tips and tricks H/F blasting cabinet

[brans72]

So it's raining here and trying to fix a few things in garage. I got my leaking H/F blating cabinet torn apart pretty much and looking to seal it up and do some tricks like lighting,upgrading gun (wanna do foot pedal setup) etc. So what have you guy's done to make your cabinet work better for you? Post up your tips/tricks for other members!!!!!!

[Ketzer]

This is a good topic. I just picked up a CraigsList deal on a 36" and am doing same.
Needed door seals and the plexi lid replaced. Looks like he already changed the gun out to a Campbell Haus unit and threw in the small shop vac he was using with it. I put a sheetrock bag in the shopvac to cut down on the dust.

What's a good all purpose media?


Jeff-

[brans72]

I use black diamond sold at northern tool. They also sell others there to kinda try by area deal I think. So fr black diamond has been decent stuff and cuts through rust decent.

[Fluid Power]

Thru mine in the trash and bought a TP tools cabinet.

Darren

[brans72]

That is easy if you can afford it, but with a baby on the way I can not do that. The unit is not bad needs sealing up,better light,and gun to be decent in my book. If I win lottery maybe I can get something nice one day.

[Fluid Power]

The TP one that is the same size as the HF is $449. The HF is 299 or 219 on sale. By the time you spend upgrading and adding lights to the HF one you are pretty darn close. ( the TP one comes with a light) Parts are available from TP. My HF one, no spare parts where available, which meant I was cutting my own plexiglass for the window. I realize it is not an option for everyone, you wanted feedback on HF stuff and I gave you some!

FWIW, I bought my TP cabinet on Craigslist and then sold the HF on Craigslist making it an even better deal.

Darren

[DRJDVM's '69]

I've siliconed the hell out of my HF one and it still leaks....the light is terrible...its a POS....but does the job for my small parts...

I got mine for less than $200....but you get what you pay for.

[Ketzer]

Mine is a SandyJet. Looks like they are around $350 new. I paid $100 and got a shop vac for free.


Jeff-

[GregWeld]

I won't bother telling you about my blaster.... :D

But save the plexiglass by using the disposable plastic covers sold by TP Tools...

Also the question was asked what blast to use... and there's no right answer for that because it depends on what you're blasting and what surface you want to be left with. I have everything from Iron oxide - to walnut shells... and change it out depending on what's being worked on.

You don't want to blast some old Corvette aluminum valve covers with iron oxide... that would ruin them... so just saying it all depends.

Also if your vacuum is blowing dust in the air -- you have to be careful to not be inhaling that stuff! Use a mask at least. You can get yourself a bad case of silicosis.

[makoshark]

The TP one that is the same size as the HF is $449. The HF is 299 or 219 on sale. By the time you spend upgrading and adding lights to the HF one you are pretty darn close. ( the TP one comes with a light) Parts are available from TP. My HF one, no spare parts where available, which meant I was cutting my own plexiglass for the window. I realize it is not an option for everyone, you wanted feedback on HF stuff and I gave you some!

FWIW, I bought my TP cabinet on Craigslist and then sold the HF on Craigslist making it an even better deal.

Darren

You stated in a previous thread that you threw your HF cabinet in the trash and here your selling it?

[Fluid Power]

You stated in a previous thread that you threw your HF cabinet in the trash and here your selling it?

CRAP! I bought a blaster and parts washer the same day. The PW was the one that got pitched. Had it for about 9 months with solvent in it before it leaked all over the shop floor. Granted, it was a water based solvent, but none the less, it made a mess. The cabinet I did sell on craigslist.
Darren

[rwhite692]

You can improve on the HF blaster (and many others) by converting it to a bottom-feed "venturi" arrangement as opposed to the siphon type pickup tube:

http://inlinethumb23.webshots.com/50134/2627421740011691741S600x600Q85.jpg

If you have enough compressor, converting to one of these type guns, and running 1/2" hoses throughout, will get you some really awesome performance, as well:

http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/50783/2202590000011691741S600x600Q85.jpg

Mike at Tacoma Company is a great guy, extremely knowledgeable and his stuff is priced very reasonably. He sells a kit specifically for upgrading the HF cabinets, because so many folks are in the same situation.

In my case, I was building my own blast cabinet and knew that I wanted to use this type of venturi arrangement. The last one I built when I lived in NY, circa 1988, used a siphon tube.

I also got my gloves, glove flanges, and gun from Mike.

