock up so I could get the front wheels on and the chassis on the ground. Everything fit perfectly, no drama or "hotrodding" required.

Next up I'm going to pull the body off and get it on a rotisserie to do the inner tubs and cut the tunnel for trans clearance. Then get the body on the new chassis and finalize engine placement with the adjustable motor mounts.

[syborg tt]

Looks so good


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[214Chevy]

Sweet Jody!! What are your wheel specs?

[ScotI]

Sweet Jody!! What are your wheel specs?

x2..... And Tires? Looks like 315/335's?

[camcojb]

Sweet Jody!! What are your wheel specs?

x2..... And Tires? Looks like 315/335's?

Wheels are 18x9.5” w/5.875”bs front, and 18x12 w/6.25” bs rear with a 57" rearend.

Tires are BFG Rivals 275/35 up front and 335/30 rear.

[WSSix]

Love the wheel design. Simple yet stylish. Not to mention FAT! Good lord those rear tires are wide.

[Ricochet]

Not taking long at all to get it rolling! Looks great... And yes... Those rear tires are huge! [emoji106]

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[andrewb70]

Moving fast!

Andrew

[Spiffav8]

Jody what transmission are you running?

Glad to see it's finally starting to take shape. Going to be sick!!

:captain:

[Flash68]

God dang that is awesome!

[camcojb]

Jody what transmission are you running?

Glad to see it's finally starting to take shape. Going to be sick!!

:captain:

It's a Magnum T56 from American Powertrain.

[camcojb]

Waiting on parts, so I figured I'd get some of the dirty work done for Painter Jim. Removed all the undercoating. I have some ABC Performance tubs coming so I didn't spend any time striping the inners. Next up is to do the tub swap when they get here later this week. Then I can set the body on the new chassis, figure out how much of the tunnel needs to be modded for the T56, and set the final engine position.

[WSSix]

Looks great to me. Is there any rust repair needed to the lower panels?

[camcojb]

Looks great to me. Is there any rust repair needed to the lower panels?

There is a very small area behind the drivers rear wheelwell, other than that it's just dents lol.

[214Chevy]

Great progress Jody...

[warhawkchevelle]

Looks great!

[Gmachine1911]

Congrats Jody, it’s shaping up very nicely! I wouldn’t know what to do with myself if I started with something that nice! Keep the updates coming...

[jarhead]

Great update,
Looking forward to see how the tunnel mod is done

[E.rodz]

wow another almost rust free Chevelle! car looks like it is coming along great! here is a link to a transmission tunnel modified to run a t56 you might be interested in on saving some time!

https://www.tinmanfabrication.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=164/category_id=93/mode=prod/prd164.htm

[64G-lark]

The bottom looks really clean. Looking forward to the build.

[camcojb]

Well, the Hooker turbo manifolds clear but too close to the Roadster Shop frame for my liking. So I found Zach at GP Headers (https://www.gpheaders.com/). Super nice guy to work with, custom stuff is NOT an issue with them, and turnaround was only 2 weeks. Welds are beautiful and looks like it'll fit nicely, but won't know for sure until I get my front drive and fender/radiator setup on later this week. If it needs tweaking he'll handle it. Pricing was also very good in my opinion.

[syborg tt]

Hot Dam !!!

That looks awesome.

[Flash68]

Wow that is looking hot!

[214Chevy]

Well, that doesn't suck!!

[waynieZ]

Wow, sexy!

[cantcatchmitch]

that is some sweet stainless work!!!!!

[streetbird]

look super nice. can't wait to see the exhaust setup for that single turbo setup

[Stielow]

Jody - Looks great!

:king:

[camcojb]

I'm not a sheet metal guy so I was looking to have somebody do the minitub for me. I bought the ABC Performance tubs. When I couldn't get the local shops to even contact me back after several tries I gave up and decided to do it myself.

Most shops claim 30-40 hours labor for this, so just for fun I'm going to keep track of my hours. Never done one before so we'll see how it goes. I cut out the hole for my T56, but the patch panel I had is not big enough, so I ordered a Tinman Fab unit made specifically for this car, but it was also not tall enough, and the hole I cut is pretty much minimal for clearance. So now I have a Bowler universal tunnel that looks like it'll work. I'll be doing that after the minitub.

So this is where I am after 5 hours; got the spot welds drilled out and the old tub removed.

https://cdn.shopify.com/s/files/1/0105/6889/2479/products/bowler-1967-1969-camaro-t-56-magnum-transmission-tunnel_1800x1800.jpg?v=1576181920

[Ricochet]

You got this easily. Just takes patience and you have that. Look forward to seeing them in. Keep up the great work!!

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[Ketzer]

I did DSE minis on my Nova. At the time, the thing that really seemed to take forever was creeping up on the fit. Taking the tubs in and out a million times. DSE had templates and I used them, but it still only got me close. Each side was completely different and had fit issues in totally different places....
Having said all that... I really enjoyed it and would definitely do it again!!


Jeff-

[camcojb]

Having said all that... I really enjoyed it and would definitely do it again!!


Jeff-

I think you're a weirdo lol. Building an engine, chassis assembly, fabbing parts, wiring, tuning... Those are fun things to me. This is work. :disgusted:

[camcojb]

12 hours in and one side is in place. Still need to do some small patch panels, but the hard part is done.

[64G-lark]

Looks good Jody. That car is really clean on the bottom. I used that same style trans tunnel on the Skylark I built a few years back. Worked good and saved a lot of fabrication time.

[syborg tt]

Looks very nice.


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[Goosesdad]

Looks great

[camcojb]

Only took 3 hours to get the second tub in, took some shortcuts after doing the first side. I still have some welding to do so they're not 100% finished, but they're at least in place.

While I'm waiting on the front drive so I can finish the mods to the turbo hot side I started fitting my tunnel piece from Bowler. I'll get all the pics posted up as I complete it. I did order a steam line kit from Motion Raceworks, love the look and fit.

[214Chevy]

That hard line, steam line kit is sweet.

[syborg tt]

It's a shame to cover up something that beautiful.



While I'm waiting on the front drive so I can finish the mods to the turbo hot side I started fitting my tunnel piece from Bowler. I'll get all the pics posted up as I complete it. I did order a steam line kit from Motion Raceworks, love the look and fit.

[andrewb70]

Jody,

Time to get the Holley wiring harness out and start laying it out on the engine. If you want a really clean wiring job, I think you will find that certain parts of the stock wiring harness will need to be addressed. Let me know if I can be of help.

Andrew

[syborg tt]

I agree


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[camcojb]

Anyone else having fun getting parts nowadays? :waveflag: While I'm still waiting for the main pieces I need to finish up so I can get the car to Jim for bodywork I decided to do some little stuff that I can. Started mocking up the #8 stainless hard line. Thanks to Marty for the tip on Notchead line clamps. I was going to run billet line clamps to match the brake lines on the other side, but it was going to be easier to have the lines spaced off the frame for hooking the fuel filter and bracket, so I ordered a pack of the Notchead clamps (https://www.notchead.com/store/p39/NotcHead_Hard_Line_Clamps.html).

I am using the .049" wall tubing; harder to bend but doesn't wrinkle when run through a mandrel bender. Was only able to do two sections until the fuel filter arrives, but came out nice. Also, those clamps hole the line very securely, no way they'll pop out or move.

Ended up using an Earls bulkhead fitting which was the perfect length to go through the Roadster Shop frame rails.

[Flash68]

Geez that's nice Jody! :thumbsup:

[camcojb]

Had extra tubing and the bender and flare tools are still out, so I decided to do the front and rear fuel rails.

[syborg tt]

Jody Jody Jody

Your killing me. That looks so nice now I want to try to bend some hard lines.

Great work and nice progress.


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[camcojb]

Jody Jody Jody

Your killing me. That looks so nice now I want to try to bend some hard lines.

Great work and nice progress.


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I was going to take the easy way out and use flexible teflon lined hose for everything but got bored waiting for parts... :lol:

[waynieZ]

It's all looking amazing, Beautiful job.

[syborg tt]

I was going to take the easy way out and use flexible teflon lined hose for everything but got bored waiting for parts... :lol:

Not going to lie to you I have the new Holley PFT lines and I am using it most everywhere I can as I love how easy it is to run. Maybe on version 3.0 when I cut the floor out of the car and do a full Roadster Shop Chassis I will learn how to do stainless hard lines.

on a side note check out www.squeegskustoms.com as they have some really cool stuff that you may like.

[camcojb]

Not going to lie to you I have the new Holley PFT lines and I am using it most everywhere I can as I love how easy it is to run. Maybe on version 3.0 when I cut the floor out of the car and do a full Roadster Shop Chassis I will learn how to do stainless hard lines.

on a side note check out www.squeegskustoms.com as they have some really cool stuff that you may like.

VERY cool stuff! You know, you're as good as Charley at spending other peoples money... :lol:

[syborg tt]

VERY cool stuff! You know, you're as good as Charley at spending other peoples money... :lol:

LOL - It is so much easier spending others peoples money. Plus my wife won't be mad at me as I am not the our spending the money.

[WSSix]

Hard lines are where it's at, Jody. Great work so far. Keep it up!

[camcojb]

Borrowed a buddies filter so I could finish mocking up the 1/2" hard lines.

[jarhead]

Those frame standoffs holding the lines are very cool!

[cjfirstgen]

I used the NotcHead line clamps as well. Looks great.

[andrewb70]

Had extra tubing and the bender and flare tools are still out, so I decided to do the front and rear fuel rails.

Jody,

One thing to keep in mind is that those hard 90 degree fittings really hamper flow. Each one of those fittings is the equivalent of adding 12 feet of hose to the fuel system.

Andrew

[camcojb]

Great point Andrew. That's probably why I still had those new ones sitting in a drawer for several years lol. I think these came with something else I bought many years ago. Just used them for mockup. I hate forged 90's, super restrictive. I have mandrel bent ones on order, still showing backordered.

[67pro-street]

Looking good Jody, you are making great progress on this...don't slow down like I did on my project ;)

[camcojb]

Why not DBW?

Andrew

Decided to make you happy... :lol: Actually, decided I wanted the Dakota Digital cruise control, and other options that DBW gives you, so I picked up a Nick Williams Performance throttle body.

[andrewb70]

It'll be interesting to see if the DD cruise control works with the Holley EFI.

Andrew

[syborg tt]

Decided to make you happy... :lol: Actually, decided I wanted the Dakota Digital cruise control, and other options that DBW gives you, so I picked up a Nick Williams Performance throttle body.


Wow that is an incredible piece


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[camcojb]

It'll be interesting to see if the DD cruise control works with the Holley EFI.

Andrew

According to Clayton Machine Works and Dakota Digital it will work. Clayton uses a GM DBW pedal that's on the list of pedals supported by the Holley EFI, and that's what Dakota Digital wants.

[camcojb]

Only took 6 months, but my plates finally showed up. Surprised these were available.

[bkswede]

Hey Jody,

Great work on all the lines - they look awesome! New throttle body is a work of art, too... hope you’re able to get the cruise control to work with the Holley EFI - might need to think about that for mine. Like the plate, too, and hard to believe that was still available in CA!

Brian


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[camcojb]

Thanks to Rick Love at Vintage Air and Nathan at Kahn Media I have a front drive! :thankyou: This is a brand new item for Vintage Air, using a one-piece casting to hold all the accessories. Also it's a mid mount, which I much prefer, keeping all the accessories in tight to the middle of the engine instead of hanging up high or outside the heads. Fit and finish is excellent, a very simple and sturdy install. Now I can finish up the hot side fab for the Turbo and get rolling again.

[ScotI]

I saw these in the VA catalog when we were @ LoneStar Throwdown/Conroe TX a couple of weeks ago.
Vintage Air's version of Holley's Mid-Mount kit/s.

[camcojb]

I saw these in the VA catalog when we were @ LoneStar Throwdown/Conroe TX a couple of weeks ago.
Vintage Air's version of Holley's Mid-Mount kit/s.

I love the billet pulleys on the VA kit.

[dontlifttoshift]

Oooh, I have been waiting for those to become available.

[camcojb]

Oooh, I have been waiting for those to become available.

Couple more weeks according to Rick. :thumbsup:

[Blown353]

Nice.

Does the new cast center use a LT "cartridge" style water pump?

I've got one of the older black anodized billet bracket VA frontrunners, it's a nice piece (but more belt wrap on the power steering pulley world be nice)

[camcojb]

Nice.

Does the new cast center use a LT "cartridge" style water pump?

I've got one of the older black anodized billet bracket VA frontrunners, it's a nice piece (but more belt wrap on the power steering pulley world be nice)

It is a bolt in cartridge style pump, not sure what it came off of.

[Musclerodz]

Nice.

Does the new cast center use a LT "cartridge" style water pump?

I've got one of the older black anodized billet bracket VA frontrunners, it's a nice piece (but more belt wrap on the power steering pulley world be nice)

If its the same as Holley I think its Ford

[dontlifttoshift]

Holley uses the LT1 cartridge. Not sure what Vintage Air is using.....just guessing Stewart is making something for them so they can use the bolt on pulley.

[WSSix]

That's a good looking front drive, Jody. Will you leave it raw aluminum or coat it?

[camcojb]

That's a good looking front drive, Jody. Will you leave it raw aluminum or coat it?

Wasn't planning on coating it.

[clill]

Been a month since the last update............................................ ....:mad:

[fleetus macmullitz]

Been a month since the last update............................................ ....:mad:


https://i.postimg.cc/4x6ZRNM4/D2-F7026-F-4825-472-D-9399-3-F6119-D20703.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

:P

[camcojb]

Been a month since the last update............................................ ....:mad:

well, waiting on parts for the most part. And finally finished the house remodel though the wife now has me working on the chicken coop to turn it into a workout room. Tearing the roof off now... :whenitsdone:

[214Chevy]

well, waiting on parts for the most part. And finally finished the house remodel though the wife now has me working on the chicken coop to turn it into a workout room. Tearing the roof off now... :whenitsdone:

Seems like that's the norm right now. Many manufacturer's are having issues with getting materials in to make whatever parts they sell.

[OLDFLM]

well, waiting on parts for the most part. And finally finished the house remodel though the wife now has me working on the chicken coop to turn it into a workout room. Tearing the roof off now... :whenitsdone:

With the cost of lumber these days it may be cheaper to keep working on your car!

[camcojb]

With the cost of lumber these days it may be cheaper to keep working on your car!

Great point... and true! :lol:

[gnx7]

This car got progress done fast! Looking good.

My Chevelle was pretty much just as rust free aside from the panel below the rear window needed replaced. I'm so happy I didn't have to deal with rust issues.

[LS442]

Awesome build!

I got my Spec chassis coming in very soon (hopefully), what tank are you going to run? I was looking at Ricks tanks, seeing if there were other options as 8-10 week build time does seem like a while.

[camcojb]

Awesome build!

I got my Spec chassis coming in very soon (hopefully), what tank are you going to run? I was looking at Ricks tanks, seeing if there were other options as 8-10 week build time does seem like a while.

I've got mine coming from Rock Valley (https://www.rockvalleyantiqueautoparts.com/catalog.htm) I've had 2-3 of their tanks in the past, great product. Plus they're willing to make changes you request for different fuel systems, etc.

[camcojb]

Who needs paint... :confused18:

[Avgasman]

Patina is all the rage now and you could always paint it later....

[camcojb]

Patina is all the rage now and you could always paint it later....

What about big dents... :lol:

[Che70velle]

Jody, I realize your a long way from the end zone, but you have to be tickled with the stance. It’s going to sit perfect! Fitment on chassis ok? Any surprises?

[WSSix]

Big dents just mean you don't have to worry about where you park it. What's another ding?

Coming along great, Jody.

[camcojb]

Jody, I realize your a long way from the end zone, but you have to be tickled with the stance. It’s going to sit perfect! Fitment on chassis ok? Any surprises?

So far so good. Zero surprises, the Roadster Shop chassis fit perfect without issue. They give you a book with the chassis that has all the torque specs, alignment specs, suggested ride heights, etc. I set the rear coil overs to where I liked the stance and then took a measurement, and it measured to exactly where they suggested. Apparently they have a good handle on these deals lol.

[Musclerodz]

PDR that bitch and drive it. Doesn't have to be perfect.

[fleetus macmullitz]

Jody,

Forget all that bodywork...just run it in ‘adaptive camouflage’ mode...lol!
(2min47sec mark).

4uZRYO8BcL4

[ScotI]

Repair the damages & have them blend the color doing Faux patina for the areas. Looking good so far for sure.

[Avgasman]

PDR that bitch and drive it. Doesn't have to be perfect.

Took the words right of my mouth!

[Panteracer]

I love working on my crappy old C10 trucks
Don't have to worry about Paint, dents, etc
The engines and undersides are nicer than the
body. Makes life easier

Jody,
Looks like things are coming along nicely
Roadster Shop Chassis are killer

Bob

[clill]

What about big dents... :lol:
Are you still bitching about the car ?

[camcojb]

Are you still bitching about the car ?

You know me, not happy unless I'm bitching about something.

[NOPANTS68]

Man I love this car. Killer color choice!

[camcojb]

I'm using stainless turbo manifolds from GP Headers (https://www.gpheaders.com/). They had a single turbo kit for trucks so I figured I'd give it a shot. It actually fits the Chevelle, but on the passenger side the crossover pipe was right on one of the electric fans. So I ordered up some stainless bends from Stainless Bros. and built my own crossover tube. I gained almost two inches of clearance on the fans. For now it's just tacked together, I'll get it welded up later, but nice to have it done.

The first two pics are the original crossover with a stainless flex joint. The last three pics are my new setup, and I decided to use a slip joint instead of the stainless flex joint, seems to be the best way to allow for expansion and movement.

[214Chevy]

Looked damn good either way Jody. But, I most definitely get the aspect of fit, form and function.

[protour]

I'm using stainless turbo manifolds from GP Headers (https://www.gpheaders.com/). They had a single turbo kit for trucks so I figured I'd give it a shot. It actually fits the Chevelle, but on the passenger side the crossover pipe was right on one of the electric fans. So I ordered up some stainless bends from Stainless Bros. and built my own crossover tube. I gained almost two inches of clearance on the fans. For now it's just tacked together, I'll get it welded up later, but nice to have it done.

The first two pics are the original crossover with a stainless flex joint. The last three pics are my new setup, and I decided to use a slip joint instead of the stainless flex joint, seems to be the best way to allow for expansion and movement.

Very happy to see the old flex joint gone and you went to a double slip!
Looks great Jody!

[camcojb]

At least the old flex joint was the better type, with the stainless accordion piece inside so the stainless braid can't collapse and clog the pipe. But the double slip is considered the best way to go and I was building it from scratch so I opted for that.

[protour]

At least the old flex joint was the better type, with the stainless accordion piece inside so the stainless braid can't collapse and clog the pipe. But the double slip is considered the best way to go and I was building it from scratch so I opted for that.
Definitely was the better one. Sounds like overall your much happier with gaining the extra space too.

[camcojb]

Drilled and tapped the Texas Speed intake for an air temp sensor. Like it in the intake instead of the air inlet tube as that's what the engine is actually seeing.

[Flash68]

Looking Killer Jody!

[camcojb]

Starting to look like a car.

[Spiffav8]

Starting to look like a car.

That's badass! :thumbsup::thumbsup:

[camcojb]

Just a few random pics. Just starting on the EFI wiring, making mods to the harness to fit better and cleaner. Put the Ron Davis Radiator and fan combo in to make sure the exhaust crossover clears. Next up will be figuring out the intercooler mounting and building the radiator hoses.

[Spiffav8]

Goofy gets it. :lol:

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-KFMKKck/1/497a7797/S/i-KFMKKck-S.jpg (https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-kgmtS/i-KFMKKck/A)

[camcojb]

Goofy gets it. :lol:



:hitaxeonthehead:

[572Camaro]

Camcojb,

Your build is amazing. I check for updates daily.
I truly appreciate all of your attention to detail.
Just as much, I appreciate your commitment as administrator.
Thank you.

Jim and Geralyn,

Don’t give up.

[jarhead]

That intake is awesome looking! Well so is everything else.:D

[camcojb]

Camcojb,

Your build is amazing. I check for updates daily.
I truly appreciate all of your attention to detail.
Just as much, I appreciate your commitment as administrator.
Thank you.

Jim and Geralyn,

Don’t give up.

That intake is awesome looking! Well so is everything else.:D
Thanks guys, truly appreciate it.

[camcojb]

Little bit more progress. Made a new 1/4 stainless line for my steam line kit. They normally just leave a open line on one end to put a rubber hose and run to the radiator. I drilled and tapped the water pump and made a one piece line to the pump. Also started mocking up the radiator hoses.

[OLDFLM]

Real estate is getting tight up front already Jody! It'll be interesting to see how you route the intake tube...

[camcojb]

Real estate is getting tight up front already Jody! It'll be interesting to see how you route the intake tube...

Always does. Starts out looking nice and open and as stuff is added the room is gone lol. The intake will be bending to the drivers side, across the top and then down. The real fun will be getting it out of and into the intercooler. With the four headlights of the 70 I can't fit it through the radiator support like on Malitude, so it'll have to snake underneath around the frame, hopefully not hanging down and visible from the front of the car.

[214Chevy]

Always does. Starts out looking nice and open and as stuff is added the room is gone lol.


Like me builder told me...I was trying to squeeze 10 lbs of s#!t into a 5 lb bucket. :lol::lol::lol::lol:

[camcojb]

Like me builder told me...I was trying to squeeze 10 lbs of s#!t into a 5 lb bucket. :lol::lol::lol::lol:

Exactly!

[protour]

Always does. Starts out looking nice and open and as stuff is added the room is gone lol. The intake will be bending to the drivers side, across the top and then down. The real fun will be getting it out of and into the intercooler. With the four headlights of the 70 I can't fit it through the radiator support like on Malitude, so it'll have to snake underneath around the frame, hopefully not hanging down and visible from the front of the car.

Is the engine intended to be installed that far forward? Seems very far forward. My passenger head has 3/4" between it and the firewall, I see you can fit your coils between the head and firewall!

[camcojb]

Is the engine intended to be installed that far forward? Seems very far forward. My passenger head has 3/4" between it and the firewall, I see you can fit your coils between the head and firewall!

Funny you mentioned that. I've been debating moving it back, there's advantages and disadvantages. I have the Dirty Dingo sliders so it'd be easy to slide back. My buddies 72 is in the same position and rides and handles just fine.

The reason I had it forward was "street car" so the difference in weight balance wasn't a major concern to me. Plus I wanted a simple coil relocation setup, I like the looks and fit of the ADE brackets. It also gives me more room at the back of the engine for EFI wiring, and access to the bellhousing bolts.

Moving it back gets me better weight balance, and more room between the radiator and engine. Might also be the difference in not having to trim the inner hood for intake clearance. But now I have to find a spot to mount the coils (not a huge deal). Turbo position should work but will be closer to the inner fender. Will have to re-do my upper radiator hose, and the rear fuel line into the intake, but minor stuff. IF I'm going to do it now is the time.

Bottom line, it was easier to do it the way I did, but since when are these cars supposed to be easy? :lol:

[protour]

Funny you mentioned that. I've been debating moving it back, there's advantages and disadvantages. I have the Dirty Dingo sliders so it'd be easy to slide back. My buddies 72 is in the same position and rides and handles just fine.

The reason I had it forward was "street car" so the difference in weight balance wasn't a major concern to me. Plus I wanted a simple coil relocation setup, I like the looks and fit of the ADE brackets. It also gives me more room at the back of the engine for EFI wiring, and access to the bellhousing bolts.

Moving it back gets me better weight balance, and more room between the radiator and engine. Might also be the difference in not having to trim the inner hood for intake clearance. But now I have to find a spot to mount the coils (not a huge deal). Turbo position should work but will be closer to the inner fender. Will have to re-do my upper radiator hose, and the rear fuel line into the intake, but minor stuff. IF I'm going to do it now is the time.

Bottom line, it was easier to do it the way I did, but since when are these cars supposed to be easy? :lol:

I was scratching my head at the space between the rad and front drive. I run truck accessories and was wondering how in the world I have more room than a car front drive haha.
I definitely understand you're reasoning! It does look great so far, just had to mention it :)

[dhutton]

Funny you mentioned that. I've been debating moving it back, there's advantages and disadvantages. I have the Dirty Dingo sliders so it'd be easy to slide back. My buddies 72 is in the same position and rides and handles just fine.

The reason I had it forward was "street car" so the difference in weight balance wasn't a major concern to me. Plus I wanted a simple coil relocation setup, I like the looks and fit of the ADE brackets. It also gives me more room at the back of the engine for EFI wiring, and access to the bellhousing bolts.

Moving it back gets me better weight balance, and more room between the radiator and engine. Might also be the difference in not having to trim the inner hood for intake clearance. But now I have to find a spot to mount the coils (not a huge deal). Turbo position should work but will be closer to the inner fender. Will have to re-do my upper radiator hose, and the rear fuel line into the intake, but minor stuff. IF I'm going to do it now is the time.

Bottom line, it was easier to do it the way I did, but since when are these cars supposed to be easy? :lol:

Since we are critiquing your build do you have any concerns about exhaust heat cooking your fan motors? It looks close in the pics. I know you can wrap the pipe but the insulation is not perfect. That being said I don’t know chit about building a turbo engine :)

Don

[ScotI]

Since we are critiquing your build do you have any concerns about exhaust heat cooking your fan motors? It looks close in the pics. I know you can wrap the pipe but the insulation is not perfect. That being said I don’t know chit about building a turbo engine :)

Don

I've had similar thoughts as well. Lots of these turbo set-ups on the NET & it's always had me wondering about exhaust heat related impact on items not normally subjected to the issue.

[camcojb]

Since we are critiquing your build do you have any concerns about exhaust heat cooking your fan motors? It looks close in the pics. I know you can wrap the pipe but the insulation is not perfect. That being said I don’t know chit about building a turbo engine :)

Don

I've had similar thoughts as well. Lots of these turbo set-ups on the NET & it's always had me wondering about exhaust heat related impact on items not normally subjected to the issue.

I don't. For one, I just moved the engine back 2"... :superhack: Plus I'm going to use Zycoat on the pipe; they claim it reduces radiant heat by 90%. Reviews look very good. If I'm not happy I'll also wrap it. On Malitude the pipes I wrapped with Thermotec wrap could be touched after driving without burning.

[camcojb]

Changed my mind and decided to remake the upper hose tubing, to get both bends in stainless 1.5" tubing. Moving the engine back gave me the additional room, before it was too close to get the 90 degree bend into the radiator in solid tubing, the molded hose could do a tighter bend.

[dhutton]

Hi Jody. What are you using to put the bead in the tube?

Thanks,
Don

[camcojb]

Hi Jody. What are you using to put the bead in the tube?

Thanks,
Don

Don,

I've had the Bead Form (https://www.trick-tools.com/Bead-Form-Store-993) bead roller for many years, works fantastic. At the time there weren't many others, but now there's several similar units.

[Blown353]

I can confirm that Jody's Beadform works great, even on 0.065" stainless, as I was in possession of Jody's for the last who knows how many years while trying to get my car finished and only recently returned it to him... (thanks again, by the way.) :lol:

A lot of the cheaper bead rollers won't handle stainless tubing. Aluminum and mild steel are OK, but they'll tweak or flat out break if doing stainless.

I have a tubing beadroller die set for my Mittler Brothers panel bead roller that also works, but I don't care for how far back it puts the bead from the end of the tube... in some tight radius / tight clearance situations it locates the bead too far back. It also can't do any smaller than 1.25" tubing and is only rated up to .059" mild steel or 0.043" stainless. No such diameter or thickness problems on the Beadform that Jody posted, it locates the bead very close to the end of the tubing and will handle up to 0.065" wall stainless.

I recently bought the K2 bead roller from Furick. It also locates the bead close to the end of the tube like the Beadform, and it's a really stout piece. It lacks some of the "nice to have" things of the Beadforms like the roller handle and large T handle on the tension knob, but it's $200 cheaper and has the strength where it counts in the frame, shafts, bushings, and gearing. The latest Beadform 3 HD is probably the best unit out there though-- but it's also $200 more expensive. If I was using it every day on stainless I would have bought the Beadform 3 HD along with the motor kit, but I only need to roll beads on tubing a couple of times a year when doing radiator, intake, or intercooler piping.

https://furickcup.com/product/k2-bead-roller/

[camcojb]

Fitted the firewall smoothing plate from ABC Performance, fit great. Mounted up the Restomod Air a/c unit inside the car, and the bulkhead on the firewall. Special thanks to Rick at Vintage Air for building me a custom compressor line manifold to clear the turbo and wastegate.

My Inland Empire driveshaft showed up, and I was able to find an SS dash through National Parts Depot that actually uses chrome around the bezels and lettering instead of silver paint. Looks a lot better than other reproduction dashes. Started fitting the Dakota Digital gauges to the new dash.

[syborg tt]

Wow are you cranking in this car.

I agree with the other guys. Don’t paint it and don’t fix the dents. Just leave it as is. People will be blown away when you open the hood.

The reason we did the satin paint on the Css as Camaro is that I had no desire to ever have perfect paint again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[camcojb]

Wow are you cranking in this car.

I agree with the other guys. Don’t paint it and don’t fix the dents. Just leave it as is. People will be blown away when you open the hood.

The reason we did the satin paint on the Css as Camaro is that I had no desire to ever have perfect paint again.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I actually looked into paintless dent repair just to get the bulk of the big dents out, but none of the companies out here will touch it... :lol:

I'm still missing some key components to allow the car to be fired/driven like fuel tank, clutch, hydroboost, intercooler, but there's still plenty I can do. Plan now is to continue on like it is painted and run it as-is until I can get it in for paint. I will pull the body back off to have the chassis powdercoated first, but then things will be assembled and torqued to be driven vs just mocking up like now.

You know, if you think about it, the name of the car is Collateral DAMAGE... makes the case for leaving it as-is. Maybe I can start a new trend, like the popularity of patina but take it a step further. Have the car look like a complete beater on the outside but totally trick underneath. :idea:

[214Chevy]

You know, if you think about it, the name of the car is Collateral DAMAGE... makes the case for leaving it as-is. Maybe I can start a new trend, like the popularity of patina but take it a step further. Have the car look like a complete beater on the outside but totally trick underneath. :idea:

Like that Polara that RS did for Jesse James. That was one cool car.

[syborg tt]

Don’t forget the Valiant Greening Auto built. Them there was the twin belt driven turbo/super charged Nova that was built by the guys from Wheel to Wheel in the late 90’s early 2000.

I say leave it and drive the crap out of it. Another benefit is less chance it will get stolen.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[camcojb]

Mounted the Clayton Machine pedals today. Everything fit great, no issues. Love the look. Also mounted up the American Powertrain clutch master and adjustable bracket. It comes with full adjustment for the master cylinder angle so you can get the rod geometry perfect and eliminate side loading and possible failure of the master. On the 70 Chevelle the bracket lined up with the factory hole for the manual clutch rod to go through. I decided I wanted more support at the firewall because of the hole, so I bought a Speedtech clutch master bracket, and then mounted the American Powertrain adjustable bracket to that, instead of mounting to the firewall/hole directly. I did remove a very small area on one side of the factory firewall hole to give a bit more rod clearance. Turned out great, rod goes straight into the master, no angles or issues. I do need to build a clutch pedal stop in the future to avoid overextending the piston in the master, they only want 1.12" of movement at the master cylinder.

[96z28ss]

get one of those big suction cup deals an pull the dent out of the back as best you can. The other dings and dent call one of those paintless dent guys, if he is good he will get most of the other dents out.

[clill]

He's actually working on it...I'm kinda impressed. The dent in the door will probably pop out with a truck inner tube inside the door.

[camcojb]

He's actually working on it...I'm kinda impressed. The dent in the door will probably pop out with a truck inner tube inside the door.

You're right, I bet it would. That's a good idea!

[camcojb]

get one of those big suction cup deals an pull the dent out of the back as best you can. The other dings and dent call one of those paintless dent guys, if he is good he will get most of the other dents out.

I've called four different dentless repair guys, none will touch it. Jim will handle it at some point, no hurry.

[214Chevy]

I've called four different dentless repair guys, none will touch it. Jim will handle it at some point, no hurry.

Probably don't want to touch it Jody because of the real steel from back in the day. Those little suction puller thingy's most likely only work on the new car thing gauge metal. Not true, pure American steel from the yester-years. Just my guess.

[camcojb]

Probably don't want to touch it Jody because of the real steel from back in the day. Those little suction puller thingy's most likely only work on the new car thing gauge metal. Not true, pure American steel from the yester-years. Just my guess.

Exactly. The metal is much stiffer than modern cars, you can't just push from the back side and pop these out, ask me how I know... :lol:

[blowngasr]

He's actually working on it...I'm kinda impressed. The dent in the door will probably pop out with a truck inner tube inside the door.

I was thinkin gorilla tape all the openings but the lock hole....little lighter fluid...a match..poooof, taaa..daaaa!!! 😂😂😂..

[camcojb]

I was thinkin gorilla tape all the openings but the lock hole....little lighter fluid...a match..poooof, taaa..daaaa!!! 😂😂😂..

Hilarious... :lol:

[camcojb]

Got my bulkhead connectors from Maven Performance. Bought two, one will handle all the EFI/engine wiring.

[Che70velle]

Great progress sir, keep at it. I like the idea of leaving the body “imperfect”. That big dent in the right 1/4 will come out with the right paintless dent guy. I have one out here that could get it out, I guarantee it. I’ve seen him fix way, way worse. Keep looking, someone will tackle it. Just let them know it’s not a show car, just a driver. ‘Close, but not quite” type of repair.

[zz430droptop67rs]

Great progress sir, keep at it. I like the idea of leaving the body “imperfect”. That big dent in the right 1/4 will come out with the right paintless dent guy. I have one out here that could get it out, I guarantee it. I’ve seen him fix way, way worse. Keep looking, someone will tackle it. Just let them know it’s not a show car, just a driver. ‘Close, but not quite” type of repair.

Totally agree with this. We used a paintless dent guy for some work on a 67 Chevelle and the results were awesome. It was very surprising to see the dents just disappear.

[Vegas69]

I'm gonna go against the grain here. I'm of the philosophy that you do it once and do it right. I'd struggle to blow apart a car that I enjoy driving.

[Dave95z28]

I love the look and simplicity of the GP Headers Single Turbo Kit. Just looking at it, do you think it would fit in a First Gen Camaro? I contacted them, but they were uncertain.

David

[camcojb]

I love the look and simplicity of the GP Headers Single Turbo Kit. Just looking at it, do you think it would fit in a First Gen Camaro? I contacted them, but they were uncertain.

David

I would think so, with the only caveat being engine placement. If your engine is back in the rearward position should work IMO, gets tight to the radiator/fans when the engine is in the forward position. All I would have had them do is shorten up the T4 flange connector about an inch for inner fenderwell clearance (red circle in pic below).

The great thing about them besides the quality is they do custom stuff as a normal business. So changes are easy, they'll do whatever you want. With me, he sent me the normal kit with the headers tight to the engine and then told me to cut/clock/whatever changes needed and send it back for them to re-weld. Also, ordered mine in the middle of covid and he told me two weeks... it was exactly two weeks when he contacted me to tell me it was shipping.

You'll need a mid mount front drive for my setup, but he can build it for whatever drive you use, he's done most of the popular ones in house at one time or another. The pic below shows the section I straight cut about 3/4" out of for additional fenderwell clearance.

[Dave95z28]

I would think so, with the only caveat being engine placement. If your engine is back in the rearward position should work IMO, gets tight to the radiator/fans when the engine is in the forward position. All I would have had them do is shorten up the T4 flange connector about an inch for inner fenderwell clearance (red circle in pic below).

The great thing about them besides the quality is they do custom stuff as a normal business. So changes are easy, they'll do whatever you want. With me, he sent me the normal kit with the headers tight to the engine and then told me to cut/clock/whatever changes needed and send it back for them to re-weld. Also, ordered mine in the middle of covid and he told me two weeks... it was exactly two weeks when he contacted me to tell me it was shipping.

You'll need a mid mount front drive for my setup, but he can build it for whatever drive you use, he's done most of the popular ones in house at one time or another. The pic below shows the section I straight cut about 3/4" out of for additional fenderwell clearance.

Thanks, I will probably give them a call after selling my LSA Supercharger and accessory drive system.

David

[camcojb]

Got my hydroboost from Hydratech today, looks awesome! Fits perfect with my clutch master bracket. Installed the Baer Remaster unit and lines, along with their proportioning valve. Added my Mightmouse Solutions catch can and ran the vent hose. Little progress, but better than none at all. :thumbsup:

[camcojb]

After looking at it I'm probably going to swap the valve covers side to side so the vent hose is short and not so obtrusive. Will make it harder to add oil, but not impossible.

EDIT: Decided to change it, looks MUCH cleaner IMO. Brings up a good point... don't be afraid to look at your project and come up with changes that would be cleaner, easier to access, etc. Often like in this case it costs nothing but time.

[ScotI]

After looking at it I'm probably going to swap the valve covers side to side so the vent hose is short and not so obtrusive. Will make it harder to add oil, but not impossible.

EDIT: Decided to change it, looks MUCH cleaner IMO. Brings up a good point... don't be afraid to look at your project and come up with changes that would be cleaner, easier to access, etc. Often like in this case it costs nothing but time.

It def cleans it up.
Get another PASS side cover? That would make adding oil easier.

[Musclerodz]

It def cleans it up.
Get another PASS side cover? That would make adding oil easier.

ditto

[214Chevy]

Good call on moving the breather hose Jody. Looks nice!!

[Hydratech®]

Looking good, though a thought came to mind when you swapped your valve cover to accommodate the catch can / breather on the driver's side. What do you have planned for the passenger side of the firewall? I see a lot of smooth wide open real estate there. I do realize you have a down pipe from the turbo that will be running through that side. My thoughts are that from what I am seeing right now (in my possibly limited perspective of your full vision) is a bit of clutter gathering on the driver's side now, with the brake assist unit and master cylinder and catch can all grouped together. Once you also add a wiper motor assembly into that area, it's going to get even more occupied. Might the passenger side of the firewall be a better place to hang the catch can / breather, which will add some symmetry to the engine compartment appearance, then also saving you from having to obtain another valve cover? I believe it would be also easier to drain on the passenger side of the firewall when needed. I always think, rethink, and think again when setting up engine compartments, and like you said, spending some time moving things around to see what and how things may fit best is part of the engineering process.

You are the artiste` and the vehicle is your canvas!

One more further thought if I may? Depending upon how tight your engine mounts will control drivetrain movement, I do also suggest you remove an inch +/- of your solid SS upper radiator hose pipe on each end to allow more rubber hose to take up the flex of chassis / body / engine frame movement. I have made the mistake of running this scenario too tight, not allowing for enough flex and movement, resulting in a stress cracked upper radiator hose inlet. As you know, those types of things always manifest at the worst times, as per Murphy's Law (Chapter 6, section 3).

:happy23:

[camcojb]

Looking good, though a thought came to mind when you swapped your valve cover to accommodate the catch can / breather on the driver's side. What do you have planned for the passenger side of the firewall? I see a lot of smooth wide open real estate there. I do realize you have a down pipe from the turbo that will be running through that side. My thoughts are that from what I am seeing right now (in my possibly limited perspective of your full vision) is a bit of clutter gathering on the driver's side now, with the brake assist unit and master cylinder and catch can all grouped together. Once you also add a wiper motor assembly into that area, it's going to get even more occupied. Might the passenger side of the firewall be a better place to hang the catch can / breather, which will add some symmetry to the engine compartment appearance, then also saving you from having to obtain another valve cover? I believe it would be also easier to drain on the passenger side of the firewall when needed. I always think, rethink, and think again when setting up engine compartments, and like you said, spending some time moving things around to see what and how things may fit best is part of the engineering process.

You are the artiste` and the vehicle is your canvas!

One more further thought if I may? Depending upon how tight your engine mounts will control drivetrain movement, I do also suggest you remove an inch +/- of your solid SS upper radiator hose pipe on each end to allow more rubber hose to take up the flex of chassis / body / engine frame movement. I have made the mistake of running this scenario too tight, not allowing for enough flex and movement, resulting in a stress cracked upper radiator hose inlet. As you know, those types of things always manifest at the worst times, as per Murphy's Law (Chapter 6, section 3).

:happy23:
Good thoughts Paul, thanks! Can't move the steering and brake system obviously, and there won't be a wiper motor visible (going a hidden system inside the cowl). With a 4" downpipe off the turbo and the wastegate line intersects at some point that will get a bit more crowded. I was trying to avoid adding anything else to that side if possible. It makes sense to put the catch can over there, but I think it will look good the way I have it. Will surely be easy to change though if I change my mind. :thumbsup:

Using urethane engine and body mounts so I think I'll be fine with the flex issues. The rubber radiator hose connections do allow a fair amount of movement.

[214Chevy]

there won't be a wiper motor visible (going a hidden system inside the cowl).

Jody, are you gonna use Raingear for the hidden wiper system?

[camcojb]

Jody, are you gonna use Raingear for the hidden wiper system?

Yes, they finally have one for the 70 Chevelles. :thumbsup:

[214Chevy]

Yes, they finally have one for the 70 Chevelles. :thumbsup:

Good deal!! I have it on my car too and I'm please with the install and the clean, hidden look as well.

[Blown353]

One thing to keep in mind about the raingear wipers... do they offer recessed park?

Most 68-72 Chevelles had recessed park wipers, which hides the wipers under the hood line and down on the stainless cowl trim when they're shut off. When they're running they move up out of the parked position and stay up on the glass until you shut them off, then they drop below the hood line and park on the stainless cowl/windshield trim.

DSE used to offer a recessed park wiper motor option for Chevelles but discontinued it years ago. Haven't seen anything other than a rebuilt original factory motor offer recessed park since then.

If the raingear wipers don't have recessed park, they're going to sit a few inches higher up on the glass even when they're off and won't be hidden below the hoodline compared to a recessed park OE wiper motor.


Something else to consider regarding the catch can and breather setup... with the breather tank now connected at the rear of the valve cover it might want to push a bunch of oil up into the catch can at high RPM / WOT when there will be the most oil in the valve covers and it's going to be pushed to the rear under acceleration, and any blowby is going to try and push it up the hose into the catch can. Gravity is on your side as the hose runs uphill from the valve cover to the catch can, but make sure the hole in the valve cover is baffled very well or you might have a real mess on your hands after a few WOT pulls. Been there, done that, have the bottle of simple green and a hose to clean it up...

[camcojb]

One thing to keep in mind about the raingear wipers... do they offer recessed park?

Most 68-72 Chevelles had recessed park wipers, which hides the wipers under the hood line and down on the stainless cowl trim when they're shut off. When they're running they move up out of the parked position and stay up on the glass until you shut them off, then they drop below the hood line and park on the stainless cowl/windshield trim.

DSE used to offer a recessed park wiper motor option for Chevelles but discontinued it years ago. Haven't seen anything other than a rebuilt original factory motor offer recessed park since then.

If the raingear wipers don't have recessed park, they're going to sit a few inches higher up on the glass even when they're off and won't be hidden below the hoodline compared to a recessed park OE wiper motor.


Something else to consider regarding the catch can and breather setup... with the breather tank now connected at the rear of the valve cover it might want to push a bunch of oil up into the catch can at high RPM / WOT when there will be the most oil in the valve covers and it's going to be pushed to the rear under acceleration, and any blowby is going to try and push it up the hose into the catch can. Gravity is on your side as the hose runs uphill from the valve cover to the catch can, but make sure the hole in the valve cover is baffled very well or you might have a real mess on your hands after a few WOT pulls. Been there, done that, have the bottle of simple green and a hose to clean it up...

Good point on the wipers, sent an email to them and they do not have recessed park. Will have to decide how big a deal for me that is. Have had wiper arms that show on almost all the cars I've had over the years and it never bothered me, but when looking at 70 Chevelles nearly all have the hidden wipers.

Now you've also got me looking at baffled vacuum pump valve cover fittings. Seems like if it was at the front of the valve cover and if it can go in a lower oil flow area it'd be much better.

[Blown353]

When it comes to 68-72 Chevelle wipers typically only the stripper model / post / 300 deluxe cars had the non-recessed park wipers that parked up on the windshield when off, nearly everything else had the hideaway / recessed park wipers. I think I've seen less than 10 68-72 Chevelles in person with non-recessed wipers over the last 25 years or so.

The recessed park wipers also used a different driver's side wiper arm with double links and the transmission linkage inside the cowl is a bit different than a non-recessed park wiper car.

IMO a 68-72 Chevelle looks a bit goofy with non-recessed park wipers since they stick out above the hood line sitting up on the glass even when they're off. As far as I know there's no longer any updated / late model style aftermarket motor kits for Chevelles out there offering recessed park. That means you're stuck with using one of the large and rather ugly original or reproduction original style wiper motors if you want recessed park. DSE stopped offering their recessed park late model style motor for Chevelles many years ago (I heard it was for reliability reasons-- lots of failures, and now they can't even service or repair the recessed park kits they sold years ago so if you have one and it dies you're SOL.)

If you want to keep recessed park, you may be able to relocate a stock recessed park wiper motor over to the far left side of the cowl under the driver's side fender and build some extended linkage for it, but I'm not 100% sure it will work... never tried it myself.

If you keep the OEM recessed park motor but want intermittent / delay, if you search over on chevelles.com there's info how to make an adjustable delay circuit and switch that works with the OEM recessed park motor and doesn't try to park the wipers every time it does an intermittent pause... better than the off/low/high which is all you have to choose from with the factory switch.

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/adding-delay-to-recessed-wipers-part-1.526153/

As far as the valve cover breather, what I've done on another car for cleanliness was locate the bungs and hose connection at the rear of the valve covers to be closer to the catch can but welded internal baffles/tubes that extended to the center of the valve covers, that way they're picking up crankcase vapors from the center of the valve cover and not likely to get covered by oil under either hard braking or hard acceleration. However, that was on an SBC with shaft rockers and tall valve covers that had enough clearance for the long baffle. LS valve covers sit very low and close to the rockers and there probably wouldn't be enough room to do that. If you have a vertical baffle out of the fill cap with enough height to it, it will probably work OK and not push oil into the catch can at WOT.

I'd say try what you have now, but check the catch can after a couple of WOT pulls and see if it's pushing excessive oil. You don't want to fill the can up and have it drip down on the exhaust manifolds.

[Vegas69]

Mounting the catch can on the core support seems to solve many issues and it keeps the back of the engine bay cleaner. I personally like the mechanics of the AN fittings and hose to the core support, but it's subjective.

[protour]

When it comes to 68-72 Chevelle wipers typically only the stripper model / post / 300 deluxe cars had the non-recessed park wipers that parked up on the windshield when off, nearly everything else had the hideaway / recessed park wipers. I think I've seen less than 10 68-72 Chevelles in person with non-recessed wipers over the last 25 years or so.

The recessed park wipers also used a different driver's side wiper arm with double links and the transmission linkage inside the cowl is a bit different than a non-recessed park wiper car.

IMO a 68-72 Chevelle looks a bit goofy with non-recessed park wipers since they stick out above the hood line sitting up on the glass even when they're off. As far as I know there's no longer any updated / late model style aftermarket motor kits for Chevelles out there offering recessed park. That means you're stuck with using one of the large and rather ugly original or reproduction original style wiper motors if you want recessed park. DSE stopped offering their recessed park late model style motor for Chevelles many years ago (I heard it was for reliability reasons-- lots of failures, and now they can't even service or repair the recessed park kits they sold years ago so if you have one and it dies you're SOL.)

If you want to keep recessed park, you may be able to relocate a stock recessed park wiper motor over to the far left side of the cowl under the driver's side fender and build some extended linkage for it, but I'm not 100% sure it will work... never tried it myself.

If you keep the OEM recessed park motor but want intermittent / delay, if you search over on chevelles.com there's info how to make an adjustable delay circuit and switch that works with the OEM recessed park motor and doesn't try to park the wipers every time it does an intermittent pause... better than the off/low/high which is all you have to choose from with the factory switch.

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/adding-delay-to-recessed-wipers-part-1.526153/


non recessed wiper gang here. Add Malibu to your list.

I personally think the recessed window stainless looks like an oversized belt to hold a belly in. lol.

Im not sure if wiring is different to convert from non recessed to recessed, I believe the switch is different and the motor is definitely different.

[Blown353]

It's been a while since I've had one apart so I could be wrong, but I believe the dash switch is different but the wiring is the same between the non-recessed park and recessed park setups. The dash switch doesn't do the parking though, that's handled by an internal parking switch and cam inside the wiper motor that parks the wipers when you shut them off. And yes, the motors are totally different between the two setups.

And you're correct, the cars with recessed park wipers have a taller stainless windshield trim piece that sits about even with the hood and fender line. If I was putting an aftermarket non-recessed park wiper motor kit on the car I would switch to the shorter stainless trim piece for the cars that didn't have recessed wipers, otherwise the wipers would probably jump up onto the taller stainless trim piece at the bottom of every stroke.

[camcojb]

Mounting the catch can on the core support seems to solve many issues and it keeps the back of the engine bay cleaner. I personally like the mechanics of the AN fittings and hose to the core support, but it's subjective.

Great idea Todd. I got so enamored with the simple clean MightyMouse brake master bracket I ignored moving it forward. I know there won't be any room on the drivers side with my A2W intercooler.

[camcojb]

non recessed wiper gang here. Add Malibu to your list.

I personally think the recessed window stainless looks like an oversized belt to hold a belly in. lol.

Im not sure if wiring is different to convert from non recessed to recessed, I believe the switch is different and the motor is definitely different.

Can you post a pic for me? I haven't been able to find a good pic of the wiper arms down and the hood closed. :thankyou:

[ScotI]

When it comes to 68-72 Chevelle wipers typically only the stripper model / post / 300 deluxe cars had the non-recessed park wipers that parked up on the windshield when off, nearly everything else had the hideaway / recessed park wipers. I think I've seen less than 10 68-72 Chevelles in person with non-recessed wipers over the last 25 years or so.

The recessed park wipers also used a different driver's side wiper arm with double links and the transmission linkage inside the cowl is a bit different than a non-recessed park wiper car.

IMO a 68-72 Chevelle looks a bit goofy with non-recessed park wipers since they stick out above the hood line sitting up on the glass even when they're off. As far as I know there's no longer any updated / late model style aftermarket motor kits for Chevelles out there offering recessed park. That means you're stuck with using one of the large and rather ugly original or reproduction original style wiper motors if you want recessed park. DSE stopped offering their recessed park late model style motor for Chevelles many years ago (I heard it was for reliability reasons-- lots of failures, and now they can't even service or repair the recessed park kits they sold years ago so if you have one and it dies you're SOL.)

If you want to keep recessed park, you may be able to relocate a stock recessed park wiper motor over to the far left side of the cowl under the driver's side fender and build some extended linkage for it, but I'm not 100% sure it will work... never tried it myself.

If you keep the OEM recessed park motor but want intermittent / delay, if you search over on chevelles.com there's info how to make an adjustable delay circuit and switch that works with the OEM recessed park motor and doesn't try to park the wipers every time it does an intermittent pause... better than the off/low/high which is all you have to choose from with the factory switch.

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/adding-delay-to-recessed-wipers-part-1.526153/


I was always curious about this. The G-body Malibu's also have the recessed park feature (well.... the one I have & others I've owned did). It's one of those things I look for @ car gatherings now just to see how many might have had it.

[Blown353]

Can you post a pic for me? I haven't been able to find a good pic of the wiper arms down and the hood closed. :thankyou:

Jody, it’s somewhat difficult to find any pics of non-recessed wipers on a 70-72... Best thing to do is do a google image search for “1970 chevelle greenbrier” (the stripper model) and some of the pics that show up will show the nose and hoodline with the non-recessed wipers. Most are flat hood cars though, not cowl hood.


Here's a pic on the car:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75529&stc=1&d=1625609010

Here’s a pic of non-recessed wipers on a 70 showing how high they sit when parked:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75530&stc=1&d=1625609010

And here’s a pic of recessed wipers on a 70. Note how much lower they sit:

https://lateral-g.net/forums/attachment.php?attachmentid=75531&stc=1&d=1625609010

[camcojb]

Fit the Ididit column in today, fit perfect and the powdercoating is very nice. Could not be happier. And to make Todd happy I swapped the valve covers back to normal and mounted the catch can to the passenger side of the radiator support. Looks okay, liked it on the other side better visually but this should function better.

[camcojb]

Jody, it’s somewhat difficult to find any pics of non-recessed wipers on a 70-72... Best thing to do is do a google image search for “1970 chevelle greenbrier” (the stripper model) and some of the pics that show up will show the nose and hoodline with the non-recessed wipers. Most are flat hood cars though, not cowl hood.



Thanks Troy. :thumbsup:

[Vegas69]

There's only one opinion that matters. :) The breather will mist some moisture and I can see that being a cosmetic problem near the master cylinder over time. You could put a line and petcock out the bottom of the breather and have the ability to drain the water into a pan from time to time. This is a time where I pick function over form. I love for things to work as desired under max effort. :)

[214Chevy]

Everything just looks so good Jody.

[protour]

Can you post a pic for me? I haven't been able to find a good pic of the wiper arms down and the hood closed. :thankyou:

Hey Jody,

Here ya go sir!

-Matthew

[214Chevy]

Jody, mine had the hidden wipers too. Never knew anything different until just now this thread. Had to go find an old pic.

https://i.postimg.cc/76gnfwyL/72chevelle14.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

[camcojb]

Hey Jody,

Here ya go sir!

-Matthew

Jody, mine had the hidden wipers too. Never knew anything different until just now this thread. Had to go find an old pic.

Thanks guys. Easiest thing to do is keep what I have (concealed), but I like the idea of cleaning up the firewall with either an aftermarket motor (smaller) or hidden unit.

[214Chevy]

Thanks guys. Easiest thing to do is keep what I have (concealed), but I like the idea of cleaning up the firewall with either an aftermarket motor (smaller) or hidden unit.

I vote hidden unit Jody. It looks so clean with it hidden and out of sight.

[camcojb]

I vote hidden unit Jody. It looks so clean with it hidden and out of sight.
Hidden wiper motor means visible wiper arms and blades.

[raustinss]

their website still only shows the wiper kit for older chevelles ...whats one of these kits worth ? with delay or just high and low speeds ?

[camcojb]

So maybe install the hidden wiper unit from Raingear and keep the wiper arms/blades in the trunk if needed... :peepwall: Best of both worlds.

[Hydratech®]

Just to poke at you a little, your rendering does not show exposed wipers :bitchslap:

Form follows function in my book - seeing a wiper motor under hood certainly isn't out of place. I'm following your build, certainly not leading it. Yeah, a nice clean close out panel where the wiper motor used to live would look trick when you are standing around with guys admiring your engine compartment, and I get the whole cool concept of the RainGear hidden wiper system, but too bad they don't have the hide away park function (yet).

It has been many years since I have had my hands on an A body, though I remember removing the panel at the base of the windshield on a few to clean out a bunch of leaves and gook accumulated in there, recalling there was a rather large amount of glass covered by this plate (it was always dirty as hell so I remember cleaning this area of the glass before putting the plate back on). Just spit balling here, but what if you could talk to RainGear about possibly increasing the swept area in motion, which would allow you to retain a full wipe of the windshield but have the wipers drop down to that lower area of the windshield that is usually covered by that large base plate while in motion. That way when you shut them off, they will sit down out of view as if they were the "upscale parking hide away type" when off, or at least a lot lower. This would require a modification of the wiper linkage geometry to increase the overall swept area, or splitting the difference of how far upward they will wipe. This would also likely lead to a custom shortened windshield base plate, or even it's complete omission. Today's modern urethane used when installing windshields is so strong that you can omit the little windshield base tabs once the urethane has set 24 hours - that windshield isn't going anywhere once it is placed. Again, just thinking out loud as to alternate ways to possibly have your cake and eat it too. I haven't taken a close look at the RainGear arrangement, though believe there must be an arm on an electric motor running the linkages. If this arm on the electric motor was lengthened by a small amount, it should increase the wiper swept area. The engineer in me just can't stay contained - I always have to rethink most everything I touch to improve it one way or another. Great for some things, but not good when the wife is saying "what in the world is taking so long" :lol:

Or? RainX the windshield consistently and think less about wiper actions / travel. It's inevitable that you will eventually get caught out in a rain storm as this is a real car that will be really driven.

Things that make you go hmmm....

[dhutton]

I have seen guys relocate the stock motor under the fender with a modified/lengthened arm on F bodies. Maybe it’s possible on A bodies too. I don’t know enough about the recessed wipers to say yes or no.

Don

[Vegas69]

What if you simply installed the wipers in a lower position while parked. It would limit the travel some, but how often do you really plan to drive in the rain? I'm not sure it's a viable option, but I thought I'd throw it out there.

[camcojb]

their website still only shows the wiper kit for older chevelles ...whats one of these kits worth ? with delay or just high and low speeds ?

Got this today for pricing.

Several variable for exact pricing. But, the system ranges from 800 - 900 hundred dollars.

So I can't justify the cost simply to not have the wiper motor visible. I'll either go with a new stock unit or a cleaner version from New Port Engineering and have visible wiper arms, or spend 2 minutes and install the arms when needed.

https://newportwipers.com/wp-content/uploads/2017/08/Chevelle-Chevy-Wiper-Motor-1968-1969-1970-1971-1972-NewPort-Engineering-NE6872CVBack-e1504122071738.jpg

[camcojb]

What if you simply installed the wipers in a lower position while parked. It would limit the travel some, but how often do you really plan to drive in the rain? I'm not sure it's a viable option, but I thought I'd throw it out there.

Thought of that but not sure how well the blades will like sliding on/off the stainless trim when operating. If I end up with something other than stock I will be testing this.

[camcojb]

Just to poke at you a little, your rendering does not show exposed wipers :bitchslap:

Form follows function in my book - seeing a wiper motor under hood certainly isn't out of place. I'm following your build, certainly not leading it. Yeah, a nice clean close out panel where the wiper motor used to live would look trick when you are standing around with guys admiring your engine compartment, and I get the whole cool concept of the RainGear hidden wiper system, but too bad they don't have the hide away park function (yet).

It has been many years since I have had my hands on an A body, though I remember removing the panel at the base of the windshield on a few to clean out a bunch of leaves and gook accumulated in there, recalling there was a rather large amount of glass covered by this plate (it was always dirty as hell so I remember cleaning this area of the glass before putting the plate back on). Just spit balling here, but what if you could talk to RainGear about possibly increasing the swept area in motion, which would allow you to retain a full wipe of the windshield but have the wipers drop down to that lower area of the windshield that is usually covered by that large base plate while in motion. That way when you shut them off, they will sit down out of view as if they were the "upscale parking hide away type" when off, or at least a lot lower. This would require a modification of the wiper linkage geometry to increase the overall swept area, or splitting the difference of how far upward they will wipe. This would also likely lead to a custom shortened windshield base plate, or even it's complete omission. Today's modern urethane used when installing windshields is so strong that you can omit the little windshield base tabs once the urethane has set 24 hours - that windshield isn't going anywhere once it is placed. Again, just thinking out loud as to alternate ways to possibly have your cake and eat it too. I haven't taken a close look at the RainGear arrangement, though believe there must be an arm on an electric motor running the linkages. If this arm on the electric motor was lengthened by a small amount, it should increase the wiper swept area. The engineer in me just can't stay contained - I always have to rethink most everything I touch to improve it one way or another. Great for some things, but not good when the wife is saying "what in the world is taking so long" :lol:

Or? RainX the windshield consistently and think less about wiper actions / travel. It's inevitable that you will eventually get caught out in a rain storm as this is a real car that will be really driven.

Things that make you go hmmm....

Thanks Paul, looking at all options now other than Raingear (due to budget).

[dhutton]

Some details of moving it under the fender here:

https://www.chevelles.com/threads/67-l99-4l80-project.371897/page-4

Don

[waynieZ]

I had the same idea as Don, it works great for F body. If you have room.

[Che70velle]

Jody, I’ve been following the build almost daily, and after seeing the wiper delima, I had to run out to the shop tonight and take some pics of mine. These are non-hidden wipers, and hide pretty good with a standard 2” cowl. If your going the flat hood route, it might be a little different, but honestly it isn’t like the wipers rest half-way up the glass. My parts car had the hidden wiper setup on it, and honestly I like the standard setup better. Just looks more 70’s to me I guess.

[camcojb]

Jody, I’ve been following the build almost daily, and after seeing the wiper delima, I had to run out to the shop tonight and take some pics of mine. These are non-hidden wipers, and hide pretty good with a standard 2” cowl. If your going the flat hood route, it might be a little different, but honestly it isn’t like the wipers rest half-way up the glass. My parts car had the hidden wiper setup on it, and honestly I like the standard setup better. Just looks more 70’s to me I guess.

I agree, looks great Scott. :thumbsup:

[WSSix]

I think you'll be fine just leaving the wipers off until they're actually needed if you go that route. I'm sure you can find some sort of cap to cover the drive studs if necessary to make it cleaner when the arms are removed.

[Blown353]

I agree the non-recessed wipers hide much better on a 70-72 with a cowl hood as the hood and fenderline is taller than a 68-69. On a 68-69, non-recessed wipers stick way up there above the hoodline.

I'm also for the idea of putting on whatever wiper motors you want, but wrapping up the arms and blades and keeping them in the trunk until you need them.

Depending on what your car has now though you may need new wiper arms and linkage, the arms and linkage are different between recessed park and non-recessed park. Recessed park wipers will have a smaller secondary link on the driver's side wiper arm, non-recessed park wipers are single arms on both the driver and passenger side wipers. The linkage inside the cowl is a bit different too.

[clill]

Been over a month since last update !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

[camcojb]

Been over a month since last update !!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

And it's been over a month since I've received a part... :lol: The intercooler is finally done and shipped. Plan is to fit that and mock up the lines and then pull the body off for Jim to knock the dents out (no paint). In the meantime I'll strip the chassis and get it powdercoated, re-assemble everything for a final time, get the metal lines welded and coated, and wait for the body to come back.

The plan is to put the car together sealed and primed and tear down later for paint. I'm still missing some key items though; waited a year on a Centerforce DYAD and gave up. Fortunately McLeod is bailing me out with one of their RXT twin disc clutch setups (https://www.mcleodracing.com/rxt/p38). Still waiting for the fuel tank (6 months) after waiting several months from a different supplier. There are several other things that are still months out at best. This is NOT the time to try to build a car, getting parts is very tough.

[camcojb]

and it fits... :cheers:

[waynieZ]

and it fits... :cheers:

Pretty :)

[214Chevy]

and it fits... :cheers:

Niiiiiccee!!