ls3 install info needed for a 65 chevelle

[ls69bird]

I just bought 65 chevelle & I'm putting in an ls3 with a 4l65e transmission in it. I'm trying to find out what works best for this install? Headers, engine & trans mounts, engine harness & fuel tank setup?*

[65_LS1_T56]

65 here w/ LS1 and T56...where you at in MI?
Don't think my method was the "best" but it's coming together. Glad to share info.

Link in signature.

[ls69bird]

I live in Macomb twp. What engine mounts & headers did you use?

[CFster]

67 here. Wouldn't change a thing. Link is in my sig.

[65_LS1_T56]

I live in Macomb twp. What engine mounts & headers did you use?

Lapeer here...
I built my own mounts and used Hedman Muscle Rod mid-length headers. I also used a f-body pan but notched my crossmember for clearance.

[JB64CHEVELLE]

I have a 64 Chevelle and used street and performance mounts, Mast motorsports pan and notched the front crossmember. For a harness I went with Speartech and then used a Ricks tank. Good to see some more early Chevelles here.:thumbsup:

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Hi JB,

Do you have any pictures on the notch and reasoning behind it? Im going to be assisting a member with a swap and want to get more info on different set ups.

[65_LS1_T56]

I'd be interested in how JB did his too. I can say that the earlier A-bodies (64-67) are a bit tighter around the front crossmember. The later frames had more of a flat area on the back and top side for pan clearance, the early ones are more of a "v" if that makes sense. I went with the F car pan, well for one I had one, and second it's shallow on the pickup side for ground clearance, and has pretty decent inner tie rod clearance. The biggest reason I notched mine was to get some clearance between the back of the passenger side cylinder head and the firewall. Some guys notch the oil pan instead for the same result.
Here's a couple pics of my notch:
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/65_LS1_T56/65%20Frame%20Notching/IMG_1418.jpg
http://i1207.photobucket.com/albums/bb476/65_LS1_T56/65%20Frame%20Notching/IMG_1421.jpg

[ls69bird]

Nice job on notching that frame.

[JB64CHEVELLE]

Hi Vince and Aaron, I will post up some pics for you on this. I had to notch the frame for oil pan clearance with the Mast pan. You will also need to check tie rod to oil pan clearance. I Left just enough room from cylinder to firewall for my coil packs. If your not putting the coil packs on the back of the head and making your own mounts you probably can move the motor back far enough to clear the crossmember. You will also need to modify the firewall to have access to the bellhousing bolts. I have a T56 and ended up cutting the complete trans tunnel out and made a raised one front to back . This was so I could have a low stance, driveshaft clearance with the T56. Hope this makes sense.

[JB64CHEVELLE]

Some pics of my hack job! LoL

[65_LS1_T56]

Hi Vince and Aaron, I will post up some pics for you on this. I had to notch the frame for oil pan clearance with the Mast pan. You will also need to check tie rod to oil pan clearance. I Left just enough room from cylinder to firewall for my coil packs. If your not putting the coil packs on the back of the head and making your own mounts you probably can move the motor back far enough to clear the crossmember. You will also need to modify the firewall to have access to the bellhousing bolts. I have a T56 and ended up cutting the complete trans tunnel out and made a raised one front to back . This was so I could have a low stance, driveshaft clearance with the T56. Hope this makes sense.

Sounds exactly like what I did. I'm running relocated coils as well. I also have a T56 and raised my tunnel and clearanced the first floor pan brace for yoke clearance. I am running a 4" aluminum drive shaft and a 9" ford. Low stance is a must :cheers:

[JB64CHEVELLE]

Aaron, I have to say your forgelines are BAD $SS. Do you think you can go wider than the 295 in the back? I got the ABC kit and was hoping to do at least a 315. I have 345s but I think thats going to require moving the lower trailing arm points.

[65_LS1_T56]

Aaron, I have to say your forgelines are BAD $SS. Do you think you can go wider than the 295 in the back? I got the ABC kit and was hoping to do at least a 315. I have 345s but I think thats going to require moving the lower trailing arm points.

Not to hi-jack, but maybe some useful info for the OP...
On my car, 295's, maybe 305s would fit if available in 18". I notched my frame before the ABC frame kits were available and when I did it, I only went 1.5" per side instead of 2". My frame is actually the limiting factor on the inboard side. With the tubs 2" wider and the frame, you should be able to get a 315 in there. 335/345's IMO would require moving the whole frame/trailing arms inboard on a 64-65 (or fenders out :unibrow: ie widebody). What alot of guys don't realize even thought the frames are interchangeable from 64-67, the 66-67 quarter lip-to-quarter lip is 2.5 - 3" wider (1.5"/side) than the early cars. Hence, 295's will fit in a non-tubbed 66-67.

And TY on the Forgelines, I'm very happy with them. PM me if you need any more info.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Aaron, I have to say your forgelines are BAD $SS. Do you think you can go wider than the 295 in the back? I got the ABC kit and was hoping to do at least a 315. I have 345s but I think thats going to require moving the lower trailing arm points.

Nice work, I don't think we will have to go that route. We are doing custom frame stands to move the engine back as far as we can go.


Say, do you have a build thread somewhere? love to see the progress.

[JB64CHEVELLE]

No build thread yet, I guess I should post one up.

[rogergrubb]

I'm watching both of your build threads as I'm researching this for my '65.

Keep up the good work ! :bump: