65 Porsche w C5 Drive

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi everyone !

New kid on the block. Found the site recently - like an oasis in the desert !!! I've really enjoyed looking at all your sites and reviewing the Forums - some really awsome people and projects.

Here's a new twist for you to think about. I have a 65 356 Porsche coupe - and I'm in the process of installing a 2002 C5 drivetrain and suspension under it. I have to build a custom perimeter box frame - with a tube backbone so I can lower the car down. (Kinda like the Sniper that Troy did a while back) I also have to split the car and widen it 10 inches to get the torque tube down the middle. I'm sure I'll upset the 356 crowd - they call these Outlaw cars. Hope they will see it as an interesting use of the car.

I have the parts, the frame jig is done, and I'm starting to layout the suspension cradles/parts so I can determine where the upper A-arms pickups go. Does anyone know the factory suspension measurements that would help me figure out the proper placement of the upper ?? (not the alignments specs) I've read some of the threads where some people just install them to look good and don't worry about how it works at the limits - but I'd like to really make it work too ! Any help would be appreciated !!

Enjoy !!

Jim

[Sales@Dutchboys]

Welcome to the site.....

-Paul

[Bowtieracing]

Hello Jim!!

Welcome aboard! I think you have a wery professional looking project going on :thumbsup: ! Please keep posting pictures of its progress. I love this forum,lots of hi tech cars coming together.

[XcYZ]

Welcome aboard, Jim. That's a cool project. Talk about unique! :thumbsup:

[ironworks]

Man that thing is cool. I have been building a truck with all C6 stuff. The C5 is almost the same. You know you talked about widening the body but why don't you just narrow the track width so it is all in the stock body dimensions. Just a thought, I got my Track width down to 60" ( from 68") I know you could get an inch or 2 more if needed. By getting rid of the cradles you can set the ride height pretty low and have tons of ground clearance. Man your shop looks super professional. I look forward to seeing more on your project. If you need some help with anything let me know. I could almost write a book with all I have learned from building mine, but I can't spell and my hands are to big so I hunt and peck the works out. My project is listed under C6-57. it should......... be at sema this year.

Rodger

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi Roger,

Thanks for the kind words !

I have been tracking your project for a while dude. I actually have a book in the shop with pictures of other peoples' rides (many from Lat-G) that are doing simular projects like what I'm attempting. I have several of your truck chassic picts that I've been refering to as a guide - thanks ! That will be soooo cool - keep up the great work and I can't wait to see the deal on the road ! GOOD Luck at SEMA you lucky dog ! (wish I could get in there ...)

The reason for splitting the car is because on 356 Porsches - the pax and drive seats are literally touching. In order to get the torque tube down the middle - I'll need to widen the car at least 10 inches to seperate the seats. Other then that - I really don't need the stock vette track width. If I widen the car as stated - the stock vette track width is just right. I might shorthen it a bit so I can get a slightly deeper lip on the face of the wheels just for appearance - but the stock Porsche turbo wheels don't have much anyway.

One of my main problems is lowering the steering rack down so I can move the engine forward and over the rack. I have an LS1 front sump pan from a GTO that will let me move it forward - to gain some foot well space if needed. Once I get the upper arms set in their stock locations - I'm ready to set the body on the jig and start cutting !

Thanks !!

[ProTouring442]

My friend, you are a very sick man! That is one sweet project! :thumbsup: Where are you located?

Keep sending more pics!
Shiny Side Up!
Bill
’72 442 “Inamorata”

[bob johnson]

You might want to look at my Cuda set up. We used a direct drive dragster can with a Lenco main drive so we could run a driveshaft instead of the torque tube. We also ran the exhaust in the tunnel with the driveshaft sitting over them. We have 5" of ground clearance on a car that sits lower than most guys with 2" or so. Since it's a transaxle you can get by with a 3" or smaller shaft. It's a little noiser than a torque tube but it saves a lot of space and makes maintenance a lot easier. BTW are you cutting up that cute little sunroof car?

[BC69]

What will the Porsche Purists think!!!!!!! :wow:

Thats an awesome idea. I love those old porsches, from the late 50's up to mid 60's!

Welcome to the site!

Tim

[TonyG]

That is the coolest cross-breeding I have ever seen. Awesome project!!

[race-rodz]

for pops cobra project, that uses viper suspension, i picked up a factory viper assembly manual, it contains all the measurements and angles for every part of the chassis.

i took those measurments and fed them into an analyzer program, then modified the track width(narrowed) and adjusted the mounting points for optimizing the RC and bump steer. now if i just had time to put it all together :rofl:

[Chaser]

im assuming this car is a replica, correct??

[c.schulz]

Cool project. Can you give us more shots of build process?? Like the drivetain in place and body fitment.

Chris

[Garage Dog 65]

Thanks everyone for the encouragement and support ! I just knew you were a great crew.

ProTour442 - I live in Indianapolis, IN.

Mr. Johnson - Thanks for the suggestions and guidance. I have every pict I could find of your awesome cuda - and will be stealing every idea possible :) I can't stop looking at the wild work you and your team performed on that car. Guys like you keep me keep me working hard at building something a tenth as nice - if I can even acheive that level ! I won't be cutting the Outlaw car (blk w sunroof). That's just one I saw at a porsche show in Calf that had the look I was after - yet mine needs to be lower. My car is a real 65 coupe, single owner, 67,000 miles and when he retired he had the body completely stripped, blasted and all the metal work replaced that was bad. He primered it -and then put it into a storage bin for 20 years losing interest in finishing it (Golf...). He had already bought everything new to completely rebuild it - and that came with the car in un-opened boxes. I got the whole deal for less then the body work costs - 20 years prior..... I have attached a pict from when I brought it home.

Back into the garage to find those suspension point locations...

Going to the Good Guys in Columbus this weekend - hope to see many of the Lat-G cars as possible !!!

Jim

[Musclerodz]

Very cool looking project, and ambitious to boot!

Mike

[Mike Hall]

That thing will have the proportions of a Shifter kart if you make it 10" wider. LOL

Mike

[bob johnson]

drop by the Cuda and see us..you might want to discuss the driveline with Alan..do you have the vertical space for the engine up front? How far back are you sitting it?

[Fluid Power]

Jim,

Love the car and the project! Keep us posted on the progress!

Darren

[Garage Dog 65]

drop by the Cuda and see us..you might want to discuss the driveline with Alan..do you have the vertical space for the engine up front? How far back are you sitting it?


Oh, you won't be able to keep me away from you and the 'Cuda Bob, more like you'll have to chase me away....

I plan on running the exhaust under the middle just like you guys did.

I have a couple different concepts on the engine solution. Packaging on this tiny of a car will be difficult. I plan to move the engine as far forward as needed/possible to get foot-well space. The wheel base is very short and on the 356 the front wheel center line is right where the firewall begins on most US car. The 356 shares a 'trailing-arm' suspension design with the VW - and that concept allowed more foot-well space in stock config. I'll need to place the engine over the steering rack - probably at the back of the block skirt to counter that. I have an LS1 GTO front sump pan if I need it. Or, I could rear-steer the stock vette setup - but that screws up the geometry and ackerman a bunch. (I could make it a trailer show car huh ...) There is a bulge in the hood and the engine in stock vette height fits nicely with plenty of room if I solve the above. I could also lower the steering rack by cutting off the vette steering arms and bolt on the lower steel arms from 21st Century.

Backup plan if I run into the hood line is to reverse the intake and connect to the cowl vent plenum where there is plenty of space with the engine forward - plus that's a seldom used concept today and might look trick. Most people are plumbing directly from the grill(s) - which I plan on doing if I don't reverse the intake. I will bottom-feed the radiator like the stock vette setup. With a little space management it will all fit and should be a ball to engineer and package - let alone drive the wheels off !

Can't wait for Columbus !

Jim

[B Schein]

I didn’t read this whole thread its late, But we do have a jig at 21st century to narrow the rear cradle. The front could be done just as easy we also have a solution to use the c5 diff with transmission bolted to the back of the engine just want to give some other options.

Also it is not as easy as just bolting on a set of our steering arms you need our modified rack with it mounted in the location we mount it on our frames as well as the same exact track width. We spent a lot of time with the bump steer gage so just throwing a set of our steering arms on there wont due you much with out the exact same specs as our sub frame.

[Garage Dog 65]

I didn’t read this whole thread its late, But we do have a jig at 21st century to narrow the rear cradle. The front could be done just as easy we also have a solution to use the c5 diff with transmission bolted to the back of the engine just want to give some other options.

Also it is not as easy as just bolting on a set of our steering arms you need our modified rack with it mounted in the location we mount it on our frames as well as the same exact track width. We spent a lot of time with the bump steer gage so just throwing a set of our steering arms on there wont due you much with out the exact same specs as our sub frame.


Hello Brian,

Thanks very much for the info and help !!! I'm going to setup the jig to stock specs and see if that works before I start to build the frame. Looks like I'm still going to need to split the car - so I will trial fit the stock suspension and engine locations at that time. If it doesn't fit and I need to lower and/or shorten the deal - I'll give you guys a yell to save me from myself. :)

Thanks again ! Jim

[Mike Hall]

I built a 356 speedster years ago for my wife. It was a CMC replica but sure looked nice when I finished. Anyhow. It sure seems that if your going to do this kind of install that the whole floor and firewall will be removed leaving just a outer shell. It seems that you would be able to move the seats towards the doors a little and have enough room for the torque tube. The tube is not that big anyhow. I know the seats in these Porsches are mounted towards the center of the car so they sit down in the pan but with this kind of car you might can remove those huge rockers and move the seats over. I would hate to under take cutting that car in half. Go get a flared fiberglass tube for $2000 rather than cutting that original. Its going to be killer project no matter what you do.

Mike

[Garage Dog 65]

I built a 356 speedster years ago for my wife. It was a CMC replica but sure looked nice when I finished. Anyhow. It sure seems that if your going to do this kind of install that the whole floor and firewall will be removed leaving just a outer shell. It seems that you would be able to move the seats towards the doors a little and have enough room for the torque tube. The tube is not that big anyhow. I know the seats in these Porsches are mounted towards the center of the car so they sit down in the pan but with this kind of car you might can remove those huge rockers and move the seats over. I would hate to under take cutting that car in half. Go get a flared fiberglass tube for $2000 rather than cutting that original. Its going to be killer project no matter what you do.

Mike

Hi Mike,

The car parked behind my 65 coupe is a CMC 57 Speedster Calf version with flares (at the top of the thread). I've had it for many years. I really thought about doing this to the speedster - but changed my mind - even after a couple years of night school at Purdue taking Composites classes. Convertibles here in Indy are a pretty limited usage car. It rains quite a bit - and then all summer it's drippy humid. Guess I'm getting old - but I chose to have real windows and A/C so I can drive it most of the year. I plan to pattern and template the frame and stuff so I can replicate the frame - and maybe I will do the speedster too.... we'll see what the wife has to say about that one ... :eek:

Jim

[Mike Hall]

Nice CMC. I will go find my pictures of the CMC i built. It had a 200hp stroker motor with quad weber 44 carbs. I had well over $6K into the motor alone on that car. I ended up selling the car after I finished it because there was no way my wife could have drove it. It had on off switch power which I could not even get used to. LOL I will say that those flat 4s sure sound bad to the bone with a big merged exhaust and single turbo muffler.

You should be able to notch or remove those rockers to move the seats over to make room for the tunel. I still dont think I would cut the car in half. You could always flare the fenders and quarters to fit the wheels under. I think that car could use some flares to make it look mean.

mike

[Garage Dog 65]

1200 pound plastic car + 200 hp flat 4 = pure heat baby !

Nice to see the sickness continues !

[Mike Hall]

LOL, The guy that built the engine up in ATL asked what the engine was going in and he just laughed when i told him it was a replica 356 speedster. Proflow performance was the name of the company if I remember righ. He has the fastest bug on this side of the states. Or at leat he did when he built my engine.

Mike

[Streetfire]

Looks like a great project and a beutiful car to start out with. I will like to see the finished project. That is quite a torque tube. Good luck.

[Garage Dog 65]

drop by the Cuda and see us..you might want to discuss the driveline with Alan..do you have the vertical space for the engine up front? How far back are you sitting it?

Wow, the G Force is awsome in person !!! I gawked over it for a long time - several times. And all the people around it.....geez. I would love to see that up off the ground to get to look at all the artwork. It was just impossible to get close to you for an introduction. I got there right as they started to judge it at 9 - so you were busy. Came I back before lunch - you were gone - came back at 2 and you and Alan started it up and drove off. But, I did get to hear that baby run - that exhaust sound is wicked sir !!! Sorry I missed you. Maybe I'll catch you at the Mopar Nats.

Hope you had a great weekend and get a chance to rest up a bit.

Wow is all I can say !!!!!

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi All !

Been a couple months. Between people in the family having surgury and/or putting in a bunch of posts around the garden - I havn't made much progress on the project. But I do read all the posts here each day for motivation ! Thanks !!!

Purchased a BER 2002 convertable vette chassis a while back and have it setup on the jig now with all the suspension in place. Amazed that someone would burn a vette for the insurance - instead of drive it - or set a guys vette on fire for revenge - takes all kinds... Took several weekends getting all the burned up carpet, pads, seats, wiring, dash, and what was an endless carbon mess out of the car. Once I got down to the bottom - there was no damage to the composite floor pans - had it been a coupe, it would have melted clean to the ground. No damage to the frame.

Now in the process of the 4 wheel alignment and building the suspension jig. Then the vette chassis gets sold - drop the porsche on the jig and get the whiz wheel going.

The porsche is up on stands with the front suspension stripped out now and just finishing pulling the trans and stuff out of the back.

A little progress each day.... NEVER surrender !

Jim

[ironworks]

Wow looks like your moving along. i have customer who is wanting us to build an 356 coupe with modern porsche drivetrain. I'm trying to talk him into a tube chassis to make room.

Rodger

[Garage Dog 65]

Quick Update.

Vette chassis on jig for alignment and suspension positioning completed. All the stock suspension points identified and transferred to a jig cradle. Removed the chassis. Mocked everything back up for a quick doublecheck - then blew it apart and sanded and primered the jigs. Next step is to put the Porsche body on the jig - get the wheels under it and set the rake/attitude.

[Fluid Power]

I look forward to these updates. You meticulousness is unbelievable. I have a friend whose attention to detail and his shop is as clean as yours. He spent a career in the Champ/Indy car world. The racing world reflects that level of professionalism. How about you?

Darren

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi Darren,

Probably my aircraft background pushes me to be neat and clean. 26 years in aviation and we aren't allowed to be sloppy. We are in an environment where you constantly clean up before-during-after the job so it becomes standard practice. Plus for the past 15 years I've been an instructor - and we have to constantly remind people in class and out in the hangar and shops to do the same.

Lived here in INDY my whole life and have been into the Indy/Usac/NHRA deal since I was very young. I live just down the road from all the small and big race shops - and they are clean as can be. Some of the F1/Indy/Nascar shops are nicer then the inside of most peoples homes. Check out Ganassi Racing some time to see what I mean. They are a block from where I work at the airport and it's unbelievable the conditions of the current professional shops out there.

Plus the garage is attached to my house - so the wife wouldn't appreciate tracking all that inside .... :eek:

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

Built and installed 2 of the 4 support tubes - installed 3/4 all thread rod at all 4 corners for adjustment. Put the tires/wheels under it and the cars ready for ride height adjustment. Looks like I'll need to cut out the inner wheel wells before I can started though. The stock 4.5 wide wheels and the stock wells - just weren't designed to have 11 inches of tread in there !! :yes:

Man that 20 years in a storgage bin primer sure is ugly.

Next step: weld in some slip-joint cross bracing inside the body - and split it down the middle and widen the car 10 inches. That should be a heart stopping Point-of-no-Return.... :eek:

[JUSTANOVA]

Built and installed 2 of the 4 support tubes - installed 3/4 all thread rod at all 4 corners for adjustment. Put the tires/wheels under it and the cars ready for ride height adjustment. Looks like I'll need to cut out the inner wheel wells before I can started though. The stock 4.5 wide wheels and the stock wells - just weren't designed to have 11 inches of tread in there !! :yes:

Man that 20 years in a storgage bin primer sure is ugly.

Next step: weld in some slip-joint cross bracing inside the body - and split it down the middle and widen the car 10 inches. That should be a heart stopping Point-of-no-Return.... :eek:


that thing is going to be sweet, :hail: good luck with widening the car, have you thought about having artmorrison bend you the main rails? might take some of the fab work off your plate. keep us updated

[Garage Dog 65]

Got a little work done this week. Pulled the front suspension, engine, trans and rear suspension. Removed the headliner and all the interrior insulation, wiring, wiper motor and arms, and the steering column. Front wheels were able to tuck up in the wells - but the rears were no where close. So, time to cut them out. No turning back now....

[tndude]

Look'n Good! :thumbsup:

[Garage Dog 65]

Got some cutting done this afternoon. Need to support the tail - so I'll build/prime some body supports tonight and finish cutting out the opening Monday. Can't wait to get some tires in there and set the attitude so you guys can critique the stance for me. Right now it's 5 frnt and 6 in the rear - but I think the rear will need to be higher. I can cut and extend the rocker panel since there is nothing behind it - that would make it look lower and be an easy mod.

As Scott said on another thread - and so it begins !

Justanova - Thanks for the support sir ! I have talked to Art and some of the sales guys at several shows and asked if they'd do a complete chassis for this - but with the C5 stuff in the back they wern't interested in doing the whole thing since they prefer the 9 inch assy. So I do plan on having them do the main rails and the rear section w/o the C5 gear, and I'll fab in the brackets. (take a look at the G Force Cuda site - it will look like that in the back- Thanks Bob and Alan !! - or see Ironworks' C6 Truck rear setup - it's wicked too)

[dropit69]

thats gonna be sweet..one near me on craigslist a 911/930 with a chevy 350 in it.. im tempted to go look..

[ironworks]

Hay thanks for the props on the chassis. Have you seen the posts on the Zo6 nova we are building? It is the projects section (66 nova update). We started on the chassis last week. We will be mounting the transaxle next week. We already got the lowers mounted and need the torque tube and engine to keep going. This one is going to be a real bad boy.

Looks like your moving right along.

Rodger

[Garage Dog 65]

Hey Rodger,

I somehow missed the middle of that thread where you posted the chassis pics. I try to read all the posts each day - looking good as usual dude ! You guys make it look sooo easy. Now that I'm neck deep in it - it's certainly not that easy .... Have alot of appreciation for the metal shapers doing this work. Wish I has a plasma cause nibblers, saws-all, and wiz-wheels suck - but I'll get it done. Keep posting the z06 progress ! I'll be watching.

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

Tonights progress - Part 1,

Installed some bracing to hold up the rear end while I cut away the frame structure - found it FULL of sand from sand blasting that had migrated in through the bolt holes and drains. Finished cutting out the trunk and rear seat floor.

[Garage Dog 65]

Progress Part 2,

Set the rear tires in. Set the ride height at F = 5.75 and R = 6.5. I think the rear should go up more - so I can set the pax window ledge level ? (I can lower the rocker panel down easily if needed) Here's everyone's chance to provide feedback.

Any critiques, comments, ideas or guidance from anyone is always appreciated - and I don't take it personal - so feel free to call it like you see it. Thanks !!

[XcYZ]

Cool. That's going to be one unique ride. :thumbsup:

[Garage Dog 65]

Are my pic posts too dark ? At home on my LCD monitor they look fine - here at work on a CRT monitor they are way dark. Let me know and I'll change the balance from here forward. Thx

[Hdesign]

They look fine to me. What a cool car this is gonna be! I've always had a thing for that era of Porsche. They just have a really slick and clean look, great proportions, no nonsense and I certainly can't fault your choice in driveline.

I don't think this car will look right with a lot of rake, every line on it slopes down towards the back. I'd keep the rocker parallel to the ground or slightly up in the back since the sloping bodylines create an optical illusion that the rear is sagging.

I never realized there's a bulge just below the trunk that squares the profile off in the back a little. Is there a functional reason for that...rear engine clearance? I dunno.

[Garage Dog 65]

I was hoping you'd jump in there Ben, I greatly appreciate your eye toward design, flow and sizes ! Thanks much for the responce.

The bulge is there from the alternator on the back of a flat 4 engine - it sticks way back from the engine. I thought about dropping the bumpers on the car last night before taking picture because the bumpers eliminate the bulge quite a bit from the line when installed. (Check page 1 of the thread for the effect with the bumper installed) I've seen these cars with the bumper removed and you're right - the bulge catches the eye down the back of the car - so I left them on but eliminated the 'bumperettes' (the chrome extensions). I felt the bumpers also added 'weight' to the bottom of the car line making it appear to be lower then it really is - or maybe that's just me.

Thanks again and feel free to provide any comments !

Jim

[GTX]

Looks cool!! I am a Porsche/VW fan too.I have a '66 Cal-Look Bug with nitrous I play with. http://vintagevw.net/images/Img27.gif
If anyone wants to see a cool Vee Dub/Porsche design tool try http://www.busselecta.com/

[Garage Dog 65]

Hey GTX, I enjoyed the Bug pics. I'm amazed at the engineering and efficiency in those cars - and the company history for Porsche and VW is awesome when you read about it. Thanks much !

Disappointed with my progress this weekend, Didn't get much done ... had to work Saturday. Installed 10 expanding cross braces. 1.5 (14 gage) square outer tube with a 1.25 (11 gage) inner tube. Outer tubes split in the middle - and welded to the chassis at both ends - and welded on either side of the middle split. Installed 4 inside the car (2 floor w 2 roof), 1 in the trunk, 2 in the front, 2 on the bottom at the axel centerlines.

Just some background on the car I thought might be fun to share. 2 owner vehicle and I have all the documentation right down to the oil changes and light bulb replacements - he even measured and recorded the brake pad wear when he replaced them. Attached the original invoice from 65. 2nd owner purchased the car in 1980 for $700 - and sent it in to a 356 shop in Florida for $8500 worth of metal replacement, sand blasting and primer. Shop labor rate was $22/hour - try that one in 2007 dollars ! (Looks pretty rough in the pics) Went into storage in 81 - until 2001 when I bought it.

This week I'll install the stabilizing bracing to tie the top/bottom and front/back of both sides so it won't twist when separated. Then I need to cut out the front suspension, cowl vent, front and rear lock receivers, and the wiper motor mount. Then I can FINALLY split it. Any ideas, guidance or comments you guys have, feel free to pass them along - never split a car before :wow:

[Garage Dog 65]

Made a little progress tonight.

Welded in some more body supports. Removed the cowl vent and the front suspension supports. It's amazing how much sand was trapped inside all the core supports and bracing - and that they didn't power wash the front suspension before or after blasting it. the rest of the car is nice and clean - yet the front suspension box was pretty rusted.

Tomorrow I'll remove the center of the dash (in a inverted V cut from top to bottom so that I can remove the radio/ash tray/lighter section in one piece) the wiper motor support (spot welded), backup light surround, and finish adding the internal cross bracing. My kingdom for a plasma .....

Go COLTS!

[ironworks]

man that thing looks sick. i love the stance.

Just my opinion but I like the die grinder when doing precise sheetmetal work like that. When we major sheetmetal work like top chops and sheetmetal fab we use the die grinder for square cuts. The plasma is for cutting out junk and making brackets out of 1/8" or better. Just focua on the quality not that it take 10 days to make all the cuts. Those nice square planned out cuts will pay off in the end when you can cut filler strips on the shear. I even get precise enough to have very thin die grinder blades for certain cuts.


Looks good. Maybe you and John could race your porsche and his nova against each other when done...

Rodger

Rodger

[Garage Dog 65]

Need to cut the middle of the dash out. The original radio openings in these cars were very small. Plan is to v cut out the dash - then widen the cutout 2 or 3 inches to make room for a current sized radio (CD/DVD/LCD/IPod/Shower Massage ... :P ) and fill up the rest of the space between the gauge and glove box (widening the car 9-10 inches).

Thought about doing an electric flip down front on the radio and use the standard Porsche radio blanking plate, so when the thing is off - it fits the period of the car. Plan for the interior are to keep it looking stock as possible and use the high-end carpets and leather.

Thought about doing 2 interiors - 1 plush touring with the stock seats, the other with the Porsche GT interrior (racing buckets, bolt in roll bar, etc). I have both interiors - - hummmmm....

[Garage Dog 65]

Marked and removed the center of the dash. Removal also provides access to the wiper motor bracket. A few spot welds to drill out - then I can cut the dash top and firewall down to the console structure.

[JayR]

That is way too cool! Tons of talent and creativity going on in that project. Thanks for the pics.

Good job!

[Garage Dog 65]

Removed the wiper mount, backup light surround, and rear view mirror mount base.

[Garage Dog 65]

Made some front and rear paper profile patterns so I can get the same curvature when I put the extra metal in. Then I split the front section (backseat to bumper). Split the rear section (dash top forward to bumper). The only thing left is to split the roof and then the floor - then bottle jack it apart and shore it all up. Might be done by tomorrow nights update....

[ironworks]

I better pick up the pace, your getting alot of work done.

Rodger

[BC69]

Great progress. I really like those old porshe bodies...cant go wrong!


Tim

[Garage Dog 65]

Hah !

I'm just a part-timer. I don't think you guys have a thing to worry about...

[awr68]

Great project!! I'm in favor of leveling the rockers and loosing the bumpers. Also, I'd do a high end interior using leather, but use safe seats as well as a roll bar/cage. This car is at the point of power to weight not to think safety first and include it into the design...but you're a smart guy and have already considered this I'm sure....

My uncle is an aircraft mechanic and pilot too and I can tell you are very similure to him in your approach to doing things...ie, clean and well thought out!! Perhaps it's an industry standard.

Keep the updates/pics coming!!!! :thumbsup:

[Garage Dog 65]

Thanks for the kind words and guidance Anthony ! I plan to put in all the roll bar reinforcements while I'm doing the body so I can put the cage in. I'd like to do both interriors - 1 stock and 1 GT Porsche style with some type of racing seats. Guess it's about time to make that choice...

You're right about aviation and your dad. It's one thing to work on a car, drive it and then pull over when you forgot to tighten or fill something. Try custom building an aircraft - then strap yourself (or paying passengers or your family) into it and tool around a 10,000 feet. You only get a couple power-off dead-stick landings in a corn field before your luck will run out. It's one of the few things left in our industry we're still very proud of ! Thank your Dad for his guidance too - sounds like it may have rubbed off on you - and thats a good thing !

I spent the morning building a template pattern of the roof before I cut into it. There is no structure to these - it's actually just a stamped piece of metal with formed edges F and R - with a U channel at the windshield surround and door drip channel. My concern was that when I cut into that - it would attempt to return to it's previous flat state - so I built patterns to make a wooden support buck for later.

For the process - see Ron Fornier's site and checkout the Making Patterns and Bucks tape. Basic old school coachbuilding and race car stuff. (If you know Ron's history - he's one of those behind the scene hero guys !)

Grided off the top. Made paper templates to those grids. Then you can transfer that to plywood or MDF - and put it all back together and you have the original profile of the structure. Did the same for the Nose and the Tail.

Anyway, thought the new guys might find it interesting.

I know, Go Cut That Thing .... :)

[Garage Dog 65]

Well that was fun.

Cut the roof, cut the floor - then split the cross tube in the back - and jacked it 8 inches apart to get a C5 torque tube down the middle. Everything stayed in alignment and slid so easy I could have moved it by hand.

Glad I made a profile template - the roof is now flat with no curve. I'm going to put in some support channels when I stitch it back up.

Next, install cross bracing - then mockup the rear suspension, set the trans/diff in and put the torque tube in to see if I widened it enough. Plans are to add a wedge cut into the rear fenders (back all the way up to the door latch) to widen the back of the wheel well 2 inches on each side.

Beer:30 :cheers:

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

Centered and aligned the body to the jig. Set the wheel base center lines. Dropped in the rear suspension jig and put on the right side gear. Installed the transaxle and torque tube and centered for a mockup. With the car 9 inches wide - the drive line sets right in there as planned with room available for the chassis backbone around it. I might put in the drivers seat and slides tomorrow to make sure theres enough room. Will need to move the rear wheels in few inches and get shortened half shafts. Next is to cut out the front wheel wells and firewall, drop in the front suspension jig and see where the engine falls.

[Garage Dog 65]

Removed the front wheel wells, footwells and the trunk floor all the way up to the firewall bottom. Also removed the battery tray and vent in the nose section. Tomorrow I'm hoping to get the front suspension cradle installed and get the front suspension and steering rack in. (I set the cradle in tonight and the end brackets hit the jig leg -have to modify the front ones tomorrow too.... Picked up some 1 3/4 and 1 inch tubing today to mock up the center backbone. Want to make sure I can get a set of 2.5 exhaust in there at the current width - or go another inch wider.

[Garage Dog 65]

Getting close.

[Garage Dog 65]

Slow today. Had to modify the front susp cradle to fit over the front jig legs. Couldn't get much room that way - so I repositioned the entire car to compensate. It works - just had to redo all the adjustments again.

Installed the front suspension and rack. Front suspension will need to be pulled inward like the rear to clear the fender lines.

Started measuring the engine for install. Gonna be tight. Need to start looking at headers. If anyone has a suggestion let me know. LS1 and I'm looking for 400 hp. A cam, intake and headers look like that should get me close.

Jim

[ironworks]

Wow looks good. Your almost done, just a little welding and wiring.

Rodger

[Garage Dog 65]

Snowed in today - so, I installed the motor. Set the engine .5 inch off the back of the rack and centered. Looks like a 3 inch inset replacement firewall will do it. The footwells are looking like a cobra deal though, very tight. Now I can take measurements for shortening the torque tube. Wish I'd done this kinda work years ago - it's a blast !! (but I'm really tired of the rust and green primer)

[CHAZMO1986]

Wow, That Little Car Is Going To Be Sooooo Sweet, Awesome Work.

[Garage Dog 65]

The Hooker LS1 Block Huggers worked just right - they look tiny though compared to the monsters you guys run. Just one more compromise in this journey. The pipes should route fine.

Need to replace the batwing pan with a camaro pan so I can run a 2.5 exhaust into the backbone.

The torque tube is out to be shortened at a local IND shop. Shortening it 21 inches total.

This weekend I remove everything - rebuild the suspension jigs so they can be moved inward - and then put it all back together again for the final measurements.

[Garage Dog 65]

Removed the rear jig and separated it into 2 parts. Built 2 more supports and reinstalled the rear jig. Moved the wheels/tires in 10 inches total. I can go ahead now and template out the rear suspension frame and get those off to be bent for me.

Taped over the cut to see what it might look like.

Tomorrow I'll remove the engine and front suspension - and do the same to the front jig and reinstall. I'll install the transaxle and wait on the shortened torque tube for the final setup.

Jim

[c.schulz]

Hey Jim,
The car is looking great!!! Love the rear shot of the car. That is going to look killer from the rear. Just one thing Im spoting.... you may want to widen the track of the wheels and get those out closer to flush with the wheel lip. If thats a problem for the wheel bounce then maybe raise the ride height a little. I dont think it would hurt the looks in order to get those wheels out for the stance to be correct. :thumbsup:


Chris

[ironworks]

Wow lookin good. What is your rear track width down to now? At about 56" things get really tight with the diff and the stock lower control arms. You might want to mock up the transaxle before you have any tubes made. It gets really tight back there on the lower control arms. just some info from struggles I have had with this suspension

Let me know when you get to shock mounts I can give you some part numbers to make you life easy if your running Coilovers.

[Beach Cruiser]

Looking good! can't wait to see how you sort out the front. I hope that's 200 mph duct tape you used for the body work!

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi guys,

Thanks for the support gents - that's always appreciated and keeps me going !

Chris, Excellent comments. The body profile of these cars is very tear-drop shaped. The track is very wide in the front susp - and pretty small in the rear. The rear wheel well opening changes pretty drastically from front to rear of the opening - something like 2 or 3 inches. It gets very narrow at the back. I attached a pic looking straight up - but it's difficult to see it clearly. So the plan is to add a 2 inch wide pie shaped insert into the fender - pointed end at the door edge, and 2 inches wide back by the tail light. That will flatten the difference and allow me to either run a wider wheel - or move the track out. I agree that the front of the wheel well and all that extra room ruins the appearence. I'm thinking about running the 285's I have in the rear right now - so I'll probably move the track width and raise the entire car an inch and lower the rockers. It's 6.25 in the rear and 5.25 in the front.

Rodger, The current track is 52. If 56 is close to the minimum - I'm gonna be in trouble. I should be able to get close to 54/55. I'll take your advice and drop the transaxle back in and see what happens. Packaging is the tough part of this project. And I haven't even gotten to space needed for a battery, AC, wipers, electrical system, pedals, - oh yeah, seats .... :lol:

Thanks guys !! Time to get back in the shop and cut something.

[ironworks]

Brother, I cannot even imagine the packaging issues your gonna deal with. Building Johns nova with a backseat is like 10lbs of crap in 5 lbs bag. Good thing your not trying for a back seat. If you can pull it off you should have a low ride height and great ground clearence. And lots of toe board trans room for gas pedal and feet. That is big issue when I build a car cuz of my size 15s.

What is gonna happen is the front pick up point on the rear a arms will crash into the bottom of the diff. And on yours you should be raising that front point over stock to shorten the instant center of the rear. With as much as you have shortened the drive train, and if you kept the stock instant center geometry, you may have an instant center that is landing in front of the engine or farther forward than is recommended. If i have just confused the heck out of you, PM me and I will I will give you my number to try and explain what is happening and some trade secrets to fix it.

Your car is looking awesome. This is the part I really enjoy, the engineering and making things work. The fab work is easy, making it look good and function is another story.

Rodger

[xvette]

I narrowed my c-5 rear 7in, 3.5 a side ,that brings the lower control arm right to the rear diff on the pass side with about 1/2 in clearance.

pic www.picturetrail.com/55xvette

[Garage Dog 65]

Thanks to all you guys for your interest, comments and solutions. Any help I get is greatly appreciated - so feel free. Rodger, I'll get you my number - any guidance is welcome sir. Xvette - man I loved your car and all the work !!! I took a ton of pictures - thanks for the inspiration.

Sunday update and here's how it ended up. Moved the rear wheels out 2 more inches. That get's me 54 inches track width - leaving 13 inches between the lower a arms. Outer fender clearance is 4 inches at the leading edge of the tire - and 2 at trailing edge. If I insert the 2 inch wedge - should work. How's that Chris ?? More better I hope. The front and rear inset now match.

Cut and shortened the front jig and reinstalled all the suspension stuff. Track width ended up at 55 leaving room to swing the tires full arch. That left 18 inches between the lower A arms.

Raised the body 1 inch. Back is now 7 and front is now 6. Thinking I should raise it some more - but I've looked at this so much I'm starting to get confussed. I'll keep working on it until I get it just right.

[BRIAN]

That is one cool looking project. I am a little skeptical about fitting that wide of a track in that car. If you pull them in does it get that look like it will tip over. Kind ok like early Pro Street cars?

What about making a pie shaped cut in the body. You could widen the body a couple of inches at the rear without destroying the shape. You already have some serious compound curves to deal with so a wider at the rear section shouldn't add too much. It could add up to 3-4" to your rear track width. Drop the rockers and maybe even lower the rear pan this way you can lower the suspension mtg points and not have it look jacked up in the rear. You could even lower the w/o an inch again giving you more travel with the lowered look. The sheetmetal will give the illusion of a lowered and tucked suspension.


Finally not a twin turbo Camaro.

[ironworks]

The stance is "MONEY". the shop number is 661 399 8999

Rodger

[orphancars]

Garage Dog,

I've been lurking on lateral-g for a while now...........about the only thing that I'm looking at on a continuous basis is your pages on your project.

We're doing similar projects..........I have a 1973 TVR 2500M (british handbuilt car, tube frame, fiberglass body, 1 pc tilt front end) that is getting a 21st century update. About the only stock TVR thing on mine is the fiberglass body. I'm building a new frame for it and am using C4 front/rear suspension and an LT1/T56.

I'm also running into similar issues with putting a modern/wide track suspension into a car design that is 30 to 40 years old. I'm doing it a little differently.....I narrowed the suspension as much as possible and still retain stock geometries (narrowed 2.5" per side in the rear, and 7" up front), and hopefully that will just let me flare the fenders slightly. Slightly in this case is 4 to 5" in the rear, and 3" max up front.

I did think of going the route you did and widening the body, but didn't want to have to deal with custom front/rear glass, and the front end is kinda curvy -- a 8" wide section in the middle of the car would look out of balance. Kinda hard to explain, but should be easy to see when I post up pics of my progress later this coming weekend.

At this point in my project, the frame is about 70% complete, welded to the chassis table at the right ride height/rake, and I'm putting in the mounts for the front and rear suspension. Your project and mine share a distant heritage -- I'm using steel VW floorpans in place of the fiberglass floor that was in place originally. Something about having my arse 5" off the ground with just fiberglass supporting and protecting me didn't sit well.............. :eek:

Looking good -- keep the updates coming!! Good to see someone else who thinks that PT isn't something that's exclusive to muscle cars :yes:

-jeff d, aka "orphancars"
Fort Worth, TX
1986 Fiero GT/V8
1973 TVR 2500M/V8

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi Jeff !!

Sounds like a very cool project and I can't wait to see the pics of your progress and solutions. There are some great minds here at Lat-G with some awesome skill sets and build experiences. When we get into trouble - there's plenty of help available. Check the site for other C5/6 stuff as many people are using it and can provide additional solutions when asked.

Yell if I can provide any support - Best of luck and stay in touch.

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

Got the Torque Tube back today shortened it 21 inches from stock.

Need to get the prop shaft shortened - so if anyone knows who can shorten an Alum Metal Matrix Composite vette drive shaft - please let me know as I'm having a tough time sourcing someone. Attached pics of the prop shaft for those that have never seen the internals of a vette torque tube. The rubber donut in the middle is to control whipping of the shaft due to harmonic distortions.

Ordered a new Camaro oil pan last week. Hope to have it for the weekend so I can put everything back together and do the final body and chassis measurements.

Wrestling with the type of frame to do now. A 2 x 4 box perimeter with tube backbone was my first design, now I'm thinking a complete tube frame.... To put a square box frame in a car that doesn't have a flat surface has me wondering if the full tube better matches the style/era of the vehicle. Plus Porsche always used tubes in their race cars. But the 2 x 4 would be easier to fab, less expensive and maybe lighter. Thoughts anyone ?? Jim

[ChevyThunder]

What will the Porsche Purists think!!!!!!! :wow:
Tim

It takes some time but they come around . I was the first guy to put flames on a Porsche.. it got some me some strange looks with up turned noses but all the people in that world who to me counted loved it.. and I dig what Jim is doing! My secretary has a 356 Conv D and I have two 935's and a 962 in the vintage stable.. so I am a guy who likes a littel power with my Porsche's . Keep us posted on your project I think it is cool as can be . Here's is my boat rocker


http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/ChevyThunder/GT1%20R/th_1272ss.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/ChevyThunder/GT1%20R/1272ss.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/ChevyThunder/GT1%20R/th_front1.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/ChevyThunder/GT1%20R/front1.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/ChevyThunder/GT1%20R/th_RA.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/ChevyThunder/GT1%20R/RA.jpg)
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/ChevyThunder/GT1%20R/th_guages.jpg (http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v600/ChevyThunder/GT1%20R/guages.jpg)

[orphancars]

GarageDog,

It's for this reason that I keep all my old magazines. The Kit Car July '03 issue had some good info on just this sort of thing.

They were running a series on one guy that was building a Ferrari 250 GTO replica from the ground up using a tube frame and C5 running gear/driveline. I can scan the article if you need it, but the important thing is this:

http://driveline-service.com/
Drive Line Services
Concord, CA
925-682-3340
"Russ"

Hope this helps!

-jeff d

ps -- pics and an intro coming soon..promise!!

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi Jeff,

Thanks for the info dude ! I had also been following the Last Chance Garage articles and Joel Heinke's GTO buildup - I thought it was a great idea and buildup details. I called Driveline Service a couple weeks back and the person that did the AMMC driveshafts passed away and the current owner doesn't want to do those anymore. So I'm still fishing....

Joel also belongs to the North Cal Kit Car Club (and owns a wicked cobra) so if your interested in his GTO build - you can get additional detailed info and pics at their club web site @

http://www.nckcc.com/january2004news.pdf

They only show links for their 2005 - 2007 newsletters - so if you type in the month and year you'd like to see into the browser line - those are still on their server in the background. (example: nckcc.com/march2003news.pdf)

I noticed that they just started his project back up in KitCar again last month.

Very cool that you jumped in there to help me out! That's what's great about Lat-G and it's always much appreciated.

YES, I want to see those pics SOON !

:lol:

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi ChevyThunder !

Thanks for the support and the kind words of encouragement. I can only hope my Porsche brethren can appreciate my project. I have been a member of the 356 Registery for over 15 years and really dig the 356/911 cars and all the history of the Porsche racing and engineering. I love the efficiency of the German design and how the car performs and handles with only 100 hp. I can totally understand the heritage and a persons wanting to do a spot-on restoration of these cars because they are soo cool. I guess I'll just have to get over it if they can't accept it.... because I wanted to do something different while still showing what a great design the car was/is.

I grew up with 340 6 pack darts, a 440 mag 69 dart, 351c Fairlane, 67 vette, - etc, good old america HP and I felt it would be fun (driving and engineering) a hybrid. If I'm wrong - it will still be a fun car for me.

Now you sir have way too many cool cars and are having far to much fun with them !!! And I really dig the purple flames - well done ! Let's drop an LS7 in that baby and really rock the boat !

Jim, Another very jealous boat rocker.

[Garage Dog 65]

Here's how I got my 356 Outlaw idea. Add to my passion for the 356 - my passion for bloomington gold, topflight or survivor C2 vettes and C5/6 technology - with the following site, and you'll understand why I'm twisted like I am.

http://www.partsobsolete.com


Check the Outlaw and Workshop links.

[Efi69Cam]

Got the Torque Tube back today shortened it 21 inches from stock.

Need to get the prop shaft shortened - so if anyone knows who can shorten an Alum Metal Matrix Composite vette drive shaft - please let me know as I'm having a tough time sourcing someone. Attached pics of the prop shaft for those that have never seen the internals of a vette torque tube. The rubber donut in the middle is to control whipping of the shaft due to harmonic distortions.

Ordered a new Camaro oil pan last week. Hope to have it for the weekend so I can put everything back together and do the final body and chassis measurements.

Wrestling with the type of frame to do now. A 2 x 4 box perimeter with tube backbone was my first design, now I'm thinking a complete tube frame.... To put a square box frame in a car that doesn't have a flat surface has me wondering if the full tube better matches the style/era of the vehicle. Plus Porsche always used tubes in their race cars. But the 2 x 4 would be easier to fab, less expensive and maybe lighter. Thoughts anyone ?? Jim


Lou Giglioti was selling a carbon fiber shaft for the C5. He might be able to make a shorter one.
LGmotorsports.com

[orphancars]

GD,

I totally agree with this:

"guess I'll just have to get over it if they can't accept it.... because I wanted to do something different while still showing what a great design the car was/is."

I get a little bit of that from the TVR crowd. Caught a little bit of flak when I did an article for the TVR newsletter. My personal experience is that there is ALWAYS a contingent out there for any marque that wants to preserve/restore at any cost. I usually counter those type of folks by saying the car is not factory original once the factory air is let out of the tires!

My TVR was so far gone that either to restore or restify would take the same amount of effort or cubic dollars to do. Same thing with the Fiero -- it had survived a front end impact, had the electrical system cut up, had parts missing/others bolted on.....didn't feel bad making it what I wanted it to be. Besides it's a Fiero!!! There are enough other folks out there that bought those cars and squirrelled them away as investments.....wonder how that is working out for them :)

PS -- sorry that info didn't work out for the DS :rolleyes: But iddn't that part of the joy of doing stuff like this -- to do something that someone hasn't done before?


-jeff d

PS -- This weekend I have a wife sponsored "wife-free-saturday" -- lots of work to be done on the TVR, lots of pics.............and a few of the Fiero thrown in as well.....more later!

[Garage Dog 65]

Looks like DynoTech Engineering (Troy, Michigan) not only can they shorten and weld an AMMC driveshaft - they have many replacements in stock for most hipo vehicles. (Hey Marty - they have them for your truck !!) Started as a GM research lab.

25% stronger then same size chrome moly steel ??? wow. I don't know what that means - but I want it !!! LOL

http://www.dynotecheng.com/

[Garage Dog 65]

Got some parts this week.

Installed a new Camaro oil pan and put the motor back in. Installed the torque tube and setup the transaxle. 1/2 inch between the axle housing and the right fwd lower a-arm mount. Need to raise the engine an inch. Some final body alignment and it's time to cross brace it and get it attached to the jig.

After much thought, I've decided to do a complete tube frame for the car. Dual tube 1.5 perimeter with the tube center backbone. The cage for the transaxle will be removable. Finishing up the drawings and time to locate the tubing.

Any comments or ideas post away. Thx. Jim

[ironworks]

lookin good, almost done.....

[Garage Dog 65]

Ordered a tube bender today. 10 days for delivery.

6 in radus die for 1.5 x .095 and .120 thickness and the EZ Bend software.

http://www.pro-tools.com/200.htm

Super helpful tech support that walked me through my selection.

Here we go..... 1 garage chassis coming up.

Jim

[orphancars]

Jim,

Have you started bending tube yet? Let me know -- I'm about to pull the trigger on a pro-tools bender -- undecided between the one you bought and the 105................want to know what your experience is with the HMP-200.

I'm still cutting, welding, grinding on the frame for the TVR. Bottom half is the rectangular tube I show in my project page, but the centersection and roll cage will all be tube. I'll be ready for that part of the project once I have all the suspension and engine/trans mounts done. Also still have to figure out how to put the floorpans in. I get one thing figured out, 20 more things still to go..........


thx,

-jeff d

[ironworks]

Wow it has been 30 days since the last post i wonder if he has the car done or if the bender is kicking his butt. Should we call his wwife and ask if he ever came out of the garage? Should we be worried yet? Or give him a few more days.

Rodger

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi Guys,

Haven't gotten much done on the project lately. My airline is in the final stage of adding a new fleet of aircraft and going through FAA proving runs, inspections and in-service approval process. And 2 weeks back we bought 2 additional airlines to add to our operation plus their aircraft - so it's been a little busy at the office. I do read Lat-G every day to keep up on everyone progress - you guys constantly amaze me !

I did receive my bender last week and have it assembled - just haven't bent anything yet. I feel it's an excellent purchase, very well built unit and will work perfect for a project of this size. If I were doing several chassis or purchasing one for a business where speed was an issue - I'd step up to an air/assist that bends 180 degrees. Pro-Tools does make others - and it's all made in the USA which is a real selling point for me. I also purchased the 2020 software and have spent a day or so installing and establishing the specific die ratio and other stuff for the 1.5 die I bought, getting my templates setup and sketching the base chassis design.

Couple hundred feet of DOM .120 tube is on order and I'll be picking it up Thursday !!

I'll get back to the fun stuff this weekend, promise !!

Jim

[SteveMcqueenRules]

I appreciate the craftsmanship and the thinking outside the box but to me these cars are best left close to stock. i guess because I have always wanted one. I hate to see one cut up. hopefully the body stays close to original since i think porsche got it right the first time. i thought putting in a 350hp VW based turbo motor in one would be cool most porsche purists would be pissed with that. But After all it is your car and maybe I will change my mind when i see it when this is finished.

[Garage Dog 65]

Tube bender setup and tuned. Works like a champ ! I got some 11 and 14 gauge EW tube (my DOM .125 won't be in until Monday, bummer) and ran tests to see what kinda bends it could produce. Pretty nice - just a very slight drop on the inside of the bend (about a 16th) but the rest looked good. It takes about 2 minutes to bend a 90 degree. I'll do a test on the .125 to see how that goes - but I don't expect anything different.

Jeff, I recommend the bender for this level of work. PS, I checked your site the other day and cracked up with the President pic and quote - and it's nice to see your TVR coming together !

Rodger, I sure could use your shop full of people and tools - you are a lucky guy !! I'm still waiting to see that truck painted !!

SteveMcQ, I totally understand your statement and beleive me it was hard to cut it up and do something radical like this to a breed of cars that I REALLY like. I have been a 356 fanatic for many years and I can only hope I do it justice. My plan is to use as much Porsche stuff that I can and be as close to the original look as possible. Thanks for your comments sir.

Jim

[SteveMcqueenRules]

re reading my post i might have come across like some kind of opinionated snob. i am glad it wasn't taken that way.

what kind of bender is that? looks like a nice simple design.

[Garage Dog 65]

SteveMcQ - no problem, I understand where you're coming from and I asked myself those same questions - and still do every time I walk past it. The bender is a Pro-Tools MP-200. It's $500 plus whatever die you select - and they have a truckload of different sizes all made in the USA. I looked at the sponsor list here and didn't see anyone representing this type of product - maybe I'll give them a call.

Jeff, I really like the 120 version too. The only reason I didn't buy it was it requires a stationary mount to the floor. The 200 is a tabletop version that doesn't require any mounting. It's heavy enough that it sets on the floor and with 3 feet of tube in it didn't move or wobble at all. The 120 would be a great purchased too - and more accurate with a greater bending range. Either unit will be a great purchase for you I'm sure.


http://www.pro-tools.com/200.htm

[orphancars]

Hey Jim,

Thanks for the feedback on the bender -- sounds like the one you have will have a twin in my shop soon. The feedback on the bend radius is what I was looking for. You also answered my question on whether or not the 200 had to be mounted to a table, floor, etc.

I'll need one to bend some 1.5/.080 wall tube for some parts of the frame and some 1.75/.120 for a roll bar/cage/etc.

So you saw my feeble attempt at a website? I got a start at it, but haven't finished it off. I spend 8-11 hours in front of a computer for work, and after that I have stuff around the house to get done or work to do on the cars. At the end of the day the last thing I want to do is get back in front of a computer :D

I should get it completed.............I have several pages teed up to document the Fiero build, should just start putting the TVR stuff up there as I get it done.

Misc pics are at http://orphancars.com/pictures


-jeff d

[Garage Dog 65]

Life just gets in the way. Finished adding a new fleet of aircraft to our airline, and then they went out and bought 2 more airlines to merge into ours.... who knows what a mess that will be.

Painted the house, stained 3 decks, spent a week at my sisters helping get her house ready to sell so she can move back to IND, and put in a raised bed garden to keep the misses happy at the home front - 24 posts, 10 tons of pea gravel, many truckloads of mulch and I still have the fence to finish over the next couple weeks.... ugh.

But all is not lost, I have been ordering all the parts and tools for the car !!

Mostly NOS Porsche stuff - headlight assy, turn signals, license light, backup lights, lenses, grills, switches, etc. Switching the 65 vented side window surrounds to non-vented 63 style to get rid of the ugly wing vents. Think I'll use the Harley Classic 7 in headlights that I saw in the orange 55 chevy in Columbus - and LED bulbs in all the turn signal and markers from AAW.

Tube and Bar stock benders, bead roller, planishing hammer, E-wheel, body hammers, slappers, dollies, strecher/shrinker, hand shear, combo shear/brake/roller, etc. DOM Tubing is here, backbone U's and some assorted brackets and suspension adjusters. Brake rotors for the stock vette setup.

Got the C5 vette frame up on Ebay right now. Do me a favor and buy it !! :lol:

I've started to plan the tube chassis locations in the car and began removing stuff off the bottom that's in the way - like the Jack Spurs, body braces, etc.

It's nice to get outta the office and back to the garage !

Jim

[novanutcase]

Lookin' good Jim!!!

John

[ZVT]

I have always wanted a 356 porsche in fact it was one of the first cars I photshopped(See Pic)
That is going to be one amazing ride and with the C5 goodies :hail: WOW!!

Wish I had the abilities or patience to do something like that.
http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/8981/1088036898033943642S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1088036898033943642ZfMJoL)

Zee

[Garage Dog 65]

Wow !!!

Zee that's awesome man ! Now that's what I'm talking about.

I was checking yesterday and found several 356 cars without engines for around 7 K. I plan to track my build and see what the costs are - so maybe you should start saving now and build one too !!!

Really enjoyed the photochop - Thanks ! :thumbsup:

Jim

[87wildside]

I have always wanted a 356 porsche in fact it was one of the first cars I photshopped(See Pic)
That is going to be one amazing ride and with the C5 goodies :hail: WOW!!

Wish I had the abilities or patience to do something like that.
http://inlinethumb22.webshots.com/8981/1088036898033943642S600x600Q85.jpg (http://rides.webshots.com/photo/1088036898033943642ZfMJoL)

ZeeIs there any way you could send me a larger copy of that ( the lower pic )? I always loved the 356. I don't even know what to say about this build other then :bow: :hail: [email protected]

[ZVT]

Wow !!!

Zee that's awesome man ! Now that's what I'm talking about.

I was checking yesterday and found several 356 cars without engines for around 7 K. I plan to track my build and see what the costs are - so maybe you should start saving now and build one too !!!

Really enjoyed the photochop - Thanks ! :thumbsup:

Jim
Thanks Jim.

If you could please send me the list of 356"s I have been contemplating a 67-68 mustang build but a 356 will be right up there if i find the right [email protected]

87wildside:If you click on the pic it will make it take you to my webshots gallery with a larger pic.

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi Zee,

Couple places routinely post 356 cars.

Best place is the 356 Registry www.356Registry.org Check the classified pages.

Ebay has a yellow 64B coupe with no motor right now.

www.Craigslist.org Check California area for the most possibilities.

Bob Campbell sells a bunch at www.356Sales.com

I found mine at Bob Campbell's place for 6 K. It was a complete car - just not assembled or painted. Motor/Trans/Suspension and Interior needed to be rebuilt. All metal work was done. Well, until I attacked it with a sawsall and wiz wheel ... but that's another story. :lol:

If I see one I'll PM you.

Jim

[ProTouring442]

Kinda funny but I was just talking to my wife about building her a 356 Cabriolet replicar. There are a couple out there that look pretty cool. One uses a Honda engine and the other uses a Subaru. Both are mid-motors with a nice sized trunk.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[novanutcase]

WOW!! That chop sure puts a perspective on things! Looks great!

Jim? When ya gonna finish it? It's going to be AWESOME!!!:hail:

John

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi John,

My goal is to have the all the fab work done by the end of the year so I can send it out for paint 1st qtr 08. I'm not getting much work done on it this summer - so I hope to spend a bunch of time in the garage this fall. Ordered a bunch more parts this week. Building the A-Arm mount brackets this week. That big pile of tubing is calling for some attention. I doubt I'll have it done by Columbus - but who knows.... end of summer 08 is a more reasonable time frame. You'll have racked up a bunch of miles before I ever hit the road - but I'll be coming !

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

More parts arrived. Front 3 are interior lights. Center is the light under the dash pad. The other 2 go at the top of the B piller. They don't look like it - but they are 3 posn rocker switches, left is on, right is off and center uses the door pins. A nice part if anyone is looking for a simple square light in the kick panels, under dash or trunk.

The back 3 are exterior rear lights. 2 that go on the bumper facing up for the license plate light. The other is the backup light assy. That's it for all the interior and exterior lights except the headlight bulbs. Gotta run over to the Harley Davidson store and see if they can identify the bulbs in the orange 55 chevy at Columbus.

Also blasted and primered the bumper brackets - I needed to get something finished so it feels like I'm moving forward....

[dave96dcm]

WOW I just read this entire thread and it is extremely inspirational, I gotto go work on something now.

[Garage Dog 65]

Parts coming back from the waterjet shop. Really amazing what those guys and their machines can do.

Rear upper frame/a-arm brackets and adjusters. 4130 plate cut for a dual 1.5 tube frame and M12 1 3/4 adjuster. Changing the adjusters from the lower arms (stock posn) - to the upper one's so I can remove the lower transaxle cage without worrying about an alignment. (doing it like Rodger/John's Nova and Johnson's G-Force Cuda) Still need to round all the edges and mill in the pocket for the adjuster. Will replace the adjusters with stainless ARP 12 points and stainless eccentric washers - should be purdy...

[Garage Dog 65]

Well, it's been way to long guys....

Started fabbing up the center backbone portion of the chassis. Had to build up the front sections of the exhaust to get final measurements for the tunnel width. 2 exhaust tubes at 2.5 plus two chassis tubes of 1.5 plus some space on both sides. Some 2.5 straight pieces, four 45s, two 90s and two 2.5 header flanges. (All from Summit for $200)

I plan to wrap the entire exhaust and add some heat shielding in the tunnel.

Also bent up a chassis tube to see how it fit in. Front a-arm attachment tabs will hopefully come in this week from the waterjet guys. Been waiting a month - but the holidays slow everyone down I guess.

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

Reading this months Super Rod (Feb pg 108) and they listed the little alignment tool they use to align and tack weld their exhaust work. I built one outta a scrap of 2.5 tube and it worked great.

Take a piece of tube about 2 inches long - drill four 1 in holes every 90 degrees - split one side - and tack on a couple hose clamps. Install and tack through the holes - made it so easy to hold the tube square while you zero a tack weld !

[Bowtieracing]

Reading this months Super Rod (Feb pg 108) and they listed the little alignment tool they use to align and tack weld their exhaust work. I built one outta a scrap of 2.5 tube and it worked great.




Hello Jim!

We both subscribe same mag ! I love Super rod because it has best "how to do it " tech and detailed project features than any other magazine i know.

That exhaust trick was from Jeff Lilly restorations. I think they are one of the "best kept secrets" in wery high quality fab work.

Have you seen this :

http://www.jefflilly.com/Fabrication/new.html

Hundrets of really awsome tech tips :wow: !!!!!!

[Garage Dog 65]

Wow, Thanks ! There is a bunch of info on their site and I haven't been there before. Thanks !!

[67turbostang]

i really like this project :thumbsup: ... keep the pics coming

[Garage Dog 65]

Christmas present from my wife Julie arrived today. Does she know she's supporting my addiction with stuff like this .... ??

[krptonite]

thats cool! your wife really supports you or she is trying to drop a subtle hint you spend too much time in there!!! lol!:D

[Garage Dog 65]

Took some vacation time so I could work on the car. Backbone and lower A-arm pickups almost done. Should get the a-arm tabs from the water jet guy tomorrow - that is if the nascar guys will stop it with the last minute orders for Daytona....

Rodger at www.ironworksspeedandkustom.com stepped in at the last minute and bent some hoops for me - benders in my area had a 4 - 6 week lead time and I waited too late. Thanks Rodger !!! (and shipping in a Budnik box was perfect !)

I've never done this before - and it took a couple (now scrap) tubes to get the hang of bending offsets. I could bend 2 in a row, but when I tried to do the entire piece with 4 bends on this style bender - both sets would be on different planes and dog legged something awful. So I split it in half and will stub in an insert.

Going to complete the backbone tomorrow and finish clearing the underbody for the perimeter tubes that connect to the backbone.

Jim

[ironworks]

Wow that California tubing sure looks great. But i'm not sure if you would call that a budnik box, more like an envelope.

Project is looking good. Almost done.

[Garage Dog 65]

Back Bone in. Time to get the tube notcher setup. No parts from the waterjet guys today .... bummer.

[Garage Dog 65]

Little slower then I wanted - but it's moving along. Learning a lot of new stuff. Math formulas for bending offsets and hoops (and I remember why I hated math class), using my new bender, and notching tubing while staying in-phase with the other end. This is much harder then the chassis guys on this site make it look.....

Tacked some stuff together and built the upper set of tubes. Had to cut away all the shifter brackets and wire clamps - so I stuck it in with plastic ties to help locate the upper tube. Put the exhaust back in to check clearance there. Seat clearance is 18 inches now. I'll have to cut 2 inches outta my stock touring seats - and also get some other race/street seats.

Question: should I run the upper tubes as high as possible - or does it matter ? The dual perimeter tubes will be 4 - 5 inches apart. Would it be best to match that distance with the backbone's upper and lower tube too ?

Thx for any feedback, comments, concerns, ideas.... :thumbsup:

Hope to start getting suspension tabs next week....

All in all - it was a fun week and made some progress, Jim

[tjbruning]

cool project! :thumbsup:

[ironworks]

If you need water jet parts I can do that for ya. My guy takes about 2 hours after I email him the design. Let me know. See this summer DAD. the project looks great and that shorty torque tubes look hilarious.

[Garage Dog 65]

cool project! :thumbsup:

Thanks TJ ! I have been constantly watching your project and the progress you and your Dad make. I'm amazed at how fast you guys are and the creativity and craftsmanship is awesome ! That will be one wicked machine !

Jim

[Beach Cruiser]

Nice work! Must be tough working in such cramped confines! :lol: I feel your pain, I've been waiting on the waterjet guy now for 3 weeks! Waiting on the tabs and brackets for the suspension pickups just like you! Hopefully I'll have some stuff to post on the "Beach Cruiser" after this weekend. Nice job! :cheers:

[ironworks]

If you guys send me the measurements with your patterns I can take care of it quicker then that. Ask Jim I was the lowest bidder and about 3 weeks early. We do that stuff daily so it is no big deal.

Rodger

[Garage Dog 65]

Yup, e-mailed him one day with the measurements - and had the parts the next week across country. He even called the day he shipped with the info and final billing.

Fast and courteous too ! :thumbsup:

[ironworks]

HAHA you said courteous, lets not tell lies now Jim.

[Garage Dog 65]

Worked up some ideas for the trans mount. This one still isn't quite right (a little too square or flat or something...) but I did a mock up to see how it would look. Hope to drop it off at the machine shop Monday.

The bushings are from Pete and Jakes. It's their 4 bar link bushing. Got the part number from Alan Johnson - it's what they used on the G-Force 'Cuda.

Need to adjust the rear instant center this weekend so I can finalize the rear suspension tabs. Read the Adams book on how to measure and set that - thanks Rodger for pointing it out ! Unfortunitly I don't have a clue where the center of gravity is now - so I'll have to give it a wag...

Then it's back on the upper section of the backbone and more notching. Plenty of work to do....

[Garage Dog 65]

Other options for the mount.

I took a design cue from TJ's dads challenger mount and adjusted the top so it's not flat and tucks up under the Diff. Then I dropped the bottom at the center point so it's not flat. (Kinda looks like a Batman shield now ..)

#1 is the same concept as the above post - with adjusted top and bottom.
#2 is with a lower bar added to #1.
#3 is from a design cue off the Diff cover (2 arrows pointing in)
#4 is with a center bar to #3.

Like any of those ??

[dave96dcm]

My vote is for #4

[Tiger]

if I have to choose one from a catalog I'd go for #3.
If you are to make it from scratch why not machine 356 or the Porsche logo to it??
just an idea

[Garage Dog 65]

More cutting ....

Clearanced out for the perimeter frame rails. On a Porsche they have a trailing arm rear suspension design with a torsion bar running across the car. I need to remove all that so I can run a dual 1.5 perimeter frame rail around the passenger area and connect to the backbone. There is also a heater inlet tube running right under the torsion bar tube. Hot air comes off the engine - through the tube - through the longitudinals - and into the car. All that needed to be removed.

[Garage Dog 65]

I was amazed again at how much sand was in the frame.

This view shows how the perimeter frame rails will tuck up and under the door recess - turn the corner at the rear tire - and cross over to connect up with the trans hoop. I cut out the jack spur and the rocker supports. The rocker supports will go back in later and be removable. I'm making the frame removable from the body - so there will be body mounts at the front and rear of the door through the door sill. There is a sill plate that will cover it up so it will look stock.

Tiger, I thought about doing the #4 design - and leave an area in the middle where I could drop in a Porsche shield. Thanks for the comment and also thanks for the info on your Porsche brake calipers, much appreciated !

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

Revised the Diff mount. Took the one that used the 2 pointing in arrows from the diff cover. Studs will mount in this mount at the top and will go up through the Diff mount holes and receive 12 point nuts there. Dropped it off at the machine shop today.

Picked up the front suspension lower A-arm mounts. 1/4 inch 4130 cut on a water jet. They mount straight up as shown to get the wheels in as close to the engine as possible. Everything on this little car is unreal tight....

Next is the rear lower susp mounts.

[tjbruning]

diff mount should turn out great :thumbsup:

[ironworks]

Hay jim if your gonna change to poly bushings mock them up now they are wider then the stock rubber ones. I learned the hard way. The are pretty cheap and allow you to rebuild the used arms. The balljoints are easy to push out also to powder coat the arms. Or anodize.....

Rodger

[novanutcase]

WOW!!!! Lot's of progress! Looking good Jim!

John

[Garage Dog 65]

Hay jim if your gonna change to poly bushings mock them up now they are wider then the stock rubber ones. I learned the hard way. The are pretty cheap and allow you to rebuild the used arms. The balljoints are easy to push out also to powder coat the arms. Or anodize.....

Rodger


Great info - Thanks ! I'll get them on order today before I weld up a mistake...

[ironworks]

The uppers are more important then the lowers.

[Garage Dog 65]

wow, after doing some research about types of bushings here - Vette Forum - and over on chevelles.com ..... I think I have brain stem swelling. Oh my aching brain pot.

Any other ideas folks ?

Energy Suspension

http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ENS%2D3%2D3177G&N=700+0&autoview=sku
http://store.summitracing.com/partdetail.asp?autofilter=1&part=ENS%2D3%2D3176G&N=700+0&autoview=sku

Pfadt

http://www.pfadtracing.com/products/prodDetails.asp?pID=42&category=1&subcategory=1&size=0&search=&page=

Vette Brakes

http://www.vbandp.com/detail.aspx?ID=770

Doesn't look like Global West makes stuff for the C5 system.

[Garage Dog 65]

Exhaust hangar grommets came in today.

5$ per 4 grommets pack purchased from Street Rods by Michael.

[ironworks]

The energy suspension ones do not come with inner sleeves and the stock ones are a pain to get out and the wrong size. Buy the others not the energy suspension ones.

[Garage Dog 65]

Looks like I'm going with the stock rubber bushings....

After 2 days of reading, there doesn't seem to be any consensus on any bushing type. A lot of discussions even had mixed types - Poly in upper and rubber in lower, etc.... cold flow, squeaking, binding, deflecting, deteriorating, grease – no grease, graphite – no graphite, too harsh -not harsh.

I guess I'll go with GM's research dollars and stay with the stock material. If it doesn’t work – I can spend the dollars later.

If I had gone poly - I would have chosen these:

http://www.pfadtracing.com/products/...&search=&page=

Maybe the problem is I read too much. Just do it !

[Garage Dog 65]

More parts coming in. This is from Ebay. Vette pedal assy.

I went to a car show this weekend here in IND and GM had a LS3 crate on display.... I can see how people get away from their budget. That is one awesome little package with a show price of 5K. That's very tempting.... Focus man - focus !

[Mick Mc]

Exhaust hangar grommets came in today.

5$ per 4 grommets pack purchased from Street Rods by Michael.


Jim

Explain these for me, or a couple of pictures...

Mick

[Garage Dog 65]

Hi Mick,

They are mount isolators. A pipe/muffler mounting tab is attached inside the isolator 'clip' - and it's then bolted to the frame or another strap mount from the frame/body. The pipe then hangs from a rubber isolated hangar.

http://www.streetrodcatalog.com/products/accessories/accessories.shtml

[Fluid Power]

That is a good price, I paid $3.47 EACH from Stainless Works!

Darren

[Mick Mc]

Jim
Thanks for the link and pictures. You know I like pictures.

I was thinking about using the rod and donut hangers like the new cars do, but these might be a great substitute.

Can you send me a link to the tubing bender you bought?

Thanks
Mick

Are we meeting for Columbus?

[Garage Dog 65]

I'd like to use the donut style - but this little car has zero room left over - so I'm going with the smallest packaging I can get. The donut style have a ton more flex and isolation and would be a good solution with available space.

Columbus is a go ! I plan to stay for several days this time and leave late Sunday night to drive back to IND (4 hrs).

If you mean the car in Columbus - maybe 09.....

[Mick Mc]

Jim

We should start looking for rooms in Columbus. Someplace fun. I ready to get out of town and see some old friends...

Call me.
PM for phone or ask Rodger.

Mick

[Garage Dog 65]

Spoke to the tech support line at Pfadt. Their bushings have grooves like the Global West design that allows the lube to move. They also use polished alum inserts to reduce friction, binding and the squeaking. You can also easily remove the alum inserts to re-lube if needed. The diameter and widths are stock GM rubber measurements. They have their poly bushings on several C5 and C6 vettes that are daily drivers with lots of miles - no squeaks or other problems. I'll order those.

Geez, who woulda thought bushings would be a tough choice ....

http://www.pfadtracing.com/products/prodDetails.asp?pID=42&category=1&subcategory=1&size=0&search=&page=

[Garage Dog 65]

Motor Mounts installed. Went with the Morrision versions - very nice product and tucks up close to the block and gives me the max room.

Transmission mount should be done tomorrow or Tuesday. I'm going to go over and watch them CNC those outta billet - so that should be fun. The shop told me it took 40 thousand lines of code to do one side - then they flip it in the jig - and do it all over again. Design looked really cool on the autocad screen. I'll try to get a screen print while I'm there too.

[Nate_ERC]

I'd like to see that. :thumbsup:

[hotrodf1]

Well,

It took a few days of reading here and there, but I read it all. Very cool project. I love the attention to detail. That's going to be an impressive ride from every angle, even beneath from the looks of it. :unibrow:

Do you have an english wheel to make the curved panels for stiching the body back together? I guess that car is steel body panels right?

[Garage Dog 65]

Howdy !

Thanks for the kind words about the 356G ! I just hope to keep making progress so it gets finished.

I do have an english wheel and a planishing hammer - plus a bunch of basic hammers, dollies, slappers and other metalworking hand tools. The panels that I need to make have very little crown in them - so it shouldn't be much of a challenge - which is a good thing because I haven't done much of this except in a race car fab 2 week class. But I have a bunch of pros around that can step in and fix whatever I mess up or can't do.

Yes, the car is all steel at this time. Not sure I'll do the Trunk and Hood in steel - but maybe. I have 6 rolls of pre-preg carbon fiber in the deep freeze and a hot bonder in the shop for that part of the project - so we'll see when I get there if I want to do more work taking splashes off the exisiting parts and then building up the molds for the finished parts.

Hope'd to see the transmission mount get machined today - but I've again been bumped by higher paying jobs... little fish - big pond.

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

Thought I'd explain what a Hot Bonder is. Most aircraft these days are built using composite materials. So when those components get damaged, lightening strikes, bird strikes, hail damage, etc - we use portable Hot Bonders to go fix the damage instead of moving the plane or the component to the shop.

These type units have built in heater circuits, thermocouple detection circuits, vac pumps, computer controlled cure cycles - and a printer to printout the cure cycle for the part's repair record as proof the patch/repair was done per the structural repair manual.

Anyway, I bought one from surplus at our airline when they bought a bunch of new 'dual' units (2 of all the above in one portable unit). You do the repair - then put a heater blanket on top connected to the processor controlled heater circuit, put several thermocouples in there connected to the monitor circuit, vac bag/seal the deal - and then select the appropriate 'cure' cycle on the processor and go. I also bought several rolls 'out of shelf life' pre-preg carbon fiber (already has the resin in the cloth) and have that in the deep freeze with the pizza and pasta..... good enough for hoods and seats.

You can also vac bag a 'wet layup' if you have a vac source. That's the last pic it's a portable vac source for doing standard wet layups where you mix and add the resin to the dry fiber on the part or in a mold - then bag it and squish it with vac and a bleeder cloth to remove excess resins.

Wet layup is very messy - while pre-preg is not, but it's expensive for the materials and tools needed.

[hotrodf1]

Pretty neat stuff. You have an interesting position there with your aircraft background. I did a little of the wet style stuff back in material engineering class in college. It was a lot of fun. I would love to be able to put it to practical use, but I don't have a vacuum pump or anything.

[Garage Dog 65]

Took a few hours off this morning to watch as Accurate Driveline and Machining started the machine work on the transmission mount. Chunk of 1.5 billet, about 2 hours and 40,000 lines of commands to complete. Really amazing and is the first time I've taken something from a sketch to a finished machined part. Mark at ADM is a workaholic like the rest of us. Helps run his fathers business - 2 kids - and supports and races mid-west sprint, midget, and legend cars. The last shot is just a few of the parts he provides for the midget and legend racers - and he also does fender badges if someone needs one. Should pickup the finished part tomorrow - and I'll have some Cad files of the part. http://www.accuratedriveline.com/

[syborg tt]

so do we even want to know what that cost ??

