Anyone used AAW Trunk kit?

[John510]

Trying to decide if I want to buy the trunk mount kit for ease of replacing fuses. Is it way harder to install since I need to run a ton of wires from the trunk?

Does anyone have one and was it worth the hassle?

[GregWeld]

Trying to decide if I want to buy the trunk mount kit for ease of replacing fuses. Is it way harder to install since I need to run a ton of wires from the trunk?

Does anyone have one and was it worth the hassle?


It's not any hassle at all! I just did this in my brother in laws '69 Camaro... the "trunk kit" is just longer heavier gauge wires of the same color and labels that you "replace" in the normal harness... takes all of about 5 minutes!

I built a simple "rack" to mount the fuse panel and amp on... and ran the wiring up the tunnel.


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Rudys%20Camaro/IMG_1718-1.jpg



http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Rudys%20Camaro/IMG_1714-1.jpg

[John510]

Wow Greg that looks great.

[waynieZ]

Nice looking set up. :thumbsup:

[89 RS]

That's some nice work Greg.

[garyb]

[QUOTE=GregWeld;393263]It's not any hassle at all! I just did this in my brother in laws '69 Camaro... the "trunk kit" is just longer heavier gauge wires of the same color and labels that you "replace" in the normal harness... takes all of about 5 minutes!

I built a simple "rack" to mount the fuse panel and amp on... and ran the wiring up the tunnel.


http://i919.photobucket.com/albums/ad33/gregweld/Rudys%20Camaro/IMG_1718-1.jpg

I know, I know very old thread. But with a little reverse engineering I was able to find Greg's photos on Photobucket. My questions are

(1) When you say you, "...ran the wiring up the tunnel.", inside the the car?
(2) Did you run the alternator charging wire inside or outside (under) as well?

[GregWeld]

Gary --- nice work on the reverse engineering!! I've done it before myself! LOL


I run the charge wire to the starter hot (where the battery cable goes)..... it's short and is a direct connection to the battery. Actually don't use the battery stud -- I alway have a hot block down right by the starter to take hots for various relays etc. But I DO NOT run a charge wire to the battery in the trunk straight from the alternator. I'm using the big cable to be that connection if you understand what I'm saying.


All the other wiring that needs to route from the trunk mounted fuse panel runs in the tunnel INSIDE the car.... I run the wires down both sides of the rear footwell just where the footwell turns up to form the tunnel -- and I make a channel for these wires making them flat and not on top one another -- use some sound deadening material which is fairly thick - you need it anyway - and make space for the wiring..... it also keeps people from stepping on it if you run it where I do. And it's hidden - there's no lump in the carpet etc if you build your channel right. Then you come up in the area that would be between the seat and the console..... split the wires so they're flat thru the console area - and out the front of the console up to the dash area.

I also run window wiring in the normal channel -- under the doorsill etc -- in to the kick panel area and back to inside the door using a 5/8" (never the 1/2" crap) braided door stuff. The key to that is to get the door loom RIGHT!! People that don't know how to mark two sides of a hole (in different panels) get those holes "off" and that causes all manor of problems! I use a transfer punch -- if you don't know what that is -- look it up.

The key to wiring these days is to use RELAYS -- good ones! I like the SPAL "Fan" kits -- they're weather proof and seem to not fail like the cheap chinko stuff.... they cost more - but so what. So I prefer to do a couple well positioned power take offs -- and run to relays. Saves on burning up switches --- which were made for lighter loads -- and makes for a better electrical system.

Why people spend 20 grand for a motor and 25 grand for paint -- and then do crappy wiring is beyond me.... but it's because it comes as an "afterthought" and they just simply don't understand electricity and wiring.

[Bad Bowtie]

Greg,
Any chances of getting the pics back in this thread. I know photobucket has been causing a stir with their new policy and knocked out a great deal of links? I'm really considering doing this on my wifes 68 Camaro ( getting to old to crawl under dashes lol ) BTW I have never reverse engineered photobucket but I know China is experts on the "reverse engineering" things lol

BB

[garyb]

I downloaded them for reference as I get closer to that stage. If Greg doesn't have them readily available, I can post them (albeit without Greg's commentary on the details) with his permission.

[garyb]

Gary --- nice work on the reverse engineering!! I've done it before myself! LOL





I run the charge wire to the starter hot (where the battery cable goes)..... it's short and is a direct connection to the battery. Actually don't use the battery stud -- I alway have a hot block down right by the starter to take hots for various relays etc. But I DO NOT run a charge wire to the battery in the trunk straight from the alternator. I'm using the big cable to be that connection if you understand what I'm saying.





All the other wiring that needs to route from the trunk mounted fuse panel runs in the tunnel INSIDE the car.... I run the wires down both sides of the rear footwell just where the footwell turns up to form the tunnel -- and I make a channel for these wires making them flat and not on top one another -- use some sound deadening material which is fairly thick - you need it anyway - and make space for the wiring..... it also keeps people from stepping on it if you run it where I do. And it's hidden - there's no lump in the carpet etc if you build your channel right. Then you come up in the area that would be between the seat and the console..... split the wires so they're flat thru the console area - and out the front of the console up to the dash area.



I also run window wiring in the normal channel -- under the doorsill etc -- in to the kick panel area and back to inside the door using a 5/8" (never the 1/2" crap) braided door stuff. The key to that is to get the door loom RIGHT!! People that don't know how to mark two sides of a hole (in different panels) get those holes "off" and that causes all manor of problems! I use a transfer punch -- if you don't know what that is -- look it up.



The key to wiring these days is to use RELAYS -- good ones! I like the SPAL "Fan" kits -- they're weather proof and seem to not fail like the cheap chinko stuff.... they cost more - but so what. So I prefer to do a couple well positioned power take offs -- and run to relays. Saves on burning up switches --- which were made for lighter loads -- and makes for a better electrical system.



Why people spend 20 grand for a motor and 25 grand for paint -- and then do crappy wiring is beyond me.... but it's because it comes as an "afterthought" and they just simply don't understand electricity and wiring.



So I got my Hwy 22 kit today. I took a look at trying to do what you did in the Camaro with the hinged rack but mine is a GM a-body (71 Cutlass Supreme). The "upper" shelf isn't very deep and is waaaayyy back in the trunk unlike the Camaro.

Any ideas from your experience where a good mount location might be found?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

[GregWeld]

So I got my Hwy 22 kit today. I took a look at trying to do what you did in the Camaro with the hinged rack but mine is a GM a-body (71 Cutlass Supreme). The "upper" shelf isn't very deep and is waaaayyy back in the trunk unlike the Camaro.

Any ideas from your experience where a good mount location might be found?


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk


That question would assume I knew what the trunk of a 71 Cutlass looked like.....


You could put it on the side (right or left) of the trunk and build a panel etc. But you have to actually be a hot rod builder to figure this stuff out and that's simply up to you.