Track Day 'Cuda

[CJD Automotive]

I'll just copy and paste from the intro section to get this started:

Hey guys, this is my '70 'Cuda build getting ready to start. It's the second go 'round on this car, with the previous build thread on Pro-Touring. So why do it again? Well, I was 90% done with the car, but like most people, couldn't afford to buy everything at once, so it was drawn out. When it originally started, I thought my suspension choices would be great and give me a chance to compete at an upper level. I worked the Optima Daytona event, and saw the writing on the wall. In just a year the cars had evolved phenomenally, and it didn't look like it would stop anytime soon. CAM cars were getting pretty serious as well. So there I am, a car that I've worked on for 5 years, not even going to be competitive before it's finished. That will take the wind out of your sails. About that time, I met Ron Sutton. We talked about different things to improve what I already had, but in the end, it would still be a crutch for a less than optimal design. So I had to make a choice. Build a nice cruiser that would not be competitive or change everything and build the car I had hoped it would be when I first started, but fell short. So I put the car on hold another 2 years to save the money I needed to build something that is well beyond my driving talent and would not be obsolete in a few years. And this is where it starts.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/GA3R_combo_zpsqbvrhq8q.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/GA3R_combo_zpsqbvrhq8q.jpg.html)

First order of business. Clean the shop! Get the car up on the drive on, and then spend about 4 hours leveling the rack out. I used blocks and shims. Then square up and level the car at the correct rake and lock it down. Threw some shop wheels under it for absolutely no reason other than just wanting to see what it looked like!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0510_zpsls8snsqj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0510_zpsls8snsqj.jpg.html)

Blueprints from Ron Sutton, Check.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0513_zpsxukliiuj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0513_zpsxukliiuj.jpg.html)

Cart of destruction, Check.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0512_zps0fujvine.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0512_zps0fujvine.jpg.html)

Some goodies showing up from Fedex, Check.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0514_zpsotgcvf8s.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0514_zpsotgcvf8s.jpg.html)

Unfortunately, the frame sections didn't show. Been waiting two months already, so what's a few more days.

You can see I started the wide body on the rear. Tried wheeling out some skins, but the body line location just didn't let that work out how I wanted. Haven't used an English Wheel much, so could have just been my inexperience. Either way, went the old school way of cut and weld. 20 fricken' feet of weld on that one quarter and it's still not done. Needed one side to get track width, but waiting on putting the front in before working the fenders. I'm hoping that being able to remove them to work them will make life much easier!

[DOOM]

Craig your in good hands with Ron! Keep us updated looks badazz!!!

[DBasher]

This is awesome! I'm looking forward to seeing this one come together...:thumbsup:

[CJD Automotive]

Thanks guys. Still waiting rails, so can't do anything. I'm working in other parts of the shop, but an orange car tends to stick out and taunt me.

[TrackMuscle]

Badass! Must be very exciting for you!

[63RamblerClassic]

Excited to see this one come together. Love the car choice. Good to see some a Cuda being turned into a pro-tourer!

[Josh@Ridetech]

Wicked car, I can't wait to see it come together.

[CJD Automotive]

Thanks guys. Frame rails showed yesterday as well as the crossmember parts. Time to start cutting and fitting!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0541_zpsitsfh2jd.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0541_zpsitsfh2jd.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0542_zpsonpb3mvu.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0542_zpsonpb3mvu.jpg.html)

[214Chevy]

Love the rendering. Will be watching this one come to life.

[liquidh8]

Very cool, I'll be following this build for sure.

[tmadden]

Rendering is super cool. Keep posting pics

[CJD Automotive]

Rendering is super cool. Keep posting pics

Ben Hermance did the rendering. Said it was the, "The meanest looking car he had ever done that wasn't black or silver!". I kinda wore him out getting the look and placement of things right. Went through a ton of revisions.

[GregWeld]

You're going to be blown away at how this is going to work for you!

Secret Sauce! Hell yeah!

[MoparCar]

Awesome build. Can't wait to see progress. Can you let us in on what Ron has planned for your front suspension or is that secret sauce as GW said?

Thanks! Wes

[CJD Automotive]

Awesome build. Can't wait to see progress. Can you let us in on what Ron has planned for your front suspension or is that secret sauce as GW said?

Thanks! Wes

Thanks guys. The front is a RSRT "TA" design.

Ron design the front and rear suspension as a package for my particular vehicle and application, right down to spec'ing wheel size and offset.

[fleetus macmullitz]

Maybe I missed it, but what's the motor/tranny setup going to be?

[CJD Automotive]

Maybe I missed it, but what's the motor/tranny setup going to be?

Sequential 6 speed behind a 422 CI R3 with twin 72mm turbo's. It's a Mopar, so almost everything is custom (i.e expensive and takes forever to get it or have it made) when it comes to engines. Thankfully, I already have it built. I'll cover that with lots of pics when I drop it in.
Sooo jealous of LS guys when it comes to building anything with the engines. You guys don't know how good you got it!

[preston]

Sequential 6 speed behind a 422 CI R3 with twin 72mm turbo's.

And here I was thinking this was supposed to be a serious effort car :D

[SBDave]

This is gonna be awesome! What sequential transmission are you using? I'm building a 73 Cuda but it's very basic, stoked to see people not afraid to modify them.

Dave

[CJD Automotive]

And here I was thinking this was supposed to be a serious effort car :D

Gonna run some mile events and hope to take it to the salt. Turbo's seemed logical as the way to get big power when I need it, but loaf around at 5-600HP for track days.

[CJD Automotive]

This is gonna be awesome! What sequential transmission are you using? I'm building a 73 Cuda but it's very basic, stoked to see people not afraid to modify them.

Dave

Its a PPG gear set in a T56 magnum case.

Yes, cut it up and make it what you want, more importantly make it fun and safe to drive. I've had Mopars most of my adult life, and if I hear, "it's 1 of blah, blah, blah" one more time, I'm gonna puke coat hangers. They were all 1 of something, and they don't all need to be restored!

[CJD Automotive]

Time to put the cross member in. It is designed to go directly below the main hoop and tie into the rocker and rocker boxes.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_8481_zpsz56ljepk.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_8481_zpsz56ljepk.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0190_zpsjac4zrip.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0190_zpsjac4zrip.jpg.html)

It will attach to the forward part of the floor and tie into the existing sub frame connectors.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_4861_zpsuvtgc9t7.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_4861_zpsuvtgc9t7.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_9514_zpsudrqhrqu.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_9514_zpsudrqhrqu.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0332_zpshtz11tal.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0332_zpshtz11tal.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_3272_zpstltuhgsi.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_3272_zpstltuhgsi.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_6829_zpsbpo1hujj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_6829_zpsbpo1hujj.jpg.html)

[Ron Sutton]

You know I'm so visual ... sometimes I don't get it until I see it.

Now I see what you mean about the frame being quite a ways below the rocker. I agree with your plan to trim the outer edges up towards the rocker surface, after the lower link brackets are installed.

:cheers:

[CJD Automotive]

It actually matches the front. This is how they are stock. Crap hangs 2" below the rocker from the factory. It actually works out well. The belly pan mounts right to this and clears the drivetrain.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_8135_zpsvyoi0g4a.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_8135_zpsvyoi0g4a.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_6666_zpsmz5thkgx.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_6666_zpsmz5thkgx.jpg.html)

[Rmt]

Sweeeeeet...

[CJD Automotive]

Sweeeeeet...

Pretty sure I can't hang with that 1500 lbs roller skate of yours. You got any updates?

[Flash68]

Killer project!

[CJD Automotive]

Killer project!

Thanks!

[CJD Automotive]

Nothing like the wheel manufacture sending you pics as your wheels progress through machining operations (okay, I did bug him for one, haven't seen them except in CAD). Rears, 18X13 Mono Blocks. Will be flat black once completed.

I'll post up some progress shots on car this weekend.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/Scholl_zpspdk7plqe.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/Scholl_zpspdk7plqe.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Okay, blocked the next three days to get the back in. Making absolutely sure crossmember is level and square to the car. If its off, everything else gets thrown off.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0593_zpsvguo3yow.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0593_zpsvguo3yow.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0595_zps2ujml2hf.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0595_zps2ujml2hf.jpg.html)

The upper seat bar will tie into the top of the loop, making a nice strong crossmember.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0592_zpsut9adepy.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0592_zpsut9adepy.jpg.html)

I have the cage extended down through the floor and had welded a cap with nut in the bottom of the tube. This is to let me screw on extensions to jack/lift the car. Since the crossmember is directly under this, I welded another extension down that will be flush with the new crossmember.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0568_zps7ss86bgy.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0568_zps7ss86bgy.jpg.html)http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0567_zps3wdvsob2.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0567_zps3wdvsob2.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0569_zpsetvpcfmf.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0569_zpsetvpcfmf.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0565_zpsuonfpgqx.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0565_zpsuonfpgqx.jpg.html)

Normally just tack everything up and finish weld once everything is in. With this being the "control" piece and it's placement cannot move, I'll fully weld it and then weld it in.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0596_zps8mmnfynz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0596_zps8mmnfynz.jpg.html)

No matter what you do, it's going to pull. Quick trip on the press and it back straight.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0597_zps7mzicvlt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0597_zps7mzicvlt.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

More wheel pics...


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/DSC02581_zpsioyeb7ty.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/DSC02581_zpsioyeb7ty.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/DSC02583_zps2gywn4kg.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/DSC02583_zps2gywn4kg.jpg.html)

[SBDave]

Very nice!

[CJD Automotive]

Very nice!

Thanks!

Wheels showed up today along with tires. I need these now to build the new tubs in the rear and to flare the front fenders once the front sub is in.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0599_zpsiod9fxcx.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0599_zpsiod9fxcx.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0605-1_zpsebhxd3yf.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0605-1_zpsebhxd3yf.jpg.html)

Wanted to show the caps that go on the hubs. I'm using Ron's RSRT Track Star Super Hubs in the front. They have a big grease cap for a big bearing! (3" center bore) Ron's idea was to have the wheel manufacture engrave their logo so it looked like part of the wheel. I think it came out great. Rear caps are the Speedway caps for their hubs with the Finspeed logo machined.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0600_zpspm17kbht.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0600_zpspm17kbht.jpg.html)http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0601_zpsxwv7przu.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0601_zpsxwv7przu.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0602_zpsrpiphpgo.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0602_zpsrpiphpgo.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0603_zpssdhftion.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0603_zpssdhftion.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0604_zps5tdzuakg.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0604_zps5tdzuakg.jpg.html)

[67goatman455]

More wheel pics...


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/DSC02581_zpsioyeb7ty.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/DSC02581_zpsioyeb7ty.jpg.html)


Lord have mercy! Viagra for car guys

[98ssnova]

Those caps look great..very god idea:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[CJD Automotive]

Some updates. Started by cutting out the rear floor section.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0610_zpsmfeshm3x.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0610_zpsmfeshm3x.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0611_zps27bfwzon.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0611_zps27bfwzon.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0618_zpsce1vdufx.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0618_zpsce1vdufx.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0619_zpszpnb3fbg.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0619_zpszpnb3fbg.jpg.html)


Because of how the cage was installed previously, I evened up the rocker boxes from the inside, making a "shelf" sort of. This leaves a space from the inside rocker to the frame rail that the control arm is accessed and adjusted.
This is not a tube frame race car, but a street car, body integrity is important to me. I still want doors to shut with a tight "thud" and body panels to line up and stay that way, and keeping the internal body structure should help that.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0623_zpsjfgpifvz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0623_zpsjfgpifvz.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0625_zpsthrlbdwx.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0625_zpsthrlbdwx.jpg.html)

I wanted to "sneak up" on the rear. Wasn't quite sure how I was going to do this. I had previously installed a cross tube between the stock frame rails and an upper support/bumper bar for the parachute mount. In the end, I decided to leave that in place and plate down to the previous crossbar and then just tie the new rails in their.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_7718_zps2yyopf0s.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_7718_zps2yyopf0s.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0662_zpsi1xu0fed.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0662_zpsi1xu0fed.jpg.html)

Then started cutting down the rails to fit and correspond with the blueprint. Front looked good...

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0663_zpshhvj8x25.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0663_zpshhvj8x25.jpg.html)

Rear, not so much. Ron had asked for the lowest point of the trunk floor as a measurement. I provided that and ask what about the measurement where the rails tie into the rear tail panel? Said it just needed the lowest part of the trunk. Apparently the tail panel measurement is kinda important.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1272_zpsbutjtytt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1272_zpsbutjtytt.jpg.html)

Now to figure out how I want to fix this. The sway bar and watts frame are actually pretty low on the backside of the bend, lower than where I need to attach the rails to the rear...

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0673_zpsv6av3z5l.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0673_zpsv6av3z5l.jpg.html)

...so I need to curve down to it.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0666_zpsbbk8kpin.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0666_zpsbbk8kpin.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0671_zps104vlhjt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0671_zps104vlhjt.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0672_zpsvxfztwli.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0672_zpsvxfztwli.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Too bad poster board isn't structural...I need to make this look like it was in the plan all along instead of a fix.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0674_zpspskuea9s.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0674_zpspskuea9s.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0675_zpsp74sxms5.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0675_zpsp74sxms5.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0676_zps7hliiqiq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0676_zps7hliiqiq.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0678_zpsxtk6zql1.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0678_zpsxtk6zql1.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0679_zpswv3aquwx.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0679_zpswv3aquwx.jpg.html)

I'll finish these up tonight and start on installing the sway bar tube and watts this weekend.

[SSLance]

Now that is thinking outside the box to find a fix, nice work. Sometimes things just happen and I always try to just figure out a solution instead of worrying about why it happened...seems you must subscribe to the same theory Craig.

Keeping the chute mount huh? Nice...

[Mr.VENGEANCE]

Yall make me want a Cuda...

[CJD Automotive]

Now that is thinking outside the box to find a fix, nice work. Sometimes things just happen and I always try to just figure out a solution instead of worrying about why it happened...seems you must subscribe to the same theory Craig.

Thanks Lance. I screw up lots of stuff and have years of practice fixing it and making it look like that's what I wanted to do...Nothing like paying someone for parts/designs and then fixing their mistakes for free.


Keeping the chute mount huh? Nice...

Yep, going to run some mile events and Bonneville.

[CJD Automotive]

Yall make me want a Cuda...

I know you like the fat booty from the PT site. Wait 'till you see the wide body complete.

[syborg tt]

Craig the wheels look incredible. I can't wait to see this car as a roller.

More wheel pics...


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/DSC02581_zpsioyeb7ty.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/DSC02581_zpsioyeb7ty.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/DSC02583_zps2gywn4kg.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/DSC02583_zps2gywn4kg.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Thanks!

Couple updates. I'm slacking a little. I've been trying to work on this a few hours at night and on weekends, but after working in the shop 10 hours during the day, with the temperature at 100 degrees with ridiculous humidity, I'm about done at the days end.

Got the down bars cut off and prepped for what Ron suggested, a Ness bar. The down bars need to connect to the new rear frame rails, problem was, my new rails are about 10" narrower than my existing down bars. Cutting mine out and installing new ones really wasn't an option. These were welded to the main hoop when the cage was dropped so the tops could be welded. Now that the cage is lifted into position and welded in place, you can't get to the tops of the existing down bars to cut, or be able to weld in new ones. Ron came up with a wrap around bar, or Ness bar. This allows the down bars to be further out, and to be honest, frees up some real estate to put additional items back there.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0697_zpsx67hikcb.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0697_zpsx67hikcb.jpg.html)http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0696_zps5rtochd5.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0696_zps5rtochd5.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0703_zpsusx9al6h.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0703_zpsusx9al6h.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0704_zpsiwi6e1tr.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0704_zpsiwi6e1tr.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0713_zps8intxhpa.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0713_zps8intxhpa.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0714_zpski8id52t.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0714_zpski8id52t.jpg.html)


The Ness bar will make an excellent place to attach the cover for the rear seat area. This all becomes home to the rear end accel/decel links, oil tank, battery, etc.

[Ron Sutton]

I call it a Ness bar, because the first time I saw that wrap around shape to tie the main hoop, down bars & rear struts all together was on a Don Ness Pro/Stock car in the 80's. I do it differently on my Track-Warrior tube chassis cars. But on Craig's Cuda, which still has the floor & already had a roll cage this was just another way of skinning the cat.

P.S. Looking good Craig !

:cheers:

[CJD Automotive]

Couple updates. Got put on hold while waiting NASA and SCCA cage approval. I've been debating cutting some out and redoing it to the "letter of the law", but have decided to roll with what I got and add to the existing structure. It's already 1-3/4 DOM .120 wall and tucked up nice and tight, so I'll add a few more bars and install permanent door bars.

Still gussets to install after I get this fully welded.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0766_zpsnm2mb5oz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0766_zpsnm2mb5oz.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0767_zpsjhbv1153.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0767_zpsjhbv1153.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0768_zpsgfzvda0m.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0768_zpsgfzvda0m.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0769_zps7kmprntg.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0769_zps7kmprntg.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0770_zpsayo9yimp.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0770_zpsayo9yimp.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0771_zpsgtvm53xh.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0771_zpsgtvm53xh.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0772_zpskeexgx5j.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0772_zpskeexgx5j.jpg.html)


PS Ron, I landed those uprights dead on your spec's!

[Ron Sutton]

PS Ron, I landed those uprights dead on your spec's!


Sweet !

[Ron Sutton]

PS Ron, I landed those uprights dead on your spec's!


Sweet !

