Another American auto wire ls swap question.

[kevin_l]

Guys, please bear with my ignorance. :headscratch: I am getting close to starting wiring the nova and I am getting a little nervous. This is my first ground up build and pretty much my first wiring job besides stereos and other basic items. I am very comfortable with running wires cleanly, making good connections and soldering. But not familiar wiring a complete car. I've done tons of research and have purchased an American auto wire update kit, and a psi harness. I will be running 2002 ls1/t56, vintage air, dual electric fans, electric fuel pump from tanks inc, and Dakota digital dash. I am concerned with blending the harnesses. To start, What in the AAW engine harness will be required for the ls swap and what can be removed? I know there will be more questions about relay and such at a later date. Thank you for your time.

Here's a screen shot of the diagram for reference.

http://i249.photobucket.com/albums/gg218/klabeaume/klabeaume004/42ebd98b-bcf8-452e-8a54-cb158665abc2_zpsg2fsej9d.png (http://s249.photobucket.com/user/klabeaume/media/klabeaume004/42ebd98b-bcf8-452e-8a54-cb158665abc2_zpsg2fsej9d.png.html)

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Hi Kevin,

Its real simple if you keep everything orderly, pre plan, make and keep good notes.

Drawing a layout will help you with this. I like to go by systems. Each has a separate harness. It makes it easy when you have to troubleshoot it later.

Engine (PSI)
-Fuel delivery system (fuel pump relay, fuel pump controller if applicable)
-AC/Heating (Vintage air)
-Lighting (front and rear)
-Electric windows
-Power locks
-Alarm system


On the engine side of the AAW harness you can remove the:
-alternator/regulator wires 1 18g brown wire
-ignition coil wires 14g pink
-blower circuit wire (remove when using vintage air) 10g orange reroute inside to feed Vintage air blower 10g red.
-tachometer wire 16g white wire (redundant from PSI harness)
-oil wire 18g blue wire OR leave in and use for Vintage air comp wire via safety switch (VHX and PSI use own)
-coolant temp 18g green wire OR leave in and use for Vintage air heater control wire (VHX and PSI use own)

With the PSI harness you can tie into the back of the fuse box using the circuits you just deleted. Keep in mind what you will need while deleting circuits. LS1/T56 DBW 1017 instructions here: http://psiconversion.com/tech_articles/HAR-1017%20LS1%20DBW%20Harness%20Instructions.pdf

-Constant battery 12V
-Ignition feed 12V key on
-Tach feed
-cooling fan 1
-cooling fan 2
-brake signal.... note: I had to run a dual circuit switch due to the alarm system we used. The PCM had a 3 volt feed back and it played havoc with the alarm/push button start system.


The nice thing about the AAW harness is it has an additional connector with all the main feeds to run accessories. I have found that I didn't need it but it was nice to have.

Before you cut into anything. READ the instructions, plan it out and lay the harnesses out to familiar yourself with the two. I go as far as labeling each wire and what what it will tie into on both ends.
Make sure you make a note of these in the instructions. And don't get frustrated if you find yourself doing something over and over. It usually takes me 3-4 mock ups just to get it right.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Forgot the vintage air

1 Red 10g to blower- use heavy orange that you deleted going out. Just come right off of the fuse panel. Back of FAN fuse port. Replace the 30 amp fuse with a 30 amp circuit breaker.
1 Red 18g ignition- relay feed. use the pink with that went to the ignition coil or pink ignition feed circuit.
1 Purple 18g wire - ignition switched 12v AAW has an AC fuse and wire, right under the fan fuse.
1 White 10g from blower to chassis ground
1 white 18g to chassis ground
1 blue 18g wire- to pressure switch to compressor clutch (feed through unused hole in the bulk head.
1 green 18g wire- to heater control valve (feed through unused hole in bulk head)


I like to run circuit breakers on the big circuits. Power windows and fans.

[kevin_l]

Wow Vince, Thank you for the detailed explanation. I do not have the vintage air yet, and have not looked into it's wiring diagram. So you have me pretty lost. However I did order my psi harness with a/c recognition, might have been wasted money. I've been laying everything out on the floor trying to understand.

"On the engine side of the AAW harness you can remove the:
alternator/regulator wires"

Are you saying I can remove the entire red wire going to the starter solenoid, and to the alternator? What will power the AAW fuse block? And the starter is controlled by the ignition and pcm correct?

Then what about the purple wire to the starter solenoid?

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Wow Vince, Thank you for the detailed explanation. I do not have the vintage air yet, and have not looked into it's wiring diagram. So you have me pretty lost. However I did order my psi harness with a/c recognition, might have been wasted money. I've been laying everything out on the floor trying to understand.

"On the engine side of the AAW harness you can remove the:
alternator/regulator wires"

Are you saying I can remove the entire red wire going to the starter solenoid, and to the alternator? What will power the AAW fuse block? And the starter is controlled by the ignition and pcm correct?

Then what about the purple wire to the starter solenoid?

no problem. I have a system that seems to work.

No, not a waste. The AC on will bump the idle?

There is a wire that goes to the charge system for the light. Use everything else as prescribed. Yes, you use the purple wire. The starter and alternator Bat + wires up the same.

You want to leave the Red 10g wire to the battery. Fixed my list here.

On the engine side of the AAW harness you can remove the:
alternator/regulator wires 1 18g brown wire
ignition coil wires 14g pink
blower circuit wire (vintage air) 10g orange ** see note
tachometer wire 16g white wire
oil wire 18g blue wire
coolant temp 18g green wire


vintage air diagram

http://www.vintageair.com/Instructions2013/901156.pdf

page 19 shows wire colors and hook ups.

blower circuit wire (vintage air) 10g orange On this Orange 10g, I like to delete the engine side, pull it out of the firewall side of the bulk head, put a single GM (spare connectors and terminals from the AAW kit) and run it to the 10g Red to the Vintage air blower motor. I replace the 30amp fuse with a 30 amp ATO thermal relay. Remove the vintage air breaker from the system.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

I would recommend doing the PSI engine harness first. Lay it out. Plug everything in, figure out routing, controller mounting, grounds, fuse relay panel mounting and go from there. It maybe much more clear to you what wires you need and where they are going to come from.

Another tip, whe you are routing wiring, use masking tape to hold the wires together till you do the final loom. 5" strip with one end taped to itself (sticky to sticky) so you can open it up to add wire and don't cut anything till you are certain its right.

[Che70velle]

Vince, this is a great write up.

[kevin_l]

Vince, this is a great write up.

Yes! I never imagined such a great answer and willingness to help. Couldn't have asked for more, Vince you are a true asset to keep this site and hobby friendly and helpful. Thanks again for your write up. It will certainly get me headed in the right direction and I will try and take photos to go with your description as to help the next guy too. :computer:

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Yes! I never imagined such a great answer and willingness to help. Couldn't have asked for more, Vince you are a true asset to keep this site and hobby friendly and helpful. Thanks again for your write up. It will certainly get me headed in the right direction and I will try and take photos to go with your description as to help the next guy too. :computer:

thanks guys, Not a problem. I know how frustrating and intimidating it can be so I like to help where I can.


Checks in the mail right? :warning: :lmao:


Oh, and on the AAW harness. The purple start wire has to go through a neutral safety switch or jumper-ed. Car will not crank otherwise.

[kevin_l]

thanks guys, Not a problem. I know how frustrating and intimidating it can be so I like to help where I can.


Checks in the mail right? :warning: :lmao:


Oh, and on the AAW harness. The purple start wire has to go through a neutral safety switch or jumper-ed. Car will not crank otherwise.


Sure check is in the mail, but it's for too much so when you get it wire me the difference, ok?? :innocent:

I got a clutch switch, should that work to run the purple wire through so the motor will only crank with the clutch pedal pushed in?

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Sure check is in the mail, but it's for too much so when you get it wire me the difference, ok?? :innocent:

I got a clutch switch, should that work to run the purple wire through so the motor will only crank with the clutch pedal pushed in?

perfect!

I like to hide a high amp switch in there somewhere for anti theft.

[kevin_l]

OK, started pulling out some wire tonight. I removed the wires you said including the pink coil wire but noticed on the schematic the yellow starter solenoid wire jumpers off the pink wire that is now removed.

Is this yellow starter solenoid wire needed anymore? And what about the VSS ground, VSS Signal and tan brake warning switch?

