396 BB cooling question.

[67_camaroRS]

67 Camaro running a 396 BB with high performance cam and intake, etc. Whats a normal operating temperature for these engines? in a 90 degree day the engine gets to 210 degrees after running for 30 minutes. is that right? or is it over heating ? I got a high performance water pump, 4 row radiator, and a electric fan supporting the stock cooling fan.

[Musclerodz]

its not out of line to see 210 on the gauge, but you need to check a few things like timing, what temp thermostat, what size electric fan, where your reading your temp from. The mechanical fan is really not going to work properly without a shroud so I would toss it.

I put a restrictor in the bypass of the zz502 we just did a bunch of work on, and it runs ice cold. has a becool rad with flexlite fan module, was running 160 coming home from goodguys on the highway.

[DT69Cam]

67 Camaro running a 396 BB with high performance cam and intake, etc. Whats a normal operating temperature for these engines? in a 90 degree day the engine gets to 210 degrees after running for 30 minutes. is that right? or is it over heating ? I got a high performance water pump, 4 row radiator, and a electric fan supporting the stock cooling fan.

Mine runs 175 most of the time. Never see 210. I have a BB 3 core rad with stock clutch fan set-up. I'm using a 160 thermostat

[Vegas69]

I wouldn't be concerned about damage at 210. That's about where you start to have issues with heat soak and modern gas however.

I'm assuming the 210 is in stop and go traffic? I'd go manual OR electric. I've read on the Chenille forums that a stock GM clutch and shroud work pretty well in stop and go traffic. You will give up some performance with a clutch fan.

[GregWeld]

67 Camaro running a 396 BB with high performance cam and intake, etc. Whats a normal operating temperature for these engines? in a 90 degree day the engine gets to 210 degrees after running for 30 minutes. is that right? or is it over heating ? I got a high performance water pump, 4 row radiator, and a electric fan supporting the stock cooling fan.



Mike at MuscleRodz is correct with his very important question..... where is the temp sender located in the engine. Is it in the head? The block? Near the thermostat etc.

If you're running an electric with a mechanical fan -- then I'm going to assume you're running a "pusher" electric mounted ahead of the radiator (front of the car).... that will restrict airflow that the mechanical fan will need at idle.... You don't need ANY fan running down the road.... you need cooling when you're not moving or are going slowly in stop and go traffic etc.... so blocking the radiator in any way can have consequences to your temperatures.

You didn't say if you're running A/C -- as that will also add to your temps...

The critical part of "cooling" is not so much where it's running --- but whether or not the temp is under control -- i.e., it starts to come down immediately when you start moving -- and whether it goes to a point (in your case 210*) and doesn't continue to climb!

Where does it run (temp wise) going down the highway?

What's your initial timing set at?

What's your total timing?

What trans? If it's an automatic - do the cooling lines run into your radiator?

How many blades on the mechanical fan? Is it clutch controlled? How close are the actual blades to the radiator? Is there a shroud around it?

What temp is your thermostat??

What is the temp drop from inlet to outlet in degrees?

[67_camaroRS]

Mike at MuscleRodz is correct with his very important question..... where is the temp sender located in the engine. Is it in the head? The block? Near the thermostat etc.

If you're running an electric with a mechanical fan -- then I'm going to assume you're running a "pusher" electric mounted ahead of the radiator (front of the car).... that will restrict airflow that the mechanical fan will need at idle.... You don't need ANY fan running down the road.... you need cooling when you're not moving or are going slowly in stop and go traffic etc.... so blocking the radiator in any way can have consequences to your temperatures.

You didn't say if you're running A/C -- as that will also add to your temps...

The critical part of "cooling" is not so much where it's running --- but whether or not the temp is under control -- i.e., it starts to come down immediately when you start moving -- and whether it goes to a point (in your case 210*) and doesn't continue to climb!

Where does it run (temp wise) going down the highway?

What's your initial timing set at?

What's your total timing?

What trans? If it's an automatic - do the cooling lines run into your radiator?

How many blades on the mechanical fan? Is it clutch controlled? How close are the actual blades to the radiator? Is there a shroud around it?

What temp is your thermostat??

What is the temp drop from inlet to outlet in degrees?

Thanks guys for the input. Greg. Yes i do have a pusher fan mounted but i am going to take it off soon(i rarely turn it on.) . I do not have A/C. Temp on the street is about 210 on highway is 200. Auto trans turbo 400 yes i have cooling lines from trans to rad. 6 blades its not clutch controlled, not sure how close it is to the rad, and yes i have a stock shroud. Thermostat is at 180. Timing on the engine i know little. When i posted this thread the car wasnt timed correctly. I just had the car tuned and timed today though. and i believe the total timing is set at 36 degrees. oh and the temp sender is on the heads, though my friend told me that the headers may raise the temp on the sender. Thanks Albert

[57vette]

Thanks guys for the input. Greg. Yes i do have a pusher fan mounted but i am going to take it off soon(i rarely turn it on.) . I do not have A/C. Temp on the street is about 210 on highway is 200. Auto trans turbo 400 yes i have cooling lines from trans to rad. 6 blades its not clutch controlled, not sure how close it is to the rad, and yes i have a stock shroud. Thermostat is at 180. Timing on the engine i know little. When i posted this thread the car wasnt timed correctly. I just had the car tuned and timed today though. and i believe the total timing is set at 36 degrees. oh and the temp sender is on the heads, though my friend told me that the headers may raise the temp on the sender. Thanks Albert

Hey Albert... Curious to hear how you have made out since you last posted. I have a 461(454) in my 69 Camaro that heats up to 210-220 in stop & go traffic but runs a nice 175-180 almost all the time as long as I'm moving LOL. I have a 4-core radiator, stock shroud, stock mechanical fan, no clutch. Like you, my car probably needs a few tweaks including timing and maybe some carb work. But I'm guessing that pusher fan is probably a good part of the problem.

Still debating whether to go electric fan in the future because even in stop & go the fan is moving at a constant rate whereas the belt-driven fan is only moving at idle speed.-Mike