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View Full Version : What is it that normally goes on the Optispark?


coyote11
06-21-2006, 01:48 PM
is it the Optical part that actually fails out on it? I have mine off and apart and I don't see anything aparently wrong with it, is it just the little optical pickup that goes bad?

On a side note, my old Optispark does not have the two O rings on the shaft, but the new one does, is that typical? its a 1995 with the vaccuum on it.

slow4dr
06-21-2006, 02:41 PM
I was browsing around the LT1 forums the other day and I happened to read about the optical issues. I believe in 96 it was redesigned to vent better and didn't have the problem nearly as much. A lot of the guys are switching over to a individual coil and the LTCC set-up though. http://fullthrottlespeed.com/itemdesc~ic~050LTCC~eq~~Tp~.htm

I am not sure about the o-rings.

rocketman
06-22-2006, 11:04 AM
the old should have o-rings too.I but the new MSD opti on my lt1,love it much better than the gm piece

MEAN LT1
06-22-2006, 01:19 PM
1993-1995 do not have the o ring seals on the shaft part of the opti. 1996-1997 did have them. The optical trigger on the opti is actually the "reliable" part of it. what tends to fail more often then not is the cap and rotor. The people who are running the coil-on-plug setups (LTCC, Delteq) are ditching the rotor part of the opti and keeping the optical trigger. :)

rocketman
06-22-2006, 06:12 PM
I have a 94 z-28 and I am almost sure it has o-ringed shaft,could be wrong thou,I thought about the coil pack set-uup,I wasn't much impressed with it.I love this new MSD opti.I hope the stops the every 40,000 mile opti swaps.

coyote11
06-23-2006, 10:31 AM
Well on my 1995 Optispark there were no O Rings, but I'm not the original owner, on the replacement it does have them, shouldn't hurt to leave them on I would think?

my replacement Opti cam with the casting and a new optical sensor, but no cap and rotor. The cap and rotor look fairly new, I'm going to fire it up without the water pump to see if it was the optical sensor. Hope and pray.

I figure if she doesn't fire I will consider the cap and rotor. Is there anyway to pull a code with a key sequence, or is a code reader needed? The reason I ask is, I picked up this car for cheap because it wouldn't fire up, previous owner had the car tested and told me it was determined to be the distributer. So I'm taking a shot since the Optispark is a common problem and replacing it. I'll take any comments or recommendations.

I've considered cap and rotor, and doing the water pump right away. If I go with a new cap and rotor I have been considering the MSD for the price and responses I've read.

I guess I'll see if it was the Optical sensor tomorrow when I get it back in tomorrow.

rocketman
06-23-2006, 12:01 PM
My advice.always replace the whole opti unit,I have tried cap and rototrs and you usaually end swapping the whole thing in month.I you don't know how the water pump is I would swap it.

When the opti goes bad it takes the spark module and plug wires out to,the plug wires go because the opti make alot of spark fire and pierce the wires with spark over load.

The coil get's weak so I recommend going MSD,same for plug wires if you go 8.5 plug wires they will last for ever.

the lt1 camaro's are great investment's for the money once to get all the little problems they have,and don't listen to guys that say lt1 wont make power.mine make's plenty,with lt1 style heads.

have fun

coyote11
06-23-2006, 04:06 PM
Is it common that the spark module goes bad, pretty much a given? Should I just get a MSD cap and rotor , water pump, and new wires to go with the Opti I've already purchased and call it good? Will I definitely need the spark module? just want to get things ordered and on so I can drive that car.

rocketman
06-23-2006, 06:01 PM
If you have a new opti I would just run it,I would highly recommend new wires even if not msd's.You can try it without the spark control module 1st and see how it run's.

I wouldn't change cap and rotors,it's not worth it.

coyote11
06-24-2006, 02:18 PM
Ok here's the whole story, still need help too:

I bought a 1995 Formula Firebird for the LT1 and 6 speed and the interior, I got it on the cheap because it wouldn't start. The guy I bought it from had the codes pulled and said it was the distributor was bad and was willing to have the guy come and read the codes in front of me. I bought it. The car turns over fast and well, but just wont fire. I bought an optispark from Autozone and put my cap and rotor on it, tried firing it up with the new water pump left off, no go. I pulled plug wire number 1 and cranked car and received no spark, I pulled the coil and cranked, no spark. I could take it to have the codes read, or replace the coil and wires and cap, need your guys suggestions, I'm on a limited budget and want it running as cheap as possible, but want it running moreover. I can buy MSD cap and rotor, and new plug wires, and coil, and (module?) if needed. I need advise. I have access to a code reader, what should I be looking for in codes.

Another concern is the optispark plate (optical) came off the optispark while I had it apart to swap cap and rotor, does it only go on one way?

Anybody have the codes? Thanks.

rocketman
06-24-2006, 10:38 PM
I would just buy a stock replacement cap and rotor,if you are wanting to do it cheap,but it I would try the spark module first.then do plug and wires and work back to the opti.

coyote11
06-26-2006, 11:06 AM
so I thought I could posibly have the rotor on 180 degrees off so that its not on the compression stroke, but figured I'd get coil spark even if that were the case, am I correct in that?

Could a bad cap and rotor cause a no spark situation, or is the ICM very suspect at this point?

so right now I'm going to pick up and Ignition Control Module for the car. If it doesn't spak with that I am considering taking the ICM and Coil down to Autozone to get them tested.

I looked at the Opti plate and it is keyed to go on one way only, so I have no fear it is on correctly.

rocketman
06-26-2006, 06:02 PM
i would try it,i had problems with mine once did the samething

coyote11
06-29-2006, 08:36 AM
So far I have replaced the Optispark, but kept the old cap and rotor. I have no spark at Coil or spark plug. I also bought a new waterpump while all was apart, have no idea how old this one is, and the weep hole looked like it might have suffered a drip or to in the past.

So I pulled the coil and ICM and took them to autozone for testing. They plugged the ICM into a box that ran like 6-8 tests (idiot lights), it plowed right thru them one after another, all green. ICM is good according to them. Then they pull out a multi meter to test the coil in accordance with their book instructions. Testing Ohms, they come up with an odd reading from coil post to plug in part, so I have them pull a new coil off the shelf and sure enough the reading is different from the new coils.

Do coils generally fail on these cars? I thought they were pretty hardy items, and there's not a lot to them to fail. Anyway, I'm gonna hook it up and see if I have fire. God I hope so, I don't want to mess with the PCM, also there was a tad bit of corrosion/dirt on the connectors to the ICM and coil, I will clean that up before resassembly.

I'm going to put new plug wires on while I have it so far apart, where's the best place to get the 8.5mm wires? Summit, or my local autozone/napa/checker.

Any thoughts or advise would be greatly appreciated.

rocketman
06-29-2006, 10:49 AM
Summit or Jegs will be cheaper than a local parts store.I think I would just put it together and see it runs,I have never been big on auto parts store's testing methods

coyote11
06-29-2006, 09:10 PM
I agree, the guy definitely seemed unsure of himself. I tested them side by side myself, and the new coil definitely gives different readings than the old coil, so I'm keeping my fingers crossed that that was it.

coyote11
06-30-2006, 11:21 PM
I replaced the coil and my LT1 fired upt and sounded pretty good. I had a bit of stumble and some tail pipe backfire, but I will put all new wires on it and hopefully drive it tomorrow. Might have just been a $17 coil all along. More to follow.