Project "Darla" 1974 Chevrolet Nova SS

[Kmelander]

Official start of my build project here on Lateral G. Started in 2011. Lots of interruptions and side projects but have stayed on it relatively consistent. Won't kill this thread with overly detailed posts but will try to keep the progress up to date.

$1,800 out of Oakboro, NC - on our way home. No engine, 4-speed car with driveline. Some of the tear-down pictures included.

[Kmelander]

Cut a bunch of rusty metal out so I could get to more rusty metal. Removed the rear diff/axles. Sectioned the frame rails and moved them inward. Fabricated a cross-member and 4-link suspension.

[Kmelander]

DSE Sub-frame connectors. Fabricated bolt on connection to front sub-frame.

[214Chevy]

Looking good. I'm tuned in...

[Kmelander]

Inner (DSE) and outer wheel houses + trunk extensions so I could get the quarter skins mocked-up to figure out my axle/housing length. Then I bought 80' of 1.75" x 0.120" DOM tube, nice bender and cheap notcher. Started making bars.

[Kmelander]

FYI...I’ll be posting many historical photos. I started this project in 2011. Currently the car is on a rotisserie in my garage. I’ve been replacing rusty floor pans etc. Next project, I think, is sheet metal fab for rear seat area. That and/or getting the fuel cell roughed-in. I’ll try to get this thread current this week.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dug]

Nice work so far. I really like the tubing in the trunk area, it looks good and I've never seen something like it. What was the idea behind adding it?

[Kmelander]

Nice work so far. I really like the tubing in the trunk area, it looks good and I've never seen something like it. What was the idea behind adding it?



Thanks. It’s structural. I moved the factory frame rails inward and felt like I needed to reinforce/tie them to the rest of the cage/chassis structure. I’ve essentially adopted the practice of “ladder” bracing the entire factory chassis. Maybe overkill but I guess I’d rather over build it than under build it. You may find the mid-frame upper crossmember interesting as well. Haven’t posted that part of the build yet but I’ll throw one in this post so you can see it. I have a lot of work in the cage for this car.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200513/c0c7a92eb0c1d1ba6b3c30ca2d7907bc.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[dug]

Got it. Yeah seeing that photo makes it all come together now. Nice work!

[77LT]

I have had 2 1974 Nova Customs one being a hatchback. The hatchback was optioned like an SS with buckets and mini console, but had very little else original (i.e. motor/trans) always wondered if it was an SS.

Do you plan to tuck bumpers tighter to body?

Todd

[Kmelander]

It is an SS. My understanding is that means little for the 74 other than a dealer applied sticker package. Bumpers definitely going to be massaged. They are ugly as hell in factory form.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Once I had the wheel wells situated so I could mock up the tire/wheel package, I started working on the rear suspension. I had to add shocks, panhard bar and the anti-sway bar.

I bought some lower shock brackets from a local swap meet. Bought the upper shock brackets, panhard link brackets and anti-sway bushings from Speedway.

I made an upper shock crossmember with a drop leg for the panhard. I had to revise my original design though because the panhard bar was going to hit the shock body. This forced me to extend the panhard axle bracket about 3" additional from the axle housing. Next I had to extend my upper shock brackets because the panhard bracket mod forced me to move the crossmember to keep things lined up. This wound up being a blessing because it created a perfect place for my antisway bushings to be mounted. I have to completely fabricate my antisway bar assembly out of 1/4" plate and 1" Chromoly steel bar. I am a bit apprehensive on the antisway assembly though. I don't like how long the 1/4" arms are. I also planned to heat-treat the assembly to case harden the bar so it will have some spring but I can't remember what variant of chromoly it is. The guy that welded the housing ends on my rear axle thought it was unnecessary to treat a 1" bar. He even laughed when he said it.

Not sure how that will all play out but at least the parts are there and all fit and work together for now.

[Kmelander]

2018 was the year of building tools. I built a rotisserie and a sand blaster. This post will focus on the rotisserie. I'm too cheap to buy one so I made one. In the end I think I had about half the cost of a quality new unit. I think it cost me about $800 (and 2 months of weekends) to build. I used the plans primarily but did make some changes.

1. The main lift posts were supposed to have hydraulic rams. I opted to use a 3/4" threaded rod with thrust bearings. It's the same concept as the balancing risers and it works well.

2. the plans called for bolts through welded nuts for the pivot pin/bushings to lock the rotary position. I was skeptical about it from the beginning and went a different route. I had some old brake rotors and some old 11" steel discs that I used to create a friction lock on each end. I use either vise grips or c-clamp to lock them together.

3. I welded tabs to accept rollers to the main risers. I did this to ease the load on the 3/4" threaded rods I was using for jack screws.

4. The one mistake I made was using the red, 250 lb casters. They were straining badly under the load and I later changed them out for heavier 600 lb ones.

The thing has been a back saver ever since.

[Kmelander]

After the rotisserie, I decided to pull the engine from the donor vehicle. It was a 3/4 ton 2014 Chevrolet Express Van with a 6 litre LQ4 iron block and a 4L80E transmission. Had about 225k miles I think. Ran and drove great. I got a lot of flack from my co-workers for tearing it apart, especially my buddy who drove it home to me! I had already been down this road years earlier. I bought an earlier model service van with the same package, from the same company, with the same intentions. With that one, I decided it was better to simply fix any problems it had and sell it to make some extra cash...for the car. Regretted doing that. Was not going to make the same mistake with this one, although it was tempting.

[Kmelander]

Been doing rust repairs for the last few months. Also did a major rebuild on the front subframe prior to that, after blasting it and finding some rust-through on the main crossmember. I’ll save that for another post.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/61dedd35e7a0913219d0f52faf18f097.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/c335ef747d8cb7606303c03bee7328f4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/caee8feae60a45da7dcd1cdbb6bf6027.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/e8ee329f352a9ec28ec7288bd2242e33.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/8859cb15e2141d8ee8c0a1b934a10895.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/a3aca406af77212e0dae52573c098097.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/386936fd50b22ae1af396c715bf96f94.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/9e972ef7fb8c2ea0f5f6f78fb8a207fe.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/0343d11048a360f7f0f3d8f2c497f3db.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/87bf73f1446a4b31fbd7ba5fe0d41041.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/f38a5da6a935f2788827b2d5c846e500.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200531/dc81fe70d6dd1ee3b2d082c1dc2df0c8.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Zspoiler]

I had a 1973 Nova SS 4 speed Hatchback as my first car .And wish I still had it at times. Its nice to see a 1974 built so well .Continue on your build .And good luck to you.

[Kmelander]

I had a 1973 Nova SS 4 speed Hatchback as my first car .And wish I still had it at times. Its nice to see a 1974 built so well .Continue on your build .And good luck to you.


Thanks buddy. She’s a bit of a Frankenstein, or perhaps I am. I’ve cut-up and rebuilt so much of it, with still a good bit more to go.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Zspoiler]

Sometimes we all wonder if it will ever end .But when it does .You will have your dream car.And be able to take it out and enjoy it.:whenitsdone

[Kmelander]

Made a couple of panels for the back-seat firewall.

[Kmelander]

Repaired a section of rust-through on the passenger cowl.

[Zspoiler]

Isnt rust wonderful ? One of the "fun"things about Fisher bodies .But its nice that to be taken care of. Very nice work though. Good luck to you.

[Kmelander]

Beaded the cowl filler and worked up the courage to bead the rear firewall pieces.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200608/7e68b78cc4f83dd701e6b6475582cf2a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200608/e645fdbb1a230e2f049772516aec3d5a.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

3 month update:

Tackled the front wiper cowl area. Painted, seam sealed, second skin. Welded it back together.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/c8c05244cedde93dbe7466d529010184.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/453b89320625e0dac630a2cd4f364df2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/2fb5a2ae2818bbfb96c9e4c618b0cf85.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/8324f32e16f6b4a11aaa6db9f03e6897.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/094c33b811df287120e408e9808c0fd2.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Fuel cell support cage and mocking into car. All pictures are “top mount” mock up. Going to try bottom mount to see how that looks. It will drop by 5”. Im speculating that will be better for handling but puts it down in the weeds and makes exhaust routing more challenging.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/18b76e12d73d89e23b00451e456247e2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/f25ace2bf70c9ce04ee417fd76826238.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/76fe3c87bd89791564fb0d55abe7a9ae.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/07f8a9a1b00e2681cb6a54844dcf82b5.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/44ade100a77a90ee9e51e0cb3737478f.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ScotI]

That tank placement looks good visually. Not too high or engulfing majority of the trunk space & not hanging too low.

[Kmelander]

Yeah, I went with that height. Tacked it in and started making the mounts today.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/aba7630c2fdf12300d141fda85985349.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/0d96d76866244e72f3781ad881539a9d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200913/ac6f768f0d81fa26376a28b45f012237.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Got the mounts on it, took it out of the car and welded it up.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200916/cba9cec5f071f56b780f231c4c90c3e7.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ZMAN1969]

Don't see many post 72 Novas getting this kind of love! - I like to see someone else using the GM 8.5" rear ends - I like them, They are the Rodney Dangerfield of rear ends

[F'in mine]

Don't see many post 72 Novas getting this kind of love! - I like to see someone else using the GM 8.5" rear ends - I like them, They are the Rodney Dangerfield of rear ends

Zman, this ones for you. I'm building a 8.5" that I picked up for 150.00 with the posi from a 71 Camaro. Had it shortened properly, gonna add a bunch of upgrades, 1350 pinion yoke, strange axles and Moser 7900FM ends with LS1 rear brakes.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Chevy-GM-8-5-10-Bolt-1350-Forged-Steel-Pinion-Yoke-Rearend-30-Spline-NEW/391768561040?ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AIT&_trksid=p2060353.m1438.l2649
It's part of my reverse LS build, accumulate, prep as much as can in advance before I pull the SBC & Muncie.

[Kmelander]

Sheet metal...

