Build steps, order??

[HIFLYR]

Guys I am finally ready to start building my 69 FB Conv. I want to learn from guys who have already completed a complete frame off. The car is ready for body work and it is minimal. I am going with a LS 525/Auto crate with either a Ridetech level 2 or Speed tech Pro touring sub and rear system. To take advantage of the warranty on the crate motor would you send the car to body shop to get the lions share of panel fitment and body work done and then bring it back for wiring and engine and trans install and start up? Or, put engine and trans in and then send to body work and paint? Then bring it back for interior? Probably over thinking this but would rather learn from others who have already been through this.
Thanks,

[Rod P]

personally, set your budget, for what your going to do with the car, build the car completely! (running) sans interior then blow the car apart and paint it, get it home reassemble , now build the interior and ICE and then drive and enjoy

1) budget in reality, such as new subframe what are the supporting cost? like headers to fit that frame, does it require a special oil pan and pick up and so on

2) build to fit your objective daily driver that only sees the track once or twice a year, doesn't really need another 2300 bucks in the budget for mini tubes and 12 wide rollers

3) build the car and start .... make it run!!

4) then pick paint and interior, because the car now runs you will want to get this part done quicker now! and you will stay on top of it more

5) keep the build to under 2 years to stay relevant, paint colors, rims, tires, seating, and engine upgrades change every few years

[HIFLYR]

Rod,
Thanks, I am more of a traditional guy so the car will be "i know boring to some" A AMG silver, slightly lowered stance, no mini tubs or major body mods nice interior but nothing radical. While it is not a daily driver I drive my cars I did route 66 to Santa Monica and back in my stock 68 Camaro Conv in 2008. That is why I am going for the updated drive train and while the 525 ls is not required it is something I simply want.
Thanks for the ideas.

[GregWeld]

A guy could write a book on all the steps - forward and backward - there is to building a car.... and "it all depends" is in order here. Because it does all depend...

You wanting to just build a nice driver quality car? Or do you want a show quality paint and fit and finish?

Your warranty is going to start day of purchase.... why have the clock ticking while it sits in some filthy body shop?

Do you want to change OTHER THINGS about the car? Trans tunnel going to work in stock form for your combo? Minimal body work means what? That you know what the floors are like when they're free from dirt and undercoating?? You've seen the panels and they're not full of bondo and bad bodywork? I'm not being a smart ass here..... I'm merely suggesting that MANY A GUY HERE has "thought" there was little to do on their beautifully painted car -- only to find the nasty truth out. It's a HUGE OUCH and we've all been hit by it.

The reason I ask about driver vs show ------ do you want the wiring hidden? The various fluid handling lines? You want them stainless steel? or is the factory looking variety okay for you? Do you want the firewall slicked? Inner fenders? Want a factory placed master cylinder and steering components? Or aftermarket stuff. Gauges? Glass? Want factory or the flush mount stuff.... Hood okay stock? Or? And Hood hinges.... and on and on. Going to want to mini tub or leave it stock. THESE ALL DETERMINE how many times various pieces need to be installed and removed - and installed and test fit - and removed again for paint..... Some times I might have a part off or in and out of the car half a dozen or more times...... when in that kind of a build you don't want the car painted.

If you're going to build a nice driver - and mostly all stock -- lets say -- take a look at the transplants KWhizz (Ken Tibor) on here has done..... then I'd say get her painted - but not cut or buffed.... LEARN how to protect things --- and do the install... Get your interior installed and then cut and buff.

If you're going to do a few custom things that need holes drilled and things moved around and brackets built and blah blah blah.... get all that done and figure out before doing paint.

[slimjim]

You Can't argue with all of Gregs reasoning, And you're certainly not wrong about pre-planning, and you'll never be able to do enough unfortunately.
What you can do is read as many frame off build threads as possible on these forums to kind of see what is to be expected.
I had a similar mentality as you over 17 months ago when I bought my 68 rolling shell and my parts list is also very similar to yours, speedtech pro touring frame and torque arm, LS3 etc. I also thought my shell was pretty good condition....
Fast forward 8months, 30 grand and EVERY body panel replaced and it is great condition....
There's no doubt that the crate LS3-525 will fit, but to take full advantage of it's warranty, if that is your plan, then you really need that to be your last step of the entire build, with all the other necessary parts required for it to fit ordered prior. So ideally headers and engine mounts from speedtech to ensure proper fitment, oil pan from MAST motorsports(it fits), front runner system, wiring, everything...
That is one plan, But kind of goes against everything I've learnt regarding frame off builds and the way I'm tackling my car, being to build the entire car, fully assemble, and then disassemble for bodywork...
Like Greg said, there could be a book on all the steps, and there are also a lot of different ways to get there. Learn how you want to get there and you'll end up very happy.

