Let talk trailers!

[John510]

I am shopping for a trailer for my car. Any recommendations? Enclosed/Open?

I see them from 16-24 feet. Is 16ft big enough for a 68 camaro? Do I need a side door? Im new to this trailer buying thing.

[Ketzer]

I'm hoping for some normal conversations on trailers. The last trailer thread was nine million pages long and was about custom built nascar crew trailers... (there was actually some good "normal" info in the beginning of that one but it quickly got off the rails)

My thoughts on open vs enclosed,
Open is ok for short local trips and great weather (and tight budgets). I think you could get away with a shorter trailer if it's open because you can access everywhere.

If you are on the interstate with big trucks and going out of town, and staying at hotels, and the weather there and back could be rainy or nasty, I think save up and go enclosed. Enclosed has to be longer, you have to be able to get in there and tie the car down.


Jeff-

[71RS/SS396]

My first question is what are you going to pull it with?

[TheJDMan]

I agree, the tow vehicle makes a huge difference. I have a 20' enclosed trailer 103" wide and I tow it with a 2500HD Duramax. This makes a nice towing combination. I previously had a 1/2 ton Chevy when I first purchased this trailer and it was totally inadequate for towing a 20 footer. In fact it was downright dangerous at highway speeds mixing with semis on the interstate. I doubt you could fit a 1st gen Camaro inside a 16' enclosed trailer. I would recommend a 20' which is very common with tons of them to choose from. Also checkout RacingJunk.com for new and used trailers for sale.

[96z28ss]

I have an old open trailer. When its time to replace it. I think Im going to do one of these renegade trailers.
5XejIY-NB-s

[Revved]

I've been hauling my cars around with an enclosed 24' V Nose. Be sure to get one with a dove tail (floor slopes down inside the trailer to the door) for better ground clearance. If you've got the extra cash that driver side escape door is nice... something I'll be looking for on the next trailer I buy. You could probably get by with a 20' but I'm constantly running engines, tires, and misc parts around with me and the extra couple feet are nice to have. I put in some cabinets up front to hold straps, tools, etc..

This one I have is a Cargo Mate. I would not buy another one. It wasn't that much cheaper than a name trailer and I've had to reweld and reinforce nearly half the frame where it supports the box for metal fatigue. I've probably put about 40k miles on it over the last 6 years and its all be on paved roads so no excuse for that.

Mustangs fit easy... the 70 Chevelle I just finished up was snug side to side. I'm glad it was a convertible so I didn't have to open the door to get out.

Good luck!

[Lenie]

I have an old open trailer. When its time to replace it. I think Im going to do one of these renegade trailers.
5XejIY-NB-s

Now if it would only become enclosed the same way!:D

[JB64CHEVELLE]

I have a 27' pace enclosed tandem axle trailer and so far it has worked out great. I love the little extra room up front for all the extra's you always bring along. I would spend the money on the enclosed one because it keeps the car cleaner and better protected while towing and when not in use it makes for great storage.

[96z28ss]

Now if it would only become enclosed the same way!:D

just add :G-Dub:

[John510]

My first question is what are you going to pull it with?

I have a 2007 Chevy Avalanche

[OVRKILL]

Like I was taught in the military...you travel light, you travel right. GO ALUMINUM! I'm pulling a 25' v-nose behind my 2012 1/2 ton. Walls, floor and ceiling are 16" centers, 3500lb axles (each), brakes, etc......2700lbs total. 3500lb car and I'm well within my 10,000lb capacity of my little 5.3.

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w291/lpe403/Trailer/20130823_120704_zps45c87e76.jpg
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w291/lpe403/Trailer/NEO20ALUM20FLOORING20CARHAULER20475_zpsc273e245.jp g

[EBMC]

Like I was taught in the military...you travel light, you travel right. GO ALUMINUM! I'm pulling a 25' v-nose behind my 2012 1/2 ton. Walls, floor and ceiling are 16" centers, 3500lb axles (each), brakes, etc......2700lbs total. 3500lb car and I'm well within my 10,000lb capacity of my little 5.3.

http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w291/lpe403/Trailer/20130823_120704_zps45c87e76.jpg
http://i179.photobucket.com/albums/w291/lpe403/Trailer/NEO20ALUM20FLOORING20CARHAULER20475_zpsc273e245.jp g

What brand trailer is that?

[71RS/SS396]

I have a 2007 Chevy Avalanche

My personal opinion is that you really should have at least a 2500 truck to pull an enclosed trailer. I tow a lot since I travel all over the country going to events, I've probably towed my trailer 100K miles since 2007 and there's been occasions I wished I had a dually, a 1500 might be fine on flat ground for short trips but throw in mountains, high winds, crappy roads and you'll wish you had the heavier duty truck. My experience has also been that the trailer companies give you inaccurate weights on the trailer and they weigh more than they state, I was told that my aluminum enclosed weighed 3,500#'s and when I weighed it it actually weighs 5,600#'s.

Trailer recommendations:

24 ft v-nose is the perfect size for a car and extra gear/equipment

Get at least 5,000/5,500# axles, the brakes/hubs are bigger and you'll have less trouble over the long run.

Imho a winch is invaluable, you can use it for loading and unloading your car and loading cars that don't run.

A generator is also very handy have.

I found the drivers side door to not be all that helpful since the issue is usually the car door hitting trailer fender well that causes the problem getting out of the car. I use my winch to load my car so I don't have to be a contortionist to get out the car once it's loaded.

The storage cabinets that typically come with the trailers are not the most efficient to use, they are basically an open cavity with a door on the front, no shelves, no draws, so everything ends up in a pile inside, my next trailer I'm buying it empty inside and buying moduline cabinets that fit my needs.

[Streetking]

I have 3 trailers. A 20ft flatbed, 22ft all aluminum Trailex and a 28ft Cargo Craft. The flatbed is great, easy to load quickly, strapping the car down easily ect. The 28ft Cargo Craft is perfect for my race car, plenty of room for car, extra wheels, tools and pit bike. My favorite trailer is the Trailex. It's small, very light and very easy to load. It doubles as a place to sit and watch with plenty of ventilation if your at a car show or race. Since it's so light, you can pull it with a small SUV with ease. Just make sure you have enough truck to pull the trailer you choose.
http://www.fototime.com/18BBAF946F47A9D/xlarge.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/A3BFFF56ABF5C59/xlarge.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/F72328F01954F19/xlarge.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/EDC1CAD3EE88692/xlarge.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/D7320E5BEAA80DC/xlarge.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/5041C27FB62CEC6/xlarge.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/ECA7C53E12C7B15/xlarge.jpg
http://www.fototime.com/A4A1CCA318150C2/xlarge.jpg

[DOOM]

Aluminum all the way! I have a 36 foot Legend that we use for snowmobiling and our cars . I had same trailer in steel it was like pulling a barge!

[GregWeld]

Anything less than 65' just won't be...... Okay just kidding.



A couple things to think about "in general" about a trailer.

Where you live and how nice your car is determines open or enclosed. In the NorthWET we need enclosed trailers.

Aluminum costs more - but you will probably either need an aluminum trailer or a new truck -- your choice.

Just because a truck is "rated" to pull "X" weight -- doesn't mean it will do so "well". Again -- depending on where you live. Hills and mountains need a truck with some grunt... FLATLANDERS can pull with a Volkswagon.

FANCY INTERIORS are a big money maker for the dealer - and a giant waste of money for the buyer. IT'S A TRAILER -- you load it -- close it up and park it. The car is the fancy part. So unless you just have to have a trailer with all the bells and whistles (they're nice - don't get me wrong - it's the way I buy stuff - but it IS NOT cost effective).

Side exit doors are fantastic.... the bigger the better IMHO (48")


24' foot for an ENCLOSED trailer ---- because with a trailer (enclosed) you want to take "stuff". So that gives you room for a rolling type toolbox to be bolted in -- or some cabinets for "stuff"... etc. Again - this depends on how you intend to use the trailer. I take longer trips - so want tools - tires - clothes - rags - spare stuff I will never need as long as I have the spare stuff.


A WINCH IS A MUST OWN ITEM for a trailer. Period. Car breaks -- winch it on -- a buddies car breaks - winch it on... loading and unloading the car -- WINCH IT ON AND OFF.... if you do that - then you don't really need an exit door... but they're nice to have. MAKE THE WINCH 'wireless remote control'..... that way you can steer the car from the bottom of the ramp and get 'er all lined up etc.


Trailers hold their value pretty well -- if they're taken care of. So buying a used one isn't a huge money saver - but there is no shortage of trailers - what there is is a huge difference in brand to brand and what you CAN spend on one. Super cheap poorly made and super expensive deluxe everything. It's your wallet. The cheap junk seems to get to the show just about the same as I do. Depends on how much you plan to use it. It's a value judgement and use issue.

[DOOM]

Greg I think post#2 was for you.:captain1: :lol:

[Vegas69]

I pulled a 24' Haulmark enclosed with my Tundra which is supposed to be a 1500. Pulled it great up and down the large grades between here and Southern CA even in the Summer. Temp gauges never moved. You will need a brake controller.

I don't see the point of an open trailer unless you are going to local events. If you're not racing, you should be driving. Otherwise you need the weather break and security.

[GregWeld]

If you buy one with some cabinetry -- make sure they're DRAWERS.... And I personally found almost nothing useful with the overhead cabinets. Not much fit up there... The drawers held all manor of stuff.

I carried a very tiny air compressor -

http://www.grainger.com/Grainger/THOMAS-Portable-Electric-Air-Compressor-5Z683?gclid=CPn516btorkCFRRk7AodG2AAZw&cm_mmc=PPC:GooglePLA-_-Pneumatics-_-Air%20Compressors%20and%20Vacuum%20Pumps-_-5Z683&ci_src=17588969&ci_sku=5Z683&ef_id=UV1-JQAAAHRHgBYs:20130829142210:s

because my 2000 watt Honda would not start the "pancake style" (the type framers use for nail guns) version I have... the start load was just too much for it. LIGHT IS THE NAME OF THE GAME HERE... you're having to carry and store this stuff.


The light little Honda 2000 was/is a gem. I can make a pot of coffee -- charge a battery operated tool - run a battery charger -- lights - etc. Used it all the time.

Speaking of lights --- you see trailers with the big built in Halogen lights on the sides... in 15 years I used mine ONCE! Seriously... they're never where you need them - unless you're a professional race team in the pits... Portable lighting (great flashlight) is far more useful. Or use the little Honda to fire up a drop light.


Go to PITPAL PRODUCTS.... and deck out your trailer with strap hangers - jack storage - and anything else that needs to be stored. I love this stuff!


http://www.pitpal.com


These folks CALL YOU AFTER THE SHIPMENT TO SEE IF YOU GOT EVERYTHING AND THAT EVERYTHING IS ALL RIGHT! Amazing.


And go to and watch the videos of how to do things right at at Mac's Custom Tie Downs!



https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=btRWr3OO-hs&feature=player_embedded



I buy all my tie down stuff from them -- great products -- and the videos of how not to do things are most helpful.


http://www.macscustomtiedowns.com

[GregWeld]

Greg I think post#2 was for you.:captain1: :lol:



Oh I got that..... but we had fun didn't we!?!?

[Ketzer]

Greg I think post#2 was for you.:captain1: :lol:

:angel: :peepwall:

[Ketzer]

And go to and watch the videos of how to do things right at at Mac's Custom Tie Downs!


That's a good link GW, I'm going to buy a fresh set from them! Mine are getting a little old and frayed.

Questions on tying down that weren't exactly covered in that video,
Do you guys only tie to the suspension? or do you go to the frame and compress/preload the suspension? (I understood preloading and traveling that way to be very bad for the shocks?)

Do you x-over the straps to keep the car centered so it won't walk around in the trailer? (I don't always do it up front, but definitely in the rear because it seems to move around the most).


Jeff-


Jeff-

[DRJDVM's '69]

I bought a used 20 ft enclosed about 3 years ago...great investment. 24 ft would have been nice, but not required.

One other thing to consider that no one has mentions...where do you keep it? If you don't have a spot at home or a friend with land you can store it on, don't forget about the cost to have it at some storage facility. For awhile I had mine at a lot that charged $55/month for it to sit in an open fully paved lot. I didn't keep anything of value that could be hauled away in it, since a lot of these places have break ins.... So it was costing me $$ every month for it to just sit there...

My advice....go very basic and used, then add the little things yourself...winch is a must...and some storage but depends on what you are going to haul and do with it.....enclosed at a minimum of 20 ft, better if you can get 24...

Unless you are shooting for bragging rights, don't get all the fancy graphics, diamond plate, SS cabinets etc...... way better to use that $$ towards practical stuff

And don't scrimp on the tow vehicle...when it comes to towing "good enough" will come back and bite you in the ass...

[GregWeld]

That's a good link GW, I'm going to buy a fresh set from them! Mine are getting a little old and frayed.

Questions on tying down that weren't exactly covered in that video,
Do you guys only tie to the suspension? or do you go to the frame and compress/preload the suspension? (I understood preloading and traveling that way to be very bad for the shocks?)

Do you x-over the straps to keep the car centered so it won't walk around in the trailer? (I don't always do it up front, but definitely in the rear because it seems to move around the most).


Jeff-


Jeff-



Personally I use straps with D rings on both ends - run those THRU THE WHEELS --- and then strap to them. I only buy the "direct hook" straps so the jack handle is close to the tie down ring. My older straps that didn't have that direct hook -- they sell a conversion kit. Once you've used them - it's the only way to go! And thru the wheels (with a cover on the strap that they sell) is So FRIGGING EASY! I don't even have to lay down to do it! (not that kind of do it either you morons! LOL)


Otherwise I go over the axle or some part of the suspension... I NEVER go to the frame. The suspension will allow the car to float and bounce up and down and ride nice while keeping the car in place. Tie to the frame and hit a big bump and the car is jerking and yanking on the straps! That's a no no.

I never cross the straps unless that's the only way I have to --- they chafe on each other --- AND --- should one get loose or break - the other strap is then pulling the car to the side rather than straight back (or forward). The car is going to move FORWARD in breaking --- that's the big load.... so I want that tight as hell ---- and straight pull back to the floor tie downs.


I also put my cars in neutral so as not to be stressing the transmissions..... even thought they shouldn't be moving fore or aft -- you're pre-loading the parking pall or the gears when you're strapping them in.

[John510]

Thanks for the tips. I don't plan on getting a new truck so ill look for an aluminum trailer.

[Ketzer]

Probably one of the most important things to me is the height of the rear opening. Not to be confused with ceiling height. I used an enclosed trailer for years for my lawn business. The rear opening was 72 inches high. I am 74 inches high. If I was hot, sweaty, tired, frustrated, beat, exhausted, distracted, and I went bee-bopping up the ramp without tilting my head slightly... I would get a nice little goose egg right on the crown of my thick skull. I hit the floor seeing stars on more than one occasion. You guys that are under 6ft have it made!!


Jeff-

[DBasher]

I've only owned open trailers and have towed all over the western states this way. The thing with an open trailer, besides the weather, is everyone wants to talk about the car on deck. Sometimes it's a lot of fun and leads to finding more projects. :confused59:

With a 1/2ton I'd go as light as you can afford and something that is more than just a box like the V nose. I live up in the Seattle area and am surrounded by hills and mountains. My 1500 Silverado will do what ever I want it to but it's working pretty hard with an enclosed. You'll notice if the winds blowin! I had a warmed up Powerstroke that didn't care what it was pulling, up or down a hill, didn't matter. I miss that truck.

Anyone have a camera mounted to keep an eye on the inside of the trailer while underway?

:thumbsup:
Dan

[Blake Foster]

Personally I use straps with D rings on both ends - run those THRU THE WHEELS --- and then strap to them. I only buy the "direct hook" straps so the jack handle is close to the tie down ring. My older straps that didn't have that direct hook -- they sell a conversion kit. Once you've used them - it's the only way to go! And thru the wheels (with a cover on the strap that they sell) is So FRIGGING EASY! I don't even have to lay down to do it! (not that kind of do it either you morons! LOL)


Otherwise I go over the axle or some part of the suspension... I NEVER go to the frame. The suspension will allow the car to float and bounce up and down and ride nice while keeping the car in place. Tie to the frame and hit a big bump and the car is jerking and yanking on the straps! That's a no no.

I never cross the straps unless that's the only way I have to --- they chafe on each other --- AND --- should one get loose or break - the other strap is then pulling the car to the side rather than straight back (or forward). The car is going to move FORWARD in breaking --- that's the big load.... so I want that tight as hell ---- and straight pull back to the floor tie downs.


I also put my cars in neutral so as not to be stressing the transmissions..... even thought they shouldn't be moving fore or aft -- you're pre-loading the parking pall or the gears when you're strapping them in.


is that all.................. you done now???? :BlahBlah: :BlahBlah: lmao

I have a 26' v nose, wouldn't go any smaller, by the time you load your junk in it tool box jack tent chairs ect you will be out of room.
put a winch in it FOR SURE, that is why we built in the tow/tie down loops on the subframe. I HATE trying to climb in and out of the car window when in the trailer,
I tow with a 1 ton diesel Dually wouldn't do it any other way.(well that is a lie if I could do it the way GREG does it that would be better I don't need sway bars on the hitch super stable. and Ask GREG how it tows on the grapevine lol
I think the dually is the only way to go both for safety and stability, it does not overload the tires and the brakes are much bigger, oh and the power and fuel mileage is usually better,

[Sparks67]

Stielow had this brand of trailer on his facebook page this past year.
http://www.montrosetrailers.com/ He wanted one that he could pull with his 1/2 ton truck.

Jeff

173QXK8T0sk


Here is another brand that is more aerodynamic, but I suspect it is costly.

http://www.bre2.net/mm5/merchant.mvc?Screen=PROD&Product_Code=bre2_aerovault_trailer&Category_Code=car_trailers

[Ron in SoCal]

So FRIGGING EASY! I don't even have to lay down to do it! (not that kind of do it either you morons! LOL)



That's worth a repost :lmao: :lmao:

:cheers:

[glassman]

it took me a reread of your repost for me to get it :lmao:

[John510]

Are these decent? They are around 6K new for a 20 ft

http://www.interstatecargo.com/carhauler.php#overview

[GregWeld]

I'm just going to add one more thing -- now that you've posted asking about Interstate as a brand....


Just shoot me if you want to -- but I don't think ANY OF US can wear out a trailer of ANY brand.... I've drug mine all over the place without issue (regular maintenance!).... and I don't think I could live long enough to actually wear it out.


How much towing you going to do?? Seriously -- 4 or 5 thousand miles a year??

[John510]

Id guess 1000 miles a year.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Are these decent? They are around 6K new for a 20 ft

http://www.interstatecargo.com/carhauler.php#overview

I have an interstate, bought it in 08 from a guy that bought it new 4 months prior then lost his storage space.

good trailer but even better since there are 2 dealer/service centers close to us.

get the 24 footer....you'll thank me later.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

buy used....did you see this one?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/4034620978.html

hell i'll sell you mine and buy that one. :y0!:

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4027546617.html

[Streetking]

[QUOTE=Vince@MSperfab;502194]buy used....did you see this one?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/4034620978.html

Now that's a deal!

[GregWeld]

I too -- would shop used FIRST.... because these really are just a box on wheels .... but remember they can live at the coast etc and if they're steel - they can and do rust up! Also -- there's no odometer on a trailer... so service items such as wheel bearing and brakes and the AGE of the tires is important!


ALWAYS check the dates on the tires.... NO MORE THAN 6 years old -- so if they're already 5 years old - you're going to be replacing a set shortly.


Brakes on this size trailer are almost always electric... if the trailer doesn't get used much - or has been sitting - they can be rusted up and not working well.


WHEEL BEARINGS are a critical item! Overlook them and you can have a big trailer fire and lose everything... I almost lost my load when pulling my brother in laws POS trailer to AriDzona. Their trailer was a POS pile of junk but my '32 Ford isn't. It was real real close to bursting into flames. Lesson learned there.


So here's what I'm trying to tell ya --- IF you buy used --- plan to spend $500 plus on it IMMEDIATELY at a dealer getting it serviced and road worthy. More if you have to replace tires.

[GregWeld]

Are these decent? They are around 6K new for a 20 ft




Please do yourself a HUGE favor and DO NOT buy a 20' ENCLOSED trailer....



24' minimum for an enclosed. YOU WILL THANKS ALL OF US LATER.

[clill]

[QUOTE=Vince@MSperfab;502194]buy used....did you see this one?
http://sfbay.craigslist.org/sby/cto/4034620978.html

Now that's a deal!

I look at those pics and think wow that it great then I see the car in the nose on the lift is completely ahead of the axles. I have no idea what he is towing it with but that is alot of tongue weight.

[Blake Foster]

Are these decent? They are around 6K new for a 20 ft

http://www.interstatecargo.com/carhauler.php#overview

Mine is an Interstate trailer from 2002 and it has a lot of miles on it, still in good shape only issue is the inside wood panels strips have started to come off but no big deal I have not had any problems with it and it does not get babied at all.

but if you can swing it. get at least a 24 the 20 WILL be too Small!!

[Blake Foster]

[QUOTE=Streetking;502202]

I look at those pics and think wow that it great then I see the car in the nose on the lift is completely ahead of the axles. I have no idea what he is towing it with but that is alot of tongue weight.

first 24" trailer I have EVER seen that holds 2 cars lol

[FlameBroiled]

I too have a 24' its perfect. I would not want smaller, but I would like larger to fit two cars.

As stated a winch is a must!! I don't own an open deck but I borrow them and those too are a must. You can move things on the open that you can't move in the enclosed and vice versa.

Here in Vancouver we get a lot of rain so one that doesn't leak is ideal. Mine seemed to find water through the seams and floors. Had to refloor and reseal the whole trailer and rewire it. Oh and new tires and new bearings.... which had to be done on the side of mountain hwy!!! Now I keep and extra set with me.

Good Luck in your search.

[John510]

Thanks Vince I emailed the guy with the 24' one with lift.

[DBasher]

I'm thinking those aren't full size cars, dwarfs or mini stocks. Cool trailer though.

[Flash68]

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4027546617.html

[Vince@Meanstreets]

thats a nice one too cause it has the gate extension. Low car must.

[youthpastor]

well it's been said a few times....GET A 24. I love it, you always have extra stuff to put in it besides the car.


Oh ya, Lojak stashed in a trailer is a great way to make sure you KEEP it.
My friend had his recovered in 24 hrs stashed in a large property. They would have never found it. The D-bags were parting it out for the metal.

oh and the cops found a few other hot cars while they were recovering the trailer

[GregWeld]

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4027546617.html




That's the trailer I'd go for over the used race car trailer!



Another thing just for info ----- winches in trailers only have to overcome the ROLLING weight of the car --- they're not pulling you out of a ditch or up a hill.... so 10,000 lb winch is ridiculous overkill for what we're doing... look at the rolling rating on them if they have one. I think my winch (gave the trailer away to my brother in law or I'd go look) was an "off brand" (meaning not a WARN) 8,000 lb -- only because the dealer didn't have the 6,000 lb in stock at the time.


If you're so inclined as to have a Honda generator - you COULD buy a 110V winch and run it off the gen set.... eliminating a battery. Just info to think about again - but 99% of the set ups I've seen all have a dedicated battery for the winch in the trailer. THEN YA GOT TO KEEP IT CHARGED if you let it sit for long periods.... or when you go to winch something on it's dead. It should be charging off the tow vehicle when towing.... but some batteries don't hold a good charge when sitting around in cold temps etc for months at a time.

[Ketzer]

http://sfbay.craigslist.org/pen/cto/4027546617.html

Used ones seem to be the same price as brand new ones?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8284-NEW-Enclosed-Cargo-Trailer-2014-Atlas-8-5x24-10k-GVW-Heavy-Duty-w-Ramp-dr-/231034310422?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cab7cf16


Jeff-

[71RS/SS396]

THEN YA GOT TO KEEP IT CHARGED if you let it sit for long periods.... or when you go to winch something on it's dead. It should be charging off the tow vehicle when towing.... but some batteries don't hold a good charge when sitting around in cold temps etc for months at a time.

That's why I put one of these on mine http://www.batterystuff.com/solar-chargers/BSP60WK.html

[Track Junky]

Are these decent? They are around 6K new for a 20 ft

http://www.interstatecargo.com/carhauler.php#overview

I have the Interstate Supercoach they have listed for 12K and talked them down to $7500 out the door. Great trailer so far......all exterior lights are LED, two interior lights, and exterior loading lights just above the rear door. I disagree with anybody that says 20' isn't long enough. I have plenty of room up front for loading tools, air tank, three 5 gallon fuel cans, chairs, table, cooler, canopy, etc, up front and if I wanted to build some cabinets up front I could do that also but don't find it necessary as I'd rather not be towing that much more weight. Just to get an idea of how much room is left up front the front of my car stops a bit past the door in the first pic.

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/24Interstatetrailor001.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/24Interstatetrailor004.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/24Interstatetrailor007.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/24Interstatetrailor006.jpg

[James OLC]

Having just went through this I'll chime in on my experience and a couple of observations.

First off - and most frustrating of all - if you are on the West Coast (or Canada) you are going to miss out on some great deals. If you look at Racing Junk or Ebay (or listen to about 80% of the people on the forums) you'll see a ton of awesome looking trailer for sale at dirt cheap priced. None of which will be anywhere near you. Then when you look locally you'll gradually become more and more frustrated that you're paying at least 2K more than what anyone in Wisconsin would even consider to be a good price. That's just reality.

Second - size - I think that the sweet spot (depending on your truck and your trailer towing tolerance) is 24 feet (for an enclosed). 20 feet will work but you lose flexibility for carrying extras and the like. 28 feet is oh-so-tempting but it is a lot bigger than it seems (that said I know of a great deal on a 28 in CA that I was sorely tempted to act on despite being convinced my truck would have been too small). Focus on 20 - 24 feet.

Third - capacity - 3500 pound axles are probably too small 8 times out of 10. Figure that your trailer (at 24 feet) will weight 3500 pounds +/- meaning that you have 3500 pounds -/+ of rated capacity left. You'll see some axles rated at 4950 pounds (9900 pounds total) but they are really 5000 or 5200 pound axles derated to keep the trailer capacity below 10,000 which has some extra DOT implications for the manufacturer. At 10,000 pounds you have 6000 + of capacity which should be more than enough.

Fourth - layout and accessories - there are ton's of cargo trailers with car hauler options and (by and large) they are all the same. Some have better plywood on the inside and some move the breakaway battery around but beyond that I didn't see much (amongst like manufacturers) - at least until you get to actual "race car trailers" like a Haulmark Edge or the like. So when looking try to find something where someone has already invested in some goodies but, at the same time, be mindful of the effects of those goodies. The 24 with the lift looks cool but I have to wonder how much weight that adds. E-track, O-track, cabinets, spare tires, insulation, lighting, walls, ceiling, floor, shore power, generator, winch, etc. - get as much as you can for your money.

If I had not bought a trailer I would be really looking hard at the Pace - good brand, perfect size, looks like great condition and a fair price.

I wound up with this one - a 24 foot Blaze with 4900 pound axles.

http://www.onelapcamaro.com/2013%20misc/Truck%20and%20trailer.jpg

I will be adding a load leveling hitch and a RideTech TowPro setup to balance things a bit better.

http://www.onelapcamaro.com/2013%20misc/Trailer%20inside%20looking%20back.jpg

It's been fully insulated and pre-wired for AC and has O-track on the floor and E-track on both walls. I'll probably add some carpet to midway up the walls in the future.

http://www.onelapcamaro.com/2013%20misc/Trailer%20inside%20looking%20forward.jpg

I has 120-volt AC shore power for the lighting and has a battery charger and inverter pre-wired. I'll add an OPTIMA Blue Top and a winch this weekend. Greg was spot on on the winch ratings - unless you foresee a day when you're trying to winch a car in that no longer rolls freely you're fine with a "smaller" rated winch. Remotes, however, can be an important consideration.

http://www.onelapcamaro.com/2013%20misc/Trailer%20cabinets.jpg

And it has some decent pre-built cabinets and workspace. I'll add some stuff from Pit Pal to equip it better but for the same price as a new bar cargo trailer of the same size it's better suited to what I want to do. I lost the warranty but it came with 2 spares - and it has the EZ lube axles which makes maintenance a bit easier.

Good luck with your hunting.

[John510]

You guys have some awesome trailers.

[Flash68]

Used ones seem to be the same price as brand new ones?

http://www.ebay.com/itm/8284-NEW-Enclosed-Cargo-Trailer-2014-Atlas-8-5x24-10k-GVW-Heavy-Duty-w-Ramp-dr-/231034310422?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item35cab7cf16


Jeff-

Possibly. That's a different brand though and I do not know enough about all the brands to really comment.

Just like cars and trucks and real estate, there are usually premiums (some large, some small) paid for "stuff" in California.

Now where's that gooseneck trailer thread of GW's.... there's gotta be some good info in there somewhere. :headscratch:

[Flash68]

James, that is a kick ass trailer. And we all know you did your research and hunting. Fellow Dirtfisher there I see.

I have the Interstate Supercoach they have listed for 12K and talked them down to $7500 out the door. Great trailer so far......all exterior lights are LED, two interior lights, and exterior loading lights just above the rear door. I disagree with anybody that says 20' isn't long enough. I have plenty of room up front for loading tools, air tank, three 5 gallon fuel cans, chairs, table, cooler, canopy, etc, up front and if I wanted to build some cabinets up front I could do that also but don't find it necessary as I'd rather not be towing that much more weight. Just to get an idea of how much room is left up front the front of my car stops a bit past the door in the first pic.

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/24Interstatetrailor001.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/24Interstatetrailor004.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/24Interstatetrailor007.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/24Interstatetrailor006.jpg

G, your photos are all gone now. You must have moved something in photobucket. I know, photobucket does pretty much suck. :smiley_smack:
Can you make those work again? I'd like to see them again.

I like that you have been able to make the 20 footer work. My parking pad on the side of my house is pretty tight and I think a 24 would be a stretch whereas a 20 could make it. It's damn tight and if the 20 might be the winning formula.

Brett is bringing his 24 footer (Todd's old trailer) up this coming week -- maybe I will have Brett do a test run backing it in.

[Track Junky]

Her ya go Dave. I was doing some organizing. Didn't realize it was going to remove pics.

http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/Interstate%20Trailer/24trailor001.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/Interstate%20Trailer/24Interstatetrailor008.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/Interstate%20Trailer/24Interstatetrailor007.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/Interstate%20Trailer/24Interstatetrailor004.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/Interstate%20Trailer/24Interstatetrailor005.jpg
http://i851.photobucket.com/albums/ab73/Gitter_Dun/Interstate%20Trailer/24Interstatetrailor006.jpg

[intocarss]

Having just went through this I'll chime in on my experience and a couple of observations.

First off - and most frustrating of all - if you are on the West Coast (or Canada) you are going to miss out on some great deals. If you look at Racing Junk or Ebay (or listen to about 80% of the people on the forums) you'll see a ton of awesome looking trailer for sale at dirt cheap priced. None of which will be anywhere near you. Then when you look locally you'll gradually become more and more frustrated that you're paying at least 2K more than what anyone in Wisconsin would even consider to be a good price. That's just reality.

Second - size - I think that the sweet spot (depending on your truck and your trailer towing tolerance) is 24 feet (for an enclosed). 20 feet will work but you lose flexibility for carrying extras and the like. 28 feet is oh-so-tempting but it is a lot bigger than it seems (that said I know of a great deal on a 28 in CA that I was sorely tempted to act on despite being convinced my truck would have been too small). Focus on 20 - 24 feet.

Third - capacity - 3500 pound axles are probably too small 8 times out of 10. Figure that your trailer (at 24 feet) will weight 3500 pounds +/- meaning that you have 3500 pounds -/+ of rated capacity left. You'll see some axles rated at 4950 pounds (9900 pounds total) but they are really 5000 or 5200 pound axles derated to keep the trailer capacity below 10,000 which has some extra DOT implications for the manufacturer. At 10,000 pounds you have 6000 + of capacity which should be more than enough.

Fourth - layout and accessories - there are ton's of cargo trailers with car hauler options and (by and large) they are all the same. Some have better plywood on the inside and some move the breakaway battery around but beyond that I didn't see much (amongst like manufacturers) - at least until you get to actual "race car trailers" like a Haulmark Edge or the like. So when looking try to find something where someone has already invested in some goodies but, at the same time, be mindful of the effects of those goodies. The 24 with the lift looks cool but I have to wonder how much weight that adds. E-track, O-track, cabinets, spare tires, insulation, lighting, walls, ceiling, floor, shore power, generator, winch, etc. - get as much as you can for your money.

If I had not bought a trailer I would be really looking hard at the Pace - good brand, perfect size, looks like great condition and a fair price.

I wound up with this one - a 24 foot Blaze with 4900 pound axles.


Good luck with your hunting. 100% Correct. Also some trailer co's have 5500# axles and make a 26' box.. My 1998 Wells Cargo "autowagon" is a great trailer http://wellscargo.com/

[Flash68]

I am assuming most of you have the 8.5 foot (102") versions instead of the 8 foot (96") width?

[RdHuggr68]

I've been hauling my cars around with an enclosed 24' V Nose. Be sure to get one with a dove tail (floor slopes down inside the trailer to the door) for better ground clearance. If you've got the extra cash that driver side escape door is nice... something I'll be looking for on the next trailer I buy. You could probably get by with a 20' but I'm constantly running engines, tires, and misc parts around with me and the extra couple feet are nice to have. I put in some cabinets up front to hold straps, tools, etc..

This one I have is a Cargo Mate. I would not buy another one. It wasn't that much cheaper than a name trailer and I've had to reweld and reinforce nearly half the frame where it supports the box for metal fatigue. I've probably put about 40k miles on it over the last 6 years and its all be on paved roads so no excuse for that.

Mustangs fit easy... the 70 Chevelle I just finished up was snug side to side. I'm glad it was a convertible so I didn't have to open the door to get out.

Good luck!

I bought a trailer with drivers side escape door, wouild not ddo it again. The wheel wells for the trailer hit the drivers door, I can just squeeze out the door when it hits the wheel well. Plus just another opening to let dust in and weatherstripping to go bad.

[intocarss]

I am assuming most of you have the 8.5 foot (102") versions instead of the 8 foot (96") width? YES :thumbsup:

[RdHuggr68]

I have a 24 foot gooseneck and will never use a bumper pull again. I don't miss the bouncing along the interstate every time you hit a bump. Bought my trailer in Nebraska, they only build them when you order them and build them to your specs. All LED lighting insulated with aluminum interior walls for around $11,000Car sits in the trailer all the time plus I live iin an area with gravel roads, the car never gets dusty. It is a great trialer. Was built by S&S Welding.

[DRJDVM's '69]

Never understood the whole driver side exit door..... the limiting factor is the car door hitting the fenderwell....so no matter what, if you drive the car in, you may have to climb out the window....if there's no door you just walk along side the car and out the back, why do you need a door on the side?

I disagree with the minimum being 24 ft....it really depends if you are going to haul a ton of extra stuff with you on a regular basis. I can fit my Barracuda in my 20 ft and still have plenty of room up front if I wanted to have a full sized tool box, some tires etc etc

The 24 ft would be nice, but the 20 ft works just fine...

I'd look at it just like a welder.....most guys will do just fine with a 110v welder...but years down the road, you may outgrow it and wish you had gotten the 220v..so if you can afford the 220 now, get it...otherwise make due with the 110v.....

[Sparks67]

Never understood the whole driver side exit door..... the limiting factor is the car door hitting the fenderwell....so no matter what, if you drive the car in, you may have to climb out the window....if there's no door you just walk along side the car and out the back, why do you need a door on the side?


Here is a company that removes the fender as well.

C6Tjs3cjwD0

[Sparks67]

Never understood the whole driver side exit door..... the limiting factor is the car door hitting the fenderwell....


KC Slider

giq9zuW0COM

[GregWeld]

Only thing I can say about the KC Slider is "that's really cool -- right up until it doesn't work right...."



Re - SIDE DOORS.....



I don't care what anyone says -- they're handy as hell. With RaceRamps I can get the nose of the Nomad high enough to clear the wheel well and open the doors....


