Is there an OEM CS130 side post alternator

[Chad-1stGen]

So I've been having charging issues with my Vintage Front runner Alternator. This Alternator is made by Tuff Stuff but after trying to contact them for a month and getting no response I figure its time to find an alternative replacement.

The trick is that with the front runner setup I have to run a "side post" alternator. meaning the battery post protrudes out the side instead of the back. Is anyone aware of an OEM application for this style or is this purely an aftermarket invention?

I know I can get another side post from Tuff Stuff or Power Master but wanted to see if I can get a local parts store source for future reference.

Thanks

[QueenCitySpeed]

As far as I know it is custom built for V/A.

[D.Alman]

Looking for same info . Did you ever sort this out?

[dontlifttoshift]

Powermaster or MechMan, as far as I know, there is not a factory application with a sidepost.

The alternator case must be grounded with at least a 10 ga wire.

[KUL FIR CHICK N]

Hi Chad,

The side post CS130 came out of our original SBC Front Runner development program. We needed the post moved to the side in an effort to minimize the overall length of the assembly. We built a mock-up side-post design using an internal bus bar, and then worked with Powermaster to bring the design to production, shaving about 3/4" off the length of the system. Soon after we released that first system, several others in the industry followed suit, using the same components that we had carefully chosen for the original package. Flattering, I guess. Later, TuffStuff came up with a similar side-post design, and we used their units for several years as well, using dual sourcing. Both suppliers were very similar in performance.

In our continuing quest to improve our product, and to stay ahead of the competition, we recently began working with Mechman on a Denso-based alternator that is superior the CS130 design. We tooled a new die-cast-aluminum front housing which makes it compatible with all of our Front Runner systems. The alternator generates 120A at idle and 170A at 3000 alternator RPM. In short, it is a BRUISER, and it looks just as good as it works. It has an internal cooling fan, superior rectifier design, and a hairpin stator, which gives it the highest power density of any alternator available. We also include a 4 GA cable kit with the new systems. These new alternators are shipping now on all new systems. They also are available to upgrade older systems.

That said, the original 140A alternators that we have been shipping since day one have always performed as advertised, and very few customers have vehicles that need more than this level of performance. If you believe the alternator is actually defective, TuffStuff handles the warranty on their parts. When calling, dial 0 and ask for Bud. If the alternator has been tested and is performing properly on the bench, read on.

Before moving to install a larger alternator, first make sure your electrical system load justifies it. It may just be a matter of optimizing your existing installation. As stated above, you need to ensure that the power lead from your alternator to the battery/starter is large enough to handle the load without excessive voltage drop. We recommend at least an 8 GA wire, with a 6 GA being even better. In addition, make sure the alternator body is properly grounded through its mount. If you have an anodized bracket and/or painted block, be sure to clean all mating surfaces down to bare metal. Also, make sure the block is properly grounded to the chassis and, if you want to be extra cautious, run an independent ground (10-6 GA) directly from the alternator body to the chassis. You should check for voltage drop between the alternator and the battery on both the positive and negative sides. You’re looking for less than 0.5 volt drop on either side. There are lots of available YouTube videos that describe how to do the voltage-drop test. Just make sure that you run the test with the maximum load anticipated on the alternator.

After you've performed all of these checks, you should add up your theoretical maximum load, including A/C, fan, lights, stereo, etc., and determine if your maximum load is lower than the alternator's rated capacity. Keep in mind, an alternator’s rated capacity is usually at around 3000 alternator RPM. At idle, the output will be lower. For instance, the CS130-based 140A alternator generates around 90A at idle.

If, after verifying the above, you feel that you still need more capacity than your alternator can supply, please give our sales team a call and we can quote you the upgraded design.

Ryan Zwicker
Director of Engineering, Vintage Air, Inc.

[waynieZ]

Thanks Ryan that's great information for all of us .

[Chad-1stGen]

Thanks for the response Ryan.

I did finally hear back from Tuffstuff and they took great care of me. I was running out of time before my next all day autcross event and only had about 1 week and needed to ship my Alternator back to Tuffstuff, have it tested and possibly rebuilt plus get it back in my hands and they made it happen. Indeed my alternator was defective and they did a full rebuild and it has since worked better than it did new. I used to see a voltage drop at idle which would result in noticeably dimmer headlights and slower blinker speeds etc. That is all gone now and it charges right at 14 volts and has so far survived the heat of multiple track days one with temps nearing 100* outside.

Bud can be tough to get a hold of at Tuff Stuff and isn't much for communication. I hadn't heard from them after shipping the alternator and called to see what they thought and found out it had already been rebuilt and was due to be deliverd within 1 or two days. But he has taken care of me and so I give them a big thumbs up.

[KUL FIR CHICK N]

Good to hear. Glad you're back up and running!

[KUL FIR CHICK N]

http://www.vintageair.com/images/170%20Amp%20Alternator%20with%20Logo%20Blk%20flat. jpg