67 Camaro project "It Don't Fit"

[Sonar Chief]

I finally got my car up on my new rotisserie! I haven't been able to spin it over yet, though. It took me 11 hours today to get the rotisserie finished and mounted to the car. I, now, need to find center of gravity and then I can commence working on the car.

This is my final stage of getting all the welding done on the car and finish out the bottom with U-Pol Raptor liner. I'm using their tintable version. I decided I want the bottom to be the same color as the top, which is blue.

I'll post pixes as soon as I can spin the car over. I have a light day at work tomorrow, so I'm planning to get COG and get'er spun over manana.

Nice!!!! up on a rotisserie, that is a GOOD GARAGE DAY fer sure :gitrdun:
:popcorn2:

[makoshark]

Finally got'r did!

Now I can get back to work on the car

[Sonar Chief]

Nice! But your garage is sideways :ohsnap: Now get some work done :poke:

[tubbed69]

that sure makes it alot easier,be done soon now:thumbsup:

[makoshark]

Thanks guys:cheers:

No excuses now, huh

Picture doesn't show the roto I built for my house

[makoshark]

I've been looking over the bottom of my car to get a game plan to finish it out. My intentions are to paint the bottom of the car with tintable U-Pol Raptor liner mixed with blue paint. I want the wheel wells to be black, but don't really see a good place to make the transition from blue to black. Also, I have the DSE subframe connectors that do show from the bottom of the car slightly. I don't really see a good place to paint those black either.

Anyone have any ideas on the best way to do this? Or should I just paint the whole bottom blue and forget about it?

[Sonar Chief]

I've been looking over the bottom of my car to get a game plan to finish it out. My intentions are to paint the bottom of the car with tintable U-Pol Raptor liner mixed with blue paint. I want the wheel wells to be black, but don't really see a good place to make the transition from blue to black. Also, I have the DSE subframe connectors that do show from the bottom of the car slightly. I don't really see a good place to paint those black either.

Anyone have any ideas on the best way to do this? Or should I just paint the whole bottom blue and forget about it?

Just Git-R-Dun ... ifn it's Blue ya want? Paint all blue! Your house is on a roto?

[makoshark]

That's what I'm going to do, paint it all blue. However, I will paint the wheel wells black. Looks like I can follow the lines of the inner wheel well as a transition point and the frame rails will be blue.

Is my house on a roto? Not really:) iPhone just loaded the picture up funny.

I spent the day grinding welds from the mini-tub install and finishing up some welds on the subframe connectors. Now, I just need to go in the trunk and fix some miscuts from the mini-tub install and I'll just about have the bottom ready to paint after finish prepping it.

No picture worthy progress made today.

[makoshark]

Since I have gotten the shell mounted to the rotisserie, I've been going over the body searching for areas that still needed attention with the welder. I'm nearly done with all the welding to the shell. I still have a bit left to do, but took a break the other day from welding and started cleaning things up on the car. I sanded the interior of the car down in preparations of get some epoxy on the inside. I'm moving ever closer to spraying the finish on the bottom of the car. I'm shooting for Sunday at the latest at having the bottom finished and the shell in its final primer stage.

In my effort to get the bottom done, I'm trying to finish up all the welds. I fabricated and welded in a trunk mount battery tray and a bracket to mount the remote starter solenoid. They are nothing to get excited about, just simple pieces to get the job done. They will all be hidden by my amps and possible fake wall anyway.

So, I'm trying to determine if I need to weld anything else in regards to the trunk mount battery. I have the battery mount welded in and the remote starter solenoid. Am I missing anything else in that department?

[Sonar Chief]

Since I have gotten the shell mounted to the rotisserie, I've been going over the body searching for areas that still needed attention with the welder. I'm nearly done with all the welding to the shell. I still have a bit left to do, but took a break the other day from welding and started cleaning things up on the car. I sanded the interior of the car down in preparations of get some epoxy on the inside. I'm moving ever closer to spraying the finish on the bottom of the car. I'm shooting for Sunday at the latest at having the bottom finished and the shell in its final primer stage.

In my effort to get the bottom done, I'm trying to finish up all the welds. I fabricated and welded in a trunk mount battery tray and a bracket to mount the remote starter solenoid. They are nothing to get excited about, just simple pieces to get the job done. They will all be hidden by my amps and possible fake wall anyway.

So, I'm trying to determine if I need to weld anything else in regards to the trunk mount battery. I have the battery mount welded in and the remote starter solenoid. Am I missing anything else in that department?

Battery Disconnect Switch? Maybe a sturdy mount for the switch would nice, thanks for the email.

[seankc31]

Few more photos of the car and where it is at the moment
I know this is old but were did you get your shifter from?

[makoshark]

Lokar 6" automatic transmission billet shifter with their optional LED billet bezel and Naugahyde shifter boot

[seankc31]

Ok thanks ill look into it

[makoshark]

Welcome:cheers:

[tubbed69]

How's that rotisserie working out?making any progress on the bottom side?:gitrdun:

[makoshark]

Rotisserie is working great! They sure make life easier.

I've just about finished all the welding I needed to get finished up. I'm in the process of finalizing the audio system install. I'm welding in some plates to mount some speakers in the kick areas and then will be done with all the welding.

I'm going to go back and work a little more on the Airbar fitment. When I pulled my car out of the garage a few months ago, I didn't like how the rearend was sitting under the car, so I'm making sure the cradle was installed properly. Unfortunately, I'll have to mockup the rear suspension again. I need to get all this done before I put the finish paint underneath.

I'm also trying to work out the fuel and brake line routing. I replaced the floor pans and do not remember where the original clips were located. Also, I've installed DSE subframe connectors and trying to figure out how to cross the lines over the connectors.

I've had pinkeye all week, so I haven't managed to do much of anything on the car. It's nearly healed up, so its bout time to get back at it.

Thanks for asking:)

Been driving your car yet?

[makoshark]

What did everyone do with DSE subframe connectors when routing the fuel and brake lines? How did you cross over the connector? Did you fab a channel into the connector or did you just route them over the it?

Also, my Ridetech Airbar on one side has a mm of touching at the back of the floor pan and the other side is about 1/8" away from the back of the floor pan. This is where the forward tube crosses over from frame rail to frame rail. Will this be sufficient or should I address this?

[Tony V]

well i had the same issue but because i'm mounting my master cylinder inside the dash i decided to run my brake line inside the car....i just mocked it up so far but will post some pics shortly... the way you have it mocked up looks fine .....keep at progress is looking good

[coolwelder62]

The project is progressing nicely.I'm glad you desided to finish it.:thumbsup: :gitrdun:

[makoshark]

Thanks guys. I'm hanging in there

[Vince@Meanstreets]

What did everyone do with DSE subframe connectors when routing the fuel and brake lines? How did you cross over the connector? Did you fab a channel into the connector or did you just route them over the it?

Also, my Ridetech Airbar on one side has a mm of touching at the back of the floor pan and the other side is about 1/8" away from the back of the floor pan. This is where the forward tube crosses over from frame rail to frame rail. Will this be sufficient or should I address this?

I'd weld in a 1/8" plate to connect the bar to the floor pan.

for the lines I cut in a channel. sits up tighter when the clamps are bolted up.

[makoshark]

Thanks Vince!

Are you talking about the 2 plates that Ridetech has revised the latest Airbar with that attach at the back of the floor pan seam? I just found out the other day they had made that revision and meant to call them about it. Did they use 1/8" to make those?

[LS7 Z/28]

Looking good, I really need to invest in a rotisserie like that. That helps like crazy I'm sure.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

Thanks Vince!

Are you talking about the 2 plates that Ridetech has revised the latest Airbar with that attach at the back of the floor pan seam? I just found out the other day they had made that revision and meant to call them about it. Did they use 1/8" to make those?

or 11g, looks closer.

On the channel, I welded up a 3 pieces to make a channel. The flat of the channel was contured to match the brake and fuel lines then sides were bent and shaped to match. Then sunk it in a bit deeper than the lines.


If I did it again I would have moved it forward a 1/2"

[makoshark]

Thanks Vince. I'm still on the fence about doing this modification. I'll either do this or try and bend the lines to fit around the connectors better.

[makoshark]

I went ahead and modified the DSE subframe connectors so that the fuel and brake lines passed over them properly. This took me a long afternoon to cut, fab and weld these up. A lot more difficult to make these than they look.

I have also spent nearly 4 days hand sanding the bottom of the car, inside the car and inside the trunk in preparation to spray the finish on the bottom and inside the trunk. I just need to prime some raw metal and spot prime some sand thrus, seam seal and spray the U-Pol Raptor liner.

Almost there!

[tubbed69]

that looks good the way you ran the lines,nice work:thumbsup:

[makoshark]

Thanks Jeff

[makoshark]

Just finished block sanding the exterior of the shell this afternoon and evening. That finishes up all the sanding on the shell with the exception of the tail panel and firewall. I'll address those once I get them off the rotisserie. The bottom, inside and outside of the car is completely sanded now and ready for the next stage.

I'll have some pics up of the outcome this weekend:popcorn2:

[makoshark]

I have finally completed all the sanding I needed done tonight. I vacuumed and blew out dust from the car 4 times. I vacuumed the floor 3 times and cleaned the garage out.

Now, I'm ready for a busy day tomorrow:excited:

[Sonar Chief]

Well .....? Throw us a bone .... keep up the good work!

[Roberts68]

I'm going to be checking back for details on the connector channeling Vince talked you into. Do you think it could be done easier prior to installing connectors with advice from you guys in the form of measurements?

Thanks for checking my hibernation status the other day. It means a lot to have support like that... Oh, and speaking of support contgrats on the rotisserie.

Now, I believe Chief wants pics! Bring 'em on.

[makoshark]

Well .....? Throw us a bone .... keep up the good work!

Ha! Sorry, was still gnawing on that bone:)

I finished the base prime tonight. It took waaaayyy longer than I expected to just get the base prime on. I spent the entire day yesterday wiping the car down with wax/grease remover and then masking off what I didn't want painted.

I'm not happy with HOK epoxy primer. I sprayed an entire gallon on today just on what you see. I did a little priming in the trunk and the outside of the front inner fenders and dash face that I didn't get any pics of.

I'll sand all I primed today, tomorrow, and hopefully get the car cleaned up again and spray the entire outside of the shell with the high build primer.

[makoshark]

I'm going to be checking back for details on the connector channeling Vince talked you into. Do you think it could be done easier prior to installing connectors with advice from you guys in the form of measurements?

Thanks for checking my hibernation status the other day. It means a lot to have support like that... Oh, and speaking of support contgrats on the rotisserie.

Now, I believe Chief wants pics! Bring 'em on.

Glad to see you back over here Robert! Gotta keep you motivated:bump:

I think you could get them fitted to the car and just do a few tack welds to hold them in place. Then, lay out the lines and trace out where they crossover the connectors. Then remove the connectors and cut them and make the modification. With that said, to me, it seems easier to do with them already installed. Vince may know otherwise, so you might want to hit him up for that. However, it wasn't difficult to do the mod with them installed already. It took me about 5 or so hours to get them cut, make the channel and weld it in and then finish out the welds.

Thanks, the rotisserie makes life so much easier working on the car. It sure helped while doing all the priming I did tonight. I couldn't imagine going this far into a build and not using one.

[Sonar Chief]

:popcorn2: Looks very nice .... what didn't you like about the HOK epoxy? You gonna spray your liner right over the epoxy, right?

Looking good :thumbsup:

[makoshark]

Thanks Chief!

