Can chop saws cut squarely?

[WSSix]

I'm borrowing a DeWalt 871 right now while I work on building my sub frame connectors. It's doing a good job but tends to wonder a bit to the outside as I get towards the bottom of the 2x3x.120 steel I'm cutting. It's not horrible but is noticeable. I'm not forcing the saw down either. I'm just applying pressure and letting the saw do its thing. Am I doing this correctly or is this the best I can hope for with a chop saw?

I'm in the market for one too so any recommendation on brand and model that does cut squarely would be appreciated if it's this saw that's not so great. Some of the reviews I'm reading lead me to believe that's the case but I just wanted to make sure.

I'm using a 14 inch, 7/64 thick friction wheel to do my cutting.

Thanks

[raustinss]

It's all leverage. I bet if it support the whole length of tubing at the same height as the clamping surfaces (vertical and horizontal ) it would cut straight and if not I would question the condition of the bearings and or bushings in the saw

[Sieg]

I never had had much luck getting plum and square cuts with my hot saw. It's a cheap Harbor Freight 14" with a flexi-flyer chassis.

The inexpensive blades aren't very rigid and the ones I had started cutting slower and walking as heat built up, this was on heavier walled 1.25 x 2.5 tubing. I shelved the piece of poo.

My liquid cooled horizontal band saw cuts within 100ths when properly tuned and the small cold saw seems to be very accurate as well.

Maybe try a different blade from an industrial supply house?

[WSSix]

It's all leverage. I bet if it support the whole length of tubing at the same height as the clamping surfaces (vertical and horizontal ) it would cut straight and if not I would question the condition of the bearings and or bushings in the saw

You know, I didn't even think about that being the case. I have the unused section of tubing supported but I have not verified that it's level. What a bone head move on my part. I'll have to do that next time. I might start on the passenger side tomorrow. Man I feel dumb.

Scott, you're right about the horizontal band saws. I loved all the fun equipment I had available to me when I was completing my machining degree. Kind of wish I had gone down that road a little more instead of just doing it for fun.

The friction wheel is a DeWalt unit.


Thanks guys

[GregWeld]

I'm not a fan of that kind of saw except for average car exhaust work... but they do work - and if that's what a guy can afford or all he has room for - then so be it. There are other ways to finish your cuts - if the saw is off and you can't make an accurate cut --- then make your marks and cut long and file finish or something else to get back to your line.

Have to agree with the thought thou that if you're not squared up on the piece then you can't ask the saw to cut straight... or a mill to mill straight....

I have a chop saw that uses a metal saw blade -- I think it's called a Evolution Raptor or something like that -- and that POS will cut fine - but it throws off the nastiest - sharpest - worst ever - all over the damn shop - tailings. I won't use it unless I absolutely have to. But sometimes I have something that just won't let me use the cold cut saw or the band saw --- and I can carry this Raptor thing to somewhere that I can work.

Tell you another thing --- ya better have your work clamped in tight because it will rip it out and throw it HARD!!! Ask me how I know! LOL

[Vince@Meanstreets]

I'm borrowing a DeWalt 871 right now while I work on building my sub frame connectors. It's doing a good job but tends to wonder a bit to the outside as I get towards the bottom of the 2x3x.120 steel I'm cutting. It's not horrible but is noticeable. I'm not forcing the saw down either. I'm just applying pressure and letting the saw do its thing. Am I doing this correctly or is this the best I can hope for with a chop saw?

I'm in the market for one too so any recommendation on brand and model that does cut squarely would be appreciated if it's this saw that's not so great. Some of the reviews I'm reading lead me to believe that's the case but I just wanted to make sure.

I'm using a 14 inch, 7/64 thick friction wheel to do my cutting.

Thanks

Fiber/friction blades suck. If you don't move at the right speed you overheat and harden the cut edge then the blade wanders. Also if you are looking for accuracy its gonna be the quality of the miter table base and how well you set it up.

I have a Raptor and it works great. I have more than 50 cuts on the steel blade, at least 100 cuts on the stainless blade and still going.

The base is decent and I check square on it often.

Gregs right it makes a great drop launcher!

[INXS2]

I sold my Dewalt 871 and bought a Evolution Raptor, cuts much cleaner and straighter then the 871. Very good investment. You do need the metal level, built a stand for the saw and bought a cheap extension to hold the longer length of steel straight.

[DRJDVM's '69]

I have a cheap HF one with the standard blade....it works ok.....you get what you pay for...

Setting it up is key to getting it to work as best as its capable....don't use the angle gauge on the tool, use a real angle finder.....make sure you clamp it in good...and if the larger section hangs off , make sure its supported and perpendicular to the blade .... then cut pretty slow, don't force the blade or it flexes..

It will get you pretty close, but may require a little fine tuning sometimes if you want stuff real precise.

If your issue is at the very end of the cut, it probably because you don't have the piece supported on the long end...once the blade is 90% of the way through that piece is going to have a tendency to pivot up if its not 1000% clamped tight...and the clamps on the cheap saws aren't very good....

[gearheads78]

I usually cut 1/16"-1/8" long with the chop saw and then use the belt sander to finish to cut line. Until I can afford a good saw what I will continue to do.

[craig510]

I have a Ridgid brand with a cast iron table. I checked the head for square vertical before I bought. The degree marks on the table are about .5 degrees off.

If I use Norton brand blades it cuts very square, but you have to support the part quite well.

The blades make a big difference and the Nortons are the only ones I have been happy with.

[WSSix]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll make sure I have the part level and not just supported. Real brain fart moment on my part there. I'll also keep the other models/brands in mind when I go to buy one. I'll keep making do with the DeWalt for now as it's working well enough. I intend to build my own exhaust including headers which is why I was wanting a chop saw. Just want to make sure I get a quality piece that's worth my money.

Craig, are those Norton blades metal or are they friction blades?

[raustinss]

Level should help but, don't forget to keep the material in line with the backstop too.

[craig510]

Thanks for the feedback guys. I'll make sure I have the part level and not just supported. Real brain fart moment on my part there. I'll also keep the other models/brands in mind when I go to buy one. I'll keep making do with the DeWalt for now as it's working well enough. I intend to build my own exhaust including headers which is why I was wanting a chop saw. Just want to make sure I get a quality piece that's worth my money.

Craig, are those Norton blades metal or are they friction blades?

The ones I used are fiction blades with abrasive on the sides. I was just checking on Nortons site, and it looks like they changed the names. It looks like they now call it rapid cut. I'll check for an old wheel tomorrow and see if they have a cross reference number.

[craig510]

http://www.northerntool.com/shop/tools/product_200332083_200332083

These are the ones I have had the best luck with. Not saying there aren't better ones out there, but these work well. I've gone through about 4 of them cutting axle tubes, exhaust, plate and tubing, they do wear fast, so get a couple.

[WSSix]

Thanks Craig.

Ryan, I double checked everything with a square and line of sight before cutting. I don't trust the guides or tick marks on the degree curve. Checking level was the only thing I didn't do. Doh!

Thanks guys.