I am using an abrasive blend of 50/50 crushed glass and garnet and find it works very well for typical paint prep/light rust removal. Mike mentioned that blasting pressures should be kept to between 50-60 PSI, higher than that just accelerates the breakdown of the media without much change in productivity.

Here is the cabinet I made, it is 30x30x48. The stand is 2" aluminum welded square tubing. Four 100W equivalent CFLs are in a box over the top located over an additional window.

Rather than use a foot pedal air valve, I used a 110V 1/2" NPT solenoid valve (5/8" internal ports) and a foot switch pedal.

Use clear film as Greg mentioned, to protect your viewing pane. I bought my film from Grainger, it is made for blast cabinets, is crystal clear, and is WAY cheaper than the stuff TIP sells (might be the same stuff).

http://inlinethumb46.webshots.com/19821/2150549770011691741S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb49.webshots.com/48496/2884665830011691741S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/19723/2300307390011691741S600x600Q85.jpg


http://inlinethumb12.webshots.com/50699/2221896160011691741S600x600Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb21.webshots.com/49428/2270480990011691741S600x600Q85.jpg

[GregWeld]

Great thread -- I love stuff like this -- this is info guys can use!

I have an account at Grainger -- never knew or thought of them for the clear protective "whateverthehellitisstuff".... that I've been buying from TP tools.

Also the cutting down on the PSI... will try that ASAP.

[rwhite692]

Great thread -- I love stuff like this -- this is info guys can use!

I have an account at Grainger -- never knew or thought of them for the clear protective "whateverthehellitisstuff".... that I've been buying from TP tools.

Also the cutting down on the PSI... will try that ASAP.

Greg the Grainger item number is 3JT12
It is qty 20 precut sheets which are 12x24
It is made / sourced from blast cabinet manufacturer Econoline
$20.36 for 20 sheets, can't beat it....

[GregWeld]

:hail: :hail: :hail: :thumbsup: :thumbsup: :woot:

[rwhite692]

I received a few PMs asking about the use of the solenoid valve to control the air to the gun.

All you need to find is a 110V coil, normally closed, solenoid valve with 1/2" NPT ports. These can be found on Ebay easily, brand new, in the 20-40 dollar range, and that is by far the cheapest way that you are likely to find one. Brand new retail, these things can cost more than three times that amount. Avoid the temptation to buy a used solenoid valve, most that you are likely to find have been used in industrial settings and have led a hard life. Any savings will be eradicated, if you wind up having to buy a rebuild kit for the valve.

I wanted to put a regulator right up front on the blast cabinet so that I can adjust the blast pressure easily to accommodate the different types of blast media I might try, down the road. Many types of organic blast media (walnut shells, etc) are said to work better at lower pressures. On my old cabinet, the regulator was on the wall behind the unit, and, not knowing any better, I always had it pretty much maxed out, and never, ever adjusted it.

On this project I found an old piece of 1/4" Aluminum scrap and just bored a hole in it and put a bend in it, to mount the regulator to the cart which holds the blast cabinet.

These Parker regulators I really like, because they are easy to "panel" mount this way and they are easy to adjust and lock the setting by pushing down the knob. These regulators are industrial quality and also are easy to find on Ebay for about the same money (and sometimes, less) than one would pay for a chinese no-name regulator.


http://inlinethumb37.webshots.com/47140/2390329630011691741S600x600Q85.jpg


http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/15146/2616350940011691741S600x600Q85.jpg

The easiest way to get a foot pedal switch up and running, is to get a Clipper / Linemaster foot switch with the "no fuss" plug already on it. (yup - Ebay) You plug the switch's plug into an outlet, and then whatever item you want to control with the foot switch, into the back of the plug (the picture below should help make sense of that):


http://inlinethumb32.webshots.com/48991/2227360300011691741S600x600Q85.jpg


Just wire up a 110V cord to the solenoid, with a plug on the end, and plug that in to the footswitch plug, and go!

Of course, you can also just buy a "bare" linemaster footswitch and wire it all up. I just liked this one, because it was one less thing to have to do...

In the pic below, the lower black hose is air coming in from the supply line. The upper black hose is after the solenoid valve, going up to the gun inside the cabinet.

http://inlinethumb08.webshots.com/22215/2573294030011691741S600x600Q85.jpg


http://inlinethumb55.webshots.com/49718/2791976100011691741S600x600Q85.jpg

Hope this helps,

Rob

[S Griffin]

nice work there. I see a new project in my future. :yes:

[GregWeld]

Rob --

The only thing I see that I "don't like" about this set up is media changing...

My TP Tools cabinet has a nice spring loaded trap door that drops the media out of the hopper... and you've used this "area" to attach your pick up to. So how do you change out the media???

[rwhite692]

Rob --

The only thing I see that I "don't like" about this set up is media changing...

My TP Tools cabinet has a nice spring loaded trap door that drops the media out of the hopper... and you've used this "area" to attach your pick up to. So how do you change out the media???

GW if you look at the pic, on the very bottom of the Venturi assembly you can see a white PVC plug threaded in (1" NPT) you just unscrew that plug and all the media drops straight down/out.

I leave the cap off with a bucket under there and shoot the inside of the cabinet with a few blasts of air to get the last bits of media all out.

My previous cabinet also used a spring loaded trap door, which works fine as well.

[GregWeld]

Beautiful -- I knew you had it worked out - I just couldn't tell and it is one thing that a "newb" to blast cabinets needs to know.

[waynieZ]

Dammm another really smart guy. I love this place! :thumbsup:

[Fluid Power]

Why did you use a solenoid valve vs. a pneumatic foot valve?

Darren

[rwhite692]

Hi Darren,

On the last cabinet I built, I used the kit from TIP which came with a foot-pedal air valve. I was not all that happy with it. That valve only had a 3/8" internal port, which was fine since on that cabinet, all my hoses were 3/8. We also eventually wore that pedal out and it was not rebuildable...

Having some experience using (rebuildable) solenoid valves in industrial applications, and since I am now running 1/2" hose throughout, I wanted to use a solenoid valve this time around. Solenoid valves like this when used for switching clean dry air, will typically last for many millions of cycles in industrial applications, so I doubt I will ever wear this one out.

In addition, the use of the solenoid valve means a lot less clutter down on the floor, since the air hoses don't need to go all the way down to a pedal sitting on the floor, and then back up to the cabinet/gun.

One potential drawback of the solenoid valve vs. a foot pedal air valve, is that it is not possible to finely control or "throttle" the air pressure, it is either ON, or OFF. But as I recall, I was never really able to get much measure of fine control using my old foot pedal air valve, nor did I really ever find myself needing or wanting to do that, anyway.

I can imagine that if someone was using a cabinet to blast delicate things (like antique electric motor armatures, for example) and things like that, using walnut shells or some other fine media, maybe that kind of capability would be desired, although, you can really get the same effect by reducing blasting pressure to begin with, using the regulator, and or varying the gun position vs. the part being blasted, to get the desired effect.

[Fluid Power]

Hi Darren,

On the last cabinet I built, I used the kit from TIP which came with a foot-pedal air valve. I was not all that happy with it. That valve only had a 3/8" internal port, which was fine since on that cabinet, all my hoses were 3/8. We also eventually wore that pedal out and it was not rebuildable...

Having some experience using (rebuildable) solenoid valves in industrial applications, and since I am now running 1/2" hose throughout, I wanted to use a solenoid valve this time around. Solenoid valves like this when used for switching clean dry air, will typically last for many millions of cycles in industrial applications, so I doubt I will ever wear this one out.

In addition, the use of the solenoid valve means a lot less clutter down on the floor, since the air hoses don't need to go all the way down to a pedal sitting on the floor, and then back up to the cabinet/gun.

One potential drawback of the solenoid valve vs. a foot pedal air valve, is that it is not possible to finely control or "throttle" the air pressure, it is either ON, or OFF. But as I recall, I was never really able to get much measure of fine control using my old foot pedal air valve, nor did I really ever find myself needing or wanting to do that, anyway.

I can imagine that if someone was using a cabinet to blast delicate things (like antique electric motor armatures, for example) and things like that, using walnut shells or some other fine media, maybe that kind of capability would be desired, although, you can really get the same effect by reducing blasting pressure to begin with, using the regulator, and or varying the gun position vs. the part being blasted, to get the desired effect.

Thanks for your feedback. I own an industrial distribution business, so I know a thing or three about solenoid valves! :thumbsup: But you answered my question perfectly. The clutter removal is great idea. The air hoses tend to make a mess out things.

Darren

[Kory 88Iroc Lt1]

Great info. Thanks for sharing I will be using this in the future.
Kory

[waynieZ]

Hi guy's if any one is thinking of doing Rob's upgrade and is looking for a foot pedal, I just bought one for $40 shipped I'll list the E Bay page. He's asking $40 plus $10 shipping but I offered him $40 shipped and he took it.
Here's the page.
http://www.ebay.com/itm/160857698197?ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT&_trksid=p3984.m1438.l2649
And the item number incase the link doesn't work. 160857698197
I hope it helps some body.

