New member, familiar car

[SSChef]

Hi everyone,

My name is Steve and a friend recommended this site to me. I have a few classic car projects and one in particular I found on this site.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=47562&highlight=nascar+falcon

I purchased this car and drove it around for a bit. Fun car with tons of power. A couple things i didn't like was the rear end noise and it had a big vibration over 60 mph.

Putting the power to the ground took its toll and broke a few parts. The suspension needed some attention and luckily a local shop was able to get it sorted.

While in the shop he suggested we turn to a pro-touring/g-machine look instead of the drag race feel it had. I was all for it since its primarily a street car.

First step was fixing the rear suspension and a wheel tire package that will compliment the car. Stock looking body with a reliable suspension package.


The lower wishbone rod end snapped while I was going through a clover leaf. Not fun. Took out the quarter panel and 335 tire. During the inspection he found a few potential issues. Easily fixed. :G-Dub:

Since the car has massive tubs and a back half we started from scratch. Cut out the outer wheel houses so he can move the tire out closer to the body. The Falcons quarter panel shape makes it tough to do. He pretty much has to reshape the quarter and still keep it looking original.

He determined the rod end broke when the wishbone contacted the frame rail. He said that the car has a lot of body roll and a few components get close during long sweeping turns. The lowers actually hit.

[SSChef]

First order of business was to figure out how much tire we can stuff in there.

The shop had a set of Forgelines in the display area. I like them so much that I made an offer. They were a set that the Ring Brothers used for mock up on one of their fords and I am a huge fan of their work. The Fairlane is a big inspiration for this car.

The sizes are 18x10 front and 19x12 rear running 275/35/18 and 325/30/19. Its going to take a bunch of work to get it right. Especially on the front. Its tight up there.

Back to the first step. Cut out metal and keep fitting.

First section is the rear since there is so much damage there to start and the car is stuck on the rack. The shop is tight for space and cars have to at least roll to keep the owner happy.

[SSChef]

With the rear clear we can start cutting the front so we can fit the 18x10 275's which i'm told is not possible. There is a bunch of body panels in the way. If its hitting, move it till it stops hitting. Then go a little further.

Torque box left and right. Cut!

Battery tray bulge. Cut!

Steering box bulge. Cut!

Frame rail pinch. cut!

Wheels are in. He says that was the easy part.

Trial fitting the wheels and tires exposed a few more spots to cut out. The front fender lip, that needs to go. He has a trick to cut them out and replace them with 3/16" cold rolled steel for reinforcement to maintain the fender shape. Looks like he will add a slight bulge to it since we may need it.

[SSChef]

On the rear, when the suspension let loose the tire went into the front of the quarter and buckled it up pretty bad. We found out that the section is full of rust.

We may do a reshape to gain more tire clearance but we won't know till we get the full suspension in and travel tested. He wants to move the wheel rearward with longer links before that happens.

He will be reshaping the rear arch to give us a fluid tire space. The factory quarter starts tight, comes out then comes back in tight. Its almost a 2" difference.

[Try2paz]

cool car, love the Falcons! I saw the car when i stopped by that shop. It's beautiful! Any thoughts on doing some road course days?

[WILWAXU]

Great car! Love the updates.

[rustomatic]

Thanks for being brave. This car deserves to be made right; by that, I mean fully functional. It's always such a pain to see how people address paint and cosmetics before addressing full-force functionality. It's good to see that you were at least not injured . . .

It's hard to believe that someone expected that wishbone thing to address lateral movement, especially with the force of those huge tires. It's also important to be suspect of suspension linkage that is wrapped with Dynamat. Every time we buy one of these things, there's always a new set of not-so-funny problems to address. I'm sure Ron Sutton has a million good ways to securely locate the quick change rear.

Here's to seeing this car in action some day!

[SSChef]

cool car, love the Falcons! I saw the car when i stopped by that shop. It's beautiful! Any thoughts on doing some road course days?

Thank you, not sure. Maybe just auto cross for now.

[SSChef]

Great car! Love the updates.

thanks, its a body that is not customized much.

[SSChef]

Thanks for being brave. This car deserves to be made right; by that, I mean fully functional. It's always such a pain to see how people address paint and cosmetics before addressing full-force functionality. It's good to see that you were at least not injured . . .

It's hard to believe that someone expected that wishbone thing to address lateral movement, especially with the force of those huge tires. It's also important to be suspect of suspension linkage that is wrapped with Dynamat. Every time we buy one of these things, there's always a new set of not-so-funny problems to address. I'm sure Ron Sutton has a million good ways to securely locate the quick change rear.

Here's to seeing this car in action some day!

If it had happened 5 min earlier it would have been very bad. It reminded me of the blues brothers, go through hell and the car falls apart a few seconds after they park it.