[HIFLYR]

A guy could write a book on all the steps - forward and backward - there is to building a car.... and "it all depends" is in order here. Because it does all depend...

You wanting to just build a nice driver quality car? Or do you want a show quality paint and fit and finish?

Your warranty is going to start day of purchase.... why have the clock ticking while it sits in some filthy body shop?

Do you want to change OTHER THINGS about the car? Trans tunnel going to work in stock form for your combo? Minimal body work means what? That you know what the floors are like when they're free from dirt and undercoating?? You've seen the panels and they're not full of bondo and bad bodywork? I'm not being a smart ass here..... I'm merely suggesting that MANY A GUY HERE has "thought" there was little to do on their beautifully painted car -- only to find the nasty truth out. It's a HUGE OUCH and we've all been hit by it.

The reason I ask about driver vs show ------ do you want the wiring hidden? The various fluid handling lines? You want them stainless steel? or is the factory looking variety okay for you? Do you want the firewall slicked? Inner fenders? Want a factory placed master cylinder and steering components? Or aftermarket stuff. Gauges? Glass? Want factory or the flush mount stuff.... Hood okay stock? Or? And Hood hinges.... and on and on. Going to want to mini tub or leave it stock. THESE ALL DETERMINE how many times various pieces need to be installed and removed - and installed and test fit - and removed again for paint..... Some times I might have a part off or in and out of the car half a dozen or more times...... when in that kind of a build you don't want the car painted.

If you're going to build a nice driver - and mostly all stock -- lets say -- take a look at the transplants KWhizz (Ken Tibor) on here has done..... then I'd say get her painted - but not cut or buffed.... LEARN how to protect things --- and do the install... Get your interior installed and then cut and buff.

If you're going to do a few custom things that need holes drilled and things moved around and brackets built and blah blah blah.... get all that done and figure out before doing paint.

Greg
First thanks, a very good driver is what I am going for as I drive them. Did route 66 and back in my 68 Camaro Conv 327/th350. The body shell and all panels of my FB Conv have been alkaline dipped and Ecoated on the Nissan line the only rust is a little 6"x6" in the trunk and just small dings in the panels from doors. No mini tub but complete speedtech pro touring suspension FT & rear and 525LS auto cruise and connect. I am smoothing the firewall and inner fenders and the car has the factory 400 hood. Not big on billet so factory hinges ok but going vintage air vrs the factory air. Just trying to think this through.

[qtrracer]

I'm about 2 years into mine. Body mods, paint, interior and suspension are done. I'm stuck on wiring (e.g., ABS retro) and changing some stuff already done. Budget was blown despite my best efforts. Motor is on a stand and I've run out of energy. Time is the enemy in my case. Now I understand why so many projects are never finished.

This is not a show-car; it's a driver and I intend to autocross and open track it. Even so, plan on set-backs. And I second the recommendation to do a realistic budget - then add some increment. Plan it out and don't change your mind; changes are costly - time and money.

[GregWeld]

I've been a member of the Seattle Yacht Club for many years -- and we all used to laugh at a common statement about working on boats..... You need Cubic TIME or Cubic MONEY or BOTH. If you don't have time - then you'll have to pay someone else to do the work. If you don't have any time or any money.... That's an issue.

People pick a number in their mind that it's going to cost to build ---- and then quickly do a budget to meet that imaginary amount. The problem with that is it's never realistic and always about half what it really takes.

[jonathonar89]

Do your interior last would be my advice.

The first mod I would do to any 67-81 F-Body is swapping to solid body mounts. In stock form, the subframe is held to the body with 4 bolts and rubber bushings. Getting the slop out of this area really solidifies the foundation in which all your chassis components operate on. I'm partial to the Pro-Touring F-Body mounts on this subject. They're adjustable and less expensive than the other solid mounts I've seen on the market.