Front Suspension Alignment Geometry For The Street?

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I'm probably going to bring my car in to the alignment shop next week and although there seems to be plenty of information (and a couple of stickies) on geometry for the race track I was wondering what everyone has found is the best for the street.

I remember seeing a post around here somewhere about NOT using the original factory settings and I believe it had something to do with Bias vs. Radial tires. I can't seem to find the darn post though.

I have pretty much all brand new or rebuilt components in my front suspension (besides the springs themselves). What numbers should I have the guys at the alignment shop set the car to?

Thanks!

[Ron in SoCal]

David Pozzi has done a lot of research on stock first gen stuff and I recommend you go to his site for info.

http://www.pozziracing.com/first_gen_suspension.htm#Alignment%20specs


Onto alignment, taken from his page:

David's Specs
Caster 5 deg positive, or as much positive as you can achieve up to 5 deg, can use .5 deg additional positive on the passenger side to compensate for road crown. A common setting would be: LF 5 deg positive, RF 5.5 deg positive.
Camber -.25 degee for mostly freeway driving,
-.5 for street and frequent hard cornering or mountain roads,
-1 deg for street, Autocross, and Open Track, this will wear the inner tire tread if you drive a lot of freeways. I use -1.5 deg quite often on cars that we frequently autox and do only a little street driving. you can use even more if tire temps show outside edge of tread is hotter than inside after a track run. If the inner edges of tread show excessive wear, use less neg camber. An autox only car would use -2 to -3 degrees. If you have not done the Guldstrand mod, you can be more agressive with negative camber and increase neg camber by another -.25 to -.5 degrees.
Toe in, 1/16" to 1/8".

Guldstrand recommends the following specs for a "touring car":
Caster: 3 - 4 degrees positive (+) PS = more, manual steer less.
Camber: 1/4 to 1/2 degrees negative (-)
With upper a-arm relocation Camber: 0 degrees
Toe-in: 0 - 1/8 inch

[Rod P]

I have used this on many cars and trucks without issue

Camber- 0.5 to 1 degree negative
Caster- 3-5 degrees positive
Toe- 1/16" to 1/8" toe in

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Thanks guys! That's really helpful!

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

She's aligned and I drove her home. Quite a bit to do yet, and some bugs to work out but getting close.