[Insert Cool Name Here] '69 Camaro LS1 Project

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Well,
I'm making this build thread to start documenting my project. I've already asked a bunch of questions here: http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=44069
but it's time to start doing something.

I purchased a 1969 RS Camaro a few weeks ago and I'm accumulating parts. Unfortunately, I'm on a pretty tight budget and my wad is mostly spent for the moment.

So far I have in my possession or have ordered:

Engine/Trans/ECM/Harness from a 2004 GTO

Holley 302-2 Oil Pan

Tanks inc tank with sending unit and 400lph Walbro

Manual brake and clutch pedal

Energy Suspension body mount kit

And misc other stuff I needed

I'm going to need some engine mounts and I'm leaning towards the Dirty Dingo sliders but haven't decided. I'm not going to be able to afford headers at the moment and would like to use factory manifolds; however, I would like some mounts that would work with headers in the future which is why I'm thinking the adjustables would be a good idea.

The other major thing I have to decide on soon is the wiring harness. I'm thinking about modifying the stock harness myself but I'll admit that it's a daunting prospect so any help on that would be awesome. Also, any ideas would be great on whether or not it's a good idea just to send out my ECM to have the modifications done or if it's worth it to buy some tuning software myself.

Anyway, here are some pix about as she sits at the moment.


http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/attachment.php4?attachmentid=43376&stc=1&d=1385740584

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/attachment.php4?attachmentid=43377&stc=1&d=1385740584

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/attachment.php4?attachmentid=43378&stc=1&d=1385740584

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/attachment.php4?attachmentid=43379&stc=1&d=1385740584

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/attachment.php4?attachmentid=43380&stc=1&d=1385740584


I already have front discs and don't plan on messing with the suspension or body too much until a year or so from now when I've got enough money saved up again.

[streetbird]

Project worth penny

[windycitychev]

sweet ride what you pay for it if you dont mind me asking

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Project worth penny

Are you implying that it's worth a single penny? :confused18: Haha.

sweet ride what you pay for it if you dont mind me asking

I'll tell you that it was less than 20k but more than 10k. :secret:
The body has some bondo in it and a few rust bubbles in some of the normal spots but is otherwise and overall quite solid including the floor, rockers and trunk. The rear quarters have been replaced as well.

Back to the build.....

Anyone have recommendations on what to delete and what to leave in the PCM? I found someone locally that can take care of my PCM flashing needs.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I received my 302-2 oil pan and my clutch/brake pedal assembly yesterday. I should get some more goodies today.

I wish it would warm up a bit though. I'd be happy with any temperature greater than 20 degrees at this point! I have heat in my shop but its hard to get motivated to go down there and fire up the heater when its 0 degrees.

I'm still researching engine mounts and trying to decide what to do on that front. I did find out that with my GTO engine I can switch to a Corvette style MAF to get some pretty cheap HP. I'm liking that!

[aggie91]

for the engine harness I say do it yourself. There are tons of info on the web on how to do it.

I did the one in my son's truck. I used the info on lt1swap.com. I had Zippy Performance in Las Vagas do the computer tune and delete the VATS and make a few other changes as recommended on lt1swap.com. I was not really hard, just very time consuming. I think all told I have about 12 hours in the finished harness. I could easily do one now in a lot less time. I printed out all the info that pertained to my harness and marked off the items as I went.

I have heard good things about the dirty dingo mounts. I built custom mounts for our swap as we set the motor back as far as we could and built a new firewall.

Good luck! The car looks like a nice place to start.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

for the engine harness I say do it yourself. There are tons of info on the web on how to do it.

I did the one in my son's truck. I used the info on lt1swap.com. I had Zippy Performance in Las Vagas do the computer tune and delete the VATS and make a few other changes as recommended on lt1swap.com. I was not really hard, just very time consuming. I think all told I have about 12 hours in the finished harness. I could easily do one now in a lot less time. I printed out all the info that pertained to my harness and marked off the items as I went.

I have heard good things about the dirty dingo mounts. I built custom mounts for our swap as we set the motor back as far as we could and built a new firewall.

Good luck! The car looks like a nice place to start.

Thanks aggie,

I discovered lt1swap.com a few days ago and grabbed the pinout from this link:
http://www.lt1swap.com/2004gto_pcm_pinouts.htm

It doesn't really go through what to keep, and what to get rid of though it does tell you what you CAN get rid of. I've been looking for a step by step somewhere but everyone who posts info on it or makes a video seems to shortcut past all the stuff I'm curious about. I know how to do one BASICALLY but I need specifics. What if I want to keep the stuff that tells me what gear the transmission is in or what if I want to rig in a clutch sensor so I can safely add remote start later? What about A/C and fans? How do I include a relay/fuse box? Stuff like that.

I found a local guy to remove VATS for me just like you did but haven't found anyone to help me out with the harness. I might try posting in the Midwest section at LS1Tech and asking for a "mentor" to do my first one. Haha.

[aggie91]

Most of that is on that site. You might have to dig thru the other areas, such as the truck harness step by step he did on the site: This link is updated more recently then when I did mine, now it is on facebook...:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.570183759682543.1073741827.148224325211824&type=3

Here is the fuse block and OBDII port for the truck harness:
http://lt1swap.com/fuseblock_obd2port.html

Look at this page:
http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Most of that is on that site. You might have to dig thru the other areas, such as the truck harness step by step he did on the site: This link is updated more recently then when I did mine, now it is on facebook...:
https://www.facebook.com/media/set/?set=a.570183759682543.1073741827.148224325211824&type=3

Here is the fuse block and OBDII port for the truck harness:
http://lt1swap.com/fuseblock_obd2port.html

Look at this page:
http://lt1swap.com/2000harness.htm

Thanks again aggie,
I found a guy to work with that really seems to know his stuff on reprogramming my ECM to work with Fans and A/C along with some other "enhancements" He's actually sending me the schematics for how I will need to wire the harness to match his calibration. So, HOPEFULLY, I'm no longer in ECM/harness limbo-hell.

I'm going to start another thread for this but does anyone have suggestions on what clutch setup to use for now? I split the transmission and engine this weekend and although it's not that old (plenty of wear left), it looks like the P/O didn't know how to drive a stick as it's got chatter and hot spots all over it. It seems no one resurfaces pressure plates anymore so I'm going to need to buy new stuff if I want to replace it.

My goals; eventually, are as close to 600 RWHP as I can get, but I won't need that kind of clutch performance for a while so i can go with a more factory option for now. What's reasonably priced and a good value?

[im4u2nvss]

LS7 clutch kit, strong, great value. GM part# 24255748

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

LS7 clutch kit, strong, great value. GM part# 24255748

That part number comes up as an LS6 kit not an LS7?

[im4u2nvss]

That part number comes up as an LS6 kit not an LS7?

Not sure why it shows ls6? But part # was for disc and pressure plate only.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-24255748/overview/

Here is the clutch kit with pressure plate, disc and flywheel. Under $500.00.

http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-ls7-clutch-flywheel-package-for-all-lsx-applications/

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Not sure why it shows ls6? But part # was for disc and pressure plate only.

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/nal-24255748/overview/

Here is the clutch kit with pressure plate, disc and flywheel. Under $500.00.

http://www.tickperformance.com/gm-ls7-clutch-flywheel-package-for-all-lsx-applications/

Not sure either. The links you put up now appear to be the LS7. It looks like a good value. I'm going to see if one of my local haunts will do some resurfacing for me and if not, I'll go with this.

Also,
I found the Fbody slave (as opposed to my current GTO one) at a local auto parts store for $67 bucks including the bearing. Now I just need to pick up a master cylinder, mounting bracket, and lines. Any suggestions on where to get it? I see Mcleod has them but they are expensive as usual. I suppose the adjustability would be nice though. Maybe I could just build adjustment in to my pedal?

