Joe Gibbs Oil

[canrc]

I just ordered the Joe Gibbs LS30 Oil -- says it's specifically developed for LS motors. Anyone have any thoughts on this stuff?

[Vegas69]

Marketing....

[canrc]

ahh crap!:faint:
I guess I will use it for a couple oil changes since I fell for the marketing and ordered a box of it.

Any suggestions on what oil to use? and filter reccomendation?

[Sieg]

The best oil is the cheapest that meets the manufacturers specifications. :D

As Todd said it's more marketing and brand confidence than performance.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

[intocarss]

Joe Gibbs products are good. I run a K&N oil filter and been happy with them

[Matt@BOS]

The best oil is the cheapest that meets the manufacturers specifications. :D

As Todd said it's more marketing and brand confidence than performance.
http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Motor_oil

Is it? I am an idiot when it comes to this topic, so I always ask everyone's opinion on the subject, and it seems a fair amount of people recommend the niche oil brands, citing that they have more additives than say, Mobil 1 10w30. Sometimes I do wonder if it makes a difference or not...

Matt

[Vegas69]

I'm not saying it's not great oil, just making oil from one specific engine is a little bit of a stretch for me.

Now, you do need to be careful with an engine with injection as some additives are known to be hard on Oxegyn sensors. That may be their angle.

[canrc]

wanna buy some slick 50 and some split fire spark plugs to go with that special oil...roflmfao

Thanks for the offer but I think I will go with one of these intakes -- split fires didn't give me the horse power as the guy on TV said...

http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y346/canrc12/Turbointake.jpg

[canrc]

I'm not saying it's not great oil, just making oil from one specific engine is a little bit of a stretch for me.

Now, you do need to be careful with an engine with injection as some additives are known to be hard on Oxegyn sensors. That may be their angle.

Thanks Todd -- I will give this oil a try, I ordered it online from Joe Gibbs it works out to the same price or cheaper than any of the other stuff sold here locally.

[intocarss]

Thanks for the offer but I think I will go with one of these intakes -- split fires didn't give me the horse power as the guy on TV said...

http://i1028.photobucket.com/albums/y346/canrc12/Turbointake.jpg

You'll need it with an LS eng :rofl:

[HEEP]

What is that? Turbo in a can?

[Sieg]

Is it? I am an idiot when it comes to this topic, so I always ask everyone's opinion on the subject, and it seems a fair amount of people recommend the niche oil brands, citing that they have more additives than say, Mobil 1 10w30. Sometimes I do wonder if it makes a difference or not...

Matt

Matt, it's a never ending debate on which oil is best. Bottom line is the manufactuers and oil engineers rely on the specifications to establish the benchmarks for specific engine platforms.

I'm more sensitive about oil with my Ducati or KTM 4-stroke engines as the are high reving v-twins and singles that push the power to displacement envelope...........and they're expensive as h*ll to rebuild. :D

In my old school 1st gen small block I'm running Shell Rotela T 15-40 Camaro. Gallon bottles are around $13. 5 gal pails $64.

Bottomline from testing I've seen is quality air and oil filters make more difference than oil brands on engine life assuming reasonable routine service schedules. Running neodymium magnets on your oil filter housing is also proven via oil analysis to reduce iron particulates in your oil system that get past your air and oil filters.

Friction modifiers in any oil do brake down so frequent changes after high stress usage is good insurance no matter the grade. Synthetics can buy you more laps or miles between changes without effecting machined surfaces.

So depending on your usage.........

[intocarss]

Good chart and info of who makes who's oil filters

http://minimopar.knizefamily.net/oilfilters/reference.html

When Mobil one took more of the zinc content out I switched to Rotella oil because of their higher zinc content. Now most of that has been removed to make it more green, I Run Red line racing wt 30 in my race engs and Rotella in my street stuff and hod rod stuff

The way the Oil Co's are pulling zinc out , looks like Classic High perf eng oil is the way to go if running a solid roller or solid flat tappet cam

[GregWeld]

I run Pure Power filters on all my stuff - including my Ford diesel.

The man that owns Pure Power is an oil engineer.... and he talked me into running Delo 400 in my stuff. But that was BEFORE the LE entered the market which is the new stuff they've taken the zinc and moly out of.

I'm running Amsoil in the truck now -- Joe Gibbs Hot Rod oil in the hot rods - and Redline 40 wt Race oil in the Mutt.

[Blake Foster]

My Engine builder likes the JoeGibbs BR oil as it is a break in oil that has the most Zinc and moly and what ever other junk they throw in there. and he lokes the Moroso filters.
i havent seen one of his motors come appart................ for what's that worth.
personally i would choose synthetic, i used to use Torco i back in the day and tere was never any wear showing on the bearings.

[preston]

FWIW my machinist insists on Joe Gibbs oil as well. Says any parts store oils aren't designed to support 800hp small blocks.

also I invested in a CM remote oil filter which is a nice aluminum canister with replaceable filter elements, already to plumb with AN lines. Huge jump in filtering quality, it uses replacement filter elements that run about $12 apiece, but are instantly inspectable. In fact if you were so inclined you can replace the filter without even draining the oil.
Its really not that expensive about $120 for the initial canister and it looks way more racy then the standard remote mount parts store filter. I bought mine from Coleman racing but Hoerr sells them as well.