Best thermal exhaust coating?

[Tuske427]

I have about 800 miles on my car so far and I'm literally melting my driver side engine mount even with header wrap around it. (mount is energy suspension urethane) I've had my headers triple ceramic coated but it's obviously not effective.

Does anyone have any good recommendations on a really high quality and effective header coating? I've had one recommendation on these guys:

http://swaintech.com/race-coatings/race-coating-descriptions/white-lightning-exhaust-coatings/

Does anyone have experience with them? Anyone else?

Moving my header isn't an option. there just isn't room...

Thanks!

[zz430droptop67rs]

How about using solid mounts?

[Tuske427]

How about using solid mounts?

I hadn't considered that. It is an option, and I'm open to it. However, I have no experience with them. I looked around on some forums and seem to get inconsistent comments about them. I would be concerned that solid mounting could stress/ fatigue (work harden) and ultimately destroy my aluminum block. Do you or anyone else have any facts on this one way or the other? What about running one solid mount on the driver side only?

Any info on these would be appreciated.

[waynieZ]

Can you make an aluminum heat shield and slip it on the motor mount bolt to hold it? It might keep enough heat away from the mount. If it helped you could have it reflective coated later to up the protection.

[Ron in SoCal]

I hadn't considered that. It is an option, and I'm open to it. However, I have no experience with them. I looked around on some forums and seem to get inconsistent comments about them. I would be concerned that solid mounting could stress/ fatigue (work harden) and ultimately destroy my aluminum block. Do you or anyone else have any facts on this one way or the other? What about running one solid mount on the driver side only?

Any info on these would be appreciated.

Brendon I have a friend running rubber on one side of the motor and poly on the other. Also have seen a mix of poly on the motor and rubber on the trans tail housing. One thing to with consider is NVH, which makes a street car less fun to drive.

I'm running poly on both the engine and trans and it makes for solid feeling drivetrain and no issue (for me) on the street.

DEI makes some great heat products you might want to check into:

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=designengineering+header+wrap

Good luck buddy :cheers:

[71RS/SS396]

Standard aluma-ceramic coating doesn't really insulate the heat, it aids in dissipating it quicker but it really needs air flow to do that. The idiling in traffic or when you shut the car off is likely when the melting is going on. The only coating that is going to offer any insulating qualities is a full ceramic but it's twice as much money to do. If your going to put wrap on the headers only wrap it in the area where you need it, wrap holds moisture and heat so it will ultimately ruin the coating and header. I would try to make a heat shield and see how that works out.

[Tuske427]

Brendon I have a friend running rubber on one side of the motor and poly on the other. Also have seen a mix of poly on the motor and rubber on the trans tail housing. One thing to with consider is NVH, which makes a street car less fun to drive.

I'm running poly on both the engine and trans and it makes for solid feeling drivetrain and no issue (for me) on the street.

DEI makes some great heat products you might want to check into:

https://www.google.com/webhp?sourceid=chrome-instant&ion=1&espv=2&ie=UTF-8#q=designengineering+header+wrap

Good luck buddy :cheers:

Standard aluma-ceramic coating doesn't really insulate the heat, it aids in dissipating it quicker but it really needs air flow to do that. The idiling in traffic or when you shut the car off is likely when the melting is going on. The only coating that is going to offer any insulating qualities is a full ceramic but it's twice as much money to do. If your going to put wrap on the headers only wrap it in the area where you need it, wrap holds moisture and heat so it will ultimately ruin the coating and header. I would try to make a heat shield and see how that works out.

Can you make an aluminum heat shield and slip it on the motor mount bolt to hold it? It might keep enough heat away from the mount. If it helped you could have it reflective coated later to up the protection.


Thanks, guys. Yeah, I have plenty of DEI products in my engine bay already. All my fuel lines, brake lines, etc. I also currently have my engine mount wrapped with header wrap to protect it and it's still melting through this. I can try a metal heat shield but there isn't much room at all, which is why I'm really looking for an effective thermal barrier coating. I'm fine with forking over the $$ for it as long as it will work. (the company local to me assured me their product would drop my engine heat by 60% with their triple coating and I'm still having these issues) I just don't know where to go for a true full ceramic coating, other than the Swaintech link I provided in my OP.

[71RS/SS396]

Jet Hot can also do a full ceramic coating, it's their 2500 coating.

[Ron Sutton]

Jet Hot can also do a full ceramic coating, it's their 2500 coating.

This is what we use ... inside & out on the exhaust. Jet-Hot High Performance Coatings is one of the few (if not the only) coating company that can truly coat the inside of the header and/or exhaust tubing. I've been working with them since 1987.

In some of our cars, we run the exhaust through the driveline tunnel to both clean up the airflow under the car & allow us to get the car as low as we want or need it. The exhaust runs past the trans & right next to the driver's right leg & hip. The heat would be bad for both if we didn't control it. We us the 2500° coating inside & out on the full exhaust system, plus coat the trans case & inner driveline tunnel panels. The driver doesn't even notice heat from that area, and the transmissions look great.


:thumbsup:

[Twoblackmarks...]

I dont know what engine specs you are running, but if you are running very little ignition advance you get ALOT of heat through the exhaust. It depends on camshaft size a bit also. More cam, needs more Advance.

I dont know exactly what the temp differences are, but it feels like, atleast, a Bazillion degrees difference.. Or around there in the ballpark someplace..

Even if it is only at idle/lower RPM. Say, under 10 degrees is horrible for engine heat, over 15 is night and day compared!

[Tuske427]

Jet Hot can also do a full ceramic coating, it's their 2500 coating.


This is what we use ... inside & out on the exhaust. Jet-Hot High Performance Coatings is one of the few (if not the only) coating company that can truly coat the inside of the header and/or exhaust tubing. I've been working with them since 1987.

In some of our cars, we run the exhaust through the driveline tunnel to both clean up the airflow under the car & allow us to get the car as low as we want or need it. The exhaust runs past the trans & right next to the driver's right leg & hip. The heat would be bad for both if we didn't control it. We us the 2500° coating inside & out on the full exhaust system, plus coat the trans case & inner driveline tunnel panels. The driver doesn't even notice heat from that area, and the transmissions look great.


:thumbsup:



Cool, thanks, guys. I'll give them a call


I dont know what engine specs you are running, but if you are running very little ignition advance you get ALOT of heat through the exhaust. It depends on camshaft size a bit also. More cam, needs more Advance.

I dont know exactly what the temp differences are, but it feels like, atleast, a Bazillion degrees difference.. Or around there in the ballpark someplace..

Even if it is only at idle/lower RPM. Say, under 10 degrees is horrible for engine heat, over 15 is night and day compared!


This makes two of us, ha ha ha. My car is in a prelim tune now while the engine is breaking in. (prelim tune yielded 553 hp on 91 octane) In another couple hundred miles I will take it back for a final tune on a chassis dyno and they should pick up a few more ponies with it. Right now it is running on the rich side as evidenced by the rich exhaust fumes. They tell me the engine will be closer to 600 hp once it receives a final tune. I'll be there when they do this, so hopefully then I'll have an idea on timing and not sound as clueless on my own engine. This would be great if the final tune would help it not be as hot under the hood.