WSSix
07-21-2013, 10:23 AM
I'm nowhere near starting to build a new engine for the car but I figure I better start looking into it and gathering parts when I can. Obviously, I want to have a goal in mind that I work towards. I'm also cheap so that has to be factored in as well.
Basically, I'd like to build a budget LT1 and utilize inexpensive yet quality parts to build the motor. I would like to maximize the build. I believe that comes from taking a correct approach, maximizing efficiency, and not just throwing high dollar parts at the motor. I really don't have a power goal in mind except to say hopefully around 400rwhp. I do want lots of torque though and good revs. By that, I mean an engine that accelerates quickly through the RPMs and not just one that makes power like a diesel. I also believe you can overbuild and that most people often do. The reality is that the car will be a street car the majority of the time and won't be beat on all that often. I'd rather it survive, perform well, and sound good than to make the most power at the car show. Besides, when you hear a car running, it's not spitting its power number out the exhaust and I could care less to go swinging my normal, albeit impressive, penis around. Red lining anywhere between 6k and 6.5k is fine.
With that said, I'm looking for suggestions and ideas for building the bottom end. It's nothing but an SBC down there. I figure I'm going to have to dig a little deeper and go more specialized than your typical SBC build to get a proper LT1 top end. Feel free to chime in if you really know your LT1 specific parts though.
Right now, I'm thinking 383 with six inch rods. I figure the added torque from the stroker will be worth it. Cast crank unless I can find a inexpensive but good forged crank. Knife edging the crank throws and using a crank scraper. I believe the factory windage tray can be modified to work with the stroker crank. I'd like to keep one regardless of how I have to do it.
Rods and pistons I'm not sure about but I want light weight without going broke. If hyper-eutectic is lighter than forged I'm sure those will work. Used but in good condition is ok and I'm thinking that's what I'll end up with. I certainly don't need I-beam rods but won't turn down used ones if they are worth the added cost. If there's any added costs. I don't know. If I'm not going to see any advantage over stock cast rods, then I'll avoid the 6inch rods. Compression will be in the 11:1 range and for now, it's an NA motor.
Everything will be balanced. I'm curious about these supposedly better main and rod bearings that have a coating on them that makes them lower friction. I can't remember the brand or coating. If you're familiar with this, are they worth the costs? What about coated piston skirts or having the pistons coated. Again worth the cost for a street motor?
I intend to paint the inside of the block with the oil repellent paint and do some grinding to remove casting flash etc. Can you paint the throws on the crank with this stuff or is that a no no?
I'm unsure of going splayed four bolts or simply going with 2 bolt steel caps using studs. If I can get my hands on an LT4, I'll simply keep it with factory caps since they are 4 bolt motors. However, all LT1s only have 2 bolt mains regardless of platform. That's what I have now so I'm working from that point.
That's all I can think of for now. Like I said, I've got plenty of time to look into all this and to plan. I'd really appreciate any insight, experience, or even opinions on the direction I should go. Maximizing a budget build is the goal.
Thanks
Basically, I'd like to build a budget LT1 and utilize inexpensive yet quality parts to build the motor. I would like to maximize the build. I believe that comes from taking a correct approach, maximizing efficiency, and not just throwing high dollar parts at the motor. I really don't have a power goal in mind except to say hopefully around 400rwhp. I do want lots of torque though and good revs. By that, I mean an engine that accelerates quickly through the RPMs and not just one that makes power like a diesel. I also believe you can overbuild and that most people often do. The reality is that the car will be a street car the majority of the time and won't be beat on all that often. I'd rather it survive, perform well, and sound good than to make the most power at the car show. Besides, when you hear a car running, it's not spitting its power number out the exhaust and I could care less to go swinging my normal, albeit impressive, penis around. Red lining anywhere between 6k and 6.5k is fine.
With that said, I'm looking for suggestions and ideas for building the bottom end. It's nothing but an SBC down there. I figure I'm going to have to dig a little deeper and go more specialized than your typical SBC build to get a proper LT1 top end. Feel free to chime in if you really know your LT1 specific parts though.
Right now, I'm thinking 383 with six inch rods. I figure the added torque from the stroker will be worth it. Cast crank unless I can find a inexpensive but good forged crank. Knife edging the crank throws and using a crank scraper. I believe the factory windage tray can be modified to work with the stroker crank. I'd like to keep one regardless of how I have to do it.
Rods and pistons I'm not sure about but I want light weight without going broke. If hyper-eutectic is lighter than forged I'm sure those will work. Used but in good condition is ok and I'm thinking that's what I'll end up with. I certainly don't need I-beam rods but won't turn down used ones if they are worth the added cost. If there's any added costs. I don't know. If I'm not going to see any advantage over stock cast rods, then I'll avoid the 6inch rods. Compression will be in the 11:1 range and for now, it's an NA motor.
Everything will be balanced. I'm curious about these supposedly better main and rod bearings that have a coating on them that makes them lower friction. I can't remember the brand or coating. If you're familiar with this, are they worth the costs? What about coated piston skirts or having the pistons coated. Again worth the cost for a street motor?
I intend to paint the inside of the block with the oil repellent paint and do some grinding to remove casting flash etc. Can you paint the throws on the crank with this stuff or is that a no no?
I'm unsure of going splayed four bolts or simply going with 2 bolt steel caps using studs. If I can get my hands on an LT4, I'll simply keep it with factory caps since they are 4 bolt motors. However, all LT1s only have 2 bolt mains regardless of platform. That's what I have now so I'm working from that point.
That's all I can think of for now. Like I said, I've got plenty of time to look into all this and to plan. I'd really appreciate any insight, experience, or even opinions on the direction I should go. Maximizing a budget build is the goal.
Thanks