Radiator hose HELP please!

[69hugger]

I am down to the last piece of putting my car back on the road. I am stopped dead by the upper radiator hose.
The one that was on the car fit perfectly, but like a dumb-ass, I cut it off because it had the Gates shrink clamps, and the hoses had welded themselves to the fittings. I seriously could not get them off no matter what I tried. Plus, I thought after 10 years, I would replace them anyhow.
I have ordered 5 different hoses, and non will fit. I have tried Gates, Dayco, & NAPA brands, and even Ecklers for a "restoration correct" one. I have tried types for a BBC both with & w/o A/C.
None will fit. They are either too short or the angles are just way wrong for my thermostat housing (which I really want to keep).
I have a 31" wide Be-Cool radiator, (just replaced a 29" Be-Cool), and a very unique thermostat housing. It is not straight, nor angled as much as a stock BBC outlet.
The old hose fit both the old & new radiators perfectly, but of course, I can't re-use it.
I have also been to 3 different parts stores that let me browse their hose selection. What I have found it they stock mostly hoses for newer cars (go figure), and they are either A.) smaller diameter B.) have seriously wild bends, C.) have branches in them.
As such, I can't find a hose I can cut to use what I need.
For reference, this is what my old one looked like.

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/bsternz06/DSCN4267_1.jpg

As you can see, it fit like a glove.
I don't want to use a stainless bend-your-own type, or have a custom hard hose made & use couplers on both ends (if I can help it). I really want another hose just like my old one. And of course, there are no numbers left on it after all these years... we looked VERY carefully. My fear is because of parts consolidations, my hose doesn't exist any more.
I am hoping one of the very experienced members here has a great idea or some knowledge of a hose for a different application they have used with success. From the reinforcement thread pattern on the surface of the old hose, it looks like it is a Gates, as it matches the pattern of the new Gates models I got.

Thanks for any help!!



Bill

[IMPALA MAN]

would this help? I know you said you wanted to keep your housing but......it's worth a look. It would give you some versatility.
http://www.afcodynapro.com/store?search_api_views_fulltext=Thermostat+housing

[69hugger]

I really hate to use a different housing. Mine current one blends in so well with my engine, and looks like a custom piece.
I don't think it will make the difference anyway, but will certainly keep it in mind.
Thanks for the suggestion!


Bill

[Build-It-Break-it]

What I've done in the past is take a wire coat hanger or tig rod and bent it to the shape of the hose I needed. Then measure the radiator neck and thermostat neck for correct openings. Take the coat hanger to the auto parts store and find the correct hose.

They'll usually let you go back there and search. Once you find the hose keep the wrapper on file for next time. I've always found the hose I was looking for.

Also a side note, some of the exact same auto parts stores carry more selection then others so find the bigger busier stores and go there. Hope you find it.

[SlowProgress]

I had a similar problem with my big block 67. This is a horrible photo but the idea is to fabricate a metal tube and then use some nice couplings at the engine and radiator (I never bought the nice couplings with the old engine). If you brush it with some Scotchbrite it will match your cover and air cleaner. This also protects that long hose from getting into the alternator with the LH mount that you have. Make sure to roll some beads at the ends so the clamps don't blow off. Lots of great examples on the net that look really good !

http://i.imgur.com/xytarSZl.jpg

[TheJDMan]

Here is an early version of what I did for the upper rad hose. I have since found silicone 90's and eliminated the tubes.

http://hayes-ent.com/steve/images/engine%20015.jpg

[69hugger]

Thanks guys! I finally found this really long hose with multiple bends in the back of an O'Reilly store. The part I needed was hiding in the middle. Not exactly perfect, but a 9 on a 10 scale. I have no idea what that monster is supposed to fit. I guess I will look it up to satisfy my curiosity.

My old one was a better fit, but this will (have to) do, at least for now.

I may opt for something different down the road. Maybe the aluminum one.... we'll see.

Thanks again for the ideas.
Bill

[Rick D]

Hey Bill, just thinking here but did you try calling DSE? I know they set it up originally so maybe they know what they used back then, or have it on file as to what they used, might be worth the call?

[Schwartz Perf]

Post a pic installed, and give a part number! :)

-Dale

[69hugger]

Good idea, Dale.
I used a Gates 22043. Evidently for a '94-'02 Dodge P/U of all things.

Here's how it turned out...

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/bsternz06/IMG_1952.jpg

http://i1113.photobucket.com/albums/k513/bsternz06/IMG_1953.jpg

Not perfect, but not too bad.

Thanks again to all that helped!

Bill

[Vegas69]

I see that the temp sensor is in the front of the intake. I found that the bypass hose from the water pump to the intake was crucial on my big block. Without the bypass, the pump would aerate with the t stat closed and cause an air pocket. That resulted in many messes out the overflow until I realized why GM had designed it that way.

[69hugger]

Thanks for the input, Todd.
As part of the Vintage Air Frontrunner system, I have a Stewart water pump, which has no provision for a bypass hose. The V/A instructions don't call for a bypass hose....matter of fact, I don't think one would fit any more.
Although there are bypass holes drilled in the t-stat.
Been this way since I bought it & seems to work...
Thanks again for the suggestion!

Bill

[Vegas69]

That's all that matters...

[Hydratech®]

I have been down this road and report my findings that drilling a .125" to .164" hole anywhere into the main flat outer body of the thermostat will allow for a coolant flow / temp signal to the T-stat at all times to prevent hassles of the discussed nature. I actually do this to everything I work with as of the last 30 years, as while it may delay a full warm up for about a negligible minute or two, this mod reaps vast rewards in so many other directions it is well worth the troubles (despite the EPA wanting to get everything warmed up as quickly as possible for emissions control reasons). Some of you may have seen this in some newer late model t-stats (little pintel valve or notched valve seat surface).

* Full time coolant actual temp signal to the T stat at all times (MUCH more stable overall coolant temps) (no temp gauge crazy wandering around)
* Slightly delayed warm up, which helps dramatically with dissimilar metals (aluminum versus cast iron)(expansion and contraction can "itch" head gaskets into trouble)
* Helps "burp" cooling systems ASAP during service (priceless)
* Will not run too cold during severe cold weather circumstances
* Will still provide stringent emission testing results where needed (after thorough warm up)
* So simple, yet so elegant (amazing what a little drilled hole can do in the right place)

Since while we're talking about cooling systems, how many of you have blown heater cores during high RPM blasts? I have popped quite a few, and figured I may as well put this in here too in the hopes that it can help somebody somewhere.

So what's the deal? Imagine most of us thinking rad cap pressures.... Block pressures can be in excess of 75+ PSI at times due to water pump output pressures. I'm sure some of you have seen the bizarre late model T-stats that look like sci-fi space ships? An extra spring with an extra disc thingy?

Those bizarre late model T-stats have excess block pressure blow off valves built into them, which is what that extra springy disc thing is. That's designed to prevent excessive block pressures building up during high RPM blasts when the T-stat isn't open. Haha, like when the kids are late for school OR when you are late for work and the machine isn't fully warmed up yet (DOH!)...

Sooooo, if you keep popping heater cores, what you need to do is to install a restrictor into the feed / outlet going into the heater core of about a 1/4" or so. Take your pipe nipple coming out of the intake / water pump / whatever feeds the heater core inlet and modify it as needed with a restrictor that limits the flow to a 1/4" or so orifice size of flow. This will in some cases actually help produce better heat through the climate control system by slowing down the flow to the heater core (contrary to what you may initially think), but more importantly will handle "ballooning" of the heater core during high RPM blasts.

Just my .02 that may help someone somewhere, right?

FYI / BTW - I was the previous owner of Paul's Performance Shop, and also Unlimited Racing in Detroit, before many of you came to know me as "Hydratech", veteran ASE Master Tech blah blah blah... so I know my way around the tool box and just can't leave these types of discussions alone at times.

:happy23: