67 bird fender lip rolling

[ricer]

i have search and really didn't find any info for my particular situation. I am going to roll the lip on a 67 bird but have a question before i actually do it. I tried a test spot to see how much force is required to get the metal to move and it seems like an awful lot and am worried about damaging the 1/4 panel (double layer of metal on the lip making it pretty strong and barely plyable) and spots welds seem pretty beefy.

I don't have wheels/tires yet so i can't do the bat method, and don't think the eastwood tool is going to be strong enough to move it. So i was contemplating cutting slits in the lip every couple of inches (being careful not to hit the spot welds, perpendicular to the lip) and do it that way. I don't want to cut the entire lip off and dress the seams so that is out as well.

I am by no means a body person so wanted to get opinions before i actually go ahead and do this. Also no body work has started just replaced panels and is in epoxy primer.

[Spiffav8]

I rolled the fender lip on the 67 Camaro I had a few years back. I just took my time and slow rolled it. LoL Everything worked out fine.

Do you have an Eastwood fender roller?

[ricer]

i don't, but i believe there are people on here that rent them out. Just didn't think that would be able to apply enough pressure to move it. Seems pretty strong. I pressed a bat into the lip while sitting on the ground pushing up and the rear corner began to lift off the jackstand and the lip never moved. The car is just a shell right now so there is not that much weight to it to apply downforce

[Ketzer]

The Eastwood roller will put a lot more force on the fender than you think. It will not do it in one or two passes. It realy does take a while, back and forth, coaxing the metal. If you have nice paint, you gotta get it pretty warm or it will chip and flake.



Jeff-

[elitecustombody]

Whatever you do, do not cut slits. All you're going to do is make a mess .Trust me, I've done a quite a few fender rolls and have seen it all. As long as the rear end is bolted in with axles,Eastwood roller will fold that lip,no matter how strong you think it is.I've had to push out quarters almost 1.5 inches with a roller to clear the tires on some cars

Here are couple pics of a hack job I had to deal with

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj260/elitecustombody/DSC00441.jpg
http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj260/elitecustombody/DSC00442.jpg

And here is a pic after all that mess was cleaned up

http://i274.photobucket.com/albums/jj260/elitecustombody/DSC00447.jpg

[skatinjay27]

did you weld up the relieve slits back up? or just cut the lips?
you cant tell from that pic.

[elitecustombody]

I cut all of that hacked mess off, feathered the paint ,primed and spot painted the lip. Obviously that is not F-body,I work on a lot of MKIV Supras, the lip can be cut completely flush without the risk of separating even with few subs in the trunk.