Then, Can I remove these:

ignition coil wires 14g pink ( goes to ignition and fuel block on dash side)
tachometer wire 16g white wire
oil wire 18g blue wire
coolant temp 18g green wire

from the dash side of the bulk head?

[Vince@Meanstreets]

OK, started pulling out some wire tonight. I removed the wires you said including the pink coil wire but noticed on the schematic the yellow starter solenoid wire jumpers off the pink wire that is now removed.

Is this yellow starter solenoid wire needed anymore? And what about the VSS ground, VSS Signal and tan brake warning switch?

Then, Can I remove these:

ignition coil wires 14g pink ( goes to ignition and fuel block on dash side)
tachometer wire 16g white wire
oil wire 18g blue wire
coolant temp 18g green wire

from the dash side of the bulk head?

The Yellow wire was the resistor bypass wire that provided the igniton coil 12 volts during crank. Not needed with the LS swap.

The VSS wiring (2- purple and yellow twisted) hooks to your T-56 speed sensor directly to the VHX box. SPD- and SPD SND
Page 8 instructions http://www.dakotadigital.com/pdf/vhx.pdf


Note: For 2-wire speed sensors such as a cable driven pulse generator, the polarity of the wires
does not matter. Connect one wire to the SPD – (Ground) and the other to the SPD SND
terminal. The speed sensor ground wire should be brought back to the control box to ensure a
proper signal is received. Twisting the ground and signal wires around each other provides an
additional level of interference protection. The speed signal wire should not be routed alongside
tach, ignition, or other high current or high voltage wires.

Tan brake warning, you can hook that to your prop valve or distribution box. Have no idea what you are running.


ignition coil wires 14g pink ( goes to ignition and fuel block on dash side) Yes
tachometer wire 16g white wire Yes, tach signal comes off of the PSI harness to VHX now.
oil wire 18g blue wire Extend and use for your AC compressor feed via trinary
coolant temp 18g green wire Extend and use for your heater control valve.

from the dash side of the bulk head? You can if you like. Use them for interior circuits.

[kevin_l]

My psi harness has it's own VSS but you're saying I need the one in the AAW harness too? Even if I plan on running the dakota digital obd II interface?

[130fe]

Kevin, I have a similiar wiring setup (harness and gauges). The DD OBD2 box is great! less wiring to worry about. I ended up repurposing a lot of the wires for other purposes. This will give you an idea. If you have any questions, please let me know.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

My psi harness has it's own VSS but you're saying I need the one in the AAW harness too? Even if I plan on running the dakota digital obd II interface?

Cool, I wasn't sure since you have a T-56.

[130fe]

Kevin, if you are planning on using the DD OBD2 module, you will be able to pull your TACH, VSS and water temp through the OBD2 connector. You can also read the perimeters that the PCM is reading like IAT and other things (like you can read on a scanner). I bought a OBD2 Y cable and use one end for the DD stuff and the other if I ever want to hook up a scanner up.

I used a GMPP LS3 harness and can get my oil pressure off of the PCM (but through a separate PCM connector (not the OBD2 connector). If has a VSS wires (purple and yellow) that connects to the trans but that is how the PCM knows the VSS. Most of the single VSS wires are for speedos or cruise (output signal).

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Kevin, I have a similiar wiring setup (harness and gauges). The DD OBD2 box is great! less wiring to worry about. I ended up repurposing a lot of the wires for other purposes. This will give you an idea. If you have any questions, please let me know.


It looks so clean when you can get everything through the bulk head. Nice work Chris.

[kevin_l]

It looks so clean when you can get everything through the bulk head. Nice work Chris.

That is my goal too, thanks for all the help Vince and Chris. I need to order my vintage air before I mount my PCM and cut a hole in the firewall for the engine harness. Not sure what available space will be left under there.

[glassman]

Man did i miss this. i have an 04 LS1-t-56 (with Vintage air, Dakota Digital and AAW lamp harness) with a custom made harness (CJsGarage). Works great but some stuff is getting moved around and i am going to redo the under dash wiring (sign of the cross here)....

[Swain]

AWESOME WRITE UP..

Will be printing this out....

[kevin_l]

Still working through the list of things to do. Does the alternator wire to the starter need to be fused? And I am wanting to test fire the car very soon to verify a few things. Can I simply toggle the ignition on the psi harness and use a momentary push button for the starter solenoid?