[Ron in SoCal]

O'Beer Miester...keep your eyes peeled on the Corvette forum and LS1tech for lightly used LS7 take out clutches. There's some good deals on there from time to time.

Speedtech sells the firewall bracket which allows for the angled 4th gen clutch master to be used:

http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=256/category_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd256.htm

OTOH, if you want an adjustable master ($$$), Tick or Macloed are your best options.

Last point, I'm wondering if the Goat TO bearing is any different? I know there are specific part numbers for starters which makes me wonder if the Bell or tranny input shaft is different?

Anyway I'm following along and rooting for your success!

:cheers:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

O'Beer Miester...keep your eyes peeled on the Corvette forum and LS1tech for lightly used LS7 take out clutches. There's some good deals on there from time to time.

Speedtech sells the firewall bracket which allows for the angled 4th gen clutch master to be used:

http://www.speedtechperformance.com/index.cfm/page/ptype=product/product_id=256/category_id=-1/home_id=-1/mode=prod/prd256.htm

OTOH, if you want an adjustable master ($$$), Tick or Macloed are your best options.

Last point, I'm wondering if the Goat TO bearing is any different? I know there are specific part numbers for starters which makes me wonder if the Bell or tranny input shaft is different?

Anyway I'm following along and rooting for your success!

:cheers:

Thanks Ron! Even after ribbing you I still get some help. You're an alright guy, I don't care what those other guys told me in PM's. :lmao:

I was actually just on the phone with speedtech and I think that's the way I'll go. They were nice enough to give me the part number for the GM master cylinder kit as wel.

I'm pretty sure the difference in the Goat stuff is just the slave and possibly the slave hookup so I'm just changing all of that to F-body stuff. As far as I can find, that will work. GTO stuff is like twice as much as F-body stuff for some reason so I'll just convert to F-body where I can. I'm even thinking about converting the shifter location to F-body so I can run short throws that aren't outrageous as well.

ETA: Just called up Jegs and got the bracket and master kit on order.

The GM part number for the 4th Gen F-body master cylinder/resivoir/line kit is: 12570277

I love Jegs and just in case whomever is reading this didn't know, they can get pretty much anything even if it isn't on their website or in their catalog. Just ask them to find it for you. I was able to order the master cylinder kit for around $100 cheaper from them than my local GM stealership and even cheaper than the ebay sellers. I've never had a bad experience with Jegs yet.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Oh,

And I just ordered this:

http://www.thegearbox.org/catalog/item/3838217/7328789.htm

Which is the part I need to move my shifter forward to the Fbody location.

So that I can order this:

http://www.mgwltd.com/camaro_short_throw_shifter.shtml

When I get to that point.

On another note, what transmission yoke did you guys use that are running the T56 in the firs gens?

[Ron in SoCal]

Thanks Ron! Even after ribbing you I still get some help. You're an alright guy, I don't care what those other guys told me in PM's. :lmao:


Yeah I get that alot. Part of the fun around here! :lmao:

First time meeting Justin from Scott's he says, "man those guys like to give you a hard time!" :D :cheers:

Glad you got a plan and you're rolling...

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Well,

I went ahead and ordered the trans-dapt stock location motor mounts, part number 4592. They were $64 so if they don't work like I want them to I'll get different ones or I'll just make my own plates to relocate everything since I'll have a pattern.

So far, engine mounts have been my least favorite thing to shop for. Everybody and their brothers, sisters and extended family makes a mount and there's stories all over about one working and the other not in different applications. Screw it. I'm getting these and if I don't like it I'll get out the mill and a welder.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Today I ordered a '69 Camaro 6 cyl. gas pedal so that I can connect by cable to my throttle body. I'll have to figure out which cable to use next.

I also splurged on the MGW short throw shifter. I know I shouldn't have and should have instead put that into a clutch but I'll be miserable without it. I'm spoiled after driving a Subaru 6 speed with a short throw for a few years.

On an unrelated note, I finally bought a "Zerk Zapper (http://www.zerkzapper.com/)" tool to try to get grease into the fittings of my old truck. After my clutch incident yesterday, I really need to get some grease into those things.

[Payton King]

makes cable that will work. I like their (Lokar) gas pedal for a 1st Gen better than the stock 6 cylinder pedal as well.

Been there and done that.

http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/throttlecables-kickdowns/tc-kd-pgs/throttle-cables.html

http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/directfit-pedals/directfit-pages/camaro-pedals.html

[glassman]

makes cable that will work. I like their (Lokar) gas pedal for a 1st Gen better than the stock 6 cylinder pedal as well.

Been there and done that.

http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/throttlecables-kickdowns/tc-kd-pgs/throttle-cables.html

http://www.lokar.com/product-pgs/directfit-pedals/directfit-pages/camaro-pedals.html

Those are the one i used on my 2nd gen, 04 Goat LS1. Works good so far. The angle is a little off at the MAF, i may tweek later for better visual, but that Lokar part works really well. Do it....

[72Z/28]

LS7 clutch kit, strong, great value. GM part# 24255748

Totally agree with you, just got mine installed last month with Keisler Hydraulic TOB kit

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Thanks guys,

I went with a similar lokar cable in my Willys when I swapped in the 5.7 and it worked well. Is there anything special I need for it to hook up to the ls1 throttle body?

I figured I'd just go with the 6cyl pedal both because it's cheaper and because it looks more plain. I went with stock brake and clutch pedals too. Hopefully it will work OK and I won't have too many problems with it.

Hopefully I'll be able to get the old engine pulled out before the end of the year. I plan on trading it for a 12 bolt rear from someone I know.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

As luck would have it, I've had a nasty cold and haven't been working on the car as much as I'd planned. This always seems to happen when I take vacation. I'd rather be miserable at work than at home!

Anyway, I was able to get a few things done. I removed the GTO shifter from the T56 , installed a new F-body shifter cup in the tranny and installed my new MGW shifter.

I finished installing my Holley 302-2 pan, which required some grinding on the starter.

I also dug into my wiring harness for the engine and removed the stuff I didn't need. After going through the harness with a fine toothed comb I'm less daunted by it. I really can't finish it until the engine is mounted in the car because I won't know where I'll put the ECM but at least I have a start.

Oh, put another reconditioned radiator in my Willys too so I should be back to no leaks and having an overflow reservoir again!

I'm feeling a bit better today so I think I'll fire up the heat in my shop and move the Camaro into the lift bay. I'll have to wait until the hydraulics are nice and warm though before I put it up. It's still friggen cold here.

Time to start ripping this thing apart!

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I got a lot of work done yesterday.

Exhaust, gas tank, drive shaft, radiator, tranny cooler, and the damn headers are off the car. The drivers side header was a miserable b---h to take off. I ended up having to remove all of the spark plugs and work it out the bottom.

I was also able to get most of the hoses, wires and linkages off of the engine and transmission so I have just bits and pieces to remove today in preparation to pull the engine and transmission itself.

I noticed that the slip yoke from my old automatic slides right into the T-56. Is there any reason not to use it for the swap?

Well, I'm going to make me some breakfast and then walk down to the shop and get crackin'

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

The old engine and trans are out!

My uncle came over to help me out and since I had a good head start it went pretty fast. We took off the hood, took out the bellhousing bolts and lifted out the engine. Then the trans came out the bottom.

We also took out the horse shoe shifter, the dash and the accelerator before we decided to call it quits for the day.

I can't seem to get the transmission crossmember out though. The bolts are removed but I can't seem to finagle it into a position where it will come out from between the subframe and the body. What's the deal? Is there something I'm missing?

The subframe mounts are shot and I have replacements. What is the best way to install the new ones without taking too much apart? Anyone have any suggestions? Also, one of the rear holes for the body mount on the subframe looks like it needs a weld repair.

Oh, it looks like I definitely have the 350 engine stands and I should probably get the 327 stands instead. Anyone have a suggestion on where to buy them?

