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Xplosiv
12-20-2013, 11:43 AM
So My dad, my uncle, my little cousin (15) and I, are about to embark on a build of my uncle's 1964 Mustang Fastback. We're having lunch tommorow to discuss where to start with this thing. The basic idea is a shelby-esque exterior (colors and such undecided) with a modern basic drivetrain, suspension, and brakes. When you guys are getting ready to brainstorm one of these builds how do you go about planning it out? I know I could spend hours on here and google alike, but since so many of you have built multiple cars, do you have any certain advice for a beginner? Ive never done a ground up build, ive always taken complete modern cars and built on what was there. Any pointers would be GREATLY appreciated.

preston
12-20-2013, 01:33 PM
First question -

budget ? time & money ?

Xplosiv
12-20-2013, 02:43 PM
The budget is in discussion, but he has the money to do whatever we ultimately decide to do. As far as time, the four of us tend to have alot of idle time on our hands.

preston
12-20-2013, 03:30 PM
Well, I have spent the last 25 years of this automotive hobby building within the envelope of the vintage Mustang, so I can give you some ideas. My canvas is the '67/68.

But, I am pretty far out there , for example I already erased the paragraph I typed about putting an aftermarket chassis in it. What are you goals, ideas ? Will you track it ? Driver/show car, pro touring type of deal ? Do you want to hold onto the original underbody/floor and have some vintage flavor ?

I would first of all search all the project threads here on mustang just to see what others are doing body wise and such. Need a better idea of what you are envisioning. Look also at the IronWorks , JCG, and Roadster Shop builds of other cars, do those seem really far out there or is that level of build something you are thinking about ?

So first decision is - DSE alum subframe (with vette components) that bolts and welds to the stock frame rails, or aftermarket chassis front to rear, or stick with the original "frame" and do a vintage build with beefed up improved stock parts ?

Because if you ask me without any other input and say 'You have the money" I will say - Roadster Shop chassis with IRS, Ring Bros CF wide body, and twin turbo Coyote motor !

Xplosiv
12-27-2013, 07:39 AM
Well my plans were apparently ALOT larger than his. We had a good sit down talk at christmas dinner and discussed what he wants out of it.


Engine:

Unless the factory 289 is junk, he wants to reuse the factory 289 with a shelby r code spec cam, a little headwork (polish intake ports, enlarge exhaust ports), a good carb, and an upgraded intake with new but basically stock internals.

Transmission:

It has the factory 3 speed auto on the floor. He'd like to upgrade to a 4 speed unit with OD.

Rear End:

9" with around a 3.42 gear (im unfamiliar with ford gearing so bare with me)

Interior:

Factory components updated with modern surfaces, Shelby-esque roll bar w/harness bar, corbeau seats, mid range stereo system, car has factory a/c

Exterior:

OEM Gold color w/ 1 shade off shelby-esque striping, shelby gt350 style hood and front valence, 17x8 american racing torque thrusts in either black or anthracite, bumper exit exhaust tips.

Suspension:

Tubular control arms, polyurethane bushings, bigger sway bars, adjustable shocks, 2" lowering, leaving the leaf springs in the rear

Brake/Steering:

4 wheel power assist 5 lug disc brake swap, car has factory power steering.


Im still in the camp of throwing an EFI 302 in it but he insists he doesnt want the "troubles" of EFI. I really though he was going to go alot more radical with the car but , alas, its not my car so I cant push him to much.

preston
12-27-2013, 01:00 PM
Well that is okay too. I would still encourage him to look at the DSE subframe, the weakest spot on these cars is the handling/steering, especially if you want to drive it and enjoy it like a street car.

"he doesnt want the "troubles" of EFI".

that's kind of funny, I guess there was a point in time when I felt that way too but now it seems the other way around to me. Especially with these new self learning throttle body FI solutions, its a no brainer and can look vintage with an air cleaner on it too, but its easily added later I guess.

Good luck to him on the car, not every build has to be over the top and discard 85% of the original vehicle.

Xplosiv
12-28-2013, 11:46 AM
Yeah Im a huge fan of the EFI camp. Of course im also the only one in my family that jumped on the E85 bandwagon.

Xplosiv
12-31-2013, 07:01 AM
Question for you guys. The drivers door has a pretty considerable dent in it, rather than repairing it we were debating just replacing the door. However it has a VIN plate on it. Is there a legal way to swap that VIN plate over to the new door? Also, ive been told the rivets used to hold the plate on were diff from year to year....does anyone make repro rivets?

GregWeld
12-31-2013, 07:22 AM
Question for you guys. The drivers door has a pretty considerable dent in it, rather than repairing it we were debating just replacing the door. However it has a VIN plate on it. Is there a legal way to swap that VIN plate over to the new door? Also, ive been told the rivets used to hold the plate on were diff from year to year....does anyone make repro rivets?




Unless you're trying to build a 100 point restoration -- just drill the rivets out and rivet it on to the new door with a rivet of your choice. Nobody cares except a judge at a concours event.


You can repair that door several ways if the frame is good. Reskin it. Or a patch panel. Or if it's stretched too badly (dents are really just stretched metal)... then you can get it mostly to shape and shrink it etc. A good body man can fix almost anything. It's just a matter of time/investment.

preston
12-31-2013, 08:41 PM
I recently bought a repro door from NPD for my '67, and it seemed pretty decent fit wise, and was way easier than treating 40 year old internal door rust and multiple repair spots. It fit pretty good but then again 2 days after receiving it I cut in half lengthwise and widened it 2". And then fit the new quarter panel to the door rather than the other way around, but I did mock it up first and it was a nice fit before any work.

If it were me I'd just buy the new door and put my hours elsewhere, but there is nothing like having original Ford parts on a car too, and no repro will ever fit quite as nice without a lot of work too.