Having said that --- A WINCH overcomes every load and unload issue you can think of -- so that's priority one.


I agree with NED on the smaller trailer issue.... if you're really trying to pinch pennys (at which point I'd tell you to take up bowling).... I've had many times where it's not just my cars going into the trailer --- it's when you're helping your buddy and the car comes in boxes -- or you've got bikes and stuff to add to the mix -- or you want to haul a sofa AND your car down to the condo you just bought in the dessert.... or went to a car show and just had to have something you found at the swap meet....

One of my favorite sayings is --- Better to have it and not need it - then to need it and not have it.


Carry on!

[Vince@Meanstreets]

I'm with Greg.

My first trailer was an open 16 and we always thought. Damn wish we had another foot. Picked up a new 20 haulmark ( pos) and thought, damn wish we had another foot. Returned that one and picked up a used 24 and it's perfect.

You'll notice you'll find more used 24's than 20's. For a few bucks more go for the 24. be patient and shop smart and you may find a good deal.

I hope you picked up that one with the extended lift deck.

[GregWeld]

You guys have some awesome trailers.

Now where's that gooseneck trailer thread of GW's.... there's gotta be some good info in there somewhere. :headscratch:

HAHAHAHAHAHAHAH!!! Now THIS is a trailer!!!


Okay okay --- just put the guns down!!




http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Toterhome/file-155.jpg (http://s919.photobucket.com/user/gregweld/media/Toterhome/file-155.jpg.html)

[ironworks]

One of my local customers just bought a 24ft featherlight and it's very nice.

[TheJDMan]

I have a 2007 Chevy Avalanche

That's not much of a tow vehicle. It would not safely pull any enclosed trailer large enough to carry the car. If you plan to keep that truck you would be better off with an open trailer.

[GregWeld]

That's not much of a tow vehicle.




That's the way to start a dialogue! HAHAHAHAHA



So what he's really trying to say is ---- just because the rating on the truck (any vehicle) is "X" ---- doesn't mean it will do "X" well.... it only means that it CAN if it has to.


A volkswagon will pull an airplane --- on a flat runway --- and very very slowly and might be completely worn out in the end... but it "could" do it (hypothetically).


What's more important is the weight of the towing vehicle vs the towed item --- and the braking capacity --- and on and on... it's not always just about the power of the engine.

For instance --- my brother in law has a F350 single rear wheel diesel -- I had an F350 dually. Mine out cornered his by a mile.... because it cornered flat and the trailer didn't push the rear end around... therefore if you drove both with the same trailer - mine would have been a clear winner. It just drove nicer under towing conditions.

[DRJDVM's '69]

A Toyota can pull the space shuttle....so get one of those :)

[EBMC]

I used to tow a 24' with an 06 f150. It did alright,it didn't push the truck around. The drawback was the lack of power. As long as the trailer brakes are working properly you should be fine for limited use.
I do have to admit though, my new Duramax was one of the best purchases I ever made!:)

[Vegas69]

Don't forget cooling systems and gearing. I agree with these guys, you are biting off more than you can chew with an Avalanche and a 24' enclosed going any real distance. Appears your truck is rated at 7200-8000 lbs. You will likely exceed it with the car and gear.

I've really liked our Tundra. For a real farmer or puller, it's not the right truck. I really think their target market was a city slicker like myself with some toys and a Wife that needs to drive it. It fits right in between a half ton and 3/4 for pulling. Drives more car like than any other truck I've driven and has a back up camera for tight parking lots along with nav and bluetooth. Interior is nice quality and it's been reliable. I wanted to buy a Chevy but they just don't have many 1500's capable of pulling a 24" enclosed so it was impossible to find one used. I just don't need a 2500.

[James OLC]

I agree with Todd. My 1500 is the limiting factor for a trailer and i have the heavy duty trailer towing package - brakes, coolers, controller, etc. - with ethe "big" gas engine. It's my daily driver and I just could not justify going to the 2500. Maybe one day but not now.

Found this on Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/THE-MOST-EQUIPPED-FEATHERLITE-24-FT-ENCLOSED-RACE-KART-CAR-TRAILER-/300924723526?pt=Trailers&hash=item461082e146 - looks like a heck of a deal...

[Sparks67]

I agree with Todd. My 1500 is the limiting factor for a trailer and i have the heavy duty trailer towing package - brakes, coolers, controller, etc. - with ethe "big" gas engine. It's my daily driver and I just could not justify going to the 2500. Maybe one day but not now.

Found this on Ebay - http://www.ebay.com/itm/THE-MOST-EQUIPPED-FEATHERLITE-24-FT-ENCLOSED-RACE-KART-CAR-TRAILER-/300924723526?pt=Trailers&hash=item461082e146 - looks like a heck of a deal...

One of my friends has pulled a 24 foot enclosed trailer with his 1500, and he said that only problems was going up steep inclines. Another option is to put a supercharger or Turbo on the 1500, and increase the torque.

Another friend tows a 36 foot trailer with his 2500 6.2, and complains of the gas mileage. He plans to get a duramax next year.

Jeff

[Vince@Meanstreets]

My normal tow vehicle is my 2500 8.1L suburban but I pulled my trailer with my wifes 2010 Avalanche 4x4 back and forth from Pamona no problem. Did great over the Grapevine with no over heating. Keep the tow switch on and your good at 55 mph. Throw a brake controller on it too.

I agree, if you are going to do alot of miles then get yourself a 2500. If your gonna do local stuff you should be fine with the Avalanche. Its gonna beat it up after time.

[JMitch19]

I've towed a 24' enclosed with my 2012 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton a good amount. My truck has the factory trailer package which has a rated capacity of 9500 lbs. My 2012 tows noticeably better that my 2003 1/2 ton which was rated at 7800 lbs.

On a recent trip from west Michigan to Boston I had My truck towing a 24' steel framed enclosed trailer with a 69 Camaro in it. My buddy had a 2011/12 Sierra 2500hd with the 6.0 gas engine towing a 24' all aluminum enclosed trailer with a 72 Nova in it. We had three guys on this trip and traded driving duties between the two trucks. All three of us were surprised how well the 1/2 ton compared to the 3/4 ton. On the trip home we were driving through some pretty hilly areas in the middle of a bad storm. My 1/2 ton averaged 8.1 mpg.(it normally gets 10-10.5 towing this combo) The 3/4 ton averaged 6.7mpg.

My .02 is if your only towing a handful times per year the 1/2 ton will be fine. If you are going to be towing a lot skip the gas 3/4 ton and go with a diesel.

[GregWeld]

I'm sorry. I had to laugh at the MPG figures.

My "truck" is running 53,000 POUNDS hauls three cars plus a house and I get
6.6 MPG


And I don't have to "eat out" or get a motel room!!!




Hahahahahaha

[EBMC]

I've towed a 24' enclosed with my 2012 GMC Sierra 1/2 ton a good amount. My truck has the factory trailer package which has a rated capacity of 9500 lbs. My 2012 tows noticeably better that my 2003 1/2 ton which was rated at 7800 lbs.

On a recent trip from west Michigan to Boston I had My truck towing a 24' steel framed enclosed trailer with a 69 Camaro in it. My buddy had a 2011/12 Sierra 2500hd with the 6.0 gas engine towing a 24' all aluminum enclosed trailer with a 72 Nova in it. We had three guys on this trip and traded driving duties between the two trucks. All three of us were surprised how well the 1/2 ton compared to the 3/4 ton. On the trip home we were driving through some pretty hilly areas in the middle of a bad storm. My 1/2 ton averaged 8.1 mpg.(it normally gets 10-10.5 towing this combo) The 3/4 ton averaged 6.7mpg.