Now I'm gonna take a well-deserved break and watch football today. I'm also in a fantasy football final which will win me some more money to put into the car...haha.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Well, Here's what the car looks like at the moment.

I've got problems though. I test fit the engine and I've got some issues with the brake booster hitting a coil and the oil pan hitting the crossmember. If I raise it up with a set of 327 stands or something, the brake booster will get worse at the same time the crossmember get's better.

Any suggestions?

I may have lost my audience by not posting enough pictures so I may post this question in another thread. I just figured I didn't have any interesting things to take pictures of until now.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

ohh pictures.... looking good so far.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I posted in another thread but I figured I'd document here that I've got subframe issues.

I'll have to figure out if it is worth fixing this one, if I should find a used stock one, buy a new OEM style one, or get something aftermarket.

The sub is sprung an inch too wide in the rear from mount to mount and it's got rusted out mount holes in at least three of the 6 positions. It also appears that the middle stand on the drivers side might be bent a bit.

Here's the thread with pix:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?p=527022#post527022

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Well, I figured I'd post a small update. I am definitely looking for a replacement subframe. I measured mine compared to the original specs the other day and it is WAY off. The mount locations on the car itself do match spec however so that's good news.

I also was able to check out my new (for me) 12 bolt that I traded the old camaro motor for. It's a posi unit and I was hoping for the correct gearing but I didn't really know what it was. Took the time to count the revolutions of the pinion to the hub and decided it's a 4.10. That's great news. I can use that.

With a 27" tall tire I should be about 43mph in first gear at 6500 RPM and 1600 RPM in 6th at 55mph. 70mph in 6th will be at 2000 RPM.

I think I can live with that. It should really want to roast the tires in 1st though. If I have to adjust maybe I'll go with a bit bigger diameter rear tire, of course, I'm not sure what is best for looks and fitment.

[tubbed69]

Cars looking good so far,it's a lot of trial and error putting the ls engines in but we'll worth it in the end.:thumbsup:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Well, I'm back in business!

Someone answered my Craigslist add for a stock subframe and I went and got it this weekend. It's in really good shape compared to my old one. It just needs a wee bit of TLC on the middle mount holes but that's it. The rear holes are great. The picture is pretty crappy but there's not much to see anyway.

I've also ordered all the components I need to rebuild the sub including bushings, tie rod ends, upper and lower ball joints, pitman and idler arm, rag joint etc. I'll be going with the 3rd get steering box as well but haven't ordered one yet.

Anyway, at least I can make some real headway again!

[aggie91]

Cool, waiting to see more...

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Well, my uncle and I got some work done on the subframe in his shop this weekend. It should be ready to go and get sand blasted now.

Here's our fix for the rusty middle mount holes. We special ordered washers of the right thickness and bored out the ID on a lathe to the proper dimension. Then we fitted it to a hole in the frame that my uncle cut out with a plasma cutter and smoothed out with a die grinder. For most of this, I just let him do his thing. I can weld and grind but he does it for a living so I left the professional alone!
46102
Tacked it into place and made some minor adjustments.
46103
Finish Welded
46104
Ground the Weld and they are done
46105

After that we heated and beat out some dents caused by people inserting tow hooks in places not designed for it. I decided to put a tow hook on the front just for that purpose in case it was ever needed.
46106

Getting that thing apart was a big PITA. The upper control arms weren't so bad but the lowers required judicious use of a plasma cutter on the bolts. So, now I'm in search of new bolts for the lower control arms.

That's it for now. It doesn't seem like a lot but it took a whole day.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I ordered some new upper bump stops, LCA bolts, front shocks and an alternator bracket (one I got with the engine was broken) yesterday. That wasn't too bad.


Today I ordered a Classic Auto Air system and some VHX gauges. That was Ouch!

[pitts12driver]

Keep up the good work. It's a long (and expensive road) I think I've bought my car twice!

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Keep up the good work. It's a long (and expensive road) I think I've bought my car twice!

I was hoping to keep the total cost of my build including the car to under $25,000. I mean, I knew it wasn't going to happen but giving myself a number to stick to still helps me come out under what it would have if I didn't care and on my salary...I definitely care!

That being said, my revised goal is $30,000. This is to get it on the road and running reliably, mind you. It's not including later upgrades like a ridetech suspension and a new paint job.

So, today I was looking at what I still need, as far as big expenses go and I'm down to three things, for the most part, baring any unforeseen circumstances.

1. Fricken indomitable, gosh-darn headers. (I'm really beginning to hate headers)
2. Exhaust (thinking magnaflow 15899)
3. Radiator and fans

By my calculations; if I get the cheaper headers I'm thinking about, I should be needing to spend about $1,870 on that stuff.

I'm really hoping that's it because I'm getting uncomfortably close to $30k

[U-turn]

I was hoping to keep the total cost of my build including the car to under $25,000. I mean, I knew it wasn't going to happen but giving myself a number to stick to still helps me come out under what it would have if I didn't care and on my salary...I definitely care!

That being said, my revised goal is $30,000. This is to get it on the road and running reliably, mind you. It's not including later upgrades like a ridetech suspension and a new paint job.

So, today I was looking at what I still need, as far as big expenses go and I'm down to three things, for the most part, baring any unforeseen circumstances.

1. Fricken indomitable, gosh-darn headers. (I'm really beginning to hate headers)
2. Exhaust (thinking magnaflow 15899)
3. Radiator and fans

By my calculations; if I get the cheaper headers I'm thinking about, I should be needing to spend about $1,870 on that stuff.

I'm really hoping that's it because I'm getting uncomfortably close to $30k


Bud, everyone has that goal..... and everyone breaks it too....

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Just a small, non-picture-worthy update.

I installed my Sanden compressor from my CAA kit last night with the included Kwik Performance bracket. I also temporarily mounted the alternator back on as well. I'm going to pick up a belt tonight and make sure it's all good. It seems like everything should work and it went together without any apparent issues; yeah, weird right?

This is all sitting on an engine stand outside the vehicle unfortunately....LOL

I did order my exhaust last week so I might have that by the end of this week. Not like I'll need it for a while though anyway.

So, down to headers and radiator/fans on my "to buy" list for now.

Oh, I did order the stuff to rebuild the rear spring bushings and shackles as well. Figured I might as well do that when I switch to the 12 bolt rear end. I snagged some stainless brake lines for the front and rear as well as part of the order.

[waynieZ]

Don't feel bad I bought my exhaust for my car 5 years ago and still not ready for it. Same one you got.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I seem to be moving backwards....:confused18:

Last week I rebuilt the 12 bolt rear end that I had ready to go into the car. This Saturday I took out the 10 bolt and then we had to proceed to grind off every single bolt involved in holding the rear springs to the car. All the shackle bolts, all the j-nut bolts...everything. Nothing would come loose with normal means of persuasion; not even the "smoke wrench" could get it done. And here I thought I might be able to get the 12 bolt installed. Luckily I knew this was probably going to be an issue and already have the parts on hand to rebuild everything however; I just had hoped it wouldn't take me 7 hours to get it apart.

On Sunday, I cleaned my shop of the complete mess caused by the above procedures, including gear lube, grinding dust and various pieces/particles of Camaro. Now I can actually work in it again.

Some good news is that I heard my front subframe and parts are ready to be picked up from the powder coater. With my car being up on my lift with no wheels or axles whatsoever, it will be really nice to just get the thing on the ground again! Hopefully within the next two weeks, I'll have a roller or even have a roller with the engine mounted in it; at least in an initial test-fit.

Some more bad news is that I have to buy more stuff. Specifically I must decide on headers very soon.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Upon further inspection, the leaf springs that came off of my car had two completely different arches. So, either one was worn out, or they are actually two different springs. I'm leaning towards the latter.

Anyway, I was able to score some new ones locally for $111 a piece and they'll be delivered tomorrow.