[brans72]

I went with the Tacoma Company set up few months ago and will say Mike can back his product up!!!!!!! He is first willing to spend time talking to you about your setup and what your wanting to do/need to blast. Parts ship fast and even sent me some new stuff to try out! His product was pretty straight forward and the few questions I did have to ask he always answered his phone and was more willing to help me out. I was so happy once I got it ready to blast at the difference it made compared to H/F unit. I did use my H/F cabinet just ditch all but case. Trust me guy's you will not go wrong with Mikes setup and I plan to buy his dust collector and more media from him cause I got a great product,super support and someone that cares about what there selling and the customer. I can not say enough good things about Tacoma Company and wanna say if you ever read this Mike sorry took so long to give feed back and your a top notch guy!!!!!!!!!!! Brandon

[Hotrod1]

Have a harbor freight. Added new lights and it seals OK. I took the stock gun and drilled it out. Worked better - i was happy. I just needed to spend money so I bought the TP Tools retrofit gun kit for less than $100. When it got here, I looked at it and wondered if I made a mistake because it did not look that much different than my HF gun (hole sizes and all). Hooked it up and WOW, what a difference. It is so much faster than I ever expected. I usually would keep the HF gun for parts and some other reason - just in case. Not this time. It went straight into the trash where it belonged. Have a HF blaster - get this gun!.

[marathonboats]

I agree that Great info. Thanks for sharing I will be using this in the future.
Kory

[Vega$69]

I have been using the small H/F cabinet for years and it's done the job perfectly without complaint.

I installed a cheap light and use the plastic sheets that came with it. I use it primarily for rust removal on small parts and bolts, nuts etc. I use iron oxide media.

[David Pozzi]

I'm using a cheap siphon sand blast gun in mine. I have 170 psi shop air available but I found the media flow is reduced at that pressure. The pressure backs up in the gun. I use a regulator to around 90 psi and get a better media flow.
Drilling out the air jet can cause so much air to flow, you don't get as much suction on the media hose. I put a vacuum gauge on mine to set pressure.

[minendrews68]

Where are you guys getting the replacement clear covers that go over the window. Harbor Freight doesn't carry them. As a Matter of fact Harbor Freight doesn't carry any kind of replacement parts. I bought a soldering gun and the tip burned into. Went back to HF and was told that the soldering gun was a expendable item so they did not carry the tips as a replacement. go figure!

[minendrews68]

Where are you guys getting the replacement clear covers that go over the window. Harbor Freight doesn't carry them. As a Matter of fact Harbor Freight doesn't carry any kind of replacement parts. I bought a soldering gun and the tip burned into. Went back to HF and was told that the soldering gun was a expendable item so they did not carry the tips as a replacement. go figure!

ok, since I last wrote this I went with the Tacoma sandblast cabinet redo. My HF cabinet was around 15 years old but still looked brand new. I never used it because it was a piece of junk. I was reluctant to buy the Tacoma parts but after reading up on it I bought it. Guys, like daylight and dark. I use my HF cabinet all the time now. If you guys want any information I can help you out. Let me know.

[waynieZ]

How much does the Tacoma kit run? I heard it makes a world of difference.

[camcojb]

ok, since I last wrote this I went with the Tacoma sandblast cabinet redo. My HF cabinet was around 15 years old but still looked brand new. I never used it because it was a piece of junk. I was reluctant to buy the Tacoma parts but after reading up on it I bought it. Guys, like daylight and dark. I use my HF cabinet all the time now. If you guys want any information I can help you out. Let me know.

Mine seems to work okay, but I am interested in this kit. Where did you get it? Their Ebay store doesn't list them.

[minendrews68]

Wow, I'm up to date. Sorry guys for not getting back with this, but here goes.
Mike Tacoma and his wife own Tacoma Blasting Company. They are based out of Idaho, I think. Somewhere in that vicinity. I think I spent close to $500 for the kit I got, but man, is it worth it. I use mine for just about everything now.
It's funny I used to really crank up the pressure to get this cabinet to work but it never functioned properly. Now I use about 5 cups of media and run 45 lbs of pressure at the cabinet. Sounds crazy but it works.


Address: 124 Star Ridge Rd. Hope, ID 83836

Phone: 208-264-5543 / Mobile: 509-684-6756
Email: [email protected]
Business Hours: Monday - Friday 8am-5pm (Pacific)
Closed Saturday and Sunday

They were so far behind when I ordered mine it took about 2 months to get the kit. Be patient. Very nice people too. You'll have a lot better chance of getting a hold of Mike on his mobile number (above). Call him around 8:00 am (ID. time) is the best time to get him.

