WTSC Grand National

[MeanMike]

Seems all these pro-touring cars have a name of some sort. I've never had a name on a project, but it seems like fun. I was watching top gear (US) a few weeks ago when they had the GN on there and they called it a "white trash super car" and I though it was hilarious, so I'm stealing it. I might even get some "WTSC" quarter window stickers modeled after the old 4DSC stickers that came on Nissan Maximas years ago.

Onto the car. I originally built it for drag racing. I previously had mustangs that handled well and always wanted a purpose built drag car. The grass is always greener on the other side. So with the GN, I thought it would be fun to build it specifically for drag racing. So I did. It went 9.26@145 on it's first full 1/4 mile pass. I made maybe 6 passes in it in 6 months time. Each time I went to the track, I figured out something to change and spent a couple months fixing it. It was semi streetable, but not something I wanted to drive every day.

So, I'm going back to a street car that does a bit of everything. It already has more power than I'll ever need. It just needs to handle and some of the creature comforts back.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/osca2623d_zpsc20425d1.jpg

[MeanMike]

Some history on the car. It's a low option 87 GN with manual windows, locks and no cruise. Kinda rare because most GN's were highly optioned. It has all original interior in very nice shape that I'll be keeping. It has an 8.50 legal NHRA certified mild steel cage with removable door bars that I'll be keeping (I still want to hit the drag strip from time to time).
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1263.jpg
I'm using a FAST dash system connected to my XFI that displays all the typical stuff and is very flexible.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1568_zpsc0a5c7f8.jpg

The engine is 277 cubic inches with TA performance aluminum heads, Used busch era Buick motorsport stage 2 on center block, bryant billet crank, crower billet rods, Ross custom pistons, relatively small comp solid roller cam, Champion intake, Custom headers, Danny Bee belt drive, Peterson single stage oil pump with a 67mm precision billet wheel turbo. It's never been on a dyno, but I suspect it makes a little over 900hp turned up. This is way more than any "street" car ever needs. It's down right scary on the street. I'll probably turn it down to ~600hp for street driving and back up when I got to the drag strip. It's controlled with FAST XFI.

I built my own front accessory drive, valve covers, oil pan, headers and a few other pieces on the engine.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/null_zps963af845.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/null_zpsd02f208a.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/null_zps13dee13d.jpg

The front suspension was pure drag race parts from TRZ and while great for drag racing it didn't have enough travel and no sway bar mounts for the street. The afco shocks were nice, but were valved for drag racing. I had a-body spindles and 11" wilwood front brakes. All that is now gone and SC&C parts are on the way. SPC uppers and lowers with tall ball joints, Eibach front springs, Hellwig sway bars front and rear. I went with viking double adjustable shocks all around. For spindles and brakes I bought a set of Baer T4 brakes pre mounted on spindles. I'm still waiting for most of this to show up.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2014/post-76-0-50708500-1404259413_thumb.jpg

The rear suspension is all home built. I started with a 9" truck center stamping. Added 3 1/4" OD x 1/4" wall axle tubes, a back brace and big ford housing ends. It has 35 spline moser axles, a Moser iron center section with 3.50 gears and a spool. I've added adjustable spring perches, adjustable upper and lower control arm mounts, an anti-roll bar and extra bracing. The bracing and anti-roll are coming off and a hellwig bar is going on it. The spool will be traded out eventually, but I haven't decided what to replace it with yet. The rear brakes are 12.19" wilwoods. I would eventually like to swap them for matching baers with parking brakes.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/rearend_zps773ad1f6.jpg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2014/post-76-0-91608000-1404259444_thumb.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1381_zps0bb3e0a0.jpg

[Sieg]

Looking forward to this one Mike!

Ever since I plugged in one of the first Hypertech chip's into a friend's first year Grand National I've been a fan of the cars. :thumbsup:

[MeanMike]

I have a machine shop in my home garage. Mill, lathe, tig, bandsaws, sheetmetal brake etc. you know just your typical home shop. :D So, I like to make as many parts as I can. Here are a few of the home built parts.

Universal radiator modified to fit with a sheetmetal fan shroud.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1401_zps3ed01e7e.jpg
Crank drive mandrel
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/null_zps21b57b8d.jpg
Valve covers
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1328_zpse586d0fa.jpg
Homemade crank trigger
http://www.turbobuick.com/forums/attachments/imageuploadedbyturbobuick-mobile1377689327-174861-jpg.198715/
Headers, downpipe and intercooler piping.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/IMG_0245_zpsd6439036.jpg

[MeanMike]

Creature comforts:
The car had a manual valve body, transbrake th400 in it. It was a little much for a driver. I eventually want to put a t-56 in the car, but for now I'm just putting a simple manual valvebody th400 back in the car.

I haven't decided on wheels yet, but my drag wheels need to sell before I can buy anything anyways.

I have a GN power steering box to go back on to replace the s-10 manual box. I'll have to build new accessory brackets to incorporate the power steering pump. I have a vacuum brake booster and matching master cylinder to go on. I want an e-brake for when I go to a manual trans, but that will have to wait until I can afford the new rear brakes. I eventually want A/C back on the car, but that will be another project for after the car is running again.

[Blake Foster]

COOL CAR!!
I have liked them from the day they came out. so I bought one, we used it to develop the G body suspension parts. I don't drive it as much as I should and the motor needs a rebuild soon, got any spare parts laying around????

http://i1235.photobucket.com/albums/ff425/killer72nova/web10_zpsc6533bbc.jpg

[MeanMike]

Thanks. Your car looks great.

I don't have anything anyone here would want. I have a set of weld alumastar skinny fronts and 15x10 weld rts rears with 275/60 radials. I have a set of 11" wilwood front brakes with vented rotors for an f,a or x body spindle. And I have a set of afco 3830 shocks with G-body coilover kit from trz.

I work out of a cramped garage, so I try to sell off what I don't need.

[instro84]

nice work Mike. i've seen your fab skills over on the buick board.

[WSSix]

Thanks for starting a build thread on the car, Mike. Love the G-body cars. Good luck with the conversion.

[MeanMike]

No real progress on the buick, but parts are rolling in. I'm still waiting on a few parts to show up before I dig into reassembly.

Some of the front suspension parts. Still waiting on upper a-arms and springs from SC&C.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1704_zpsf6e2ce6e.jpg

Baer T4 front brakes and a vacuum brake booster and master assembly. I really want the matching rears now that I've seen the quality of the fronts.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1705_zpsf6533ddc.jpg

Stock fuel tank with twin 340lph pumps inside.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1706_zps368d9dce.jpg

A tamed down manual valve body th400 I put together with spare parts I had laying around. This is good enough to get my by until I can afford put a t56 in the car.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1707_zpsf2f7c6a5.jpg

A stock GN power steering box and pump. I'll have to make a custom bracket and reservoir for the pump. I'm not going to miss the manual steering at all.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1710_zps8de84cdf.jpg

I ordered wheels, but they won't be in for a few more weeks. I'll let them be a mystery. I'm not even sure how they will look on the car.

[tubbed69]

Very nice fab work,awesome car

[89 RS]

Very cool...I would love to have a Grand National. It sounds like that engine is a beast. :thumbsup:
What kind of wheels did you go with?

[MeanMike]

Weld Rts in 18x11 and 18x9.5. I have the 15" version on the rear now and I think the lines fit the cars shape very well. They compliment the car and don't stand out too much. I'm not usually a fan of black centers on wheels, but I figured I would try something new. I was thinking about ccw lm5's or Simmons, but I just couldn't justify the extra money.

[89 RS]

Weld Rts in 18x11 and 18x9.5. I have the 15" version on the rear now and I think the lines fit the cars shape very well. They compliment the car and don't stand out too much. I'm not usually a fan of black centers on wheels, but I figured I would try something new. I was thinking about ccw lm5's or Simmons, but I just couldn't justify the extra money.

Sounds good, I can't blame you going for something priced lower than CCWs.

[MeanMike]

I do a lot of side work to pay for parts for my car. I've just finished the latest round of parts, so now I can get back to mine. It's a good thing because the pile of parts is starting to cover the car up.

I feel like there should be a picture with a $100 bill across the lip. They look kinda big.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1733_zps23b360b3.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1732_zpsb94b8c46.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1731_zpsb97a4573.jpg

[Rick D]

Nice build, I have a friend that is big into GN's still just drag but nice stuff!! I like the wheels they still give it the mean street look!

[WSSix]

Those rims are going to look good on there. Good choice!

[67goatman455]

those wheels are going to look amazing, love the car

[MeanMike]

Finally after months of tearing the car apart, something finally got bolted back on.

The front suspension is back on the car and the garbage man picked up the masive pile of boxes today.
Pretty much a complete Sc&c package. SPC uppers and lowers with tall ball joints, Eibach springs, Hellwig sway bar and I went with viking shocks. A GN power steering box also went back on the car.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1734_zpsdcd54497.jpg

On to the rear of the car. I had wilwoods on the rear, but they didn't match the new Baer's up front and honestly I didn't think they were as nice as the Baer's. So, I had to buy Baer SS4 rear brakes. They also gave me a parking brake (that the wilwoods didn't have). Those will be useful down the road when I swap in a 6 speed.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1738_zpse410970d.jpg
The new brakes required a different brake standoff than what I had. My old axles had 5/8 studs also and were used when I got them, so I bought new ones. "While I'm at it" I went ahead and bought a 35 spline detroit truetrac to replace my spool. Waiting on a new set of ring gear bolts to put it back together. A transbrake and 15lbs. of boost can do neat things to ring gear bolts.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1739_zps54311ed4.jpg
I have a matching hellwig rear sway bar to go on the rearend, but my old drag race anti-roll bar required a lot of bracing under rear end that had to be cut off. (Compare to pic below)
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1737_zps70c9db91.jpg
Since I was doing so much rearend work I decided it would be easiest to pull it out. I was also going from trunk mounted fuel cell to a stock fuel tank. The previous owner of the car had put a lot of extra bars under the back of the car to prevent buckling the quarter panels. A common problem on these cars when drag raced. Some of it wasn't as nice as I would have liked and in my opinion most of the bars were doing nothing but adding weight. Rearend is out of the car so "while I'm at it" I might as well ditch all that extra tubing.
Before
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1380_zps1215767e.jpg
After 4 sawzall blades, two 4.5" cut off wheels and 6 24 grit grinding discs. There are still two stubs hanging from the upper control arm crossmember that I cannot get off now. I may hot wrench them off when the interior is out down the road.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1735_zps76a00e1c.jpg

[MeanMike]

There was one tube connecting the mess under the car to a couple weird bars in the trunk. I've already got the tools out, so I "might as well".
before.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1686_zps1ea8a4dc.jpg
After two more sawzall blades and I'm guessing another two cut off wheels and three grinding pads. I hope to grind the rest of the tube bits off this week. I still have to patch the old fuel cell and fuel pump holes on the trunk pan. I don't think trunk pans are made yet (or needed for that matter), so I'll be making my own. I'm thinking of adding a nice access panel for the fuel pumps "while I'm at it".
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1736_zps69e6e990.jpg

[WSSix]

Looking good, Mike. Fuel pump access panels are a great idea.

[MeanMike]

I've been thinking of doing a t56 swap, but I won't have the money for the trans for a while. I scour ebay from time to time looking for weird buick parts and lately I've been hunting t56 swap parts. I had come across a cheap quicktime BOP bell but it was labeled to fit a T-10, Richmond or TKO, but the pictures didn't look right. Turns out it was a t56 to BOP bell and it's now mine. Score! And it was cheap. Got the Six Speed Monte pedal, clutch master cylinder mount and a new clutch master cylinder today also. It will still be a while before I can scratch up enough change for a t56 magnum.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1740_zpsee781d9e.jpg

Got the rearend finished up and back in the car. I really like it better without all those bars underneath it. It was a real pain to r&r with those bars and not easy to jack up (bars were too low).
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1741_zps9a63b41b.jpg
Time to put the new axles and rear brakes in.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1743_zps4b527885.jpg

I ordered tires a couple weeks ago and they should be in next week, but It will still be a couple weeks before the new front wheels come in. The first set wouldn't clear the front calipers.

[MeanMike]

Rearend and rear brakes are on and done. I've been working on the vacuum brakes and clutch pedal assembly a bit.

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_09_2014/post-76-0-15303200-1409873775_thumb.jpg

I can't wait for the front wheels to get here so I can put the car back on the ground and roll it outside. The BFG Rivals kept getting pushed back, so I decided to go with some drag radials in the rear. May not be the best for handling, but they will surely make up for it in straight line accel. :D 305/35/18's on the rear

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1746_zpsfeb5e272.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20140910_175248_zps5f916545.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20140910_175417_zpsfc32a7cd.jpg

[tones2SS]

Killer build Mike.
I don't know how I missed this one?? :bitchslap:

[WSSix]

I can't wait for you to get the front wheels and tire, too. I want to see this thing sitting on the ground and outside. It's going to look great. Man I love Gbodies.

[Evan Iroc-Z]

I love the GN! This build is fantastic!

[NOPANTS68]

That's something I'd pay to drive. The power surve with a stick is gonna be an absolute blast. Kinda Supra like in some ways.

[instro84]

nice work Mike.

[SSLance]

Love this car so far, keep up the good work.

[MeanMike]

Thanks all for the compliments. I'm surprised by how many people are excited for me to do this to the car. I think it will be much more fun this way.

I've decided to not waste the time putting the fresh th400 back in and go ahead and do the t56 swap. I'll have to wait a while for the trans, but I've got plenty of other things to do to keep me busy.

[SSLance]

That's a smart move...a T56 will make it seem like a different car.

[MeanMike]

Little Details.

I'm not sure why but out of the box, my brake and clutch pedal didn't line up very well. I had to add a bit of length to the clutch slave rod to fine tune the placement of the clutch pedal. I wanted them to be perfectly in line. I couldn't find the recommended pedal pads that were supposed to fit the sickspeedmonte pedal. But I did find some in the "help" section that were larger that fit a Subaru. So, I made new larger pedal plates and welded them onto the brake and clutch pedal.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1749_zps55436adf.jpg

I also made a quick pedal retainer pin because It sucks trying to get the two pedals hooked up under the dash, laying on my back with a cage in the car.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1750_zps9675a6a0.jpg

I followed Mark Stielows lead here on the clutch slave cylinder. I'm running a stock 4th gen Camaro master and I'm probably going to run a Mcleod RXT twin disc clutch. I picked up a GT500 clutch slave for the extra travel for a twin disc. The only issue is hooking the master and slave together and bleeding the two. I've read the cobra guys bleed them by pulling vacuum then pumping or letting them sit overnight. Or, I'll bench bleed them as an assembly and install without unhooking the two.

I'm going to hook the master and slave with a section of pre-made -3 hose I had left over from my rear brakes. The -3 fitting for the master was easy as Russel makes them. The GT500 slave takes a weird M12x1.0 iso bubble flare. I couldn't find that with a -3 on the other side, so I made one. My lathe only cuts standard threads, but luckily I have M12x1.0 dies for another fitting I make for diversion tig welders.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1747_zpsddd5fe12.jpg
Tada
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1748_zps04d45080.jpg

[olds87]

Wow, you are doing really great work. Keep it up.

[MeanMike]

I swear this car didn't want a clutch pedal. It fought me for a couple hours and drew a little blood, but I finally beat it to sumbission. :willy: http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1754_zpsd94287e4.jpg

I had to trim a section of the inner fender to get the bracket in. The inner fender had a indented line inside that worked perfectly to cut to clear the bracket. It's almost like they intended for it to happen.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1753_zps88b2ccf2.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1751_zpsc1bc9216.jpg

[MeanMike]

I did some labor trading with another GN guy and on I got a new passenger fender painted and I'm going to try to get that hung today so I can get the front bumper and spoiler back on. I think it will sit a little lower in the front when I put a trans back in it and after it settles in a bit.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1773_zpse00469fa.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1775_zpsef68e079.jpg

[WSSix]

aww yes! Looks great, Mike.

[MeanMike]

This car has needed this new fender for so long. The old one had a hole cut in it from the previous owner and I had patched it up for the short term. I've had the badges for it sitting on my desk for a couple years and it's nice to finally see them go on. I still need to tweak the bumpers and need some shims, but this was the new look I was hoping for.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1776_zps10db5c9f.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1777_zps691b84ff.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1778_zps84c35388.jpg

[tones2SS]

Looks great Mike. Sits really nice.

[MeanMike]

I really did not expect to be able to buy a trans this quick, but it's here. I sold my enclosed trailer, now that this is a "street car" and it helped quite a bit. Now I need to get back to work and get it in the car.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1798_zpsda639861.jpg

I got the flywheel and clutch a few weeks ago.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_10_2014/post-76-0-19358600-1412818357_thumb.jpg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_10_2014/post-76-0-38839100-1412818400_thumb.jpg

McCleod said I would be more than fine with an F-body slave, so I bought one and a tick speed bleeder.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_10_2014/post-76-0-22311400-1412818423_thumb.jpg

[Che70velle]

Mike, the car looks great. These have always been one of my all time favorite rides. Good call on the Tick remote bleeder. I elected to not use a remote bleeder on mine, and I ended up having to build a special wrench to reach the factory bleeder. Keep at it!

[Rick D]

I just love the GN's, these are still such a bad azz looking car! I have a friend up here in IL that still has his 87, his is a street car but has been in storage for a long time now. Last time at the track it went 9.0 yeah street car!!

Keep it up, I like the wheels on it as well!

[MeanMike]

I had to take a break from the car for a few weeks, but I'm back on it. I knocked out the brake lines today. I still had lines from about the frame rail back and up to the front corners, but I had to get from the new master down to the frame rail. I get better at brake lines each time I do them, but there is still so much room for improvement.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1799_zps0c1aa6ad.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1802_zps7f8fbd78.jpg

I also installed my coil packs for the XIM addition. I had a belt drive distributor and MSD 7AL2 box on it before. The XIM should be more long distance friendly and removing the distributor frees up room for the accessories.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1800_zps1f398c28.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1801_zps47456ef9.jpg

For the first time since I've owned the car, it has a working parking brake. I had to source all the parts, but it wasn't too hard.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1803_zps4730382b.jpg

[Rybar]

Sweet build man I really like the directions your going. We needs to see moreof these cars built like this.

[MeanMike]

I got a little done on the trans swap this weekend. My block has a lot of crank centerline offset because of a line hone issue a while back. So, that requires some offset dowel pins. I measured and had .039" runout. That is a .0195" offset. I was going to order a set of offset dowel pins from Robbmc.com, but they were on back order, so I made my own.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1808_zpsb65d9cdd.jpg

While I had the bellhousing on the motor, I measured for the hole for the shifter. This is the minimum I'll need to cut. It may need more cut once the trans is in the car. I'll make a sheet metal cover and put a lower boot from a mustang on the floor once I get it all situated.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1806_zps23e78c48.jpg

McLeod RXT clutch looks like blown apart. They sent me some metric bolts where I needed standard, so I can't put it in just yet.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1810_zps904d2713.jpg

I mocked up the slave and shifter while it's on the floor.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1811_zps0333454c.jpg

[montessaj]

Very well done on your GN transformation. If you don't mind what sizes are you wheels?

[MeanMike]

18x11 and 18x9.5

[MeanMike]

Clutch is in. I need a trans spacer before I can put the trans in.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20141121_162114_zps8e1f6dca.jpg

Power steering is back on the car. Not real impressive, just a bunch of stock parts, but they work well so why try to improve them.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1816_zps6c3df304.jpg

[COYBILT]

This is truly great to see you put this car together, I really hope these cars gain momentum. You and Blake are trend setters and I hope a bigger restoration aftermarket follows for these cars.

[MeanMike]

Trans spacer came in yesterday and I did a little cutting on it to clear the hydraulic fittings. I had to wait until today for a friend to come over and help me stab it in. The trans by itself is as heavy as a th400. Add the clutch, flywheel and bell housing and It's definitely not saving any weight.

Notice I have also put the quick disconnect back on. I put a clutch in by brothers ford ranger last weekend and that QD setup was a lifesaver. We were able to completely remove the hydraulics from the truck, bench bleed them and then reassemble it on the truck with no issues. It was super easy to bleed like that. So I'm going to buy the McLeod -4 line with the male end of the QD on it instead of a simple hose between the slave and master.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20141125_200154_zps8efc082c.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20141125_200144_zpsc93eee87.jpg

I had to modify my trans crossmember also. I probably have a bit more driveline angle now and the mount is spaced lower than a th400, so I ended up remaking the trans mount.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1822_zps644b3536.jpg
I got lucky on the shifter placement. It's in the exact same place that my automatic shifter was. It won't take much cutting on the console plate and a nice shifter boot to get that looking good.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1817_zps472f7917.jpg

[MeanMike]

I moved the trans up another 1 3/8" and had to remove a lot of trans tunnel.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1825_zpsbd41cfbb.jpg
I've been working on a new cover all day. It's nothing compared to most of teh sheetmetal work I've been lookng at here, but I'm trying. It's mostly done, now I've got to figure out how to mount a piece of rubber sheet and have it hug the shifter for an inner boot. The new tunnel piece couldn't be any wider than this and still fit in the console.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1826_zpsccc2cafb.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1828_zps28d3fb15.jpg

[andrewb70]

Cool build.

Since you shimmed the transmission back did you have to shim the slave forward? Should you?

Andrew

[MeanMike]

McLeod says you need .125"-.250" for the rxt clutch. I only had .050 without spacers. Adding the .250 trans to bell spacer put me at .300" clearance. I put a .113" tick slave cylinder spacer my friend had left over from his corvette. That put me back at .187.

So, yes, but it depends on what your clearance is.

[SSLance]

Wow, the amount you relieved the tunnel to raise the trans is really going to help with the driveline angles. Nice work.

Love this build, can't wait to see it on the road.

[MeanMike]

Wow, the amount you relieved the tunnel to raise the trans is really going to help with the driveline angles. Nice work.

Love this build, can't wait to see it on the road.

Thanks. Surprisingly the tail shaft still isn't as high as the old th400 was. This trans is a monster. If I went any higher, I would have to cut the tunnel all the way to the bellhousing.

[MeanMike]

I got a plan for the shifter boots. I made another sheetmetal riser to get up higher around the shifter. I don't think I can cram any more sheetmetal inside the console.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20141130_135711_zpse009261f.jpg
I'm going to sandwich a piece of rubber sheet between that and an aluminum hold down ring. I machined that today. I have to find some rubber sheet this week.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20141130_133408_zps24bc48b7.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20141130_135527_zps7201160a.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20141130_135726_zps8df00ae1.jpg
For the upper boot, I found a grey universal one on ebay that I'm going to fasten to the bottom of this new bezel that I also machined today. I'll figure out the mounting better once the boot gets here.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20141130_153758_zpsb92e8ebd.jpg

[MeanMike]

I haven't gotten much done in the last couple weeks. I did get the tunnel cover painted, installed and seam sealed. I put a piece of rubber to seal the shifter to the tunnel. I've stripped all the interior in preparation for dynamat (fat mat) install and some carpet pad to try to get the heat and sound down. I also figured out how to make the upper shifter boot attach. It turned out pretty nice and it matches the steering wheel almost perfectly except the steering wheel is a bit dirty. I'm thinking of either having a turbo 6 shifter knob made, or have it engraved in the shifter boot plate, then powdercoat the plate to match the ash tray cover behind it.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1830_zps67ecf5ec.jpg

[Che70velle]

Looking good mike! Sent you a pm.

[64G-lark]

Very nice build. Your fab. skills look great to me. Always liked the GN's. Was that a 90 degree fitting for the clutch master cylinder? The one that is pinned to the end of the cylinder. I have been looking for one due to the proximity to my steering shaft. If so can you tell me were to get one?

[MeanMike]

Thanks. The fitting in the picture is a straight fitting, but I have looked for a 90* fitting before and found this. http://www.ebay.com/itm/84-97-CHEVY-T5-T56-HYDRAULIC-CLUTCH-LINE-FITTING-90-AN-4-LINE-5-6-SPEED-SWAP-/111336523560?pt=Motors_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item19ec2c8728&vxp=mtr
They have it in -3 also if you look at their other items.

[WSSix]

Nice progress. You're going to need closed cell foam and mass loaded vinyl if you want to block out sound like road noise. Dynamat and the other stick on products are only for vibration dampening. Lots of good info here http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/

[MeanMike]

That's actually what I'm putting in. I'm doing sections of fatmat where needed, then a layer of 1/8" ensolite then a layer of mlv.

[waynieZ]

Mike the work you did on the shift boot and console plate looks great! Nice work.

[WSSix]

That's actually what I'm putting in. I'm doing sections of fatmat where needed, then a layer of 1/8" ensolite then a layer of mlv.

Good deal. My Sierra is quieter than my sister's lexus now.

[MeanMike]

I decided instead of powder coating the shifter boot plate, I would make the other plates match. The pictures aren't great, but I epoxied pieces of aluminum sheet onto the areas where it used to be dark grey.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1859_zpsebdcdd12.jpg

Started on a new switch panel, just waiting on the switches to show up.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1860_zps9b3fa33f.jpg

I decided to follow this guys recommendations on sound proofing. A lot of people recommended it and I can't say I know better. http://www.sounddeadenershowdown.com/
Layer of Fat Mat to keep the panels vibrations low especially on the rear firewall.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1855_zps072c85e3.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1856_zpsd3c79f02.jpg
Then a layer of 1/8" closed cell foam covered in a layer of MLV (mass loaded vinyl) This stuff is heavy. I probably added 100lb into the car but it should be as quiet as a new car. I have to pick up some contact cement tomorrow to glue all the loose edges together. Finish the rear firewall and then I can put the interior back in for the last time.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1857_zps703c596f.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1858_zps4cd0b6df.jpg

[WSSix]

Don knows what he's talking about. Be sure to do the doors and behind the sail panels as well.

[MeanMike]

Thanks. I'll be dynomatting the doors soon and I'm waiting to do behind the sail panels when I put the stereo and speakers in the car. I don't think I'll bother with the foam and mlv on the doors.

[WSSix]

It's definitely worth it but it all depends on just how quiet you want the car to be. My truck is my daily driver and it has a nice stereo. I wanted quiet so I did as much as I could.

[MeanMike]

Yay, I have interior again! I think the front seats have been in and out of the car 10 times on this conversion, hopefully they are in for good now.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1863_zps3a35b371.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1862_zps2e36ce06.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1864_zpse60e70b6.jpg

Next project is the trunk. I'm going to seal up all the holes. Install a removable panel over the fuel pump hole and spare tire well. Finish up the rear wiring for the fuel pumps and battery disconnect. Repaint the rear cage down bars after removing all the other tubes. Then install a nice thin black carpet.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1866_zpsd5c8b6c2.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1865_zpsf3df6cc6.jpg

[Che70velle]

Looks great Mike. So, how close is this to being on the road?

[MeanMike]

Still a long way. I'm only getting one day a week to work on it. I still have to run fuel line (stainless hard line), make a crank pulley, fix a coolant leak around my belt drive, rework my intercooler charge tubes, wire most everything, shorten my driveshaft, fill and bleed all fluids, alignment, hang the exhaust and build a new air intake and filter box. Hopefully it will be done before spring is here, but I'm not rushing it.

[SSLance]

lol... I hate it when I start making lists like that and they keep going and going and going... :waveflag:

Interior looks good, keep on plugging along and you'll be done soon at the rate you work.

[MeanMike]

lol... I hate it when I start making lists like that and they keep going and going and going... :waveflag:

Interior looks good, keep on plugging along and you'll be done soon at the rate you work.

Yes, the list. I get one thing done and add two more to the list. But you know you are close when you get summit gift cards for Christmas and can't figure out what to buy.

[MeanMike]

I really didn't want to work on the trunk today, so I started on my crank pulley instead.

I had a V-belt on it before with just an alternator. To use the Turbo Buick power steering pump, I had to switch to a 6 rib belt. I could only find one place that made a 1" mandrel driven 6" 6 rib belt. It wasn't exactly what I wanted and they think a lot of them, so I figured I would just make it myself.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1874_zps857736db.jpg

I have a piece of 1" x 6" flat bar that will work. If I had a 6" round piece that might have been better, but I used what I had.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1869_zps51e4b720.jpg

First bore the 1" ID in it, so I can fixture there and build off that centerline. Drilled it 7/8" and then bored to size with a boring bar.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1871_zps6305ac32.jpg

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1872_zps1977531f.jpg

The I found a piece of 1.5" scrap to build a mandrel out of.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1873_zps69fc15e6.jpg

I roughted out the OD in the bandsaw and mill and started turning.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1875_zpsbabee94c.jpg

Finshed to size. 6.000" OD.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1877_zps7fb4541d.jpg

[MeanMike]

I found K sized serpentine belt dimensions online. They use a 40* angle, so I had to grind my own cutter.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/cutter_zpsc74c28f0.jpg
Then I cut the grooves. This was a little nerve racking because that's a lot of chip load on a really thin (brittle) carbide tool.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/pulley_zpsc55fd6e0.jpg

[grendel]

That's just showing off... :military:

[YAMATHUMP]

Very unique, good looking car, can't wait to see it on the road.
You have some great fab skills.

[WSSix]

Very nice, Mike!

[Che70velle]

Crazy skills! Let's see an overall view, Mike. I want to see what you did with the front face. Does it press on, or is it keyed, or what?

[waynieZ]

Wow nice!

[MeanMike]

Crazy skills! Let's see an overall view, Mike. I want to see what you did with the front face. Does it press on, or is it keyed, or what?

The face and detail work is tomorrow or Sundays project. I wanted to get the v-grooves done before I spent too much time making it pretty.

It will be keyed (1" shaft w/ 1/8" key), but I don't have a 1/8" broach right now. I'm going to see if one of the local shops I use for work has one, if not I'll buy one.

[MeanMike]

In the final episode of our three part mini series - "As the Pulley Turns"

I did a little detail work on the sides while it was still in the lathe.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1878_zps689fa0e7.jpg

Then setup the rotary table in the mill.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1879_zps4cdadfe4.jpg

And setup the pulley on the rotary table.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1880_zpsc59acd83.jpg

Then just cut away everything that isn't a pulley.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1882_zps8ebd6349.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1883_zps64faf3cb.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1885_zps865fc55b.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1887_zpsc94ee60e.jpg

Do a little deburring and hit it with some scotchbrite this is what's left.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1888_zps240ef9f5.jpg

On the motor. I have to put an idler pulley up around that left button head bolt, that's for tomorrow.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1889_zps2cb1074a.jpg

[Che70velle]

Mike, it's a work of art, for sure! I'm not sure I've ever seen a keyed crank pulley made from aluminum, though. All I've ever bought or used were steel, but I'm probably wrong. Either way, great job!

[waynieZ]

Nice job ! It came out sweet!

[MeanMike]

I had to add an idler to the mix to get it all to work. The power steering and alternator bracket is a purchased part and I decided to just modify it. It's already overly complicated and too many parts, but I added more pieces to it.

I added an angled piece to help support the pulley and used some b7 all thread and made a nut/ pulley locator.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150104_124012_zpsac85521b.jpg

That holds the pulley just fine.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150104_124045_zps94c9b416.jpg

Instead of keying the crank pulley I decided to convert it all over to pin drive. Each pulley has a set of pressed in 1/4" dowel pins and two slip fit holes on the other side. The mandrel has two pressed in pins and the nut on the end has two slip fit holes. It all stacks up together. This will not have any issues, it's solid.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150104_124612_zpsdb399dd8.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150104_155508_zps40256b42.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150104_161327_zpsef184c18.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150104_162318_zps0eb0c1f5.jpg

All finished. Gotta find a belt that fits. If you are wondering how the belt is tensioned, the power steering pump has a jack screw underneath it to move it up to tension the belt.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150104_164000_zpse6687a24.jpg

[Che70velle]

Boom, nailed it. I used to purchase pin drive set ups from CV, for my late models. That's a nice job!

[MeanMike]

Fuel system is done. I'm taking a little risk here for an experiment. I had a -10 feed and -8 return before with a big loud fuel pump. I've always built overkill in a fuel system, but that may have been going to far. My last mustang made 600 at the wheels with a single -6 line returnless system. Will a single -8 feed 950 flywheel hp? I'm going to find out. I'm also not dual feeding the fuel rails. Big hp efi cars make 2500 hp feeding 8 x 160lb/hr injectors on a single fuel rail on each side, I'm doing less than that with 6 in basically one rail. I have the y-block and lines to dual feed later if I find issues on the dyno.

The tank is a stock replacement GN tank, with twin 340lph racetronix pumps, -8 feed to a holley 175gph (660lph) 10 micron e85 safe filter, -8 to the passenger rail, a -8 crossover, then my weldon 2040 regulator to a -6 return running through a GM flex fuel sensor. I had intended to do stainless hardline, but without pulling the body off the frame, it just wasn't going to be practical. I would have had 6 feet of hardline max and added more joints to leak. The body wont' come up off the frame at all with the cage in the car.

From back to front.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1899_zps605b8b01.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1893_zps25e18a32.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1894_zps1e557799.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1897_zps8b75062d.jpg
Both lines run inside the frame all the way up front and out the stock hole in the crossmember.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1891_zps1d6697dd.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1890_zps036d4c2f.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1892_zpsc3208900.jpg

[MeanMike]

It was so nice outside today I opened up the garage door and had too find something to do.

I used to have two 1/2 npt tapped holes with -10 fitting threaded into the front plate. That meant I had to RTV the plate to the belt drive. Last time I put it back together it leaked. The belt drive has -10 o-ring threads in it, but because of the front plate, I can't use a normal fitting. So, I made my own. I cut bigger holes in the front plate to pass the new fittings through.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1901_zps3b514eed.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1900_zpsf6678d6a.jpg

That is the last custom machined part. If it's not too expensive, I'm going to gather up all the machined parts and have them hard anodized black.

[waynieZ]

Amazing job.

[WSSix]

great job mike!

[MeanMike]

Not a lot of progress lately. I sent 90% of my machined parts off to be anodized. I can't do a lot until most of that stuff gets back.



I did re-do my water pump feed. I had a rubber hose on it that I found at the auto parts store that was close, but not perfect. I never did like it. So, I made a perfect fitting one from stainless tube and some silicone clamps.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150203_195143_zps7eed5f8c.jpg



My old header crossover hit the new bellhousing, so I remade it. I used a burns double slip this time instead of a bellows. I like the fit, just hope it seals up.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150203_195252_zps0cab6c79.jpg



I've got all the a/c parts except the lines. I'll order the parts to make them as soon as I get all the components mounted.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150203_195120_zpsc6dc1bb9.jpg



I found a factory accessory bracket and bought one of the billet tensioners. Other than the fact that it looks like a wiring bomb went off, It's starting to look like a stock GN under the hood again.

http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/20150203_195334_zpsc7cd45f0.jpg

[MeanMike]

Pretty anodized car parts. I sent them off last Friday and got them back today.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1921_zpsd001789d.jpg

[Che70velle]

Mike, these parts look terrific! Let's see them on the car now.

[Evan Iroc-Z]

Great build! I started the path of putting the 109 block in my Camaro, but with the price of having to buy everything it was just too expensive. I have since gone with the Series II 3800 and a turbo.

As said, get to work putting them on the car.

[Justin@EntropyRad]

G-body wizardry at it's best:trophy-1302:

[MeanMike]

Ask and ye shall receive. Parts are back on the car.

I don't know why Baer didn't anodize this cap to match the hub, but it looks better now. Better than the cheap center caps that weld gives with the wheels.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1922_zps5fe0088d.jpg
Fuel rails and every fuel fitting that I modified is now redone in black anodize. No issues with E85 now.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1923_zps6fef7604.jpg
Pulleys all back on. That is an a/c delete pulley on there now where the compressor would be. I bought the sanden compressor and have to make some adapter brackets for it to work on the stock accessory bracket.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1925_zpsa18c879f.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1927_zpsf3a40650.jpg
Thermostat housing and cam sync bracket are also now black.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1926_zpsbff88d54.jpg
Shock brackets and rearend fill cap are black now.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1929_zps84b9a141.jpg
Starting on the tubing work. Hope to knock the rest out tomorrow.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1924_zps39e54639.jpg

[MeanMike]

Got the intercooler tubes redone. The downpipe still fits. That's probably the first part that I've been able to just put back on without modifying.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1930_zpse17df243.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1934_zpsae2c1744.jpg

[BanditDave]

Love this build...need moar updates!!!

Mind PMing me the back spacing on those wheels? I just looked they the whole thread but don't recall a frame notch mentioned but it's gotta have it with those steam rollers?!

Awesome build man!
Dave

[Justin@EntropyRad]

Love these things.

Are the parts Hard Anno'd or standard black?

[MeanMike]

Love this build...need moar updates!!!

Mind PMing me the back spacing on those wheels? I just looked they the whole thread but don't recall a frame notch mentioned but it's gotta have it with those steam rollers?!

Awesome build man!
Dave

Thank you. I started a new job and have been traveling for the last couple weeks for training. Once I get back home and get settled into the new job, I'll get back to the car.

18x9 Weld RTS front with 5.1" backspacing and high pad brake clearance. 245/40/18 MT Sport Comp tires. SC&C stage 2 front suspension with SPC lowers and Baer T4 brakes.
18x11 Weld RTS rear with 5.7 backspacing and medium pad brake clearance. But, the rearend is narrowed about 3/8" per side. Frame is notched and stock wheel wells are stretched about 1". 305/35/18's M/T Drag Radials on the rear

Love these things.

Are the parts Hard Anno'd or standard black?

Just standard black. The pulleys should have been hard coated. But it was a lot of money and for two different processes between the batch, I would have had to pay two minimum charges.

[Justin@EntropyRad]

I hope the pullies dont turn purple. Im betting they did a good job and the parts wont discolor

[MeanMike]

I used this shop specifically because of that. We used a local shop at my old job and their parts were red in a few weeks. These guys have been doing all the work since and it stays black.

[MeanMike]

Long time no update. I started a new job and decided to start another car project, 92 mustang. I need a break from this car for a while.

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_06_2015/post-76-0-50806300-1435516514_thumb.jpg

But now I'm refreshed and back at it ready for the final stretch on the GN.

One of my minor holdups was the drive shaft. I had an expensive Mark Williams steel drive shaft. They wanted over $200 to shorten it plus shipping both ways. I figured I could just sell it and buy a new one and come out ahead. It took a while but I finally sold it and put the money towards a 3.5" aluminum shaft from Coleman Racing. I'm pleasantly surprised by the quality for the price. It has forged Sonnax weld yokes, 3.5" .125 wall 6061 tube and decent welds. It came with neapco greasable 1350 joints. I would have preferred spicer solid joints, but I'll give them a try.

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-76-0-51360200-1436908064_thumb.jpg
I already had the spicer forged yoke for the t-56 magnum.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-76-0-76856700-1436908080_thumb.jpg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-76-0-21217600-1436908097_thumb.jpg

I've been working on a bunch of little stuff lately. Pulled the intercooler and painted it so it doesn't stick out from behind the grill as much. Buttoned up the accessories and coolant plumbing.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-76-0-55859700-1436721709_thumb.jpg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-76-0-82899600-1436721716_thumb.jpg
Every other hose on the car is braided stainless, might as well.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-76-0-49977600-1436908089_thumb.jpg

Tonight I finished up the charge tubes.
Did my own, home grown bead rolling.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-76-0-92380400-1437098631_thumb.jpg
Cleaned the tubes inside and scotchbrited the outside.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-76-0-47563400-1437098633_thumb.jpg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-76-0-63135600-1437098634_thumb.jpg
And installed them and the turbo for good.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_07_2015/post-76-0-68292100-1437098636_thumb.jpg

[WSSix]

Looking good, Mike. How soon til you think you can get out there and lay some rubber down? I'm really excited to hear how the car performs with the T56.

[MeanMike]

This weekend I'll install the new wheel studs and re-fit the tailpipe. That's it mechanically. I have a few days of wiring to do that I plan to take a little time off to finish week after next. Then fill all the fluids, bleed everything and nut and bolt the car. Then tuning and tire smoke. I hope by early September it's sorted out so I can enjoy the cooler weather.

The main office for my new job is in Warren, MI and a bunch of my new co-workers want me to bring my car up for the dream cruise, but I don't think I have that much energy right now to get it done by then.

[MeanMike]

Wiring is finished. It took a lot longer than expected, but it's nice and clean. I used my XFI to control a lot of new functions. Added flex fuel, individual coil packs (XIM), Oil pressure safety shut down and fuel pressure compensation, boost control. Twin in tank fuel pumps, the first runs like normal. The second turns on when the engine crosses into boost. I use a mph based output to close the reverse lockout on the t56 above 5 mph.

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-76-0-55732500-1438466611.jpg

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-76-0-21169100-1439086271.jpg

https://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-d9QjHMk/0/X2/i-d9QjHMk-X2.jpg

[Che70velle]

Looks great Mike. How does the car drive?

[MeanMike]

I haven't driven it yet. Still finishing up all the little details before it hits the road.

[MeanMike]

It lives again. I might actually take it for a spin tonight.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=n3wh4AQijjw
n3wh4AQijjw

[Evan Iroc-Z]

If those weren't such well known cars, you could surprise a lot of people with how docile it sounds. Nice job.

[MeanMike]

Yeah, the cam is suprisingly small. The motor has a solid lifters and shaft mount rockers that are a bit noisy. It sounds like a sewing machine with the hood up. I could swap to hydraulic lifters and still make 800+hp to the tires.

It had a loud external fuel pump before that was a dead giveaway that it was fast. The twin in tank pumps might be the best change I made. You can't even hear them now.

[MeanMike]

I orignially used a stock f-body clutch master and even after a few days of bleeding, I could not get enough travel for the rxt clutch. I ordered a DSE master adapter and tilton 7/8 master to fix that. Well, the new clutch master is in and fixed the problem. Although after bleeding this one, I wonder how much more air could have been in the stocker. We bench bled this one for a good 30 minutes and just kept getting more and more air. It was ridiculous how long it took to get all the air out. You could see air bubbles pop up on the opaque cap on the tilton to let us know it was still coming out.

Tomorrow I'm going to put the filler plates in the trunk and figure out why the sending unit isn't reading right. Then I'm out stuff to do until I get a trans speedo plug and an alignment. I never thought this day would come.

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-76-0-52632000-1439428526_thumb.jpg

http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-76-0-41586200-1439428539_thumb.jpg

[Bsinclair]

Mike, I noticed your return going through the flex fuel sensor only. I did the same thing on my grand national but ran into problems. I have a 10 feed and 8 return. i noticed while on the dyno the fuel pressure flat lined on the 4psi gatespring then started to fall off at higher rpm's. This showed a restriction on the return side which at first i thought i had a regulator problem. turned out the flex fuel sensor was just bottle necking return fuel. we added a y into the inlet and outlet from the flex fuel sensor and that fixed the issue.


Fuel system is done. I'm taking a little risk here for an experiment. I had a -10 feed and -8 return before with a big loud fuel pump. I've always built overkill in a fuel system, but that may have been going to far. My last mustang made 600 at the wheels with a single -6 line returnless system. Will a single -8 feed 950 flywheel hp? I'm going to find out. I'm also not dual feeding the fuel rails. Big hp efi cars make 2500 hp feeding 8 x 160lb/hr injectors on a single fuel rail on each side, I'm doing less than that with 6 in basically one rail. I have the y-block and lines to dual feed later if I find issues on the dyno.

The tank is a stock replacement GN tank, with twin 340lph racetronix pumps, -8 feed to a holley 175gph (660lph) 10 micron e85 safe filter, -8 to the passenger rail, a -8 crossover, then my weldon 2040 regulator to a -6 return running through a GM flex fuel sensor. I had intended to do stainless hardline, but without pulling the body off the frame, it just wasn't going to be practical. I would have had 6 feet of hardline max and added more joints to leak. The body wont' come up off the frame at all with the cage in the car.

From back to front.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1899_zps605b8b01.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1893_zps25e18a32.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1894_zps1e557799.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1897_zps8b75062d.jpg
Both lines run inside the frame all the way up front and out the stock hole in the crossmember.
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1891_zps1d6697dd.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1890_zps036d4c2f.jpg
http://i112.photobucket.com/albums/n177/edwardsmt/CIMG1892_zpsc3208900.jpg

[MeanMike]

Mike, I noticed your return going through the flex fuel sensor only. I did the same thing on my grand national but ran into problems. I have a 10 feed and 8 return. i noticed while on the dyno the fuel pressure flat lined on the 4psi gatespring then started to fall off at higher rpm's. This showed a restriction on the return side which at first i thought i had a regulator problem. turned out the flex fuel sensor was just bottle necking return fuel. we added a y into the inlet and outlet from the flex fuel sensor and that fixed the issue.