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200918/a4484f9d50fae6584744fd4a5866231b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200918/19009a77f638761407bbadd2d653dfdd.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200918/2282fde8ea9981e49159bb45fe5c3329.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Welding it together...https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200919/f5d244af01e4616fcebd549778a63911.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200919/17431d349636786dcaf7be9796a566b8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200919/559f090ac8cbdba2e8b326d4ab1872cb.jpg

Just have to do the corners, prime, paint and hope the cell still fits!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

More fuel cell work yesterday. Made up the bottom corner flanges and plug welded them on. Still have to weld the bottom pan to the flanges from the inside, grind down all the plug welds and prime it.
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200920/32de851fc2d7562fedaf56ffaf466337.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200920/c4e44f9bb2e2ad896b153dd44b0de714.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200920/ce401033f66429bac4083d2f25d25ddc.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20200920/43ae92ae7a97d6c907a0a6a2bd90d927.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Shifted back into sheet metal and flange work on the car. Basically I need to get any sheet metal work done and out of the way before I weld that fuel cell can into the car. It’s obviously much easier to work in the trunk area with it absent.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/caf1b729ef54bddc1d436d1b7a5c323a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/19b14a3cd1f6934d9d972ff08201b797.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/8c3143667837d24cfa1c3cb262fe6412.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/a6c01c9d160dd64ca1b1debc6c120941.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/63983b7585976be1a6cb2a537ea1db64.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Had to weld a few more bars in the trunk, modify the front trunk floor template and made the panels.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/172d7c45a67dd80e6368d2c15672f881.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/7f3c8c401248d0780308351290a2706a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/7dde5eec8f860af027a8ec175c87a602.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/bbd5bb7e4e60acfe92c512ca91d638d8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/3c4cb713868a694d7939a95203c2932f.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ScotI]

Clean panel work.

[Kmelander]

Two more panels today.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/aefc00100d00abde077a453466ab73ee.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/cb24a840f4c2219674cac9fa8bf3f6bb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/d43d83b2c48ee073962143b4f6272b17.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201010/cc25d06582c0d2c5059baa52c93912be.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Goosesdad]

Looks Great

[214Chevy]

Back seat area fab work is nice. I like it!!

[Kmelander]

Received the new transmission today!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201014/319b19305dd9035209a16fb3a99fac76.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Zspoiler]

Was it like an early Christmas ?

[Kmelander]

Was it like an early Christmas ?


Bittersweet really. The 6-speed is another departure from my original plan. I spent some time taking the original hump off the floor, cleaning up the factory beaver sawed hole, fixing it all up nice, then welding it back on only to cut it all off again...so that’s a bit of an irritant.

But I am excited that it will make the car much more “drivable”, handle all the power I can offer it, and be dependable.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

This panel work sure is tedious. Managed to start welding them in.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201025/8ac1136a49adc225899929c5f9315412.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201025/f4ba2aba973eb843cbfd003dbcbdc9c9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201025/75d60df4d19f55a50743d26a7b274cf4.jpg

Threw some spray bomb paint over the primer on sides that would have limited access after they were in. Same for the cage/body/chassis. This adds a new dynamic to the process since you need to grind the paint off everywhere you are going to weld.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[syborg tt]

Wow I am blown away at this build. So what is your background as it looks like you own or work for a shop.

Keep posting pics as my neighbor just home a rust free 74 Nova from Kentucky and your giving me some bad ideas here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Wow I am blown away at this build. So what is your background as it looks like you own or work for a shop.

Keep posting pics as my neighbor just home a rust free 74 Nova from Kentucky and your giving me some bad ideas here.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


Nope. I’m an mechanical/energy engineer. This is my 1st build. Been at this car, off an on, since 2011. Built a rotisserie and sand blaster in the process. I’ve been pushing much harder on it since last fall it seems. Lots of metal work. Before that, there was a lot of cage work. This project began as a very different plan.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Put a few more panels on this afternoon.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201026/cc58f2fac64b28882c2e4724491d50ba.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201026/737a8adbd9423001d265932d8b7ba1c9.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[syborg tt]

Nope. I’m an mechanical/energy engineer. This is my 1st build. Been at this car, off an on, since 2011. Built a rotisserie and sand blaster in the process. I’ve been pushing much harder on it since last fall it seems. Lots of metal work. Before that, there was a lot of cage work. This project began as a very different plan.

That makes this build even better knowing that your just a regular guy.

I am looking forward to more post and of course more pictures.

[Kmelander]

Still putting panels in. Finally have most of the tin for the 4-link sheet metal box welded in.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/f6d03b37163bd205ea00ed8c2ab128e4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/3e3f89dbb8fd86958c367ad21fce0e57.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/9d078a5488733b96b1868b2cfd82556a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/7b688306c3da1ca2768c2e35b483c24d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/9dee4bd97315090ac6759c0b8ecdd412.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201102/db8cda84fe10933e05141dfe89c392dc.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Have all the 4-link box sheet metal welded in...finally.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/890066ef00a554b11b2e8dbce075be54.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/00032b7b7dba035109fd3e63652864c1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201108/b2450d6e8bb87c3cc4816e461425a37c.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Finished filling all the openings and holes in the package tray.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/295e2a3dd337791a2df926c1c11c5895.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/528ed042bdc75cc7ef014f0780af74aa.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/0191393457b28ada2daeb99a26fb2ff8.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/3f1e41250778d893ee5938ed878e5d35.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/b4b9a7c2892252a83efb38071f51ef7e.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Primed and coated. Black is EW RE. Self etch on all the new steel.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/8c265d054e8b14cb0fc273288ed1bdfe.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20201115/03803d690355b4824ae3b36efc1162db.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

I’m well overdue for an update but what happened to all the pictures I uploaded/posted? Looks like a bunch of broken links?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[ScotI]

I’m well overdue for an update but what happened to all the pictures I uploaded/posted? Looks like a bunch of broken links?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

I just did a quick run through pages 1, 4, & 5 & all the images are still there on my screen.

[Spiffav8]

I’m seeing all the pics as well.

[Kmelander]

I’ve done a lot of work on the car since I last posted. Following the interior sheet metal, I wanted to focus on the exterior metal, primarily the quarter panel skins. Was NOT looking forward to butt welding miles of sheet metal so I did some internet searching on different techniques. I found an interesting site where they were plug welding 1” backer strips along the seam and then stitch welding the panel on. Decided this was the way for me.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/165554ef081a93444a13c10597b58416.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/7326d6815dba3cf821c6d97deb7fa299.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/da24154854ad044a541765dd529424f3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/96319bf7d37179e378c8789dd9cd918b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/eed97f5a3b0db709824da3c949eb73ec.jpg

Same thing on the driver side.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/c9028b420f807a11816b8ed1e2d64e9a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/19dad5ea4449a3190ec04c7690d234ba.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/6dbf6d58920ee6673e334d1380ae5a36.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/c8b9d64764e176134958365bdac0fe4a.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/9f03581c199483c081d2289394bbc35a.jpg

Now, i haven’t welded them in yet because the back corners, especially the driver side, needs some special attention. I decided I wanted the rear tail light panel in place before I cut those corners out. I’m doing this just to keep the factory points of reference in place. This way, I can bring my replacement corners to the rear panel. I should mention that I put a trunk lid back on the car before starting any of this work to check/adjust body gaps. Once I was happy with that, I locked the quarters in place with some angle iron bracing between the quarters and the chassis.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Next it was onto the tail light panel. This was a much bigger project than I had anticipated. The rear part of the trunk pan had sections that needed to be replaced, plus the funky hump/hole for the drop down license plate needed to be dealt with since I didn’t need that anymore. Then there was some tin work to close up the bottom area where the factory rear frame rail connects to everything.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/aa231c96328907a78eac6fac0c54b301.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/413e95c4072b74a750dd7e7d91e96e38.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/ca8f9daea417ce369d5520919fba43f2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/3445add8c3bb0c2975d122a213a81c70.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/7e4456b8de2fdc8527605865fc530d53.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/5541cafddb9989635d9eea8315134a58.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/208aba39f37c039079239e6be6b7b4c6.jpg

So, when I finally got to this point, I still didn’t weld it in because I had a section of the rear window channel/upper quarter/trunk gutter on the driver side to address. Decided to do that too before welding the exterior panels in place. The back half of the car is covered with cleco pins.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Made the patch on the car.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/9f5a5e350c3331ffc3f39fa854241db1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/f250a5b386a6bdeb6563e00e91e4d45b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/16ddbc72970a46b69bc8f5235f85cfd2.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/9b458fb9a6589032073b72c9c4676353.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/cb21cbc99601abd26553f6711e9f104c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/918b10ced3efa9710f0ff6423c03e05b.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/f05ed60fcdeb4aa2c39aae1f3c769a91.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/098e007059c929dd8fefdef6b3c4f2eb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/c36ee1e001c968411b4acb131035f6db.jpg

Had to use the shrinker to get it to lay down after welding the seam.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Then cut out the rust and welded in the patch.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/a10083e63bb3b862fdcf916a892b1c29.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/c863565d084cc0da034846d11253b5db.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/265a8e97b7d1386a92ad1d8febcd3b67.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/d040a3b4926b0b98f8d5de99c1242ab9.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/4915ee556b12077a13aead3d324da97d.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/fde53b9eda6773a2df179fbd0e991bf1.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/7f29418c4ecfb9055818c261e818bc9c.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/40416a38f984f7d34dcec9be26da9cb3.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210303/17220a92f444d6e1d005808e48dd814d.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

After all that, I was ready to step away from sheet metal for a bit. Good news is, no more rusty metal left on the car!

I moved onto the engine next. Planned out the build, sold off some stuff, stripped the LQ4 down to the block. Heading to the machine shop this week.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[egoman]

Now thats what I see when someone says Pro-touring!
Full chassis and roll cage are maybe not always necessary but the work and look are appreciated. My car is beyond this point but my build thread is not quite there yet, LOL.
Keep up the good work and lets show them how to do this stuff!

[Kmelander]

Now thats what I see when someone says Pro-touring!
Full chassis and roll cage are maybe not always necessary but the work and look are appreciated. My car is beyond this point but my build thread is not quite there yet, LOL.
Keep up the good work and lets show them how to do this stuff!


I just met you and already I like you...but am a little pissed at you.[emoji846] I checked out your build thread. I have a soft spot for that body. My cousin and I spent some time in Cornwall trying out for one of the local hockey teams. We rode in his 86 Turbo Coupe back and forth across the border for a few weeks. Cut to the chase on that Cougar already, I don’t like living in the past! [emoji38]

I gotta go bring my block to the machine shop. That’s happening today...in real time!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Heading North to Concord, NC! Wonder what this thing will look like when it comes home? Still not 100% sure where their work will end and mine will begin. Depends on how good they are at sales and pricing I guess.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210304/52c8213137c035da278d2d059edfd1f1.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Dropped off the block on Thursday. Met Jeff, unloaded and talked about the build sheet. He showed me around his shop, checked out their dyno room. The shop is unbelievable! Full of machinery. Really cool experience and Jeff was great!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/cbc321a2ae35dfa29d7e8f45ae19a1a4.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210307/b84902a7caa72c1f5957570b1d4481b6.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[egoman]

Why are there not more people clamoring for updates?
Like I said before THIS is pro touring! If wretched excess isn't your plan its just a restomod. Those cars can also be amazing but just like the pro street movement of the 80s and 90s, there is a reason the "Pro" is attached to the title.
GIMME MORE!

[Kmelander]

Why are there not more people clamoring for updates?
Like I said before THIS is pro touring! If wretched excess isn't your plan its just a restomod. Those cars can also be amazing but just like the pro street movement of the 80s and 90s, there is a reason the "Pro" is attached to the title.
GIMME MORE!


Since last update:

Had to deal with my fuel cell can. Cut it in half and extended the length by 1/2”. My 22gal. fuel cell fits now. Added some handles to the retainer bars and integrated the install straps into the design for lifting the cell out of the can. Currently working on closing up the trunk pan around the fuel cell can.

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/16a0cfdda7d5e108eab50144bacccd17.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/d08c584c9dd09786bc3a2528e8343351.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/5e34f300bbd5078c747ac7f458682450.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/1dda35a1a94b1d0a65e5b010e5c84b1e.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/0ca8f131a6487be37e669579910089eb.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/9c8f735d57cb6bad72908cf7ac37f9b6.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/424abf0b31427222986239c7e0089cca.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/e8c947bea1347b53c9189e4506439cd0.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[Kmelander]

Decided to add some gusset tabs to the panhard bar chassis structure. Not sure why, just looked like it needed it. Better safe than sorry kept going through my mind. The Strongarm tools Mag tab tool is the ticket for gusset and tab work on tube chassis!

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/185b938de8b3a0bd324427a7c1b16f27.jpg

https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/0a460fdd04652ec8abf1d90cef7c6824.jpg
https://uploads.tapatalk-cdn.com/20210316/1d2e35f2015834dd78e3de1123783f2c.jpg


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[egoman]

Niiiiiiiiiiice

[Kmelander]

I finally finished getting the fuel cell can welded into the trunk plus closed in with sheet metal. The sides took some thought to figure out how to deal with the sloping trunk pan.

[egoman]

Are you going to use one of the Holley fuel cell insert pumps?
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/efi_fuel_pumps/fuel_cell_efi_fuel_pump_modules/parts/12-146

[Kmelander]

Are you going to use one of the Holley fuel cell insert pumps?
https://www.holley.com/products/fuel_systems/fuel_pumps_regulators_and_filters/fuel_pumps/efi_fuel_pumps/fuel_cell_efi_fuel_pump_modules/parts/12-146

Planning on using an Aeromotive Phantom 340 fuel pump along with an A1000 regulator. I'll be installing one of Jaz's sending units too. Will also need to order a foam kit for it.

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-18688

https://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-13204

[egoman]

I have looked at both. I am a ways off from having to choose. I understand the permanent magnet ones will not need upgraded wiring?

[Kmelander]

I have looked at both. I am a ways off from having to choose. I understand the permanent magnet ones will not need upgraded wiring?

I assume you are referring to the brushless motor fuel pumps? I looked at them very briefly, excessively priced for my budget. I think I read that they are quiet and durable. It seems like if you had to go with an external pump, they were the way to go?

I like the Phantom because it has a built in sump. If not for that, I'd be looking at the hydramat, which may actually be better than the sump. I'm really trying to avoid any fueling issues plus I can go EFI in the future.

Since this will be a return style system, I'm considering a cooler of some sort, in the loop. I imagine it will build heat recirculating fuel constantly. Also considering one of the Fitch catalyst systems. How's that for overcomplication? I'm thinking the return line is the best place for these accessories.

Since we are talking plumbing, the oiling system will have an external cooler as well. Would love to add a supplemental external oil pump for start-up pre-lube. Shutdown post-lube through the cooler would be fanatically unnecessary but neat to have, especially for turbo applications. I may just try to incorporate an accumulator with an electric solenoid.

[egoman]

https://www.jegs.com/p/Peterson-Fluid-Systems/Peterson-Remote-Filter-Mounts-with-Engine-Oil-Primer/2463358/10002/-1

[Kmelander]

Been trying to get to a point where I can spray some coatings in the trunk and quarter-panel cavities before welding the quarters onto the car. Thought of one more trunk project I needed to do before I could paint...Amp rack for the stereo.

[camcojb]

Gotta love progress!

[Kmelander]

Gotta love progress!

Right on. Ran out of motivation lately. My kid keeps coming up with projects to do to his truck which is wearing me out.

I've been struggling with the sound system speaker placements. I have a rough design on the system but the rear speakers/sub enclosure puzzle are still not finalized. I actually hired Mark from CAF for help with this. I can either use off the shelf enclosures or build custom. Neither is very appealing. Off the shelf means 3 separate (2 for component speakers, 1 for sub) enclosures. Custom = decent sized project! I'm not even remotely thrilled about the prospect of using fiberglass.

Most of my engine components finally arrived, got the heads yesterday. That's going to push the engine build forward at least. Just waiting on the front suspension, still, from CPP. Once that stuff shows up, and there is a fresh engine on the stand...I have a feeling my motivation factor will go up.

[Kmelander]

Finally painted the trunk/inside quarter panel areas. Flat black rustoleum oil based enamel mixed with acetone, hardener and japan dryer then sprayed on.

[egoman]

Been hoping for an update on this. I bought some Steel it paint for the under-stuff during bodywork. The guy on fab forums recommended it and apparently its a weld through epoxy. Not cheap though.

[Kmelander]

Update:

Seam sealed the trunk area and sprayed Lizard Skin. Painted the inside surfaces of the tail light panel and both quarter skins. Next, masked off the quarter skins and shot Lizard Skin on the inside of them. Top coated the trunk area and cage bars with flat black engine enamel. Then I fitted and welded the tail light panel in. After that, I welded in the DS rear corner section I had to fabricate followed by the DS quarter skin.

[ScotI]

Lots of work going on there.
Was the backing strip of material strictly put in place to ease panel alignment?

[waynieZ]

A lot of nice work going on here. Nice job fitting the quarter for welding.

[Kmelander]

Lots of work going on there.
Was the backing strip of material strictly put in place to ease panel alignment?

that plus allow me to cleco the panel during fitment, plus help eliminate blow through with the welder. It's been my experience that sheet metal butt joints need 1/16" to 1/8" gap between them to stitch weld without excessive warping. The only way I have ever been able to meet that requirement is with a flange and lots of cleco pins.

[Kmelander]

A lot of nice work going on here. Nice job fitting the quarter for welding.

Thanks Wayne. Appreciate it. It feels pretty good to have it attached to the car permanently. I can't even begin to estimate the hours I have into fitting those quarter skins but I know its a lot!

[ScotI]

that plus allow me to cleco the panel during fitment, plus help eliminate blow through with the welder. It's been my experience that sheet metal butt joints need 1/16" to 1/8" gap between them to stitch weld without excessive warping. The only way I have ever been able to meet that requirement is with a flange and lots of cleco pins.

Gotcha.

[Kmelander]

I got the PS quarter skin on the car over the holiday weekend. That is a milestone for me.

[egoman]

I hate bodywork but in order to keep costs reasonable I am going to have to do it. You make it look easy with just one picture.

[Kmelander]

I did this work back in November of 2019 but have not posted it here yet. I had taken my complete, rolling front subframe out of storage to begin prepping it for paint. In the process I discovered some significant rust on the engine cradle/crossmember that required repair.

This was a little more difficult that it appears in the pictures because I had to perform this work in sections in order to keep the suspension geometry as close to original as possible. This repair involved the structure that supports the lower control arm mounting pockets. For most of this work, I left the OEM control arms installed to help with stability. I used three, 3/16" steel ribs, shaped to the existing cradle. Two of them were welded directly to the control arm pockets. The steel I used to cover the bottom of the cradle was also 3/16" thick. As I said, I did it in sections to help keep the structure dimensionally stable. This also allowed me to use T-fillet welds between the cover pieces and the ribs, allowing full weld coverage of the joints. The center rib was welded in place first to allow two additional brace plates that would connect internally to the front rib.

[Kmelander]

I basically replaced the lower section in 2 steps. The front and then the rear. After I completed the cradle section, I went to work grinding out the porous factory weld sections around the spring buckets and re-welding. After that, I stitch welded the frame channels together on the top and bottom. Following that work, I sand blasted and primed the entire assembly. Then it went back into storage. Hopefully, I will be bringing it out again soon to paint and assemble.

[driller]

Awesome build

[ScotI]

What is your plan for updating the front suspension geometry to match the rear half refinements?

I really like your approach for this build. Very relatable using/tweaking what you have vs. the expensive (& usually faster) route of purchasing new/aftermarket suspension bits.

[Kmelander]

What is your plan for updating the front suspension geometry to match the rear half refinements?

I really like your approach for this build. Very relatable using/tweaking what you have vs. the expensive (& usually faster) route of purchasing new/aftermarket suspension bits.

I'm replacing the front suspension with CPP tubular control arms, Viking coil over shocks and a CPP C5 wheel kit. The wheel kit includes the steering knuckle, ball joints, unitized hub, GM type twin piston calipers plus rotors. I believe the steering knuckle has a raised upper ball joint for improved geometry. The spindle height is listed as stock I believe. The control arms, shocks and springs have arrived. I'm waiting for the wheel kit and I still need to order the front anti-sway bar, steering box and linkage.

[Kmelander]

The race shop finished up my engine last week so I took a ride up on Friday to see a couple of pulls.

https://youtu.be/X3A7kLBLRVU

[Kmelander]

update - Both quarters are fully welded and prepped with and 1 skim coat of Duraglas filler. I'll put another coat of the duraglas on each side then finalize the inside seams. For those, I'm planning on brush coating with EW rust encapsulator paint then applying seam sealer.

[egoman]

Kudos on the bodywork. I am dreading the stuff I have to do and its nothing compared to your stuff.

[ScotI]

The race shop finished up my engine last week so I took a ride up on Friday to see a couple of pulls.

What did the details/specs end up being for the motor?

[Kmelander]

What did the details/specs end up being for the motor?


4.030" bore, 4" stroke, Forged crank (eagle I think), Forged H-beam rods, ARP-2000 rod bolts, ARP main studs, I believe zero decked.
-12cc inverted dome pistons, 10.5:1 static CR
TFS GenX 220 cathedral Heads with Ti retainers (assembled), 65cc, 2.055" intake vlv., 1.57" ex. vlv.
Holley UltraXP 750 Carb
Comp Ultra Gold Rockers
Edelbrock LS1 dual-plane Intake Manifold
Cam Motion 231/237 duration @ .050'', 116.5 LSA, 113 ICL (116.5+3.5) , .621''/.612'' lift with 1.7 rockers
Hamburger 1" carb spacer
MSD LS Ignition


About $12.3k on the dyno.

[Kmelander]

Finished up a little more body work around the trunk area. Patched up the gutter channels and welded up the tail light panel body seams plus a coat of filler over the welds.

[Kmelander]

Bit more progress to report. I've got the dash repaired and back in the car, which was a good bit of work. I gave the dash and firewall the same treatment as my inner quarters. Also finalized the cage. Added a few more bars and gussets. I'm working on the transmission cut-out now.

[Kmelander]

short update - Still working on the old girl. Lots of prep, making and spray-work.

[ScotI]

Progress is nice. Thanks for sharing the updates.

[WSSix]

It's looking good. Keep up the progress and thanks for sharing.

[Kmelander]

I took my first "swipe" at body working before primer. Literally, my 1st time ever. Definitely a steep learning curve but managed to get the panels much better before the epoxy went on. it took me about 3 weeks and I could have easily went another 3 weeks. I just didn't want to leave the poor gal naked any longer. I would have liked, and tried to accomplish, getting the car off the rotisserie a couple weeks ago but it didn't work out. Now my plan is to leave it on there a while longer, at least get that body much closer to high-build and blocking only before I take it down. It's just so much easier to work on it on the rotisserie. I'd be shooting myself in the foot if i take it off and try to work through the remaining issues. I'm even considering fitting and working the doors before i take it down. I'm pretty sure I want to base and clear the car assembled. I don't think I want to paint this car in pieces and then assemble because that pretty much means assembling it, taking it apart, painting it and then re-assembling it. It feels like assembling it and then painting it is the right move for me. I do think I will try to paint the jambs early though.

I've got some other things to work on and honestly, I need a break from the body work/paint stuff for a bit. Planning on fabricating some wheel stands, getting the front tires mounted and dropping off the seats for upholstery next. I've also got to dust off the engine, squirt the cylinders and turn it over a few times per the builder. I've really got to reorganize my garage and make some changes there too. I've officially accumulated more tools and parts than I can reasonably store in there, and in my house! The collection of paint and body tools put me over the limit! There is likely a storage shed project in my immediate future.

[camcojb]

Looks really good. :thumbsup:

[ScotI]

Looks really good. :thumbsup:

x2.
Nice work.... Especially for someone that doesn't do it regularly.

[Kmelander]

I'm overdue for an update. Haven't really accomplished much on the car but have been busy preparing for working on the car. I ordered my front tires after figuring out what size to get and had them mounted. I did finish modifying my OEM (Chev express van) bucket seat frames plus had an upholsterer lined up to cover them for me...that fell through. I spent entirely too much time (like 2 months of free time) fabricating telescoping wheel stands.

Now I'm scratching my head trying to figure our what to do next. The long overdue goal of getting the car off the rotisserie is conflicting with the numerous places on the car that still need detail type body work. I'm also wrestling with the idea of painting the jams of the car before I take it down. I really wasn't planning on putting the car back on the rotisserie once I take it down, but now I'm wondering if I'll be able to avoid it. More than anything, I would like to start putting parts (which have taken over my garage and home) on the car.

Right now I'm thinking I will address any body work fine tuning on the lower sections of the car where it would be unpleasant to do after its on the ground. The rockers for example. Next paint the jams (front and back glass channels, door openings and maybe even the bottom of the rockers. Then take it down and get it on its suspension on the wheel stands. Follow with the engine and trans into the car continuing with the endless list of things to do to get it back together and running. At some point down the road, when it feels right, I'll finish up the upper body work details followed by primer and paint. Simple right? What am I overlooking that is going to screw everything up?

[ScotI]

Those stands look solid! I guess you built them to be adjustable in height?

[Kmelander]

Those stands look solid! I guess you built them to be adjustable in height?

Yes. I'll use a scissor jack to raise/lower when the car is on them. 11" to 18" off the ground with one position in the middle. They turned out good but were a lot of work for what they are. Each one weighs 61#. Had to make the dolly so they could be moved without getting a hernia!

[ScotI]

Yes. I'll use a scissor jack to raise/lower when the car is on them. 11" to 18" off the ground with one position in the middle. They turned out good but were a lot of work for what they are. Each one weighs 61#. Had to make the dolly so they could be moved without getting a hernia!

Solidly built w/heavy wall material = SAFE in this instance.
That's good weight. Your work on the car looks outstanding!

[Ketzer]

Excellent work!
I'm at the same point in my project so I cant tell you what will work out best...but I plan to keep mine on the rotisserie until fully painted.


Jeff-

[jarhead]

Cool stands!

[Kmelander]

The car is in epoxy and off the rotisserie. I mocked up the front and rear suspension plus the engine and trans and I'm working through some fitment and clearance issues currently. I was very happy to see that the narrowed rear fit correctly. I dumped a bunch of oil on my garage floor on my 1st attempt at installing the drivetrain. Turns out the flywheel bolt holes on my aftermarket crank are not blind.

The CPP tubular arms are nice, they went in easy and fit nicely. I did have to open up the round hole in the subframe at the top of the shock on one side of the car. The top of the shock body was interfering with the subframe. The biggest issue I've had is getting the driveline angles correct. The Hooker stuff left my engine/trans at about 5 degrees slope which is not what they advertise. I've been in contact with Holley support and they are unable to explain it at this point. I've had to shim my T56 Mag and additional 1.5" on the crossmember to get it down to 3 degrees. This puts the transmission quite high in the car and will likely create a clearance issue with the driveshaft next. My shifter is looking a bit tall also. Thankfully, I was able to get a measurement to order my driveshaft from Denny's. It was a pleasure dealing with them.

Another issue I'm dealing with is my hand built 4-link crossmember. I'm in the process of cutting the center section down a bit to give the driveshaft clearance at full rear droop. While I have the rear out of the car, I'll button up the brakes, brake lines and install my Moser cover. When it goes back in, it will also get new 1.25" link bars with bigger FK rod ends.

I've got all of my fuel and brake lines to run front to back also. Planning to run full size (-8AN) supply and return fuel lines with a bypass regulator under the hood. I really wanted to run hard lines but ultimately decided to use Jegs Pro Flow Extreme braided. It's not PFTE lined but is supposed to perform like PFTE lined. We shall see. That's about it for now.

[camcojb]

Nice work!!!! :)

[jarhead]

Going to be a sweet ride, nice work!

I like the wheel stands too, what brand are they?

[Kmelander]

Going to be a sweet ride, nice work!

I like the wheel stands too, what brand are they?

Thank you. The stands are DIY brand. Way more work than I care to remember at this point. I have graduated to a small hyd. bottle jack to lift/lower them. They work great now. They came in really handy when I installed the motor/trans. I had the rear on the stands and the front on the ground. It made a huge difference in approach angle.

[Kmelander]

I'm still alive and have been continuing to work on my Nova as time and money allows. Thought I would add a quick update post of things I've done since my last post so long ago.
1. Fender flares! This was a big job which took me about 6 months. Still not done, need to finish the inner fenders.
2. Wiper cowl cover louver delete.
3. Door skins. Rebuilding the doors, adding power windows, locks and mirrors. Still working on the mirrors.

[Kmelander]

Retrofit power mirrors and doors back on the car The mirrors were a little custom side project. I think they fit the body quite well. I'm happy with the result... at least until I start body working them. Can't seem to post any pictures, sorry. I'll try again later.

[Kmelander]

Retrofit power mirrors and doors back on the car The mirrors were a little custom side project. I think they fit the body quite well. I'm happy with the result... at least until I start body working them. Can't seem to post any pictures, sorry. I'll try again later.

Pictures.

[syborg tt]

Blown away by the detail you’re going to on this build !!!

The car looks fantastic


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[4GOTNPNY]

Inner (DSE) and outer wheel houses + trunk extensions so I could get the quarter skins mocked-up to figure out my axle/housing length. Then I bought 80' of 1.75" x 0.120" DOM tube, nice bender and cheap notcher. Started making bars.

what kind of tube bender is that i would love to invest in one for my own project

[Kmelander]

what kind of tube bender is that i would love to invest in one for my own project

I got the JD2 Model 32 I believe. It works great. Would be better with hydraulic power though. If/when I ever need to do it again, I'll add the hydraulic power to it.