My .02 is if your only towing a handful times per year the 1/2 ton will be fine. If you are going to be towing a lot skip the gas 3/4 ton and go with a diesel.


Yeah there's really no point going with the gas engine if your already stepping up to 3/4 ton. He would have doubled his mileage. Not to mention the night and day difference in power.

[Vegas69]

Isn't it true that modern diesels suffer from short trips due to new emissions standards?

[GregWeld]

Isn't it true that modern diesels suffer from short trips due to new emissions standards?



Diesels are NOT good choices for driving to the grocery store and back.... They like to WORK....so if you're not putting the boots to 'em once in awhile -- towing etc -- then why would anyone have one?

Even towing a 24' trailer and a stinky little Camaro isn't really making 'em work hard. I agree with the others when they say -- if you're not putting very many miles on a tow rig... then it's kind of a waste. The motor option alone is like 5 grand.... a guy can burn a lot of 6 MPG fuel for 5 grand... for the two or three times a year he hauls a 2,000 mile round trip. And if you're just going 500 miles round trip.... the whole conversation just doesn't pan out.


My personal hauling is Seattle - to LA - or to No Cal - or to AriDzona - or even back and forth to Sun Valley.... those are FREQUENT trips with lots of mountain climbing (almost monthly - so figure 9 trips like that per year) so a diesel is a must...

Do the math -- a gas truck gets 6 mpg -- a diesel will get 10 or 12.... Diesel costs more than regular and the difference will take forever to use up the cost of the diesel motor. Not to mention the resale value you'll get back for the diesel.... but a guy really has to think about the true costs for the amount of time spent using it correctly.

[ironworks]

Don't forget cooling systems and gearing. I agree with these guys, you are biting off more than you can chew with an Avalanche and a 24' enclosed going any real distance. Appears your truck is rated at 7200-8000 lbs. You will likely exceed it with the car and gear.

I've really liked our Tundra. For a real farmer or puller, it's not the right truck. I really think their target market was a city slicker like myself with some toys and a Wife that needs to drive it. It fits right in between a half ton and 3/4 for pulling. Drives more car like than any other truck I've driven and has a back up camera for tight parking lots along with nav and bluetooth. Interior is nice quality and it's been reliable. I wanted to buy a Chevy but they just don't have many 1500's capable of pulling a 24" enclosed so it was impossible to find one used. I just don't need a 2500.

They do make a better 1500 and its called the mighty max package. It has the 6.2l engine with the 6 speed and the bigger rear axle. My 1500 would pull my Camaro up the Grapevine as fast as I want to go. I let off at 85mph the max my old f450 would go one time. It really no difference with an enclosed. The problem with the 2500 with the gas engine is that is the same engine in the 1500. So it gets worse mileage then a 1500. To me it's either a 1500 or the Duramax 2500. The gas powered 2500 is a waste of time. My old dually would be more stable then my 1500 in crosswinds or passing traffic. But my 1500 gets 11mpg towing and my f450 got 8mpg empty or loaded. My Freightliner gets 7mpg.

[GregWeld]

So ---- remember the old horse power wars??? The ratings were always "fudged" by the OEMS picking the RPM's they used to show HP.... we know now that those numbers were mostly marketing BS or a way to trip up the insurance companies....


Now here's the latest OEM fudge factor.... "the tow ratings"



The 5.3-liter V8 Crew Cab 4x4 we're sitting in can tow 9,600 pounds thanks to optional zero-cost 3.42 axles. An optional Max Trailering package with 3.73 axles and stiffer leaf springs will boost that to 11,200 pounds: The 11,500-pound advertised maximum tow rating requires the 4x2 Double Cab configuration. Add the mighty 6.2-liter V8 and it nudges to 12,000 pounds.

Of course GMC, like Chevrolet, has decided to ignore the new SAE tow rating procedure that would make these numbers relevant to the competition. As it stands, the ratings are only useful for comparison within the GM family.

[Ketzer]

I bought a used Yukon XL 2500 to use for towing and sold my newish Duramax dually. We might tow to a show 2-3 times a year. Never more than 6-8 hours one way, usually less. The dually was very nice and would tow like a dream but we never used it for anything. Too big and too much coin tied up just sitting. The Yukon is a lot more useful for everyday stuff and even though as Rodger pointed out it only has the 6.0l gas burner, I've programmed and exhausted it up to respectable performance. Plus it has 3/4 ton chassis and brakes and the 4l80E with all the extra coolers and cooling. I can load all the gear (chairs, coolers, canopy) inside and not have to worry about that stuff being exposed in the open bed.

It also has the Quadrasteer. If you've never driven one, they are a hoot! It makes a lousy trailer backer like me look talented!:excited:



Jeff-

[Vegas69]

They do make a better 1500 and its called the mighty max package. It has the 6.2l engine with the 6 speed and the bigger rear axle. My 1500 would pull my Camaro up the Grapevine as fast as I want to go. I let off at 85mph the max my old f450 would go one time. It really no difference with an enclosed. The problem with the 2500 with the gas engine is that is the same engine in the 1500. So it gets worse mileage then a 1500. To me it's either a 1500 or the Duramax 2500. The gas powered 2500 is a waste of time. My old dually would be more stable then my 1500 in crosswinds or passing traffic. But my 1500 gets 11mpg towing and my f450 got 8mpg empty or loaded. My Freightliner gets 7mpg.

I hear you but try to find one in the used market. Three years ago, I couldn't find one.

[DRJDVM's '69]

My Ram 2500 diesel gets an avg 22-24 mpg.... When I tow my trailer with a car in it.... Around 14-16....

[onebad68]

If you are towing hard/heavy every day, a diesel is for you, if not, a gas will do. I choose a gas engine when I was looking for a new truck. It will tow anything I want. It is not my daily driver so gas is not a big issue. And believe me, the maintenance on a gas truck is much cheaper. And the cost of a diesel will buy a lot of gas! I am sure this will start a war, just putting out there that gas engines will tow big items with ease as well.

[John510]

Thanks for the replies. I will be looking for an open trailer since I dont have a giant truck.

[B Schein]

My Ram 2500 diesel gets an avg 22-24 mpg.... When I tow my trailer with a car in it.... Around 14-16....

Are you hand calculating that or is that off the overhead console. I have an 06 2500 with exhaust tunner and intake work and only get 15-16 around town and 9-10 towing on flat ground with a 24 ft enclosed. The overhead say the numbers you are a talking about but that computer is way off.

[Lenie]

I bought a used trailer today after looking for about 6 months. Has some things on it i didn't want and things I wanted and didn't get but when your buying used and you don't live on the east coast sometimes you've got to settle. Perfect timing as my buddy in San Diego had to drive to Stockton for work so he picked it up for me near LA and I'm going to meet him there and get it. Saves me a few road hours, just in time for me to take my car to the upholstery shop next week. Gettin' it done just in time for winter:whistling:

Here's the link
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/rvs/4084956941.html

[GregWeld]

I bought a used trailer today after looking for about 6 months. Has some things on it i didn't want and things I wanted and didn't get but when your buying used and you don't live on the east coast sometimes you've got to settle. Perfect timing as my buddy in San Diego had to drive to Stockton for work so he picked it up for me near LA and I'm going to meet him there and get it. Saves me a few road hours, just in time for me to take my car to the upholstery shop next week. Gettin' it done just in time for winter:whistling:

Here's the link
http://orangecounty.craigslist.org/rvs/4084956941.html




Nice Lenie!!