Do a search on youtube of Tacoma Blasting Cabinet tips. A lot of good information there also.
Again, I'm sorry for taking so long to get back on this. Let us know what you decide to do....

Carl

[camcojb]

I have one of the HF cabinets. The cabinet is fine, sealed it up extra and no leaks. But I suspect the gun is crap. I've tried 5 different medias and multiple pressures, and none work well at all, clogs the hose constantly. I quit using it for now, going to research different blasting guns. Don't have $500 to fix it, hoping I can come up with a cheaper solution. Don't need any more features, just need it to suck up media.

[camcojb]

So for the heck of it I decided to try a cheap gun from Amazon (https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07X9XXMPN/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_asin_title_o01_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1). Used the same pick up hose and tube that came with the HF cabinet. Wow, what a difference, works great! No clogging, strips metal immediately. Now I can actually use my blast cabinet. Just an FYI for those in the same boat.

[minendrews68]

Jody, Does your cabinet have a foot pedal? just one of the things I really wanted on mine. Mike sells his media gun separately, although I don't remember the price. I did up grade my lighting myself and that made quite a difference. On Mikes upgrade he suggested to take the wire screen that the parts rest on while blasting and cut it down some so you can get bigger things into the cabinet. There were other things like taking the view window out, using nutserts to put it back together. This eliminates the need to half way crawl into the cabinet when you need to change out the glass viewing window. That worked really well too.
If you have any questions about either of these let me know and I'll either send pics or try to talk you through it.

[camcojb]

Jody, Does your cabinet have a foot pedal? just one of the things I really wanted on mine. Mike sells his media gun separately, although I don't remember the price. I did up grade my lighting myself and that made quite a difference. On Mikes upgrade he suggested to take the wire screen that the parts rest on while blasting and cut it down some so you can get bigger things into the cabinet. There were other things like taking the view window out, using nutserts to put it back together. This eliminates the need to half way crawl into the cabinet when you need to change out the glass viewing window. That worked really well too.
If you have any questions about either of these let me know and I'll either send pics or try to talk you through it.
I do not have a foot pedal, but it's on the list, as well as a better light. What light did you use? The one that comes with it is better than nothing, but only barely. :lol:

I did the nutserts for the view window right off the bat... :thumbsup:

[minendrews68]

I do not have a foot pedal, but it's on the list, as well as a better light. What light did you use? The one that comes with it is better than nothing, but only barely. :lol:

I did the nutserts for the view window right off the bat... :thumbsup:

On mine, I bought the metal light fixtures that is used to put flood lights on a house with. ( or other uses ) bought from home depot and drilled holes in each corner of the top of the box. Does your cabinet have a light box that bolts on top of the cabinet? Mine did and you could take the box to replace the fluorescent bulbs. Mine is quite old, I think the newer ones did not have this box. After I removed the box there is a glass window for the light to go through. I drilled a hole in each end and mounted the lights from the inside of the cabinet and put a nut on the ends to hold them. Better yet, since I've made this about as clear as mud I will take pictures and post them here.
I used the same light switch but added another female plug to plug the vacuum cleaner into. That way when the lights come on so does the vacuum. Another think that's in the kit is a cover that covers the inlet of the air, which is no longer coming in from the rear but the right side.
Ok, I'll take pictures....
The light bulb holders are similar to these, only you can buy them individually cheaper. https://www.homedepot.com/b/Lighting-Outdoor-Lighting-Security-Lights-Flood-Lights/N-5yc1vZcdqg/Ntk-EnrichedProductInfo/Ntt-outside+light+fixture?Ntx=mode+matchpartialmax&NCNI-5&visNavSearch=outside%20light%20fixture Sorry, the $16 ones. They are threaded where they go into that flange, but you will drill holes and mount to the cabinet.

I think these were the bulbs: https://www.homedepot.com/s/led%2520outdoor%2520floodlight%2520bulb?NCNI-5
Don't go buy any of these because I want to check out and get absolute pics and part numbers. Be sure to use the outdoor flood lamps because they are made of glass (not plastic) and will hold up a lot longer than the plastic ones.
Feit Electric75-Watt Equivalent PAR30 Dimmable Security or Outdoor Track Lighting ENERGY STAR 90+ CRI Spot LED Light Bulb, Daylight
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