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Project_Gotham
03-05-2006, 10:10 PM
Has anyone used it? If so what are you thoughts and how do you apply it?

jyeager
03-06-2006, 04:58 AM
Yes, I've used it.

It's great stuff! It actually works as advertised. You can simply brush off rusty areas, then paint with this stuff and it's sealed in a steal-like caccoon for life.

It's as hard as steal. I accidentally got some on a nut and couldn't remove it with a hammer and chisel!

It's not pretty, and not UV stable (it fades) so if you apply it to say a frame. You might want to top-coat it with the appropriate chassis black. To top coat it you've got to either top coat when it's still tacky, or use POR's special primer on top of it before top-coating.

I recommend you get some of their special solvent because I found it the only thing that would effectively remove it from your skin (and then only within the first hour). You can also get a good solvent for cleanup, but you'll want their special stuff for the 'real' cleanup tasks...meaning your skin, and if you want to reuse a brush you need to clean it in the good stuff too.

I applied it with a brush, it has nice flowability and brush strokes never remained. I just disposed of each brush upon completion. I used it for my frame, and suspension parts as well as the inside floorboards that wouldn't be seen.

almcbri
03-06-2006, 05:38 AM
http://photobucket.com/albums/a312/almcbri/Project%20Old%20School/?sc=1&multi=4&addtype=local&media=image&test=test

I didn't use Por 15, but here is an alternative if you are coating the underbody.
I took my car and had it sprayed with a rhino liner style bed liner. It turned out great. I am not sure what parts you are coating exactly.

BC69
03-06-2006, 07:06 AM
I used it a long time ago. Make sure whatever surface you are applying it too is clean!!! And use the metal prep that is comes with, because it needs something to grip onto or it will flake! Thats what happened to me. I also put the POR down, then topcoated it with just a gloss black.
As far as how it stands up to driving and a beating, I dont know, it was on the car while I pushed it up and down my driveway for fun. :rolleyes:


Tim

jyeager
03-06-2006, 09:02 AM
Tim brings up an important point of clarification....

If you are putting it on clean/smooth metal you'll want to apply their metal prep first, and perhaps even scuff it.

If you are applying it to an oxidized or rusty surface, simply wire brushing it will be all it needs (unless it's all greasy).

Project_Gotham
03-06-2006, 10:39 AM
I got the car back from the media blaster, I had them blast the whole floor of the car, bottom and top, from trunk to firewall. They used a more abrasive matierial that made the metal feel almost like sand paper. They said it will make paint stick much better.
I want to cover the bare metal before it rust but i have to replace the front section floor pan. Should I wait until i cut and weld in the new peices? Im afraid if i use POR 15 and then cut out the pan then replace it, then repaint that section, i will have problems cutting through the tough paint.

jyeager
03-06-2006, 12:05 PM
Fresh blasted metal is an ideal surface for POR15 to adhere to. No other prep is needed, just brush it on.

This stuff is tough, but not tougher than metal! If you can cut the metal, you can cut the metal coated in POR15 too so don't let that be a factor in your sequence.

That being said, POR15 adheres great to oxidized metal too. So if you left the metal for a while and it had minor surface rust you could then brush on the POR15 with absolutely no downsides.

And THAT being said, bare metal, kept in a garage won't rust...except where you touch it...or like happened to me, my kids had a squirt gun fight in the garage.
I had a car in bare metal (portions of it) for over a year and no surface rust set in even though the doors were open on 100% humidity days. It only rusted where I touched it, or where water directly touched it.

So in the end, it shouldn't matter whether you POR15 it now or later unless it's going to be sitting outside.

Project_Gotham
03-06-2006, 01:00 PM
thanks for the info! :thumbsup:
I'll remember to remove all water guns and water balloon fights from the garage!!! :lol:

promax/vennom#16
03-06-2006, 01:40 PM
I have a buddy that has a body shop, and they swear by the product as long as the prep work is done right, make sure the surface is clean and rust free!!
They use it when restoring a ride for a customer. Like the others said it's not pretty, but it works.

Dave

jyeager
03-06-2006, 02:04 PM
Disregard that 'rust free' comment...this stuff works best when painted right on top of rust (not loose, scaley rust though).

Right from their web site: "Use POR-15® to coat rusty frames, floor pans, farm equipment, marine equipment, or even a heavily corroded battery tray."

Here's some info that's good to know: http://www.por15.com/Portals/0/uploads/Files/no%20read%20directions.pdf

Note that part about the lid being permanently bonded to the can! I found it best to buy a bunch of pint-sized cans because if you open the big can and don't use it again for a month, it's generally bad.

The big can would be best if you were going to do the entire vehicle body and frame in one weekend. I used the stuff for control arms, gas tank, frame...pretty much anywhere chassis black went, but it took me a while to get around to all these parts, hence the bunch of little cans.