Ideas for Horsepower Mods

[Bucketlist2012]

Hey Guys, I need some input.

I have a Factory 350 LT-1 and I am not ready to do an LS swap yet.

I just had Steve at East Bay Muscle Cars update the Brakes and Suspension, and we Installed New Exhaust, Fuel tank, Headers, MSD Distributor, 6AL, ect...

So I am pretty much set up for a Small Block set up, but I need more power now..The engine has 20K miles and the rebuild is 27 years old. It feels kinda tired..

I kinda want to keep the numbers matching driveline, I THINK, for now, and I am thinking of just rebuilding the 350 LT-1..

Any thoughts on what direction I should go..Sure an LS would be nice, but that would mean taking out the brand new parts that I just had Installed.Gas Tank, Headers, ect...

If I could get 420 HP out of a rebuild, I would be happy.

Any thoughts..

I would still be going back over things that Steve just worked on, But i thought my Engine had more snap...It is not like it was in 1985...Even with only 20K miles on it.

[FETorino]

Hey Guys, I need some input.

I have a Factory 350 LT-1 and I am not ready to do an LS swap yet.


I kinda want to keep the numbers matching driveline, I THINK, for now, and I am thinking of just rebuilding the 350 LT-1..



If I could get 420 HP out of a rebuild, I would be happy.

Any thoughts..


JMO

The value of the numbers matching motor is really only there in a restoration. I think you've gone beyond that with your car. If you are really hammering it then you risk destroying your #s matching parts so if the #s thing is really important you should think about that. I like the old school carbed stuff so I feel you there.:D

Since the block is specific to your car with Vin# (I think but I'm not a Chevy guy) it isn't worth as much to somebody else as the heads.

The heads are holding you back compared to a modern set of AL aftermarket heads.

So my logic is stroke your block and top it with a good set of AL heads. I like AFR but there may be better choices for a Chevy. Run a mild solid roller spec'd to the flow of the heads you choose along with a good intake that matches the power curve you are looking for. RPM air gap comes to mind but you Chevy guys may have another preference. I'm assuming you already have a good exhaust and ignition so along with that you should easily get into the 550hp range.

71 LT heads are iron right? So the AL heads should also loose you some weight over the nose of the car. That can't hurt.:unibrow:

[Bucketlist2012]

Rob.. Thanks..

That is what Steve mentioned.. I am just so Old school, I figured the Heads are 2.02's and screw in studs, guides plates,ect..., But I guess they really are holding me back.

I could just pull the LT-1 and Install something else..You are right, I have modified the suspension, ect... so a restoration is out of the question now..

Maybe I could just get a small block stroker engine with the Aluminum heads..

Something to think about...I gotta get over the numbers matching thing i guess, and just store the engine...Probably at Steve's shop..

What would I tell the wife ???It still runs but that thing in the corner is the engine ????:wow: :wow: :rofl:

Mike

[GregWeld]

Spend 11 Grand and buy yourself a real motor....


http://www.smedingperformance.com/chevy/427+Mighty+Mouse+540+Horsepower.html



I'm running a Smeding 383 in my '32 -- it was a bargain and runs GREAT!

[Bucketlist2012]

Spend 11 Grand and buy yourself a real motor....


http://www.smedingperformance.com/chevy/427+Mighty+Mouse+540+Horsepower.html



I'm running a Smeding 383 in my '32 -- it was a bargain and runs GREAT!

Greg...Now you got me all crazy..:willy:

This would be a top secret project...I would tell the Wife I am taking it in for a "tune up"..I would then have to store the original engine at Steve's for a while..:rofl:

Oh man, that would do it...I need power to go with the brakes and handling..

I am on my Bucket List...540 HP would do it...My birthday present this year....Now you got me planning my attack...:cheers:

427 small block...Hmmm..... the 383 Extreme looks like a bargain... 450 HP ... I could get a 6 speed too if I go that route..

[makoshark]

That's a smoking price for a small block 427. Look at what you get, all forged motor, Dart block, carb to oil pan with 3 year warranty. I can guarantee that you cannot build that motor yourself for that price, with warranty and already dyno'd and tuned. Absolutely nothing wrong with sticking to the old school small blocks. I have nearly that much in my 350 and its not dyno tuned, nor does it have a warranty.

[FETorino]

Spend 11 Grand and buy yourself a real motor....


http://www.smedingperformance.com/chevy/427+Mighty+Mouse+540+Horsepower.html



I'm running a Smeding 383 in my '32 -- it was a bargain and runs GREAT!

Or that:willy:

Pretty dam cheap for a Dart block and a warranty. Great numbers under 6000 rpm where the hydraulic roller falls off. It just depends if you want to be involved in the build either doing some of the work or learning as you choose parts.

[Ron in SoCal]

You can do any of the above, but before you post another question or response for g-d sakes MAN UP...:thumbsup:

[Bucketlist2012]

Ron... LMAO.

If you mean Man up and tell the Wife, that ain't gonna happen, haha..

But if you mean am I doing it, hell yes I am..

Time to put the cash together and just do it..

Mike

[Ron in SoCal]

I like you Mike, so don't take this the wrong way, ok? Free advice:

Don't ask a question on a performance oriented website - especially about testosterone inducing horsepower - and mention anything about whether or not you will tell your wife or if she'll approve. Research and pull the trigger when the time is right in your life. Last thing 500+ is better than low 400s....:D

[FETorino]

You can do any of the above, but before you post another question or response for g-d sakes MAN UP...:thumbsup:

Yea Ron's dead on grow a set and tell your wife you're throwing a 700 hp Sideoiler in the Camaro:rofl: :rofl:

It will only cost about double the Smeding

:cheers:

[Bucketlist2012]

The problem is that the last time I told the Wife how much the Z/28 build cost so far, it cost me trading in her 10K 350Z for a 35K 370Z Sport/Touring... Ouch.

Nice car, but I would have kept the 350Z.

She also wants me to get rid of the old pickup and buy a newer nicer one..

So this engine swap will take some covert operations..It will take me a month or two to work out the details, but now I have a better Idea on what I am doing..

No LS, but a Nasty Small block and maybe a 6 speed..

The Wife would want what ??? If she finds out ? For every 25K I spend, it cost me 25K on the Wife, so double the budget...

[WSSix]

Personally, I'd go solid lifter high reving like the LT-1 was when it first came out. I'd use modern parts like aluminum heads and a solid roller cam. There's just something wicked about a solid lifter engine. So long as you don't make it too difficult to remove the valve covers it won't be hard to do the periodic valve lash adjustments. Oh and go fuel injected. It's so much more enjoyable once it's set up correctly.

I would set your original engine aside though. It's also stamped as being an LT-1 not just being for your car. There may be some other restoration person needing a date coded LT-1 and you could have what they need.

[Sandbagger]

Id stick a 400 crank in there roller / al heads . Keep your # s matching block

[Bucketlist2012]

I like you Mike, so don't take this the wrong way, ok? Free advice:

Don't ask a question on a performance oriented website - especially about testosterone inducing horsepower - and mention anything about whether or not you will tell your wife or if she'll approve. Research and pull the trigger when the time is right in your life. Last thing 500+ is better than low 400s....:D

Ron, Somehow I missed this post.

To summarize, just do it, and don't mention the Wife..

Also 500HP is the goal.

Got it :cheers:

[Ron in SoCal]

No LS, but a Nasty Small block and maybe a 6 speed..

The Wife would want what ??? If she finds out ? For every 25K I spend, it cost me 25K on the Wife, so double the budget...

That's called 'the luxury tax' my man...:lol: :cheers:

[Bucketlist2012]

That's called 'the luxury tax' my man...:lol: :cheers:

:rofl: Stupid me. I hadn't factored that into my Budget. :willy:

Still have the Interior to go through, but screw that. That can wait.

This will never be a SEMA car, more of a take it out and beat it kinda car.

So I have a few months to plan what to do. But to compete with today's new Hot rods, I HAVE to do something.

Back in 1985, With a fresh LT-1, I ruled the streets...Not anymore..

So I just have to plan what I am doing.. I Would have saved some money that I already spent had I known I would be doing engine work. We did the Balancer, Timing chain, Pan leak, ect...

The thing sounds mean with the 280H cam, but it has lost some of it's Mojo..

So I either redo the Top end, or pull the whole thing out..

EDIT... Ron I just saw your build thread....I need to just start over...Your car is Bad A$$.

[intocarss]

#1... Stick the orig complete LT1 in the corner of the garage

#2... You buy the SBC 427 or??

#3... You buy the wife a new living room set

#4... Problem solved & everyone is happy! :yes:

[Bucketlist2012]

#1... Stick the orig complete LT1 in the corner of the garage

#2... You buy the SBC 427

#3... You buy the wife a new living room set

#4... problem solved! :yes:

Already bought her a new Living room set..Family room set...Kitchen upgrade is being finished now...Back splash is left to do.

Hardwood floors...Wrought Iron staircase....370Z..All done...

So I start my plan now, and by Winter I will be ready..

LT-1 will stay at Steve's for a while....

Bang for my buck, the 383 seems like a better deal. The 427 is twice the price for 90 more HP...

[WSSix]

Make sure you start with a one piece rear main seal block. Also, go with center bolt valve cover heads so you don't have to worry about oil leaks up top.

Also, go with six inch connecting rods in the motor.

[Flash68]

Spend 11 Grand and buy yourself a real motor....


http://www.smedingperformance.com/chevy/427+Mighty+Mouse+540+Horsepower.html




That's a smoking price for a small block 427. Look at what you get, all forged motor, Dart block, carb to oil pan with 3 year warranty. I can guarantee that you cannot build that motor yourself for that price, with warranty and already dyno'd and tuned. Absolutely nothing wrong with sticking to the old school small blocks. I have nearly that much in my 350 and its not dyno tuned, nor does it have a warranty.

Heck you can get 540 hp out of a hydraulic roller 383 with good quality parts for a lot less.

I'd say keep the block if it's good, stroke it and put some good heads on there and you'll be happy with over 500hp. :thumbsup:

[Bucketlist2012]

Heck you can get 540 hp out of a hydraulic roller 383 with good quality parts for a lot less.

I'd say keep the block if it's good, stroke it and put some good heads on there and you'll be happy with over 500hp. :thumbsup:

Thanks.. I will look into that..


That is why I am asking, so I get opinions. I won't pull the trigger until around Christmas.

I will go in for a "tune up"...:thumbsup:

[intocarss]

I do like the idea of big Cubic Inches. But I agree with Flash. My buddy built Mike Wrights (Black 69 PT Camaro) 383 and it makes 541 Hp and 519 tq

It's JMOHO but you have a 70's OEM LT1(From carb to pan) Why gut it just so you can use the block. It's got to be worth some $$ as a whole? If you're going with a OEM block , you can find those pretty cheap. Then get your rotating assembly, cam, heads etc and you're ready to go. I myself prefer an after market block for anything over 500Hp

[Flash68]

Good call, Jer.... Mike's 383 is a perfect example. :thumbsup:

[Bucketlist2012]

Thanks for the Info..

I was always about it being a Real Z/28 with the real driveline, but I have gone crazy on the suspension and brakes, so it may not matter anymore..

I may just want to set the whole engine aside In case I ever sell it, and replace the engine and M-21 with something new.

I agree with not gutting it because it is original from Carb to pan. except for the comp cam valvetrain..And it is .40 over

What about local engine builder's ? I still am going to ask Steve about it, but I wanted to get opinions before I talk to him..

My timeline is Around the holidays and the new year..So plenty of time to think and also beat the snot out of the set up I have now.

I will autocross this set up in November in Pleasanton before doing anything..

[clill]

I agree with saving the orig. #'s matching engine. If you look around you can probably find a great deal on a built up smallblock that someone has taken out because they are putting a LS in. That leads me to my next suggestion which is to bite the bullet and switch over to a LS engine. They are just lightyears ahead of what you are wanting to throw money at.

And didn't someone just recently post problems with a Smeding engine they had just bought ?

[Bucketlist2012]

I just threw a ton of money on parts for my Small block...Ceramic coated headers, aluminum water pump, fuel tank, ect... They are brand new.

If I knew my LT-1 was feeling tired, I wouldn't have thrown all the money at it, and I would have waited to go LS.

I may just have to increase the power on what I have and live with it for a while.

[GregWeld]

I've never heard of an engine builder that "someone" hasn't had a problem with... :lol: Usually it's never the actual person that BOUGHT something - but they had a "friend" or someone they knew that did...

[Bucketlist2012]

It isn't like my car doesn't run, and it is a mid 13 to low second car.

So I may just wait until the end of the Year to see where the Election and the tax cuts go..

I mean I can still drive my car, and Cash is good to have for now...

[hotrod69camaro]

I put together a 383 hydraulic roller pump gas sbc for my 69 and it was between 10 and 11k. Made 541 HP on the dyno. And thats starting with everything new.

[Bucketlist2012]

I put together a 383 hydraulic roller pump gas sbc for my 69 and it was between 10 and 11k. Made 541 HP on the dyno. And thats starting with everything new.

Thanks. Good to hear it..:cheers:

[glassman]

Mike, Smeding also has the 450 horsey 383 for $6895, comes with a carb, distributor and dyno sheet.

My next door neighboor and good friend just bought one for his factory five mark IV (Ford 427 with a Dart block).

I met Ben Smeding a couple of months ago, good guy, rides KTM too...lol

[Flash68]

Rob Chandler just had one of these motors built for him. Made 682 hp on pump gas with hyd roller. :D

http://www.j-performance.com/index.php?option=com_content&task=view&id=37

[Vegas69]

Whatever you build, make sure it's tailored to your specific ideals. If you do plan to really road race, put a road race pan on it. If you don't want to work on it all the time, don't build a rowdy combo. If you don't think adjusting valves on a Friday night is your idea of a good time, go hydraulic. You get the point.

I'd go LS before I sunk a penny in a small block.