The car handled as my mechanic described as a "fat girl on a skate board". Another problem he diagnosed for me was a very strange vibration over 50 MPH, he believes the past techs were trying to get rid of it by adding weight and dampening. Dyna mat all over the links and driveshaft. He found the transmission was tail down close to 5 degrees. The rear was also down 3 degrees. He said in order to fix that the trans tunnel and cross member will have to be redone to give us the proper drive train alignment. His goal is 0 degrees on the trans and -2 on the rear end. Then adjust from there.
The car also rode very hard. VERY!!
We found 800 LBS springs in front and 500 LBS out back. Going to switch to 550 front and 200 rear. He will reduce the rear shock angles to do this.

Funny you mention Ron, he supplied a lot of the parts we used.

There was talk about doing a 3 link but we ended up with a parallel 4 bar with a frame mounted watts link. He has done a few of these with great success and its explained that its better on a 70% street, 10% auto X and 20% cars and coffee car.

Using Ridetech brackets, Ridetech coil overs, Spohn's narrow spherical's rod ends, Ron Sutton watts components, grade 8- 3/4"/ 5/8" hardware, All star performance links, QAI tube adapters and 1 1/4" .120 wall tubing and 3/16" custom brackets throughout.

I didn't like the gear noise coming out of the Williams rear so we are going with a Moser 9 housing custom fit along with 33 spline axles and true track 4:11 N center. Should be fine and quieter for me.


here is the preliminary fitting. He ended up putting in another pair of parallel 2x3 .120 runners to mount the lower links 2" out on each side to make the links sit out wider. This will put the coil overs closer to the tires. not sure why he wanted to do it but I am trusting his actions. He added a few details to sit lower if I go air-ride in the future.

Now that he has his info he can sit on his computer and go over his 4 link calculator.

[SSChef]

Going back to suspension choice and design.
Ron Sutton is a great resource and a bucket full on knowledge. You guys are lucky to have him in your community.

The shop already had a proven set up but did some tweaks based on Rons thread. This helped us gain a nice range anti squat % and the right roll range. It allowed us to reduce the spring rate and not have to rely on a rear roll bar. All together make a smoother and greater handling car in all areas.

Thanks Ron!!!

[rustomatic]

That Falcon will feel like a new car after this work is done--that's for sure.

If the stock trans tunnel is still present, that was undoubtedly part of the reason for the downward-facing rear and trans. Rather than doing what's required, which is removing/raising the whole tunnel for driveshaft and transmission clearance (at low ride height), people make unreasonable compromises like the ones you've encountered. Such ideas of course result in horrible function . . . We've all got to learn somehow.

The car should soon work as good as it looks!

[SSChef]

That Falcon will feel like a new car after this work is done--that's for sure.

If the stock trans tunnel is still present, that was undoubtedly part of the reason for the downward-facing rear and trans. Rather than doing what's required, which is removing/raising the whole tunnel for driveshaft and transmission clearance (at low ride height), people make unreasonable compromises like the ones you've encountered. Such ideas of course result in horrible function . . . We've all got to learn somehow.

The car should soon work as good as it looks!


That's what he said when I told him there was a T-56 in it. He asked me if the tunnel was stock, I said yes I think so and he said "than it isn't right". LOL

He ended up cutting the tunnel and the full factory crossmember section out. It was hacked into anyways.

With the tunnel removed he then got to work on the cross member. Original part was from Speedtech and he shortened it.

[SSChef]

After all was set in place the rear tunnel section hit and had to be removed. *notice the dyna mat on the shaft. 3 layers.

[SSLance]

*notice the dyna mat on the shaft. 3 layers.

What the hell... :twak: Amazing what people will do to bandaid a problem.

You are in good hands with advice coming from Ron. Having the coil overs out near the wheels lets the shocks react quicker and sometimes can change the motion ratio to allow you to run a softer spring rate. I so want to incorporate a Ron inspired watts link setup onto my car...someday.

Nice job on fixing the car right, it should be completely different once back on the road.

[SSChef]

What the hell... :twak: Amazing what people will do to bandaid a problem.

You are in good hands with advice coming from Ron. Having the coil overs out near the wheels lets the shocks react quicker and sometimes can change the motion ratio to allow you to run a softer spring rate. I so want to incorporate a Ron inspired watts link setup onto my car...someday.

Nice job on fixing the car right, it should be completely different once back on the road.

Yep, once he had the tire space clear he was able to determine that there was enough room to put the shocks between the frame and the tire. Estimates 3/8"- 1/2" between the lower shock mount and the tire. He's looking for more as he explained that since the shock and tire move in the same arch we still have to account for wheel and tire flex.

Having the fabricated rear frame rails makes his job a little easier. Most of the Ridetech parts will work perfectly.

