My new shop

[Stielow]

OK guys I usually don't ask for help but I'm at a loss on my new car shop on what to do with the floor. My last shop had U-Coat it floor paint and it lasted about a year then started to pull up.

My shop is 45 by 45 and I'm finishing half of it so 45 X 23 approx. It is 10 year of concrete in great shape 6 inches thick.

So do I:


Epoxy coat myself
Hire a guy to do the Epoxy coat
Tile
Stain
Seal coat
Leave it raw

I want it nice but I don't want to kill my budget.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

My .02 is that I'd love to have some sort of tile. It's a pain always having to worry about fluid spills and soaking them up so they don't stain the floor. Tiles just clean up so easily and they look great. I'm sure epoxy is similar in respect to clean up but the nice thing about tiles is that if you break one you can just replace it instead of having to fill that chip in your floor caused by a large falling metal object. :secret:

So, my vote is for some sort of tile and to get enough extras that you can replace anything that get's damaged in the future.

[gray776]

Well I did my garage with the rustoleum 2 part epoxy. It looks very nice and holds up well to most things, except for welding, etc. It certainly hasn't had a problem with adhesion. I like the look and certainly fits the budget as well as easily can be recoated.

I had a friend do a commercial epoxy floor, and while it was maybe slightly stronger, they had to redo it a few times because it never matched(gloss/color/etc) and still doesn't. It wasn't cheap.

I don't have any experience with anything else other than raw, which I certainly wouldn't do.

BTW, I introduced myself at B-J over the weekend, but you were busy with the Z28. Enjoy watching your builds.

Jason

[SSLance]

My two choices would be to leave it raw or have a reputable commercial company epoxy coat it. You'll just be disappointed in any of the other choices, especially if you use the shop for anything other than just parking in.

[Ketzer]

My opinion, only a clean assembly area or parking only area would be epoxied. Done by a pro with a warranty. I've tried several DIY products and unless you really baby them, they don't last. Once they get a gouge or two, they are shot and you are disgusted.

An area for actually building, grinding, welding, moving jacks and stands around a lot, would be bare concrete or maybe just a clear sealer like I did in my shop. (works great, touches up easy)



Jeff-

[Sieg]

Mark - After 36+ years in the flooring business and knowing how you USE a shop I'd leave it natural.

If you want to keep it looking nice with all the money you'll save on applying a formal finish go out and buy a 17" commercial polisher/buffer, scotchbrite pads, floor squeegee, and a ph neutral cleaner. Deep clean it once or twice a year and in between you can damp mop and spray buff it with a low build sealer/polish.

Find a good janitorial supply house in your area and go talk with them about equipment and products.

Just damp mopping and spray buffing with the buffer will result in a clean looking floor with a nice natural patina.

With any formal finish I've seen (residential & commercial) you'll have staining, chipping, scratching, lifting due to contamination or moisture, and burning from welding. In your case you have an existing slab and contamination, likely no company with experience will warranty the coating......maybe if the acid wash and bead-blast it first. They look nice but for how long and how much effort.

Besides I've never paid attention to the floors in your pictures and I was in the business. :D

Here's a site for quick online reference (No experience with them) http://www.globalindustrial.com/g/janitorial-maintenance/floor-care/cleaners/global-floor-machine?ref=cat/b/GlobalFloorMachines

[Revved]

I left mine bare because I've worked in enough shops were it was painted and it never lasts and would drive my OCD crazy! My wife has tried to talk me into it so many times. When I had the foundation poured I had them smooth it but not polish it so it doesn't get slick when wet. Yes, you will see stains....I'm good about cleaning things up as soon as they happen but it is a working shop.

Going back to the working shop theory I would also not do tile. It will become an issue rolling anything on a jack. Jack wheels will mar it and leave marks. Anything will small wheels (Engine dolly, roller stool, creeper) will catch in the grooves and if not bend wheels it will just be an annoyance.

Does anyone know how flooring like Racedeck holds up to the pressure of floor jacks or tranny jacks with weight on them?

[Motime]

I stained mine. It's inexpensive and easy to install. Most fluid spills clean right up. It does not stand up to brake fluid and other caustic chemicals though.

[Vegas69]

My buddy was telling me about some snap together type garage tiles. I have no experience with them but here's an example.
http://www.greatmats.com/garage-flooring.php

[GregWeld]

I'd stain it.....

The only area I'd ever paint would be if I had a museum.... I've yet to see one that holds up, commercially applied or otherwise. The Audi dealer just built a new building with an incredible service area... they tiled the whole thing.

I wouldn't do that either because of the way I use my floors. The floor can be a lay out area -- it might be jackstands -- or the lift -- I spill oil -- I weld on it... Mine is raw. The only thing I wished I had done was to seal it when it was still brand new.

[Sieg]

The only thing I wished I had done was to seal it when it was still brand new.
Key words right there........sadly it applies to staining as well. Staining can go sideways too depending on slab moisture content, hydro-static pressure, and the sealer used.

[Rick D]

When we built our new shop that I worked for many years ago, we had the floor epoxied. The contracter did it and they used a product from Shewin Williams.

Couple of things, first this was a collision shop and the floor was new as in just poured. They let it sit for a month or two if I remember correctly. After the the epoxy was applied it had to sit for something like a week to dry properly.

About a month later we had one of the new frame racks brought in and when they unloaded it it hit the floor hard and made a sound like it was just digging up the epoxy. After it was in place we looked and nothing it was perfect just a little maring but that's it!

This was back in 1994, as of a few weeks ago when I stop by to say hi there is still NOT a singal spot that has chipped or peeled up NOTHING NOTTA!!!

I do not remember what product it was but if you contact your local Shewin commercial store and ask them? Just my .02

[GregWeld]

Key words right there........sadly it applies to staining as well. Staining can go sideways too depending on slab moisture content, hydro-static pressure, and the sealer used.





Boy are you a downer.....



HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA

[jy211]

http://allgaragefloors.com/metallic-garage-floor-epoxy/

:bitchslap:

[Sieg]

Boy are you a downer.....

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA
Come over and look at my neighbors stained slab.......just being real.

It was done by a local who's been in the business over 30 years, was new construction, 3 redo's and it still looks crappy.

The other neighbor has a grey epoxy coating applied after 7-8 years, looked great for 2 months! But now the first impression is it needs to be mopped and touched up.

Just being real, I'm not as much of a downer as having to live with a surface that disappoints you every time you turn on the lights in the shop. :D

[Che70velle]

I coated mine with a product I bought at a local home improvement warehouse, when I built my shop 14 years ago, and it started peeling after hard use. Today you can't even tell that I ever applied the product. Once the peeling started, it all eventually came up.
But there is something to be said about a coating, simply in the way it brightens up the shop. I've been in some high end race shops, and your first thought is always how bright the actual work area around the cars is. Being an electrician, I naturally check out overhead lighting, but they really never go overboard with lighting. It's about light reflection, and how well you use the area around you to help with lighting. You'll always see the walls painted a bright color, as well as a nicely coated floor. I'm not trying to compare our home shops to a cup shop here, just talking about how a nicely done area improves overall brightness with average lighting.
Next time your in your local home improvement warehouse, check out the polished concrete floors. Even something as simple as this creates a gloss that greatly improves lighting everywhere. I'm considering this route with my next shop build.

[RDuke]

As you already know stay away from DIY epoxy kits.

Here's some help from a lot of research I've done through experience and the forum on garagejournal.com

Option 1: Tile. This is how I'm planning on going with my 40x30 shop. A good ceramic or porcelain tile in large sizes with small joints. Use epoxy grout to help fight the oil and grease.

Pros: Looks good, extremely durable against impacts, welding, etc. Easy clean. If a tile is ever damaged you can replace a single tile.
Cons: Can be slick depending on the texture tile you get. Proper mortar bed and instillation is critical to get no air pockets under the tiles.


Option 2: Pro installed 100% epoxy solids epoxy. You have to get the good stuff and you have to get it pro-installed with warranty.

Pros: Looks good, easy clean up, impact resistant.
Cons: Will not hold up to welding and grinding. Heat will cause damage. Once there is damage it's basically done and extremely hard to repair without grinding up and starting over.


Option 3: Plastic flooring (Racedeck, ect).

Pros: Quick install, looks good, easily replace a damaged piece.
Cons: Cleaning is a pain. You'll always have debris under the tiles and dust that has fallen through. It won't hold up well to welding and grinding as it will damage like epoxy.


Option 4: Stain.

Pros: Looks good, it's basically like your normal unfinished concrete but looks a little better.
Cons: Usually has to be done with a fresh slab. Old stains and damage make it a challenge to stain over.


Option 5: Concrete unfinished.

Pros: Cheap, doesn't stress you out when you damage or spill something on it because it's just the shop floor.
Cons: ugly


Good luck with your project and please post finished pictures with whatever you decide.

[clill]

Get a guy with a diamond polisher and polish the bare concrete.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

If you are going to coat it go with a pro with a warranty. They use the good stuff. Kelly Moore and Sherman williams is good stuff. In the long run it will be cost effective.

We did our shop for $4500 and they took 2 days, it was dry in 4 days. 78 degree high humidity helped that.

[mitch_04]

Garage Forums has a flooring section with a huge amount of information. Race Deck seems to be the best for a used-hard shop, but is very expensive. Epoxy seems to matter most on the condition of the concrete, tons of prep and a quality product go a long way.

[DRJDVM's '69]

Another factor to consider is once its coated, how anal are you going to be about it looking perfect for the rest of its life?

I did a Home Depot DIY kit and it looked awesome for a year or so....it has some peeling and stains that wont come off now, but overall I'm still happy. I did it in white and it made a HUGE improvement in the overall brightness of the shop.....

Its doesn't look perfect anymore but its way better than a standard concrete slab

If you are going to be anal about it staying perfect forever...good luck....none of them will

Think of it like a car paint job.... get something decent and don't worry when it get rock chips and scratches in it when you beat the snot out of the car....or spend a fortune and worry about every last bug that hits the paint and lose sleep over a couple of rock chips.... your choice....

[jy211]

Garage Forums has a flooring section with a huge amount of information. Race Deck seems to be the best for a used-hard shop, but is very expensive. Epoxy seems to matter most on the condition of the concrete, tons of prep and a quality product go a long way.

You will have more people over there to just tell you to use the search function to look for what you want...I'll save you the post! :stirthepot:

[Che70velle]

I have a good friend that is a dealer for the race deck stuff. He did his garage with it, and it looks great, but you can forget about rolling an engine hoist over it. The wheels sink in, and your stuck. The stuff is too soft.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

I have a good friend that is a dealer for the race deck stuff. He did his garage with it, and it looks great, but you can forget about rolling an engine hoist over it. The wheels sink in, and your stuck. The stuff is too soft.

Plus it's a pain to keep clean. Oil, fluids and dirt gets trapped in it.

[rwhite692]

I have Armstrong "Imperial Texture" VCT tile (The name is odd since it has no texture) in my 24x36 shop. It's been down for about 4 years now, I'm quite happy with it. Occasionally gets a weld burn on it but since the color runs through the whole 1/8" thickness, you can take a razor blade to it and scrape it off. It's pretty damn durable, more than I had expected (note how well it holds up to pallet jacks, etc next time you are at your local supermarket.) And it was very cheap, and easy to repair if I ever decide I want to replace any tiles. The pics shown are right after I put it down, I have not done anything to maintain it since, other than to mop once in a while, and it still looks pretty decent, after four years of complete neglect. I think I will move stuff around one of these days and give it a buff and polish, seeing these pics again reminds me of how nice VCT can look, when it's treated well, LOL.

I just couldn't see spending $3k on a high end 100% solids epoxy process like Wolverine, which is about the only type of epoxy system I'd go with, if I were to do epoxy. I think that the concrete polishing/staining/sealing process is another nice option. -Rob

[MoparCar]

What did you have to do at the concrete joints? Did they have to be filled prior to the VCT?

[Revved]

I have Armstrong "Imperial Texture" VCT tile (The name is odd since it has no texture) in my 24x36 shop. It's been down for about 4 years now, I'm quite happy with it. Occasionally gets a weld burn on it but since the color runs through the whole 1/8" thickness, you can take a razor blade to it and scrape it off. It's pretty damn durable, more than I had expected (note how well it holds up to pallet jacks, etc next time you are at your local supermarket.) And it was very cheap, and easy to repair if I ever decide I want to replace any tiles. The pics shown are right after I put it down, I have not done anything to maintain it since, other than to mop once in a while, and it still looks pretty decent, after four years of complete neglect. I think I will move stuff around one of these days and give it a buff and polish, seeing these pics again reminds me of how nice VCT can look, when it's treated well, LOL.

I just couldn't see spending $3k on a high end 100% solids epoxy process like Wolverine, which is about the only type of epoxy system I'd go with, if I were to do epoxy. I think that the concrete polishing/staining/sealing process is another nice option. -Rob

That actually looks like it would work very well!

[Vegas69]

I have something very similar to the Armstrong tiles pictured in my detached garage and they are in terrible shape after about 10 years of service.

[Sieg]

I have something very similar to the Armstrong tiles pictured in my detached garage and they are in terrible shape after about 10 years of service.
Chisel it off, spray adhesive remover, scrape with a razor scraper, clean again, rinse, burnish with aggressive pad, apply sealer and polish. It's as much fun as removing Dynamat. :D

[rwhite692]

I think that most problems with VCT come from not sealing it well and then exposing it to moisture, whereby the moisture can intrude at the joints between and get under the tile and attack the adhesive. I definitely wouldn't recommend it for a daily driver type of garage where wet vehicles would be parked on it and expose it to standing water conditions, particularly if it is never maintained. As I mentioned you can see how well it does hold up in some pretty tough environments, when it is properly maintained. I think in terms of performance vs. cost, it is pretty tough to beat. I figure to clean and reseal mine every few years is probably adequate, as I don't obsess over its appearance, etc.

[rwhite692]

What did you have to do at the concrete joints? Did they have to be filled prior to the VCT?

I troweled the (1/8" saw cut) joints flush with an elastomeric type concrete seam sealer product (which I can't recall the specifics of, right now)...I was pleasantly surprised to have had ZERO "telegraphing" of the saw joint lines through the VCT tiles, which I was prepared to accept, if it did happen.

[Sieg]

I troweled the (1/8" saw cut) joints flush with an elastomeric type concrete seam sealer product (which I can't recall the specifics of, right now)...I was pleasantly surprised to have had ZERO "telegraphing" of the saw joint lines through the VCT tiles, which I was prepared to accept, if it did happen.

I've heard Bondo does a good job as well.

[Jay Hilliard]

I used Sherwin Williams grey epoxy. I did mine in 2008 and no peeling so far. I did not use a top coat clear. If I want it looking new again, I can scuff the floor with a buffer and recoat.

If you want, I will dig up the exact part number.

[SuperB70]

For an old floor I cant say but when you guys are pooring new, check BASF product call'd Mastertop, in US it's Mastertop® Anvil-Top®300

Check it out, by far best thing you can put in your new floor.

In Europe its been widelly used in any kind of factorys, parking garages, shopping malls and so on. Any floor that has to stand for hard use. You can stained if you want.

Made my garage 7 years ago and still looks like new. No bad thing to say. It even prevent oil and other liquid s absorbing into to congrete.

[Rybar]

Just happened upon this thread and would like to offer my suggestion, I had a local company install this finish in my garage:

http://www.parkplacegarage.net/garage-flooring.html

Apparently it is called: polyaspartic polyurea garage flooring

I am not sure of the construction but the stuff looks unbelievable and is exactly as advertised. Its tough and does not leave tire marks from hot tires. Super easy to clean as well and does not stain.

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Rybar/Garage%20project%202013/DSC_0643_zps21280762.jpg

http://i34.photobucket.com/albums/d125/Rybar/Garage%20project%202013/DSC_0637_zps934c1404.jpg

[raustinss]

Hey Mark
First off...thank you. I have forever been influenced by your builds and attention to detail. Second I can't provide any great I found for finishing your floor but what I can do is suggest you check out www.garagescapes.ca they are spectacular cabinets and come in many colors,top quality drawer sliders and hardware. Email them and they can give you all the info you will need regarding sizes,options.colors, construction etc. If you do decide. To check them out please mention my name...I work for them..could help with price lol
Ryan Austin

[Solid LT1]

Well I did my garage with the rustoleum 2 part epoxy. It looks very nice and holds up well to most things, except for welding, etc. It certainly hasn't had a problem with adhesion. I like the look and certainly fits the budget as well as easily can be recoated.

I had a friend do a commercial epoxy floor, and while it was maybe slightly stronger, they had to redo it a few times because it never matched(gloss/color/etc) and still doesn't. It wasn't cheap.

I don't have any experience with anything else other than raw, which I certainly wouldn't do.

BTW, I introduced myself at B-J over the weekend, but you were busy with the Z28. Enjoy watching your builds.

Jason

I agree I did self applied grey Rustoleum 2part epoxy from WW Graingers supply and it's pretty bulletproof if the concrete is properly prepped. I even had a brake master cylinder leak brake fluid on it which was undetected for about 2 weeks and it didn't hurt the coating on the floor.

[RDuke]

Any pictures? I've read the product sheets online and it sounds interesting.

For an old floor I cant say but when you guys are pooring new, check BASF product call'd Mastertop, in US it's Mastertop® Anvil-Top®300

Check it out, by far best thing you can put in your new floor.

In Europe its been widelly used in any kind of factorys, parking garages, shopping malls and so on. Any floor that has to stand for hard use. You can stained if you want.

Made my garage 7 years ago and still looks like new. No bad thing to say. It even prevent oil and other liquid s absorbing into to congrete.

[SuperB70]

I can take & post some tomorrow, its almost midnight here already.

It hard to add too the poor. I did myself and coupple of my coworkers.

We didnt have "helicopter" so we did it oldscool way, by handtools.