69 Camaro - JKnight

[JKnight]

Intro - I've been around the scene a long time but have never really shared much about my project. There's a lot of reasons for that. One, I don't have a lot of great parts or skilled work to show off. Two, getting through my twenties and the great life events that go with it have often put a stranglehold on the budget. Lastly, the work I have done since acquiring the car in high school (1999) has been mostly bolt on/parts replacement type work.

History - the car was restored and heavily modified in 1983. All of the paint and body is as it was completed at that time. Here's a pic of the prior owner with it at the Car craft nationals around that time, I believe.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image-1.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image-1.jpg.html)

Here's one from high school.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/69Camaro.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/69Camaro.jpg.html)

Current status- The car is 97% assembled and roadworthy, but that 3% is a real issue. The body has issues, no way else to describe it. I'll get into the details of that later. My guess is that every piece of sheet metal from the doors back will need to be replaced at some point.

The goal - I'd like to get the car roadworthy and use it on the street on nice days. Auto crossing is a possibility but not a huge priority.

Here's some recent (and some not so recent)pictures. These were before I lowered the rear with new springs and added the watts link:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/IMG00082-20090909-1909.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/IMG00082-20090909-1909.jpg.html)
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/JeffscarSept07.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/JeffscarSept07.jpg.html)
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/FlagstaffCarShowSept20072.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/FlagstaffCarShowSept20072.jpg.html)
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_4.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_4.jpg.html)

[JKnight]

Ever since I've owned the car, it's had a recurring theme of electrical issues, mostly confined to the charging and ignition systems. As a result, one of my latest projects was to rewire the car from the firewall forward. I went with some components from MAD electrical as it would allow me to leave everything from the firewall back in tact. The way I look at it is I'll give this a shot and if I still have issues, everything will come out and replaced with an AAW classic update.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_9.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_9.jpg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_5.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_5.jpg.html)

[JKnight]

Let me start off by saying, I'm open to any and all feedback or advice. I'm a finance guy and fully understand that, like Greg, I have tools and one day hope to learn how to use them. So here's my current dilemma...the trunk floor is totally shot. This includes the mounts for the tank straps and the area where the battery currently resides.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_6.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_6.jpg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_3.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_3.jpg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpg.html)

So, without revealing my own thoughts on the issue, what do you guys think should be the next corse of action based on what you can see here?

[JKnight]

I acquired two new frame rails as the originals both have some rust issues or extra holes and it's apparent the driver side rail received some "adjustment" at some point. I've been putting together a project plan and will post it soon to get feedback and so it can serve as a table of contents for this phase of the build.

I also have new tailpan supports and mini tubs since I'd probably better do that while I'm in there.

[JKnight]

I'm lined up to take my Sabbatical from work for the entire month of April 2016. The plan is to spend the time getting the car out of the "jackstand class" and driving again.

Biggest item on the list, and where I need the most advice, is replacing the frame rails and trunk pan. From my Lat-G crew, I'd love to hear any advice on the best way to go about accomplishing these tasks. I bought a good set of spot weld cutters and I'm ready to tear into it, but any tips or even detailed instructions would be welcome!

[Spiffav8]

Jeff I have no advice to give on how to accomplish this, but it's one of those things that is highly rewarding when the job is completed. Post tons of pictures and ask plenty of questions. You know the crew will jump in and offer input.

Have Fun!! :weld:

[djorgensen3]

Wow. I have seen you driving around my neighborhood in that car. I have actually seen you and car on my street...lol. It certainly does sound good. I wish I had some advice for you but I'm sure there is a ton of people with advice here for you. Good luck with it. I hope to see more of it.

[JKnight]

Jeff I have no advice to give on how to accomplish this, but it's one of those things that is highly rewarding when the job is completed. Post tons of pictures and ask plenty of questions. You know the crew will jump in and offer input.

Have Fun!! :weld:

Thanks Curtis. I don't really know what I'm doing but I don't mind too much. I haven't known anything going into any other project I've done with this car in the last 15 years so why should this be any different? I'll definitely be taking pictures and posting as I go along.

I guess where I'm a little hung up is the big picture order of operations.

Right now I'm thinking:
Disassembly; Cut out trunk pan; Install minitubs, Install trunk pan (don't weld to old rails); R&R Drivers Rail, R&R Passenger Rail, reassembly.

I figured it's probably a good idea to never have both rails out of the car at once.

[JKnight]

Wow. I have seen you driving around my neighborhood in that car. I have actually seen you and car on my street...lol. It certainly does sound good. I wish I had some advice for you but I'm sure there is a ton of people with advice here for you. Good luck with it. I hope to see more of it.

Really? Must have been a while ago. Poor car hasn't run in over 5 years. We bought and moved into our house in 2011 and everything car related was out-prioritized by house stuff.

[Flash68]

The plan is to spend the time getting the car out of the "jackstand class" and driving again.



Many have tried... many have filed! LOL

Seriously, good luck with it and post it all up!

:cheers:

[dhutton]

Have you considered an Art Morrison rear clip? It might be easier to install with the new trunk floor and mini tubs.

Don

[JKnight]

Hey Don. I definitely considered it. Needing to remove the rails made it a logical option. However, it's more coin than I need to spend given my intended usage of the car. I think I've concluded that I'll never be the guy traveling to road course and USCA events regularly. Plus, when I do make it out, I won't be the guy who gives a **** about competing near the top. Not gonna happen.

[JKnight]

Many have tried... many have filed! LOL

Seriously, good luck with it and post it all up!

:cheers:

Yeah, I may join the club. 4 weeks can go by pretty fast when you're as slow at working on cars as I am.

[WSSix]

No idea how I missed this post originally. I love the tilt front end. I can't help with the work you're planning other than to say plan ahead and to wish you good luck.

[djorgensen3]

Really? Must have been a while ago. Poor car hasn't run in over 5 years. We bought and moved into our house in 2011 and everything car related was out-prioritized by house stuff.

If thats the case, there is one running around that looks like it...lol. Although I haven't seen it in awhile. Are you in the NW Peoria/Phoenix area?.

[JKnight]

If thats the case, there is one running around that looks like it...lol. Although I haven't seen it in awhile. Are you in the NW Peoria/Phoenix area?.

Yes indeed. Although I prefer to call it the "upper west side", lol...

[JKnight]

No idea how I missed this post originally. I love the tilt front end. I can't help with the work you're planning other than to say plan ahead and to wish you good luck.

Thanks Trey. The front end is a love-hate kinda thing. It saves a ton of weight over the front end, right where it helps most, and makes working on anything forward of the doors super easy. But...the grille opening is the incorrect size for factory parts, necessitating something custom for the grille and headlight mounting. The 80's-rific L88 hood scoop isn't exactly the hip look these days, but it's not horrible enough to make me want to get out the cutoff wheel and fiberglass to replace it with a smaller cowl scoop.

[minendrews68]

There's nothing wrong with the L-88 hood!! I like it.

[JKnight]

I'm refining my project plan as much as possible and ran into a packaging challenge. I'm trying to figure out how to mount the shocks inboard of the frame rails for tire clearance. But, the Fays2 watts link frame interferes with mounting shocks (using DSE lower plates) behind the axle. Upper mounts would be an issue as well.

Are there any inherent problems created by mounting both shocks in front of the axle?

[JKnight]

I'm working on some of the little issues now so that when April comes I can be focused on a smaller list of tasks. I decided I would tackle the drivers' door panel today. Around 2011 I installed one of the reproduction deluxe door panels I had acquired on eBay in 2003 for about $200. Subsequent I ssues encountered with this panel include 1) the door never shut properly, as if the panel was misaligned, and 2) window crank wouldn't reach the splines on the regulator.

So, first order of business, make absolute sure I have deluxe regulators. Based on the 1 3/16" length and 4 markers on the stub, I confirmed they are deluxe regulators. Whew...
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image.jpeg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_9.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_9.jpeg.html)
Here you can see the thickness difference between the repro and original (I removed the vinyl in hopes of re-covering the originals,but the foam was probably too damaged to look smooth under new vinyl, thus the repro install)

Original
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_1.jpeg.html)

Repro
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_2.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_2.jpeg.html)

[JKnight]

As with most things on this car, when I look at one thing I find at least 3 more issues. This was the case today. I had always known there were lots of clunks and rattles when driving, but chalked it up to the 'character' of an old car.

Rattle source #1: 2nd gen side mirror adjuster just laying in the door.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_3.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_3.jpeg.html)

Rattle source #2: rear regulator bolt hole in door frame had been mangled at some point, so the bolt wasn't actually clamping anything, allowing this leg of the regulator to swing free and bang about.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_4.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_4.jpeg.html)

Rattle #3: petrified piece of tape stuck to...a mirror mount backing plate? Not sure...guessing they taped it inside the door for safe keeping, but it had come loose decades ago most likely.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_5.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_5.jpeg.html)

[JKnight]

I resolved the mirror adjuster issue, at least temporarily, by wrapping it up in foam and securing it out of the way.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_8.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_8.jpeg.html)

The door frame issue was resolved with a little cleaning, welding (I'm new to welding and desperately need the practice so I chose not to just use a bigger washer) and grinding.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_6.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_6.jpeg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_7.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_7.jpeg.html)

So there, that's a couple minor issues I don't have to deal with later. I need to get new weatherstrip for the door before I try to re-install the panel. The original ones are crumbling so no point in trying to fit the panel with rubber that won't be used in final assembly.

[trevor572]

Hi, glad to see you're making progress. I found a set of pliers rattling around inside my drivers side door, gee they've come in handy.😊 cheers trevor.

[JKnight]

Haha, pliers, brilliant!

When I installed the DSE wiper motor I found they had left the transmission arms laying in the cowl area when they deleted (aka. Removed the wiper arms) the wipers and ditched the OE motor. What a racket those made over every bump!

I will say, it made reassembly of the wiper system a snap though!

[Spiffav8]

Four improvements already! Well played!

:captain:

[JKnight]

Not much of an update, but I will add that I've done a little shopping in anticipation of the 'April Overhaul'. I've never been able to get the SPC uppers adjusted for proper alignment specs (caster mainly) without compromising safety by having too little arm material inside the adjuster sleeve. Plus, I had reused the factory lowers with fresh ball joints and bushings. Speedtech ran a Christmas sale so I jumped on it and have new tubular uppers and lowers that should complement my AFX spindles nicely.

While at Barrett Jackson a few weeks ago, I cruised through the Ridetech booth and decided while I have the front end apart I'd might as well put some good shocks in it. I've driven a whopping 200 miles on the 2007 revisions to the suspension but that was enough to reveal the Edelbrock shocks were junk. So the Ridetech HQ single adjustables will remedy that shortcoming! I'm really looking forward to putting the front together the way it should have been when I went through it years ago.

[JKnight]

I may have made progress on the "thick" repro door panel saga by locating some extensions for the crank stud that are splined and retained with a set screw. This definitely won't help the door-closing issues created by the extra girth of these panels but I'm hoping that will be remedied through adjustment (option A) or by undoing some staples and shaving down the foam on the leading and trailing edges (option B)

[Spiffav8]

Sounds like you are headed in the right direction. I like the sound of this "April Overhaulin".

:cheers:

[JKnight]

A couple more questions regarding my overall plan:

1) When installing DSE tubs, is it easier at all/helpful to do when the dropped portion of the trunk pan is removed?

2) Can I do the tubs now and still run normal leaf springs/hangers/gas tank, in anticipation of actually filling the tubs with tires and a 4-link in the future?

If the answer to number one is no, that may eliminate the need for worrying about question two.

[JKnight]

We're fast approaching the April Overhaulin. Been ordering parts and knocking out some easy stuff to free up time for the items where I'm not as confident.

Out with the old:
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_14.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_14.jpeg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_13.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_13.jpeg.html)

In with the new:

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_15.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_15.jpeg.html)
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_11.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_11.jpeg.html)
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_12.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_12.jpeg.html)

[JKnight]

Spent last week doing house projects so I can dedicate the rest of the month to the Camaro. My 6.0L diesel F350 consumed my budget for gauges and rear shocks so the goal of driving out of the garage on April 30th will have to be missed. But, progress can still be made.

Passenger side upper, lower and shock replacement is complete.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_16.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_16.jpeg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_17.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_17.jpeg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_20.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_20.jpeg.html)

Now I can update the alignment and close the book on the front end.

[JKnight]

Finalized a small task that I've been sitting on for years. Since I'm not doing a hydraulic throwout bearing I still have the factory mech linkage. I wanted to minimize the slop and add adjustability so I made some new rods with right and left hand threaded rods using chromoly tube.

It was a real chore tracking down a threaded tube nut/bung/adapter with the right dimensions for the tube and threads for the factory rod that pushes on the clutch arm. Ended up finding it as a mounting bung for custom motorcycle tanks, who'd a thunk it?

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_23.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_23.jpeg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_24.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_24.jpeg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_25.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_25.jpeg.html)

[19,69camaro]

Any feedback on how this works? I would think that since it is in single sheer the connecting bolt will wiggle around on you unless you weld in on like a stud. I'm sure if this doesn't work you could always find a clevis that would fit the threaded bungs

[JKnight]

From what I can tell it's mostly in compression, as long as the alignment from the z-bar to clutch fork is good. The heim is thinner than where the factory rod interfaced with the z-bar, so this allows a straight shot to the fork with no header interference. This definitely takes a small mount of slop out of the linkage system.

Oh, and not pictured are jam nuts below all of the heim joints. I didn't have them at the time that pic was taken.

[Panteracer]

I did something similar to my 70 bird
but the ends are bolted to a bracket they
have... the original ends were so worn they
were no longer round.. it made the clutch action
so much better

Bob

[JKnight]

A long-running dilemma for me has been what to do for mounting the rear shocks, as packaging issues with the Fays2 watts link have been plaguing my attempts to mount the shocks inboard of the frame rails.. The picture below illustrates the current issue with drivers side mount plates.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_26.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_26.jpeg.html)

As far as I can tell, I have a few options, would love to get feedback from the group on this:

A) Find spring plates from someone other than DSE that will not have the same interference issue. (Downside: no fun, added cost, delays due to shopping and shipping)

B) Modify the DSE plate to clear the gusset on the Fays2 plate. (Downside: removes material from the DSE plate just above the ear for the shock, though it seems sturdy enough to handle this modification)
Red line is roughly where I'd cut, blue line is possible location for a gusset if necessary.
http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_27.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_27.jpeg.html)

C) same as option B but weld the two plates together to make a single unit and regain some strength removed by 'clearancing' the DSE plate. (Downside: end result is a Franken-plate, but I suppose that's fitting for this car)

[JKnight]

Ended up going with option D, lol. Ran across some Ridetech coilover brackets in the for sale forum and figured they'd work nicely. Had to add a hole for the leaf spring bolt to protrude. Nice thing is they'll allow me to use the 14" shocks I already have. Waiting on the billet lower mount and I'll have this issue wrapped up.

I also got the Hyperco springs solid mounted as Ridetech does with them in their StreetGrip setup. A .5" (top) and .25" (bottom) aluminum lowering block Serve to take up the added depth of the multi-leaf mounts and allow a good grip/crush on the composite spring.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_28.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_28.jpeg.html)

[JKnight]

The upper shock mount will consist of a piece of 1.5" OD .188 wall DOM that spans between the forward mount plates of the chassis-mounted watts frame. The actual mounts are Ridetech builder pieces that should interface hook up with the stud mount shocks.

I'll have to angle the shocks a bit to clear the leafs, but should be able to stay under 25 degrees.

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_29.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_29.jpeg.html)

http://www.ridetech.com/store/upper-airbar-bridge-mount.html

[JKnight]

While I'm waiting for the brackets I got moving on the trunk pan replacement. Started clearing away years of grime and paint with a flap wheel to make sure I had good metal to weld the new pan. As expected, the passenger rear corner is a mess. Will have to redo the majority of the metal in that corner, and the tail support. Drilling spot welds sucks...

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_30.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_30.jpeg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_31.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_31.jpeg.html)

http://i148.photobucket.com/albums/s8/jknight16/Mobile%20Uploads/image_32.jpeg (http://s148.photobucket.com/user/jknight16/media/Mobile%20Uploads/image_32.jpeg.html)

[JKnight]

Keep in mind, this is the first thing I've ever done that even resembles fabrication or metal repair, so any tips or 'holy**** you're doing it wrong' warnings are welcome.

[JKnight]

Does anybody have any favorite technique for removing the trunk pan sheet metal from the top of the frame rails? Can't help but think I'm missing a tool that would make it easier...air chisel?

[glassman]

I'm sure one of the body guys will chime in. I used a spot weld removal tool, it goes into your drill and removes one layer of the sheet metal.

[raustinss]

at the risk of em-bare-assing myself....spot weld cutter ? with a small hand chisel or dial an air chisel down because they can eat sheet metal when you dont want them to

[JKnight]

I did get a rotobroach spot weld cutter set. Truth be told,it isn't like cutting butter, lol. Plus, it seems as if the weld locations are apparent from the frame rail side, which would mean drilling holes in the rails to free up the pan. If that's the only option, ok, I'll deal with extricating the pan from the top via grinders and cutting wheels, it's just a bunch of work!!

I think I need a corded drill, wearing out lithium batteries like crazy on the spotweld cutting with the cordless.

[JKnight]

at the risk of em-bare-assing myself....spot weld cutter ? with a small hand chisel or dial an air chisel down because they can eat sheet metal when you dont want them to

Don't worry, everything about this thread puts me at risk of being embarrassed compared to all the great pro builds and guys with knowledge. But I'm still going for it!!

[JKnight]

Gents, hoping for some help thinking through a rear suspension packaging issue. The passenger side watts link mount is leaving very little room for the shock on that side. Attaching pictures below for reference.

The upper shock mount has not been built, so I have some flexibility there. Watts link pars are equal length and offsetting 10 degree angle. Shock is at 20 degree angle.

Hoping to keep the watts link, but I’m struggling here…

[JB400]

Staggered shocks an option? Move one side in front of the axle

[JKnight]

Potentially…might make the upper mount situation tricky.

Staring at the picture more, I could drop the watts cradle a bit, maybe an inch before it’s not grabbing enough of the frame rails…

[JKnight]

I’ve been remiss in doing updates, which is actually a positive because it means that work is getting done! I’ve made progress in a number of areas that I’ll summarize below.

Rear Suspension – The solution for the shock/watts bars packaging issue was actually relatively simple. Fays2 is now shipping their kits for 1st gen Camaros with 2 of the axle tube clamp-style mounts for the watt’s bars. Alternatively, if you already have an old kit like I do, they will also sell you an additional mount to replace your existing leaf pad mount. Being able to bring the driver’s side mount even an inch towards the center will allow me to move the pass side clamp the same amount and free up more space for the pass side shock. Switching to Ridetech shocks (to match the front) with a smaller diameter shock body helped out with clearance as well.

The upper shock mount fabrication is done. I’m new to welding, as you’ll no doubt be able to tell, but I think it will be strong enough for a non-coilover application

Deluxe Door Panels – The saga of Jeff’s dang door panel is finally over. Al Knoch panels fit much better than the garbage aftermarket replacements I had. There is still excessive tightness between the quarter windlace material and the new door seals, but I’m hoping that will reduce as the rubber breaks in a bit.

Holley Terminator X Max Stealth – ECU location is planned and mount is fabricated. Since this car will likely remain A/C-less (on account of not having wheel wells upon which to rest the A/C lines), I can utilize some of the space that others normally could not. This quick bracket topped with some PVC hobby board will provide a nice flat surface for the ECU and Holley BIM module for the HDX gauges.

Battery Mount – Given my plans to add fuel injection, Vaporworx, Hyperspark ignition, etc., all of which call for power directly from the battery, I decided to go the Optima battery route. I’m hopeful I can make it live through prodigious use of an Optima battery tender. Built another rudimentary bracket/platform to mount the battery that doubles as a way to hold the enclosure for the Vaporworx controller. Once all the wiring is done, I’ll mount it through the trunk floor using bolts or weld it in, not sure yet but I built it to accommodate either option.

Next up on the ever-growing punch list: AAW harness, new fuel line, Baer Remaster install + new front lines, weld-in new trunk floor, gas tank mounts, install gas tank, swap rear housing for Miller Built 9”, then all the rest of the Holley EFI install.

[JKnight]

Regarding the Holley Terminator X Max Stealth - I'm laying out the harnesses, generally trying to have a good plan before I really dive in. The X Max will do transmission control, but I went with it (at Andrew B's recommendation) to have the ability to reuse the ECU and still have DBW in the future if needed (LS Swap) even though I'm running a manual trans.

Question: Can I just strip out the VSS from the transmission harness (including de-pinning everything else (OSS, Turbine Speed and all Loose wires) from the J4 connector at the ECU? Is there anything else that the ECU needs, even with a manual trans, that I need to leave?

[WSSix]

Glad to see progress being made!

[JKnight]

Progress continues…trunk pan is in, Restomod tank and Vaporworx controller are done, IIMuch vent is in and ready, fuel lines are plumbed, AAW harness is going in now, so its wires everywhere and lots of little updates along the way. Need to re-learn how to do pictures, will work on that too ;)

[JKnight]

Progress has been steady over the past year. Jumping a bit forward to current, I actually drove the car to the gas station this weekend. The update I’ll try to make today though is on a part of the car that has no impact on its drivability, but is one of the most overdue and visually impactful improvements that I could make.

First, I have to set the stage that this car’s path back to a reliable, somewhat modernized state of existence is rife with compromises, most of which are necessitated by the early 80’s tilt front-end and the rear fender flares from the same era. I bought the car in 1998 as a teenager and the fact the car had no grille was of little consequence. It bugged me, but not enough to do anything about it.That has changed, and it needed to be addressed. Funny thing though, whoever molded this front clip had zero intention of someone ever being to use a factory front grille insert or headlight buckets. My guess is it was built for rectangle headlights and a billet grille, remember…1983…

So here we go…I sliced the important bits out of a repop 69 grille, trimmed off most of the now superfluous brackets from the buckets and set about righting a 40 year old “wrong”. Enough words, here’s the pics (apologies for thumbnails)

https://i.postimg.cc/gXPPhwVd/IMG-1321.jpg (https://postimg.cc/gXPPhwVd)
https://i.postimg.cc/R35YskNL/IMG-1322.jpg (https://postimg.cc/R35YskNL)
https://i.postimg.cc/RNWbMStT/IMG-1323.jpg (https://postimg.cc/RNWbMStT)
https://i.postimg.cc/Lh6bbB6w/IMG-1315.jpg (https://postimg.cc/Lh6bbB6w)
https://i.postimg.cc/5XFGm4Nt/IMG-1326.jpg (https://postimg.cc/5XFGm4Nt)

Is it perfect, heck no, but seeing something that resembles the grille and headlight setup the car should have is an incredible improvement for me and my enjoyment of the car.

[camcojb]

Good job! :thumbsup:

[ScotI]

Glad to see you're still around & chipping away @ this.

Keep the updates coming.

[JKnight]

Oh yeah, still chipping away at it. Everyone here understands how much work goes into making a car that works decently. The big trunk pan replacement was a good learning experience. It turned out pretty well given it was my first panel replacement.

https://i.postimg.cc/XZBSRwWK/IMG-0838.jpg (https://postimg.cc/XZBSRwWK)

Cooling system needed a total overhaul. I chose to work within the confines of the 80’s custom aluminum core support. A new stock size, 3 core, Frostbite aluminum radiator was acquired and modified to hold a new fan from a modern Chevy that needed some serious cooling help. The Holley Term X ECU is controlling the C7 Z06 cooling fan via PWM, thanks to Andrew B. who set that up in the tune and assisted with initial startup.
https://i.postimg.cc/2bfkTHWL/IMG-1013.jpg (https://postimg.cc/2bfkTHWL)

With the exterior of this car screaming “modified”, I always liked the idea of keeping the interior somewhat stock or classic looking. But, I made some exceptions in the name of improved functionality with Dakota Digital HDX gauges (RTX wasn’t released when I purchased these), Detroit Speed wiper motor and a beautifully crafted MPI steering wheel. All were chosen to provide at least a nod to the factory style.

https://i.postimg.cc/tnqXGY2X/IMG-1294.jpg (https://postimg.cc/tnqXGY2X)

[JKnight]

Rick’s Restomod tank was paired with a ZL1 Camaro fuel pump and corner pickups (because…why not?) and a Vaporworx controller to make the fuel system as reliable as possible. Also added a fuel vent canister, which does seem to be keeping the fuel smell to a minimum, but I did have an unexpected amount of fuel coming out of the vent when fueling up the car this weekend. Not sure what that’s about. Anyone have any ideas?

https://i.postimg.cc/JGpGBCp0/IMG-0832.jpg (https://postimg.cc/JGpGBCp0)

https://i.postimg.cc/w133X4rV/IMG-0827.jpg (https://postimg.cc/w133X4rV)

https://i.postimg.cc/NF4k7c6t/IMG-1330.jpg (https://postimages.org/)

[Sheck44]

Great work Jeff !
Cheers
Steve

[F'in mine]

Rick’s Restomod tank was paired with a ZL1 Camaro fuel pump and corner pickups (because…why not?) and a Vaporworx controller to make the fuel system as reliable as possible. Also added a fuel vent canister, which does seem to be keeping the fuel smell to a minimum, but I did have an unexpected amount of fuel coming out of the vent when fueling up the car this weekend. Not sure what that’s about. Anyone have any ideas?

https://i.postimg.cc/JGpGBCp0/IMG-0832.jpg (https://postimg.cc/JGpGBCp0)

https://i.postimg.cc/w133X4rV/IMG-0827.jpg (https://postimg.cc/w133X4rV)

https://i.postimg.cc/NF4k7c6t/IMG-1330.jpg (https://postimages.cc/)

Re: Fuel coming out of the vent, I noticed that you're using the LS3 or ZL-1 pump and sending unit all in one rather than the separate sending unit.

Some possible things to check.
Vented cap? Some of Ricks newer tanks have the new style screw caps that I believe are non-vented. I had to try a few reg. vented caps until one that worked properly.
The vent line in your pic looks to be tucked under the fuel feed line, I would get it up high as quickly as possible, maybe you did?
Maybe you over filled the tank and the trigger didn't get activated to stop soon enough. I try not to over fill and listen as I fill up.
The hoses going to the vent canister are in the right ports?
Gas coming from the in ground gas station tanks is cooler then pumped into vehicle gas tank will expand somewhat.

I added another tank vent boss on my filler tube at around the 1-2:00 position to help with the venting, hoping it helps and no issues so far.