View Full Version : Dodge Charger 500 -70, 6.1 Hemi + manual, Pro-touring project
MikkoV
11-25-2012, 03:19 AM
Hi all, some may remember me from this -> http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=29907
Now iīm building Charger and mainly need bit help with engine conversion. Ive bought 6.1 engine from Cherokee SRT, iīll make it run with standalone ECU, shouldnīt be any problem in that area, but in few other...
Iīm from Finland, and speak Finnish, technical english isnīt that good and i have few issues in swap. Where to look info on this, many sites that iīve found are 2-3 years old and part suggestions may not be the wisest, so few questions.
-Oilpan, milodon pan & pick-up http://www.summitracing.com/parts/mil-31000
Seems best option, is it?
-Oil filter seems to hit k-frame, Dodge Durango adapter that mounts it different angle? Or oil filter block of plate/ relocation kit.
-Headers, originals seem to be real nice, any chance those fit to Charger engine bay without modification, body has allready been painted so no cutting to enginebay anymore.
-If not originals, what then. TTi, Hooker 5020-1
-Engine mounts, ??? Not too hard to make but if not costly, i prefer to buy those. TTi, any others?
-Radiator?
Iīll probably using BMW M5 Getrag 6-speed manual, since have one allready, it can be fitted, just little milling and aluminium welding.
- Flywheel and clutch? Not have any ideas yet. On option is to make custon billet flywheel and use M5 clutch, that way also can use M5 slave cylinder without modifications.
More stupid questions later:)
This is full restoration project, body was taken to bare metal, seam-welded, frame connectors added. Itīs painted all around, chassis parts are now pretty much painted and itīs now just time to start putting it back together.
rjsjea
11-25-2012, 09:28 AM
-For the Oil pan, in addition to the Milodon look at a Canton oil pan or Charlie's Oil pan. I think they are lower profile.
-Mopar makes a 45 degree oil filter adapter
-Since your engine is from a Jeep SRT8, those headers should work. If not Street and Performance makes a shorty style or the TTI's you mentioned.
-Motor mounts, Think TTI's were the first to come out. Ive seen a couple sets on Ebay from other sellers (think TinMan was the name)
-I ordered my radiator through Dave Weber, it's from Northern Radiators.
-Call Bouchillon performance or Dave Weber at Modern Muscle, they can get most or all of the parts you need in one package. Since you live a ways away it may help with shipping.
Grimmey71
11-25-2012, 09:08 PM
I am also doing the cherokee 6.1 into my Cuda, curious what stand alone system your using? Also I have started to track down a list of parts for my swap
Future parts:
Fram oil filter #ph3512(w/o relocation kit)
Rear heater hoses, pn68000978AA, PN68000979AA,
Upper radiator hose pn5290488AB
Milodon#31000,
Not sure where I got all the info from but I have been writing it down as I read through various builds.
MikkoV
11-25-2012, 09:52 PM
Thansk to Rjsjea for tips, what read yeasterday, i understood also that those headers fit, that saves quite a lot.
I am also doing the cherokee 6.1 into my Cuda, curious what stand alone system your using? Also I have started to track down a list of parts for my swap
Future parts:
Fram oil filter #ph3512(w/o relocation kit)
Rear heater hoses, pn68000978AA, PN68000979AA,
Upper radiator hose pn5290488AB
Milodon#31000,
Not sure where I got all the info from but I have been writing it down as I read through various builds.
Thanks
So does that filter fit with original adapter? Iīll need adapter anyway, my engine is from wrecked car and adapter is damaged. Think that iīll get this one.
http://www.moparsupercenter.com/gen-3-hemi-45-oil-filter-adapter-kit-pn-45fltrkit45fltrkit.html
I ordered Milodon pan and pick-up from Summit, my usual part suplier gets stuff from there couplse times a month
Iīll be using Finnish ecu called http://tatech.fi/index.php iīve put that earlier to two cars and are familiar with that, iīm also running LS3 in my Camaro with that.
MikkoV
12-02-2012, 10:15 PM
Brake issues. Can i get ready brackets for Willwood superlites to Charger somewhere? Just happen to have one Superlites lying around at home.
What about wheel hubs (or what those are called in US?) for discs, or just modify hubs from old brake drums...
Grimmey71
07-27-2013, 11:13 PM
Any updates?
MikkoV
07-28-2013, 12:22 AM
Updates on this, very few. All time has went to my Drifting Camaro rebuild, supercharging, E85 conversion (which btw gives pretty amazing results in S/C engine) and now racing.
Few pics about that.
http://jat.kuvat.fi/kuvat/FPDA%20Drifting%2C%20Kuopio%2C%2015.6.13/FPDA%20Drifting%2C%20Kuopio-20.jpg/_small.jpg
http://www.flickr.com/photos/cyklowni/9239389177/
http://jargon.kuvat.fi/kuvat/Moottoriurheilu/FPDA+Drifting+Kuopio+2013/IMG_1497.jpg/_smaller.jpg
http://farm6.staticflickr.com/5526/9075730378_3fd38cfe7a_z.jpg
http://farm8.staticflickr.com/7294/9073493235_11860bd105_z.jpg
About Charger, very little has been done.
-All chassis/suspension parts have been powdercoated (dark grey matallic) and i front-end has been re-assembled with all new joints and energy
bushings
I have got few new parts, 300C SRT8 Brembo front brake Calibers, big order on Danteīs includidng pretty much evething that still was missing. Interior parts, all gasgets and seal and lots of small stuff.
-I got 904 gearbox and cutted 2" inch slice from its bellhousing, and did same thing for that Getrag gearbox. Now should have proper flywheel made and those could be welded together.
Like this, quite similar setup.
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v211/Petehri/Sekalaista/M5%20Vaihteisto/P2030023.jpg
Grimmey71
07-28-2013, 04:21 AM
That is awesome, drive it like you stole it my man:king:
MikkoV
07-28-2013, 05:21 AM
That is awesome, drive it like you stole it my man:king:
Always :D
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=iH08WloZHKY
Rick D
07-28-2013, 05:44 AM
Nice to see you out having fun if your not working on the new project!
MikkoV
12-16-2013, 09:48 AM
Transmission issues with this, i got good deal from GM T56 so bought one. And got also good price from that Getrag box so...
So whatīs easiest and most cost efficient way to mate GM T56 with my Hemi
Viper bellhousing bolt pattern matches to Hemi bisedes two top holes? But input shaft is too short with that?
MikkoV
02-01-2014, 11:28 AM
Does bellhousing from challenger srt8 fit to this? bellhousing fron tr6060 fits to t56 right? Is there big lenght difference in input shafts?
Small progress with car otherwise also
rjsjea
02-01-2014, 05:09 PM
Pretty sure Quicktime has a bellhousing that mates a GM T56 to a Gen III hemi.
Try calling Mark Bowler at Bowler Transmission, he'd know or be able point you in the right direction
MikkoV
02-02-2014, 01:56 AM
Yes, this seems to be the one ->
http://www.jegs.com/i/Quick+Time+Bellhousing/698/RM-8078/10002/-1
But thatīs over 500$ everywhere, plus ~100$ shipping to here Finland.
Dodge OEM http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/HOUSING-Clutch/6890646/68061184AA.html
Is lot cheaper, and personally believe that oem product is more precise for fitment.
MikkoV
02-02-2014, 04:02 AM
Discovered interesting thing.
Lakewood rm-8077 Hemi to Chevy LS-T56 / Viper T56 (How can they sell it to both, different lenght input shafts)
Lakewood RM-8078 Hemi to Ford T56
http://lakewoodindustries.com/mopar6...t56-viper.html
http://lakewoodindustries.com/mopar6...t56-chevy.html
Jegs RM-8077 Hemi to Viper T56
Jegs RM-8078 Hemi to LS1 T56
http://www.jegs.com/i/Quick+Time+Bel...-8077/10002/-1
http://www.jegs.com/i/Quick+Time+Bel...-8078/10002/-1
Summit RM-8077 Hemi to LS1 T56 / Viper T56
Summit RM-8078 Hemi to Ford T56
http://www.summitracing.com/dom/part...8077/overview/
http://www.summitracing.com/parts/qti-rm-8078
Amazon RM-8077 Hemi to Viper T56
Amazon RM-8078 Hemi to LS1 T56
http://www.amazon.com/Lakewood-RM-80...ywords=rm-8077
http://www.amazon.com/Lakewood-RM-80.../dp/B004DCEMTG
There is somesord of mix up in this, but could it be that 8077 requires Viper input shaft or custom flywheel and pilot bearing spacer.
And 8078 is direct fit with LS T56
And, Rm-8081 for Hemi and Dodge TR6060, for new Challenger that sees to have separate bellhousing unlike Chevy TR6060. If you look picture, seems that transmission bolt pattern is same that older T56 boxes, but what would be the lenght? Canīt seem to find that dimension picture anywhere.
http://lakewoodindustries.com/mopar6-1-5-7tot56-09-10chall.html
And again, reason i investigate this, Dodge bellhousing
http://www.moparpartsoverstock.com/p/__/HOUSING-Clutch/6890646/68061184AA.html
Is A LOT cheaper
rjsjea
02-02-2014, 04:40 AM
Pretty sure the Dodge OEM one will not work
MikkoV
02-02-2014, 04:46 AM
http://forums.corral.net/forums/general-mustang-tech/1072829-swapping-tr-6060-t-56-a-8.html
Found this thread, according to that. Dodge tr6060 bolts to t56 bellhousing
MikkoV
01-01-2015, 05:38 AM
I eventually get quicktime bellhousing, now had time get back to this. I builded another dailydriver -70 Charger at meantime :)
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7555/15978235457_2324c1a6f8_b.jpg
Hemi...
Its pretty tight (impossible?) fit with steering box and drivers side exhaust manifold, any ideas which location should i move engine? If i remove A/C compressor, i can take it further back.
Itīs now about 1.5" on right of centerline and oilpan at k-frame level. How far back are these ususally mounted? Transmission tunnel seems to need quite a bit modification for T56.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7550/15541672304_8e7290349f_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7470/15544258563_ab0bfe0528_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7531/15977970259_2aca9c21e7_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7566/15541678144_2cb8f76b7e_b.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8634/16163278452_e54ccf5e73_b.jpg
Iīve been playing around with idea of fabricating bolt on subframe add-on for steering rack, that would solve issue with steeringbox, and couple other problems too.
WSSix
01-01-2015, 04:12 PM
Wish I could help, Mikko, but I don't know much about Mopars. I'm glad to see you still working on it. The orange one is nice as well. Good luck with them.
68Cuda
01-01-2015, 08:25 PM
I believe 1.5" offset is correct for B-Body. For the front / rear location and height, make sure you are clearing the steering center-link lock to lock. Do you know the location for the stock engine? I have a Mopar A-body, so I can not be much help, it is a little different. If you move the location of the engine it affects many other pieces, it is a big jigsaw puzzle.
Riddler
01-06-2015, 05:23 AM
Here's a great resource. Most of this info is from guys who have running cars and know what works.
http://www.forabodiesonly.com/mopar/forumdisplay.php?f=83
I've got a T56 swap thread there with a list of parts you need. There are also lists of what works and what doesn't. It even goes into what rad is the best and gives part numbers. A company called Champion makes a hemi swap rad and its much cheaper than Modern Muscle.
Riddler
MikkoV
02-03-2015, 02:29 PM
Progress...
I ordered 1 5/8 conversion headers from Dougs headers, those were on sale and shipping was reasonable. Fits with original subframe and steering box, and fast ratio pitman & idler arm. Went awfully close to torsion bars so bit of heating and bending was needed
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7562/16132961787_b6f5620b4e_b.jpg
Also have been planning brake setup. Got good deal on used Brembo calibers from 300C /(Magnum) SRT8, so SRT theme continues And ordered new 14" grooved discs from same car.
For rear i got 12,6" vented discs from 300C also.
I noticed earlier that 300c disc fits quite nicely to Charger hub when did brake job for wifes has-been 300C CRD.
Rear calibers? Dunno yet, maybe VW Touareg / Multivan ATE calibers? Quite reasonable priced and meant for disc that sized, and has handbrake in caliber.
Made engine brackets from Jeep ones, use this with new small block engine mount.https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8580/15698927933_7b21a02192_b.jpg
Gearbox tunnel also done and painted, and tranmission bracket.
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7390/15768412644_de488e0f80_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7399/15770851213_47d2182ce7_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7307/16203470490_6db33182fe_b.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8656/16389946872_2855c6a2ba_b.jpg
https://farm9.staticflickr.com/8646/16235272097_6a33b385ee_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7319/15798588153_7ec7327e34_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7313/16249530370_f75710d056_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7316/16249279688_89dc8c1dc2_b.jpg
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7306/15816874323_c6fe28f505_b.jpg
Also changed timing cover for engine, original was cracked in crash. Sourced one from ebay. Oli filter neck was also broken so opened two connection rod caps and checked bearings, should be first things that damage if engine has run without oil pressure, all like new so back together.
One question related to this. Ordered 4 connection rod bolts because of this, these are torqued to yield. Part number has changed and bolt design also. New bolts are 2gram lighter than original, so bottom end balance is now 8 gram of from factory balance. Should i worry about this?
https://farm8.staticflickr.com/7304/16432429031_29e8fc6c07_b.jpg
Next?
Brake and fuel line assembly, what else should i mount before engine and transmission go back in for the last time. I need to move this to floor now from my 2-pillar lift.
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