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gerno
01-11-2014, 11:16 PM
I found a complete 2010 LS3 out of a Camaro with ~30K miles. It has all accys, wiring, intake, etc except the computer and pedal. It also comes with the full TR6060 trans and has a Lethal Injection cam installed already. From dyno tunes I see on the web it seems to put out ~480hp to the wheel with the combo.

Guy wants $5k for all of it. There's nothing "wrong" with my SBC but seems like a good deal since I wanted more power for my car anyways.

Any thoughts on if this is a good deal? Anyone have any feedback of how difficult or costly the pedal and computer will be?

takid455
01-11-2014, 11:26 PM
Being most want 10k for that setup, I'd say jump on it.

gerno
01-11-2014, 11:33 PM
That's what I'm thinking...... and I thought my budget was blown before.....

Rybar
01-12-2014, 12:06 AM
Yup your getting a pretty crazy deal there.

tubbed69
01-12-2014, 01:37 AM
I will have a new pedal extra in the next few days if you need it,just let me know,check with SMC Performance on computer or anything else he is very knowledgable on this and has everything in stock.

Dave95z28
01-12-2014, 08:39 AM
Definitely a great deal. If you chose not to buy it, pm the information and I will.

Dave

MarkM66
01-12-2014, 09:33 AM
Almost seems to good to be true. As said, going rate is about $10k.

Why has it been removed?

I'd be concerned that it's been "tinkered" with.

gerno
01-12-2014, 09:59 AM
I agree it seems almost too good to be true but I'm going to take a look at it later this week. Guy says he just needs money and has to let it go. The lack of computer concerns me a bit since it was pulled as a complete assembly. Kinda makes me wonder if it was stolen. Is there any way to check the VIN off the engine?

gerno
01-12-2014, 11:25 AM
I've been checking around but can't find a clear answer. I currently have a close ratio T56 Mag behind my SBC. If I get the LS3 can I swap the T56 Mag directly in place of the 6060?

jwcarguy
01-12-2014, 01:51 PM
I agree it seems almost too good to be true but I'm going to take a look at it later this week. Guy says he just needs money and has to let it go. The lack of computer concerns me a bit since it was pulled as a complete assembly. Kinda makes me wonder if it was stolen. Is there any way to check the VIN off the engine?

the derivative VIN is located on the drivers side on the block, just behind the head

jwcarguy
01-12-2014, 01:53 PM
I've been checking around but can't find a clear answer. I currently have a close ratio T56 Mag behind my SBC. If I get the LS3 can I swap the T56 Mag directly in place of the 6060?


You may want to verify with one of the vendors here, but I believe that the input shaft and bellhousing will need to be changed
you didn't say if you are mechanical or hydraulic clutch setup either??

glassman
01-12-2014, 02:23 PM
I've been checking around but can't find a clear answer. I currently have a close ratio T56 Mag behind my SBC. If I get the LS3 can I swap the T56 Mag directly in place of the 6060?

Steve, I had a T56 Mag behind my SBC and I used a Rockland Auto LT1/LS1 conversion kit (do a google, it will take you to the magizine article and thats how i found the company). Pretty much input shaft difference, but you will need bellhousing, clutch, pplate, mcylinder etc.....

I am not regretting for a second my switch to LS power, my swap had issues and took three months longer than it was supposed to, but way way worth it...

Let me know if you have any questions.. Also will take your car into the 40 to 50k territory with all you've done too it....

MIke

carbuff
01-12-2014, 04:09 PM
If the purchase and swap would stretch the budget, but you feel it's still a good deal, get it and hold it. You could always sell the transmission if you only want the engine, recoup some of the cost and apply those funds towards what you'll need to mate the Magnum to the LS3.

It's possible the seller needed the ECU for whatever he's replacing the LS3 with?

Lots of questions for sure, but it sounds like you may have found a good deal if it's legit. Just remember you don't HAVE to swap it immediately. But if you decide to, I have an engine lift if you need to borrow it. ;)

gerno
01-12-2014, 09:28 PM
the derivative VIN is located on the drivers side on the block, just behind the head

Thanks for the info. I'll have the guy shoot a photo of the code on the block so I can check it out

You may want to verify with one of the vendors here, but I believe that the input shaft and bellhousing will need to be changed
you didn't say if you are mechanical or hydraulic clutch setup either??

I'll call up Hurst or American Powertrain tomorrow to see what they say.

Steve, I had a T56 Mag behind my SBC and I used a Rockland Auto LT1/LS1 conversion kit (do a google, it will take you to the magizine article and thats how i found the company). Pretty much input shaft difference, but you will need bellhousing, clutch, pplate, mcylinder etc.....

I am not regretting for a second my switch to LS power, my swap had issues and took three months longer than it was supposed to, but way way worth it...

Let me know if you have any questions.. Also will take your car into the 40 to 50k territory with all you've done too it....

MIke

Not what i needed to hear... now I want it more..

Think I would have to do some more cosmetic work to the car to get the 40-50K range but crazy to think it's getting up there. I still think of it as a 10K driver and track car.

If the purchase and swap would stretch the budget, but you feel it's still a good deal, get it and hold it. You could always sell the transmission if you only want the engine, recoup some of the cost and apply those funds towards what you'll need to mate the Magnum to the LS3.

It's possible the seller needed the ECU for whatever he's replacing the LS3 with?

Lots of questions for sure, but it sounds like you may have found a good deal if it's legit. Just remember you don't HAVE to swap it immediately. But if you decide to, I have an engine lift if you need to borrow it. ;)

Exactly what I'm thinking to do. I need to get this beast back on the track and tune the suspension first. If I get the engine I'll throw it in my trailer so it's out of the way. Maybe in March I'll work the swap. I'm also talking to the guy to see if I can get it without the trans and bell housing for ~$3500 including the clutch and slave. this way I have all the smaller parts that eat up the budget.

He mentioned something about his buddy using the ECM but its hard to say. Thinking of ECM, I sent an email over to Lethal asking if they could provide an ECM with a preloaded tune so I could plug and play.

gerno
01-13-2014, 11:42 PM
Seller sent some pics of the engine over today. He also said he's sell the engine minus trans and bell housing but letting me keep the flywheel, clutch and slave cylinder for $4200. I'm thinking to push him for $3500 unless someone here is interested in the trans and bell housing..


44744

44745

44746

44747

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44749

Rybar
01-14-2014, 01:43 AM
Not sure what your waiting for really but I'd have paypaled the seller days ago. :lol:

jwcarguy
01-14-2014, 12:37 PM
Seller sent some pics of the engine over today. He also said he's sell the engine minus trans and bell housing but letting me keep the flywheel, clutch and slave cylinder for $4200. I'm thinking to push him for $3500 unless someone here is interested in the trans and bell housing..


44744

44745

44746

44747

44748

44749


Just buy the whole package for $5k and sell off the trans! It is worth more than the $800 that he was going to deduct
See if another member wants to "go in with you" on the package and he gets the TR6060??
The longer that you talk about it, the more chances that someone else will swing in and buy it!!

Like Rybar said, you should've paypaled the seller days ago!

gerno
01-14-2014, 02:31 PM
I just text the buyer asking if he'll go $3500 minus trans and Bell. If he doesn't I'll most likely take it all for 5K. The guy is not far from me so I'm trying to meet with him tomorrow. I've been stupid busy with work and already way over my budget so my though is that if the engine deal works out in accordance with my schedule it's meant to be. If not then I'll keep my SBC and simply leave the car as is for a while longer. With the new LT1 stuff coming through I assume the LS stuff will continue to get cheaper.

Rybar
01-14-2014, 06:06 PM
You can always help your budget buy buying the setup and flipping it as I'm sure you could easily.

Che70velle
01-14-2014, 10:04 PM
^^^^^^^^^ this.

You can make money on this deal, NO PROBLEMO!

gerno
01-15-2014, 10:54 AM
Headed out to check out the engine today. Still not sure if I'm going to go for the whole package or just the engine. Most likely just the engine for $4k but will see what happens.

My biggest concern is the ECM and programming. Does anyone have any tips for who to get an E36 ECM from and get it tuned to remove the security features? There is a local guy here but it's looking like ~$700 which is more than I was hoping.

GriffithMetal
01-15-2014, 12:03 PM
Headed out to check out the engine today. Still not sure if I'm going to go for the whole package or just the engine. Most likely just the engine for $4k but will see what happens.

My biggest concern is the ECM and programming. Does anyone have any tips for who to get an E36 ECM from and get it tuned to remove the security features? There is a local guy here but it's looking like ~$700 which is more than I was hoping.

I think you can find standalone programming fairly cheap. An E38 ECM on ebay used with proper program looks like $175. I am assuming it is the E38 ECM.

gerno
01-15-2014, 12:24 PM
I meant E38. Perhaps I'll stop by some time this week to pick you brain and see what projects you're working on

im4u2nvss
01-15-2014, 12:34 PM
Headed out to check out the engine today. Still not sure if I'm going to go for the whole package or just the engine. Most likely just the engine for $4k but will see what happens.

I think you would be ahead if you got the 6060 also for only 1k more. You can get more then that out of it.

gerno
01-15-2014, 12:37 PM
I'm bringing cash to decide when I get there. Seller said he posted the trans seperate for 1500 but hasn't gotten a bite as of yet.

GriffithMetal
01-15-2014, 12:50 PM
I'm bringing cash to decide when I get there. Seller said he posted the trans seperate for 1500 but hasn't gotten a bite as of yet.

The TR6060 trans should be relatively easy to get rid of.
Where is he trying to sell it?

gerno
01-15-2014, 01:10 PM
He needs money and has to many projects he says. He's also in corpus so the market is a bit limited.


Question on a different topic for you. I'm out of C25 to finish my mini tubs. Any welding supply shops you recommend?

GriffithMetal
01-15-2014, 01:15 PM
He needs money and has to many projects he says. He's also in corpus so the market is a bit limited.


Question on a different topic for you. I'm out of C25 to finish my mini tubs. Any welding supply shops you recommend?

I use AirGas. Alamo welding supply I hear is fine too.

gerno
01-15-2014, 01:34 PM
I use AirGas. Alamo welding supply I hear is fine too.

I'll check it out, thanks.

Just called Texas speed about the computer. They said its $225 to unlock a computer and a little more for a baseline tune for the cam. They also said its rare to find a locked computer so reflashing should be easy

gerno
01-15-2014, 07:39 PM
Looks like I need to decide which LS headers and mounts I'm going to run....

Anyone need a TR 6060???

glassman
01-15-2014, 08:34 PM
I just bought the Hooker headers, x member & mounts and Keith at Custom works is installing them BUT the headers are too low imo. Good stuff, but i'm finding out this afternoon....so i'm talking with todd over on nastyz28 trying to sort things out. Its a good kit, but i wanted my headers more than 3 inches of clearance but im at 2.25 right now which is where is was with the dynatech's.

Congrats on the purchase. You wont regret it. I liken it to BBC torque, lightness of a 4cyl, gas mileage of a new car and most of all, power on demand. I got 24mpg on my road trip to Texas, avg. @ 80 mpg im at 2000 rpm with 3:73's and 17'" rims......I cant wait too drive it after the Speedtech stuff and my new steering is in.....

toddoky
01-16-2014, 08:59 AM
I just bought the Hooker headers, x member & mounts and Keith at Custom works is installing them BUT the headers are too low imo. Good stuff, but i'm finding out this afternoon....so i'm talking with todd over on nastyz28 trying to sort things out. Its a good kit, but i wanted my headers more than 3 inches of clearance but im at 2.25 right now which is where is was with the dynatech's.

Congrats on the purchase. You wont regret it. I liken it to BBC torque, lightness of a 4cyl, gas mileage of a new car and most of all, power on demand. I got 24mpg on my road trip to Texas, avg. @ 80 mpg im at 2000 rpm with 3:73's and 17'" rims......I cant wait too drive it after the Speedtech stuff and my new steering is in.....