Better news! I'm picking up my newly coated subframe and parts tonight!

[Stovebolter]

Aren't these cars fun! May the force be with you.

I vote the mods give us a smiley with a light saber! :popcorn2:

David

[aggie91]

I seem to be moving backwards....:confused18:

Last week I rebuilt the 12 bolt rear end that I had ready to go into the car. This Saturday I took out the 10 bolt and then we had to proceed to grind off every single bolt involved in holding the rear springs to the car. All the shackle bolts, all the j-nut bolts...everything. Nothing would come loose with normal means of persuasion; not even the "smoke wrench" could get it done. And here I thought I might be able to get the 12 bolt installed. Luckily I knew this was probably going to be an issue and already have the parts on hand to rebuild everything however; I just had hoped it wouldn't take me 7 hours to get it apart.

On Sunday, I cleaned my shop of the complete mess caused by the above procedures, including gear lube, grinding dust and various pieces/particles of Camaro. Now I can actually work in it again.

Some good news is that I heard my front subframe and parts are ready to be picked up from the powder coater. With my car being up on my lift with no wheels or axles whatsoever, it will be really nice to just get the thing on the ground again! Hopefully within the next two weeks, I'll have a roller or even have a roller with the engine mounted in it; at least in an initial test-fit.

Some more bad news is that I have to buy more stuff. Specifically I must decide on headers very soon.

I can relate, you get ready to get a job done and it fights you the whole way...:bang:

Hope your header decision goes easy...:idea:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Aren't these cars fun! May the force be with you.

I vote the mods give us a smiley with a light saber! :popcorn2:

David

Haha, I've got a picture for you. Some have a shop dog, I've got a shop Yoda...
47160

Every time something I get stuck on something I look up and think about this:

BQ4yd2W50No?t=16s


I can relate, you get ready to get a job done and it fights you the whole way...:bang:

Hope your header decision goes easy...:idea:

That last part was a sick joke wasn't it?:warning: :lol:
I think I actually have decided on headers. Ones I can cut on and weld if they don't fit but cheap enough that I won't feel bad that I did it.

Here are a couple of pix of my powdercoated sub!

47161

Well, I guess I have a shop dog as well. He's annoyingly in the way all the time though and absolutely worthless for fetching tools or anything else. The ladies like him though, so that's something I guess.
47162

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

A little progress this weekend. I was able to get my 12 bolt fully installed and filled with lube and some friction modifier.

47324

I also did a little work on my CAA A/C system. I'm to the part where I need someone to help me lift up the unit from under dash while I bolt it up from the engine side of the firewall.

Once that's done, it's on to test fitting my engine into the subframe again and seeing if I need to cut out a bit for the alternator.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

A lot of progress this weekend!

Friday night we finished up the cutout in the subframe for the alternator.
47473
It turned out pretty nice. I did have to mess up the nice powdercoating but the paint I used matched really well. You would never be able to tell.

After the alternator cutout we worked on the transmission crossmember.

The middle part is from the donor 2004 GTO and I'm using a new GTO mount as well.
47474

It may need a little strengthening or bracing later, but for now it looks like it will work really well.

On Saturday we worked on getting the subframe up underneath the car again, and getting all the brake stuff hooked up. I did have one little SNAFU in that I didn't get the right rag joint for the 3rd gen steering box I'm using. I've got it (GM 7826542) on order now at the local auto parts store.

After the Easter family stuff we decided to play with the car some more and actually install (hopefully I won't have to take it out anytime soon) the engine and transmission.

Here's the transmission mounted under the car.

47475

And Here's the engine in it's new home.
47476

It fit pretty well. I have probably around a 3 to 4 degree downward angle on it and the trans fits pretty tight. I'm going to remove some of the welded in nuts in the body for a little clearance and do a little cutting around the reverse lockout solenoid.

Here's the alternator resting nicely in it's new home.
47478
To remove it, you just need to remove the bolts that attach it to the engine first and pull out the whole assembly towards the front of the vehicle. Then you can unhook the wires and it pops right out.

Here's a pic of the new master and 8" booster. No clearance issues there anymore.
47477

This wasn't planned but turned out really good for me. The wiring harness from the GTO that went to the alternator starter and battery looks like it will end up right where my battery is in the Camaro. That will save me some time and headaches!

47479


I'm starting to get a little excited, and I'm hoping things keep going smoothly even though I'm planning that they won't. :knokwood:

Now I've got to order some fuel line and fittings. My radiator should be here this week. Next though, is the wiring from hell! That's what I'm most worried about at this point. I'm hoping to get some pointers and help from this forum on that.

Until the next update: May the Schlitz be with you!

[Ron in SoCal]

Is it running YET??

:cheers:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Is it running YET??

:cheers:

I've got some crappy tires on there that are just begging to be destroyed so we'll see who has the first burn-out video.:morepower

:popcorn2:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Argh!!!!
47638
:EmoteClueless:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I haven't made any updates to my thread lately.....BECAUSE I was too busy actually WORKING on the car!

In chronological order........

I ended up buying the Texas Speed stainless steel LS swap headers. My reasoning was based on the SWAG that I would need to modify WHATEVER I bought anyway and that they filled two criteria.

1. They are stainless steel so I can modify them without worrying about a coating.
2. They are cheaper than most so I won't WORRY about modifying them.

Well, I did have to modify them, but not very much. They just made contact with my rag joint.

Sawzall!
48396

48397

Mig with Stainless wire
48398

Here it is installed
48399

Ohh, what's that sticking up through the floor? An MGW shifter! And it's even attached to a T56!
48400

After that we took an entire weekend making a kit that's supposed to fit, fit. IOW, the Magnaflow 3" exhaust had a few issues. Notably where the pipe exits from the rear of the muffler. It just got too close to the axle. Unfortunately, I can't seem to find the pictures I took of this anywhere. Oh well.

Then I bought a nice new radiator. Unfortunately, someone else with a 69 camaro ordered one at the exact same time and they had a big block. They sent me the big block radiator and he got my LS one.

48401

After that was straitened out, I was sent the proper one.

Ahhh.....
48402

Then I went about installing my CAI. Unfortunately...AGAIN, I was missing parts. It didn't have the aluminum tube in the package. I called up Spectre though, and they took care of it right away.

48403

Then we decided to finish up (for the most part) the Classic Auto Air system.

Here's the under-dash view. Not much else to see except what's in front of the radiator and in my engine compartment.

48404

This weekend I got a bunch of wiring done.

48405

I actually got the fuel pump working (through the PCM even!) and imediately found a leak in the push in connector on the fuel filter/regulator outlet. Sigh.

Then, my Dakota Digital gauges never even lit up at all. So, I called them today to send me a new brain box. It must have been dead on arrival.

If I didn't have all this bad luck, I'd be done already!

So, waiting on parts again. I'm really hoping to hear this engine fire up next weekend.

[Dave95z28]

Whose radiator and fan combo is that?

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

http://www.wwwsuperiorradiator.com/60s_cars_camaro_chevelle
Superior Radiator. Very reasonably priced and the quality seems good as well.

[rickpaw]

You're getting close. Keep at it. I took the easy route with the wiring and ordered wiring kit from PSI. I actually enjoy wiring, but was short on time.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

After fixing the fuel plumbing last night and checking some things over, I couldn't resist seeing if the car would start.

It started fine and no trouble codes (amazingly enough)!

The first time, I ran it for less than a minute and found out how fast the headers heat up on this thing. Even burning my fingerprints off couldn't wreck my day after hearing this thing run for the first time.

watch?v=fTnuckdfR18

Obviously I still have a lot of work to do but I'm getting close:

I need to clean up the wiring.
Put in my new brain box for the VHX gauges (coming today) and hope they work now.
Send my PCM back for some reprogramming based on the AC setup I'm using and because the reverse lockout isn't functioning properly through the PCM.
Figure out why the P/S is leaking at the box.
Get the front end aligned.

After that, it should be on the road and officially be a "Running/Driving Project".

As we all know, there are many many things to do in the driving project stage and most cars never leave that stage either.

[Ron in SoCal]

Congrats man, sounds meaty! :hail:

Now clean up that wiring before something not good happens :D

[rickpaw]

Congrats.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I was able to get a little bit more done this weekend; and of course, find more problems. Yay! :headspin:

I cleaned up the wiring and got it routed where it's supposed to go. Unfortunately, I may be digging back in there again as....

The PCM is not turning on my fans like it should. Nor is it disengaging the reverse lockout. My AC request going though the PCM is also not turning on the fan that it's supposed to. These PCM problems should be taken care of this week by the tuner. It's too bad that he's not closer to me and I have to ship stuff back and forth but this was a pretty complex segment swap and I'm pretty sure there isn't anyone closer (That I'd trust) to work on it. In fact, last time I mentioned a "segment swap" to the closest tuner I could find, he was like "huh?".

Other than the aforementioned issues, the PCM works well and runs the engine fine with no trouble codes. That's mostly at idle though with just a little bit of messing about.

As for the Dakota Digital issues: The first "brain box" that came with my gauges must indeed have been dead on arrival. I wired the replacement box in this weekend and my gauges work properly and as advertised.

As we were buttoning up stuff under the dash and tested out the wipers, I noticed smoke coming out of the wiper motor. We kept taking a piece off it and testing it until we had it all the way apart (drilled out the rivets holding the two halves of the housing together) and found out that the smoke was coming from the internal resistor. I can't seem to find any information on the resistor so I guess I'm going to have to replace the whole unit with a rebuilt one. Also, on the same subject, I found that the washer part of my wiper switch may not work either.

The next day I drained the old fluid out of the T56 and put in brand new stuff and topped off the engine oil with another half a quart. Then we got to work on trying to finish up the dash and the center louver for the Classic Auto Air.

First, if I haven't mentioned it before, the instructions for the CAA unit suck. Stuff is kind of out of order and that causes issues when you do something first that should have been done later, etc. The instructions for installing the center louver were almost non-existent. It was kind of like, "cut this and stick it in". So I had to call them today to ask about it and about replacing my louver since the vents were mounted in in crooked. In any case I think I understand it now and should be able to put it in when I get the new unit.

I also fixed my dome light that was actually disconnected from the harness near the rear wheel well. I had to fish in with a clothes hanger to find the plug while my uncle crawled in through the back seat and latched the two together.

Now I'm busy waiting on others (for the most part). Otherwise I could take a day or two off and get this puppy on the road.

1. I need the PCM fixed so I can take trailer it in to the alignment shop and (hopefully) drive it home. Kind of need the fans for that.
2. I need the Wisconsin DMV A.K.A (Dumbass obstructionist Mf'n Vipers) to send me my title and licences. Did I mention that I hate the DMV and believe they are the most useless government agency on the face of the earth? I've had nothing but problems with the Malum prohibitum loving dbags over there. EVERY time I try to get a licence or title there is some sort of issue caused by their stupid rules that don't make any sense and aren't written as laws anywhere that I can find.....anyway....[/rant]

So, now it's mostly a waiting game and I can't stand it. I'm not Ron in Socal after all.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I drove my car home from the stealership last night where it was in for an alignment. So far, it seems the only real important bug I need to work out is with the cooling system.

I'm running the stock thermostat (195 degree, I think) and fan 1 is set to come on at 226 degrees. The fan does come on at this time but when I shut down the engine and it's close to this temperature I'm hearing boiling coolant in the radiator and I get some coming out of the overflow. I'm running a 16 lb cap.

Anyone have any suggestions on that?

When going down the road it stays pretty cool and I don't THINK I'm having any issues at that time.

As far as thoughts on driving this thing (for any distance at least) for the first time, my overall opinion is SWEET! As my build progresses in the running/driving project stage, I was going to start with power adders but I can definitely see that suspension should be the first thing on the list. It may be only an LS1 but this thing really screams. I'm happy with my power level for now. It needs sub frame connectors as I can feel what I assume to be some body flex as well.

In any case, I was grinning from ear to ear when I really romped on it for the first time. Ron, I even burned a bit of rubber off the rear tires (just to make sure the posi was working of course) but I didn't take a video.
:poke:

[Vince@Meanstreets]

LS engines run hot for emissions and crank case moisture burn off. I would get the fans to come on sooner. Sitting in traffic,w AC on and low flow you should keep it around 210. T stat temp is fine, you just need to get the fan cycles down. Fan 1? I assume you have 2 fans. Set it up so AC sense will run both fans.

As far as cap pressure , I would go with what the radiator manufacture recommends. Most I have seen are 16 lbs.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

What are you running for coolant? Glycol mix or straight water or water wetter and water?

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Hi Vince!

I'm running a 50/50 mix of Oreilly's version of GM Dex-cool.

I have a second PCM off getting reprogrammed at the moment and he's going to turn down the fan on temperature as well as fix the programming for the AC and the reverse lockout. I also talked to him about this issue.

It may be because I'm not using (as of yet) a coolant overflow/recovery tank and it's sucking air back into the system. I guess I'm not sure how the more modern caps/radiators/vehicles are technically "supposed" to work as the stuff I worked on before was mostly designed to spew on the ground.

I'm going to get a cheapo reservoir from the auto parts store tonight to test the theory out and if it works, will be going to something a little nicer for a permanent solution.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Hi Vince!

I'm running a 50/50 mix of Oreilly's version of GM Dex-cool.

I have a second PCM off getting reprogrammed at the moment and he's going to turn down the fan on temperature as well as fix the programming for the AC and the reverse lockout. I also talked to him about this issue.

It may be because I'm not using (as of yet) a coolant overflow/recovery tank and it's sucking air back into the system. I guess I'm not sure how the more modern caps/radiators/vehicles are technically "supposed" to work as the stuff I worked on before was mostly designed to spew on the ground.

I'm going to get a cheapo reservoir from the auto parts store tonight to test the theory out and if it works, will be going to something a little nicer for a permanent solution.

yep, you will run low eventually,

I like this tank and run it on everything. Tucks in next to the battery.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showpost.php4?p=555262&postcount=43

[rickpaw]

That was my concern regarding cooling when I first ran the engine (LM7). I reprogrammed the fan controller to have the fan come on at 190* (I think the thermostat is 185*). Engine stayed constantly at 195*.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

yep, you will run low eventually,

I like this tank and run it on everything. Tucks in next to the battery.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showpost.php4?p=555262&postcount=43


Vince, what is the proper cap to go with that jar? Since nothing comes with anything anymore, I'm assuming it's not included if I order the jar.


That was my concern regarding cooling when I first ran the engine (LM7). I reprogrammed the fan controller to have the fan come on at 190* (I think the thermostat is 185*). Engine stayed constantly at 195*.

So, you had the same symptoms or did you reprogram it before you ever started it up? I actually forgot to ask what my PCM guy was going to reprogram it to....haha. He did express concerns about programming it to a temperature that is too low but I didn't ask him where the "cut-off" was.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Vince, what is the proper cap to go with that jar? Since nothing comes with anything anymore, I'm assuming it's not included if I order the jar.
any GM spin on cap from 1975-2000 will work. Still available at GM under pn 15630112. Also Oreilly's or Pep boys from Dorman Help. about 4 bucks

[rickpaw]

So, you had the same symptoms or did you reprogram it before you ever started it up? I actually forgot to ask what my PCM guy was going to reprogram it to....haha. He did express concerns about programming it to a temperature that is too low but I didn't ask him where the "cut-off" was.

Actually the fans came on before the thermostat open. I have a stand alone fan controller (Dakota Digital), and it was programmed for the old Pontiac engine (fan came on at 185*). I reprogramed the controller to have it come on at 195*.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I ordered the Nova reservoir. Hopefully I'll have it tomorrow or Saturday since it's coming from Illinois via "speedy delivery" but we'll see.

Vince, was there anything special about mounting this part in a Camaro?

Thanks!

[Vince@Meanstreets]

I ordered the Nova reservoir. Hopefully I'll have it tomorrow or Saturday since it's coming from Illinois via "speedy delivery" but we'll see.

Vince, was there anything special about mounting this part in a Camaro?

Thanks!

Just one screw through the inner fender brace. Most cars already have the hole there. The base of the tank just sits on the inner fender well flat. Theres a decent picture in that link I posted earlier.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Just one screw through the inner fender brace. Most cars already have the hole there. The base of the tank just sits on the inner fender well flat. Theres a decent picture in that link I posted earlier.

I looked at the picture but I must be getting old. It was a little too small for me to make out the detail. I do think that I already have a hole there. I noticed it last night when I was installing the hood.

Speaking of which, UPDATE; I installed the hood last night! She's getting close!

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I received my reservoir yesterday and installed it today. Thanks again Vince! It worked pretty darn good. I had to drill a hole slightly forward of the existing hole. Then I drilled the plastic out to 5/16 and put a body nut on it so I could put my bike in from the outside.

After that, we finished the dash and I checked my mailbox. Lo and behold, my Wisconsin hobbyist plates showed up! So, I took it into town for a cruise and washed it. I'll post some pictures when I get to a computer but I'll say it sure did clean up nice.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

I looked at the picture but I must be getting old. It was a little too small for me to make out the detail. I do think that I already have a hole there. I noticed it last night when I was installing the hood.

Speaking of which, UPDATE; I installed the hood last night! She's getting close!

I received my reservoir yesterday and installed it today. Thanks again Vince! It worked pretty darn good. I had to drill a hole slightly forward of the existing hole. Then I drilled the plastic out to 5/16 and put a body nut on it so I could put my bike in from the outside.

After that, we finished the dash and I checked my mailbox. Lo and behold, my Wisconsin hobbyist plates showed up! So, I took it into town for a cruise and washed it. I'll post some pictures when I get to a computer but I'll say it sure did clean up nice.

coming together pretty good! no problem. :thumbsup:

[Ron in SoCal]

:ttiwop:

:thumbsup: too!

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Here's some pictures of the outside after washing off the dust and grime.

4873048731
4873248733
4873448735

She's a little too high in the air of course, but I'll have to take care of that; along with wheels and tires, when I've got more money. At least it's driveable!

I'm working on trying to figure out what to do for a console yet and still need my reprogrammed PCM to come in the mail to work out the A/C and the reverse lockout.

[glassman]

That'll do man!!!! Nice to finally see the beast LIVE!!......

I/we just need to see some nice "stripes" behind the tires as well......

[tubbed69]

Car is really looking good,glad to see it on the road,I am sure that feels good:trophy-1302:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

That'll do man!!!! Nice to finally see the beast LIVE!!......

I/we just need to see some nice "stripes" behind the tires as well......

I'm trying to give Ron a chance to beat me to it. BTW.... :secret: I've already tried a few "stripes" but haven't recorded it.:secret:

Car is really looking good,glad to see it on the road,I am sure that feels good:trophy-1302:

It sure does feel good! There are some bugs I'm trying to work out but I'm taking it one problem at a time and trying to get them all taken care of. Unfortunately, we are having severe weather around here right now and it will probably keep up through the end of the week. So, road tests aren't going to come again for a bit.

[Ron in SoCal]

I'm trying to give Ron a chance to beat me to it. BTW.... :secret: I've already tried a few "stripes" but haven't recorded it.:secret:



I'll do it after I burn up the tires on the track. You have until the first week in August...:hello:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Installed my Tiburon seats this weekend.

They're much more comfortable than the stock seats, with one caveat. In order to get them low enough that a 6'3" person like me can sit in them comfortably without hitting the ceiling, they have to be installed off-center a bit.

The Tiburon seats are actually offset already. IIRC, they are off-center by at least an inch and a half.

Here's a picture of the brackets.
49206

I thought I had one of the seats too, but I guess I forgot to take one. I can get one of those anytime though if anyone is interested.


Anyway, We decided to make the brackets out of 12ga steel. We were thinking about using angle iron but the 12ga "test piece" seemed more than strong enough when bent to it's shape on the brake and after the front end was bent and welded to the contour of the Tiburon seat. You can't see it very well in the picture, but the front (towards the left) hole of the bracket is on an angle. There are nuts welded to the bottom of it.

Being a bit off-center from the steering wheel is a little weird at first but I'm getting used to it. Like I said though, still way more comfortable than stock.

If you're short, you could move the seats away from the tunnel and get them closer to center. You'd need to move them about 2" further up in the air to accomplish it. You also may not be able to use the stock seat belts, which I retained in my installation.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Another small update.

My stock drive shaft that we shortened had a little bit of a kink in it, so I knew that I'd have to replace it fairly soon. So, last week I brought it in and had a local shop make me a new one. I decided to go with the 1350 joints and get a new rear pinion yoke to accommodate that.

Well, I went to install my new shaft on Friday and it was at least an inch and a half too long. The new slip yoke was longer so instead of "bottoming" on the transmission rear seal, it bottomed on the inner part. The new pinion yoke was longer as well.

So today I brought it back in to be shortened. Hopefully I'll get it back and be able to install it tonight! After getting a taste of it, I'm sick of not driving my car!

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I did get the new driveshaft installed this Monday and have been driving the car quite a bit since. It drives really nice now, no vibration from the drive train anymore!

In fact, this thing is my best driving vehicle at the moment. Has the best fuel mileage too! I got over 20 mpg on the last tank and I was flogging it quite a bit.

[Ron in SoCal]

Congrats OBWK :cheers:

[waynieZ]

Great news. Time to Enjoy all your hard work.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Thanks guys!

Oh, and this ones for Ron.....

49370

Still giving you a chance man. No actual "Video evidence" yet.

[Ron in SoCal]

A ten footer, eh? C'mon cupcake :drive: :lol:

[Vince@Meanstreets]

A ten footer, eh? C'mon cupcake :drive: :lol:
what? I'd say his brakes are working just fine.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

A ten footer, eh? C'mon cupcake :drive: :lol:

10ft? That's gotta be around 30'! No wonder it took so long to get your car done. 10 years? Nah, that was only 5! Lucky the guy that did your body gaps had better depth perception than you. :poke: :D

what? I'd say his brake are working just fine.

Yeah, who says you need 32" wilwoobrembobears!


Hmmph....I need to find a cheap set of used tires as backups.....

[Che70velle]

LOL! You guys crack me up!

[Vince@Meanstreets]

did you ever get your seats done?

[Stovebolter]

Car turned out great! Engine is my next phase.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

did you ever get your seats done?

Sure did. I guess I forgot to update my thread and post pictures.

The seats are way better than the originals. I put a couple thousand miles on them. They look good and the price was right too. We did have to fab up some pretty snazzy brackets to adapt the bolt pattern to the camaro without making any new holes and still keep the seat low enough to keep my head off the ceiling but we were able to pull it off. I was able to keep the original seat belts as well.

The only thing I don't like is that they wind up a little off-center to the steering wheel but I don't suppose you'd really notice it if you weren't the one to do the fitting and fab. I drove my aunt's 2011 Acadia and noticed it's off too, so no big deal I guess.

I do need to take the brackets back out to paint them one of these days but that probably won't be for a while. Snow on the ground now. Can't wait for spring to drive it again.

ETA: looks like I repeated myself a bit from an earlier post. Did I answer your question Vince? Is there anything in particular you'd like to know?

[DKz Garage]

Any chance you have pics of your seats installed?

[Justin@EntropyRad]

just because the username is funny

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Any chance you have pics of your seats installed?

Somewhere. Right now my shop where my car is stored is drifted over with snow. I did reply to your PM though with a fairly accurate description of where the seats sit.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

bump for updates

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Vince caught me.....

I do have some updates on the way.

I ordered some new forgestar wheels about 6 weeks ago and they are coming in this Friday according to UPS

They are Forgestar 19" CF5V.
Fronts:
19x8.5 +10 offset

Rears:
19x9.5 +6 offset

For lots of good suggestions on the more inexpensive side of wheels and tires for cars like mine you can check out this thread:

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=46383


I've got Bridgstone Potenza S-04 Pole positions being quoted as well as BFGoodrich g-force COMP2. in 245/40R19 for the front and 275/40R19 for the back.

I'm also working on a car audio system centered on an interesting Chinese head unit I picked up:

http://www.autopumpkin.com/car-dvd-players/2-din-universal-car-dvd-gps-navigation-pure-android-4-4-stereo-head-unit-with-6-95-inch-lcd-hd-capacitive-touch-screen-3g-wifi-bluetooth-obd2-free-mic.html

It's powered by android and will be hooked up to a reverse camera, front facing camera (DVR) and my OBD2 port. It can also do pretty much anything an android tablet can do including showing a digital dashboard, clearing DTC's and viewing PID's and logging. I can use Google NAV with a data connection or I can use an offline NAV software as well and not need internet. It will do WIFI as well.

I found some old school car audio goodies at a local shop so the car will also be getting a couple of 12" subs, some vintage NIB Eclipse line source 3 way components and a vintage Soundstream Davinci amplifier to run the system.

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/attachments/old-school-car-audio-discussion/59574d1425992464-old-school-showoff-thread-20150309_171139.jpg

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/attachments/old-school-car-audio-discussion/59575d1425992488-old-school-showoff-thread-20150309_171154.jpg

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/attachments/old-school-car-audio-discussion/59576d1425992507-old-school-showoff-thread-20150309_171224.jpg

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/attachments/old-school-car-audio-discussion/59578d1425992537-old-school-showoff-thread-20150309_171804.jpg

http://www.diymobileaudio.com/forum/attachments/old-school-car-audio-discussion/59579d1425992549-old-school-showoff-thread-20150309_171945.jpg

I'm about half-way through making some door speaker pods for the 6.5 component woofers and tweeters. Some ahole (a previous owner) already cut holes in my doors so I'll be covering them up with the speaker pods and using the hole for clearance of my speaker magnet. Hopefully I can do a little work on the console and speaker pods tonight. We'll see how it goes.

[glassman]

Sweet dude. Pics all the way...specially of the sound system, dont see enough of those on here imo....:rockin:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I've been really busy the last few weeks both with work and with my car. I have several things "in process" but have only completed my column and steering wheel.

Anway, I thought I'd post some pictures of ongoing stuff and especially some of my NRG steering wheel quick release so you guys that might be thinking of one can see how much aditional length it adds and what it looks like.

So, without further ado here's some column and steering wheel pictures:
54144
54145
54146
54147

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Next,
I've got some work done on the front door speaker pods.

Step 1, make the template form out of 3/4" MDF.
54148
Step 2, make copies of the above form with my POS Home Depot router table and some flush trim bits.
Step 3, attach them to a backing plate with some wedges and hot glue. (sorry, no pix)
Step 4, get some fleece, two-way stretch, or preferably four-way stretch fabric and stretch it over the form so there are no wrinkes (no wrinkes on the front, you can have as many wrinkles on the back as you want!). You can staple it on the back as shown.
You'll end up up with a very organic looking flowing form as seen below after step 5.
54149
Step 5, fiberglass resin.
54150
This would be a lot smoother but my old resin decided to set too quickly and get a little thick....
54151
Step 6, trim excess fabric.
54152
Step 7, admire your -still as not yet completed- speaker pods.
54153
54154

I have a little sanding to do and I may reinforce them with actual fiberglass on the inside later. The general idea though is to cover them with vinyl when they are sufficiently smooth. I think they'll turn out really well and should look like they are made for the car.....afterall, they are.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Here's a sneak preview of my super-secret console build.

This is a mockup out of some thin sheet. The basic shape is there but there will be some changes in height off of the floor and places for my double-din, 2 cup holders and a cell phone. I'm also planning on adding charging ports somewhere.

54155

Here is one of the cup holders I'm going to use. It's pretty nice. Stainless steel, two different diameters, and has a cushy bottom. Also, I think they were about $12 a piece, so resonable too.

54156

There's still a lot to be done with the console, but I'm really hoping to get some time to work with it more as soon as my sheet metal guy (my uncle) get's some time again.

[DKz Garage]

Nice work on the Speaker enclosures..... now how about some updated pics of those Tiburon seats in your 69???:poke:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Nice work on the Speaker enclosures..... now how about some updated pics of those Tiburon seats in your 69???:poke:

What do you mean? You can clearly see a corner of the passenger seat in post #98 and the corner of the drivers seat in post #100.
:action-smiley-027:

Ugh, I keep forgetting about that. I'll get you some.....as soon as I remember. Haha

[glassman]

Where'd you source the cup/drink/beer holders? Like it

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Where'd you source the cup/drink/beer holders? Like it
Looks like they are $13.48 instead of $12. :D
http://www.boatoutfitters.com/3-5-stainless-steel-cup-holder
These also come with a self adhesive foam sealing strip attached to the flange.
The nipple on the bottom is a plastic screw on compression fitting for connecting a drain hose (meant for a boat....so). You can just saw it off if you don't like it. I'm going to use the hole to bolt down the console and cup holder at the same time.

[cwylie]

What do you think about the extra length added by the NRG adapter. What version did you end up using?

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

What do you think about the extra length added by the NRG adapter. What version did you end up using?

Version 2.5 I believe.

I needed the extra length so I was more than happy with it. I had to move my seats way back so that my legs would fit. That caused me to be too far from the steering wheel. This is much more comfortable.

The stock wheel has quite a dish to it, somewhere over 3 inches, so with the Momo wheel that has barely any dish the location of my wheel is actually only around 1"closer to me.

So, if you are thinking about the NRG system, just watch the dish on various wheels compared to your current wheel.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I've been working a lot on the car lately and have a few updates. I was able to get the new wheels and tires on permanently, finally. I posted the below in my wheel thread as well.

275/40R19's don't really fit which is why it took me so long to make an update to this thread.

I knew I'd have to trim the outer fender lip a little in the rear and that went off without a hitch. Unfortunately, I found that my choice of a 245/40R19 for the front was a bit agressive. It was the diameter that was the problem and it would rub on the back of the outer wheel well opening. Instead of messing with that, I just ordered 245/35R19's which fixed the problem.

Well, I thought I was home free but I then noticed some squeaking during fairly mild cornering and there was a definite rubbing going into driveways and such. It turns out that the rear tires were rubbing on the inner fender when the car was off square. So, if one wheel traveled downwards and the other traveled upwards, the higher tire would rub on the inner fender.

I thought maybe it wasn't too bad and I could do a little "massaging" but I found it was pretty bad actually, bad enough that I had to "micro tub" it, (at least that's what I'm calling it). Basically we cut out a portion of the inner fender and then I tested it by putting a 4" thick block of wood under a front tire and then jacking up the rear axle on the spring perch diagonally from the front tire with the block of wood. This showed how bad it really was. I didn't want to mess with a mini tub just yet as there are other panels I'd like to replace when I do that so we did the best we could.

Long story short, we were able to move the shock inwards by about 3/4" on each side and this allowed us to cut out enough metal to get around 1" more out of the inner fender. It's enough, but it's barely enough.

For those wanting to stay stock I can not recommend this tire size. As a matter of fact, I can't believe that you wouldn't have trouble with a 275/40R18 as well. Maybe if you had a lot stiffer suspension and a sway bar? I'm not sure. If you didn't run the chrome/stainless moldings on the outer fender well lip and trimmed it futher and rolled it, you may get the 18" tires to work with a backspacing that moves them out another 5/8" or so....but the 19's? I don't think so.

Anyway, the finished product looks really good:

54705

It does need to go lower though. However; I might have to minitub at that point....so I might as well wait until I have more money for suspension and brakes.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Here are some pictures of my Tiburon seats that people (mainly ClassicCamaro above, haha) were asking for.

54708
54707
54706
54709

Pardon my dust in the last picture, I was working on my "micro tub" at the time and there was grinding dust everywhere.

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

With all the other stuff going on; including having to replace every single joint in my front end due to inferior quality garbage, I finally had some time to work on my stereo some more.

Here's the console that we built, no longer naked. I took our finish bent and welded console to a local upholsterer to have it wrapped in leather.

54710

Here's a picture of it installed with my Android powered head unit:

54711

Here's some fun with my wireless backup camera. I put the car in reverse while it was sitting on the bench (connected to my 12V power supply). It took video of me and didn't break, so it must be decent.

54712

I stayed up really late last night trying to get all that stuff (minus speakers and amps) installed. I was still at it at 1AM and just after I buttoned up the dash and everything else I thought I was done. Then I closed the door and the stupid dome and courtesy lights stayed on! Man, I was not in a good mood. I tried to track it down but it was late and I wasn't happy which isn't a good way to get anything done. So I went to bed.

Of course, I couldn't sleep because I was thinking about the wiring all night. I woke up at about 5:30AM had some coffee and got back at it. With a fresh start I found the problem fairly quickly. I used a ground that I shouldn't have. Once I ran a new one I was fine. Of course, then I had to go to work at my real job........sigh.

Hopefully I can get on to the speakers and amps next. After ANOTHER front end alignment and a couple good nights rest anyway.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

finaly some pictures of the seats. those look nice in there.

good job on the console too.

[sleepertime]

:thumbsup: :superhack:

The car is looking great, I have been following along on the progress.
So what are you initial thoughts on the Pumpkin head unit?

:flag2:

[DKz Garage]

Here are some pictures of my Tiburon seats that people (mainly ClassicCamaro above, haha) were asking for.

54708
54707
54706
54709

Pardon my dust in the last picture, I was working on my "micro tub" at the time and there was grinding dust everywhere.

Awesome! The brackets you made looked like they worked out great.....these are wide seats at the bottom, they are "offset" which makes mounting them a bit more work. Car is coming together nicely.....hope you can make it to Car Craft Nationals next month!

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

finaly some pictures of the seats. those look nice in there.

good job on the console too.

Thanks Vince!

I'm slowly but surely making upgrades to my (sometimes) running and driving project.

:thumbsup: :superhack:

The car is looking great, I have been following along on the progress.
So what are you initial thoughts on the Pumpkin head unit?

:flag2:

So far so good on the Pumpkin unit. The peripherals have given me a little trouble though, mainly the backup camera that came with it. It works, but it loses the signal sometimes. I think it's because of the wireless design. I' still have a little tweaking to do with that. On the other hand, it's easy to replace it with any decent backup camera anyway so not a big deal.

I was also having some trouble getting the front facing camera to record but that was just some settings that had to be just right. Now I've got that working as well

A1hmIa1DgkY

The video isn't the greatest but this isn't a gopro or anything, it's more of a CYA camera in case you need some evidence. That being said, it's still fun to watch the videos and anytime something interesting happens you can just tap the screen and it will save the last so many seconds of video (you can designate how much) in your permanent memory so that it doesn't get deleted.

The sound from the external mic could probaby use a little work also. I'm not sure if it's the position on the dash that's the problem or just the mic itself. HOWEVER; even with the mic problems you can get an only slightly distorted idea of how the exhaust sounds. (skip to 1:25) I continue to be impressed with the Magnaflow exhaust, particularly with how it is quiet at cruising speed but beastly sounding when you get on it.

I bench tested the head unit before I ever installed it but haven't yet installed speakers in the car to comment about sound quality. Maybe I'll have time this weekend to finish up my speaker pods and at lest get the front stage installed.

Awesome! The brackets you made looked like they worked out great.....these are wide seats at the bottom, they are "offset" which makes mounting them a bit more work. Car is coming together nicely.....hope you can make it to Car Craft Nationals next month!

I'm not sure if I'll make it over there or not. I've actually never went. I do like to go around to the local car shows, especially the smaller ones, and I usually make it to automotion in the Dells. I'll have to check and see if my uncle or one of my friends wants to go with me. I'm not yet sure when I'll be in Taiwan either but it'll be somewhere near that time frame.

[sleepertime]

:popcorn2:

When you first posted about that head unit I looked them up and was impressed with price to option ratio, realizing that it was not a typical name brand. After reading your report on it I am willing to give it a try. I have been one to try and do things a little different than the norm. Did you buy the extra cameras or was that part of the deal?
I am planning on mounting mine down low in front of a 2002 Camaro console similar to your setup.

:ups:

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

:popcorn2:

When you first posted about that head unit I looked them up and was impressed with price to option ratio, realizing that it was not a typical name brand. After reading your report on it I am willing to give it a try. I have been one to try and do things a little different than the norm. Did you buy the extra cameras or was that part of the deal?
I am planning on mounting mine down low in front of a 2002 Camaro console similar to your setup.

:ups:
When I purchased it, the backup camera was part of the deal, as well as the external mic. I paid extra (but it was pretty cheap) for the front DVR camera which plugs into one of the USB ports on the head unit. I just thought that if I bought it from the same seller, hopefully it would work without much difficulty. Otherwise, there's no reason you couldn't try another USB camera.

This guy does a good video review of the same unit I have, and below his youtube video is a link to the XDA dev forum thread on this type of unit.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=TIeQHTiuHSM

It's a few months since I've purchased this thing and there may be a better/faster/sexier one out there now so you might want to check into that as well.

Also, I did install the rooted firmware on my unit so I'm not running the stock ROM at the moment.

I guess the biggest thing to remember with these type of head units and Chinese electronics like this in general is that there will be glitches and it won't be as refined as other options out there; however, knowing that going in, it's still well worth the trials and tribulations for the number of cool features you get.

ETA: Oh! If you do buy it, make sure to get the mounting "cage" from them too. I hear that it's just a little bit different in size from a standard double din and that getting the mounting kit from them will save you some headaches. I bought their mouting kits and I still had to sand a little on the cage to get my head unit to slide nicely in and out.

[Bbrock25]

What rims do you have on your car? Hard to tell from the pics?

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

What rims do you have on your car? Hard to tell from the pics?
They are 19" Forgestar CF5V wheels.

You can see a few more pictures in this thread as well as some good discussion on more budget orientated wheel options:
http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=46383

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

I was perusing my old thread as I'm onto another build and looking for part numbers I may have posted. Anyone remember the GM part number for the doohickey that bolts in just above your oil filter that you can tap off of for a pressure gauge. I used one from a corvette that already comes from GM with the drilled and tapped hole in it.

This thingy!
https://www.thirdgen.org/forums/attachments/ltx-lsx/269778d1389087558-where-hook-up-mechanical-zoil1.jpg

I suppose this wouldn't be complete without a Camaro update!
I switched to an Entropy radiator and that took care of my cooling problems. The other one I had, had holes in it. Probably from the factory. Also, because the fill was on the same side as the inlet from the engine and the flow too slow through the radiator (so it seems to me), everything would go out my overflow at WOT.

Other than that, I've been driving the heck out of it. I haven't decided if or when I'll do suspension upgrades yet. I'm not in a hurry, I'm just enjoying it. BTW, 22MPG highway!

[OBeer-WAN-Kenobi]

Yay! Found it.

GM 12551587

Oil Filter Adapter Cover