67 Nova Project "Resurrection"

[Gmachine1911]

Hey all, recently finished up my 68 Camaro project and had been looking for a 66-67 Chevy II Nova for a while. My first car was a 66 Nova but when I was 17 I traded it along with $1500 for the 68 Camaro I have to this day (build thread Project "Cha Ching"). For a long time I've wanted to get another Nova as I've always loved the body style of the 66-67's so this past weekend I went and checked one out that was pretty rough but had a "very negotiable price". Anyways, ended up hauling this thing back with me so it'll be my new project. The car's pretty rough but actually came with a lot of new sheet metal, had good doors, new full quarters, VIN/cowl tags and a clean title. The plan will be to make a nice driver out of it, probably put an automatic OD trans in it, upgrade the suspension, etc. but not sure on the power plant. I've ordered a one piece floor/rear seat/trunk pan assembly along with inner/outer rocker panels. This, combined with the new firewall, LH/RH side inner and outer cowl panels and top inner/outer cowl panels that came with the car will go a long way towards making this body shell a solid starting point.

[Roscoe03]

I really enjoyed the build of your 68 Camaro and I'm looking forward to what you're going to do with the Nova!

[214Chevy]

Gonna be sweet watching this one come together.

[waynieZ]

Sweet project I love those mid year nova's. I'll be watching.

[kevin_l]

Following, looks like you got some work ahead of you! Can't wait to see some progress pictures!

[Gmachine1911]

I really enjoyed the build of your 68 Camaro and I'm looking forward to what you're going to do with the Nova!

Thank You, I keep reminding myself that this one's not a race so we'll see how it goes!

Gonna be sweet watching this one come together.

Thank you, I'm looking forward to it!

Sweet project I love those mid year nova's. I'll be watching.

Most appreciated...this one's pretty rough for sure but I'm looking forward to the experience:cheers:

Following, looks like you got some work ahead of you! Can't wait to see some progress pictures!

For sure! It's got a little too much patina!:lol:

[jh99]

Nice project. Good luck with the build.

[Gmachine1911]

Got some parts in for the Nova. Went with the full floor/trunk pan and some other goodies from Classic Industries. Since the car didn't have a spec of flooring, frame rails, or firewall in it to use as a reference, I was concerned about getting those items in the correct location since I don't have a car to take measurements from. I've essentially got all the front panels for the body so when the dust settles, I'll have a rock solid body shell with the only original panels left being the roof and dash...

[Gmachine1911]

Here's a shot with the firewall sitting on it just to get an idea how things will line up...I ordered some full rocker panels since the description for the floor pan in Classic's website didn't specify if the rear frame rails or inner rockers were included. Conveniently, all of those items were attached, however, the inner rockers were bent during transport so rather then removing the outers from the new assemblies, I'll just remove the damaged inners from the floor and weld in the new assemblies once the body's mounted and squared up.

[Gmachine1911]

A little close up shot...

[Boss 5.0]

WOW! That will be a hell of a project. I like the big one piece floors. Did it come on that frame/jig?

[Gmachine1911]

WOW! That will be a hell of a project. I like the big one piece floors. Did it come on that frame/jig?

Yeah, it's definitely gonna be a project but it'll be rewarding seeing it come together. It comes attached to the steel frame. I'm gonna use it as a frame jig of sorts to level the pan up and get the body mounted. :welder:

[waynieZ]

Wow that's a big head start getting that in like that all in one piece. It looks like a nice piece.

[Gmachine1911]

Wow that's a big head start getting that in like that all in one piece. It looks like a nice piece.

Thanks, yeah, I was excited to see it. The quality seems very good from just looking at it. We'll find out how good when it's time to set the body down. Originally, my plan was to get it sitting level, put the body on and then change the rockers. Now I'm thinking I might go ahead and level it up, install the new full rockers then weld in support braces on the body so I can cut the old rockers off. Then I can sit the body on the floor, square everything up, tack it down and install the doors to make sure things line up properly. At that point, I can tack weld the quarter panels in place (they're lined up but only screwed on) and start removing the inner/outer side cowls one by one and replacing them as well as the upper/lower cowl panels and firewall.

I'd love to be able put the mini tubs in while the body's off but I'm afraid to push my luck. Seems like it should be feasible, however, I don't wanna end up with gaps between the wheel wells and quarters. I suppose I could always fit up the outers with the body on, mark my cut lines then pull the body off again...we'll see, stay tuned!

[Tinker]

Dammit Shane,
Your going to get two projects done before I finish my one. I kinda feel like a slacker. Lol
This Nova is going to be a solid car. I'm tuning in on this one for sure.

[Gmachine1911]

Dammit Shane,
Your going to get two projects done before I finish my one. I kinda feel like a slacker. Lol
This Nova is going to be a solid car. I'm tuning in on this one for sure.

Lol, What are you waitin' for Chris?!! Don't make me have to drive up to Wisconsin and help you!:drive: :D

Thanks for tuning in!

[eville]

Looks like fun. I’d be so tempted to look at a full frame since there’s no floor.

Can’t wait to see the progress.

[Gmachine1911]

Looks like fun. I’d be so tempted to look at a full frame since there’s no floor.

Can’t wait to see the progress.

Yeah, I've already been checking them out. I promised myself this was gonna be just a "nice" driver but I'm not sure I'm capable of settling. I'm thinking about picking up a less-expensive bad habit lately....maybe cocaine or gambling!:lmao:

[jarhead]

Shane, I really enjoyed Cha-Ching and now this. I am following along, I am sure it will be exceptional just like Cha-Ching. You have already done more since you have got it than I have done in months, lol,

Joe

[Gmachine1911]

Shane, I really enjoyed Cha-Ching and now this. I am following along, I am sure it will be exceptional just like Cha-Ching. You have already done more since you have got it than I have done in months, lol,

Joe

Thanks Joe, I really appreciate it! I've been keeping an eye out for updates on your Torino, you're doing a great job! Congrats on the upcoming retirement, too!

[Gmachine1911]

So got a couple more pieces of the puzzle this week for the Nova. DSE mini tub kit and subframe connectors arrived. Finally had a little time today to make some progress so I got the floor pan assembly leveled up and tack welded down. Cut the inner rocker panels off the new pan and got the new complete rockers welded on in their place. Set the mini tubs up there just to see how things are gonna fit up. Next time, I'll get the body braced up and cut the old rockers off to make room to set the body on the new floor. From there, I can get it squared up and start replacing the crusty panels on the front end and getting the mini tubs and subframe connectors installed.

[Gmachine1911]

Here's another shot.

[214Chevy]

Did you order that one-piece floor from Real Deal Steel?

[Gmachine1911]

Did you order that one-piece floor from Real Deal Steel?

No, I actually got mine from Classic Industries. They had a sale going on and I was able to get a pretty substantial discount so the timing worked out. Thanks

[Gmachine1911]

Scored a great set of re-skinned doors this weekend, check that off the list!

[waynieZ]

Nice!

[Gmachine1911]

So Im to the point where I need the Nova body at the house in order to make progress so I brought it home this weekend and had time today to get some hours in. Here's what I started with...after I braced it up and removed the rear quarters and tail panel in order to remove the old rusty rockers.

[Gmachine1911]

Here's a shot from what used to be the rear! Along the way I found several areas where I'm gonna need to fab up some patch panels but shouldn't be anything too terrible. I did go ahead and decide to order up a new package tray panel given the current condition of mine. If I don't replace it I'll never forgive myself... besides, I need the rear seat braces since mine were haphazardly cut short by the Blue-Tongued Devil!

[Gmachine1911]

After some help from my Dad, my kids and their friends, we got the body set down on the floor pan assembly! That felt really good and although nothing is squared up, tacked down or flanges dollied, it was starting to take shape...so far I'm really pleased with how well everything seems to line up. There's plenty of fine tuning to do but no major issues so far.

[Gmachine1911]

Wanted to hang the quarters back on the check fitment to the rockers, etc. after seeing that, I just had to throw some of the other stuff on there to see it looking like an actual car. Once I get it squared up and tacked down I'll begin replacing the other panels and dialing in the fitment. I'll need to install the upper/lower cowl panels, inner/outer side cowl panels, rear package tray panel, rear filler panel, DSE mini tubs, firewall, etc. etc.

[Gmachine1911]

Finally got the remainder of the necessary parts to fully assemble the body shell. Now hopefully I can carve some time out this weekend to get some things permanently in place.

[Gmachine1911]

I ended up springing for new package tray sheet metal as mine was pretty rough in one corner, had been butchered for speakers at some point and had also fallen victim to some clown with a torch who cut the seat support braces off short...surprisingly, those seem impossible to buy, new or used! I knew if I didn't replace it now, I'd never forgive myself. One cool thing is that it comes with new trunk hinges and torsion springs.

[wiedemab]

I thought this might be helpful. I used it when I built mine from basically the same condition you are starting with. It says it's for the earlier years, but I'm pretty sure it's all the same.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5QseVuKRKLQhMBvVvmKsUGhADFt7zLhsMgygY2pFSmSClki8v9 ZHSA2v4hwOhmG6MHzyxXAK-sa4VIuoLfGujuK7183tvagdJewxgt607WSwZK6Ua3jS2SaeFfu PdvqnbNMFxhdCv65wXWa93sWYNnqb37Vmt1AgNTaXvlq6Voivz 5tXLlJp_OYnOeef71sxDSvH3a0SZDNzVw5QJRR_YKdjV8wkblY b0xAP4IfeNcRlIVlZFQIecOIzuYx3aBECUT8Ktq0T9xwed4CdG 8dXXgh5rXb1iivBdjSCJHv0h7VivdtDWk82dcKu-PzIq-FkC9pQnEOB3HPAhLmHLY-Cr1qTmwH8-plkVvFU3WH_XJaPMXjig8m1HU8Gn7IEPpiceVmOq1sTcxIXLXw GVhl0M61OTtgVEQg-lXNFqLp3RHP-S-GuZicejDGd6wz0GHo9QiHbZcmsZU163Z1Auz0jNuPM-O8B1Ss08fvO0XY3KIpPEgHnJPi_m_R9iftRq0b7T4-NO9oknmSjDbzeJOgrjGduaWl3s2ySMFqu5Ml6C9Pp8GQncyo3Z a-02PJwlFe50t_dfdMjUmsHs-a5wYGEzsVu-8xNGEU1bia9pQwsSYKQ01HTGxDE88xvZqfJzIsgfoYHE6ibmyc L9rSfmIEn93JVi_lqozZM1BV_H0BcCR9kLbguuIIqjoZ_=w121 0-h907-no

[Gmachine1911]

I thought this might be helpful. I used it when I built mine from basically the same condition you are starting with. It says it's for the earlier years, but I'm pretty sure it's all the same.

https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/5QseVuKRKLQhMBvVvmKsUGhADFt7zLhsMgygY2pFSmSClki8v9 ZHSA2v4hwOhmG6MHzyxXAK-sa4VIuoLfGujuK7183tvagdJewxgt607WSwZK6Ua3jS2SaeFfu PdvqnbNMFxhdCv65wXWa93sWYNnqb37Vmt1AgNTaXvlq6Voivz 5tXLlJp_OYnOeef71sxDSvH3a0SZDNzVw5QJRR_YKdjV8wkblY b0xAP4IfeNcRlIVlZFQIecOIzuYx3aBECUT8Ktq0T9xwed4CdG 8dXXgh5rXb1iivBdjSCJHv0h7VivdtDWk82dcKu-PzIq-FkC9pQnEOB3HPAhLmHLY-Cr1qTmwH8-plkVvFU3WH_XJaPMXjig8m1HU8Gn7IEPpiceVmOq1sTcxIXLXw GVhl0M61OTtgVEQg-lXNFqLp3RHP-S-GuZicejDGd6wz0GHo9QiHbZcmsZU163Z1Auz0jNuPM-O8B1Ss08fvO0XY3KIpPEgHnJPi_m_R9iftRq0b7T4-NO9oknmSjDbzeJOgrjGduaWl3s2ySMFqu5Ml6C9Pp8GQncyo3Z a-02PJwlFe50t_dfdMjUmsHs-a5wYGEzsVu-8xNGEU1bia9pQwsSYKQ01HTGxDE88xvZqfJzIsgfoYHE6ibmyc L9rSfmIEn93JVi_lqozZM1BV_H0BcCR9kLbguuIIqjoZ_=w121 0-h907-no


OMG, you're my Hero...:king: Thank you!

[TomM]

See if any of these help

T,

[Gmachine1911]

See if any of these help

T,

All I can say is "Wow"! I appreciate this info more then you can know. I was especially sweating positioning the firewall/floor pan supports as they are used to attach the subframe so this information is invaluable. Thanks for taking the time to post it up! I've definitely got some reading material to sift thru now:headscratch:

[wiedemab]

Tom - that's some nice details - -thanks for sharing. Mine is a page from an old frame spec manual that Dad saved (Old bodyman - saved all sorts of good stuff!)

[TomM]

You guys are welcome.....don't remember exactly where I got these, years of scouring the internet I suppose.......Novas are kinda my thing......

Following along on the build on Steve's as well......glad you are bringing her back...I'd do the same thing....

T,

[Gmachine1911]

Ok, been a minute since I had any real progress to post on the Nova but here goes. Also, my account got changed up somehow and I wasn’t able to login until now so big shout out to Camcojb for getting me squared away!:thankyou:

So I’ve been accumulating more parts and finally got some time over the last two weeks to work on the car. I actually took a few days off this past week just to get some stuff done.

Got the old package tray out, new one cut to pieces for the DSE mini tubs and mocked up in the car.

[Gmachine1911]

After getting the mini tubs and new outer wheel house fitted up, I mocked up the rear quarters, tail panel, trunk and filler panel to be sure things were on track.

[Gmachine1911]

Next, I got started removing the old upper cowl panel (what was left of it) as well as the inner and outer side cowl panels...

[Gmachine1911]

Later that afternoon, I had the new parts mocked up. Had to re-check to make sure it was still square, tweaked some areas for better fitment and finished up a few stray items in the back but overall everything lined up well.

[Gmachine1911]

Then, this thing of beauty showed up...

[Gmachine1911]

More parts...

[Gmachine1911]

So catching up to today, put in a long day today but accomplished what I set out to get done. First of all, I bought me a 120v spot welder from Harbor Freight. Wasn’t sure how that was gonna work out but it actually worked quite well. I knew I’d be limited on where I could use it but just being able to do the firewall and cowl panels alone would be worth it. Here’s a shot of the firewall after welding it across the top. Should make the bodywork side much easier.

[Gmachine1911]

Next up I got the firewall/floor pan supports fitted up and welded in. These fit pretty good as well and I used the subframe to make sure everything was in the right spot. So glad to have that part done! I also managed to get my hand with a 60 grit flapper disc, right thru the glove! Word to the wise, wear leather gloves for that stuff.

Also, just some random pics. Next is to get the thing off the metal frame and onto some jack stands or casters of some type. Still have some welding to do and plenty of welds to dress. After that, i need to get the torque boxes and subframe connectors welded in and get the extra holes in the firewall and core support filled.

[214Chevy]

It's come a long way from that first pic. Nice work!!

[hdduramaxman]

Those inner quarters are super nice! Killer work as usual :thumbsup:

[Gmachine1911]

So been stockpiling some parts for the Nova...mostly the hard to find trim pieces I’m missing but also ordered up some front fenders and roof panel. Have it scheduled to go in the body shop first week of Feb to get the panel alignment done, roof panel and rain gutters installed and get everything welded up...some things are better left to the experts! In the meantime, thought I’d throw a couple of pics up.

[WSSix]

Nice work, Shane. You certainly have come a long way. Keep up the good work!

[Gmachine1911]

Nice work, Shane. You certainly have come a long way. Keep up the good work!

Thanks, Trey, I appreciate it! Can’t wait to see this thing sitting on the ground again. If I’m being honest, I would’ve probably been better off passing on this one, however, there’s great satisfaction in seeing it come back to life again. Besides, not counting the suspension, I still have WAY less then the cost of a new body in it, so I keep telling myself I’m coming out ahead!:lostmarbles:

[streetbird]

I had a harbor freight spot welder to, it tack the panel but I do some strengh tests and the tack was weaks. So I didnt take chance and I didnt use it.

Take 2 sheets metal and do only one spot. Do rotation and you will be suprise how it break easy

[Gmachine1911]

So I got what should be the final pieces of replacement metal for the Nova today. I was originally gonna make patch panels for the inner A-pillars and bottom of the front door jamb areas that need replaced, however, I decided to just spring for the entire panels. The car goes to the body shop next week for panel fitment, roof replacement, A-pillar repair, etc. and when I get it back it’ll be a rock solid foundation for the fun part of the build to begin on. It’ll be nice to be adding parts instead of cutting them off!
I also pulled the front end back off and started filling the holes in the firewall.

[87SS]

Wow!......Keep up the nice work!
What color is in the plans?

[Gmachine1911]

Wow!......Keep up the nice work!
What color is in the plans?

Thank you! As much I enjoy it, I’m ready for a break, especially when it comes to panel fitment...it’s truly a skill and I’m not blessed to have it!
The color choice is still up in the air but while we were on HRPT we saw Church Boys’ 66 Nova and my better half fell in love with that maroon. I was initially pulling for Silver but lately I’ve been eyeballing white which is surprising since I swore against having a white car after my Camaro was white for so many years. There’s something that keeps drawing me back to the white, though.

[bkswede]

You’re making good progress, and it looks great! Keep the updates coming!


Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

[Gmachine1911]

Got some goodies for the Nova today since the body shop needed the tail lights to get the rear sheet metal lined up. I like the clean look of the all-red lens so I opted for the backup light delete.

[Gmachine1911]

They’re making some good progress on the body. Got the doors and quarters lined up and doors latch properly. Also got the rocker panels lined up and the drip rails installed. Next up will be the trunk drops, tail panel and filler panel. After that it’ll be the A-pillar panels, roof panel and the top inner and outer cowl panels, etc. Didn’t take many pics but here’s a shot...sorry about the poor quality!

[Gmachine1911]

Thought I’d share an update...nothing earth shattering but it’s getting closer. Should be done next week, just needing to get the A-pillar patch panels and roof installed then the upper cowl can be welded on. The plan is to get it home and on the rotisserie so I can dress some welds on the underside, get the Quadralink installed and finish filling the firewall holes. From there it’ll get bead blasted and put in epoxy primer. Im very happy with how everything is coming together, especially given where I started at with it. :weld: Thanks for looking!

[Steve68]

SSS, its actually starting to look like a car again, not to bad....

[jarhead]

Awesome work Shane!

[Gmachine1911]

Awesome work Shane!

Thank You, Joe!

[Gmachine1911]

I’ve been eagerly waiting to see these new A-pillar panels in place. The old ones were pretty rough and had been the victim of some hacking. With so many of these panels available, it just makes sense on this car to replace them now. Here’s the passenger side for anyone wanting to see what the fit looks like...the original dash panel was removed for easier access and will be reinstalled once the backside has been bead blasted and put in epoxy. Aside from the inner roof structure, the dash is the only remaining original metal on the car.

[Gmachine1911]

Got the backside of the dash blasted and epoxy primed...ready to be reinstalled.

[Gmachine1911]

Picked up a trunk lid molding. It’s an original, not NOS, piece and the chrome’s in phenomenal condition. When I bought the car I didn’t get any trim with it so I’ve been picking up various pieces along the way. I’ve got a small fortune invested in trim at this point but this piece was priced right and the condition is better then most of the junk I’ve seen out there. I got it cleaned it up and just need to repaint the black areas...

[Gmachine1911]

Finally got this heap back from the body shop today. Here’s what she looks like...literally the only original metal is the dash, inner rear quarter panel structure and inner roof structure, everything else is new.
Since the beginning of this project, there were some (not on this site) who questioned why a person wouldn’t just buy a reproduction body and start with a fresh slate. While I’ll admit I questioned that many times along the way myself, I was confident that for me, it was more cost effective to refurb the old body, even one that was in terrible condition. So for the good of the experiment, I’ll tip my hand on some personal information and lay out how that scenario shook out for me.
Keep in mind when I say body, I’m counting everything from the doors back (no front clip, no suspension) but including everything that welds to the body such as frame connectors, mini tubs, torque boxes, and even door latches, door hinges, roof panel, trunk lid and trunk latch. This car may be the closest “apples to apples” comparison of New vs Old simply due to the fact that literally almost everything was replaced that can be bought for this car. As with my previous builds, I keep a very detailed spreadsheet with every cost associated with the car so it’s easy to track budget, expenditures and part numbers and sources.
So for comparison purposes, if a person were buying a new 67 Nova body from Real Deal Steel and it included the automatic shift, bucket seat, quarter panels, doors, roof, deck lid and mini tub options, as well as $500 for shipping (which I think is conservative) and sales tax (7% for me), you’d be at basically a number very close to $18,083 for a car with No VIN tag, no subframe connectors and no torque boxes. Keep in mind, that’s not taking into account getting any sale deals on the body, etc. but it’s also not taking into account the fact that you’re gonna spend a minimum of a few thousand dollars (if you’re lucky) getting that new body properly gapped and adjusted for paint prep. It also doesn’t account for the fact that you won’t have a VIN tag...or if you do, add the cost of the donor car and bail bond (if you get caught!) to the price of the body.
In my case, for the car you see there, while not perfect, I believe it represents something closer to a finished product in that it has proper gaps all around and includes a VIN tag and the reward of saving an original car from the graveyard...all at a price that’s $13.58 less then the new body shipped to my house but otherwise untouched.
My point with all this is simply to provide a real world example with hard numbers for others who may be considering a “New vs Refurb” build. At the end of the day, there’s no right or wrong way, only personal preference. For me, my preference was to preserve the VIN and know that I had brought some old bones back to life!

[Gmachine1911]

A buddy was kind enough to lend me a rotisserie so I was able to get the car mounted on that which should make installing the Quadralink, cleaning up some welds and paint/bed lining a ton easier. I won’t know how to act without molten metal burning thru my shirt as I lay on my back welding!:weld:

[Beechy]

Shane......that's quite a chunk of work you've taken on, great work and documentation, thanks for the updates.
Bravo to TomM for posting that body-in-white data...saved an ulcer I expect.

However, back on post 51 u stated that you'd saved a bunch of money by going the route u did. Post 66 above (which is incredibly well detailed) says u saved $13.58.....is there a decimal place gone missing?
Also what percentage of the work did u do compared to body shop? SWAG.

More power to you.

[eville]

Love it! Glad you didn't buy a "new" body. On principal it just bothers me.
What's up with the Camaro up in the air? Spring cleaning?

[Gmachine1911]

Shane......that's quite a chunk of work you've taken on, great work and documentation, thanks for the updates.
Bravo to TomM for posting that body-in-white data...saved an ulcer I expect.

However, back on post 51 u stated that you'd saved a bunch of money by going the route u did. Post 66 above (which is incredibly well detailed) says u saved $13.58.....is there a decimal place gone missing?
Also what percentage of the work did u do compared to body shop? SWAG.

More power to you.

Thanks, I appreciate it! Yes, Tom’s info was a huge help in making sure everything was in its proper placement. It definitely saved a lot of second guessing and rework...I appreciate it Big time!

Yeah, for sure, there’s no error in the decimal placement, unfortunately, mostly because there were some additional items that I could have reused but decided to ahead and replace “while I was in there” type of thing. The biggest over-run was the A-pillar panels which led to the roof panel and rain gutters (or vice versa) The bottom of both A-pillars were rusted out above the rockers and in areas on the inner portions next to the windshield. Initially, the body shop quote was to just patch those areas, however, I decided I wanted to replace the roof since the PO had butchered the seam on the passenger quarter as well as both A-pillar seams while removing the outer A-pillar panels. Since I had sprung for the complete new A-pillar panels, I didn’t see the point in cutting off small areas when I could just have the whole thing installed on both sides netting a better finished product. That involved removing the outer cowls which I had installed already. Since the top part of those panels attach to the inner roof structure under the roof skin, it made further sense to do it that way while replacing the roof panel.

Some other items that impacted the bottom line was that I got too busy with work and went ahead and had the shop do some things that I had originally planned to do such as finish welding the mini tubs, closing off the factory fresh air vent in the lower cowl and rebuilding the upper door hinges...nothing major but it all starts adding up and accounted for about $1800. In the end, between work, kid’s sports and thrashing on the Nova, I was beginning to burn out and just wanted it to get done.

Although there’s no way to know for sure in my case, and definitely every new body is different, I still say that the biggest savings would come from the fact that there’s still gonna be a substantial body shop bill to get a new body gapped and have panels massaged. I have a buddy who bought a new 69 Camaro body and paid big time to have the door, trunk and rocker gaps filled with metal rod to close the gaps to 3/16’s as well as other problem areas. That may not be a requirement for everybody and certainly many people have the ability to self-perform more work and are more patient then I am and don’t mind walking away when they feel burned out which could save even more money.

As far as the percentage of work, I did all of the rough alignment and positioning of all the sheet metal as well as installing the mini tubs, torque boxes, subframe connectors, front subframe supports, rearpackage tray, full floor pan, etc. when I took it to the body shop, most items were held in place with either sheet metal screws or vice grips and spot welds. I intentionally left everything “loose” so they could do the final panel alignment and fine tune the gaps without first having cut everything loose. They then replaced the roof, A-pillars, rain gutters, fit the stainless trim to the window openings, fit the tail lights to the tail panels, removed the dash so I could get it blasted and primed and closed out the lower cowl. They also primed and painted the inside of the lower cowl since this area’s not accessible once the top cowl is welded on. They also sanded and protected the top of the inner roof structure before reinstalling the new roof.

The pics below give you an idea of what it looked like when they got it (top) vs when they were done with it (bottom). No difference to someone who doesn’t know what to look for but big difference in the way things fit. Hope that helps and thanks for tuning in!

[Gmachine1911]

Love it! Glad you didn't buy a "new" body. On principal it just bothers me.
What's up with the Camaro up in the air? Spring cleaning?

Thanks! I’m the same way, it’s more rewarding to me to save an original body for sure. It’s funny cause there were several people on another forum that thought I was completely outside my mind for even considering this rebuild. Its funny to see the difference in mindset as I’ve seen many builds on
Lat-G and PT.com that started out like this one and turned out phenomenal.

Yeah, been driving the Camaro some and it was in need of a top to bottom cleaning. Also got all the fluids changed and adjusted the e-brake, etc. Have plans to compete in the Bowler Midwest Musclecar Challenge so I’m hoping it won’t get cancelled but we’ll see!

[ScotI]

While I get the factory vs. aftermarket topic, when there's so much material replaced it's a coin toss. It really depends on a lot of factors to make the decision that best fits each situation.

[Kcrain]

I would think knowing I have a real 67 nova and title would mean a lot to me.

[Beechy]

[QUOTE]
The pics below give you an idea of what it looked like when they got it (top) vs when they were done with it (bottom). No difference to someone who doesn’t know what to look for but big difference in the way things fit. Hope that helps and thanks for tuning in[QUOTE]

You sure got a bargain from the bodyshop! Prolly helped that u thought thru the process and tacked everything first. Best thing u ever did was replacing the A-pillars intact......strength-wise they're prolly the single most important piece in a body-in-white...along with the C-pillars.
The difference in the two pics is evident....MUCH sweeter in the final version. It helps that the bodyshop has two or three guys eyeballing and adjusting on the job.

FWIW......I'm with Kcrain.

Stay safe.

[Gmachine1911]

While I get the factory vs. aftermarket topic, when there's so much material replaced it's a coin toss. It really depends on a lot of factors to make the decision that best fits each situation.

For sure, everyone has a different “tolerance” to the pain and different priorities.

I would think knowing I have a real 67 nova and title would mean a lot to me.

[QUOTE]
You sure got a bargain from the bodyshop! Prolly helped that u thought thru the process and tacked everything first. Best thing u ever did was replacing the A-pillars intact......strength-wise they're prolly the single most important piece in a body-in-white...along with the C-pillars.
The difference in the two pics is evident....MUCH sweeter in the final version. It helps that the bodyshop has two or three guys eyeballing and adjusting on the job.

FWIW......I'm with Kcrain.

Stay safe.

Kcrain/Beechy - Having a title and VIN tag was definitely one of my requirements. I know what I spent on my Camaro (which didn’t require a repaint) and while I’m no expert, I have to believe that when insuring, or especially selling a car like this one will be, it has to count for something that it was originally produced by GM in 1967. In terms of insuring it, would it be “fair” to assign the same value to two cars of equal build quality when one was an original with a VIN tag and title and one was a reproduction with a made-up serial number? Would the reproduction car even be considered a 67 Nova by the insurance company?? I don’t know, never asked, but it’d be interesting to learn about. For some, it may not matter but I can tell you if I were buying a finished product, the purchase price would be far less for a reproduction despite having the same parts, simply because it’s a reproduction.

At the end of the day, with all that being said, I could care less what anybody else does as it truly is a personal decision. But for me if I knew going into it that the cost was the same or even a little more, I’d still opt for the real thing if possible and if not, then I’d probably find a different car.

[Jay Hilliard]

Excellent work and glad you decided to save one. Really enjoyed going through this thread and keep us posted with updates.

[Gmachine1911]

Will do for sure and thank you!

[Gmachine1911]

So, got my DSE Quadralink and Ford 9” today for the Nova. Super excited to get started on the install. This will be my first venture with a 9” but before pulling the trigger, I spent some time on the phone with GearFX and got some education. I was worried about gear whine based on some threads I’ve seen but I really wanted to switch it up a little on this car vs my Camaro and after talking thru stuff with them, I had a good comfort level. Those guys are super great and spent the time talking me thru options, etc. so I’m confident all will be well. Since this isn’t a crazy HP build I went with the S series center section and 3.70 gears knowing I can always change it later if needed.

I’ve also been stockpiling some odds and ends to mock up the brake and fuel systems while it’s on the rotisserie. I think that’ll be a time and energy saver.

I’m so ready to see this thing sitting on the ground but still have a ways to go...Thanks for looking!

[bkswede]

Thanks for the update! Love what you’re doing with your build and really enjoy your detailed posts. Will be a big milestone to get it back on the ground with suspension under it. We will finally be done with paint on my ‘63 (except for bumpers and trim) this week, and suspension going back under it next week, as we start assembly. Makes a big difference when it starts to look like a car again!


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[Gmachine1911]

Thanks for the update! Love what you’re doing with your build and really enjoy your detailed posts. Will be a big milestone to get it back on the ground with suspension under it. We will finally be done with paint on my ‘63 (except for bumpers and trim) this week, and suspension going back under it next week, as we start assembly. Makes a big difference when it starts to look like a car again!


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Yes, indeed, looking forward to seeing it in one piece sitting on its suspension! Always looking for updates on your build, the paint looks amazing and you’ve got every reason to be proud! Can’t wait to see more pics as it comes together.

[Gmachine1911]

So got most of the Quadralink installed. Still some brackets and some welding to finish up but it’s a good start. Had a good helper as well who’s eager to learn some skills!

[Gmachine1911]

More progress today! I’m glad this is checked off the list. Just have the lower link brackets tacked in place so I’ll weld them in permanently once the rear end comes back out and clean up some welds on the underside of the car.

[bkswede]

Looks great!


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[sperger1]

More progress today! I’m glad this is checked off the list. Just have the lower link brackets tacked in place so I’ll weld them in permanently once the rear end comes back out and clean up some welds on the underside of the car.
How many hours to complete the DSE Quadralink install?

[Gmachine1911]

How many hours to complete the DSE Quadralink install?

I’d say I had a couple of days in it altogether. I welded the torque boxes welded in when I did the subframe connectors so that saved a little time during the Quadralink install.

[Gmachine1911]

So this thing of beauty showed up today for the Nova...

[WSSix]

LT1?

Keep up the great work!

[Gmachine1911]

Yes sir...Thank you!

[214Chevy]

Niiiiiice!!

[syborg tt]

So, got my DSE Quadralink and Ford 9” today for the Nova. Super excited to get started on the install. This will be my first venture with a 9” but before pulling the trigger, I spent some time on the phone with GearFX and got some education. I was worried about gear whine based on some threads I’ve seen but I really wanted to switch it up a little on this car vs my Camaro and after talking thru stuff with them, I had a good comfort level. Those guys are super great and spent the time talking me thru options, etc. so I’m confident all will be well. Since this isn’t a crazy HP build I went with the S series center section and 3.70 gears knowing I can always change it later if needed.

I’ve also been stockpiling some odds and ends to mock up the brake and fuel systems while it’s on the rotisserie. I think that’ll be a time and energy saver.

I’m so ready to see this thing sitting on the ground but still have a ways to go...Thanks for looking!


Is it wrong for me to say I like your rear end ???


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[jarhead]

Looks great Shane!

[Gmachine1911]

Is it wrong for me to say I like your rear end ???


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Lol!...Talk to Teddy Bear!:unibrow:

[Gmachine1911]

Looks great Shane!

Thank you, Joe!

[bkswede]

I like that you’re doing something different with the LT1... will be a great motor in the Nova! Does DSE have motor mounts now for the LT1 or are you using something like the adjustable Dingo mounts? Curious, too, what you’re thinking for headers? Ultimate Headers used to have several variations for Chevy IIs on their website, including an LT1 header for CBR subframes, but doesn’t show up anymore. Will be cool for sure! Are you going to do any mods to the motor or keep it stock?


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[Gmachine1911]

I like that you’re doing something different with the LT1... will be a great motor in the Nova! Does DSE have motor mounts now for the LT1 or are you using something like the adjustable Dingo mounts? Curious, too, what you’re thinking for headers? Ultimate Headers used to have several variations for Chevy IIs on their website, including an LT1 header for CBR subframes, but doesn’t show up anymore. Will be cool for sure! Are you going to do any mods to the motor or keep it stock?


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Thank you, I like the idea of something different as well. I’ve gotten a lot of inspiration from your build which is just outstanding, BTW. I’ve been trying to switch it up from my Camaro in a few ways, partly just for the sake of being different but also for getting some experience with different parts ie: auto vs T56, LT1 vs LS3, 9 inch vs 12 bolt, Z51 brakes instead of Baer 6 piston units, etc. I’m debating doing a completely stock looking interior with original steering wheel and maybe even a modified bench seat or, at most, some aftermarket front seats made to look original as well as redlines on the tires (if I can figure out how to get redlines vulcanized onto some modern tires in the sizes I want especially).

DSE doesn’t offer any engine mounts For the Chevy II but I’ve looked at the Dirty Dingo mounts and I may end up combining DSE’s first gen Camaro LT1 block plates with Dirty Dingo’s mounts for something non-sliding, however, I REALLY like the idea of keeping the factory oil cooler that came on the crate engine so I might go with the sliding mounts. It’s a compromise because the LT1’s have the high pressure fuel pump on the back of the engine that sticks out slightly while the oil pan with cooler might require the engine to go back to fit so I may end up recessing the firewall so I can have my cake and eat it too!

As far as headers, I looked at the Ultimate headers and only saw where they offered the exhaust flanges so I’ll have to figure that out. CBR’s website says they offer LT1 headers but you have to call for pricing so I’m gonna check that out. I’m entertaining using the factory shorty headers that came on the engine and cutting off the heat cover mounts and having them coated but that depends on if they’ll fit the front subframe.

I’ll probably only do a few cosmetic things to the motor. Since I’m not a very patient person and I wanna keep the build moving at a good pace and (most importantly) to continue cash-flowing it, I’m trying to keep it “simple” in some areas, especially since this thing will need a paint job...an expense my Camaro didn’t have. I’ve got other areas such as suspension, driveline, body/paint, wheels/tires and some creature comforts that I’m not willing to compromise on but at the same time, on stuff like headers, brakes, etc. that I could always upgrade later on, I felt like that was an area where I could have nice, functional components and upgrade later if I chose to but at least I could have a nice, running family cruiser sooner. These are all famous last words, of course!

[bkswede]

Thank you, I like the idea of something different as well. I’ve gotten a lot of inspiration from your build which is just outstanding, BTW. I’ve been trying to switch it up from my Camaro in a few ways, partly just for the sake of being different but also for getting some experience with different parts ie: auto vs T56, LT1 vs LS3, 9 inch vs 12 bolt, Z51 brakes instead of Baer 6 piston units, etc. I’m debating doing a completely stock looking interior with original steering wheel and maybe even a modified bench seat or, at most, some aftermarket front seats made to look original as well as redlines on the tires (if I can figure out how to get redlines vulcanized onto some modern tires in the sizes I want especially).

DSE doesn’t offer any engine mounts For the Chevy II but I’ve looked at the Dirty Dingo mounts and I may end up combining DSE’s first gen Camaro LT1 block plates with Dirty Dingo’s mounts for something non-sliding, however, I REALLY like the idea of keeping the factory oil cooler that came on the crate engine so I might go with the sliding mounts. It’s a compromise because the LT1’s have the high pressure fuel pump on the back of the engine that sticks out slightly while the oil pan with cooler might require the engine to go back to fit so I may end up recessing the firewall so I can have my cake and eat it too!

As far as headers, I looked at the Ultimate headers and only saw where they offered the exhaust flanges so I’ll have to figure that out. CBR’s website says they offer LT1 headers but you have to call for pricing so I’m gonna check that out. I’m entertaining using the factory shorty headers that came on the engine and cutting off the heat cover mounts and having them coated but that depends on if they’ll fit the front subframe.

I’ll probably only do a few cosmetic things to the motor. Since I’m not a very patient person and I wanna keep the build moving at a good pace and (most importantly) to continue cash-flowing it, I’m trying to keep it “simple” in some areas, especially since this thing will need a paint job...an expense my Camaro didn’t have. I’ve got other areas such as suspension, driveline, body/paint, wheels/tires and some creature comforts that I’m not willing to compromise on but at the same time, on stuff like headers, brakes, etc. that I could always upgrade later on, I felt like that was an area where I could have nice, functional components and upgrade later if I chose to but at least I could have a nice, running family cruiser sooner. These are all famous last words, of course!


Your plan makes a lot of sense based on your current goals/objectives! Not sure what you’re thinking for a radiator, but C&R builds a radiator for Chevy IIs that includes an integrated oil cooler (unless your crate LT-1 actually came with the factory oil cooler). I bet Ultimate still offers the LT-1 headers for CBR frames, you just need to call them. When I was looking for headers, I spoke with Jim, the owner of Ultimate Headers, and he was a great guy - very helpful and responsive. I’m really happy with the fit of their headers on mine - they don’t hang down too low and look awesome (and should flow really well with the 1 7/8” tubes). Look forward to more updates!

Brian


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[Gmachine1911]

Yeah, I’ve been looking at both C&R and PRC units with the integrated trans cooler. I’ve not found anything with both EOC and TOC for the Novas which makes sense given they’re relatively small radiators so I’ll do my best to maintain the factory EOC that came on the engine and just do the trans cooler in the radiator.

I spoke with Church Boys Racing about their LT1 headers and I intend to call Ultimate as well. I think Stainless Works makes the headers for CBR. I’ve ordered everything that I THINK I’ll need to get the engine mounted in the front clip. I ordered the Dirty Dingo sliders as well as some Billet Specialties adjustable mounts to see which ones I like/fit better. I also got some DSE LS frame stands and Prothane poly mounts and some ARP hardware so once it all arrives, I’ll be ready to play. Here’s what the DSE mounts and DD sliders look like. The DD mounts are bigger then I expected but the quality is very nice. I’ll definitely have to ditch the PCV system that hooks into the pass side of the LT1 oil pan in order for any motor mount to work but I have a feeling I may have to swap the pan before it’s all said and done...we’ll see!

Lastly, I got the car scheduled For the end of this month to go to the body shop and get bead blasted, put in epoxy primer and I’m gonna have them jam it out in single stage to get a feel for the color we chose so stay tuned!

[Gmachine1911]

Took some time to get the engine set into the front clip yesterday and thought I’d share some info for anybody planning to do a Gen V LT1 swap in a 66-67 Nova. Not much info out there that I’ve been able to find in the way of motor plates, mounts, etc. For reference, I’m using the DSE front clip, factory core support and DSE’s inner fenders on the car. The body’s off getting media blasted and put in epoxy so all of this was done just to get a feel for what I’d need to about the engine mount offset, headers, cooling package, cold air intake, etc. while it was easy to get to it from all angles and see what was not gonna fit. I’ll apologize in advance for the long post but trying to pack as much info in here as I can for the next guy!

Just for the sake of information, I’ll give a quick rundown on a few things that are pertinent in how the engine comes equipped. So the crate motor comes shipped with the Camaro exhaust manifolds, water pump setup and oil pan with integrated oil cooler. On the back of the water pump on the passenger side is a black plastic housing that is the engine oil separator for the PCV vent system. Part of that system is a steel drain tube that goes back to the passenger side of the oil pan and runs right “thru” the engine mount plate area. Since the water pump is offset completely to the passenger side of the engine and with the catch can on the back of it, you can imagine this creates some clearance issues. In short, the water pump and factory PCV catch can, drain and oil separator will have to be removed and another setup used due to the water pump outlet hitting the forward side of the passenger A-arm. Interestingly, pretty much all of the vehicles that come from the factory with the Gen V LT1 have electric steering so there’s no sourcing a “Camaro drive system” to complete the pkg as it wouldn’t give you any more then an alternator and an an AC compressor so you’ll need to either buy GM’s kit or one from any of the other usual places. I’m going with the Holley Mid-Mount system because it’s by far the most compact, tidy and well-engineered kits out there. I’ve got it on my 68 Camaro and it works flawlessly. What Holley does is utilize the same kit as the LS engines by giving you a water pump adapter and a throttle body plate to change the angle from the down (factory) to up like the LS motors to clear the accessories and water pump...remember, you’re going from an offset water pump to one that’s mounted in the center. Here’s some pics of the clearance issues on the factory water pump. You can see it won’t allow the pump to bolt on all the way.

The next issue I ran into was the factory Camaro exhaust manifolds, the driver side actually bolts up and fits quite well leaving what appears to be enough room for the steering shaft but the passenger side has too much interference with the area where the front clip bolts to the body. The square exhaust flange is hits the frame rail and even if it were trimmed down, the outlet is in such a place that short of cutting an expensive subframe, you’d never be able to plumb the system. DSE doesn’t currently offer headers for the LT1 but my plan is go with Church Boys as they offer a long tube setup. Here’s a few pics but I know it might be difficult to make anything out of them.

In the pic above, on the passenger side, you can see the steel tube with the yellow tape on the end...that’s the PCV drain tube that goes to the oil pan. I’d tried to remove it while it was still on the wooden crate but they filled the engine with oil oddly enough so it was draining out and I couldn’t get to the drain plug because of the crate and I also couldn’t get the motor mount plates attached because of the tube so I just turned it around for now to get it out of the way. You wouldn’t thing you’d need a drain that large for a PCV system.

Anyway, onto the oil pan. I love the oil pan on this thing. It includes an oil to water cooler that’s attached to the driver side of the pan with a steel line that plugs into the factory water pump and another one that would get routed to the radiator or radiator hose. I was really hoping to keep this setup in tact despite not using the factory water pump. I’m happy to report that the oil pan will clear the DSE crossmember easily (at least with the mounts in their current position) and it appears to have decent ground clearance but I won’t know for sure until I get everything in the car. The Holley swap pan does have a lower profile and has the cooler fittings (just not the cooler) so I may have to change it at a later date but for now I’m letting it ride. It’s hard to distinguish in the pic below but you can see there’s about 2” of clearance from the front of the sump to the back of the crossmember.


For the engine mounts, I wasn’t sure what I’d need so I bought a few different ones including the Dirty Dingo sliders.The DD mounts are made quite well but I wasn’t crazy about having an adjustable mount and all the extra hardware “clutter” that comes with it. The mounts I tried first were the Billet Specialties pn: 11630. These mounts have multiple bolt locations that allow you to have the engine in a neutral position as well as move it three different positions rearward. They use a standard GM 3-bolt motor mount sold separately and were only approx $55 for the plates. The position I used was the third bolt hole back from the front on the top bolt, whatever that was. I looked like it’d put the front of the sump back far enough from the crossmember while not putting the back of the motor too far rearward. These engines have a high pressure fuel pump that’s camshaft driven that boosts the fuel pump pressure to over 2,100 psi before it’s directly injected into the cylinders adjacent from the spark plugs. So in addition to being mindful of the forward placement, you need to watch the rearward placement to maintain clearance from the high pressure pump to the firewall. I won’t know for sure until I put everything on the body but the initial place,ent I think will be spot on...if not, I have enough room for the sump that I can move it forward buteven now, things will be very tight up front by the time i add a radiator and fans and the cold air intake tube so I need to keep it tight to the firewall. I may end up recessing a pocket in the firewall just to keep the engine to the back for that reason along with weight distribution. Here’s some pics to see where it’s oriented in relation to the support bars and frame mounts which would give you an idea of where the firewall would be.



For the frame stands, I just ordered upa pair of DSE’s LS frame mounts andI used Prothane poly motor mounts with the 2 5/8” spread between the ears and 1 3/4” tall (pn: 7-504-BL). I found a perfect original GM flat hood for a great price that I’m gonna be running and the top of the intake sits 3.5” below the tops of the fenders so I’ve got plenty of room. In the last pics above, you can see the high pressure pump sticking off the back. In reality the actual pump housing only sticks out 1” from the bell housing flange, the rest is a foam sound insulator that can be trimmed down.

I think that about covers it for now. Since I suck at inserting the pictures within the text here, they’re all piled up at the bottom but you get the idea!

Thanks for looking!

[Gmachine1911]

Here’s some more random pics...I’m liking the clean looks of the LT sitting in there. Been thinking of putting some of the engine covers on it and maybe 3D printing some “Chevy II” lettering and milling off off the Corvette lettering. Not sure...

[Gmachine1911]

Well, it’s finally one color...Even if it is primer! It’s come a long way but still a long way to go! I put some pics at the bottom just to show what it looked like when we picked it up last year...

[Sonar Chief]

Great job Shane :) It does look good in one color even epoxy primer :goggles:

[bkswede]

Looks fantastic! Feels like real progress when you see it all one color, even if only primer. Have been meaning to respond to your post from last week - I really like how clean that LT1 looks mocked up in the subframe! I also was going to mention that I noticed that Speed Tech came out with an Extreme front subframe for Chevy IIs, and they have LT and LS motor mount options for it. Not sure whether it’s something that could work for your LT1 (including, possibly, headers), but thought I would pass along the info. Looks awesome..

Brian


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[64G-lark]

I have been watching your build for a while Shane. Its hard to believe that's the same car you started with. Your fabrication skills are amazing. The LT1 is a great engine but the swap components are still a challenge to figure out. Looks like you are getting it figured out. My guess is the the headers will be the biggest challenge. Other than the flange at the head being different from the LS are ports in the same place?

[Gmachine1911]

Great job Shane :) It does look good in one color even epoxy primer :goggles:

Thank you, Sonar Chief...one of these days it’ll be as far along as your Camaro! You’re doing great work!


Looks fantastic! Feels like real progress when you see it all one color, even if only primer. Have been meaning to respond to your post from last week - I really like how clean that LT1 looks mocked up in the subframe! I also was going to mention that I noticed that Speed Tech came out with an Extreme front subframe for Chevy IIs, and they have LT and LS motor mount options for it. Not sure whether it’s something that could work for your LT1 (including, possibly, headers), but thought I would pass along the info. Looks awesome..

Brian


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Hey Brian, thanks for the heads up! I had actually called SpeedTech before buying a front clip just to see what they had to offer as an option. They wouldn’t say much except that they had something in development. Sounds like they beat Holley to the punch with a complete suite of LT1 components for Second Gen Novas!

It’s funny how you have goals in your head that are milestones. I always tell myself I’ll be content upon reaching the next one but yet find myself chasing the one after about as quickly as I reach the one before. Now that it’s one color, I really wanna see it off the rotisserie and sitting on its own suspension!


I have been watching your build for a while Shane. Its hard to believe that's the same car you started with. You fabrication skills are amazing. The LT1 is a great engine but the swap components are still a challenge to figure out. Looks like you are getting it figured out. My guess is the the headers will be the biggest challenge. Other than the flange at the head being different from the LS are ports in the same place?

Mark, thank you for the compliments, it’s definitely changed a lot in the last 15 months. The engine has been a bit of an unknown for sure but oddly enough, one of the biggest challenges at this point is getting the AC vents figured out. There’s no good spot to put the vents so it’s gonna take some effort (more to come on that). As far as the port design, the intake ports have been raised to accommodate the direct injection but I’m not sure if the exhaust ports have been raised. There’s basically nothing that’ll interchange between the LS and LT engines so it does make for some unknowns, however, they’re similar enough in their physical dimensions that it’s not totally unpredictable. I think at the end of the day I’ll have at least two and, thanks to bkswede for the SpeedTech tip, sounds like three choices in headers so I’m hoping to find one that meets my needs. Thanks for tuning in!

[64G-lark]

Shane the reason I asked about the similarities between the LT1 vs LS1 Header is Speedway Motors has LS Headers cheap for the 62-67 Nova with their sub frame if it’s just a matter of changing the flanges. They are on close out for less than half price. They have 1 7/8” primary tubes , O2 bungs and good clearance for the steering shaft. They are not stainless but at this price you can modify them and have them coated. I have a set that I changed the collectors to V-band style and had coated. They only have a few pairs, I can tell you that story another day. Let’s just say I’m the reason they have them. Here’s a link.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/G-Comp-1962-67-Chevy-II-Nova-LS-V8-Headers-Plain-Finish,205590.html

If you need any dimensions I can help.

[Gmachine1911]

Shane the reason I asked about the similarities between the LT1 vs LS1 Header is Speedway Motors has LS Headers cheap for the 62-67 Nova with their sub frame if it’s just a matter of changing the flanges. They are on close out for less than half price. They have 1 7/8” primary tubes , O2 bungs and good clearance for the steering shaft. They are not stainless but at this price you can modify them and have them coated. I have a set that I changed the collectors to V-band style and had coated. They only have a few pairs, I can tell you that story another day. Let’s just say I’m the reason they have them. Here’s a link.

https://www.speedwaymotors.com/G-Comp-1962-67-Chevy-II-Nova-LS-V8-Headers-Plain-Finish,205590.html

If you need any dimensions I can help.

Oh, cool, good information...I’ll check it out. The price is inexpensive for sure! Sounds like you were part of the development?

[64G-lark]

Not part of any development LOL. See post 22 in my build thread. After spending a decent amount of money on their products and originally being told they were on backorder, only to find out they were discontinuing production I was not a happy camper. I pushed them to have some more made.

[Gmachine1911]

So, once the blasting and epoxy was complete, the plan was to bring it home and get the dash AC vents figured out, attach the drive by wire throttle pedal mount, fabricate the AC evaporator mounting brackets and get the firewall and dash ready for paint - basically, complete all welding on the dash and firewall so they could be painted. Since the body shop already had the car and since I wasn’t super happy with my patch job on the heater motor hole and since I also didn’t feel I had the skills to do the AC vents to the level they needed to be, I went ahead and had them handle those items for me. This will save some back and forth, give me a real boost on getting the car back to a rolling chassis faster and the quality will be much better, especially on the firewall and dash work.

I was really torn about what to do with the dash vent situation. I knew I didn’t like the look of the under-dash mounting that comes with the VA evap kit and I’ve seen other threads where oval vents were used on 67’s but my dash, for whatever reason, didn’t have the same available space between the raised areas for the switches and the sides of the dash (on the driver side). It’s frustrating and I searched high and low for a small vent that had a diameter that’d fit within the flat area of the lower dash. The only thing I could find were The “Nano vents” from Restomod Air. They use a small hole about 1.62” and the finished diameter of the vent is not much bigger then the switch bezels. They would definitely fit, however, they use a 1.5” diameter duct hose or an adapter to fit Restomod’s standard 2” duct hose. Vintage Air uses 2.5” hose as standard. I didn’t feel I could “shrink” the Vintage Air hoses down effectively 1/2” without making them leak and I was also afraid that these small vents would whistle when the airflow was on high which would be annoying. I was also concerned about the look of such a small vent and it’s ability to provide enough airflow as air will always take the path of least resistance unless you direct it completely (hence the possibility of leaking and/or whistling). Anyway, on top of all that, the vents are $185 each so I’d have about $800 in parts that I might not be happy with at the end of the day. So long story short, since I’ll have to look at this dash for a while, I opted to go the more expensive route and get the dash modified to accept a standard size (2.5” hole) vent. I think this will provide the best finished product and be the most functional at the end of the day. It was necessary to fill the ash tray location but I think it cleans up the dash nicely and to those who aren’t familiar with the dash of a Second Gen Nova, it may not even be noticeable.

Now that the metal work is complete, they’ll do the body work on the dash and firewall and apply some paint. When it comes home, I can finish some detail work, apply the bedliner, get the brake and fuel lines bent, and get the car off the rotisserie and get the front and rear suspension back under it and ready to move to the next stage. Anyway, here’s some progress pics

This is the firewall with all the holes filled. The fuse panel hole was relocated behind the inner fender and enlarged for the AAW harness that’ll be going in. The did a great job getting the passenger area super flat and smooth. The area around the steering column will be body-worked leaving an indention of the original hole...I like the shape of the firewall and wanted to keep as much of the character as possible

[Gmachine1911]

Here’s the DSE wiper motor mocked up to help position the evaporator. DSE’s instructions say to remove/close off the upper ducts from the evap due to interference with the wiper linkage - definitely Not an option!

[Gmachine1911]

Once the evap unit was relocated, we put attachment studs on the inside of the cowl area and firewall so nothing is seen from the outside. I hate putting screws into stuff that can leak, strip and look like crap. We test fitted to be sure to leave room for the duct hoses and I have enough room to mount the LT1 ECM in there as well.

[Gmachine1911]

Here’s after the ash tray was filled in and the vent locations were laid out with pilot holes. I wanted to keep a somewhat stock-appearing AC/heater control because it’s not my intention to completely redesign the dash. The GM designers did a great job in 67 in my opinion-I just want to add a bit of modern to it

[Gmachine1911]

Finally, here’s the dash after vent holes were added. They blend in quite well to the bottom side of the dash due to the naturally downward angle.

[64G-lark]

Dash looks great Shane. I like the vent locations. Did they make them from scratch or did you have something to start with?

[Gmachine1911]

Dash looks great Shane. I like the vent locations. Did they make them from scratch or did you have something to start with?

Thanks, man! I’m very happy with everything. They were made from scratch, each made out of two pieces.

[bkswede]

Looks great Shane - you made the right choice to modify the dash - will look so much better when it is finished. I, too, struggled with what to do with the vents and ended up doing something similar. Firewall looks awesome, too!


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[Gmachine1911]

I got the Nova back from the body shop today. Excited about how it turned out. I’m ready to get movin’ on this thing. I was playing around with some green tape to map out the fuel and brake line routing. I also wanted to see what the dash was gonna look like with some of the pretty stuff on it so I played with that a little. Up next is to seam seal the bottom, scuff it down and paint it then get the bedliner sprayed on. I can also get the battery mount and fuel tank vent mocked up. I plan to make a bulkhead to separate the trunk and back seat areas and I can get some of the interior stuff put together since the interior’s been painted. Here’s some pics...

[jarhead]

WOW, that looks nice Shane!

[Gmachine1911]

A little update...Got the underside bedlined, brake and fuel lines bent, started on the Dynamat in a few areas while it was easier being on the rotisserie. Then got the Quadralink reinstalled, got the the body off the rotisserie, subframe mounted and temporarily hung the front sheet metal to see how it looked in the shape of a car! Here’s some pics...thanks for looking!

[camcojb]

VERY nice, congrats on the progress!!

[syborg tt]

Shane the car looks great and I am looking forward to more progress pictures.

[jarhead]

WOW, moving along quick!

[bkswede]

Nice progress - looks great!


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[bkswede]

Nice progress - looks great!


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[64G-lark]

Looking good Shane. What transmission are you using? It didn’t appear your tunnel was raised or enlarged.

[Gmachine1911]

Thank you! I’m planning on running a 4L65E. I wanted to avoid modding the trans tunnel and therefore having to raise the driveshaft tunnel.

[Gmachine1911]

Well, been a minute since I’ve posted any updates on the Nova. I took a break to do some home projects, rewired my Dad’s street rod and bought an enclosed trailer where my OCD kicked in as I was building out the interior. I was a little burned out on the car after getting it to roller status but now I’m fired up again and ready to make some progress. I started by getting the remaining few trim items I needed as well as the bumpers, hood, headlight buckets, bumper brackets, etc. to complete the front end. It’s scheduled to go to the body shop to get the front sheet metal fitted at the end of this month. Lots more to come so stay tuned. In the meantime, here’s a few pics…

GM NOS headlight bezels I scored…77065

77066


Got the transmission in today as well…4L70E

[Roscoe03]

Glad to see you back in action! I've been wondering what happened to your build as you seem to make a lot of progress quickly. Your build threads are killer!

[Gmachine1911]

Glad to see you back in action! I've been wondering what happened to your build as you seem to make a lot of progress quickly. Your build threads are killer!

Thank you, I appreciate that! It feels good to be back at it!

[Gmachine1911]

Here’s some pics of the front brake lines, battery mount, fuel tank vent and battery shutoff I got done as well…trying to get everything situated that’ll allow me to set the engine/trans in the car as well as get the front sheet metal stuck back on it so I can transport it easier to the body shop. Also wanting to get some of the components situated so I can get other smaller items done around them as well. Thought I had everything necessary to mount my steering column until I figured out the swinging pedal assembly I bought a long time ago was for a 66, not a 67…turns out there’s a big difference so got one located and waiting on it to show up but it set me back about a week on my timeline…guess I should’ve done a test fit a long time ago!

[camcojb]

Very clean, nice!! :thumbsup:

[Gmachine1911]

So I had a little snag in that the swinging pedal assembly I bought a long time ago was actually for a 66 Nova and as it turns out, they don’t interchange with 67’s so I got the correct bracket, got it cleaned, swapped the brake pedal over with all new stuff and was finally able to get my steering column halfway installed to determine where to drill the hole for the column to go thru the firewall. Worked up the nerve to drill the hole after experimenting with a couple different methods and got that checked off the list. Also got the AC bulkheads mounted to the firewall and mocked up on the inner fender and then shifted my attention to the transmission. Got the torque converter installed and verified it was seated properly and noticed that the bellhousing must be for an LS based engine as the 12 o clock bolt hole and the one to the right of it are in the wrong spot. This sucks cause I specifically called to ask the company if I needed to buy the LT bellhousing and they said it was already on the part number trans I was looking at. It bolts up fine everywhere else except the 2 positions but I guess I’m gonna have to pull it back apart and swap the bellhousing. This business of having to order and wait on parts to make progress is getting old, especially when you think you’ve got everything you need. If anyone has any insight as to the differences between the two bellhousings (besides the two bolt holes) I’d like to hear it. Here’s some pics…Also, for anyone else having trouble identifying 1st/2nd Gen Nova pedal brackets, the guy I bought the correct one from sent me a pic of the three early types…the left one is 62-65 I think, middle is 66 and right is 67.

[camcojb]

VERY nice attention to detail! :thumbsup:

[Gmachine1911]

Finally, got the engine and transmission in today! Been looking forward to this for some time now but it wasn’t without some challenges. Sorry for the lengthy post but I would’ve died to have this info when I got started but there’s basically little to nothing out there for this scenario, so here’s a few things of note for those wanting to swap a GenV LT1 into a Second Gen Nova.

First, the factory Camaro oil pan with integrated oil cooler did fit when I mocked it up in the subframe before the subframe was installed on the car, however, once you attach the transmission and account for working within the confines of the firewall, you can’t fit the engine/trans assembly in the car due to contact with the firewall before the oil pan sump clears the crossmember. One thing I did not try was removing the transmission and installing the engine and trans separately…I didn’t want that kind of hassle. I was pretty bummed about this in particular because I was really hoping to utilize the factory engine oil cooler setup. I also wasn’t wanting to spend $500 on a new oil pan.

Speaking of oil pans, there’s a limited number of “swap” oil pans currently made for the GenV motors and really only one cast oil pan like the factory uses (what I wanted) which is Holley’s 302-20. This is the first Holley swap pan I’ve used (I used a Mast Motorsports pan on my Camaro) and I’m not very happy about a couple of specific items you have to deal with to make it work. The first being that I had to”open up” one of the windage tray hole that’s shared with the oil pickup tube hold down in order to get the bolt in without binding up the pickup tube. For the cost of this pan, you should never have to deal with that. The second thing that pisses me off on principle alone is that nowhere in my research of the Holley 302-20 oil pan and nowhere in their bullet points of features on their website does it mention that they moved the dipstick location from the passenger side (where the factory put it) to the driver side. This means that you have more crap to deal with on what’s already the more crowded side of the engine but it also means that your $450 oil pan is now a $550 oil pan once you buy the necessary and recommended GM dipstick and tube since the nice new one you got with your crate motor is worthless as it’s bent in all the wrong ways. But never fear, Holley gave you a worthless hole to plug on the passenger side in place of the dipstick boss. Ok, rant is over.

Even with the Holley oil pan which has a 2” shorter (front to back) sump then the Camaro pan, I still had to remove the motor mounts in order to have enough room to get the motor as low as possible so it could go back towards the firewall enough to get the engine all the way in. Putting the motor mounts back on was really tight but manageable. I think if the wiper motor mounting area didn’t protrude out as far out as it does, this wouldn’t be such an issue.

So anyway, that’s what I can tell you for sure at this point but now that it’s in there, there’s actually sufficient room on the backside, even with the factory high pressure fuel pump that sits on the back of the engine. As a side note, you have to pull the crank pulley to get the oil pan off and I’d like to send a homemade bomb to the guy who made the decision to put thread locker on the crank pulley bolt and use a team of wild elephants to torque it down. Thanks for looking!

[camcojb]

Thanks for the feedback and update. :thumbsup:

[Gmachine1911]

Happy Halloween! Haven’t updated here in a minute so figured I’d post up some pics. I last left off getting the car ready to haul into the body shop for fitting the front sheet metal/trim, etc. I was thrashing to get as much of the front end components together as possible so had the inner fenders and hood hinge supports powder coated as well as some misc items. Got my HVAC lines planned out and roughed in even though they’d have to come back off. Also got the transmission installed with CBR’s trans crossmember, which bolted right up (thank you, Jesus). I took the car to the body shop back in mid Feb and they’ve had it ever since. I’ve made a few changes along the way and then the usual delays from pausing to work on other cars. It should be ready to come home next week finally! Here’s some random pics and thanks for looking!

p.s. my oldest was rubbing it in that he was technically the first to “drive” the Nova. I find myself arguing a lot of technicalities with my teenagers these days!

[Gmachine1911]

While the car’s been in the shop, I’ve been stockpiling parts. I’ve got basically everything needed to complete the brakes, HVAC, fuel system, chassis and engine wiring, wheels/tires, cooling system, transmission cooling lines and shifter, accessory drive, etc. I had them fit the front windshield/trim, headlight bezels grill and bumpers. Ended up buying a couple different core supports to get one that fit decent and had to modify the new hood where the hinge bolts up on one side because it was made like crap. At one point we even stuck the GM hood back on I bought that turned out to be garbage. Also had to cut the headlight bucket mounting brackets off both new fenders and reattach them in the proper location so things fit right. Up to this point, I’d had pretty good fortune with the repop metal but it all caught up to me on the front end! It’s mo better now, though…

[Gmachine1911]

While all the hustle and bustle of fitting the sheet metal was happening, I was looking at all that wiring that needed to be crammed under the dash for the engine wiring (as well as the size of the GenV LT ECM) and borrowed an idea I’d seen on another Nova build and decided to go ahead and have them modify the firewall for some electrical bulkhead connectors. I don’t care for the way the GM harness is arranged as it’s intended to be mounted in the engine bay. My plan is to unwrap it, separate the connectors according to which side of the firewall I need them and section the harness using the bulkhead connectors and re-wrap it with a nicer woven fabric wrap that’s less bulky. Not exactly my idea of a low stress situation but it’ll yield the best result and I knew it was now or never. A guy can really geek out on all the heat shrink boots, connectors, tools, etc. with that stuff. Learned more then I even knew existed about auto sport wiring harnesses in doing my research. It’s truly an art form in itself. Anyway, here’s some pics of the firewall mods…

[DWC]

Looks great. Can't wait to see color on this one. Those Forgelines are going to look sharp!

Daniel

[camcojb]

Great job!!

[WSSix]

Nice work! I like the frenched in Deutsch connectors on the firewall.

[Ketzer]

Where did you source your connectors from?



Jeff-

[Gmachine1911]

I sourced everything from WireCare.com.

[Jimbo1367]

Wire are is a great supplier. You need to search all of what they have to offer. I used the F6 wrap & slit wrap. great stuff

[Gmachine1911]

Wire are is a great supplier. You need to search all of what they have to offer. I used the F6 wrap & slit wrap. great stuff

Yeah, for sure. I was like a kid in a candy store, especially with the heat shrink boots…lots of cool stuff!

[Gmachine1911]

Picked up the Nova today. Excited to be able to get some stuff done before it goes back in for final paint in February. Need to get all the trim and door guts mocked up just to be sure I don’t have any fitment issues and then hopefully on to some the fun stuff! Stay tuned…

[Gmachine1911]

Finally had some time to dedicate to working in the garage. Wanted to get the Holley accessory drive installed so I could see what needed to be done to get the radiator to fit. I knew it was gonna be extremely close but ended up having to remove the fans from the Entropy radiator. Their fans are huge both in physical size and output but I’ll need to find some lower profile units to get the clearance I need.

I managed to get the front/rear brakes installed and after that, I couldn’t resist sticking the wheels on there. I knew the rears would be a pain to install given the quarter panel shape and it didn’t disappoint…between the brakes, fat tires and lack of suspension sag, if I ever get a flat tire, I’m gonna be in it deep!

Anyway, thanks for looking and Happy Thanksgiving!

[Roscoe03]

Looks killer with those wheels! Happy Thanksgiving.

[Jimbo1367]

I agree. Looks killer. I really dig the wheels.

[syborg tt]

Car looks killer.

I ended up making a wiring specific tool box and wow does it help. Since all the tools are fairly light you won’t need a heavy duty box.

And yes I spent hundreds and hundreds of dollars at wire care.com.

If you have spare time when the car is at the body shop look up Ryan from Rywire as he does some amazing stuff.

Also get yourself a Dymo label printer and printable heat shrink tubing and clear to protect it. It has saved me hours of time as I know what every wire in my car is.


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