oil control in corners

[lifespeed]

Long story short here. I upgraded the suspension on my 2004 Mercury Marauder, then added some low profile 10" X 20" Pirelli P-Zero tires. The cornering forces improved dramatically (no G-meter numbers, just butt dyno). Sometimes I pushed it through long sweeping freeway on-ramps generating some pretty good G's.

I glanced at the oil gauge sometimes and didn't notice anything disturbing, but the factory gauge is not even a "real" oil gauge - more of an idiot light. One thing that was disturbing, was a different sound from the engine when accelerating out of the corner. Kind of a rattling noise like the hydraulic lash adjusters had bled down. Didn't happen too often.

Three months after the wheel/tire upgrade put the finishing touches on the suspension grip I spun a rod bearing. Knock knock knock. Is this a coincidence, or did I starve the oil pump with the stock pan? The factory 4.6L 4V motor had 138K miles and regular synthetic oil changes. It shouldn't have popped this early.

Do I need a dry sump when I build the new engine? Seems a bit extreme (and expensive) for a street car, but it does corner well. But spinning bearings in an engine is pretty darn expensive too, not to mention time consuming. I value reliability a lot.

[Sieg]

Road race oil pan, AccuSump, both, or dry sump system.

[lifespeed]

I think I'm going to regret asking this, but . . . how do I know if a road race pan is good enough? When I spin another bearing?

[Sieg]

I think I'm going to regret asking this, but . . . how do I know if a road race pan is good enough? When I spin another bearing?

The pan alone certainly isn't a guaranteed cure, especially if you're running at a track like Thunderhill with it's oil starving T2.

A pan and AccuSump should provide a reasonable degree of safety though.

[GregWeld]

Yep - proper oil pan - proper oil pump - and an accusump for when oil pressures drop.

I have this setup in TWO of my "race cars" (all track cars only) and I have no problems with oiling.

If you're not familiar with an Accusump - just google it.

[clill]

I would get a Accusump. It is simply a canister that holds several quarts of oil that is plumbed into the oil system. It is pressurized and if you starve for oil in the corner it will delay that starvation by several quarts of oil. You will most likely be out of the turn before you ever use up those several quarts.

[lifespeed]

I am familiar with Accusump. Combined with a good road race pan it might not be a huge cost saver. I would probably prefer to go straight to a dry sump, but implementing the belt drive pump while retaining street car accessories could be really difficult.

[clill]

I would not do both the pan and Accusump. Only one is needed.

[lifespeed]

I would not do both the pan and Accusump. Only one is needed.

After spinning a bearing I am paranoid now. I may have even gone the dry sump route, but it appears to be near-impossible with obstacles like an air conditioner and power steering.

I doubt there is any harm to having both a trapdoor pan and Accusump. Belt and suspenders. Then you get the pre-lubed engine start FWIW.

[Sieg]

Then there's those who have installed a dry sump system and thrown a pump belt. :sieg:

[SSLance]

I chose just a road race pan for my new engine. I didn't spin a bearing in the old setup, but it was dern close to spinning.

[clill]

Then there's those who have installed a dry sump system and thrown a pump belt. :sieg:

Engine shut off after turn 11. That's when I noticed the big red light on the dash. Corner worker found my belt at turn 7.