Canton Racing Oil Pans..

[musclecarmatt]

Hey guys...I was wondering who all else runs canton racing oil pans on here...and wondering about their quality on their oil pans...I replaced my oil pan gasket twice on my 357 SBC...where it leaks on the back lip of the pan in one spot twice...leaks no where else..the block is dry front and rear...leaking around the gasket to pan.....used silicone but still leaks...I used their stud kit with their gasket and pan...had hard time also getting the lock nuts started cause they where binding on the pan...mite end up reusing the stock pan when I pull the motor back out in few weeks....

Matt

[Ron Sutton]

I have ran a lot of brands & prefer Canton. We've had very good results & no problems.

I can't speak to why you are. Best wishes.

[Track Junky]

I had a little trouble with the bolt holes lining up on the last Canton pan I bought. Never had that problem with the first one. Also, keep in mind that the Canton pan for first gen blocks uses a 2nd gen block gasket up front. Cant remember if it used the same for the rear but maybe that's what the issue is.

[musclecarmatt]

yea I have to look at that closely again.....I thought the rear was the same on 1st and 2nd gen blocks they changed the front in 1975 I believe...

[Sieg]

Sealing the oil pan 100% is probably the most frustrating part of a Gen 1 block in my opinion.

I'd call Canton and get their advice.

Is there gasket silicone and metal reinforced?

Did you anally clean the block surface, degrease, then solvent wipe?

This is the product that appears to deliver the best result if clean.

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/images/items/zoom/12DX70_AS01.JPG

That said.....the machine shop that rebuilt my motor and installed a new Milidon pan with FelPro silicone/metal gasket using The Right Stuff managed to make it leak front and rear......:bang:

[intocarss]

I uses this and don't have any issues with just a little silicone under and on top of the gasket in the corners

the rear part of gasket on the main cap is the same size, it's the front that can be different.

Picture is just for refference

[musclecarmatt]

Sealing the oil pan 100% is probably the most frustrating part of a Gen 1 block in my opinion.

I'd call Canton and get their advice.

Is there gasket silicone and metal reinforced?

Did you anally clean the block surface, degrease, then solvent wipe?

This is the product that appears to deliver the best result if clean.

https://www.acklandsgrainger.com/images/items/zoom/12DX70_AS01.JPG

That said.....the machine shop that rebuilt my motor and installed a new Milidon pan with FelPro silicone/metal gasket using The Right Stuff managed to make it leak front and rear......:bang:


I cleaned and used solvent to make sure it was perfectly clean.....I used a moroso 1pc gasket with steel reinforced..used canton's 1pc gasket first time then went with the moroso gasket....to be honest I think its the pan..

[Sieg]

I've heard the FelPro has more meat to compress in the front and rear sealing area. But I haven't had the side by side to compare.

Call Canton and ask them what the deal is.........noting it ain't rocket science. :D

[musclecarmatt]

I've heard the FelPro has more meat to compress in the front and rear sealing area. But I haven't had the side by side to compare.

Call Canton and ask them what the deal is.........noting it ain't rocket science. :D

on the steel reinforced gaskets...can you torque them more then with regular gasket?...factory is 12 ft/lbs ...

[Sieg]

on the steel reinforced gaskets...can you torque them more then with regular gasket?...factory is 12 ft/lbs ...
Not sure, I've over-tightened mine out of frustration and no option other than yanking the motor. :bang:

[Mailbox]

I have welded up cracks on two Canton pans near the rear seal . These were on both one and two piece rear main gaskets for c-4 corvette .
Looking at the moroso next .

[Track Junky]

My first Canton pan was damaged when my timing chain broke through the bottom of my timing chain cover and grabbed the front lip of the pan. I got that pan many years ago and never had any fitment problems with it.
The bolt holes on my recent Canton pan didn't line up which is making me question why the quality wasn't there.
Honestly don't think I will go with Canton for my next pan.

[musclecarmatt]

I was using canton oil pan stud kit...and I think that's what causing my problem which not getting torque properly....I had oil leaking around an oil pan stud....removing those and going with the Fel-pro kit...think it will solve my issue..

[GregWeld]

I was using canton oil pan stud kit...and I think that's what causing my problem which not getting torque properly....I had oil leaking around an oil pan stud....removing those and going with the Fel-pro kit...think it will solve my issue..



No need to do that --- just make sure you put a dab of gasket sealer on each stud before running it into the block... otherwise the oil will climb the threads and you'll never stop that.


You can remove the studs and do it while the motor is in the car - it just takes time! Before your next oil change --- pull most of the studs --- use some brake cleaner with the little red "nozzle" and squirt just a bit into each hole -- watch your face and eyes!! The use a q tip (I buy these with wood sticks instead of the ear cleaning type) and use that with just a little brake cleaner on it to just run around the threaded hole... ONE of TWO q-tips per hole... Clean the stud -- add a dab of gasket sealer (NOT SILICONE SEALER!!) and run them back in.