Want to go wider fronts

[Sheck44]

Guys, going with a new set of wheels and want to get wider 18" wheels for the front. Issue is the current setup as seen below, the issue is the tie rod to steering arm is not going to clear by about 1/2" ... any suggestions ??

I 'believe' I have the shorter steering arms but not certain

Looking at some aftermarket billet arms .. again any suggestions

http://i264.photobucket.com/albums/ii200/SCOBRA48/WAAAY%20OTT/IMG_2176_zpswcujn50z.jpg (http://s264.photobucket.com/user/SCOBRA48/media/WAAAY%20OTT/IMG_2176_zpswcujn50z.jpg.html)

[carbuff]

Is this an application for the RideTech Tru-Turn setup? I haven't researched it myself, but I think they offer a shorter arm and revised steering geometry...

[JKnight]

With the Ridetech Tru-Turn you do have to use the Ridetech Spindle to maintain proper geometry. I think the OP is looking to use the ATS spindles he has, so that may be out.

I don't know if it's possible, given geometry and packaging considerations, but a steering arm for the ATS spindle that works with the F-body (not the A-body arm they already make) and provides additional room for the wheel/tire could be a nice offering. I would think it could roughly replicate what James/David P. did to the OneLap factory steering arms to create additional clearance on an ATS spindle/factory subframe application.

[Sheck44]

With the Ridetech Tru-Turn you do have to use the Ridetech Spindle to maintain proper geometry. I think the OP is looking to use the ATS spindles he has, so that may be out.

I don't know if it's possible, given geometry and packaging considerations, but a steering arm for the ATS spindle that works with the F-body (not the A-body arm they already make) and provides additional room for the wheel/tire could be a nice offering. I would think it could roughly replicate what James/David P. did to the OneLap factory steering arms to create additional clearance on an ATS spindle/factory subframe application.

Jeff, exactly ... Tru Turn will not work with the ATS spindles, and yes I am looking for others with experience with this to chime in on exactly what can be done. There seems to be a few different arm options out there (as per Dave Pozzi) and a aftermarket billet ones too.

I am also waiting to hear back from the guys at Speedtech ...

Thanks
Steve

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Hi Steve,

I wait to see what Speedtech has since thew new Extreme sub uses the same spindle and with an upgraded steering arm is capable of +7" of back space. If I recall the stock arm on the spindle will only take a 5 3/4" BS.

[raustinss]

Id have to say Steve just toss the spindles in the scrap bin....then pick them out and send them my way lol, swinging by DaSilva Friday afternoon...hope to see your car there

[Vega$69]

With a 7" backspace the tie rods may hit the inside of an 18" wheel if you have a stepped lip like Forgeline. Also the issues with a 7" bs is the wheels may hit the arms. You can add a stop on the steering arm but this will cost you steering radius.

Some some things to consider.

[Sheck44]

John, this is exactly what I want to avoid, and looking for steering arm/tie rod options

Thanks
Steve

[johnnysuede23]

I'm not familiar with the ATX spindles however when I was looking around for steering arms to use on my ridetech spindles I found a few that could be made to work. The top one is a regular GM steering arm and the other 2 are made by speedway. They will need some work to fit a GM spindle. They are designed to be used with metric impala spindle they sell, bolt spacing is the same however the bolting surfaces are different and would need to be shimmed, also not sure if they would clear the top of a ball joint stud.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v304/JohnnySuede23/Galaxie/20160111_202802_zpso7xwky5k.jpg (http://smg.photobucket.com/user/JohnnySuede23/media/Galaxie/20160111_202802_zpso7xwky5k.jpg.html)

[mfain]

I ended up making my own out of 7075. I am set up for 12.5 inch wheels with 9 inch backspacing.

Pappy

57261

[JKnight]

Damn Pappy, that's great. What are the details of your setup? Control arms and such...geometry still worked out nicely? I assume it did knowing a little about your projects, but figured I'd ask.

[mfain]

Damn Pappy, that's great. What are the details of your setup? Control arms and such...geometry still worked out nicely? I assume it did knowing a little about your projects, but figured I'd ask.

Thanks. That is part of the high travel, low roll suspension (heavily influenced by Ron Sutton) on my 56 Corvette track car. Fabricated, long control arms with a Sweet rack. The trick to getting enough wheel turn with lots of travel and a 9 inch backspace (for reduced scrub) was the fact that the short rack is mounted high (to achieve the right bumpsteer) which put the outer tie rod ends on top of the steering arms. This put them closer to the center of the barrel of the wheel (vertically) which allowed more degrees of turn (28 degrees) before the tie rod hit the rim during full compression. Lots of computations and trial and error - but it worked out the way I wanted. Once you get the tie rod clearance worked out, I suggest you remove the springs, drop the nose of the car to the fully compressed attitude, and turn the wheels full in each direction. It is common, with very deep offsets and depending on the amount of caster you have dialed in and how much, if any caster gain you get with compression, for the rim to hit either control arm. I actually built a plywood mock-up tire and wheel to use as a clearance gauge.

Pappy

[jdeliveryguy]

Was wondering if the OP solved his problem. Did the guys at Speedtech have a solution?

[Sheck44]

Hey guys, yes I did talk to Roger and the best and easiest way to get tie rod clearance is to replace the standard tie rod with a heim joint.

similar to this ... but without the bump steer application

https://www.cachassisworks.com/p-1246-camaro-67-bump-steer-kit-outer-only.aspx

Cheers
Steve

[jdeliveryguy]

Thanks for reply