[Josh@Ridetech]

Really digging this build. Keep it up! :thumbsup:

[WSSix]

Nice work with the bars!

[CJD Automotive]

Thanks guys!

Few more. Progress is stalled waiting parts.

Should have seats in a few weeks so I can fit door and roof bars.

You can see the sway bar tube and Watt's link installed.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0913_zpsrq8korj3.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0913_zpsrq8korj3.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0912_zpsxreof5i7.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0912_zpsxreof5i7.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0917_zpsmb2akjps.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0917_zpsmb2akjps.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0919_zpsz5wd3d6n.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0919_zpsz5wd3d6n.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0921_zpsvciwgna4.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0921_zpsvciwgna4.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0922_zpsnyc0sjiq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0922_zpsnyc0sjiq.jpg.html)

[syborg tt]

Craig,

Car looks awesome and the more I see track cars being built the more I love them. This one being a Cuda is even better. :hail:

[CJD Automotive]

Craig,

Car looks awesome and the more I see track cars being built the more I love them. This one being a Cuda is even better. :hail:

Thanks!

Some may be wondering on the angled cage bars...

This is a two fold solution for me. The NASA/SCCA rule for the cage requires two diagonal main hoop supports to the frame. Doesn't say where. The tech guys okay'd this. Second, this is how a rally cage is built. I personally like the support of the middle hoop, you just never know if it got on the lid, where or what you could hit (besides, I can get to the tube and do a full 360 weld in the middle!) It will have two more bars, directly on the the other side of these, angled out from the middle to the front hoop/down bar junction to provide the roof support, which will tie into the "FIA bars" still to be added.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0929_zpsckuzqx7f.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0929_zpsckuzqx7f.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0928_zps85j7bki0.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0928_zps85j7bki0.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0926_zpswdyzabku.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0926_zpswdyzabku.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Couple more.

Rear end showed today, a solid 6 months from when ordered. At this rate, going to take awhile to get this thing together. Went ahead and threw it in epoxy, and did a few quick measurements. Ron had me send my Brembo E-brake calipers to him so Speedway could fit the brackets. They did, but for a 12" rotor, not 13". Guess I'll cut those off and redo later...and I paid to have this done! On the plus side, I have a Moser 9", and comparing it to the Speedway is no contest. This Speedway housing is just super trick, from inside to out.

Still debating color on everything including cage and rear end, etc.. Car is staying orange. Opinions/suggestions on color are welcome!


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0974_zpscp8tfphx.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0974_zpscp8tfphx.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0969_zpsme4sfsfu.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0969_zpsme4sfsfu.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0959_zpswuiuc53p.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0959_zpswuiuc53p.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0960_zpsgy7uzv6k.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0960_zpsgy7uzv6k.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0963_zpse8xzdgvo.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0963_zpse8xzdgvo.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0966_zpsfevi0nv6.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0966_zpsfevi0nv6.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Cage is progressing. Still waiting seats to do the door and roof bars. Pic of the 3 link attachment.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_5344_zpsvpopdrpk.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_5344_zpsvpopdrpk.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_8754_zps3cst4mvh.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_8754_zps3cst4mvh.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_7576_zpswvaur08h.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_7576_zpswvaur08h.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0425_zpsgjsgph81.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0425_zpsgjsgph81.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_3477_zps1pfqrszc.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_3477_zps1pfqrszc.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_7536_zpsxdcjcu5u.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_7536_zpsxdcjcu5u.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_3100_zpsrwjlx0bt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_3100_zpsrwjlx0bt.jpg.html)

[SBDave]

Great progress! I still think white or some shade of gray would look good and racey

[CJD Automotive]

Great progress! I still think white or some shade of gray would look good and racey

Thanks Dave!

Seats showed the other day. We went and got fitted when we were in Charlotte for Ron's Workshop. I got two, one for me and my wife. She wants to drive some CAM and track day stuff and with so much cage close to your head, wanted a halo for even the slow speed stuff.

You'll hear me never ending bitch about Mopars and lack of this or that, but when it comes to body width, I'll take this over any Chevy or Ford any day. Got plenty of room for door bars without being squeezed.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1080_zpsyvpqggpr.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1080_zpsyvpqggpr.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1077_zpsrxe6ftsv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1077_zpsrxe6ftsv.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1078_zpsxdfinuyi.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1078_zpsxdfinuyi.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1081_zpssyq62ewz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1081_zpssyq62ewz.jpg.html)

[Flash68]

Is that seat powdercoated? Looks great. Did you have that done or did Butler do that for ya?

[CJD Automotive]

Is that seat powdercoated? Looks great. Did you have that done or did Butler do that for ya?

Thanks.

Yep, powder coated. Butler offers it, so had them do it. There powder coat looks good, but peels off pretty easy, so I don't recommend it.

Seats were definitely more than I wanted to spend! We looked at the different seats, was going to go with the model down, based on price, and my wife says, "look what you spent on wheels, your going to get cheap now on the safety?". Made sense, so got these! She has no idea what the Ron part cost...

[CJD Automotive]

Went ahead and epoxied what I've done so far, but not the final color. It's Florida, humid, and my shop isn't air conditioned. Sweating and climbing around to fit and weld had me constantly chasing rust. Still waiting on a pretty trick fuel cell from Fuel Safe to arrive so I can build that structure and then start the sheetmetal.

Decided to make my life a little easier and not do door bars until the back is done. It already sucks climbing in and out at the height it's set at. Door bars would just make it worse!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1136_zpsuzs1bm98.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1136_zpsuzs1bm98.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1138_zpshrbeor4u.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1138_zpshrbeor4u.jpg.html)

...and the front clip showed up this morning...6 months later than promised. I think we got a theme going here. I'll post up lots of pics because I know some of you have been wanting to see what the RSRT clip looks like.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1150_zpsyhw83tmt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1150_zpsyhw83tmt.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1151_zpsm3pztqk9.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1151_zpsm3pztqk9.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1152_zps5wzem2xt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1152_zps5wzem2xt.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1156_zpsthbaizqv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1156_zpsthbaizqv.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1157_zpsjbzxmfo5.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1157_zpsjbzxmfo5.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1158_zps3tqlpa9k.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1158_zps3tqlpa9k.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1159_zpsonlovkqm.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1159_zpsonlovkqm.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1160_zpsdm2ezvbc.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1160_zpsdm2ezvbc.jpg.html)

[SSLance]

Hubba hubba... Very nice!!

[preston]

Wow that looks amazing. If you know what you're looking at, and I think I do, its even more impressive.

I can remember thinking a nice Art Morrison subframe looked pretty hot with the Corvette parts on it many years ago. Compared to this frame those seem more like a Street Rod IFS Mustang II crossmember setup you still see advertised.

[waynieZ]

Wow, definitely some rugged looking parts right there! Nice!

[Centerforce]

That's quite the jungle gym you have back there! Awesome work, and extra props for TIGing everything! We're tuned in to see whats next.

[CJD Automotive]

That's quite the jungle gym you have back there! Awesome work, and extra props for TIGing everything! We're tuned in to see whats next.

Thanks. I'll do mile runs with the car and the flats, so car can run upwards of 270 mph...wanted a little extra cage!

I'm going to say it takes 3 to 4 times as long to TIG it than MIG it. Still wondering why I'm doing it that way...

[jlwdvm]

How are the seats mounted to the floor?

[CJD Automotive]

How are the seats mounted to the floor?

I have DOM bars that connects to the cage and runs along the floor. From this, Butler sent me tabs to weld on and then a 1" .063 square tube bar is attached to the seat. Like this (not my car, but snapped these at Butler when I was there):


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1061_zpslknlcgmk.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1061_zpslknlcgmk.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1062_zpssu5kizem.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1062_zpssu5kizem.jpg.html)

[rustomatic]

That front end is a thing of serious thought and planning. I don't even know how to cut the slots for all of those adjustment slugs, but wow, the level of precise adjustability on all of the parts is just nuts. I'm also impressed with the diversity of tubing (no bendy round tube!) used on the subframe; I've been trying to use more 1x when it's possible, along with thinner-wall tubing. Clearly, Ron Sutton knows how to calculate where you need what for certain load paths, which also helps in weight management.

If you haven't yet, you might want to compare the brackets used on Kirkey seats. While the sliding adjustments on the Butlers shown may seem convenient . . .

Keep up the killer build!

[preston]

Do the Butler seats not have integral places to run bolts through on the sides like the Kirkey seats ? Been thinking about getting a Butler seat but looking at that picture I'm not sure I see any way to use my current brackets.

Do you have other pictures of Butler seat mounts ?

[CJD Automotive]

Do the Butler seats not have integral places to run bolts through on the sides like the Kirkey seats ? Been thinking about getting a Butler seat but looking at that picture I'm not sure I see any way to use my current brackets.

Do you have other pictures of Butler seat mounts ?


You drill the holes for the bolts on Butlers. They double up the aluminum in the area where you would attach them. Butler provides a sheet to tell you where they recommend you drill them.

[syborg tt]

so car can run upwards of 270 mph...wanted a little extra cage!

Seriously am I the only one that is going comment on this.

270 mph is scary fast !!!

Kudo's to you for building a cart that can safely do it.

[SBDave]

This thing is just awesome! I get scared at 145, 270 is nuts. Oh and I just got a Sparco fixed back mounted in my Cuda, wooo what a difference!!

[CJD Automotive]

Thanks guys!

Few more with tires. Amazed at the turning radius and 335's.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1170_zps5ea0b84r.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1170_zps5ea0b84r.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1171_zps0rzfgdig.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1171_zps0rzfgdig.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1173_zpsygive73o.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1173_zpsygive73o.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1174_zps1owqzrsd.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1174_zps1owqzrsd.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1176_zps4i1yqxmv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1176_zps4i1yqxmv.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1177_zpssorvkwes.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1177_zpssorvkwes.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1181_zpswzhknkoo.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1181_zpswzhknkoo.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1182_zpsn6r6ak2x.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1182_zpsn6r6ak2x.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1183_zpsethvirre.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1183_zpsethvirre.jpg.html)

Not 100% on the curved tie rod, looks a little sketchy. Going to see if a straight one will work, but if I need it to keep the turning radius, I'll run a small gusset at the bend.

[NOT A TA]

Painting that cage was not fun I'm sure!

The front clip with those massive tires looks....... really really intimidating.

[Centerforce]

Thanks. Ron will say it is overbuilt, i.e. adding excessive weight. I'll do mile runs with the car and the flats, so car can run upwards of 270 mph...wanted a little extra cage!

I'm going to say it takes 3 to 4 times as long to TIG it than MIG it. Still wondering why I'm doing it that way...

Well at speeds like that, we'd definitely take an extra 10 pounds for the added safety.

Also, it may be because it's off the car. but that front tire setup has to be the beefiest we've ever seen!! :confused18:

[CJD Automotive]

Painting that cage was not fun I'm sure!

The front clip with those massive tires looks....... really really intimidating.

Yes, sucked ass and that's just epoxy. Still have to scuff and paint when all done. Next time, going to switch to a pressure pot so I can eliminate the cup not fitting in a spot or bumping everything!

[CJD Automotive]

Well at speeds like that, we'd definitely take an extra 10 pounds for the added safety.

Also, it may be because it's off the car. but that front tire setup has to be the beefiest we've ever seen!! :confused18:

It's sitting in the shop and when people come in they immediately walk to it! It's crazy with that size tire.
Going to break it down this weekend and epoxy the bare metal...then on to fitting!

[CJD Automotive]

Posted up the seat mount question in Ron's Safety Thread. I'm curious too as to what is the best/safest mount style.

[carbuff]

I'm curious which 'level' of Ron's front clip is this? I don't recall them all, but something like the TA, TA2, GT, etc.

[CJD Automotive]

I'm curious which 'level' of Ron's front clip is this? I don't recall them all, but something like the TA, TA2, GT, etc.

TA front and GT rear.

[Ron Sutton]

I'm curious which 'level' of Ron's front clip is this? I don't recall them all, but something like the TA, TA2, GT, etc.

Hey Bryan,

My highest level front suspensions are called "Track-Star GT" & require the engine to be moved back substantially, so the pulleys are behind the front axle centerline.

Craig's front suspension is my "Track-Star TA" front suspension. It is the meanest front suspension I know how to build ... without moving the engine back behind the front axle centerline. The LCAs are a special Laser cut design I did. The UCAs are on roller bearings. The shocks adjusters allow the ride height to change up to 2" without affecting the shaft gap showing on the shocks. It utilizes a special bump stop system for easy landings & consistent corner entry grip & braking.

The spindles are my GT "Zero Scrub" with my GT narrow XHD hubs. Bearings have twice the rating of street car stuff. The steering arms are slugged, so Craig can make them anywhere from 4-1/4" long to 5-1/4" long. Excellent for switching from autocross to road courses, like a lot of my Optima clients do.

Of course it has crazy high end hardware, Tubular Chromoly bolts with AN washers & Nylock half nuts on all the double shear mounts. 170,000 PSI 12-Point bolts & full height Nylocks for all the single shear mounts. Howe zero stiction XHD ball joints (not the standard versions). All chromoly rod ends, curved tie rods to allow the spindle to go deep into the wheels, which are 18x13 w/10" BS.

Craig's TA package has all of the possible upgrades over the "standard TA package. His came with a full range (70+) of suspension slugs, Caster Slugs & Camber Shims so the geometry can be changed or optimized for any set-up or any ride height he dreams up down the road. Plus Craig's has the triple adj JRI shocks with my special Race-Star valving & the Draco 9000 Series springs. Ridetech Triples with Track-Star valving & Draco springs are standard with the TA. Front Brakes will be my new StopTech ST60 Trophy system with lightweight (16.2#) 14" x 1.25" rotors.

The "Track-Star TA2" front frame & suspension is a lower cost version of the TA. It has the same frame, geometry & control arms, but uses lower cost shocks (Ridetech SA w/Track-Star Valving), Hypercoil 4000 Series springs, no C/O adjusters, TA2 Spindles & hubs with a 5/8" more scrub. It only comes with one set of slugs & Shims to optimize the suspension for the target ride height & setup. Everything else is the same.

The "Track-Star TT" (TT = Track Toy) is the lowest cost version. It uses the same frame clip design as the TA & TA2. But it uses off the shelf stock car control arms (non bearing), GN spindles, GN hubs, non-slugged steering arm, etc. It uses plain ol' grade 8 hardware. But it still uses the bad ass Sweet dual power rack & Ridetech SA shocks w/Track-Star Valving. It is designed for a guy that whats to have a durable, fun, safe, good handling track car (or street & track car) but isn't trying to set lap records. The geometry is "good." It is as good as I can achieve with all the shelf LCAs & GN Spindles. So it will be very good, but not in the same league as the TA & GT stuff.

Craig is pairing this with my "Track-Star GT" rear suspension which will make for one mean MoFo. :)


:cheers:

[Ron Sutton]

Posted up the seat mount question in Ron's Safety Thread. I'm curious too as to what is the best/safest mount style.

I answered the seat question over on my Safety Thread Craig.

Link: http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=48392&page=7

:cheers:

[preston]

Ron if you have time could you indulge one question from me -

Maybe its just a feature of the TA2 design, but it seems the arm design on this clip went out of the way to put the lower rod ends in a single axis. To me this is normally done on OEM style arms so that they can use bushings. With rod ends, it seems like it doesn't matter that much how you align the pivots (for example in your GT clip) since they will articulate. I'm also wondering if that's why the front pivot is skewed as it looks like there would be still be clearance if it came in straight from the ball joint along the FACL, or at least very close. Even though that arm is plenty stout, the amateur engineer in me just see's a big bend right in the load path.

Is there anything you're willing to share on why or why not one would want to keep rod end pivots on axis vs just putting them in the correct 3d space ? And was this skewing of the FLCA pivot mostly done for clearance ?

[Ron Sutton]

Ron if you have time could you indulge one question from me -

Maybe its just a feature of the TA2 design, but it seems the arm design on this clip went out of the way to put the lower rod ends in a single axis. To me this is normally done on OEM style arms so that they can use bushings. With rod ends, it seems like it doesn't matter that much how you align the pivots (for example in your GT clip) since they will articulate. I'm also wondering if that's why the front pivot is skewed as it looks like there would be still be clearance if it came in straight from the ball joint along the FACL, or at least very close. Even though that arm is plenty stout, the amateur engineer in me just see's a big bend right in the load path.

Is there anything you're willing to share on why or why not one would want to keep rod end pivots on axis vs just putting them in the correct 3d space ? And was this skewing of the FLCA pivot mostly done for clearance ?

Hi Preston,

This might be one of the more technical questions I've received. You're correct about part of it & incorrect about parts of it.

Let's get the incorrect items (which I have bolded in your text above) out of the way ...
a. The front LCA mount & rod end is in the optimum location & is in line with the load forces better than if we had run the rod end straight out to the LBJ, like we do with my GT front end. On the GT front end, which uses 2-piece LCAs, I had to really be cognizant of the forces pulling on the rod end at an angle not true with the rod end design. I handled this with both design & material solutions. With the TA LCA here, the forces pulling on the front LCA rod end are closest to being in line with the front LCA rod end.

So you may have a skewed view of which direction the forces are actually pushing & pulling. The forces are not pulling straight out from the rod end to the LBJ. The forces are pulling out & forward on the front rod end, in an arc, based on the rear LCA rod end acting as a pivot location for the LCA ... like a sideways rocker arm. See the photos below.

b. I am not clear on what you mean by the "big bend right in the load path" ... as the front rod end & LCA receptacle for the rod end are very close to the load direction. *You can't be perfect with a non-articulating part (top view), as the load pulling on the front rod end is in an arc, not straight. The rod end in this LCA is at the optimum angle & the LCA design itself is triangulated & braced internally to handle the circular loading that occurs.

c. If by skewing, you mean why are the LCA pivots on the same plane as each other to form a true pivot axis? ... the answer is no, this wasn't done for clearance. It actually hurt clearance a bit & forced the rack forward a bit more then the GT. Is was done so the special adjusters & rod ends on the LCA would function properly over a wide range without binding.

Any time you have a 1-piece LCA, if you don't put the rod ends on the same pivot axis, you have a very small window or sweet spot the rod ends have to be to bolt up to the frame. There is less than a turn or two ... to adjust the rod ends without binding in a 1-piece L:CA if the rod ends aren't parallel. If the rod ends run at opposing angles on a 1-piece LCA ... if you adjust the rod ends to adjust camber, caster and/or track width ... we'd bind up the rod ends in the LCA frame buckets with very little adjustment. So I don't design 1-piece LCAs with the rod ends at opposing angles, only parallel.

The trick adjusters on this 1-piece LCA for my TA & TA2 front suspensions (you can see them as a Gold Hex on the frame side of the LCAs) have the rod ends screw into them, with a jam nut on the other side. The cool part about these is you can adjust track width, camber or caster, at the LCA quickly & easily. They have a wide range of adjustment because the rod ends are parallel. We couldn't achieve that if they were at opposing angles in a 1-piece LCA.

With most LCAs using rod ends, you have to unbolt the rod end from the frame bracket ... loosen the jam nut ... make an SWAG length adjustment by threading the rod end in or out either in half or full turns ... then bolt it back up & see if we hit the target on the camber, caster or track width changes we're looking for. With these special adjusters on the TA & TA2 LCAs, we can loosen the jam nut(s) and turn the gold hex adjuster ... to adjust camber, caster and/or track width .... without unbolting the LCA rod ends from the frame. Quick, easy & more precise.

To clarify, we can run the rod ends at opposing angles in a LCA. If it is a 1-piece LCA, you just don't have much rod end adjustment without binding. So on my GT cars where I do run the rod ends at opposing angles, the LCAs are 2-piece. There is a main LCA that comes straight out from the frame to the LBJ ... and a strut rod that comes from the chassis to the LCA mounting point. That mounting point is what allows us to adjust the rod ends without creating bind like a welded 1-piece control would. The bolt together design simply allows us to adjust the LCA rod end at the frame mount ... and/or the strut rod rod end at the frame ... a pretty good amount, without binding the rod ends.

As you can see from the photos, the load arc is more in line with the rod ends being parallel, and not when the rod ends are at opposing angles. So when we build 2-piece LCAs, we need to insure the design & materials are super strong, and the rod end is a wide body chromoly rod end, not the standard mild steel or even narrow body chromoly. The wide body provides more contact area & control of the monoball in the rod end body, which is critical, because this rod ends sees more side loading.

Make sense?

.

[Ron Sutton]

Hey Guys,

I am super busy right now & need to hold off answering any more technical questions until I get back from SEMA.

:cheers:

Ron Sutton

[preston]

Wow that was a great explanation, I really appreciate it.

[CJD Automotive]

Got the front clip in epoxy and started mocking up the rear. As you can see in this pic, the X brace that was in my blueprint is actually touching the 3 link at the housing. This took a lot of time fitting and welding, guess I'll cut that out...


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1247_zpsxx20ecit.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1247_zpsxx20ecit.jpg.html)


It wasn't until I cleaned and epoxied it that I noticed some pretty sub standard welds. Ron said it's "race car quality", not show. I'll let you decide.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1304_zpsjkifv6z4.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_4095_zpseabmtmai.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1305_zpsdezmg7pj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1305_zpsdezmg7pj.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1306_zpsmeqgc5um.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1306_zpsmeqgc5um.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1309_zpst6bv4xr3.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1309_zpst6bv4xr3.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_4095_zpseabmtmai.jpg
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_6449_zpsw4nwfdbh.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_6449_zpsw4nwfdbh.jpg.html)

Got Fuel Safe working on the cell.

I'm using a Holley VR2 brushless pump, internally mounted, that pulls from the custom collector. It also has two internal lift pumps that pull from the corners and fill the collector. Lot of stuff going on/in that cell.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/20161107_142129_zpsubmrxrsx.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/20161107_142129_zpsubmrxrsx.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/fuel%20safe%201_zpsulnz0r5j.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/fuel%20safe%201_zpsulnz0r5j.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/fuel%20safe%202_zps6rcxf6ld.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/fuel%20safe%202_zps6rcxf6ld.jpg.html)

[preston]

I usually get more excited by front suspensions but that fully adjustable shock dampened de-coupled 3 link looks so bad ass.

[CJD Automotive]

I usually get more excited by front suspensions but that fully adjustable shock dampened de-coupled 3 link looks so bad ass.

Well then, here's a few more...

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1267_zpsdhaf4bro.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1267_zpsdhaf4bro.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1265_zps5gnu3dmc.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1265_zps5gnu3dmc.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Few more...

At a stopping point on the rear waiting the cell, so going to move to the front. You can see the lower leg of the X brace removed here.



http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1268_zpsqxednuks.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1268_zpsqxednuks.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1269_zpsju2cep0n.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1269_zpsju2cep0n.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1270_zpsfpgkim1x.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1270_zpsfpgkim1x.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1271_zpskrjvl6xn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1271_zpskrjvl6xn.jpg.html)

[preston]

Thanks we always appreciate the photos. Not sure about the olive green paint scheme though - c'mon this is pro-touring we need the undercarriage to be bondoed and painted in a flip flop chameleon color to be taken seriously :lmao:

Far be it from me to second guess the Sutton-meister, but it sure surprises me not to see any triangulation on either of those watt links mount. I've seen his math on the loads but 1 lb of metal gussets would give me a lot of peace of mind.

Really looking forward to seeing the front clip put in place. What ride height are you targetting ? I saw some numbers on your drawing that looked very low. Is this a race car that can survive the street or do you plan on a fair amount of street driving ?

[CJD Automotive]

Thanks we always appreciate the photos. Not sure about the olive green paint scheme though - c'mon this is pro-touring we need the undercarriage to be bondoed and painted in a flip flop chameleon color to be taken seriously :lmao:

Everything is in epoxy, just different colors depending on what I had ready at the time and what I had to mix. It all gets painted later, just need a little protection now, and it will be very nice and pretty, just like before. It's my street car-slash-track car.

Far be it from me to second guess the Sutton-meister, but it sure surprises me not to see any triangulation on either of those watt links mount. I've seen his math on the loads but 1 lb of metal gussets would give me a lot of peace of mind.

The long side, on the left, is triangulated. The right side is short and isn't. I overbuild everything, so trusting Ron's calc's. (BTW, EVERYONE has told me that!)

EDIT: This is the same setup that is on Greg's car. It broke on the forth or fifth lap when he dropped a wheel over the curb. So, most definitely needs a support!

Really looking forward to seeing the front clip put in place. What ride height are you targetting ? I saw some numbers on your drawing that looked very low. Is this a race car that can survive the street or do you plan on a fair amount of street driving ?

I have the car set at one of the lowest race heights now. Ron designed the suspension to allow 2" of height adjustment without affecting the geometry. You can see the jack screws in the trunk, and there is another set for the front. All the way up is close to 5" clearance, which is more than some new cars.

[Ron Sutton]

Thanks we always appreciate the photos. Not sure about the olive green paint scheme though - c'mon this is pro-touring we need the undercarriage to be bondoed and painted in a flip flop chameleon color to be taken seriously :lmao:

Far be it from me to second guess the Sutton-meister, but it sure surprises me not to see any triangulation on either of those watt links mount. I've seen his math on the loads but 1 lb of metal gussets would give me a lot of peace of mind.

Really looking forward to seeing the front clip put in place. What ride height are you targetting ? I saw some numbers on your drawing that looked very low. Is this a race car that can survive the street or do you plan on a fair amount of street driving ?

Hey Preston,

I understand your concern. A lot of people subscribe to the "When in doubt, make it stout" philosophy. I don't ... because a pound here & pound there ... ends up making the car 200-400# heavier than they need to be. So I run calcs on everything & see what it needs. Then I make it as strong as it needs to be ... but no heavier than it needs to be.

FYI ...
* The upper watts link mount tube that sticks out of the axle housing tube on the driver side DOES have a 45° brace. You just can't see it in the photos.
* The lower watts link on the passenger side, bolts on behind the coil over shock. That mount is boxed & welded pretty well. It does flex about .040" so adding a piece of 7/8" x .058" tubing as an angle brace is doable if someone wants to do that.

[CJD Automotive]

It does flex about .040" so adding a piece of 7/8" x .058" tubing as an angle brace is doable if someone wants to do that.


Just need this followed up with, "..but totally not necessary, because it won't break or fail as designed!"

Never mind, it broke on Greg's car, so i'll be adding a gusset.

[CJD Automotive]

Couple of pics of the fuel cell bladder before the foam goes in. Had Fuel Safe make this to mount a Holley VR2 pump internal. The VR2 is basically two fuel pumps, so it has two -10 pickups. The Holley pre-filters also mount internal, but are mounted under and accessible by removing the fill plate. You can see the two pickups in the collector box that attach to the filters and pumps. The two smaller pumps are the lift pumps to keep the collector full at all times, under all G load situations. it's an 18 gallon cell, but thinking closer to 17 with all the "stuff' inside.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/20161220_150902_zpspj1mbkoz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/20161220_150902_zpspj1mbkoz.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/20161220_151218_zpse1yjlzs5.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/20161220_151218_zpse1yjlzs5.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/20161220_151203_zpsizz3pnge.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/20161220_151203_zpsizz3pnge.jpg.html)

[syborg tt]

I am guessing that was not cheap and I really like watching this build as I am learning a bunch.

[CJD Automotive]

I am guessing that was not cheap and I really like watching this build as I am learning a bunch.


Glad you like it!

The cell turned out to be "reasonably priced". Funny thing is, Fuel Safe quoted me about half of what ATL did, and they are owned by the same company.

[syborg tt]

The cell turned out to be "reasonably priced". Funny thing is, Fuel Safe quoted me about half of what ATL did, and they are owned by the same company.


your suppose to keep that a secret.

[preston]

Were the lift pump mounts a requested option ? I mean I assume they are not standard.

I looked up that VR2 pump - holy cow are you really planning on more than 2200hp in this thing or put another way why didn't you just use the VR1 ?

Thanks for the tip on Fuel Safe vs. ATL.

Another thought not directed at you but someone looking at this setup - I was using saddle tanks and I used the "passive" pump from a late model Vette to continuously pump fuel into the primary tank (same as OEM vette). You could use a similar strategy here in fact I think that's what the OEM's do in the last gen Camaro and Cadillacs (pump into a reservoir with a passive pump). I'm not sure how you would run two of them though, not sure they could work that way.

Looking good !

[CJD Automotive]

Were the lift pump mounts a requested option ? I mean I assume they are not standard.


No, not standard! I went over what I was wanting to do with there engineer and this is what we came up with. IMSA, Nascar and Arca use a similar set of lift pumps as well with the EFI setups.


I looked up that VR2 pump - holy cow are you really planning on more than 2200hp in this thing or put another way why didn't you just use the VR1 ?

I am turbocharged, so I built an engine capable of a sustained 1800 HP for Bonneville and Mile events. It will NEVER see that on the street or road course/autoX. I can "adjust" the output between about 550-1100 for different venues. This is one of the reason my car is a bit of a pig. Aside from needing a beefier cage, the driveline has to handle the top power level, so much heavier components are needed for more than just a road course/autoX car.

[Bakaruda]

:trophy-1302: WOW!

[LateralJeaz]

Anything new with this one?

[out2kayak]

I am turbocharged, so I built an engine capable of a sustained 1800 HP for Bonneville and Mile events. It will NEVER see that on the street or road course/autoX. I can "adjust" the output between about 550-1100 for different venues. This is one of the reason my car is a bit of a pig. Aside from needing a beefier cage, the driveline has to handle the top power level, so much heavier components than needed for just a road course/autoX car.

Have you decided what transmission your going with given the max possible engine output and the targeted duties for the vehicle (track and street)?

[CJD Automotive]

Anything new with this one?


Little bit, got the front on and some support bars in.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1420_zpsabllf8h0.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1420_zpsabllf8h0.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1436_zpshrelia0r.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1436_zpshrelia0r.jpg.html)http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1422_zpsivk6fq00.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1422_zpsivk6fq00.jpg.html)

I notched the existing frame structure to accept the 2x3" rails of the clip. The car is locked down, so made careful measurements and cuts to fit everything nice and tight.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1424_zps67jjeuof.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1424_zps67jjeuof.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1425_zpsgogybgzo.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1425_zpsgogybgzo.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1435_zpseibnrnif.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1435_zpseibnrnif.jpg.html)

So after fitting, took some measurements and everything was way off. WTH? Turns out Ron sent the front blueprint with a different ride height than everything else. So back out, lower the sub and fix and fill in all the careful cutting and fitting, then refit. Lots of time wasted here.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1459_zpsnpyi4nzb.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1459_zpsnpyi4nzb.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1460_zpsepzc7dwi.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1460_zpsepzc7dwi.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1566_zps5sn7pq5o.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1566_zps5sn7pq5o.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1567_zpsszmu7vfv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1567_zpsszmu7vfv.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1587_zpsndgw0dhw.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1587_zpsndgw0dhw.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1575_zpsocnlmyl8.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1575_zpsocnlmyl8.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1579_zpsyrushkqd.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1579_zpsyrushkqd.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1580_zpsv8juzrcn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1580_zpsv8juzrcn.jpg.html)

[URL=http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1590_zpsyhnlpdml.jpg.html]http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1590_zpsyhnlpdml.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1589_zpshjytcrqd.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Have you decided what transmission your going with given the max possible engine output and the targeted duties for the vehicle (track and street)?


Yes, I'm using a PPG sequential 6 speed.

[MSTSFabbed]

Good Heavens....

:bigun2:

[rustomatic]

This car is reaching the point where, when it's done, seeing it (preferably in action) will be on par with a major celebrity sighting. Keep adding the awesomeness!

[preston]

At one point I made the decision to stick with 315's on the front of my car as I'm not that competition oriented and 335's would have forced a lot of compromises on the inside or created visually obnoxious fender flaring.

These photos of 335's on the front of your Cuda make me question those decisions !
Looks so awesome.

Also, you have a few holes in your firewall you need to patch :)

[Centerforce]

This is looking downright MEAN! Nothing gets us riled up like the rough-looking freshly-caged phase of a racecar. :wow:

[Flash68]

Dominant

[CJD Automotive]

This car is reaching the point where, when it's done, seeing it (preferably in action) will be on par with a major celebrity sighting. Keep adding the awesomeness!

Thanks, not sure it will ever have celebrity status, but I think the older cars will always draw far more attention than the newer ones. Promise if you see it, it won't be at a car show, I will be beating on it!

[CJD Automotive]

Also, you have a few holes in your firewall you need to patch :)

Yep, had to cut out the old cage and get access to weld in the new bars. I am keeping the stock firewall, so will go back and make new patch panels once I figure out where everything is fitting...

[CJD Automotive]

This is looking downright MEAN! Nothing gets us riled up like the rough-looking freshly-caged phase of a racecar. :wow:

Thanks, "rough" is the operative word right now!

[Vince@Meanstreets]

That is coming along nicely. Sub and tires look right at home in there.

[JohnJ@RideTech]

Coming along nicely! Should be a beast when its done!

[CJD Automotive]

Thanks guys!

Few more of the cell structure, haven't welded it in yet.


http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1622_zpsrgr1zsfh.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1622_zpsrgr1zsfh.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1633_zpssxnsk3xb.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1633_zpssxnsk3xb.jpg.html)

Got my Mopar horder friend to give up a 'Cuda core support off a junk car. Just using the top piece. It locates the fenders and lets me mount up the stock latch, etc...

I built the jig on the front clip, before cutting it off, to be able to locate the core support and hinge location. I sold the clip complete, so couldn't hack any
pieces off it.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1631_zpsty5h5y43.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1631_zpsty5h5y43.jpg.html)

[Ron Sutton]

Craig, your fuel cell cage is looking good.

I see you keep the side fuel inlet. Is it plumbed to a 6x6 collector with 3 trap doors?

[CJD Automotive]

I see you keep the side fuel inlet. Is it plumbed to a 6x6 collector with 3 trap doors?