Hey Mike, I just realized while looking at your photo and comparing it to my prototype file photos that you are running some type of aftermarket subframe treatment in the area under your oil pan and between your front wheels...what is that exactly? I think it could be the source of your ground clearance issue. This photo shows the ground clearance of the Hooker early 2nd-gen LS swap headers and 3" exhaust system when installed on a bone-stock subframe. Realizing this makes me confident we will get things figured out to your liking.

gerno
01-16-2014, 09:27 AM
I just bought the Hooker headers, x member & mounts and Keith at Custom works is installing them BUT the headers are too low imo. Good stuff, but i'm finding out this afternoon....so i'm talking with todd over on nastyz28 trying to sort things out. Its a good kit, but i wanted my headers more than 3 inches of clearance but im at 2.25 right now which is where is was with the dynatech's.

Congrats on the purchase. You wont regret it. I liken it to BBC torque, lightness of a 4cyl, gas mileage of a new car and most of all, power on demand. I got 24mpg on my road trip to Texas, avg. @ 80 mpg im at 2000 rpm with 3:73's and 17'" rims......I cant wait too drive it after the Speedtech stuff and my new steering is in.....

I saw the headers in your pics and it is pretty bad. Engine wise I'm looking forward to the LS and even though I don't "need" it I may dive in and get it done so I can track the car this summer.



Hey Mike, I just realized while looking at your photo and comparing it to my prototype file photos that you are running some type of aftermarket subframe treatment in the area under your oil pan and between your front wheels...what is that exactly? I think it could be the source of your ground clearance issue. This photo shows the ground clearance of the Hooker early 2nd-gen LS swap headers and 3" exhaust system when installed on a bone-stock subframe. Realizing this makes me confident we will get things figured out to your liking.

Hopefully you can help Mike to figure the issue out. I was going to try the new hooker setup as well but the pics have me very nervous and really thinking to go with Kooks instead.

toddoky
01-16-2014, 09:49 AM
I saw the headers in your pics and it is pretty bad. Engine wise I'm looking forward to the LS and even though I don't "need" it I may dive in and get it done so I can track the car this summer.





Hopefully you can help Mike to figure the issue out. I was going to try the new hooker setup as well but the pics have me very nervous and really thinking to go with Kooks instead.

I shared your concerns last night as well when I saw the Mike's photo...that was until I discovered Mike is running a modified subframe for which our components were not designed to fit. If you look at the photo I attached to this thread this morning, you will see the intended fitment and ground clearance on a stock subframe car. I think we'll be able to figure out some method of helping Mike out too, which is a goal of mine. As long as you are running a stock subframe, you will not encounter what Mike has and will have the same ground clearance that is shown in the photo I posted.

gerno
01-16-2014, 10:21 AM
I shared your concerns last night as well when I saw the Mike's photo...that was until I discovered Mike is running a modified subframe for which our components were not designed to fit. If you look at the photo I attached to this thread this morning, you will see the intended fitment and ground clearance on a stock subframe car. I think we'll be able to figure out some method of helping Mike out too, which is a goal of mine. As long as you are running a stock subframe, you will not encounter what Mike has and will have the same ground clearance that is shown in the photo I posted.

I do have 1/2 height body mounts, is that going to be an issue?

toddoky
01-16-2014, 10:33 AM
I do have 1/2 height body mounts, is that going to be an issue?

Looks like I'm still in the middle of figuring out the discrepancy as the installer reported that Mike's subframe is stock. I'm not suspecting the mounts they were sent were incorrect. As far as 1/2 height body mounts, you'll be able to run them but you'll have no more than 1/2" clearance between the collectors and your floor on the headers and you'll have to raise the roof of the crossmember pockets in the floor to accommodate Hooker crossmember if that's what you were going to use.

glassman
01-16-2014, 09:53 PM
Hey Mike, I just realized while looking at your photo and comparing it to my prototype file photos that you are running some type of aftermarket subframe treatment in the area under your oil pan and between your front wheels...what is that exactly? I think it could be the source of your ground clearance issue. This photo shows the ground clearance of the Hooker early 2nd-gen LS swap headers and 3" exhaust system when installed on a bone-stock subframe. Realizing this makes me confident we will get things figured out to your liking.

Todd, the subframe is stock, the upper shock towers have been altered but that has nothing to do with the engine mounts, same with the g-bar welded to the front, the frame and its engine geometry are bone stock.

Sorry to threadjack steve....