Took a few hours off this morning to watch as Advanced Driveline and Machining started the machine work on the transmission mount. Chunk of 1.5 billet, about 2 hours and 40,000 lines of commands to complete. Really amazing and is the first time I've taken something from a sketch to a finished machined part. Mark at ADM is a workaholic like the rest of us. Helps run his fathers business - 2 kids - and supports and races mid-west sprint, midget, and legend cars. The last shot is just a few of the parts he provides for the midget and legend racers - and he also does fender badges if someone needs one. Should pickup the finished part tomorrow - and I'll have some Cad files of the part.

[Mick Mc]

Yea, what he said.

Mick

[syborg tt]

Yea, what he said.

Mick


Post Hi-Jack

Hi Mick :thumbsup:

[Mick Mc]

Hi Marty
Man your truck (pick-up) is looking great.

I'm all about the numbers. Come on Jim give us the dollar amounts. We need some reality numbers.


Mick

No Hi Jack, Jim is doing an awsome build and I love the build details.

[Bowtieracing]

Keep dollar amounts to your self. This is hobby not a bragging contest.

[oorange67]

Great project looking forward to future updates.....

[syborg tt]

Keep dollar amounts to your self. This is hobby not a bragging contest.

Not really asking for an actual price - just bench racing

[Mick Mc]

Keep dollar amounts to your self. This is hobby not a bragging contest.


Bowtieracing GO PACK YOURSELF

I want, we all want, to know the cost because just maybe I want to have a custom machined piece for my C5 differential and would like to know what it MIGHT cost.
Cost is always a factor, don't get me started on this subject.

Yes this is a 'hobby' ( that seems clear enough)

No this is not a 'bragging contest', the win a contest you must win something (like a trophy) and there is none of that going on here.

Bowtieracing, keep your .02 cents to your self. Maybe your other forums might be a better place to chime in with your asinine comments.


Mick

[Garage Dog 65]

Whoa, let's take it easy my Lat brothers.

I'll get a price and see if he will make it available for order/modification if someone wants one for an upcoming project - and I think Mark will do that no problem. I'm stopping by there during lunch for the CAD/CAM files - I'll let you know. He might actually have it finished this morning. He built a recess jig last night so he could flip it over and do side b.

Jim

[Bowtieracing]

Bowtieracing GO PACK YOURSELF

I want, we all want, to know the cost because just maybe I want to have a custom machined piece for my C5 differential and would like to know what it MIGHT cost.
Cost is always a factor, don't get me started on this subject.

Yes this is a 'hobby' ( that seems clear enough)

No this is not a 'bragging contest', the win a contest you must win something (like a trophy) and there is none of that going on here.

Bowtieracing, keep your .02 cents to your self. Maybe your other forums might be a better place to chime in with your asinine comments.


Mick

Cool it Mick, maybe i got it wrong. I personally feel uncomfortable posting what all cost. Speed costs money..:cheers:

[Bowtieracing]

Not really asking for an actual price - just bench racing


:cheers:

[Garage Dog 65]

Stopped by for a few minutes and did a screen print of the Cam file.

Mark is going to work up a cost for you guys if you want to buy direct from him. I'll let you know what it is tomorrow or Thursday.

http://www.accuratedriveline.com

[Garage Dog 65]

Final came out pretty nice ! Not sure yet how I will finish it - powder, polish or anodize - we'll see. Last one is a quick polish to get the crud off.

Price if someone wants to purchase one from ADM is:

$210 machine time (4 hrs total at 2 hrs per side) plus the bar stock of $153 plus 20 bucks in supplies/fluids = $380.

I paid for the CAD drawing time, the CAM conversion time and the nesting fixture costs.

[HWY Nova]

Nice parts!

The first (and sometimes the only) part is what costs. Having several made at one time obviously gives you economy-of-scale.

Keep up the great build..... and thanks for sharing (pics and relative costs).

--Eric

[Mick Mc]

Jim
Thanks for the info. Now I can tell how far my beer bugdet will go in custom machined parts.

I think I need to work on my AutoCad skills also. Maybe some creative skills too. You seem to have alot of creative ideas floating around. Care to lend me a few?

Mick

[HWY Nova]

Hey Mick,

There is a certain carbuilder that has access to billet design capability!

--Eric

[Garage Dog 65]

Thanks for the kind words Eric and Mick ! Don't know if I'd invest the money and time in AutoCad. It's pretty expensive software (last time I checked it was 3k) and a little difficult to learn - so spend your time dreaming up stuff to build, and let someone else who is already knowledgable on the software do the file for you. This was a fun project and I really enjoyed the experience. Hope I didn't upset anyone sharing the price of this stuff. I only did it so that people could see what a custom part for their project might cost them. I know I had no idea - so I hope you'll find it helpfull.

When I picked up my stuff - I got to see what bumped my project. They are the drive shaft ends for Dodge trucks. Solid billet and milled inside and out. Really nice quality in person - and the pics don't do them much justice.

[syborg tt]

Thank you very much for the info on the parts. It's very helpful.

ROn Wilson on this BB has been doing some of my cad work and his prices are really good. He & I worked together to come up with the billet hood pins. SO if your looking for some design work his prices are very fair.

[Mick Mc]

Jim
Thanks for the prices, it really helps with the planning of machine work and finance.

My Autocad skills are good and I have access to the program, but I want to learn Solidworks then rodger and I could communicate more clearly...

Keep us (me) posted on the progress, and on the prices. All this information (prices and pictures) helps us (me) to make better quality build decisions and to stay motivated when saving for the next item on the build list.

If some on is offended then they can skip the price part, I think Disney Land works like that.

Mick

[Mick Mc]

Thank you very much for the info on the parts. It's very helpful.

ROn Wilson on this BB has been doing some of my cad work and his prices are really good. He & I worked together to come up with the billet hood pins. SO if your looking for some design work his prices are very fair.


Marty

I looked up Ron Wilson on the members page but didn't see his name. How about some help or a link or...

Mick

[syborg tt]

Marty

I looked up Ron Wilson on the members page but didn't see his name. How about some help or a link or...

Mick


how about a e-mail addy

[email protected]

[Garage Dog 65]

Lost my job today.... boy aviation is a bear right now !

http://www.msnbc.msn.com/id/23933230/

Looks like the 356G will go into cold storage for a while.

Jim

[wiedemab]

Wow- I'm sorry to hear that.

I'd be happy to keep my eye out for jobs in the Cincy area if you let me know what you are interested in.

I'm sure something will come along.

[Fluid Power]

Jim,

That stinks. Netjets is expanding here in Columbus....

http://www.netjets.com/Footer_Content/Careers.asp

Hope this helps...

Darren

[Garage Dog 65]

THANKS for the kind words and the info guys !

Think I'll chill for a couple weeks working in the garage with the parts I do have - get a jump on the yard and garden - and clear my mind for a while.

I think I'm done with aviation unless something very interesting comes along. Been working on aircRaft since a junior in high school - so it might be an opportunity to try something else and transfer those skills. I live here in Brownsburg IN - so there are a ton of motorsports stuff happening just 6 miles from my house. Might be time to jump into motorsports, or a hot rod shop or something like that since that's really where my passions are these days. I'm a confident kinda guy - so it will all work out.

For now - it's time for a BEER !

:thumbsup:

Jim

[monza]

:cheers:

Don't slack off to long, looking forward to seeing the completed project some day!

[ironworks]

Wow that is bummer. I guess you have enough time to metal finish the car to perfection. Wanna move to cali?

Rodger

[syborg tt]

Sorry about your situation.

I am sure you will land something soon.

[ironworks]

No pun intended.

Rodger

[syborg tt]

No pun intended.

Rodger


really this never crossed my mind - i think i'm losing it.

[Garage Dog 65]

It was still pretty funny Marty !:rofl:

Rodger, working at Ironworks would be very cool !!

I'll catch up to everyone in Columbus. Until then - I'll be practicing my new skills:

Want fries with that...

Paper or plastic...

Wanna Biggie size that for a buck 1.50 more...

Will that be With or Without cheese...

[ironworks]

You should go with those other job offers you talked about they probably pay way better and have room to advance. I build cars cuz it is the dream and is the most stress free job you can have. Get up at noon build a few cars go home at 3. Watch oprah and get RRRRIIICCCCHHHHH...... ( AS chris rock would say )

We will need a driver this summer in Columbus, And some one to guard the cars and trucks at night. Lets just hope the Trekys dont like hot rods.

Live long and prosper.

[Mick Mc]

Jim
Glad you were at Columbus, (you better be there this year) the inside jokes are at a all time high...
Sorry to everyone who is scratching their head and kind of laughing it all of the the inside jokes.
If you want in on the joke show up at Columbus and hang out. THis year will be better than last year, but hang on, it will be wild.

If you stay at our hotel it might not be crazy but every one will be talking about it for years. (the force is still a hoot)
Jim and Bob Ryder we need you again this year. Jim you have no excuse to leave early this year. Hang out have some fun, watch John sign autographs and the tall guy will explain the suspension configuration of a car that is SO low but drive-able. Bob will make a living, Marty will snap every picture possible, and I will find the tattoo girl and get caught by Chip and almost miss our plane. This year we get an awning and lawn chairs. Both John and Rodger will need smiles and a hand full of sharpies to keep up with the fans. I guess that makes me the beer fetcher and luggage hauler, no problem.

J2 and Kenny will round out the fun factor. Who will add to this years excitment?



Mick

[syborg tt]

I'm in and i'm brining a new Camara -- This one has Video

:woot:


Jim
Glad you were at Columbus, (you better be there this year) the inside jokes are at a all time high...
Sorry to everyone who is scratching their head and kind of laughing it all of the the inside jokes.
If you want in on the joke show up at Columbus and hang out. THis year will be better than last year, but hang on, it will be wild.

If you stay at our hotel it might not be crazy but every one will be talking about it for years. (the force is still a hoot)
Jim and Bob Ryder we need you again this year. Jim you have no excuse to leave early this year. Hang out have some fun, watch John sign autographs and the tall guy will explain the suspension configuration of a car that is SO low but drive-able. Bob will make a living, Marty will snap every picture possible, and I will find the tattoo girl and get caught by Chip and almost miss our plane. This year we get an awning and lawn chairs. Both John and Rodger will need smiles and a hand full of sharpies to keep up with the fans. I guess that makes me the beer fetcher and luggage hauler, no problem.

J2 and Kenny will round out the fun factor. Who will add to this years excitment?



Mick

[J2SpeedandCustom]

Jim sorry to hear about the job. Hopefully the "new" direction will be better than the previous. See you at Columbus!

I'm in and i'm brining a new Camara -- This one has Video

:woot:

We'll be there for the duration this year! Marty we'll have to video some rental car autocross...:unibrow:

[wiedemab]

I've got to get in on some of this Columbus action!

Last year at Columbus we had a "Hauntfest" or some BS at our Hotel. It was pretty wild. A few chicks in nothing but body paint that were good looking and a few more that should have had on more than body paint.

Anyway - I'm definitely looking forward to Columbus!

I was just in Brownsburg with a buddy of mine a few weeks ago picking up some Mini-Sprint parts from John Godfrey's shop (Spike Chassis). I didn't realize how many motorsports teams were based out of that area - quite a few.

Again - Good Luck and I hope you are able to relax for awhile and find something you are really passionate about!

[Ketzer]

Dang, my favorite project sidelined.
Hope this turns out to be a positive change for you :thumbsup: .

[tjbruning]

Dang, my favorite project sidelined.
Hope this turns out to be a positive change for you :thumbsup: .

one of my favorites too... I'm sure things will work out for you.... :thumbsup:

Or, take some time off, put the AMEX card to work, finish your "Porschette," THEN find a job. I know my wife would love that idea if I was in your situation :lol:

the car name is on the house if you decide to use it :rolleyes: :cool:

[Tiger]

Hey man, soory about you loosing your job.
I dont know how it works over there but when it happened to me I started working on finding a new job and found a new job after a few weeks, then we agreed that I was to start after three months (to have some garage time.)

[Mrfixit]

I sure would like to see this one started up again. Anyone heard anything?

[HWY Nova]

I sure would like to see this one started up again. Anyone heard anything?

Now that you mention it, I have been talking to Jim about his project, and I am in the process of taking his sketches and producing SolidWorks files so he can have brackets cut on a water-jet machine.

Stay tuned....... Jim should chime in soon!!

I'm glad he is working on it again. I was lucky enough to hang out with him at the Goodguys Columbus Show this year (and last year). He even joined Rodger (Ironworks) and I for a visit to Rad Rides!


--Eric

[Karl Buchka]

Very nice build you've got going here! Looking forward to updates.

[Garage Dog 65]

Thanks for the continued interest in the project everyone !

Not much action to report. Most of the work I'm doing right now is design stuff. Little work on the actual car to report that's worth anything. Mostly just designing out stuff in my head like the rest of you.

Eric is doing the chassis brackets for me in solidworks and I've been working with Chad to design out the fuel system. Built the body to chassis mounts that weld into the sill plate panel and are hidden by the sill rubber - just not welded to the car yet. Chem stripped the hood and trunk panels here at home - then had them media blasted so I can start my fiberglass molds. I plan to make a temp widened Fglass hood - then make another mold and do the final one in CF that I have here at the house in the freezer. Redesigned the shifter from a rod to a porsche 997 cable actuated setup so I can move the stock shifter assy to the middle of the car (stock is left) and sink it down between the chassis tubes.

Just lots of design drawings and excel spreadsheets to get costs. Still don't have a job... Hoping the first quarter thaw brings some employers back out.

Jim

[nvr2fst]

Jim, Once you get things rolling again may I suggest you move this to the ongoing project section. I seem to follow those more often.

[crafty]

Hey Jim,

Awesome project!!!....Im doing a 356 with a midmounted Audi V8.

http://www.kustomcoachwerks.com/forums/viewtopic.php?t=4932&postdays=0&postorder=asc&start=0&sid=3d46310d17d3c35a7ba42cb12c7bb4c1

Ive sent you a PM.

[Garage Dog 65]

Awesome project Grant ! LOVE it !!

Looking forward to watching your buildup when you get the body over to your country !!!

Thanks for checking out this project !

Jim

[GregWeld]

Jim! You find that dream job yet buddy??

I sure hope so!!

:thumbsup:

[Garage Dog 65]

Jim! You find that dream job yet buddy??

I sure hope so!!

:thumbsup:

Hi Greg ! Hope you're doing well !

Been at my new job now for about 5 months. I manage a composites engineering company here in indianapolis called Applied Composites Engineering. Very cool place and I'm working my tail off trying to get settled in. Learning a ton of stuff about composite manufacturing and repair, design, cnc, cmm, etc - and I can't wait to put some of this awesome technology into the the 356G !!

Here's some links to my new home away from home where I spend all my time.

http://www.appliedcomposites.com/

http://www.appliedcomposites.com/tour/

[GregWeld]

Good to hear!!

That line of work looks awesome! We have lots of composite places in Seattle area because of Boeing I think. Good to stay ahead of the curve! So many people I know stay in jobs that are "dying industries" -- and then can't figure out why they have no work. Best to push that envelope a bit huh!

Anyway - hadn't seen a post for awhile so just thought I'd rattle your cage. :D

[Garage Dog 65]

I don't get to drop in here much, but don't give up on me !

I'll be back.

Jim

[dave96dcm]

Update?

[ccracin]

He looks at it a lot! Sometimes he even rubs on it. :D

[ironworks]

I saw it last week. It's still in his garage. In 2 pieces, not quite welded back together again. Not much has changed. :D :D :D

[Garage Dog 65]

Needed to widen the rear of the fenders to square them up to get the rear of the opening the same distance from the tire/wheel as the front of the opening is. Cut out the rear tail lights. Found the flattest spot on the fender to widen the fender at the back 2.5 inches. Taped it out and cut the fender all the way to the door jam. Measured and set both sides to the same width – then inserted metal strips and held them in place with clecos.

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender01.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender02.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender03.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender04.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender05.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender06.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender07.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender08.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender09.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender11.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Fender12.jpg

Jim

[GregWeld]

I don't understand why you cut the light out - why not leave it where it was and simply cut around it on the fender side you wished to move out leaving the original location - and then making a fill panel between it and the moved section. Did it look 'funny'??

Nice work by the way - and my question is not being critical - I'm simply trying to understand and learn the "thought process"... without a rendering etc to see the changes you're making.

[RS_Customs]

Cool! glad to see your still playing with the car. Keep up the nice work!

Robert

[ccracin]

I don't understand why you cut the light out - why not leave it where it was and simply cut around it on the fender side you wished to move out leaving the original location - and then making a fill panel between it and the moved section. Did it look 'funny'??

Nice work by the way - and my question is not being critical - I'm simply trying to understand and learn the "thought process"... without a rendering etc to see the changes you're making.

Don't worry Greg, it's just photoshop. He didn't "actually" get some work done. If it is real, love it!

[Garage Dog 65]

I don't understand why you cut the light out - why not leave it where it was and simply cut around it on the fender side you wished to move out leaving the original location - and then making a fill panel between it and the moved section. Did it look 'funny'??

Nice work by the way - and my question is not being critical - I'm simply trying to understand and learn the "thought process"... without a rendering etc to see the changes you're making.

Hey Greg !

I plan to move the light assy into the new center of the fender to balance it. But, I could have left it where it was and just cut around it as you suggested - and then moved it later if I didn't like the finished look. Honestly didn't think about it at the time. I guess it's a good thing I'm not a surgeon huh ... :wow:

And, don't ever worry about something coming across as critical. I'm always looking for other opinions, viewpoints and guidance. Any and all feedback are always appreciated !! :thumbsup:

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

I'm simply trying to understand and learn the "thought process"... without a rendering etc to see the changes you're making.

Just additional info on why I'm doing this mod. It's hard to tell from the pictures - but if you look closely you'll see there is about 4 inches of space between the front of the fender opening and the rear tire - while the rear part of the fender is actually rubbing on the tire sidewall. So adding a 3 inch 'pie' insert at the rear of the fender - equals out the distance between the front sidewall to fender and rear sidewall to fender clearances. Clear as mud huh ... I'm just sayin. :P

Jim

[GregWeld]

AH HA! Went back and looked at the photos after the explanation. Now I see what you're trying to correct. The photos just don't really show that... unless you've been clued in.

It's always fascinated me when I see "layouts" of top chops - fender extensions - or other body mods like this.... as to where why and how the lines are figured out. I wanted to chop the top on my '36 Ford.... it's a multiple cut attack... and I look at the lines but I never "understand" why or how they came about. Thus the cut line question concerning the tail light. The pie cut was obvious... but the light cut was a puzzle for me.

[ccracin]

I give anyone credit that chops on the "curvy" cars. Takes a lot of thought and work. I like the pie cuts, it will be subtle when done. The lights will tell you where they need to be. Does that make sense? Great work.

[HWY Nova]

Jim,

Just checking in. Are you burning the midnight oil???

It's great to see your awesome project pics!!!



--Eric

[Garage Dog 65]

Jim,

Just checking in. Are you burning the midnight oil???

It's great to see your awesome project pics!!!



--Eric

Hi Eric !

Yeah, after a year and a half at my new job - I'm just starting to know enough about our company processes and stuff so that I can come home at a regular time not completely exhausted. So It's time to get this project back in gear and get it done ! (I've built it a couple hundred times in my mind...)

Hope work is going well and you landed a couple of those important contracts !!

Jim

[Ketzer]

When I saw the cut on the quarter, I knew exactly what you were fixing! Same thing has always bugged me about the 356s.
Glad to see you are back at it! (now if I could just get motivated)
Jeff-

[Garage Dog 65]

Here it is finished welded and sanded.... Is that what you were thinking Jeff ?? Didn't really come out like I had envisioned it in my mind. :rofl:

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/JetMod.jpg

Jim

[HWY Nova]

Here it is finished welded and sanded.... Is that what you were thinking Jeff ?? Didn't really come out like I had envisioned it in my mind. :rofl:

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/JetMod.jpg

Jim

Jim,

Now you've done it!!...... Greg won't know what to think with this one.



--Eric

[ccracin]

:wow: :faint:

[Garage Dog 65]

Man you get going on that english wheel and you just can't stop yourself !!!

:yes:

Jim

[GregWeld]

Jim,

Now you've done it!!...... Greg won't know what to think with this one.



--Eric



Well.... he totally screwed the tail light move!



:D

[Ketzer]

Uhhhmmm.... ok Jim, maybe we are on different levels here. I was thinking slightly less taper in the rear :rofl:

Jeff-

[70rs]

I'm thinking a jet turbine, small light car = huge fun factor....:D

[HWY Nova]

It's been several days now..... Any updates?


--Eric

[ironworks]

It's been several days now..... Any updates?


--Eric

If there are any I'm sure they are small....Because I doubt you can have a big update on a small project.

[Garage Dog 65]

Not much to report on the car, sorry. Started a deck for my neighbor while I was un-employed – and then when I started my new job I stopped working on it. I had most of it done except for the 2 stair cases and some of the railings. Worked on it a couple weekends. Now I have the week off and I’m trying to get it done for them. I have been working on the car a bit the past couple weeks in the evenings. I’m also starting to pick the colors and some of the design concepts. I’ll update later tomorrow with those. I’ll share some deck pics so you don’t think I’m a total slacker….

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Deck/Deck-01.jpg

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Deck/Deck-02-1.jpg

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Deck/Deck-03-1.jpg

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Deck/Deck-04-1.jpg

Jim

[GregWeld]

I've got some work for you in Seattle!

That's nice work!

[c10addict]

Great meeting you at Indy... Subscribed!!!

[Garage Dog 65]

Thanks much ! Great to meet the crew from RPM and put more faces to the names from this site. I really enjoyed the discussion on the Nova and that you guys drive that bad boy !! Beautiful work :thumbsup:

Hope you had a great weekend in Indy and caught some sales to keep ya busy !

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

Little update for you.

Going to make a carbon fiber Hood and GT Porsche Seats from my steel originals.
Needed to media-blast, seal, fill, prime and topcoat the parts so I could pull a mold off them. A lot of work… really good to have friends that do this kinda work daily !

Hood

20 year old primer was chem-stripped.
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Hood-01.jpg
Found sub-primer rusting
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Hood-02.jpg
So I had it media-blasted
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Hood-03.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Hood-04.jpg
Then body work and sealer.
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Hood-06.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Hood-05.jpg
Then top coat in black
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Hood-07.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Hood-08.jpg

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

Same process for the seats

GT Seats

Bare Steel Seat
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Seat-01.jpg
Media-blasted
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Seat-02.jpg
Seal and body work
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Seat-03.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Seat-04.jpg
Fill all the vent holes so I can pull a mold off it without all that stuff
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Seat-05.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Seat-06.jpg
Prime and Top Coat
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Seat-07.jpg

Jim

[Garage Dog 65]

We also have a scanner arm at work and we will make a cloud point scan from the parts – stitch them together using Poly-works software – and then drop that into Solidworks and CAM out a mold.

Here’s a sample of how it works.

http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Scan-01.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Scan-02.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Scan-03.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Scan-04.jpg
Also have to scan the seat mounts and build/install those separate.
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Scan-05.jpg

Jim

[HWY Nova]

Awesome...... More pics please!


--Eric

[Garage Dog 65]

Hey Eric !

Eric was so kind as to CAD my rear lower a-arm and transmission mount designs for me ! Thx Bro !

I have those files out at a 5 axis water jet shop right now being cut outta .250 4130 plate.

Trans Mounts
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Rear-Lower-A-Arms-and-Trans-Mounts-00a.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Rear-Lower-A-Arms-and-Trans-Mounts-00.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Trans-Mount-Rear-00.jpg

A-Arm Mounts
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Rear-Lower-A-arms-02.jpg
http://i940.photobucket.com/albums/ad241/Garage_Dog_65/Vette%20Chassis/Rear-Lower-A-arms-01.jpg

I also punched them out at work in just flat fiberglass on our CNC to make sure they would fit like we thought – but I can’t find the pics right now. I’ll have to re-shoot them tonight…

THX again Eric for your help !!!

356G would not happen without all the help and ideas from everyone on this site – so THX !

Jim

[ccracin]

Show Offs! :thumbsup:

[Ron in SoCal]

You do such cool stuff Jim. Keep posting please...:thumbsup:

[syborg tt]

Awesome to see you back at it.

[Ketzer]

Awesome to see you back at it.


X2!


Jeff-