Trans tunnel mod??

[Rick D]

Anyone know on a 2nd gen if I need to raise the trans tunnel for a T56 to fit? :superhack: I've got a little work to do in there so if I need to raise it now would be the time.

[Sieg]

Looking at your pics your tunnel looks like in may have more taper than the Gen 1's. I'd guess it will need some clearance. Not necessarily a bad thing as you can design a removable top plate for access to the shifter.....which was very handy in my situation when I "upgraded" to leaking shifters. Without my cover plate I would have been forced to remove the tranny. It was a LOT easier to remove the console. :)

I stretched the tunnel as much as I could with jacks and blocks but still could get enough vertical clearance. So I "custom" hammered a plate from a piece of 16 ga.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-srM2zX9/0/XL/i-srM2zX9-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-wPgX2h5/0/XL/i-wPgX2h5-XL.jpg

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-tMcMfv3/0/XL/i-tMcMfv3-XL.jpg

Not perfect by any means but it blends nicely with the factory stamped floor. :lol:

[ccracin]

http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-tMcMfv3/0/XL/i-tMcMfv3-XL.jpg

Not perfect by any means but it blends nicely with the factory stamped floor. :lol:

Your tunnel plate has a six pack! :headspin: Nice!

[carbuff]

I think the answer is that it really depends... There are too many variables to know for certain. On my first second gen with a T56, behind an SBC, I didn't cut/raise the tunnel. I did pound on a few areas, but was able to make it fit. But that was also with an aftermarket subframe, so there's no combination which I can tell you for sure worked.

On this car, we cut and raised almost 2 inches.

With a different set of motor mounts, positioning the engine higher/lower and further forward or back, it could all change.

Sorry to be so non-committal, but it's just a tough question to answer unfortunately, and very combination specific.

[Sieg]

Sorry to be so non-committal, but it's just a tough question to answer unfortunately, and very combination specific.
You can't commit from what I've observed, these cars floor pan dimensions vary quite a bit. Motor mounts, subframes, crossmembers, body mounts, factory stamping variables, accidents, off-road excursions or jumping, 400 lb. drivers, etc.

My drivetrain angle is at 2.5* and when researching my install I found numerous "similar" cars that didn't any tunnel mods and numerous that need more than mine. I'm guessing there was a pretty generous tolerance when stamping the factory floor pan.

If I had planned on not using a console I would have cut the top off the tunnel and installed a section that was wider and flatter and incorporated an e-brake (Bat-turn) handle.

[Rick D]

Looking at your pics your tunnel looks like in may have more taper than the Gen 1's. I'd guess it will need some clearance. Not necessarily a bad thing as you can design a removable top plate for access to the shifter.....which was very handy in my situation when I "upgraded" to leaking shifters. Without my cover plate I would have been forced to remove the tranny. It was a LOT easier to remove the console. :)

I stretched the tunnel as much as I could with jacks and blocks but still could get enough vertical clearance. So I "custom" hammered a plate from a piece of 16 ga.
http://photos.smugmug.com/photos/i-srM2zX9/0/XL/i-srM2zX9-XL.jpg

Not perfect by any means but it blends nicely with the factory stamped floor. :lol:

Nice job there Seig. I like the removable plate idea, I may use that?

[Rick D]

I think the answer is that it really depends... There are too many variables to know for certain. On my first second gen with a T56, behind an SBC, I didn't cut/raise the tunnel. I did pound on a few areas, but was able to make it fit. But that was also with an aftermarket subframe, so there's no combination which I can tell you for sure worked.

On this car, we cut and raised almost 2 inches.

With a different set of motor mounts, positioning the engine higher/lower and further forward or back, it could all change.

Sorry to be so non-committal, but it's just a tough question to answer unfortunately, and very combination specific.

Bryan, I get what you are saying and I know lots of different variables go into each car, I was just thinking like with A-body's you have to mod the floor. So I thought I would ask to see if I would get the no matter what you are using you have to answer!
You can't commit from what I've observed, these cars floor pan dimensions vary quite a bit. Motor mounts, subframes, crossmembers, body mounts, factory stamping variables, accidents, off-road excursions or jumping, 400 lb. drivers, etc.

My drivetrain angle is at 2.5* and when researching my install I found numerous "similar" cars that didn't any tunnel mods and numerous that need more than mine. I'm guessing there was a pretty generous tolerance when stamping the factory floor pan.

If I had planned on not using a console I would have cut the top off the tunnel and installed a section that was wider and flatter and incorporated an e-brake (Bat-turn) handle.

So what are you telling me now you can't commit :rolleyes: :confused59:

[Sieg]

Nice job there Seig. I like the removable plate idea, I may use that?

If you can commit. :action-smiley-027:

If you have any questions don't hesitate to ask. :thumbsup: