65 Fastback build in Chi-Town

[riles]

Hey all,
Been following this site for some time and finally signed up about a month ago. Started with a pretty solid 65 FB that I had found in my own back yard, after a 5 year and about 7 different states search.
I originally started with just upgrading the front suspension with TCP products, and trying to figure out how to get bigger tires without any fabrication to the car. After realizing the biggest tires I'd get were 225 up front and 245 rear, I stepped up and nixed the idea of keeping things original.
Enter DSE minitubs.
Al VerShave from AVS fabrications did the install and did an awesome job. I like the DSE tubs because they look so much like an original install. He installed the supplied frame rails , but did not use the 'tabs' that came with the kit, since they looked kinda tacky and they'd be in the way of the 3 link setup from Street or Track.
Now ready to post some pics of the build.

[riles]

We also took care of some spot rust issues in trunk area, replacing the trunk drop panels and the tank support area.

Next up is the front torque box. Since 65 Mustangs did not come with a front torque box, we used the 2 piece torque boxes from 67-68 and purchased from CJ Pony. These were nice heavy gauge parts, but did require some fabricating.

[DOOM]

Looks awesome! Where you at in Chicago?

[riles]

I'm in the S/W suburbs, Orland area.
And thanks for the reply. I've been watching your build for some time now and in awe at the quality of it's build.

[riles]

Drive train consists of a sbf mated to a Viper T-56 and moved the engine back about 2-3". Had to cut the trans tunnel for clearance and fabricate trans mount.

[DOOM]

I'm in the S/W suburbs, Orland area.
And thanks for the reply. I've been watching your build for some time now and in awe at the quality of it's build.
Well thats where I live!

[riles]

Small world, hope to run into you sometime.

[CNDbowtie]

what made you choose the street and track 3 link over the TCP rear? I installed the street and track front coilover last summer and debating what rear to use...his rear is a few hundred more then TCP`s with the billet arms....but I would like to keep bilsteins on all 4 corners.

[65 347]

Tim
Small world, stang is looking good.
Al is an artist, I had him do some aluminum welding on my valve covers.
Glad to see you on here, See you around.
Mike

[windycitychev]

pretty awesome build, I am just about finished with my 68 Chevelle SS Pro-Touring and in the mixed of finishing it up, I picked up a 67 Fastback which at the moment getting the front end done new torque boxes and all. I wont be going into a full build because I want to enjoy the Chevelle for now but is going to be stock. Keep the pics coming and I am looking for someone to eventually do my sheet metal fab, I am wondering what are the rates of your place or BBT fabrication

[riles]

Here's his web site. Give him a call, his name is Al and he's a very personable guy. Unbelievably talented at such a young age.

http://www.avs-fabrication.com/

If you want more pics, go to his facebook page and look at some of the work he's done. Check out the sheet metal and suspension work on his 53 chevy. He's located in Tinley Park.

BTW, very nice Chevelle.

[riles]

what made you choose the street and track 3 link over the TCP rear? I installed the street and track front coilover last summer and debating what rear to use...his rear is a few hundred more then TCP`s with the billet arms....but I would like to keep bilsteins on all 4 corners.

I had looked at just about every coilover system there is and thought the Street or Track 3 link fit my build the best, plus Shawn is a good guy to work with. I did not think the TCP 4-link, was right for my setup, was worried about bind. The SoT had to be fabbed to fit my build, but overall a good product. I'll post some pics of the SoT 3 link install soon.
I'm working with Dave at "Pro-touring F-bodies (Gen II)", for the front suspension work. Can't give out too much info, but it's a one-off at this time.

[waynieZ]

Nice project. I like how you did the trans tunnel, it came out nice.

[riles]

Thanks Wayne. I've been watching your build and can sympathize with you, tore my shoulder too and put a halt to the projects. Hopefully it's all in the past and I can keep moving forward on the car................. that's if the funds don't run out.

[CNDbowtie]

I had looked at just about every coilover system there is and thought the Street or Track 3 link fit my build the best, plus Shawn is a good guy to work with. I did not think the TCP 4-link, was right for my setup, was worried about bind. The SoT had to be fabbed to fit my build, but overall a good product. I'll post some pics of the SoT 3 link install soon.
I'm working with Dave at "Pro-touring F-bodies (Gen II)", for the front suspension work. Can't give out too much info, but it's a one-off at this time.

so the the 3 link comes with the Watts link package? curious to see more...can you give me a idea how many man hours it would take to install for a shop? Yes Shaun is a nice guy spoke with him a few times on my front end buy.

[FETorino]

Drive train consists of a sbf mated to a Viper T-56 and moved the engine back about 2-3". Had to cut the trans tunnel for clearance and fabricate trans mount.


I'm working with Dave at "Pro-touring F-bodies (Gen II)", for the front suspension work. Can't give out too much info, but it's a one-off at this time.

Cool project:thumbsup:

How about some more details on your SBF :poke:

It will be interesting to see what you come up with for the front suspension.

welcome.

:cheers:

[tubbed69]

Very nice work so far,tubs,trans tunnel and all the metal work looks great,maybe my next build:thumbsup: :thumbsup:

[GregWeld]

Gotta watch a nice '65 Fastback build!


Let's hear more of the plans Riles... Please... :D

[riles]

CNDbowtie, the SoT 3 link did come with the watts link. Had to due some fabricating to shorten it since I lowered the car and tubbed it. Still working on the 3 link setup to fit. The SoT 3-link is designed for a factory car with factory ride height, which I feel sits too high.


Worked on the frame rails and cross bracing. The tubing for frame rail tie-ins are run through original frame to the torque box and then plug weld inside the frame. (I don't think you can see the plug welds in the pics).

[riles]

Just noticed. The first photo is the front mount for the trailing arm and is just tack weld for now. It'll be tied into the frame rails.

FETorino, I'm going with a 331 built by Borowski racing engines, here in Joliet. Looking at approx. 460hp, with the Holley terminator EFI. The trans is from D&D Motorsports.

[riles]

One more pic of frame rails.
I'll post pictures of the beautiful roll cage AVS Fabrications did, later tonite.

[riles]

Gregweld,
I am hoping to build a car I can use on the street, a corner carver at open track and Auto-X events, and the occasional strip. It originally started as a car that I just wanted to improve the handling from original, but snowballed.


Here's the 8pt roll bar (1.75" chromoly) . I didn't want too much interference getting in/out of the car, but still not lose side impact protection and pass inspection at the track, if needed. I am extremely happy with the fit and detail, I believe Al at AVS did a fantastic job!
Second from last photo shows where the "NHRA" required(?)down bar ties into the frame rail connector.

[GregWeld]

Turned out great Riles!!


I like the side impact --- which should let you enter and exit without a huge hassle.

The side bar in my Mustang is just enough interference that I have to slide over it... But I feel safe so that's what counts.

Your chassis is going to be really nice and stiff! Awesome!

[coolwelder62]

Very Nice.

[GregWeld]

Here you can see how much higher my bar is than yours. It's just enough that you have to kind of slide over and drop into the seat.





http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/65%20Mustang%20Track%20car/IMG_1515.jpg (http://s919.photobucket.com/user/gregweld/media/65%20Mustang%20Track%20car/IMG_1515.jpg.html)

[riles]

If my car was not going to be a street car, it probably would be just like yours.

:thankyou: for the positive remarks.

[riles]

Installed the Street or Track 3 link, which needed a lot of modifications due to the DSE wheel tubs and lowering the car about 3". Had to cut the floor above the 3rd member in order to clear the center link. Also had to cut and box the frame to clear the trailing arms that were mounted inboard.

[riles]

Few more with the fabbed 'tunnel box'.

[CNDbowtie]

is it possible you have a pic with the wheels on? I am curious on what a 3inch drop looks like compared to mine. I want to use this 3 link but not crazy about cutting up the back trunk to get it to sit right. Right now my 67 sits with the back tires just slightly tucked under the fender well.

