For the guys that have already done the DSE Mini Tub install....

[Stovebolter]

I am slowly getting started on my 69 Camaro. It is more or less in stock form as far as suspension goes. I started the DSE mini tub install and have completed the install on one side. I have every intention to drive it home as I add components, with the exception of the LS. I know it will be sitting a few days for that. LOLs. Well I drove it home and all was fine. Today I started to work on the other side and got a funny feeling. As thin as the frame is where you notch it, is it safe to still run the leaf spring suspension? Or is the minitub solution specific only to those going the coil over route? It seems like a lot of stress on the rear portion of the frame after the mod Ive just completed. My frame is barely a 1/2" in width at the narrowest point in the notch. I have the full suspension system from Ride Tech including the TQ Air Coil Overs. I was hoping to do everything in phases. First get minitubs installed. Drive it until I get my wheels from True Forged, then pull rearend, place rear tires so i can get a good measurement for the Moser rearend. Im making my own lower links via parts from Ballistic Fabrication....Johnny joints,tube adapters,etc. Probably make the watts link and Torque Arm as well. The notched area just worrys me a bit.

Thanks,
David

[Rick D]

Dave has far as the rails go you will be fine. I have friends that run 10" tires cars with the rails notched the same way.

As for the leafs lots and lots of guys run leafs with mini tubs and notch rails.

[Stovebolter]

Thanks Rick. Was just wondered it being a unibody car. I was worried about getting a wrinkle in my quarters.

Thanks,
David

[Vince@Meanstreets]

yeah, you should be fine as long as you added the 1/8" plates where they need to go.

[Ketzer]

I'm doing it this fall to my Nova, so I peek in on every mini-tub thread hoping to learn all the tricks first. Your concern has come up several times and the pro guys all say the same, as long as you are putting in the plates where DSE says to, it is stronger than stock. The obvious stuff applies, solid car to start with, good welds, no shortcuts.
Post pics if you can, along with any hints you learned. It helps us all.



Jeff-

[tubbed69]

yeah, you should be fine as long as you added the 1/8" plates where they need to go.

I did the DSE leaf spring minitub kit on my last car and it was a real nice kit,just like these other guys said weld the correct size plates in and you will be fine.:gitrdun:

[Stovebolter]

Vince and Jeff's,

I used 3/16 plate wrapped to match the contour of the notch. I feel very comfortable with my welding abilities. I was just a little nervous about modifying these factory stamped frame rails. LOLs. I cannot believe how thin the frame rails are. Im use to working on full frame cars. LOLs.

I will try to get some pictures up. Im doing all of this with an Ipad now so my pictures may be upside down. LOLs. Even when I flip the photo and reload....it will still be upside down.

As far as the install itself. It couldn't be easier in my opinion. Straight forward install. A plasma cutter would probably speed things up considerably, but I moved away from my air cutoffwheel in favor of my Makita 4" electric grinder with a 1/32"x4" cutoff wheel. Oh...and if you wear older jeans be weary of the frays at the bottom of pant legs....Im welding away and noticed my leg was getting a little warm. Fire!!!! LOL's.

David

[Rick D]

Vince and Jeff's,

I used 3/16 plate wrapped to match the contour of the notch. I feel very comfortable with my welding abilities. I was just a little nervous about modifying these factory stamped frame rails. LOLs. I cannot believe how thin the frame rails are. Im use to working on full frame cars. LOLs.

I will try to get some pictures up. Im doing all of this with an Ipad now so my pictures may be upside down. LOLs. Even when I flip the photo and reload....it will still be upside down.

As far as the install itself. It couldn't be easier in my opinion. Straight forward install. A plasma cutter would probably speed things up considerably, but I moved away from my air cutoffwheel in favor of my Makita 4" electric grinder with a 1/32"x4" cutoff wheel. Oh...and if you wear older jeans be weary of the frays at the bottom of pant legs....Im welding away and noticed my leg was getting a little warm. Fire!!!! LOL's.

David

Dave, I only use my iPad to come on here and post pictures. Just make sure that the button is in your right hand and the camera is in the upper left when you take the pictures. :idea: it took me a while to get it correct when taking pictures with the it. Now I use my iPhone and cloud the pictures to my iPad to post them. And yes now we need a build thread???:warning:

[Ketzer]

Oh...and if you wear older jeans be weary of the frays at the bottom of pant legs....Im welding away and noticed my leg was getting a little warm. Fire!!!! LOL's.

David

I was a teenager in the early 80s and frayed rocker jeans were the rage. This was also the same time I was taking welding at the local vo-tech. We spent more time setting each other on fire than trying to learn to weld... probably why I suck at it now.


Jeff-

[Stovebolter]

Ok. Let give it a whirl and see if the pictures are right side up. Lol.

As I mentioned earlier, the other side is already completed so the only pictures I have are of the side I did today.

Not to bad. I'd do it again no problem. But I already had some experience with my sons 65 El Camino mini-tub, so I'm sure it's gets easier each time.

David

[Stovebolter]

How do you post multiple pictures in one post from an ipad?

[Stovebolter]

I tried and it only lets me post one at a time.

[Stovebolter]

I'll get some better pictures with a real camera. Lol.

[Rick D]

How do you post multiple pictures in one post from an ipad?

You can't from an iPad. You have to post them one at a time or get an online photo account (phototbucket or??) then you just up load them and then link them to the body of the post and bingo you have multiple pictures in one post. :headspin:

[Rick D]

Oh and nice job on the mini tubs! :thumbsup: Did you just move the shock inboard? I see one coming through the floor?

[Stovebolter]

Yes Rick. I just moved them both inboard of the frame. It was rather easy. My car had traction bars when I brought it home. I just swapped sides and moved the shock mount tab from the front position on one to the rear. That way both are mounted from the rear. Also, the thick top factory flanges are only held on with two spot welds and an inner flange bolt the two halves togther. Just drill the spot welds out, pop the upper flange off, move to inboard location. Drill out the hole so that the bottom flange will mate to the upper....think it was like 1 1/8". I just located my center with a 1/4" bit and used a rotary file for a perfect fit.

This is all temporary so that I can continue to enjoy my car whilst doing upgrades. So far its made the 15 mile trip home each night.

David

[Stovebolter]

Ultimately my goal is to drive the car while doing upgrades. Brakes, True Turn air ride suspension, torque arm rear with Watts link, full float rear, LS swap, 6 speed ZR1 close ratio, 10's and 12's. May install a full cage (but keep back seat....removable side and center bars) to stiffen up the suspension. After Ive driven long enough to feel comfortable most of the bugs are worked out, then I'll strip it down and do a rotisserie frame up. New interior and glass etc etc. I love the stock look of these cars. I personally wouldn't change much but the seats will get side bolstering. I'd go with the TMI line except i want the rear to look similar.

David

[Ron in SoCal]

Ultimately my goal is to drive the car while doing upgrades. Brakes, True Turn air ride suspension, torque arm rear with Watts link, full float rear, LS swap, 6 speed ZR1 close ratio, 10's and 12's. May install a full cage (but keep back seat....removable side and center bars) to stiffen up the suspension. After Ive driven long enough to feel comfortable most of the bugs are worked out, then I'll strip it down and do a rotisserie frame up. New interior and glass etc etc. I love the stock look of these cars. I personally wouldn't change much but the seats will get side bolstering. I'd go with the TMI line except i want the rear to look similar.

David

Sounds great Steve, and the cool part is you're keeping it on the road! Can't wait to see this car come together :cheers:

[Vince@Meanstreets]

great work