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vstol
09-03-2016, 04:48 AM
Just bled my Wilwood MC manual brake setup and went to bleed my rear brakes but no fluid. Could it be I have my brake actuator arm to tight and not coming back far enough? I have the wildwood proportional valve wide open. Thanks

Looking for something other than something in the lines.

Vegas69
09-03-2016, 09:11 AM
Do you have a factory proportioning valve? It could be stuck in front only mode.

vstol
09-03-2016, 10:36 AM
Wilwood and its open. Wilwood thinks I may have it adjusted to tight and it not on covering the exit but if it bleed correctly then...

Vega$69
09-03-2016, 04:29 PM
Do you have disc or drum brakes rear? If drum you need a 10# residual valve.

vstol
09-03-2016, 05:06 PM
Sorry C4 brakes

build site http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=44704

andrewb70
09-03-2016, 05:38 PM
You would be surprise how much fluid it takes to fill new, dry brake lines...I would just crack all the bleeders and let gravity do the work while keeping an eye on the fluid level in the MC...

Andrew

Vega$69
09-03-2016, 05:44 PM
I have good luck with a vacuum bleeder. Also have a Motive pressure bleeder but doesn't fit the Wilwood master.

vstol
09-03-2016, 06:26 PM
thanks gravity is one of my options

dhutton
09-03-2016, 07:36 PM
I have had good luck with a Phoenix reverse bleeder. You push fluid from the calipers back to the master cylinder.

Don

bretcopsey
09-04-2016, 08:54 AM
I have had good luck with a Phoenix reverse bleeder. You push fluid from the calipers back to the master cylinder.

Don

I went this route when going through my son's truck, except did the homemade route to save some money. Worked like a charm.

vstol
09-04-2016, 12:15 PM
interesting where did you purchase the phoenix unit

dhutton
09-04-2016, 07:58 PM
interesting where did you purchase the phoenix unit

eBay. I think this is the one I have:

http://www.ebay.com/itm/Phoenix-Systems-2003-B-Reverse-Fluid-Injection-Brake-Clutch-Bleeder/361674043174?_trksid=p2047675.c100005.m1851&_trkparms=aid%3D222007%26algo%3DSIC.MBE%26ao%3D1%2 6asc%3D37570%26meid%3D521df5bf8f20445d88125b838c2f 3811%26pid%3D100005%26rk%3D1%26rkt%3D4%26sd%3D1620 56873876

Don

vstol
09-05-2016, 05:23 AM
thanks

JUSTANOVA
09-05-2016, 07:37 PM
You would be surprise how much fluid it takes to fill new, dry brake lines...I would just crack all the bleeders and let gravity do the work while keeping an eye on the fluid level in the MC...

Andrew

I do this method especially when dealing with all new components, crack all bleeders, and keep the master topped off, wait for fluid to come out of all the bleeders (sometimes this takes a while, I have had it take a half hour plus) then close all the bleeders and do the normal brake bleed procedure to be sure.

vstol
09-06-2016, 05:24 AM
I do this method especially when dealing with all new components, crack all bleeders, and keep the master topped off, wait for fluid to come out of all the bleeders (sometimes this takes a while, I have had it take a half hour plus) then close all the bleeders and do the normal brake bleed procedure to be sure.

thanks

vstol
03-19-2017, 04:40 PM
Well finally back up with the car after building an addition to my home. Went back again to bleed my brakes and nothing in the rear. The Wilwood master brake cylinder was bench bleed and also bleed while on the vehicle. It is not pushing the fluid so I am thinking I need to back out the threads in order for it to completely clear the rear return/orifice in order to get the fluid to the rear. I am getting fluid to the fronts. I plan on calling wildwood tomorrow but keep you ideas coming. Thanks

vstol
04-20-2017, 04:00 AM
Problem solved and not sure why, thanks