Does 4 doors, two lift pumps and dual fuel pumps count? ��

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/20161220_150902_zpspj1mbkoz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/20161220_150902_zpspj1mbkoz.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Got a little smarter and starting putting pieces in epoxy before welding them in. Got the fuel cell as close to the watt's pivot as I can and still allow access, and as low as practical without bottoming out on it. Was hoping the cell would have been a little further forward for crash protection, but as it is, the outer cage is about 1-1/2" forward of the rear crossmember. I think I'm going to add a crash bar/hoop on the rear, extending down and behind the cell with two angled kickers back to the frame. This will also serve as the the adjustable attaching point for the diffuser. Not sure if it's necessary as this "exposed" area is already pretty low. Have to think about that and get a few opinions.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1642_zpscb0mzmrz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1642_zpscb0mzmrz.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1643_zpso5t7rkww.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1643_zpso5t7rkww.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1644_zpsujvjh742.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1644_zpsujvjh742.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1645_zpsw9wjo0ux.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1645_zpsw9wjo0ux.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1648_zps3zkfkzti.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1648_zps3zkfkzti.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1649_zpsnxjl49ik.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1649_zpsnxjl49ik.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Jumped back to the front to put in the upper coil over adjusters. Made a telescoping mock up shock gauge with some scrap DOM. This ensures the adjuster is inline with the control arm mount. The little offset pieces for the adjuster is a piece Ron sells. Makes life easy in that you don't have to notch the tube. The tape roll is simulating the spring to make sure it is centered in the upper control arm.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1674_zpsthwqivqj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1674_zpsthwqivqj.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1675_zpsybqjlfpn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1675_zpsybqjlfpn.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1680_zpsnla3cdqh.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1680_zpsnla3cdqh.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1689_zpsxmjzv9eq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1689_zpsxmjzv9eq.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1702_zpsbgpzreis.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1702_zpsbgpzreis.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1679_zpswblwgyub.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1679_zpswblwgyub.jpg.html)

[preston]

Or you could have just used a mockup shock and spring :)

Kidding, I know the right parts are not always available when you need them.
Looking good.

I've always though E-bodies were the wickedest looking of muscle cars but in the past nobody was able to do them right - stance too high, tires to narrow. Even Sick Fish didn't quite get it perfect. In fact one reason the G-Cuda blew me away because at the time it was the first one I ever saw that truly sat right. Around that same era Bobby Allison made on that was pretty cool too I don't know if it has a name.

Seeing this thing swelled out and low and knowing it can back it up is going to be awesome.

[preston]

Hm I see Ron has you putting the shock witha fair bit of side view tip back, it seems to be lined up with your caster/anti-dive angle - must be at least 1.5" behind FACL on the chassis mount ?

I'll have to ask him about that as he put mine pretty straight up and down from the side angle.

[CJD Automotive]

Or you could have just used a mockup shock and spring :)

Yes, but i want the adjuster perfectly inline with the shock so the jack bolt pushes straight down and not off at an angle. If I used a shock, I have to fight the pivot of the upper bolt and mount to the adjuster, making it very difficult to keep everything vertically inline.

Ron copied this tool and now sells it in his catalog. I guess my question is, how does someone who has built race cars for 30 years not already thought of this and made it? This is the first time I built something with an adjustable coil over mount, and knew in about 5 minutes I needed something to keep everything in alignment.

[ur-n-8]

Yes, but i want the adjuster perfectly inline with the shock so the jack bolt pushes straight down and not off at an angle. If I used a shock, I have to fight the pivot of the upper bolt and mount to the adjuster, making it very difficult to keep everything vertically inline.

Awesome build! And very good idea^

[CJD Automotive]

Hm I see Ron has you putting the shock witha fair bit of side view tip back, it seems to be lined up with your caster/anti-dive angle - must be at least 1.5" behind FACL on the chassis mount ?

I'll have to ask him about that as he put mine pretty straight up and down from the side angle.

Yep, been a few people with Ron front ends that have noticed difference between what they have and mine. Remember these are built different for each car. My track width is pretty wide, so my control arms are longer than most. I assume geometry takes precedence and the coil over simply mounts how available. In my case, the lower coil mount is a pretty good ways out there, and it becomes a matter of simply mounting the coil over where the spring clears the inside of the upper arm. I know the angles and will calculate my spring rate once I have it done and scaled.

[68EFIvert]

I love the build. You are doing a gear job with the car. Ron is making me a front suspension for my Volvo 1800 build. It is quite a bit narrower than most so it will be interesting if it changes shock angles or anything else.


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CJD Automotive]

I love the build. You are doing a gear job with the car. Ron is making me a front suspension for my Volvo 1800 build. It is quite a bit narrower than most so it will be interesting if it changes shock angles or anything else.

Been following your Volvo build. Really like seeing something so different. You've done a great job with the mods that enhance the look instead of changing it.

[syborg tt]

I hate this thread so much

Every time I get a notification I scramble to get what I need done so I can come look at this thread.

God I love this thread

[CJD Automotive]

I hate this thread so much

Every time I get a notification I scramble to get what I need done so I can come look at this thread.

God I love this thread

Well, thanks! Same old same old, fit tubes, weld tubes, repeat. Got some cool stuff coming though!

[preston]

Well, thanks! Same old same old, fit tubes, TIG weld tubes, repeat. Got some cool stuff coming though!

Fixed it for ya !

[preston]

Any updates ?

[CJD Automotive]

Few updates, been swamped with customer cars, so mine takes a back seat as usual!

Had to look back at what I have already posted, and left off at the fuel cell cage. Made the hold down structure:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1944_zpsnkzyfbgr.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1944_zpsnkzyfbgr.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/fullsizeoutput_1257_zps369bpdhb.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/fullsizeoutput_1257_zps369bpdhb.jpeg.html)

Then started building the seat structure, which requires a few floor mods:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_2480_zpsrs75xjkr.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_2480_zpsrs75xjkr.jpg.html)

And at that same time, fit the trans and engine. The driveshaft doesn't clear the top of the loop, so I have to cut it out and extend it.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0088_zpsb6qwxskb.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0088_zpsb6qwxskb.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0094_zpslnmxtrhm.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0094_zpslnmxtrhm.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0099_zpsz9emcewf.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0099_zpsz9emcewf.jpg.html)

Which required a new tunnel:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0360_zpsokmbbey4.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0360_zpsokmbbey4.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0355_zpsbib7laan.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0355_zpsbib7laan.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0356_zpskqcxaroh.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0356_zpskqcxaroh.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0372_zpsuamjfbrw.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0372_zpsuamjfbrw.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Then built the seat structure and seat mounts:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0044_zpsp9gt1kvc.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0044_zpsp9gt1kvc.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0053_zpsybrq90zv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0053_zpsybrq90zv.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0003_zpsc7erzgck.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0003_zpsc7erzgck.jpg.html)http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0045_zpsuwtcupnx.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0045_zpsuwtcupnx.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0080_zpsyk2pkibe.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0080_zpsyk2pkibe.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0081_zpsf89jr7ty.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0081_zpsf89jr7ty.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0320_zpsioxavszj.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0320_zpsioxavszj.jpg.html)http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0348_zpssi27wii7.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0348_zpssi27wii7.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0374_zpsc98pbvu1.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0374_zpsc98pbvu1.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0403_zps5ewdubz3.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0403_zps5ewdubz3.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0404_zpsjtgkbkr5.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0404_zpsjtgkbkr5.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0405_zpsvurv8nkq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0405_zpsvurv8nkq.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Built the oil tank mount:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0394_zpsbaojojep.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0394_zpsbaojojep.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/d1ydAnmKSOugcDmMU1qEQ_zpsfrbalekz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/d1ydAnmKSOugcDmMU1qEQ_zpsfrbalekz.jpg.html)

And the column mount. Of course a bar is right where I need to mount the clamps to center the column to the seat, so made this standoff piece:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/fullsizeoutput_11b4_zps9y5egvrw.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/fullsizeoutput_11b4_zps9y5egvrw.jpeg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0428_zpsb9gaojyr.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0428_zpsb9gaojyr.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0429_zpsjbaorywr.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0429_zpsjbaorywr.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0485_zpskxtpyfeu.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0485_zpskxtpyfeu.jpg.html)

Then on to the pedal mount:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/y9zcIT4FQQmVoJIrEKgMSg_zpsm9uigldc.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/y9zcIT4FQQmVoJIrEKgMSg_zpsm9uigldc.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/LT64CuswSRyG6kUxwIGGkw_zpsqh5fhyoh.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/LT64CuswSRyG6kUxwIGGkw_zpsqh5fhyoh.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/vSxL4RWFRxiJECVPcvoXg_zpsapgvag4k.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/vSxL4RWFRxiJECVPcvoXg_zpsapgvag4k.jpg.html)

I made the mount will multiple holes, slugged and welded, to allow fore/aft adjustment. You'll notice the column is "inside" the mount with the brake pedal to the left side. This is to allow me to spread the pedals a little wider and keep the accelerator far enough away from the trans tunnel to clear my big ass feet:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/UeaAIH97TgGSmH57FDyJQA_zps88on07um.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/UeaAIH97TgGSmH57FDyJQA_zps88on07um.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/KGlJbhPcTMGBI5NfDWLQ_zpsq5ah2trn.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/KGlJbhPcTMGBI5NfDWLQ_zpsq5ah2trn.jpg.html)

The line on the yellow tape is the seat centerline. I set the column and brake pedal to this line. I have the pedals spread for my size 12 4E clown feet!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/33nmY46QzqJinTwsJYiPA_zpsqwrdx8ef.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/33nmY46QzqJinTwsJYiPA_zpsqwrdx8ef.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/g24XDy5jT06IPxrTOC8Vw_zpshugvaih3.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/g24XDy5jT06IPxrTOC8Vw_zpshugvaih3.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

A few things I've had machined.

The first is the ABS tone wheels to fit on the RSRT and Speedway Engineering hub:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_7912_zpsxlcg3loq.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_7912_zpsxlcg3loq.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_3315_zpsinjbnu2i.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_3315_zpsinjbnu2i.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_3779_zpsgfqumnbd.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_3779_zpsgfqumnbd.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_1399_zpsjhogymiv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_1399_zpsjhogymiv.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0213_zpsqhltohl1.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0213_zpsqhltohl1.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_4518_zps8clhycsk.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_4518_zps8clhycsk.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Rear hubs:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_2308_zpswgb3vqil.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_2308_zpswgb3vqil.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_2314_zps5tjkymzp.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_2314_zps5tjkymzp.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_2316_zpspj2woufd.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_2316_zpspj2woufd.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_2322_zps3r6u6eie.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_2322_zps3r6u6eie.jpg.html)

And some wheel spacers. I had Ron supply dimensions for the hub bore to my wheel manufacture when they were building my wheels, but unfortunately he provided the spec for steel wheels. This left me with a rear wheel hub bore about .030" from being hub centric for the drive plate . Talked to Speedway Engineering about turning down the drive plate hub. They told me I could take a 1/4" off without affecting strength! Only needed about .030, so had the drive plate turned down and a steel sleeve pressed on. This solved two problems. Number one, it makes the wheel hub centric, and number two, it allowed me to have hub centric spacers made, but to also pilot the wheel with the maximum thickness spacer. No this wasn't a cheap fix.

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/fullsizeoutput_1258_zpsfjp42nep.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/fullsizeoutput_1258_zpsfjp42nep.jpeg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/fullsizeoutput_1259_zpsokag5mmt.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/fullsizeoutput_1259_zpsokag5mmt.jpeg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/fullsizeoutput_125a_zpslcbx4jrx.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/fullsizeoutput_125a_zpslcbx4jrx.jpeg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

I'll post up some more later if Photobucket will play nice and let me load some more photos.

[Ron Sutton]

Nice fab work Craig. I love the fuel cell cage top with the angle cut top pieces. Nice touch !!!

[CJD Automotive]

Nice fab work Craig. I love the fuel cell cage top with the angle cut top pieces. Nice touch !!!

Thanks, I'm sure I copied it from something I've seen!

[Flash68]

Bitchin. The drab green and black look great together.

[CJD Automotive]

Bitchin. The drab green and black look great together.

Don't forget the fade.

It's Florida and humid as hell. When I finish a section or after I make a part to be welded in, I put it in epoxy.

[68EFIvert]

Beautiful work Craig. I was down in Orlando late in July and almost drove up to see the car and introduce myself in person. Your thread gives me inspiration for my Volvo build.

[CJD Automotive]

Beautiful work Craig. I was down in Orlando late in July and almost drove up to see the car and introduce myself in person. Your thread gives me inspiration for my Volvo build.

Thanks Darreld. I hope that inspiration isn't work on everyones car but your own!

Your car is really turning into something special. Can't wait to see it with the body and paint complete.

Anytime your this way, you are more than welcome to come by. Always here...

[jarhead]

How did you bend/form that tunnel after the bad were in it?

Thanks

[CJD Automotive]

I didn’t! That’s why I used straight beads. Ran in through my slip roll and then through the bead roller with the table off.

[jarhead]

I didn’t! That’s why I used straight beads. Ran in through my slip roll and then through the bead roller with the table off.

good to know, I was really scratching my head on that.

I don't have a slip roll but I could try an argon bottle, then the Mittler.

Think I'll try a test piece or two in smaller scale.

Thanks!

[Peter McMahon]

Just read all the way through this, I love it! Seems like you had some blueprint issues? I used to have a 70 Swinger 340 auto so I have always been partial to mopar . Keep at it!

[CJD Automotive]

Just read all the way through this, I love it! Seems like you had some blueprint issues? I used to have a 70 Swinger 340 auto so I have always been partial to mopar . Keep at it!

Thanks. We'll just say "issues".

Started back on it, time to build headers. Everything about this is going to be a fight for space.
I want the turbo's high enough to drain (don't want to mess with a sump, another pump, check valves, etc), but far enough back to help with weight distribution.
This leaves me very little options for mounting, so a pocket in the firewall is my only option. This will necessitate cold side plumbing in the cowl, and water-to-air intercoolers behind the dash.
The first hurdle is going to be the long (for a turbo application) tube headers. Okay, second hurdle, first is this is a Mopar that no one makes a flange for. I sent Aaron Oberle the measurements and an idea of how I wanted them and he responded with a very trick file:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/IMG_0686_zps4rhn8z63.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/IMG_0686_zps4rhn8z63.jpg.html)

Couple of tweaks back and forth and ready to be made. Dropped off some 1/2" 304SS to the water jet guy and got these:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/fullsizeoutput_134c_zpsamj74gr4.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/fullsizeoutput_134c_zpsamj74gr4.jpeg.html)

I grabbed my scrap when I picked up the flanges because I had an idea...

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/56254387325__8C864DEE-3543-49A5-9F80-8F7C1570E955_zpsuwngr43o.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/56254387325__8C864DEE-3543-49A5-9F80-8F7C1570E955_zpsuwngr43o.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/m9KTTrzITRGWsHVDLQhv0Q_zpszdxv02jt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/m9KTTrzITRGWsHVDLQhv0Q_zpszdxv02jt.jpg.html)

This slug is a perfect match to the port profile, and will make a nice forming tool. I reduced it's perimeter by about 0.050" to account for tubing wall thickness, rounded the edge that gets driven into the tube, and polished to keep it from grabbing. Drilled a hole (calibrated eyeball must be off center) and added a handle to have something to beat on!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/zApnU1ZLSmhuKRqXDODiA_zpssv3s8kct.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/zApnU1ZLSmhuKRqXDODiA_zpssv3s8kct.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/iT0cqlGfTTiwX7mGijyMjA_zpsmc0spzlv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/iT0cqlGfTTiwX7mGijyMjA_zpsmc0spzlv.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/ZASQRiPpTDysGbP6H7n7nA_zpswraozefz.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/ZASQRiPpTDysGbP6H7n7nA_zpswraozefz.jpg.html)

I formed the tube, slid it in the flange and formed it again:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/K5yy7wHpRfGZkZL6Iohflw_zpscbwgqojt.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/K5yy7wHpRfGZkZL6Iohflw_zpscbwgqojt.jpg.html)

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/AV1xa9rETe6eOa23xEStUg_zpsdbctlvcw.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/AV1xa9rETe6eOa23xEStUg_zpsdbctlvcw.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/vYvARhkSimBZGEch9NUlA_zpswjkmwguo.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/vYvARhkSimBZGEch9NUlA_zpswjkmwguo.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/G592Ox5aQLGFwvuTvaWVOA_zpsreeopqhv.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/G592Ox5aQLGFwvuTvaWVOA_zpsreeopqhv.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/FhObzEieTb6dP1UQdlFspg_zpstolb9it7.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/FhObzEieTb6dP1UQdlFspg_zpstolb9it7.jpg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

Pretty happy with the transition:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/e6NI7vddTcWdbMGWxkiCAg_zpstf6vflfg.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/e6NI7vddTcWdbMGWxkiCAg_zpstf6vflfg.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/oyQUJ3kQu2OsFaiJgY5WQ_zpsfkrlsavw.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/oyQUJ3kQu2OsFaiJgY5WQ_zpsfkrlsavw.jpg.html)

Thought I would give the ICE kit a try and see if it made the job any easier. I've always built 321 SS headers by first mocking them up from steel and then transfer to stainless. Just too expensive to screw up a 321 SS tube.
My space is so tight, seemed like a great time to try it:

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/N45bNj9FSZCWglGWYEuXow_zpsc7atreu8.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/N45bNj9FSZCWglGWYEuXow_zpsc7atreu8.jpg.html)

So the easy part...need to have spark plug access, be able to remove the valve covers, clear a 335 tire at full lock, clear the coil over, clear the steering linkage, and last but not least, run equal length, long (for a turbo) primary tubes, using only 3" circle bends, that exit between the tire and firewall to mate to the turbo. I've laid this out at least 5 times, so going to give the kit an A on time savings. I stopped caring what it looked like and just concerned with everything clearing and primaries the same length. This is the first example of when all that came together, not the prettiest layout, but meets the "design criteria"!

http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/XdVEqHUS6ulr7mihP9FAw_zps3nkvk5qg.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/XdVEqHUS6ulr7mihP9FAw_zps3nkvk5qg.jpg.html)
http://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/Uqr1EbTrGynJTx8tZIYw_zpsn0vmgtut.jpg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/Uqr1EbTrGynJTx8tZIYw_zpsn0vmgtut.jpg.html)

[DBasher]

Great work, Craig! Glad to see you back at it and moving forward.
:thumbsup::flag2:

[rustomatic]

Thanks for making the prettiest header flanges in the world--the world needed that. Seriously, it's great to see that you are back working on this beast. Sites like this one are seriously lacking in substantive contributions, and your tool-making stuff is the kind of awesomeness that really adds here.

You're probably already aware of this already, but your pipe routing is sounding like it will go in the direction of Mike DuSold's Camara (purposeful mispelling), which is also a twin-turbo setup, with the turbos located right around the footwells. This sounds creepy thinking about it, but hey, it's working for him, and his car is awesome, for a Cameero (purposeful misspelling).

For really cool and purposeful turbo routing/intercooling (single, not twin), check out Paul Faessler's Mustang setup (limits passenger butt space, but whatever): https://grassrootsmotorsports.com/articles/break-maiden/. Faessler's son road races a late-model setup that I think has twins, but I'm not sure (Google). Keep at it!

[Tinker]

Craig, this build is awesome to follow. You definitely have some mechanical skills and a keen sense for engineering. I hope the worst phase of the project is behind you so you can stay driven to see your vision to it's completion.

Just a question on the header flanges, which look fantastic. Are you familiar with reversion? In my experience (which includes according to my wife "way too much time" working with my flowbench) the trend is to make the exhaust tube larger than the head exit. Usually the upper 2/3 of the port will match for high speed flow, but if the tube is left round, there will be a step at the floor of the tube. During operation, the exhaust pulses will travel down the exhaust tube, reach the end and turn around (over and over diminishing). This is reversion, and these pulses can carry spent gasses back into the chamber reducing VE. The step helps block these pulses from re-entering the cylinder. Is this not a concern for turbo cars, or are you more concerned about WOT performance?

[CJD Automotive]

Thanks for making the prettiest header flanges in the world--the world needed that. Seriously, it's great to see that you are back working on this beast. Sites like this one are seriously lacking in substantive contributions, and your tool-making stuff is the kind of awesomeness that really adds here.

Thanks, just always looking for a better or easier way to do something. Most of the time I don't find it and waste a bunch of time!

You're probably already aware of this already, but your pipe routing is sounding like it will go in the direction of Mike DuSold's Camara (purposeful mispelling), which is also a twin-turbo setup, with the turbos located right around the footwells. This sounds creepy thinking about it, but hey, it's working for him, and his car is awesome, for a Cameero (purposeful misspelling).

I had more room to mount them low, would have made header layout easier, but didn't want to deal with a sump and another pump for just the turbo's. You also have to use a check valve on low mounts as the oil wants to drain from the pan or tank into the turbo when the engine isn't running. Mine are about midway on the firewall, giving me enough slope to drain oil back to the pan.

[CJD Automotive]

Craig, this build is awesome to follow. You definitely have some mechanical skills and a keen sense for engineering. I hope the worst phase of the project is behind you so you can stay driven to see your vision to it's completion.

Thanks. Yes, had to walk away from it for a little bit, but back on it.


Just a question on the header flanges, which look fantastic. Are you familiar with reversion? In my experience (which includes according to my wife "way too much time" working with my flowbench) the trend is to make the exhaust tube larger than the head exit. Usually the upper 2/3 of the port will match for high speed flow, but if the tube is left round, there will be a step at the floor of the tube. During operation, the exhaust pulses will travel down the exhaust tube, reach the end and turn around (over and over diminishing). This is reversion, and these pulses can carry spent gasses back into the chamber reducing VE. The step helps block these pulses from re-entering the cylinder. Is this not a concern for turbo cars, or are you more concerned about WOT performance?

Yes, reversion is a big deal on turbo cars! I've been working with Burn's Stainless on the header size/length and shape. They recommended a smooth transition from port to primary with no step or lip.
I believe the long primaries are more key in the reversion scenario, but does go against conventional wisdom for turbo headers. I trust that they know best, it's what they do, and I've seen the data on spool time with short vs. long primaries. Just look at the Mazda turbo road car, high compression turbo car that only works because of a long tube primary manifold.

[Tinker]

Yes, reversion is a big deal on turbo cars! I've been working with Burn's Stainless on the header size/length and shape. They recommended a smooth transition from port to primary with no step or lip.
I believe the long primaries are more key in the reversion scenario, but does go against conventional wisdom for turbo headers. I trust that they know best, it's what they do, and I've seen the data on spool time with short vs. long primaries. Just look at the Mazda turbo road car, high compression turbo car that only works because of a long tube primary manifold.

This makes total sense. A step into the exhaust tube would slow the gases down at that point. A smooth transition will keep gas speeds up to help with spooling of turbos with long tubes.

Thanks Craig, now I learned something today too.
Keep up the fantastic work. I'll be following

[Flash68]

Glad you are back on it Craig. Gitter dun!

[CJD Automotive]

Glad you are back on it Craig. Gitter dun!

Thanks, trying!

[CJD Automotive]

I have never addressed my working relationship with Ron Sutton throughout this build. I was just going to let sleeping dogs lie (or die), and let the timelines and pictures be everyones guide.
That changed when I (finally!) got an email from Ron with the setup specs for my car. He included a note blaming me as a major influence to Greg Weld for "killing his business reputation". So in part, blaming me as well.

Let me start by saying that when I read Greg’s post about Ron and his experience, I had these crazy mixed emotions. The things Greg wrote, I had wanted to say publicly for years, I was elated, living vicariously through Greg for someone finally calling him out and saying that you can't treat customers like this. Then it changed to panic. I'm going to loose all the commitment and support I paid for, and was promised, to set this car up. But at the same time, I felt relief. Finally, no more feeling like a hostage. I could now tell people how Ron has treated me, about the quality of parts and service, and how many things went wrong. And that's a good place to start. What went wrong from the beginning.

I ordered and paid the complete front clip assemble, shocks, and complete rear kit with housing, somewhere in September of 2015. This included the new Stoptech brakes being released in, “about 6 months”.
I was told about 3 months for the front clip to be built and delivered. I was under the impression that these had been tested, proven pieces, but came to find out they had not. Customers would be doing ALL the R&D work, as Ron had never built nor tested any of this. That included the brakes and pretty much every other part Ron designed and sold. Mike Dusold was the first R&D tester, and had two suspension failures before replacing the suspension with his own design.

Start of the delays. Was told’ “super swamped”, “SEMA”, “bad cold”, etc… and before you know it, it’s mid-January and I’m not any closer than mid September. He did start working on it at that time, because he called to tell me JRi had a New Years price increase and that I would need to pay the difference. Wait, how does your time management issue require me to pay more money?! He failed to meet the timeline he gave me, and as a result, I am now responsible for the price increase? Whatever, called JJ at JRi and he let me have them at last years price. Thank you JJ. This is a call Ron should have made, not the customer. This is was my first indication that I made a bad decision purchasing Ron’s “stuff”.

Ron tells me I’ll have the clip in April of 2016. Great. April comes and with it, more excuses, “had to switch shops”, “part delays”, etc.. Said he will send the rear rails and parts, and to start there. Great. Frame rails show up about May 1st 2016. I cut everything out and start to install them. First issue. I’ll refer you to the build thread for description and pics. Build the back to the print. Another issue with the X brace in the print. Have to cut part of it out. Ron tells me whatever I want to charge for the fixes, he’ll pay. He never did.
Get all that fixed and ready to install the rear axle. It showed up mid August of 2016 (either 8 or 11 months after ordering/design, depending on where you want to start counting from). Ron had me send my stand alone E-brakes and brackets to him so Speedway could install them. They did, for a 12” rotor and I have 13’s….that Ron spec’d. Ron tell’s me I can pay to send it back to Speedway to be fixed or he will pay to have it done locally. He never did. More of this “quality and attention to detail of working with an expert”. I also get my 3rd member. I ordered a Strange Pro case with billet yoke. He sends me a Ford case with cast yoke. Sent it back and got the one I paid for. Also doesn’t have the inner tube seals. He sends those. Couple of weeks more delay with all this, but ready to mount this thing. The rod ends for my rear control arms are the wrong size. Ron sends the new ones. Go to mount the shocks and they won’t mount to his tabs. Called Ron and was told JRI changed the mono bearings and I needed the old style. Really? You knew this and just going to wait for me to call when I needed them? Ron sends those out. This all eats up weeks to months of time. I finally get the rear suspension mocked up and wait for the front clip. It shows up about the end of October 2016 (either 10 or 13 months after ordering/design, depending on where you want to start counting from). Great. Clean and put it in epoxy. Then I notice the sub standard welds or just plain missed welds (pics in build thread) and call Ron. He tells me, “It’s racecar quality, not show quality”. Hmmm, wow, I was told this was the best clip available and you sure charged accordingly. Guess poor welds were free, but QC not included.
During this whole time, I keep inquiring about brakes, and keep getting told, “A few months”.

Okay, bad stuff behind me, lets get the clip installed. Cut and fit and ready to tack it in, but something doesn’t look right. A few measurements and something is wrong with the suspension location. Contact Ron and find out he supplied the front blueprints at the wrong dimension from ground plane. He corrects this and sends me the new print. Pull the clip and lower it to the correct location, but not before fixing where everything was notched too high. I get it tacked in, but at this point I’m a year in with not much to show. I was expecting to be done by now, not still receiving parts and fixes. This is the part that Ron simply doesn’t care about. I’d schedule a week to work on my car (yes, this cost me money!), find an issue like the front clip height, contact Ron, wait a day or two for a response, another for a fix, and Presto, my scheduled week is gone with nothing accomplished. This was a recurring theme, find an issue, contact Ron through text or email (won’t answer the phone), get a text or email response stating he is busy and will get back to me in a few days. Just so frustrating!!

Greg had stated that Ron builds a dependency of the customer into everything he sells. I cannot agree more. If I emailed or texted Ron any questions, he would ALWAYS not answer one. So you go through the wait/time cycle and ask again, and again. My absolute, all time most irritating thing that Ron does!!

I learned after a year of waiting, to not ask when the brakes were going to be ready. He would simply not acknowledge you ask the question, nor answer it.
And since I brought up the brakes, let’s talk about that.
I was told in the beginning the delays were due to a new piston size Ron had spec’d, and that Stoptech was manufacturing them. We will come back to that in a minute.

Ron calls me(!) to take some measurements off my housing for the brake brackets. Can’t remember exactly, but sometime in early 2017, I think. This seems strange, why do you need my measurements, don’t you have a housing at your place your doing the R&D with?
A few months later, the brakes show up, almost 2 years after ordered, and can’t wait to mock them up. I start with bolting the hat to the rotor, but the bolt hole in the hat is too small to allow the bolt to pass through. I check them all, and same thing. Call a guy that just got his too, and same thing. Call Ron, and tell him. I ask, did you not assemble a set or verify any of this? I was told he had a display set for SEMA, and an employee put it together and must have forced them in. WTF? Sounds like an excuse, but if not, you’r not going to assemble and verify your own stuff. Oh wait, customers get the privilege of paying to do Ron’s R&D. So Ron sends everyone new hats and rotors, with the holes simply drilled larger. Didn’t need that hard anodize in the bolt hole anyway… front’s bolt on, but the rear brackets have the incorrect stud length. Call Ron and am told new brackets will be available in a few months. Again, not testing or verifying anything, just send it out and let the customer figure it out.
That brings me back to the caliper and Ron’s new piston sizes. Turns out, the caliper’s use the same piston sizes that Stoptech has always offered, nothing new. So the only “optimized” part is that Ron designed the hats and brackets for different applications…the hats with incorrect bolt sizes and the brackets with the incorrect length studs. Waited almost two years for that. Awesome.

It’s fine, in the past, let me throw my expensive mono block wheels on and see what it looks like. Front and rears are not hub centric, WTH? Call up the wheel manufacture. He pulls up the dimensions of the center hub, a dimension that Ron supplied him, and it’s exactly what Ron spec’d. Ron pulled the spec from Speedway Engineering that they provide for their hubs to their Nascar customers, you know, the guys that run STEEL wheels. So now I have a wheel with too large a center bore, but not by enough to make any kind of spacer ring, just be too thin. This required turning down the drive plate and pressing on a steel sleeve (pics in the build thread).

So at this point, I’m beyond frustrated with Ron. I purposely stop updating my build thread, as to not advertise for Ron any more. Really wanted to pull the thread down, as to not have anyone else buy this stuff from Ron and have to go through the same thing as me. I don’t publicly say anything, because as stated earlier, afraid of not getting the setup help when I do get this finished.
I had several people PM me about doing something similar with their builds, and I tried my best to talk them into the Speedtech clip.

I’m still working on it when I get time, but don’t really make time anymore. I’ve fought this for over a year and need a break. Took 6 months away to work on other stuff and started back by mocking up the driveshaft to start the seat install.

Then another issue. Ron is adamant this is my fault, even including it in his last email, “I see you are still blaming me online & in the back channels of communication for errors in the blueprints for your build. If you're referring to having to cut out your driveshaft loop ... you caused that when you changed the height of the transmission tailshaft.”
First thing I got from this was totally ignoring all the other issues he is aware of and only singling out the driveshaft loop.
Yes, I did change the tail shaft angle, and it did make the driveshaft hit the loop. Why?, well my dimensions are as follows, and mirror my print specs. Crank centerline is about 9” from the surface plate, the loop center is 4.5” from the surface plate, and the pinion is about 6.75” center from the surface plate. So yes, I could tilt the tail shaft down to run through the loop and connect the rear, although very close with the 3.5” diameter shaft, but the working angles on the shaft were really bad. When I ask Ron, he said, “Don’t worry about the working angles, that’s for street cars, not race cars”. Well I am worried about it, and cut and extended the loop to compensate. So technically my fault for wanting a proper working angle on the driveshaft.

At this point, late 2017/early 2018, I’m getting really burnt out on this. Every time I go to do something, it’s another issue with something RSRT related. This was supposed to be the easy part, and everything else was going to be, and is!, difficult. So just needed to take a break from it again. Any part of this being fun is completely gone. I no longer look forward to working on it. I’m so much money invested, I definitely need to finish it, and will, but need to get fired up and re-motivated. I’m getting there, and have recently started working on it again as of late 2018. I’m now in the difficult part of packaging everything for function, and important to me, form.

So if your hanging out to see it get finished and driven, hang tight, i’m working on it again!

Before I put a period on this, I want to apologize to anyone that chose to work with Ron based on my build thread, and then had a bad experience as well. I should have been posting my issues all along. I was just so much money invested that i was scared I’d be “cutoff” from the setup help. I know a few others that still are, and refuse to say anything bad about Ron, although they have had very similar experiences. I know now, that I won’t get the setup help I paid for, and honestly, I’m finally okay with that. Dealing with Ron over the years has been the absolute worst experience I’ve ever had, and to prolong that, would just be more of the same.

[Flash68]

Yep. Nothing was ever Ron Sutton's fault. Nope. Nada. :smiley_smack:

Thanks for posting that Craig. Onward and upward.

[GregWeld]

Great post Craig.....

I just dropped off the Dirt Missile and have already gotten a ball park guesstimate of fixing all the crap that is so obviously wrong with it.

Was funny — first thing the guys do is lift off the POS hood... Then notice right away that the plumbing is a disaster.... Mind you.... I’ve not so much as spent 10 minutes looking over this car. It was RON SUTTONS build — his “guys” working on it at my shop.... I stayed completely out of the way. Frankly — watching them was too painful to be interested....

Now — NOBODY but his builders (they’re not really builders at all) have touched this car. First thing one of the guys notices is that the front brake line (driver side) is almost cut thru... yeah - the routing of it puts it touching the inside of the wheel rim... about 2 more laps and the car would have no brakes....

They attempted to plumb some kind of PCV but it’s a dry sump motor.... you don’t run a PCV with a dry sump.... then they notice the cooling system plumbing — oh and the fact that the serpentine belt is misaligned - and that the dry sump system itself isn’t plumbed correctly.... and well.... this is all in the first 3 minutes of just looking it over.

Guesstimate for labor — about 300 hours

Motor is cooked — his wiz bang top notch tuner dude.... yeah - not so much... the 2000* coating on the headers is completely cooked off in a couple cylinders....

Oh - and then they pull a valve cover — yeah - more problems.... So on top of the 300 hours — the motor needs a rebuild. This was (note the was) a $30,000 Ron Sutton Secret sauce motor.... it has about 20 laps on it. Come to find out - Sutton sent parts to Scoggins Dickey for them to build the motor — but like everything else the ass ever did — they’re wrong....

Had dinner with Nick Relampagos (good auto-crosser and EX Sutton customer) and Nicks motor came from Sutton — he won’t even use it in his wife’s car.... LOL

Synopsis? My $200,000 Track Warrior —- needs $50,000 worth of wiring - plumbing - different parts that actually work - and that’s not touching the body issues.

Trust me when I tell you — Sutton is going to have some California tax issues... And now I hear he’s going to start up his business again. I’m thinking he probably ought to start preparing for a stay at the penitentiary instead.

[CJD Automotive]

Thanks guys,

I know I should have posted this stuff a long time ago, and for sure when Greg posted his ordeal.

No Limit Rob said I am partly to blame for not saying something sooner, and while I had reasons for not wanting to, he's right, I am. I own that.

People need to know, that what Greg did was because of how Ron treated customers like me (there are plenty of us), and to keep anyone else from having to suffer through the same ordeal. Thank you again, Greg.

So closing the chapter on that book. Somehow putting that behind me has motivated me to finally finish this thing up.

[GregWeld]

I’m hearing Sutton has sent around an email saying he’s back in business.....
Funny, I must not be on the mailing list. I haven’t seen a copy of it - but will.... and I’m sure it’s nothing more than marketing.

Let’s see how many people ignore what we’ve been saying and choose to use the dickhead.

[Tinker]

Craig,
If your spindles are like mine, make sure you do the update to your spindles.
It's not labor intensive, but definitely worth doing.
I posted before and after of mine just for reference.
:lol:

[Musclerodz]

Craig,
If your spindles are like mine, make sure you do the update to your spindles.
It's not labor intensive, but definitely worth doing.
I posted before and after of mine just for reference.
:lol:

what is that 3/8" plate????

[Tinker]

what is that 3/8" plate????

The spindle upright? It's 5/8 plate

[fleetus macmullitz]

I’m hearing Sutton has sent around an email saying he’s back in business.....
Funny, I must not be on the mailing list. I haven’t seen a copy of it - but will.... and I’m sure it’s nothing more than marketing.



I thought of Craig’s thread and your post Greg when I saw this today.

https://i.postimg.cc/fRG3CkmD/55249667-8-A09-46-F5-9304-8-D2-C9-CEA0987.jpg (https://postimg.cc/nX1ccF3P)

:shakehead:

[ur-n-8]

^Jumbo shrimp

[Peter McMahon]

Keep at it Craig, onwards and upwards

[Che70velle]

Tinker, that spindle mod is hilarious!
Great to see this build moving forward finally!

[GregWeld]

Tinker, that spindle mod is hilarious!
Great to see this build moving forward finally!

Same “MODS” I made when I went back out to Cali — anything and everything with that BOZO’s name or logo went straight to where it belonged all along....


THE TRASH CAN

[CJD Automotive]

I was able to get a copy of the email Ron sent out, and thought I would share it...with the appropriate translation.



I'm excited to announce I'm going to continue my business on a smaller scale, offering tech services & a full line of chassis, suspension & brakes.

Because the "larger" scale business is in bankruptcy

It will be just me. So I will be working with a smaller group of clients I chose to work with. Those of you that have worked with me for a few years, know I can be slow to respond as I get buried with projects. I'm going to take on less projects & work on improving my response time, but it still can take a week or so sometimes. Please be patient with me. If you need quicker responses, I'm probably not a good fit.

People just beating down the door to work with you, I bet. So if your lucky enough to be "chosen" by Ron, you'll be rewarded with one week response times when your issue comes up with his stuff. Wow, sounds great, sign me up

I'm not "open for business" yet. I still have to move & set up my inventory, as well as re-setup credit card processing. It will probably be the 2nd week of December before I'm "up & running".

Take this as he hasn't finished with the bankruptcy on the previous business. He got paid for parts he was drop shipping, but is not paying the vendors for the products he sold, instead filing bankruptcy. Needs to set up credit card processing in the new business name and start this all over again...

7 Key things coming:
1. I will be running "Holiday specials" in December & January. I'll email you once I'm "open for business" with what they are.

Will be from vendors he actually paid


2. No Workshop tour, trade shows or track displays. I hated being away from my family 12 times a year, so I'm eliminating those.

His sponsors paid him to maintain his sticky forums and to do the workshop. No more sponsors, means no more workshop, trade shows, track displays. Yeah, this was his decision...

3. I am launching my own blog & forum website where you can learn & ask tech questions online. I'll email you when it is "live."

He was removed as a forum sponsor by LateralG and Pro-Touring. Because he can no longer sell on these sites or get paid to maintain his forum stickies, he will just make his own. What a guy, just giving back...

4. Mid-January, I will update my online catalog to show we no longer sell engines or turn key cars. But we will continue to sell rolling chassis, build-your-own Track-Warriors, Clips, etc. Otherwise, my entire product line will be available.

This means because he didn't pay SDPC Raceshop for previous engines, had engines built for customers without the parts that were spec'd and paid for, no one will build or sell him engines. As to the no longer selling turn key cars, well, kinda built only one and it was a disaster.

5. I am adding a new line of suspension packages I call AutoX-Star, as well as a lower cost weld-on Track-Warrior front clip package.

This means his Howe copy stuff will only be twice as expensive than from other vendors, instead of three times more.

6. Also in the updated catalog will be a lot of new trick parts for building up your muscle car with factory frames & clips.

Brought to you by the same fab shop that built Greg Welds Dirt Missile...

7. I will be adding a ton of "Tech-Helpers" & better instructions to help with your build.

But do "tech-helpers" and instructions help when you screwed up the design originally. No amount of instructions or tech helpers would have helped with the mistakes you made on my parts


I hope you & your family have a wonderful Thanksgiving. Best wishes !!!

Ron Sutton

[CJD Automotive]

Got the header laid out, cut, and fitted. Took some time! I'm using 321 stainless, so even the tacks have to be back purged.
Got all the primaries within 1/2", cleared everything, including the tire at full turn and compression. Also have good access to the plugs and flange bolts.
These actually can be removed with the engine in. You do have to play a little Tetrus, but I've done it a few times now!

https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header1small_zpskfkkmlnb.jpeg (https://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header1small_zpskfkkmlnb.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header2small_zpsh9rbbcml.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header2small_zpsh9rbbcml.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header3small_zps788uewbw.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header3small_zps788uewbw.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header4small_zps5i1bwzp6.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header4small_zps5i1bwzp6.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header5small_zpsfb9bvhma.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header5small_zpsfb9bvhma.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header6small_zpsa4j6mlny.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header6small_zpsa4j6mlny.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header7small_zpslfxmp5yl.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header7small_zpslfxmp5yl.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header8small_zpswsleqdjk.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header8small_zpswsleqdjk.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header9small_zpsrjp1xmmr.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header9small_zpsrjp1xmmr.jpeg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header10small_zpspw2kyyon.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header10small_zpspw2kyyon.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header11small_zpsnjtdqfny.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header11small_zpsnjtdqfny.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header12small_zpslqshgjql.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header12small_zpslqshgjql.jpeg.html)


The headers are swept back to clear the brace for the coil over. I threw a piece of lego in to show where that goes.


https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/header13small_zpsodfhgvja.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/header13small_zpsodfhgvja.jpeg.html)

[CJD Automotive]

These pics are showing ridiculously huge on my computer. Still posting with Photobucket the same, so don't know what's going on.

[ur-n-8]

A couple hours in those. 👍

[craig510]

Those are some cool headers. Nice work!

[68EFIvert]

Great job with those headers Craig!


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[CJD Automotive]

Fixed the picture size issue, I think...are they showing normal size now?

[CJD Automotive]

Need to finish welding them up and start making the other side.

https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/resize1_zpsjaedtkhv.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/resize1_zpsjaedtkhv.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/resize3_zpsfkd21p47.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/resize3_zpsfkd21p47.jpeg.html)
https://i1060.photobucket.com/albums/t445/340cuda/resize2_zpswc8spfhk.jpeg (http://s1060.photobucket.com/user/340cuda/media/resize2_zpswc8spfhk.jpeg.html)

[RKROEGER]

They look right on my screen. Also look amazing! Lotta work there.

[Flash68]

The last 3 pics posted look good size.

And the car is coming along.

#NoMoreSauce

[CJD Automotive]

The last 3 pics posted look good size.

And the car is coming along.

#NoMoreSauce


Okay, now I know what to resize to. Sucks that I have to process before uploading to FB.

Thanks, 100 degrees in the shop and now I'm working on it...

[130fe]

Looks good Craig. Might try and drop by the shop on Tuesday if you are going to be around.

[CJD Automotive]

Looks good Craig. Might try and drop by the shop on Tuesday if you are going to be around.

Yep, always here or on my way back.

[WSSix]

Very nice, Craig. Can they be taken out fairly easily? Keep up the good work!

[rixtrix1]

Looks like a ton of antidive if you leave the upper arms like that. Those headers are amazing. Would take me months just to weld them up, LOL. Nice collectors, Burns
or ? I'm interested to see how the rest of the exh system will run!

[rixtrix1]

Went to your business website. Impressed! There are virtually no shops like that in the Phoenix area I'm aware of, especially that will work on Sprinter vans. The Dodge dealers hate them, Benz dealers wont work on Dodge variants and vice versa,but there's a shop in Casa Grande, about 45 miles south that does all the diesel sprinters for 5 HVAC companies I know( about 150 trucks). The companies hate the distance and travel time, but are at a loss for another solution.

[andre68]

Hi Craig, just finished reading this whole thread. I too run Ron's GT rear and front clip. Already read Greg's thread too. I bought this stuff in 2016 thinking it was the holy grail setup for our old cars. This is my punishment for not staying updated with the threads - I miss out on news like this (regarding Ron's stuff). Will follow this thread religiously to see which of his parts you modify or throw out. (I like how Speedtech modified the LCA in Greg's car). I'd like to salvage anything I can, since those clips weren't cheap....

I can't thank you enough for sharing your experience with Ron, as well as all the details of the build.

I already ripped out the decoupled stuff in the rear and switched to a standard 3 link. I've been scanning the entire internet for feedback from people who ACTUALLY run this rear setup. Talked to multiple people, most notably Tony Ave (who has experience with these in Trans Am). He basically said this design isn't as effective as we all think. His words were "braking stability is much better without it" and "weight and handling changes as it wears".

Also found a video of this setup in a customer car, taking a beating. Anyone know who's car that is? Can't imagine many ppl are running it? Curious how it performed, considering the decoupled setup used in past Trans Am cars was wayy bigger and beefier:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=54&v=t3LCG7Q9nHo

[CJD Automotive]

Looks like a ton of antidive if you leave the upper arms like that. Those headers are amazing. Would take me months just to weld them up, LOL. Nice collectors, Burns
or ? I'm interested to see how the rest of the exh system will run!

Thanks, yep, Burns double slip collectors. Also, had them run the X program for my engine to arrive at a primary size and length. Surprised me on primary length and making life difficult to fit!

[CJD Automotive]

Went to your business website. Impressed! There are virtually no shops like that in the Phoenix area I'm aware of, especially that will work on Sprinter vans. The Dodge dealers hate them, Benz dealers wont work on Dodge variants and vice versa,but there's a shop in Casa Grande, about 45 miles south that does all the diesel sprinters for 5 HVAC companies I know( about 150 trucks). The companies hate the distance and travel time, but are at a loss for another solution.

Thanks, I too hate Sprinters. Expensive parts and difficult to diagnose. Basically, whatever codes you have, the problem is something that didn't code.

[CJD Automotive]

I already ripped out the decoupled stuff in the rear and switched to a standard 3 link. I've been scanning the entire internet for feedback from people who ACTUALLY run this rear setup. Talked to multiple people, most notably Tony Ave (who has experience with these in Trans Am). He basically said this design isn't as effective as we all think. His words were "braking stability is much better without it" and "weight and handling changes as it wears".

I think if you wanted to put in the effort, it could be made to work slightly better than a standard 3-link only because we use 200 treadwear tires. At the end of the day, I'm not willing to chase setup on a constantly moving target.


Also found a video of this setup in a customer car, taking a beating. Anyone know who's car that is? Can't imagine many ppl are running it? Curious how it performed, considering the decoupled setup used in past Trans Am cars was wayy bigger and beefier:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=54&v=t3LCG7Q9nHo

That's Ron Ver Mulm's car. Talked with him about the decoupled setup, and he was working with it. He had to change out the lower link compression spring unit with one that had more spring travel and a higher spring rate. He had to send the upper shock back to Advanced Racing Suspension to have it MASSIVELY revalved, from Ron it has like 20lbs. of compression, which is about useless. I'll be scrapping it as well and just running a 3 link designed by Riggin's Engineering.

[Flash68]

The De-Suttoned 3 link FTW !!

[andre68]

Really? And this guy called himself a shock expert....:rolleyes:

I was ready to throw the decoupled unit in the trash until I found out Derhaag motorsports is running a dampened accel link on their TA car. Maybe down the line I'll modify the accel link to the extent that Ver Mulm did and test it on a track day, since it bolts right in place of the standard 3 link bar....it would be nice to have something cushion the "hit" on acceleration....

BTW appreciate the detailed photos on the ICE kit, I'll be purchasing that soon

[CJD Automotive]

I was ready to throw the decoupled unit in the trash until I found out Derhaag motorsports is running a dampened accel link on their TA car.

You got any pics of that? Curious how they have it setup.

[andre68]

Unfortunately no, can't find pics anywhere. Tony Ave is the one who told me when responding to my question regarding the decoupled 3 link in TA racing:

"It was made illegal at one time and in the meantime it has since sort of been ignored since the systems we use now do not require the dampening, although I believe Derhaag still runs on accel.

Braking stability is much better without it, and i use the accel load in a fashion that the dampener actually hurts performance.

We do not carry any of that stuff anymore"

[Flash68]

The De-Suttoned 3 link FTW !!

Really? And this guy called himself a shock expert....:rolleyes:



Hopefully you know I am kidding. :)

When I say "De-Suttoned" I mean that, like Weld and Speedtech did, one has taken the "decoupled" out of the equation and made it a standard 3 link. :thumbsup:

[frojoe]

Hi Craig, just finished reading this whole thread. I too run Ron's GT rear and front clip. Already read Greg's thread too. I bought this stuff in 2016 thinking it was the holy grail setup for our old cars. This is my punishment for not staying updated with the threads - I miss out on news like this (regarding Ron's stuff). Will follow this thread religiously to see which of his parts you modify or throw out. (I like how Speedtech modified the LCA in Greg's car). I'd like to salvage anything I can, since those clips weren't cheap....

I can't thank you enough for sharing your experience with Ron, as well as all the details of the build.

I already ripped out the decoupled stuff in the rear and switched to a standard 3 link. I've been scanning the entire internet for feedback from people who ACTUALLY run this rear setup. Talked to multiple people, most notably Tony Ave (who has experience with these in Trans Am). He basically said this design isn't as effective as we all think. His words were "braking stability is much better without it" and "weight and handling changes as it wears".

Also found a video of this setup in a customer car, taking a beating. Anyone know who's car that is? Can't imagine many ppl are running it? Curious how it performed, considering the decoupled setup used in past Trans Am cars was wayy bigger and beefier:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?time_continue=54&v=t3LCG7Q9nHo

Seeing how much the pinion angle changes relative to the rear axle suspension travel... holy crap. It's dumb luck that the splines didn't pop out of the driveshaft!!

[andre68]

Hopefully you know I am kidding. :)

When I say "De-Suttoned" I mean that, like Weld and Speedtech did, one has taken the "decoupled" out of the equation and made it a standard 3 link. :thumbsup:

Lol yes your De-sutton comment made me laugh. I was referring to the previous comment from Craig about having to re-valve everything. I forgot to quote him in my post!

Seeing how much the pinion angle changes relative to the rear axle suspension travel... holy crap. It's dumb luck that the splines didn't pop out of the driveshaft!!


(in Rons voice) “Don’t worry about the working angles, that’s for street cars, not race cars” :lol:

[GregWeld]

Okay, now I know what to resize to. Sucks that I have to process before uploading to FB.

Thanks, 100 degrees in the shop and now I'm working on it...

Start using Tapatalk or whatever it’s called — SO Much easier to upload photo straight up the the post..... Use their “medium” size —

Lat G has always been a POS to upload photos to - and it’s a shame because the forum is all about sharing info and photos speak a 1000 words.

[GregWeld]

The ONLY REASON to use this rear end suspension was so Sutton could create dependence.... he was well aware of the type of people he was preying upon.... knew that by selling the most complicated POS he could find on the internet would make you beholden to him.... nobody else around is going to help you... it’s his “M.O.”

Talked to a guy running an arrive and drive operation the other day — telling him the story of the “NOT SAUCE” — the minute I mentioned his name —- the guy raises his hand to stop me — says “I talked to him a couple times — he has no clue what he’s talking about but man can he act like he is all Mister Race” === then we had some good laughs. This guy knew of his race operation — said straight up — that whole thing was nothing but a scam.

[LS7 Z/28]

Have you had any time to work on this one lately?

[CJD Automotive]

Have you had any time to work on this one lately?

I have. I'll put some pics together and update here shortly.

Thanks

[Chevelle]

Looking forward to seeing updates.

[bradfords_garage]

Excellent build. Wild ride and story, but glad it's behind you. Can't wait to see more progress on the car. I'm currently building my 69 Falcon (may start a build thread) and am anxious to hear your thoughts on the offset three link.

EDIT: I never and do not intend to run a decoupled three link. Just offset. My curiosity comes from recent protest from a friend when I mentioned the offset 3 link, in which he referenced the Mustang 3 link and PHB, where the 3rd link is centered, saying "Ford did that for a reason". Ford also made offset 3 links for a while...my Granada 9" housing has offset 3 link brackets on it, for instance. I also know Mike Mayer believes in them. Just curious if folks around here have come to any different conclusions there yet.

[egoman]

I built mine offset and ran a dirt mod with the offset also. Full-size fords from the 60s to the 80s also ran offset top links. I'm a fan!

[bradfords_garage]

I built mine offset and ran a dirt mod with the offset also. Full-size fords from the 60s to the 80s also ran offset top links. I'm a fan!

Thanks for the response, egoman. Good to know.

Brad

[73Cuda]

Is there a finish thread on this build? I followed this years ago on a different forum then just found this one today! that goes up until 2020. Would love to see the final product and details.

[preston]

Yeah this was always one of my favorite builds ! Love to get an update.

[CJD Automotive]

I've had a few cars get in front of it, but still working on it. I'll put together some progress pics and get the thread up to date...soon-ish!

[CJD Automotive]

So a few people have ask, so I guess I'll dig through some pics and see if I can get this thread a little more up to date.

Last update was the headers. They are finish welded, and happy to say removable with the engine in place. They do allow access to plugs and flange bolts. To complete those, I added EGT and O2 bungs to each primary:

https://i.imgur.com/foDbnObl.jpg

If you're wondering why have both EGT and O2? The O2's will be used during initial tuning to trim cylinder-to-cylinder fuel balance. They won't live very long pre turbo due to the heat. Once the cylinder trim is complete and all individual cylinders are at lambda, the O2's are removed and capped. The EGT temp will then become the baseline threshold for each cylinder at lambda.

All O2 sensors are pressure compensated, meaning they are designed to provide accurate data at roughly atmospheric, give or take a few psi. As back pressure in the header increases (with a turbo), the pressure will skew the O2 data and that has to be compensated for. There are a couple of ways to do this, start with an ECM capable of pressure data conversion, a stand alone O2 controller that does the conversion internally and busses the massage to your ECM, or the ability to write your own maths table in the ECU and have the O2 data. Having the pressure offset data for each make and model O2 is critical, so you have to see which O2 each method supports.
The ECM I am using does this internally, so all I have to do is provide back pressure data.
I just need to feed 800 degree gas to a pressure sensor!
I used a stainless NPT bung and attached a 3' stainless tube to allow the gas to cool off enough that the sensor wouldn't melt.

https://i.imgur.com/1xsVxShl.jpg

Because this pressure tap is in the collector, pre turbo, it sees the individual cylinder pulses, and without some way to smooth these out, the pressure data will look very spiky. At the end of each tube is a pressure spike diffusing can with the pressure sensor on the other end. Basically where the pressure can equalize before being read as data and sent. And as a bonus, a little more heat dissipation. These little guys have stainless mesh inside.

https://i.imgur.com/Y1KeJSyl.jpg

Alright, enough of all that!

With the headers built, I wanted a way to support the turbos, keeping the weight of them off the headers. I hung the turbos off a wire to find the balance point. It just happened to be where the exhaust turbine attaches to the center section. I removed two retainers and made a pattern for a stainless bracket:

https://i.imgur.com/4AwgVuvl.jpg

I then attached a support bar from the chassis with a high temp rod end for the turbo to "hang" from:

https://i.imgur.com/QC2WIIql.jpg

With the turbo's in position, headers where they were, time to connect them all together. The collectors I'm using are double slips, so i decided to use double slips anywhere I needed to exhaust to be able to expand without cracking.

This pipe connects the header to the turbo, with the waste gate outlet. I added gussets to the waste gate flange and V-band flanges on the end to prevent cracking as long as possible:

https://i.imgur.com/9fwdCL8l.jpg

On to the down pipes and waste gates. I'm running electric waste gates controlled by my ECM. I HATE the sound of straight pipe waste gates, so wanted to incorporate them back into the down pipes so they went through the muffler.

You can see a double slip on the waste gate discharge and down pipe:

https://i.imgur.com/9xdf9wWl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/NpbEFBMl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/mWhANkll.jpg


https://i.imgur.com/ZEPZUTal.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/AaLg3Whl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/vQUvM6Al.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/OEwE9iol.jpg

Tough getting in tight spaces!

https://i.imgur.com/mOLJWcLl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/SpyXQytl.jpg

Washers for O2 bungs:

https://i.imgur.com/m4lHMHJl.jpg

[CJD Automotive]

Crazy how long it takes make a post with pics. Let me finish up some things in the shop and then I'll post up the rest of the exhaust, move into the inside and then cover the engine/cooling/intercooler setup in the next post later today.

[CJD Automotive]

Finishing up the exhaust.
The exhaust pipes run down the rockers and exit in front of the rear wheels. They will be enclosed in a rocker box.
I needed a mount that had some flexibility that could be attached from the side of the pipe.
Over the years of working on cars, I always try to catalog useful parts that I might need to use someday. For the mounts, I went with the Viper setup.
I needed to make a nut plate for the body side that the mount could bolt to:

https://i.imgur.com/GNzEBkMl.jpg

This is the Viper mount bolted to the body nut plate I made:

https://i.imgur.com/5sQaoMRl.jpg

Then needed to make a standoff mount from the exhaust pipe that had the mount pins. Made the mount wide to increase the surface area and hopefully prevent cracks. I guess we'll see:

https://i.imgur.com/0xi3605l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/knK1VzDl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/A72tB3Il.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iHS5pPkl.jpg

Then welded the mounts to the pipe.

https://i.imgur.com/14FGgUBl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/5DBDEh2l.jpg

Then attached the forward pipe section in the mounts to check fit. When you tighten these mounts, the silicone rubber compresses and grips the pins from the exhaust.

https://i.imgur.com/M4kR2P3l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ytFMBBbl.jpg

Was happy with the front, so time to add the mufflers. Maybe muffler should be in air quotes. I'm using a pair 4" Pro-Fabrication mufflers (Same ones Burns Stainless sells). They are packable, so wanted them removable for service. I welded on a V-band to the pipe and muffler:

https://i.imgur.com/jc7Xoxkl.jpg

Now to make basically the same mount from the front, for the rear:

https://i.imgur.com/7MDqvdml.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/qjvwsVSl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/zC1ESpkl.jpg

The side pipes are enclosed in a rocker box, so mocked up a few small pieces of aluminum to see what it would look like. The finished rocker boxes with be the full length with just the exhaust tip exposed:

https://i.imgur.com/hjbx8BS.jpg

[camcojb]

Impressive work Craig!! :thumbsup:

[CJD Automotive]

For the engine, I wanted to use a motor plate to mount it. This was going to be tricky because I'm running a 5 stage dry sump with A/C. I'm also running a Viper 180 amp alternator (PWM regulated from my ECM), KRC power steering pump, and a Mezierre billet mechanical pump (universal).

I'm running a Jesel belt drive, and really don't like that 3/4 of the belt is exposed, just hanging out there waiting for something to get in-between the belt and drive, at least that's my fear. I wanted to enclose the timing belt, and had the idea of having a motor plate thick enough to accomplish this. My idea was to have a cover plate that would also mount the water pump. I picked the billet universal Meziere pump because the back is removal, has exceptional GPM flow at idle and full speed, and great pressure. What if the back of the pump could also be the time belt cover? This was my line of thinking. Then this plate could also hold the cam sensor.

Time to figure out if any of this would even work. I started laying out accessories in different configurations until I found one that looked promising. I had to make sure that everything that connects to the different accessories would also clear everything else. I built a quick wood buck I could mount to the engine and hang the accessories from. When it looked good, I measured it out and made a .DXF CAD file, that I then printed. I recut a wood buck to the new printed version and laid it out again. So far, so good.

Now I needed help. I called Aaron Oberle and ask him if he was interested in the project. He was. This was either right before or right after he got his Haas Mini Mill, can't remember.

I sent him the .DXF I made, and I want to thank Jesel and Meziere for providing .DXF files of the Jesel timing cover and Meziere water pump back. This saved a TON of time.
Aaron did his SolidWorks magic, making my Fusion360 magic look like a toddler, and got started. In the meantime, I bought a cheap granite surface block and height mic to start the process of measuring all the accessories. All mounting locations reference off pulley height, overall dimensions, etc.
Once everything was modeled, it was time to see if it would actually fit. I had the motor plate CNC routered from MDF and Aaron 3D printed the accessory brackets:

https://i.imgur.com/F6Ro8Fy.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/tTEnbnN.jpg

I was able to mount all the accessories to the plate and check fitment. Couple of small tweaks and I was good to go, or so I thought. Aaron's machine wasn't big enough to do the motor plate, so I shopped it around to about everyone with no takers. I mean flat out, "Nope, not something we're interested in doing". Okay wow. So Aaron said he would do everything and sub out the big motor plate. And here is what he made:

https://i.imgur.com/z2n2xmF.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/3G4LBx1.jpg

So how this goes together. The Jesel timing plate bolts to the engine. You'll see the funny looking bolts in the top. I had Aaron make those so the plate dowels onto to cover. This not only keeps the plate in alignment, but also lets the timing cover stay bolted and sealed to the engine when the motor plate is removed. The biggest reason is that the cam sensor is attached to this setup, I wanted to be able to service the plate and keep the position the same.

https://i.imgur.com/1oNrzh6.jpg

Then the motor plate bolts through the Jesel timing cover (which is doweled to the block). Had Aaron use O-rings to seal all the parts together. Note the machined in bracket for the crank trigger:

https://i.imgur.com/oSby1sc.jpg

This shows the tensioner that Aaron made. I couldn't find one that would work in the space available, so had to be made.

https://i.imgur.com/Cj8cE76.jpg

And now the timing cover (also doweled to the plate) that started this whole thing. You can see how it incorporates the cam sensor. This is the backside that bolts to the motor plate:

https://i.imgur.com/SuQQnOr.jpg

And the Meziere pump bolted to it's new back/timing cover. Billet timing pointer at the correct depth to actually be on top of the balancer marks!

https://i.imgur.com/EGl8bKU.jpg

From an idea, to a CAD model to finished product. Lots of back and forth trying to get the maximum belt wrap on the accessories. This required 3 idler pulleys and the tensioner pulley. All idler pulleys are Gen 3 Hemi. Never see an issue with them and readily available.
I mounted all the accessories to the plate and then used the height mic off the motor plate surface to check the pulley heights. They were all within .005". So calling that a win!

https://i.imgur.com/zLbHOS2.jpg

Couple of things to note in the pic above. I run water from the pump into the front of the block, as well as between the middle cylinders on the side of the block. The line that runs down from the water pump backing plate feeds those. The plate has ORB fittings so I can pass through.

https://i.imgur.com/brAQvxH.jpg

The little belt routing pic will be laser etched on the bracket.
Speaking of belt, this brings up the pulley situation. Believe it or not, the A/C compressor kinda dictated pulley sizes for everything. I can't change it's diameter, so I had to size the crank pulley to drive it at the correct speed. Once I had the crank pulley size, then I could size everyone else with removable pulleys. Meziere gave me the cavitation speed of the water pump, so had to have Jones custom make that one because they only offered that depth/size in a V-belt. Jones also made my crank arbor and crank pulley. The KRC pulley size keeps the P/S pump out of cavitation, and finally the alternator pulley was changed to match the same ratio as the Viper. Lots of amps at idle!

[DBasher]

Excellent work, Craig!

Thanks for sharing here, make forums great agin, LOL
:flag2::cheers:

[CJD Automotive]

Let's cool this thing. I will have a pretty big heat load due to the water to oil cooler, water cooled turbo's, and water cooled waste gates, so a big radiator is in order. Time to see how big of a radiator will fit. I started mocking up with just cardboard:

https://i.imgur.com/nRmplXPl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ckWwJlSl.jpg

To get the size I wanted, clear the stock grille, and allow for another intercooler radiator in it's own air stream, I needed to lay the radiator down.
I had to cut the frame tails back to squeeze out as much space as possible. I built a removable bar that connects the frame tails to make servicing easier. The rectangular aluminum box is the C&R water to oil cooler:

https://i.imgur.com/UEWPLwAl.jpg

When I found the shape I liked, I built a mockup radiator with the correct dimensions from some scrap square tube aluminum. I also built the mock fans to dimension so I could see if anything interfered:

https://i.imgur.com/3US8zgql.jpg

The plan is to duct and feed the radiator/condenser from the lower valance opening, and the intercooler radiator ducted from the grill opening. Both will converge on exit and pass through a duct out of the hood:

https://i.imgur.com/in3WFTjl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/G3aAaonl.jpg

I had the car rendered (more on that in another post) and here is the hood setup.

https://i.imgur.com/9HodvMYl.jpg

Now that I had a size, I contacted C&R and had them run a heat load calc and verified I was good. They worked up a radiator and sent it to me for approval:

https://i.imgur.com/GdZsFZpl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iAt3RM9l.jpg

I had them add a flange to the inlet side to make attaching and sealing the duct easier. And this is the final product:

https://i.imgur.com/y1javKcl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8W78S32l.jpg

Couple things to note, I spec'd this with 3 12" brushless fans. My ECU can control the PWM (speed) for each fan independently.
I also have a bleed port at the very top to plumb back to the surge tank. The -12 fitting is the oil cooler return.

Time to make it fit. I want the cooling stack removable as a module, I still need to figure out a bumper bar (bumpers are carbon, so need something behind them), and a place for a tow hook. Let's see if I can make something that can do all that.

The radiator sits below the front frame rails, so I needed a mount dropped down that was strong enough to also be a tow point. This bar also attaches to the drop down sway bar tube, adding structure to both:

https://i.imgur.com/Y3A4SoYl.jpg

I had them put 3 grommet bungs on the top and bottom and two on each side. This would allow me to mount the radiator with isolators. So made 3 for the bottom:

https://i.imgur.com/nyhHFk2l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2YdVM4Xl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EUG41gAl.jpg

These get a grommet and weld to the new lower radiator bar:

https://i.imgur.com/NpdOdtRl.jpg

With the tabs in place, I removed the lower bar, epoxied it, and set it up to weld in place:

https://i.imgur.com/pxMnkzsl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/93GzI1vl.jpg

Now that the lower is attached to the frame, I slid the radiator in the bungs and propped it into place. Now I can build the sides and front of the mount. This part can unbolt to allow removal of the radiator and entire cooling stack:

https://i.imgur.com/siCemBAl.jpg

The side pieces that bolt to the radiator bar and frame:

https://i.imgur.com/UoNXjjTl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wPztPJrl.jpg

This mount also becomes the bumper bar:

https://i.imgur.com/nSHp75Bl.jpg

Welded it up, put it in epoxy, and bolted it in place to check fitment. This first pic you can see I finished off the frame tail angles where the crossbar mounts. Second pic I haven't done that yet:

https://i.imgur.com/G9dAgqFl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/wacgZT7l.jpg

Took it back off and added the radiator:

https://i.imgur.com/A2ntc5Il.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2cKd7Tbl.jpg

With the radiator in, I put the fenders and header back on to see how the intercooler radiator was going to fit. Once I was happy with it, I started building the mount:

https://i.imgur.com/SrwahNBl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EYYQjS9l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/oujrJ5Hl.jpg

[syborg tt]

Yep, this is my new desktop



The side pipes are enclosed in a rocker box, so mocked up a few small pieces of aluminum to see what it would look like. The finished rocker boxes with be the full length with just the exhaust tip exposed:

https://i.imgur.com/hjbx8BS.jpg

[73Cuda]

Amazing work there. That motor plate is a work of art all on its own. Thanks for the posts!

[Goosesdad]

Mad Skilz!

[WSSix]

Really glad to see this one still making progress. Freaking amazing build. Thanks for sharing and taking the time to make the detailed posts.

[ScotI]

Really glad to see this one still making progress. Freaking amazing build. Thanks for sharing and taking the time to make the detailed posts.

I'm thinking the exact same. The ideas that some of you guys come up with for packaging the needed supporting pieces is truly impressive. So glad to see this moving forward progression w/the detailed notes to help understand things better.

Thanks for taking the time to document the efforts.

[CJD Automotive]

I'm looking through pics and trying post this is some kind of order. I guess I'll start from the front.
I added a few braces to the down bars in the engine compartment. I built brackets to install a removable spreader bar just above the motor plate. I keyed it so it couldn't rotate, as I needed a place to mount the fuel pressure regulator:

https://i.imgur.com/BbreiAtl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QBBbPmdl.jpg

I also made a removable brace on each side from the frame rail to coil over mount. I need it removable to pull the headers out:

https://i.imgur.com/6oAB12Cl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/EiLSyGhl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HucsYWyl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/MpYPxy4l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/QGGJUDxl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/dXz1NCCl.jpg

To attach the motor plate, I needed a bracket from the frame rail on the passenger side, and from the down bar on the drivers. I wanted to make a bracket the plate could rest on. Made this for the passenger side:

https://i.imgur.com/F1j84y7l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/bP3s19cl.jpg

The driver side was a little trickier because the bar curves back:

https://i.imgur.com/fbFUOoAl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WW8zEjCl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/sqtbsBcl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HWVRtO9l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/WwaDMaQl.jpg

A front motor plate requires a mid plate. Normally these are 1/4" aluminum or 1/8" steel. The Quicktime block saver plate that comes with the bell is 1/8" steel, so just added "ears" to that:

https://i.imgur.com/AvZkR1yl.jpg

With a front and mid plate, the trans mount needs to be rubber. If not, it will crack the case. I already had the drivetrain locked down at the angle I wanted, so grabbed a Viper mount and made a trans mount. I am a huge fan of poster board templates and use them on almost everything I make:

https://i.imgur.com/E9JXvU9l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/HKYO4Z6l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jhIfB4zl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/7wWvJjRl.jpg


My plan was always to run a water to air intercooler. With the turbos at the back of the engine and real estate up front for an air to air unavailable, seemed like the best option. To keep the plumbing short, and not intrude too much into the passenger compartment, I wanted the intercooler in the cowl. First things first, need to connect my intake elbow to the Hellcat 92mm DBW throttle body. I need to push it back slightly to clear the dual fuel rails/lines. I found a company that made a billet adaptor to use the Hellcat TB on different engines. I ask them could they just make it without machining the adaptor holes. They did, and also made me the adaptor on the elbow. So all I needed to do was connect the two with an aluminum tube section:

https://i.imgur.com/zzjpbfyl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/d1Vo1P5l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/R8R1olWl.jpg

Added a Wiggins clamp to the throttle body to attach to the intercooler:

https://i.imgur.com/vwGvYqOl.jpg

I sized the intercooler cores I needed and then made a cardboard mockup to see how it would fit. I'm using two 1000 HP cores. More cooling is always better:

https://i.imgur.com/VatwIKZl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ul3OCusl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/agAOjsml.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2esN3zQl.jpg

Once I found a good place for it where the connections wouldn't interfere with the surroundings, and I could remove it pretty easily, it was time to have it made. I've designed this to be removable from inside the car so you don't have to pull the engine! The plate I have on the outlet is a bulkhead plate that will bolt to the firewall. It's there to seal the intercooler inside from the engine compartment:

https://i.imgur.com/v60n9I7l.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/iX7JM1ql.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8mok3lCl.jpg

The intercooler is attached at the bottom to the tunnel and the top at the cowl:

https://i.imgur.com/zOzSP4Zl.jpg

Once I had it's location nailed down, I could start making the inlet plumbing. I'm using a Wiggins at the core and at the turbo discharge:

https://i.imgur.com/mHXdfiUl.jpg

As I said earlier, the intercooler is separated from the engine compartment. The turbo discharge plumbing needs to come through the firewall to connect to the intercooler. I found these stainless/silicone pipe grommets that are water tight and rated at 500 degrees. This will let the pipes pass through and allow some movement:

https://i.imgur.com/AGB0spMl.jpg

[CJD Automotive]

On to the trans tunnel.
Most of you know Mopars are torsion bar cars. They have a torsion bar crossmember that runs from rocker to rocker. It's about an 1/8" thick and provides a lot of the bodies torsional rigidity. My car utilizes the stock floor, and is basically stock bodied except for subframe connectors and a grafted on front/rear subframe (It would have been SOOO much easier to build a tube frame chassis and just set the body on!).
To install a T56 size transmission requires cutting a section of this crossmember out in the middle. I wanted to tie the crossmember back together with the same strength, and needed to be able to slide the largest diameter of the trans through it. I ended up building this piece after trying lots of different cardboard template:

https://i.imgur.com/fzazLpjl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/ixrUQnBl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9Z9HRgfl.jpg

I then realized I had a problem. I build the rear of the tunnel much earlier so I could build and install the seat structure. I kept it low because I wanted a console. When I ran the seat bar over the driveshaft, I stayed at the same height as the tunnel:

https://i.imgur.com/AP2B61Yl.jpg

This would have been fine, except that with the motor/mid plate, I cannot tilt the engine down to remove the trans. The transmission needs to slide straight back far enough to get the input shaft out of the clutch.
After measuring how far I needed to go back, I raised the seat bar enough to allow the trans to slide through it that distance (with the shifter removed). I then had to cut back into the previous tunnel that amount and a make a removable section that could also seal off fire/smoke. The lower bolts on this panel would be inaccessible with the seats in place, so they bolt in from the underside.

https://i.imgur.com/a6QqiGjl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/i8lNw6Nl.jpg

With that panel done, I laid out how I wanted the tunnel.

I built the pieces that attached to the floor that also attach the removal cover for the shifter. I flanged everything as a fire stop and will seal everything with fire tape:

https://i.imgur.com/YvM2PTUl.jpg

Then I started on the removable shifter section:

https://i.imgur.com/AYA4Esml.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/jD0YrNal.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/Z6nBGLdl.jpg

I added some baffles underneath to attach and seal the Nomex shift boot.

https://i.imgur.com/5t6ryuol.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/hMVYygol.jpg

I made the front of the tunnel section that will connect to the firewall, but needed one more access panel to service the shift rod, reverse cable, and gear position sensor:

https://i.imgur.com/lWELsKEl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/xwshCFSl.jpg

Not sure what the metal composition of the factory sheet metal is, but TIG welding was a no-go. Mig it is.

https://i.imgur.com/HWUBPegl.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/2msdrDzl.jpg

So this is a weird step down tunnel! My console is flush with the last step, so it transitions into the shifter panel level. The side cutout's on the shifter panel become the E-brake lever and sway bar adjuster pockets.
The drop down from the front section will probably get cup holders. This whole thing will be covered in removable upholstery.

And just because you made it this far, here's a couple of renderings of the outside. Not exact, but close enough to build panels and work from, which is what I'm doing now:

https://i.imgur.com/Fj8Q9rp.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/u6jXULa.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/PYP21Jg.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/8B49SwA.jpg

https://i.imgur.com/9K0JtfI.jpg

[camcojb]

That car is sooo cool!!

[ScotI]

Agreed! So cool & love the logic/needs driven fab work. That rendering is freakin' sharp.

[syborg tt]

Well, you are making me want to build another crazy car after watching this build.

[Che70velle]

Just wow. Holy wow!

[WSSix]

That rendering is great motivation. So hot, too.

[CJD Automotive]

I'm getting pretty bad about keeping this thread updated, and even worse on taking pics. Had one of those pic memories pop up and realized I haven't posted on this in awhile. So, some stuff that's been done (some for quite awhile!):

Some of you have seen the suspension pickup failures on the Ron clip, and now it's time to address those:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagebYyOpx.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagebYyOpx.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagecZdHRB.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagecZdHRB.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageO371iZ.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageO371iZ.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I added gussets to the forward, lower control arm pickup point. It now connects to the frame rail and has gussets in the rear and front, in the direction of load.

I sent the exhaust pieces out to be inconel wrapped. While I really liked the clean look of Headershield's process, it is non removable. The big race car teams went this direction to save weight. I am more concerned with being able to remove the shells so I can inspect or repair the pipes than I am about weight. Turbo stuff moves and cracks, not if, but when:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagexrkC9U.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagexrkC9U.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageiUY8Jy.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageiUY8Jy.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagearYS1L.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagearYS1L.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageZb2JUw.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageZb2JUw.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageYxesr0.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageYxesr0.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageCqK6Op.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageCqK6Op.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageHQwMPA.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageHQwMPA.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageMEnDfx.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageMEnDfx.heic?width=1920&height=1080&fit=bounds)

I left the turn outs long so I could trim them once I build the rocker box that encloses the side pipes.





I had been careful all along to just modify the firewall. Because everything was built with the firewall intact, I felt making a new one at this point wouldn't run afoul of any rules if I compete with the car:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageBIwCgU.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageBIwCgU.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


Once the firewall was in place, I could start working on the wipers. With an intercooler in the middle of the dash, a wiper transmission wasn't going to work. My ECU can communicate on the Bosch LIN bus, so I got two Bosch wiper motors. These will be at the outside corners of the windshield and both sweep toward the middle. Once I got the position where I wanted, I had to build a box that was sealed from the inside. My dash bar runs right where this needs to be. I had to build a box larger than the opening, through the opening!

I didn't take any pics of the right side while building the box or wiper motor mount, but here are a few close to being finished roughed in and then epoxy:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage72BPC0.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage72BPC0.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


This one shows the high temperature silicone pipe grommets for the turbo discharge

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage4SpWz7.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage4SpWz7.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


With the cover off

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage8XWlUF.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage8XWlUF.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


Cover on and turbo reconnected

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagekKk9LN.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagekKk9LN.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Here is a front shot showing the right side completed and the left still to do:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageCT88mx.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageCT88mx.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[CJD Automotive]

Couple things in that last pic, the cap on top of the cowl is where you add coolant to the intercooler system. The other is the hoses you see are just mock up to get the lengths needed.

This cap is connected to a tube that is at the highest point of the intercooler (and the entire intercooler system). It is a fill and bleed point. I have a bleed on the intercooler radiator as well.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageIAAQ0r.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageIAAQ0r.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

And this is the back side of the firewall where the intercooler mounts that shows where the discharge pipes go. The entire intercooler assembly doesn't take up much more room than the stock cowl tub did:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage4DUTrR.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage4DUTrR.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


I took some pics of the left side wiper build and this shows building a box bigger than its opening. I couldn't just bend up a box, I had to build it in pieces and assemble inside the hole:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage2FK3RH.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage2FK3RH.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagetQZw1R.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagetQZw1R.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagejVMEz1.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagejVMEz1.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageHkF1qd.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageHkF1qd.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageIuHYqO.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageIuHYqO.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagemubwKg.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagemubwKg.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

After assembled inside, I could then weld it:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageT11Ezi.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageT11Ezi.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage6K6Y0x.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage6K6Y0x.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I need a flange inside the box that the lid can bolt to and help keep water out:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagehE5QCy.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagehE5QCy.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Didn't take any finished pics of this one, but its the same as the other side.

[CJD Automotive]

I had originally planned to mount my coils down by the oil pan. The dry sump hoses and steering quickly made that a non option.
Up top was my only option, but I knew I didn't want them mounted to the valve covers! I made a mount that attached to the strut tower braces that would allow the coils to come off with it:

This is the strut tower brace I'm going to use as a mount:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagewHQYKW.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagewHQYKW.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageDQp7KT.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageDQp7KT.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagefOMvQh.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagefOMvQh.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagem4q69d.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagem4q69d.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagekRCDPK.heic?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagekRCDPK.heic?width=590&height=370&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage37nmWR.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage37nmWR.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

The right side was going to need two coils down low because of how I did the headers (I originally planned them all down low). The front two need to be up top, though:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage6DP5pK.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage6DP5pK.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageZevxn7.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageZevxn7.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageWOgkzA.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageWOgkzA.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagewQ4xha.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagewQ4xha.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagemkY5KR.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagemkY5KR.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

The rear two just needed a little bracket:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageS7pDIl.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageS7pDIl.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageY7bX4h.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageY7bX4h.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageLUjHoo.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageLUjHoo.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

[CJD Automotive]

If you remember the rendering, I am popping out the fenders at the doors. This leaves the area in front of the door exposed to heat, water, wind noise and all kinds of things I don't want. I need to build a close out that mimics the fender profile and door gap. These kinda kicked my butt:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagessBqkb.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagessBqkb.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage6lXsOI.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage6lXsOI.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageYzbLF1.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageYzbLF1.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageX0i0od.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageX0i0od.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageYqV5n8.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageYqV5n8.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagenwkVos.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImagenwkVos.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Didn't get any easier on the other side:


https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageVaOi3h.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageVaOi3h.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageRgKLAG.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageRgKLAG.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageIzUsmY.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageIzUsmY.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

This one shows both wiper motors and covers installed. The hood covers the wipers and intercooler fill

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageotUlfn.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageotUlfn.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Now I can start building the buck for the fenders...

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageXv4yY4.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageXv4yY4.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Made a bracket to mount the ABS. Got it tucked up behind the subframe:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage26ZYf9.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImage26ZYf9.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageDV922a.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageDV922a.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageTrqjAk.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageTrqjAk.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageTE7dMi.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageTE7dMi.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageBHkNfR.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/images/t445/340cuda/tempImageBHkNfR.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)


And with that I'm going to call it. Tired of doing this on the computer!

[camcojb]

VERY nice fab skills. :thumbsup:

[fleetus macmullitz]

Thanks for taking the time to show us this great build.:thumbsup:

[ScotI]

Incredible work. Designing the necessary items to work within the packaging constraints is cool to see & showing what you can regarding how you approach the 'build' portion of each is appreciated.

Very glad to see you're still chipping away @ this. I'll continue watching for future updates as well!

[WSSix]

I'm glad to see you're still working on this beast. Thanks for updating us on the progress!

[syborg tt]

Craig, Holy **** !!

Incredible work and I can't imagine the amount of time you have in the filler panels. I can't wait to see this car in person as it is going to be incredible.

[Aschle]

This thread sucks… I’ve spent my entire Friday night reading through it from the beginning. lol

Wow !!! Amazing work !!!

Jason

[preston]

Thanks for the update. So many "got carried away" projects on this site and the internet but this is probably the most over the top build I've ever seen and I've seen a lot. Glad its still in progress there was a point where I wondered if it had been abandoned.

and holy cow those Inconel wrapped exhaust items - probably cheaper to wrap them in $100 bills albeit quite a bit less effective !

[CJD Automotive]

I've been working on the front end buck for a while now. The rendering was super helpful in helping me layout what I want. With that said, the virtual world and reality sometimes just don't play nice.

The exhaust wasn't built when the render was done, and even if it was, not sure it would have made that much difference. The render also doesn't have the rocker box that encloses the exhaust. I need those parts "kinda" mocked up to see how they intersect with the fender. The lower louvers won't work as drawn, so I've been playing with different iterations to see what I like. I make something, then leave it a few days to take different looks and let my brain stew on it a bit. I'm more of a shape it, feel it, stand back and look at it kinda guy anyway.

So needed a break from that and wanted to complete a project on the car that could give me some instant satisfaction (well, not instant, but a few days completion).

I've ditched the Sutton disaster decoupled 3-link and went with a conventional 3-link. General consensus is to set the upper link 6-8 degrees down and forget it. I'd like a little more fine tune adjustment on it. Multiple hole brackets make pretty big jumps from one hole to the next, something like 3/4-1" depending on who's bracket you choose. I wanted a finer adjustment. I looked at what the drag racers do with the 4 link brackets, and discovered 1/8" adjustments are possible. I called a few of the places that make them, and found one willing to cut me out some blanks for a single attachment and also additional blanks so I could get the width for high misalignment spacers on the rod end. They did a model, looked good, and I got these pieces to weld up:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/2e7634b2-a43c-4e58-be18-1773c36329b5.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/2e7634b2-a43c-4e58-be18-1773c36329b5.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/9443b4e7-5a0e-4d10-b5bf-672ad1ac38de.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/9443b4e7-5a0e-4d10-b5bf-672ad1ac38de.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/a36f260f-4bcf-4a99-a2d2-524f3f1bcb11.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/a36f260f-4bcf-4a99-a2d2-524f3f1bcb11.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Welded them out and ready to attach.


https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/f1c6aaee-f8b1-4d38-bd7d-fcb5b3622174.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/f1c6aaee-f8b1-4d38-bd7d-fcb5b3622174.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/4d603eab-f775-4570-9891-ba7fb84e94ba.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/4d603eab-f775-4570-9891-ba7fb84e94ba.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

The older I get, the uglier my welds are. Didn't feel like pulsing over the top to make them all pretty!

[CJD Automotive]

I am also installing adjustable sway bars, but first let me preface this.

I've had race cars, and swore that my next would be a street car. Combine that with the fact that when I'm at the track, I don't want to work on my car. I also don't want to drive a race car suspension to the track. Adjustable sway bars can solve that. More specifically, dual bar adjustments will solve that.

I looked all over the internet for a splined sway bar end with an adjustable blade. Saw CAD models, but not anything real and able to be bought. Tarett and Rennline make beautiful billet aluminum pieces for the Porsche platform, but nothing I could adapt. Believe me I tried!

With no other option, I bought the barrels that are supposed to be welded directly to the sway bar, as well as the blades (spec'd to my car) and started cutting stuff up.

I cut off the spline end after making the barrel at the angle I needed:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/8ccceb48-f667-47bb-b986-172308c81f7c.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/8ccceb48-f667-47bb-b986-172308c81f7c.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I then used 1/4" steel to build the front, back, and sides. I put a big bevel on the arm side that took a root and 2 cover passes. I beveled the barrel side and welded all front and back:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/08e6ecca-18c7-4589-8443-eff8765023c1.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/08e6ecca-18c7-4589-8443-eff8765023c1.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/971e66fb-f85d-4ef8-a08e-c178e016d351.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/971e66fb-f85d-4ef8-a08e-c178e016d351.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Once everything was welded up (took forever so as not to distort the barrel), I started grinding and filing. Here's a few pics almost done, had to weld up a few pockets that bugged me. The radius is all weld!

https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/9efd6616-98c5-4601-864e-9c594817e852.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/9efd6616-98c5-4601-864e-9c594817e852.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/47ce2b30-53eb-4198-b437-2588061cf2f8.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/47ce2b30-53eb-4198-b437-2588061cf2f8.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/6c0642db-cbaa-47bd-8027-bee804e12ce0.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/6c0642db-cbaa-47bd-8027-bee804e12ce0.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

Installed them to double check tire clearance and verify I got the angle right:

https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/78b0b389-f0f6-4781-b66b-71f8b8ca331b.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/78b0b389-f0f6-4781-b66b-71f8b8ca331b.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/e33dc68c-6fd8-4a3d-9b83-3b3fe09ab116.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/e33dc68c-6fd8-4a3d-9b83-3b3fe09ab116.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)
https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/f5296d0d-4e4e-4f5c-8791-8657b9f54471.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/f5296d0d-4e4e-4f5c-8791-8657b9f54471.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I have lever/cable actuators to adjust each blade individually.

https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/4b5a1f0f-f015-4b51-a819-4522e06fe7e8.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds (https://hosting.photobucket.com/085bf730-ddd1-45b2-91c5-4c895ee38a3b/4b5a1f0f-f015-4b51-a819-4522e06fe7e8.heic?width=960&height=720&fit=bounds)

I can also connect the bell cranks on the blades to feedback linear actuators. I can move them with an H bridge driver. I could then run trim pots on the wheel and adjust the sway bar and receive position on my dash. Probably won't go that way, but is an option.

[camcojb]

Nice work. :thumbsup:

[fleetus macmullitz]

Wow…very impressive.:thumbsup:

[ScotI]

^^ Agreed! ^^

[SBDave]

Very cool!!