[riles]

Don't know if this will help, this pic is about where the tire will sit (maybe .5" higher). It's obviously not the wheels I am using, but were used to get an idea where they will sit, during the mock up stage. I don't have my wheels or tires yet. The kit works with the original ride height, if you lower it, you will more than likely have to cut. SoT actually makes their own version of that box above the 3rd member.

[riles]

Just dbl. checked my measurements and its closer to 2.5" lower than stock. I currently have 14" wheels on the car just for rollers, so will not show how it will actually sit.

[CNDbowtie]

Just dbl. checked my measurements and its closer to 2.5" lower than stock. I currently have 14" wheels on the car just for rollers, so will not show how it will actually sit.

how much room do you figure you need between the top of the 3rd link and the trunk floor for full movement of the suspension? I am not crazy about cutting the floor on mine...trying to visualize if the rear seats would still work and the cut out would just be behind that hole on a 67 fastback.

[riles]

It would be pretty close. Like I said , if you're going anything less than stock height, you will probably have to notch the trunk. I didn't know this when I originally got the 3link, Shaun , from SoT said , I should not have to do it on a 65-66 and it's more likely on the later models, but my argument was they are the same floor pan (and I didn't think lowering it 2.5" was drastic). I saw 67-68's that had it done , but were still able to get the seat in the car and use the trunk access panel.
I was not originally pleased that we had to cut the floor , but I was pretty sure I was not going to use a back seat with the DSE wheel tubs taking up some area, too much mods for the fold down seat. So it wasn't so bad after all said and done.

[CNDbowtie]

It would be pretty close. Like I said , if you're going anything less than stock height, you will probably have to notch the trunk. I didn't know this when I originally got the 3link, Shaun , from SoT said , I should not have to do it on a 65-66 and it's more likely on the later models, but my argument was they are the same floor pan (and I didn't think lowering it 2.5" was drastic). I saw 67-68's that had it done , but were still able to get the seat in the car and use the trunk access panel.
I was not originally pleased that we had to cut the floor , but I was pretty sure I was not going to use a back seat with the DSE wheel tubs taking up some area, too much mods for the fold down seat. So it wasn't so bad after all said and done.

yes I had even asked Shaun about this...he said the notch out was for 69-70 models. My rear tires have no wheel gap...not tucked but no gap...so i have no idea how much lower that is then stock (my guess is at least a 1 inch).

What would be you 2nd choice after this 3 link? Chassis works 4 link or Ride techs 4 link are both hundreds cheaper then the this 3 link...but I am sold on the Bilstein after running a summer on the front coil-overs.

[riles]

Ride tech is very nice and was one of my choices. I thought the SoT 3 link fit the bill better because I had thought to do something similar with the help of Dave from GenII, but decided it would be cheaper in cost after all the r&d work that was needed. In the long run after all the fabs we had to do, it was probably close to breaking even (small savings), if I had done my own, but I am happy with it.

[riles]

Haven't had time to do much, other than get my motor back from Borowski racing and work on a little plumbing for the brakes and fuel.
Did pick up my new drive shaft and can't believe how beautiful it is. Don't know whether to put it on the car or the wall. Had to share.

[cpd004]

That looks awesome! I'm in Chicago as well.

[riles]

That looks awesome! I'm in Chicago as well.

Thanks.
SW subs for me. Moved from city 1st chance I had.
Are you in 004 , my brother was there, tens years back?

[cpd004]

Thanks.
SW subs for me. Moved from city 1st chance I had.
Are you in 004 , my brother was there, tens years back?


I am. I've been here a long time.

[waynieZ]

It looks awesome . I don't know if you already posted, who made the drive shaft?

[riles]

It looks awesome . I don't know if you already posted, who made the drive shaft?

Strange built. 3"chromoly with 1350 joints. Paint is by Dave VerSchave.