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G/A-body
06-08-2012, 03:12 PM
I have started piecing together the accessory drive for the LS1 in my El Camino. I discovered that I needed to move the engine up and forward so the AC would clear the crossmember. This will also raise the oil pan so it doesn't hang below. This required new motor mounts. I have mocked up the motor mounts and need to make the towers from the frame. I am going to shorten the motor mount height to make room for the frame towers. Before I start doing so I thought it a good idea to let others look and see if I might be missing something regarding clearances or any other issues.

The alternator is very close to the steering box. I am planning on going with the Lee streering box, but have not seen a side by side comparison for dimensions. I have read that overall it is smaller.

Old Motor Mounts:

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/aka765/Projects/Projects211.jpg

Oil Pan Clearance (Lack of):

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/aka765/Projects/Projects212.jpg

New Mounts:

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/aka765/Projects/Projects225.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/aka765/Projects/Projects223.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/aka765/Projects/Projects222.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/aka765/Projects/Projects229.jpg

Clearance:

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/aka765/Projects/Projects228.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/aka765/Projects/Projects226.jpg

http://i942.photobucket.com/albums/ad264/aka765/Projects/Projects231.jpg

Thanks

MaxHarvard
06-08-2012, 03:59 PM
Robert,

That seems like a lot of work just to get the lower AC bracket to work. A lot of guys here (myself included) have switched to something like the Kwik Performance set up. There are some who have notched the frame at the point of the AC unit, which seems like a lot better option and less work in the long run then what you plan on doing now.

Just my $.02.

~Eric

Z06vette
06-08-2012, 05:49 PM
Also consider the amount your are changing the driveline angle. You may have to cut the tunnel enough to raise the tailshaft of the tranny to keep the angle at 3* down or less. Is that the GM musclecar pan? If so that pan hangs lower than other LS swap pans. I second the quick barcket for the AC. Are you going to have solid motor mounts? OK for race car I guess but not my choice for street car. Looks like nice build. What are your plans for it?
Scott

rallystyle
06-08-2012, 09:59 PM
i would spend the money on a mast or holley oil pan. for accessory drive a corvette or the kwik setup would work the best to clear the p/s box. kwik also makes a setup to move the a/c up top to clear the frame.

http://www.carcraft.com/techarticles/ccrp_0905_ls_accessory_drive_swap_guide/index.html
http://www.kwikperf.com/lsx_ac.html

G/A-body
06-09-2012, 12:38 AM
Thanks for the feedback, I appreciate your $.02 Eric. That’s part of asking. I looked at and considered the Kwik Performance setup because it got good reviews. The biggest factor against it was I like the “cleaner” appearance of the lower mounted accessories.

Scott, as it sits the driveline angle is at 3*. There is lots of clearance at the transmission tunnel. The current transmission is a TH350, which I had built for the car before going with the LS1. I planned to go with a Gear Vendors overdrive, however, have heard mixed reviews. The oil pan is the LH8 oil pan. It has been used on several other G-body swaps, but it might be worth looking at one of those you mentioned. The motor mounts use a urethane bushing at the connection point. The frame and front suspension is mostly completed. The back uses a watts link and I have a 9 inch housing for it. Corvette brakes all around. Has the vette six pistons up front. Lots of plans and there never seems to be enough money.

I have been able to piece my accessory drive together for about $250.00. That included buying the motor mounts.

MaxHarvard
06-09-2012, 09:40 AM
If that's your plan, then I would notch the frame instead of doing all that other work for very little gain.