It should be returning 100% of the fuel when the engine isn't running and I'm having no problems like that. Were you running this same sensor or the older one that has the inlet and out let parallel to each other? I plan to keep my eye on it regardless.

[Justin@EntropyRad]

That thing is dipped in awesome

[MeanMike]

Thanks. It get's better.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsMYXJbwrsw
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=HsMYXJbwrsw

[Che70velle]

Car looks fantastic Mike. Best looking GN I've ever seen.
Next video hopefully includes some tire smoke....just sayin.

[MeanMike]

You aren't the first person asking for smoke. I've got plenty of bugs to work out and break in on the trans and clutch, but eventually I will turn it back up.

[MeanMike]

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhDQbyCkfss&feature=youtu.be

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AhDQbyCkfss&feature=youtu.be

[GregWeld]

AhDQbyCkfss&feature

[MeanMike]

Anybody that followed this thread from the beginning a year ago would see that I took a running car and basically redid everything but the engine. At this point it's "done" again. If anyone see's me tear it apart or even hears me talk about making changes again they are welcome to slap me. I'm calling this build DONE. It's now in the drive, maintain and enjoy phase of life.

I raised the front up a little and it get's an alignment Saturday morning. Then just cruising and tuning. I took it for a spin in the light drizzling rain to get the front end to settle.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-76-0-07232600-1440019085_thumb.jpg
Then I swapped spots with my Mustang in the garage so I can continue it's build.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_08_2015/post-76-0-40727200-1440019086_thumb.jpg

[MeanMike]

Now that the weather is cooling off I've been putting miles on my car. It was nice yesterday, so I cleaned it up and took some pictures.

I've fixed a few bugs as they pop up. I've got a few small changes I want to make to refine it. First is get rid of the solid roller lifters and switch it to Hydraulic. The sewing machine noise get's old on the highway. I also want a quieter exhaust. Other than that It's been pretty enjoyable.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-76-0-55535700-1443985584_thumb.jpg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-76-0-07674800-1443985577_thumb.jpg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-76-0-94609700-1443985607_thumb.jpg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_10_2015/post-76-0-18511600-1443985600_thumb.jpg

[Evan Iroc-Z]

Simply incredible! I have always had a soft spot for the GN.

[WSSix]

How does it drive with the boost and manual? Is it a smooth transition or a solid on/off with the boost? I've always wondered how a turbo Buick would be to drive with a manual. Congrats on getting the car outside!

[MeanMike]

How does it drive with the boost and manual? Is it a smooth transition or a solid on/off with the boost? I've always wondered how a turbo Buick would be to drive with a manual. Congrats on getting the car outside!

I haven't turned it up yet. It's only making about 4psi of boost right now, so it may change some at 25psi. But getting above 0 is usually the struggle It is pretty much just like a twin turbo 2000 mustang GT I had before. I spools about like any normal stick turbo car. The motor is big (relatively), the turbo and cam are small. All of that helps. I'm very happy with it.

[shadow images]

Nice build. Did you decided against A/C ?

[MeanMike]

For now, no a/c. I would have had to pull my dash out to fab up some a/c duct connectors to make it blow from the factory vents. The way my cage is built the windshield has to come out of the cage must be cut to get the dash out. So I just decided to get it going without it. The accessory bracket is ready for the compressor whenever I do get that urge to put it in, but so far I haven't needed it in the fall weather.

[WSSix]

Any more progress, Mike?

[shadow images]

For now, no a/c. I would have had to pull my dash out to fab up some a/c duct connectors to make it blow from the factory vents. The way my cage is built the windshield has to come out of the cage must be cut to get the dash out. So I just decided to get it going without it. The accessory bracket is ready for the compressor whenever I do get that urge to put it in, but so far I haven't needed it in the fall weather.


It can be done without removing the dash but its way easier if you do. I engineered the kit for ArizonaGN.com. I don't blame you for wanting to drive it for awhile.

[instro84]

Mike, do you have a part number for the fitting you have on your fuel pressure regulator?
thanx

[MeanMike]

Mike, do you have a part number for the fitting you have on your fuel pressure regulator?
thanx

It hurts a little to buy one, but it's clean.
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/aei-15638

[instro84]

thanx Mike.

[MeanMike]

You'll need a thin wrench on the -8 fuel rail side to get it tight. I assume you are using Champion fuel rails also.

[MeanMike]

Any more progress, Mike?

9 months later and there is finally more progress. I kinda called the car done before, but that never really happens.

Last I left off I wanted quieter exhaust and hydraulic lifters.

Last months project.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_2016_06/image.thumb.jpg.1626581f5775c08fa05df569160605d4.j pg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_2016_06/image.thumb.jpg.17a05172e842ef1b028cfac8223fe45b.j pg
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_2016_05/image.thumb.jpg.0db59e0603fef16055094ecd8fb7caf6.j pg
It's just a cheap pypes stainless catback that I fancied up with some tig welding and a couple v-bands. It so quite you really only hear valvetrain noise now.
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=eCVxdjQuqbQ

Well that's just entirely to much noise for an 800 hp v6. So:
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_2016_07/image.thumb.jpeg.6811e6471b0207681c476f8cfbb69433. jpeg
Lots going on in there right now. I'm swapping solid roller lifters and springs for hydraulic stuff. That allows me to put a timing chain back on it and a stock timing cover and water pump. It had a belt drive with belt driven oil and an electric water pump. Not exactly inspiring on a long drive. This also free's up some heater hose connections and some space for some a/c hoses.

That's the next project. I'm cutting the front half of the cage out of the car, going from a 10 point to a 4 point roll bar. I'm also putting stock seatbelts back in it. 5 point harnesses suck. Then with the cage modified, I can get the dash out and get that a/c in there.

And somewhere in there I fixed up all the holes in the trunk and put some carpet back in it.
http://streetntrack.net/uploads/monthly_2016_05/image.thumb.jpg.965ec5fa19d8198e5e95fc83103ecb4c.j pg

[SSLance]

Love all the changes...sounds like it'll be more and more like a street car all the time.

I have 5 points and my factory 3 points in my car, 5 points used on race day, 3 points for everyday driving. IF you can swing a setup like this I highly recommend.