It took me a while to figure out the best way to spray the HOK epoxy. I'm used to using regular epoxy and the HOK version is a bit different. The tech sheet says you can use between a 1.5-1.8 tip and reduce up to 10% if wanted. I started out with a 1.5 tip of unreduced product. My gun, nor I, liked spraying it like that, so after the gun was empty the first time I started reducing it and switched tips to a 1.8 tip. It laid out much better this way. However, this stuff is very heavy and has quite a bit of over spray.

When I was reading through the tech sheet, it never stated anything about a recoat window, so I contacted HOK and they said it is meant to be sanded before the next coat of product. I was wanting to go right over the epoxy with the high build without sanding. I'm going to have to sand everything I sprayed today and then reclean the car before the next stage of priming. I should have read the tech sheet before buying the product. It has a good amount of build to it, though. HOK stated it is a high build epoxy, so that is a plus as I can have more build to sand. Hopefully it sands easier than the DuPont epoxy. DuPont's version is not meant to be sanded and I hope to never have to sand that stuff anymore. I block sanded my car prior to what you see now and it was like sanding concrete:bang:

Now, I gotta sand, clean and prime again. I used up all the HOK epoxy, which was 4 quarts of product that I had on hand. I don't know if I'll buy more of this or not. I still have the doors, fenders, trunk lid, hood, header panel and front lower valance to work on.:rolleyes:

[makoshark]

More progress photos:popcorn2:

I had hoped to have more done by today, but progress is progress. I managed to get the bodywork done on the dash face, seam sealed all the seams on the firewall and the front floor pan seam, and glued the dash face in with 3M body adhesive. I also seam sealed the rear wheel house seams. Now, I just have to sand the body again and spray the high build. After that is finally time to spray some color on the bottom of the car in the form of Raptor liner. This week maybe?

[Musclerodz]

More progress photos:popcorn2:

I had hoped to have more done by today, but progress is progress. I managed to get the bodywork done on the dash face, seam sealed all the seams on the firewall and the front floor pan seam, and glued the dash face in with 3M body adhesive. I also seam sealed the rear wheel house seams. Now, I just have to sand the body again and spray the high build. After that is finally time to spray some color on the bottom of the car in the form of Raptor liner. This week maybe?Cool project. On the tinted raptor, what color are you going? Depending on color, I have had it not match close enough to my liking. It also shrinks so if you don't have a good bond, it will pull away from reverse curve. I have used SEM liner on last couple cars and it color matches including metallics pretty good.

[makoshark]

Cool project. On the tinted raptor, what color are you going? Depending on color, I have had it not match close enough to my liking. It also shrinks so if you don't have a good bond, it will pull away from reverse curve. I have used SEM liner on last couple cars and it color matches including metallics pretty good.

I'll be painting it mixed with blue. What would keep it from not making a good bond? I have every thing sanded with 180 grit and have wiped it twice with wax and grease remover

[Musclerodz]

I'll be painting it mixed with blue. What would keep it from not making a good bond? I have every thing sanded with 180 grit and have wiped it twice with wax and grease remover
not paying close enough attention to prep. I had a big issue with one car in particular, but it was from poor prep of ex employee. Didn't start showing up until about 6 months after it was applied.

[makoshark]

If I have sanded every millimeter with 180 to the point of leaving my DNA on the car, re-epoxy primed all bare metal sandthroughs and then wiped with wax and grease remover till the towels are clean after wiping, what else could I do to properly prep for the Raptor liner?

[tubbed69]

You are doing a very good job on your car,that's a lot of work sanding over and over but it is gone to be very well done and you will be happy with it,when you start seeing some blue paint soon all the extra work will pay off,great job so far.:thumbsup:

[makoshark]

Thanks Jeff! I'm dreading the next round of sanding that is currently waiting on me. My hands are still not healed from the first round:) Fortunately, I won't need to sand the car as extensively this round as the last.

[makoshark]

I take back anything negative I said about the HOK epoxy. I wasn't used to spraying it, so I wasn't enjoying spraying it. It is a high build epoxy, which I'm not used to spraying. I was trying to spray it too fast. I was letting the gun work me rather than me work the gun. This stuff, though, lays out slick as glass and is a breeze to sand. It takes very little effort to sand smooth. This has to be some of the easiest sanding paint I've ever sanded.

I'd say HOK has made an excellent product. I'll keep using this and will slow down next time. Maybe I'll like better how it sprays then:)

Woes in the shop:

I was out in the garage yesterday afternoon installing my dash and I loud boom went off in my garage and then my air lines were leaking. I freaked out and started, at first, running out of the garage. Before I could get out, I looked over at where the air was rupturing out from and noticed my cheap plastic water trap I've had setup on my wall had exploded after 11 years of use. Man, talk about a heart stopper. Luckily, nothing was damaged or hurt and I already had a new and better water trap to install. I just hadn't ever gotten around to putting it on.

As I was half way through my first cup of spraying epoxy the other day, my swivel I had attached to the end of the air line shot the o-ring seal out of it and began rupturing air. I had to quickly remove it from the equation and fix the air hose so I could get back to spraying.

Needless to say, I've had a few air line issues in the shop lately. Hopefully that is all of the excitement I will experience.

[Sonar Chief]

Jeremy ... things are looking good, I'm glad you figured out the HOK epoxy dilemma. I know if things aren't going smoothly I get frustrated ..... you are doing a great job :excited:

Good luck with the Raptor liner ...." if it's worth doing it's worth doing right!" .... Dad.

[Roberts68]

If I have sanded every millimeter with 180 to the point of leaving my DNA on the car, re-epoxy primed all bare metal sandthroughs and then wiped with wax and grease remover till the towels are clean after wiping, what else could I do to properly prep for the Raptor liner?

:poke: That is nearly Perfect... now all you have left is to re-sand every square millimeter and wipe it down to remove your DNA and you should be good to go!:stirthepot:

I am kind of partial to that Frankenstein green epoxy, what sort of Blue are you going to use? I was thinking you were doing Silver for some reason.

I just recently plumbed my garage with 3/4" rigid pipe, with about 30' before my big 3/4" Norgren water trap/filter., followed by a 1/2" filter/regulator and a new Flexzilla reel.

[makoshark]

Jeremy ... things are looking good, I'm glad you figured out the HOK epoxy dilemma. I know if things aren't going smoothly I get frustrated ..... you are doing a great job :excited:

Good luck with the Raptor liner ...." if it's worth doing it's worth doing right!" .... Dad.

Thanks Chief! Your father is a wise man

[makoshark]

Jeremy ... things are looking good, I'm glad you figured out the HOK epoxy dilemma. I know if things aren't going smoothly I get frustrated ..... you are doing a great job :excited:

Good luck with the Raptor liner ...." if it's worth doing it's worth doing right!" .... Dad.

:poke: That is nearly Perfect... now all you have left is to re-sand every square millimeter and wipe it down to remove your DNA and you should be good to go!:stirthepot:

I am kind of partial to that Frankenstein green epoxy, what sort of Blue are you going to use? I was thinking you were doing Silver for some reason.

I just recently plumbed my garage with 3/4" rigid pipe, with about 30' before my big 3/4" Norgren water trap/filter., followed by a 1/2" filter/regulator and a new Flexzilla reel.

I'm gonna be slow sanding this car on round two. It took me around five days the first go around. Thankfully I don't have any sanding to doin the interior. I thought about painting it, but after ling it all with Dynamat, there really wouldn't be any reason to paint there anymore.

You know, at first I thought this is a terribly color to make the primer, but it's extremely bright and shows up all the imperfections quite well. It certainly has made the interior not feel like a cave anymore.

Post up some pics of your new setup on your build thread. I bet that took you a good weekend to get all plumbed up. When redid mine a couple years ago it took me a good day to redo all mine after I installed my new compressor

[makoshark]

I managed to get about halfway through the second round of sanding this afternoon. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to get through the other half till after I let my fingers heal up for a few days. I don't think I can even pick up a piece of sandpaper right now if I wanted to:buttkick:

Anyone know how much of this area in the picture needs seam sealing? All the seams here or just some of them?

[makoshark]

:poke: That is nearly Perfect... now all you have left is to re-sand every square millimeter and wipe it down to remove your DNA and you should be good to go!:stirthepot:

I am kind of partial to that Frankenstein green epoxy, what sort of Blue are you going to use? I was thinking you were doing Silver for some reason.

I just recently plumbed my garage with 3/4" rigid pipe, with about 30' before my big 3/4" Norgren water trap/filter., followed by a 1/2" filter/regulator and a new Flexzilla reel.

Forgot to mention what color I'm using. I'm going with HOK fine metallic Stratto blue

[Musclerodz]

I managed to get about halfway through the second round of sanding this afternoon. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to get through the other half till after I let my fingers heal up for a few days. I don't think I can even pick up a piece of sandpaper right now if I wanted to:buttkick:

Anyone know how much of this area in the picture needs seam sealing? All the seams here or just some of them?none of the seams in that pic require sealing. that is the area where the wiper cowl drains.

[makoshark]

Thanks Musclerodz. I suspected that were the case for the reason you mentioned.

[Sonar Chief]

I managed to get about halfway through the second round of sanding this afternoon. I'm not sure I'm going to be able to get through the other half till after I let my fingers heal up for a few days. I don't think I can even pick up a piece of sandpaper right now if I wanted to:buttkick:

Anyone know how much of this area in the picture needs seam sealing? All the seams here or just some of them?

Jeremy ... the leading edge of the cowl was originally seamed on my car. The front of the rocker panel had plumbers putty installed in between the triangle gaps (I welded mine shut with a blank panel) ...

I would seam all the gaps EXCEPT the bottom where the water is supposed to drain out!!!!!

My .02 cents.

[makoshark]

Thanks Michael

It's been so long since I had sandblasted my car, that I couldn't remember what was suppose to be sealed and what wasn't. I knew some of it was sealed though. I know how moisture can get trapped, so I wanted to make sure I didn't seal more than I needed.

[makoshark]

Musclerodz (Mike) has spooked me a bit, so I have come up with an alternative to my original plan. It will take me a little bit to execute, as more prep work will be involved, but the end result will be justified.

Winter has officially reared its ugly head here. This will slow down progress a bit as I'll have to try and maintain a warm temp in the garage to keep the metal on the car warm enough. Although, we have relatively mild winters here. It can still get cold!

[GregWeld]

From giving up and selling the car... To primer... Are you having fun yet? This supposed to be a hobby... Nice work. Keep a it!:D

[makoshark]

Thanks Greg!

Tough to give up on something I've put so much blood, sweat, tears and money into. It keeps me busy and occupied. I enjoy it, but what pushes me is the end result I envision in my mind. It frustrates the hell out of me sometimes, though:bigun2:

[Musclerodz]

Musclerodz (Mike) has spooked me a bit, so I have come up with an alternative to my original plan. It will take me a little bit to execute, as more prep work will be involved, but the end result will be justified.

Winter has officially reared its ugly head here. This will slow down progress a bit as I'll have to try and maintain a warm temp in the garage to keep the metal on the car warm enough. Although, we have relatively mild winters here. It can still get cold!

Hopefully I did not spook you too much, just making sure guys here hopefully learn from some of my misfortunes.

[makoshark]

Hopefully I did not spook you too much, just making sure guys here hopefully learn from some of my misfortunes.

I appreciate you sharing your experience and I certainly encourage to keep giving tips if you see something I may need advice on.

My new slight change of course is only going to cost more :G-Dub:

Progress on the money pit today consisted of floating body filler of the drivers rocker, couple low areas on top of the driver quarter, small divot along the roof just about the rain gutter. Took me about 5 hours to accomplish that. Geez I'm slow. Good thing I work by the hour:lol:

[Firebird-Geek]

I appreciate you sharing your experience and I certainly encourage to keep giving tips if you see something I may need advice on.

My new slight change of course is only going to cost more :G-Dub:

Progress on the money pit today consisted of floating body filler of the drivers rocker, couple low areas on top of the driver quarter, small divot along the roof just about the rain gutter. Took me about 5 hours to accomplish that. Geez I'm slow. Good thing I work by the hour:lol:

Maybe it is a secret... but what is your new course of action? :confused59:

My plan was to sand the cars bottom, apply 2 good coats of epoxy primer, then seam seal and then shoot on Raptor. All this within 2 days, (to stay in the window of the epoxy primer accepting a top coat without need of sanding.) Did you figure out a better plan?

I am following your build very closely to absorb as much info as I can! THANK YOU for sharing all of you tips and ideas! :popcorn2:

[Firebird-Geek]

My new slight change of course is only going to cost more :G-Dub:



Maybe it is a secret... but what is your new course of action? :confused59:

My plan was to sand the cars bottom, apply 2 good coats of epoxy primer, then seam seal and then shoot on Raptor. All this within 2 days, (to stay in the window of the epoxy primer accepting a top coat without need of sanding.) Did you figure out a better plan?

I am following your build very closely to absorb as much info as I can! THANK YOU for sharing all of you tips and ideas! :popcorn2:

[makoshark]

I have completely block sanded the entire car, AGAIN! I hand sanded most of the bottom. Block sanding the bottom would take weeks. I have been doing some filler work in some areas that needed attention. I am not finished with the filler work, but am very close to being done. I should wrap up all the filler work that needs to be done tomorrow. After that, I can finally put the final primer on the car. Of course, I'll have to sand it again:)

I have run out of 180 sandpaper, so am about to head out and pick up some more so as to not have any interruptions in my plans.

I'm posting up a few pictures. I've been focusing on body lines. I still need to swipe a skim coat of filler down the center body line on the quarters so I can sharpen up that line. She's ugly right now, but she's becoming laser straight.

[makoshark]

Maybe it is a secret... but what is your new course of action? :confused59:

My plan was to sand the cars bottom, apply 2 good coats of epoxy primer, then seam seal and then shoot on Raptor. All this within 2 days, (to stay in the window of the epoxy primer accepting a top coat without need of sanding.) Did you figure out a better plan?

I am following your build very closely to absorb as much info as I can! THANK YOU for sharing all of you tips and ideas! :popcorn2:

Thanks Jarrod and you're welcome:cheers:

Your plan is fine. I've just been on the fence the whole time about putting the Raptor liner on the bottom of my car. When Musclerodz posted that improper prep work could cause problems I started to go back to what I had originally had planned from the beginning. Also, my father kinda talked me into it as well. I'm going to shoot bc/cc on the bottom of my car. I'm still going to use the Raptor liner, though. I'll just shoot it into the interior of my car instead. I really want to see blue in there as well, so I'll use it in there.

I looked at your build and you are doing one heck of a job on your car. I really like how you are being a stickler to getting all the body lines perfectly aligned. Your car is going to be very well built once finished.

[Smitty68]

Lookin good Jeremy, I see the rotesserie helped out a bunch. Keep up the good progress!!:thumbsup:

[makoshark]

Thanks Smitty!

Not much progress as of late. Frigid weather and torn rotator cup has me moving at a snail's pace

[waynieZ]

It looks beautiful to me!

[Smitty68]

Thanks Smitty!

Not much progress as of late. Frigid weather and torn rotator cup has me moving at a snail's pace
If your ever over at the drag strip and (if you know him) see Mike Franks tell him Jon said hello. I used to pull my junk up there and race every once and a while. I am not sure if he still runs the track at Fulton still. He is a great fella for sure.

[makoshark]

If your ever over at the drag strip and (if you know him) see Mike Franks tell him Jon said hello. I used to pull my junk up there and race every once and a while. I am not sure if he still runs the track at Fulton still. He is a great fella for sure.

I've been to the Fulton track a few years ago, but haven't been in quite some time, though. It's about an hour drive from me. I usually raced at Byhalia, which is 15 minutes from me. Also, at a few times at Holly Springs and of course the big track at Memphis Motorsports Park.

I haven't done any racing or been around any tracks much since a sold my TransAm a few years ago.

What part of North Alabam are you from?

It looks beautiful to me!

Thanks:) Only a true car guy can appreciate what it looks like right now. It resembles a calico cat to me right now:lol:

I've bought the rest of the primer I needed to get the prep stage finished this week, so I plan to get back at working on the car. I decided to purchase some Evercoat Slick Sand, as I feel this car would benefit from it. I've been trying to work with some waves in the roof across the front at the windshield and just can't seem to get it completely where i want it with just body filler. Also, the NOS quarters I bought and installed had some minor damage to the driver's side from sitting around so many years. The quarters at where they make the bend into the tailpanel have some stamping imperfections in them there, so working on getting the smoothed out there.

Hopefully within a week or two I can have the car in its final primer. Block sanding on the body filler and really given my shoulder fits. I'll just have to deal with that and work through it as quick as I can.

I revel the day I can see this thing together and in paint!

[makoshark]

Good grief! I should proof read my posts before I make them. Hope everyone can understand my broken English:action-smiley-027:

[DOOM]

Trust me all that body prep will pay off in the end ! More you block the better the results. I'm tired just looking at it!

[Smitty68]

Good grief! I should proof read my posts before I make them. Hope everyone can understand my broken English:action-smiley-027:

LOL! I think we all have some part in jacking the language up. I know I definately do. Anyway I am pretty close to Huntsville and I may have posted wrong but I did a bunch of racing at Byhaila. Mike and his dad Carlton ran both of those tracks.

[makoshark]

Trust me all that body prep will pay off in the end ! More you block the better the results. I'm tired just looking at it!

Thanks, I'm trying to be as meticulous as possible making sure I don't miss anything. I didn't get this far and $10,000's of dollars to skimp at the end. Wanna come help:)?

LOL! I think we all have some part in jacking the language up. I know I definately do. Anyway I am pretty close to Huntsville and I may have posted wrong but I did a bunch of racing at Byhaila. Mike and his dad Carlton ran both of those tracks.

Did they drive an early 70's Camaro?

[Smitty68]

They may have I know the dad Carlton had an old narrowed up truck he raced. It was red and said his name on the door. Mike the son was in the control tower running the track. I want to say he did have a 70s camaro

[DOOM]

Man if you were closer I would be happy to!!

[makoshark]

They may have I know the dad Carlton had an old narrowed up truck he raced. It was red and said his name on the door. Mike the son was in the control tower running the track. I want to say he did have a 70s camaro

I remember exactly who they are now. I sold the son a mystery set of JE Pistons a few years ago.

I haven't been to the Byhalia track in a few years, but it shut down a couple years ago and someone came in and bought the track. They redid it and extended the dangerously short and pothole riddled shut down. I've heard it was a nice track to race on now.

Man if you were closer I would be happy to!!

Ah come on, Chicago isn't that far from Memphis. Come on, I'll take you to Krystal's/Whitecastle:unibrow:

[makoshark]

Tons of bodywork has transpired to get the car to this stage. I still have tons of bodywork left to do, but this is a major hurdle still.

[Roberts68]

:poke: In this stage I am thinking you should be calling it The Frankenmaro (Frankenstein monster mask green) or Sham-aro-rock?
In honor of the shamrock shake color.
:D

[makoshark]

Lime Time!

[makoshark]

Anyone here use the Devilbiss DeKup setup? I've been using it and I don't like the way the gun sprays compared to using the aluminum cup that came with the gun. Anyone else notice a difference the performance of their gun with the DeKup system?

[Sonar Chief]

Jeremy ..... WOW! The car is looking good .... do you still have finger prints left? Keep up the great work!

[MX145]

^^^^ what Chief said... Looks really good! Man that looks like a lot of back breaking work.

[makoshark]

Jeremy ..... WOW! The car is looking good .... do you still have finger prints left? Keep up the great work!

^^^^ what Chief said... Looks really good! Man that looks like a lot of back breaking work.

Thanks guys! I think I still have a little bit left of my fingerprints, so no robbing any banks anytime soon:)

The shell has turned out excellent. I still have a few minor areas that need attention to it, but I'm very pleased all my hard work is paying off on it. I still have tons left to do.

I'm going to reassemble the car, at this point, so I can redial-in the rear pinion angle and make sure the rearend is square to the body before I proceed with anymore bodywork. Once that is completed I'll proceed with all the panels that bolt onto the car. I haven't messed with the car in a few days. The weather has been cold here for the most part and the idea of crawling around on a cold concrete floor hasn't appealed to me:)

[waynieZ]

I'm with Chief and MX145, nice work!

[MX145]

With all the trials you've gone through its gotta feel pretty good to be at this point! The car looks Awesome! :thumbsup:
I'm still working through trying to figure out what parts fit and the frustrations of limited to non-existent published specs.

[makoshark]

I'm with Chief and MX145, nice work!

With all the trials you've gone through its gotta feel pretty good to be at this point! The car looks Awesome! :thumbsup:
I'm still working through trying to figure out what parts fit and the frustrations of limited to non-existent published specs.

Thanks guys!

Isn't hotrodding fun!?:mock:

Hang in there. Step away when you get too frustrated, but stick with your goal and she'll come together.

[waynieZ]

Hell Yeah!!!!!!!

[streetbird]

Anyone here use the Devilbiss DeKup setup? I've been using it and I don't like the way the gun sprays compared to using the aluminum cup that came with the gun. Anyone else notice a difference the performance of their gun with the DeKup system?

I dont know about dekup on db but the painters at the last bodyshop I worked converted all their Sata with this system and make no significant difference.
But Im not a gun expert, maybe raise the air flow of the gun, I think the cup make a resistance to the flow of the paint.
Dont know how to explain.

[GregWeld]

I have a Sata 4000 and use their disposable cups... never had an issue with anything. But then again - I'm not Darryl Hollenbeck either... so maybe if I had an issue - I wouldn't notice it. LOL


I think it's operator error.

[streetbird]

have you spray with the gun upside down first to let the air out of the cup?

[makoshark]

I dont know about dekup on db but the painters at the last bodyshop I worked converted all their Sata with this system and make no significant difference.
But Im not a gun expert, maybe raise the air flow of the gun, I think the cup make a resistance to the flow of the paint.
Dont know how to explain.

I understand what your getting at. I did play around with the settings, but never could find that sweet spot

I have a Sata 4000 and use their disposable cups... never had an issue with anything. But then again - I'm not Darryl Hollenbeck either... so maybe if I had an issue - I wouldn't notice it. LOL


I think it's operator error.

Operator error has certainly 'not' been ruled out of the equation. However, I can't admit I'm wrong now can I?:)

have you spray with the gun upside down first to let the air out of the cup?

Yes, I do turn the gun upside down and give the trigger a full pull till paint begins to spray out.

Quite frankly, I never really liked the way this gun has sprayed. It is a Devilbiss Finishline 3 I purchased new for the sole purpose of spraying primer with it. I've searched around at the higher end models and researched how well they work over models such as mine. I haven't been able to come up with anyone saying the higher end guns are the go-to gun over cheaper models when spraying primers.

I'll give this gun and cup setup one more go the next time I'm ready to spray some primer. I'll throw the aluminum cup back on as well to see if it works any better. I am open to suggestions for a new gun for spraying primer though:)

[streetbird]

I use this 1.8 tips
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a56/clown73/IMAG0339_zpsfb9886e4.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/clown73/media/IMAG0339_zpsfb9886e4.jpg.html)
and this primer nozzle
http://i9.photobucket.com/albums/a56/clown73/IMAG0340_zps935c0c00.jpg (http://s9.photobucket.com/user/clown73/media/IMAG0340_zps935c0c00.jpg.html)
on a 670s devilbiss and it spray perfectly.
Check what size you use.
Also, check the packing in your gun and check if the nozzle had a blocked hole

[makoshark]

Thanks for the pics!

The tech sheet for the particular primer I'm having trouble with, says to use a 1.5-1.8. I first started with a 1.5 and quickly changed over to a 1.8 tip. My nozzle is different than the one your showing. Do you have a part # for that particular nozzle?

[makoshark]

I haven't had any time to touch my car, but I did pick this up today.

I was on a sales trip last week for a company I am now part owners in and was in Moorseville, NC. I stopped by DSE and got a tour of their operations.

[Roberts68]

Sweet Machine. I have the same at work.
That one looks practically brand new, is it?

[GregWeld]

I have the Miller 210 and it's been a great machine... I like "simple" and the 210 is super simple... But it's now discontinued.

That 252 will be great for what you're doing.

[makoshark]

Thanks guys:)

It's a brand new machine. They never had time to unbox it and put it out in the showroom before I purchased it.

This machine, unfortunately, was not necessarily purchased for my resto. I bought into a small manufacturing company that is trying to get off the ground. The founder of the company has spent the past few years R&D'ing our product. and is now ready for the mainstream market. I went through his tools and basically threw it all out and told him it looks like we are basically starting from scratch.

We needed a machine to handle repetitive production and not miss a beat and this model fit the bill. They are super simple to setup and use.

[Roberts68]

Well congrats on the new venture, and best of luck to you both.

[makoshark]

Thanks for your blessing Robert. I feel it will be an extremely viable and lucrative venture.

[Flash68]

Thanks for your blessing Robert. I feel it will be an extremely viable and lucrative venture.

Sounds exciting! Nothing like a new venture to excite and scare ya at the same time. :D You can't say you don't feel alive I bet. :thumbsup:

[makoshark]

I feel like a zombie right now. I just spent 7 days on the road demo'ing our product to potential customers and trying to establish a distributor. We made several sales and brought a major distributor on board. I had to drive 3500 miles in 7 days to do all that, though.

I also came to the conclusion I am going to have to spend many many more miles on the road to increase sales. My half-ton truck isn't going to cut it, unfortunately. That is what scares me the most. I'm going to have to go out and purchase a truck capable of handling what I need. I just bought the one I have and am going to have to sell the darn thing and go into debt:(

My car just may very well be put up for sale. I'm entertaining that thought now. I need capital

[Sonar Chief]

Jeremy ... social media should keep those miles off the truck :poke: . Well, good luck with your venture and post pictures when you can, we all love pictures!

Michael

[makoshark]

Jeremy ... social media should keep those miles off the truck :poke: . Well, good luck with your venture and post pictures when you can, we all love pictures!

Michael

Thanks Michael!

All the different facets of the internet definitely help in generating awareness and sales in our product. However, we deal with both residential and commercial customers. Our commercial customers are usually highway maintenance crews, municipalities, waterworks facilities, etc and they all require an in-person demonstration. We received an email from the VA in Hawaii wanting a demo. I told them if they paid my way there and back, then I would gladly give them a demo:)

[makoshark]

I was in downtown Memphis, TN today to go over the cad files for some of the parts I'll be needing laser cut. While I was there I thought I'd snap a picture of the downtown area. We were hit by an extremely rare winter storm in March here today. This shot is the Mississippi river, which is quite high already. This picture was taken at noon today with a high of 20*. This never happens here!

[Vince@Meanstreets]

I feel like a zombie right now. I just spent 7 days on the road demo'ing our product to potential customers and trying to establish a distributor. We made several sales and brought a major distributor on board. I had to drive 3500 miles in 7 days to do all that, though.

I also came to the conclusion I am going to have to spend many many more miles on the road to increase sales. My half-ton truck isn't going to cut it, unfortunately. That is what scares me the most. I'm going to have to go out and purchase a truck capable of handling what I need. I just bought the one I have and am going to have to sell the darn thing and go into debt:(

My car just may very well be put up for sale. I'm entertaining that thought now. I need capital

Have you tried angel investors? Some financies can get you a low interest grant. There are tons of programs out there for new start ups. Im not sure how they do it with partnerships, but if you have decent credit you should be good for at least 75K. Just something to think about.

The way I see it you are losing 50% but I understand you are burnt out.
You have better odds with a business loan and finishing the car later. I say take a break, apply and let it ride. The car should be a last resort.

How far is the car from being a roller?

[makoshark]

Have you tried angel investors? Some financies can get you a low interest grant. There are tons of programs out there for new start ups. Im not sure how they do it with partnerships, but if you have decent credit you should be good for at least 75K. Just something to think about.

The way I see it you are losing 50% but I understand you are burnt out.
You have better odds with a business loan and finishing the car later. I say take a break, apply and let it ride. The car should be a last resort.

How far is the car from being a roller?

I have searched around a little and spoke with a few companies about some financing. Either their interest rate was at loan shark rates or they were wanting six months of financial statements. I'm not willing to accept a high interest rate loan and the company simply isn't old enough to have six months worth of financials yet, so that ruled those out.

The original company was created by a long time friend of mine, who researched and developed the product for the past four years, which we now sell. He developed the perfect product to fill a much needed void in our target market. Interest in our product has been received well. We shipped our first unit out today from our new, 50 year old building. Our product is typically targeted towards water works facilities, roadway maintenance crews, cities, etc. We are currently building a unit for LSU that they will be flying in this coming weekend to pickup.

The company is a little past the start-up phase. We are selling our products on a regular basis, however not enough yet to really turn a profit. We could get buy with the bare essentials that we are working with, but to increase production we would need more capital. Part of our sales comes from performing demonstrations. These demos are required by many of our customers before they are allowed to purchase. I do not have the truck that could handle pulling our products all over the country. I'll need to purchase a diesel truck, but just can't quite afford to do that just yet either. That, in of itself hurts, my business.

The main reason I need capital is to help handle the Purchase Order's that my customers are required to use. My product is expensive and it is expensive for me to build. It's difficult to produce my product without capital upfront. I haven't spoken with my bank just yet about helping with the costs to build on the PO's. I'm hoping they would be more lenient in their rules to cover them. It's virtually risk free.

My friend that started this company do an excellent job in developing the product, but has no clue how to run a business. He essentially handed over the company to me and became an employee. We filed the dissolution papers with the state to dissolve the old company and created a new one with me as the sole owner. I have not looked into angel investors. I've been trying not to have to sell off pieces of the company to get it fully operational. This week I plan to try and explore as many avenues I feel is available still to me to help raise capital. One of those is the sale of my car. Hate to do it, but if its the only place I can find it, then that is where I'll have to get it. It hurts to even think about taking half of what I have in it. Trust me!

I could have the car assembled in a day, by myself and drive it out of the garage in two days. Of course, it still wouldn't be considered a roadworthy car.

Thanks for the tips!

I was born and raised in a family owned service business and handling a manufacturing business is quite a bit different.

[Vince@Meanstreets]

I have searched around a little and spoke with a few companies about some financing. Either their interest rate was at loan shark rates or they were wanting six months of financial statements. I'm not willing to accept a high interest rate loan and the company simply isn't old enough to have six months worth of financials yet, so that ruled those out.

The original company was created by a long time friend of mine, who researched and developed the product for the past four years, which we now sell. He developed the perfect product to fill a much needed void in our target market. Interest in our product has been received well. We shipped our first unit out today from our new, 50 year old building. Our product is typically targeted towards water works facilities, roadway maintenance crews, cities, etc. We are currently building a unit for LSU that they will be flying in this coming weekend to pickup.

The company is a little past the start-up phase. We are selling our products on a regular basis, however not enough yet to really turn a profit. We could get buy with the bare essentials that we are working with, but to increase production we would need more capital. Part of our sales comes from performing demonstrations. These demos are required by many of our customers before they are allowed to purchase. I do not have the truck that could handle pulling our products all over the country. I'll need to purchase a diesel truck, but just can't quite afford to do that just yet either. That, in of itself hurts, my business.

The main reason I need capital is to help handle the Purchase Order's that my customers are required to use. My product is expensive and it is expensive for me to build. It's difficult to produce my product without capital upfront. I haven't spoken with my bank just yet about helping with the costs to build on the PO's. I'm hoping they would be more lenient in their rules to cover them. It's virtually risk free.

My friend that started this company do an excellent job in developing the product, but has no clue how to run a business. He essentially handed over the company to me and became an employee. We filed the dissolution papers with the state to dissolve the old company and created a new one with me as the sole owner. I have not looked into angel investors. I've been trying not to have to sell off pieces of the company to get it fully operational. This week I plan to try and explore as many avenues I feel is available still to me to help raise capital. One of those is the sale of my car. Hate to do it, but if its the only place I can find it, then that is where I'll have to get it. It hurts to even think about taking half of what I have in it. Trust me!

I could have the car assembled in a day, by myself and drive it out of the garage in two days. Of course, it still wouldn't be considered a roadworthy car.

Thanks for the tips!

I was born and raised in a family owned service business and handling a manufacturing business is quite a bit different.

Yeah I hear you, i am in the same boat. I passed on loans and am running it on my own cash. Hang in there. It all works out.

I may have a client that may want the car but I'd have to transport. That's why I asked how far from being a roller. I'll do the math and make a proposal.

[makoshark]

I certainly appreciate it Vince. I can make the car a roller, no problem. I was at that stage that I needed to make it a roller again to do a few things before I jumped back into the body getting it ready for paint. However, all this happened and the car got pushed to the side.

[69Z28X11]

I have spent three hours catching up on your build! DON"T SELL!! I understand what you are going through and have been living pay check to pay check the past two years. Watching your build has kept me going and I've had to watch my car take a back seat ride for a long time. Needless to say, I have a place you can store it if you need it. Money will come and go. It's gone now but it will return in the next year or so. If you sell it, you will for sure regret it. I've sold lots of things over the past two years to make ends meet. The only thing I neglect to sell is my car. I have taken on a second job to help fund my build as well. I will be in Memphis next month for a bachelor party. May try and stop by to look at your car if thats possible. :happy23: Ill buy the first round if your up for it. Best of Luck to you!

[Smitty68]

Car is coming along great man! Keep on grinding away at it.

[kofs007]

Amazing car... Great work! I sent an email to you, Im interested in your amazing Camaro..... Thanks.

[Roberts68]

Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her.
Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her.
Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her.
Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her.
Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her. Do Not Sell her.
... or else:buttkick:

I had to post this in Honor of my 25 years this June, owning my Camaro.
She will wait for you.
Okay? Now...:topic:

[69Z28X11]

I'm with Robert on this one! I have a safe spot out of sight for ya. Even have a car cover with your name on it till you can come back and start on her again. I would be more than happy to have her in the shop! I'm sure Lost wouldn't mind an old friend staying over for a little bit. She would be modivation for my build. As they say, out of sight out of mind! Have a feather light trailer if you need it to put her in storage somewhere. I couldn't let you let her go without a hell of a fight to keep her. Best of luck on the new job. Godspeed the business picks up on the new job and sales!