One "hint" --- don't put the spare in the floor box..... trust me on this one! Get a wall mount and put it near the rear door - up high out of the way... when you need it it's right there. Use the floor box for spare chains and stuff like that. If you need the spare and it's in the floor UNDER THE CAR - guess what you get to do first? That's right -- move the car... wrestle the tire out -- and then put the car back... and re-strap it. F that! I've been there and done that!

[Lenie]

Nice Lenie!!


One "hint" --- don't put the spare in the floor box..... trust me on this one! Get a wall mount and put it near the rear door - up high out of the way... when you need it it's right there. Use the floor box for spare chains and stuff like that. If you need the spare and it's in the floor UNDER THE CAR - guess what you get to do first? That's right -- move the car... wrestle the tire out -- and then put the car back... and re-strap it. F that! I've been there and done that!

Greg, you also mentioned something about changing flat tires by backing/pulling the trailer up on a wedge block, easier than a jack, do you still have that link where I can go buy one? Thanks

[GregWeld]

Greg, you also mentioned something about changing flat tires by backing/pulling the trailer up on a wedge block, easier than a jack, do you still have that link where I can go buy one? Thanks



Here it is on Amazon --- but of course Poulsbo RV would have them or other similar trailer dealer.


http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Tandem-Tire-Changing-Ramp/dp/B000I4JPZE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1379990837&sr=1-1&keywords=trailer+ramp

[Ricochet]

Here it is on Amazon --- but of course Poulsbo RV would have them or other similar trailer dealer.


http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Tandem-Tire-Changing-Ramp/dp/B000I4JPZE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1379990837&sr=1-1&keywords=trailer+ramp

This ramp is pretty slick. I was going to buy one but I opted made my own using a 6X6 I had lying around. Just did an angle cut and works like a champ.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

This ramp is pretty slick. I was going to buy one but I opted made my own using a 6X6 I had lying around. Just did an angle cut and works like a champ.

I just use two parking chocks. Pull up on them.
I still laugh when I see guys taking the time to pull out their bottle jacks.

[71RS/SS396]

Nice Lenie!!


One "hint" --- don't put the spare in the floor box..... trust me on this one! Get a wall mount and put it near the rear door - up high out of the way... when you need it it's right there. Use the floor box for spare chains and stuff like that. If you need the spare and it's in the floor UNDER THE CAR - guess what you get to do first? That's right -- move the car... wrestle the tire out -- and then put the car back... and re-strap it. F that! I've been there and done that!

It really depends on where the belly door is, mine is in the left front corner of the floor and no where near being under the car.

[mdprovee]

Nice find Lenie.

[Lenie]

Here it is on Amazon --- but of course Poulsbo RV would have them or other similar trailer dealer.


http://www.amazon.com/Trailer-Tandem-Tire-Changing-Ramp/dp/B000I4JPZE/ref=sr_1_1?s=automotive&ie=UTF8&qid=1379990837&sr=1-1&keywords=trailer+ramp

Thanks

[waynieZ]

Nice trailer Lenie Good luck with it.

[Ketzer]

Anybody use or have thoughts about the "anti-sway" or "load stabilizer" bars that I've seen used? Some are pretty simple, some very complex. There's even a single sided attachment targeted specifically at anti sway (I've never had much of a sway problem as long as the tongue is weighted properly).

One of the simple designs....
http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267/1824562/21668057/407702296.jpg


Jeff-

[GregWeld]

I wouldn't spend the money on these until you've actually hauled with a loaded trailer... because it all depends on the trailer and the truck combo whether or not you need it.

My short bed crew cab Dodge 2500 (single wheel rear) needed it --- my Dually F-350 did not -- same trailer same load.

Brother in laws Ford F-250 needed it towing his old trailer -- but hasn't used it since he got my old trailer...

[GregWeld]

BTW --- The SWAY CONTROL DEVICE is a total PITA.... it's just a bar that slides between an adjustable "brake/friction" surface. You have to stop and remove it before backing etc.

If I had a trailer that needed that (which is separate from the load leveling hitch) I'd sell it before I'd add that. No good trailer should have to have that.

[Ketzer]

This is kinda apples to oranges because this isn't what I would call a serious load, but is what prompted the question...

I towed last weekend with an open trailer down to a casino show. I set up the load so it just barely set the rear of my Yukon down. It towed perfect! No sway or bob, no "light" feeling front end, I thought it was ideal. One of my friends commented that I had sure "loaded that poor truck down".... WTF...

http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267/1824562/21668057/407702975.jpg


Jeff-

[GregWeld]

Loading the rear of the tow vehicle down one inch is almost PERFECT.... the "tongue" should have 10% of the load on it. So 6,000 pound load should have 600 pounds of weight on the tongue of the trailer.


If the trailer doesn't sway --- and some do! --- and the front of the tow vehicle isn't getting "light" and becoming a "too much steering input" issue.... Then I'd say you've got no problems.


NOTE: Too LITTLE air pressure is the biggest cause of tire failure -- so when towing ALWAYS fill your tires with the proper air for TOWING..... A stiffer sidewall (more air pressure) will also help with trailer handling. I actually adjust my tire pressures depending on the season -- I use more pressure in the winter than in the summer... because the HEAT of the roads etc changes the "running" pressures. I run 105 pounds in the front in the summer and 110 in the winter on "the rig".

[youthpastor]

This is kinda apples to oranges because this isn't what I would call a serious load, but is what prompted the question...

I towed last weekend with an open trailer down to a casino show. I set up the load so it just barely set the rear of my Yukon down. It towed perfect! No sway or bob, no "light" feeling front end, I thought it was ideal. One of my friends commented that I had sure "loaded that poor truck down".... WTF...

http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267/1824562/21668057/407702975.jpg


Jeff-

Jeff- I use my 2500 Suburban for towing an enclosed 24' Wells Cargo and it does awesome for a gas motor. Great tow rig- Mine's white too

[Ketzer]

Jeff- I use my 2500 Suburban for towing an enclosed 24' Wells Cargo and it does awesome for a gas motor. Great tow rig- Mine's white too

This was my first tow since I bought the truck, I had been warned that the 6.0 was gonna drink gas and have no real power... it did absolutely fine. I didn't put pen to paper but a 3 hour round trip on a 1/4 tank of gas is not "drinking". I really don't think the Dmax dually I had would have done much better. Plus, this Quadrasteer ruins you.


Jeff-

[GregWeld]

I think the TOW RIG is all about where a guy lives and how many times he's actually going to use it.... In the Northwest -- we have MAJOR grades 5/6/7% -- and one after the other if you're going south on I-5 thru the Siskiyou's and then over Mt Shasta... and further south over "the grapevine" to LA area

If I go East -- I immediately have to pull a grade -- and if I go North - I am winding thru the mountains.... So basically I can't go anywhere FLAT or thru ROLLING hills.... People here need real pulling power and even more important the brakes that come along with that power.

I once -- and only once -- used my Denali 6.0 to pull an open flatbed trailer with a '69 Camaro (big block) over the Grapevine to LA --- I was WOT doing 35 mph and if I lifted I was sure I was going to go backwards....