"Reduced cosine and location will allow us to drop the spring rate by a lot. We will play with different rates. You should be looking forward to a soft nice handling car. It will feel planted with the right roll center height."

With the rear end fixed in place (pinion centered and angle set) he started to set up the lower link placement keeping the shock angles in mind. Once the lower was set on the diff he can plan the upper shock mounts. All out of the box Ridetech parts with a few scratch built filler pieces. Making it look too easy. The difference, before and after.

Also pictured is the parallel frame runner for the forward lower lower link mount and the crossmember notch. You can see the old lower wish(it worked) bone mount to the left.

[WSSix]

Welcome to the site, Chef. Sounds like you've got some great plans with the Falcon. Glad that the prior incident wasn't more serious.

Also, I'm not sure measuring across the lower rib on the T56 is accurate. That measurement is typically taken on the rear seal surface or the tail shaft sticking out the back of the trans. I'm sure they'll get it right though.

Good luck with the build! Keep us updated.

[SSChef]

Welcome to the site, Chef. Sounds like you've got some great plans with the Falcon. Glad that the prior incident wasn't more serious.

Also, I'm not sure measuring across the lower rib on the T56 is accurate. That measurement is typically taken on the rear seal surface or the tail shaft sticking out the back of the trans. I'm sure they'll get it right though.

Good luck with the build! Keep us updated.



Yep, thank you Trey. That was a reference measurement pictured.It's the same give or take 0.1 but he explained that its the differential between the tail shaft and the rear end pinion angle that is the important number. What it is in relationship to the ground level is irrelevant.

The picture he took at the output shaft was the same number but way out of focus to post. He told me he takes angles measurements at different areas so you have multiple options to check accurate angles in case one becomes inaccessible during the build. I think I remembered seeing tape notes on pan, bell housing and starter too.

I believe he likes to stay within 3 degrees. We ended up with 2 degrees final. We will see how it feels. I guess its easy to adjust now.

So with the lower links made, the housing brackets tack welded to the rear , the coil over shock mounts made and tack welded in he started working on the upper links mounts and links.

[67XR7]

Huge fan of the car, I've been following the progress of this build on instagram


Really awesome car, I'm hoping to see the completed car at the cars and coffee at TI here soon.

[SSChef]

Huge fan of the car, I've been following the progress of this build on instagram


Really awesome car, I'm hoping to see the completed car at the cars and coffee at TI here soon.

Thanks for the compliments. Its a fun car. The Cars and coffee show in SF is always a great turn out.

[SSChef]

With the links bolted in, the brackets tacked on the car can be put on the ground to check final tire fitment before we start the watts linkage.

[SSChef]

Start of the watts linkage supports and mount. With the roll center height from 9 1/2" - 13 1/2" the center plate is drilled.

Rearend housing mounting tubes and braces welded in once the links were set.

[Centerforce]

Your wheel setup is seriously beefy! Glad to see this is getting the makeover that it deserves.

[Flash68]

Loved this car since I saw it for sale. I really wanted it! :D

The work looks fantastic. :thumbsup:

[SSChef]

Loved this car since I saw it for sale. I really wanted it! :D

The work looks fantastic. :thumbsup:

Thank you, I guess you are a Ford guy. I like the Blue Mustang you are building. The Falcons are so unique I was afraid it wasn't going to look right in pro-touring trim. But so far its exceeded my expectations as far as driving.

The one thing I was not sure about was the spoiler. When my fabricator pitched it to me I was on the fence. Especially when its a bolt on piece. Once its on it will need body work to reverse.

The one is actually designed for a Camaro and the Camaro trunk shape.

As far as width it was perfect because it lined up perfectly with the roof line.

[SSChef]

Your wheel setup is seriously beefy! Glad to see this is getting the makeover that it deserves.

Thank you!! We ended up with the 325/19's on a 19x12 wheel. The 345's are just so tall. The 325's visually look wider than the 345's.

I plan on doing a clutch swap the current McLeod is making noise. I'll be looking you guys up soon. :thumbsup:

[Centerforce]

Thank you!! We ended up with the 325/19's on a 19x12 wheel. The 345's are just so tall. The 325's visually look wider than the 345's.

I plan on doing a clutch swap the current McLeod is making noise. I'll be looking you guys up soon. :thumbsup:

Feel free to drop us a PM whenever you are ready!

[Josh@Ridetech]

Beautiful car!

[SSChef]

Feel free to drop us a PM whenever you are ready!

Beautiful car!

Thanks guys.

[SSChef]

Rear is all welded up and painted. Came out pretty good. Had to redo the tail pipes because I wanted to leave them where they were, under the bumper.

Bunch of sheet metal work and then the front fenders.