Project Schism - another offbeat '23 Ford T

[toddshotrods]

Here I go again, as the project name suggests, cutting across the grain, doing everything wrong, and lovin every minute of it! :unibrow: A custom vehicle is supposed to be a journey that you get a lot of pleasure from, and for some reason I enjoy traveling different paths, so here goes...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/004.jpg
We're in the process of developing a line of "green", "sustainable technology", kit cars, loosely based on the Inhaler (http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=27588). The first prototype is mine, and being green isn't exactly my cup of tea, so it will have an evil twist - a 700hp turbo inline-four, mounted midship driving the rear wheels, and an electric motor driving the fronts; making an AWD, hybrid, car with +/-1000hp. :yes:

14pt NHRA-spec cage, and as low and aggressive of a stance as possible. The idea I am working of is "23 Ferrari Coupe", but (in accordance with the name) I am not worried about anything really looking antique. It'll be Ferrari red, with exposed carbon fiber, black anodizing, black chrome, black powder coating and paint, etc. Exposed SLA suspension front and rear, eventually big disc brakes, big forged wheels, etc. Kind of like a hard-edged, Pro-Touring, hot rod.

I'm here because Pro-Touring is the main influence guiding this build, and I like it here. If it's too far out though, and this thread gets booted, I understand...:_paranoid

As for the build, I am doing my final research and buying stuff now. I should have the steel for the frame and cage this week, and want to have a roller by the end of January. In February, we'll get the motor installed, and as much detail work as possible, because it's supposed to be at an educational summit on the 7th, to promote the kits to Ohio vo-tech schools. My personal number-one goal is to drive it into Goodguys here (Columbus) in July. It won't be so powerful then, but it should be functional; hopefully enough to run through the autocross course.

Merry Christmas!

[preston]

Looking forward to it. Many times as I have been overwhelmed in my own projects with "boring" details like getting the windows to seal and body panels to line up not to mention weight, I have often fantasized about building some kind of street rod performance car with the "Ariel Atom" mentality. There is nothing lighter than "nothing", except helium lol.

1000 hp AWD sounds nice, but the motor and batteries have to extract a hellacious weight penalty on a minimalist design like that.

[toddshotrods]

Looking forward to it. Many times as I have been overwhelmed in my own projects with "boring" details like getting the windows to seal and body panels to line up not to mention weight, I have often fantasized about building some kind of street rod performance car with the "Ariel Atom" mentality. There is nothing lighter than "nothing", except helium lol...
Thanks Preston. :) "Ariel Atom" mentality is a good way to sum up what I'm after - pure exhileration, screw practicality, but also useful beyond a race track.

...1000 hp AWD sounds nice, but the motor and batteries have to extract a hellacious weight penalty on a minimalist design like that.
Because I am using the electric drive conservatively (compared to the Inhaler), it won't require a huge battery pack. I can build a 200hp battery pack that would fit under the seats, and weigh between 25 & 50lbs. It would only have a range, on pure electric, of 10-15 miles (at <35mph), sort of like a Prius, but would be capable of providing the AWD traction needed for quick acceleration off the line, and out of corners (when we get the software sorted out) with street tires.

The challenge is going to be finding the right combination of parts. On the lower priced end of the spectrum, I can get a DC motor and controller for a few thousand bucks, plus about the same amount for the battery pack, that would deliver this. The downside is there's no regenerative braking, which would extend battery range a bit, and also also add a lot of "free" braking power to the front wheels. On the other hand, if I go AC I get regen, but would have to pay out the nose for a custom inverter to run the motor, and probably have the motor re-wound to support the extra current. The currently available motor/inverter combinations, that I know if, are only capable of around 100hp, and with much less torque.

The motors, either way, are around 80-100lbs. Only one is needed, so for ~150lbs total, I get AWD and a couple hundred more ponies.

Sorry for rambling... :rolleyes:


EDIT: I forgot, I have a 12:1 rack and pinion coming tomorrow, plus the tubing for the roll cage. I should be ready to order the steel for the frame soon. Cut, grind, and weld, starts next month... :yes:

[toddshotrods]

The Appleton steering rack arrived today, and we mocked up the main section of the cage. Next, I need to make some final decisions on the frame, so we can start building.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/002.jpg
Sorry for the cell phone pic, I keep forgetting to take my camera. :rolleyes:

[preston]

Ha ha - great photo. You have a long ways to go LOL.

[toddshotrods]

Ha ha - great photo. You have a long ways to go LOL.
:D It should go together pretty quickly. It's a prototype/development mule so, while I want it to be nice and not a rat rod, it's going to be put together, disassembled, cut and welded, as many times as it takes to find what we're looking for, so it's not like doing a higher end show-oriented build that requires massive investments of time to accomplish small to-do items. Plus, I can't wait to beat the hell out of it! :unibrow:

[toddshotrods]

Nothing major today, I just got the cage main hoop and halo tweaked a little, which makes the cage fit together much better. The bottom of the main hoop tucks in to the width of the (forthcoming) frame rails, and the halo is a bit narrower in back, which lets it hit all the way up on the main hoop.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/003.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/004.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/005.jpg
That motor is a Ford Zetec - one of the future options for the kits.

Here's a close-up of my little rack, and the electric drive (front) diff.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/006.jpg

A pause to celebrate the New Year, and next we purchase the rectangular tubing for the frame, and start building...

Happy New Year guys! :cheers:

[toddshotrods]

I'm not going to get too caught up in art with this project, but needed to do a small revision to test something. Most of this build will be decided and worked out in real-world steel and composites. After mocking up the cage, sifting through the frame design, measuring everything, and having a couple of the guys sit in the Inhaler and the mocked up cage, I realized I would need more surface area on the body, to achieve the body-to-roof ratio I desire. Rather than stretch the body vertically, I am going to add rocker panels under it, which are sort of an artistic swipe at the original Model T running boards; that actually rolled out and down. The point is it maintains the shallow T bucket body shape, and kind of props it up over the frame, Model T (Horse and buggy) style. The actual shapes will be determined as the car is built, but this should be close.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/005.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Drivetrain, wiring, and front suspension, pulled from the donor. Now we're laser focused on getting Schism on all fours. We will clean and detail a bit, but the main focus here is on testing the processes and procedures for manufacturing kits and customer builds. I'll being doing a bit of custom stuff now, and will go back and really go crazy on it after a summer of beating the hell out of it. :yes:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/007.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/008.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/009.jpg

[preston]

Cool.

Are you familiar with Midlana ? Another lightweight "mid-engine based on a FWD drivetrain" vehicle. No AWD electric power though. You might also check out dpcars.net, one of his many projects is a street rod based chassis car. I just figure we can all use as many design inputs as possible.

[toddshotrods]

Cool.

Are you familiar with Midlana ? Another lightweight "mid-engine based on a FWD drivetrain" vehicle. No AWD electric power though. You might also check out dpcars.net, one of his many projects is a street rod based chassis car. I just figure we can all use as many design inputs as possible.
Hey thanks Preston! :thumbsup: I was familiar with DP Cars, but had not heard of the MidLana before. Pretty similar to what we're up to. The AWD electric thing isn't a production feature, at least not yet. That's a custom feature on my car for research purposes.

[toddshotrods]

Now that the donor car is pretty much stripped, we're back to the chassis. We only worked on it for a bit today, but got the main hoop and halo bar fit and tacked. The A-pillar bars, dash and seat brace, and braces down into the front and rear frame rails are next.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/010.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/011.jpg

If you're wondering what's up with the wooden fixture, it's because we're also developing processes and techniques for educational purposes. The slots for the frame rails are CNC-cut and the fixture is leveled and really stable. The idea actually came from the AME SuperCar chassis kits (http://artmorrison.com/supercar.php), and the illustration they show of how it can be done with plywood and pine strips. We're not selling unwelded chassis or wooden fixtures; we just used the technique to demonstrate how modern technology can be combined with old school techniques in manufacturing. We're getting ready for an event with Ohio Department of Education in March and will pitch this as an example.

After this vehicle is on its wheels we plan to start fabricating a monster of a steel frame table for production.

[toddshotrods]

A tiny bit of progress. Things are moving slowly because I am teaching a couple of the team members metal fabrication. They have natural skills, but this is their first time actually working with metal. This shows the quality of the work they're doing. I'm very, very, proud of them. :)
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/012.jpg
When we first started on the chassis, I would step in on the more difficult areas; tonight, I watched in amazement as one of the team members carved out notches like she had been doing it for years. :cool:


The A-pillar bars are cut, and just need a tiny bit of finesse to be perfect.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/013.jpg

[toddshotrods]

A-pillar bars in, and our high-dollar mock-up stool has been retired! :lol: The seat bar and some bracing are next, then a little welding, then suspension...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/014.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I'm trying to keep the focus on the actual build, and not so much art and design, but will have a little art to guide the way, here and there. The art that the Schism rendering is based on is for the kits. It dawned on me today that I never lowered it from the standard production ride height, to my ride height (3-4", f-r). I did that and also, replaced the side exit exhaust tips with air intakes for the radiator and intercooler, channeled the exhaust out the back, and added the rear cage bars.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/006.jpg

We're back to work on it next week, after a week off to work on the Model E. The plan is to get the chassis off the fixture soon, and start skinning it with bodywork.

[toddshotrods]

One more: I finally came up with a second roof design I like. It will clean up the aerodynamic nightmare of the rag top style roof, and makes my car a little cleaner, neater...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/007.jpg

Back to building next week...

[waynieZ]

Interesting project. I like the rendering.

[toddshotrods]

Interesting project. I like therendering.
Thanks Wayne! I have difficulty doing anything normal. :unibrow:

[toddshotrods]

Now that we have a body, we can start tweaking the cage to match, and hanging parts inside it.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/015.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/016.jpg

We're using the old sectioned track nose to build the new front clip. The hood will be four inches shorter, so a new CAD model has been created (using the old model to start), with new lines to match the shorter span and track nose curves. More CAD/CNC foam soon...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/017.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/018.jpg

[toddshotrods]

The frame and main cage bars are welded up, and off the fixture, but I forgot to take my camera so no pics until tonight or tomorrow. It's mocked up on the floor, at ride height, and it's low... :yes:

Until I get pics of that, here is one where I'm working on templates for the roof and turtle deck.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/019.jpg

[Kendall Burleson]

I like it what ride height are you setting up for?:yes: :yes: :yes:

[toddshotrods]

I like it what ride height are you setting up for?:yes: :yes: :yes:

Thanks Kendall :thumbsup: Three inches between the frame and the ground at the front; four inches at the back, for a little hot rod attitude. That's going to be the actual ride height on coil-overs, no air.

[toddshotrods]

Swing low... :yes:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/022.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/020.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/021.jpg

Packaging the electric front-drive system will be a challenge. This works (8 or 9" diameter motor) but raises the center of gravity. Probably still much lower than a gas engine would be up there though. Most of the mass is inside the axle center lines, and concentrated on the longitudinal axis.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/023.jpg

I'm going to build a couple over-the-top resonators with these Supertrapp cans, to help tune the sound of the turbo four. Two of them will allow me to use enough baffling but still have the area of a 3-4" pipe that the big turbo will need. I'm looking for a European exhaust note.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/024.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Engine and tranmission in the general vicinity. Once we finalize the location, mounts will be fabricated to lock it down. It's getting solid mounts, to go with an abundance of rod ends in the suspension. Better have good glue on those fillings.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/025.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/026.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/027.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/028.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Gotta catch this thread up! I've been working out the suspension design in CAD. I was originally going to have the lower control arms brackets laser cut, but needed them faster than the local company could get them to me (plus, they would have taken a nice little chunk out of the project budget for such a low quantity). The little notches are position markers, that indicate where the bracket is located on the frame rails (positions 1 through 8 from front to rear, mirror image side-to-side).
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/010.jpg

So, we decided to hand cut them. We cut poster board patterns on our small laser (it won't cut steel or thick metals), and the process is underway now to make the sixteen brackets. We have the 16 suspension pivot holes measured, marked, and drilled, so far. Tomorrow, we will start cutting the other critical apsect - the right angle corners that actually mount on the frame - and then the outside profiles.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/029.jpg



Later, I will box the tops of the mounts in with hammered steel pieces, like this. The bottom will get a normal boxing plate.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/011.jpg



I'm also working on component layout, in Rhino. I did the suspension bracket design in Rhino as well, because they're just flat plates, with a couple critical dimensions. I will be doing some, more common, solid modeling in Pro/E soon too.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/012.jpg
Please excuse the crude shapes - accuracy in modeling them wasn't important, where everything goes is. The stacked dark grey objects under the front diff and motor, and in the floor, are the battery modules. That theoretical pack has 333 volts/1800 amps = 800hp potential, but it wouldn't all be used. The controller I'm thinking about for this project (grey box over motor and diff) is rated for 1000amp max (also continuous power rating) and about 400hp. I'm actually only looking for 200-300hp at the front wheels. The excess in battery, controller and motor capability, is for reliability; and, in the case of electric propulsion, also means more range. It should have the typical hybrid type "all electric" range of 30-40 miles from that little battery pack, because it's small and lightweight. I don't care about that so much, because I can drive until gas stations won't sell me any more fuel.

The yellow boxes are the fuel tanks; about 7 gallons worth - good for 300-ish miles, enough for the solid mounted everything, and cramped quarters, to say get out for a while, anyway.

The chassis design was inspired by the old school underslung hot rods, where (as I understand it) they flipped the frame 180*, hanging it from the axles to get the car lower. In this modern, independent suspension, kit car, version the point was the flat frame. It allows us to easily mount a variety of drivetrains, and hang a lot of componentry on the frame rails, as low as possible. It pushes the engine and transmission up higher than it would normally be, but I am hoping that everything else being mounted so low will counter that. We'll see...

[toddshotrods]

Wow, I didn't realize it had been almost a month since I updated this thread!

Since the last post, I decided to stop wrestling with myself and trying to kill two birds with the same stone. I split the production needs from my personal needs and desires, so this car will be free to go where I want to go.

The first thing is the roof had to go, and the had to get down out of the stratosphere. So, from here on, it's like taking a production car (the kits we're developing) and building a customized hot rod with it. The new plan:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/013.jpg

Now to catch the thread up. We cut the sixteen brackets and they're welded on. Worked perfectly.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/030.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/031.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/034.jpg

We're in process of machining the front knuckles.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/035.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/036
.jpg

And working out the rest of the chassis and suspension.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/037.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/038.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/039.jpg

[toddshotrods]

http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/040.jpg

Barely cleared a wimpy little 235 tire - gotta get some dish the other way on the rims later to get some meat back there.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/041.jpg

Finally snipped the cage off, and have been working on the motor mounts - locking it down solid. The point is to make fabricated steel mounts that appear to be vintage castings.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/042.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/043.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/044.jpg
Please ignore the lumpy welds, it's all going to be ground down and blended. I was pushing it to the max, on the edge of blowing holes, then building up enough weld to shape it. The camera flash actually hides the actual heat zone - had her nice and cherry red by the time I made it around the tubes.



I've just started scratching out a model for a slightly enhanced "T" grille shell. :yes:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/014.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Wow, over a month since an update! First, I decided to push a little closer to the edge of insanity on the design. Back to the earliest, turn of the century, automobiles - when doors, and a lot of the other body panels, weren't so commonplace. Also, I nixed the Ferrari red for exposed carbon fiber. This rendering is the concept art pic, hotlinked from my site, so it will update as I update it - hopefully there won't be any more radical changes to make that description invalid.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/schismart01.jpg

To make the shifter work, with the engine in back, I am going to make a custom mount, with rocker arms that push and pull rods, that push and pull the factory Honda shift cables. No boot, no housing, no cover-up, so this whole assembly has to be a mechanical, performing, art piece.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/048.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/049.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/053.jpg

We also started working on the rear upper control arm mounts. Machining holes in the tubing that will accept a fabricated assembly of the factory Honda mounting bushings, and a fabricated countersink for the nut. We broke the collet in the process, so that has been on hold for a bit. I also needed to re-think my plans for how the frame rails run back to them, so the brakes are on this for a bit.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/051.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/052.jpg

The front knuckles have been cut off, machined, drilled, and tapped (.750-16) to allow us to use a .750" rod end in place of the upper balljoint. We can adjust the spindle height with spacers between the rod end and the knuckle. The goal here is to cost-effectively develop the specifications for what's really needed, and eventually machine or cast new knuckles - unless these happen to work well enough as they are.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/055.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/056.jpg

I had to revise a lot of my plans because it was going to take longer to accomplish some of my original goals than I had hoped. The new plans are just about written in stone, and we should be back to work on it next week.

[toddshotrods]

The CAD grille shell is finally ready for some type of CNC process. I haven't decided what that process will be yet. The most elaborate would be to clamp a 6" thick piece of billet in a mill and whittle it down to about 5 pounds - I seriously doubt that's going to happen this time! Too many other things to do to spend that much money on billet, and that much time in front of a mill. The next option is to mill a plug out of wood, wax, or plastic, and have it cast - that's the most feasible plan. A third alternative is to print it in plastic and have it cast. We have a new 3D printer coming that would do a nice job, but it would have to be printed in, maybe four, sections and glued together.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/017.jpg
The other problem with 3D printing is the transition between the outer rolled edge and the front panel is supposed to be a subtle concave rolled surface. I left the model as is, to save time, because the ball end mill will automatically leave that surface. If it's printed I need to either create that surface, or fill it in by hand after printing.

The little stand on the bottom is for the emblem. Rather than being perched on top, it's going to "float" in a recessed pocket in the grille.

Some suspension parts and composite supplies arrive Monday and Tuesday, and we get back to work on this puppy.

[Garage Dog 65]

Really enjoy watching your progress and creativeness Todd - Nice Stuff !

What's the planned finish on the grill shell ? Black chrome, black annodize - or painted ? If paint - wondering if you could do it in fiberglass or something non-metallic. Maybe print out paper cross-sections from your cad - spray glue those to plywood - cut them out and build a buck - then fill the openings with foam, sand/sculpt, add a layer of fiberglass and then bodywork like they do speaker surrounds ? Use that as a casting mold - or make a mold and do the finished part outta glass or carbon. Etc.

Maybe mill a mold outta tooling wax and pull a part directly outta that ?

Hope ya figure out a cost effective solution - that's always the challenge for us guys...

We'll be watching. Best of luck !

Jim

[toddshotrods]

Really enjoy watching your progress and creativeness Todd - Nice Stuff !...
Thanks Jim! :thumbsup: Right back at ya, because I l-o-v-e your Porsche! :yes:


...What's the planned finish on the grill shell ?...
Black anodized, that's why it has to be some type of aluminum. We have a casting guy in house, but I'm not sure he's up for it. I will ask him. There are some other casting places in town, that I may try to work with. I'm really trying to do something different to experiment and to give my team a unique experience. I like to see them :)

I considered just cutting a mold and laying-up a composite shell, but that would be too easy! :rolleyes: :unibrow: :D



...Hope ya figure out a cost effective solution - that's always the challenge for us guys...

We'll be watching. Best of luck !

Jim
Yup, it is. We'll figure something out. Thanks again! :thumbsup:

[toddshotrods]

...and with my "Bat-T" logo emblem mounted. I still haven't decided how I'm going to float the "T" in the ring. The choices are a peg stand under the bottom of the T, tabs to the "wings" of the "T", or a clear or smoked resin center. It will most likely be 3D printed and cast in aluminum or bronze, and anodized or plated. Maybe something a little brighter to contrast with the black anodized shell and black grille.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/018.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I have some CAD/CNC foam bucks to do for Schism, and still have to do a full CAD version of the Model E for CFD aero work, so I decided to hack out a rough draft of Schism's door-less body, from the Inhaler Project T-bucket body model I'm working on, and see what it looks like on the chassis, with the grille. Eventually this body model's kinks and wrinkles will be smoothed out, and the original Model T details incorporated.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/019.jpg
A little balance will be added with the air intake system for the cooling and induction systems. It will be designed to look like twin luggage trunks, just behind the body. They should bulge out just enough to fill in the gap between the body and the ICE drivetrain, rear suspension, and rear wheels. That's the main foam cores I need.

[toddshotrods]

Finally got the S2 shell laid-up. I like these one-layer skins because I can bend and shape them very easily. When I get it set and braced, I am going to use canned foam to add beads and inner bracing, then make it rigid with more glass lay-up. When it's strong enough the outside with be straightened and detailed, then skinned with a layer of carbon fiber, that will be the final finish (with a satin clear top coat). One day, I hope to pull a mold from it and produce a lighter, stronger, perfect version of it, but for the foreseeable future this prototype will suffice.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/057.jpg
I can't wait to show the details I have planned for this body. :)

[toddshotrods]

My single layer S2 body shell, without any means of support. :_paranoid :lol:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/058.jpg

The reason I like these thin skins is I can subtly reshape them, without losing the basic identity of the Model T body. Because the skin actually has the compound curves of the original body, it can only be stretched and tweaked so far before it objects. In CAD, or with raw materials, I can make almost anything, and it's easier to lose the basic form. Those original curves reflect light to your eyes in a familiar pattern, that your mind identifies as a so-and-so...

A simple wooden inner structure props it up, and allows the process to begin.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/059.jpg

Then I start sculpting. The main goal was to bow the back of the body, to give it a more upscale feel.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/060.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/061.jpg

The dash is also going to be very unique, but the details won't be incorporated for a while. The bead that runs around the top edge of the body will seamlessly roll around the door openings, and up over the dash.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/062.jpg
I stopped here to refresh and look at it again before starting the foam and structural reinforcements, because I don't want to do it twice. I can't wait to see it with the seats and dash.

[toddshotrods]

Hmmm, I didn't think it had been this long since I updated this thread.

The upper control arms are getting rod ends, and a little stretch, in place of the upper balljoint.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/067.jpg

Some quick surfacing modeling to work out the shape of, and develop patterns for, the front crossmember.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/020.jpg

More of the same to develop the electric motor mount. It's going to be "sculpted" out of .250" steel.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/021.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/022.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/068.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/070.jpg

Starting on the roll cage. The main hoop will be replaced by retractable twin roll bars, and the cage will be tucked down inside the body. These are the stanchions for the roll bars.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/069.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/071.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/072.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/073.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Working on the battery pack = 296v/33ah = 9.8kwh, good for about 30 miles all-electric. It'll provide 2145 amps at the conservative discharge rating and theoretically there are 850 horses in the pack, but I'm only looking for 200-300 from the motor. It's overkill that will last longer, because it isn't stressed a lot, but it fits in the floor. :)
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/023.jpg
The yellow shape is the fuel tank. I'm going to run it on E85 only.


More CAD to develop the rear crossmember/exhaust mount.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/024.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/025.jpg

Then, starting to hash it out in steel.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/074.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/075.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/081.jpg


Also working out my plans for the mufflers in CAD. It will normally follow the path of the pink line, through three chambers. The outlet tips are sized for proper flow through the ten of them. The butterfly will be boost activated, and permit straight-through flow via a, composite wrapped, perforated center tube - basically a glasspack.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/026.jpg


Also getting ready to do the door bars, next week.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/086.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Back to the motor mount. Because of the rather heavy electric motor's sudden, and relentless, torque I wanted to slot the crossmember into the frame rails, rather than it just being welded between them. The girl on the team was the only one that didn't flinch when I described it, and went right after it.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/083.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/084.jpg

Steel plates all cut and ground close, ready to be hammered to fit the motor, finished up, and assembled.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/085.jpg


The thing I am most proud of with this, is most of the people on my team have never done metal fabrication before, and have never even worked on a serious car project. We are purposely whittling this car of raw steel, by hand, as much as possible, so that they will be able to say "we did that!" :yes:

[toddshotrods]

I've been working on a basic setup for the suspension, so we can get the upper control arm mounts fabricated and installed. So far, I have a 1.88" (static) front roll center height, and 3.42" (static) rear roll center height (IRS). I've been using this free (sample) software (http://www.brownperformanceengineering.com/downloads.htm) just to plot the basic layout. I know, I need to pony up and buy something, so I can dig in deeper and see what it's really going to do. The suspension is based on MII street rod design, using Honda Accord and custom fabricated parts, for AWD capability.

This car is really just a toy. It's a street rod that I just want to be fun to drive and play with. All the big power numbers are just for kicks really, because who doesn't like to unleash hundreds of ponies on a lightweight chassis! :yes: In the end, whatever it does or doesn't do I will accept and be happy, as long as it is fun to play with. I do plan to try it on autocross, road course, drag strip, and maybe even a standing mile, but that's just to have more fun with it - not to be ultra competitive with anyone else. If it does happen to be competitive - it'll just be more fun! :cheers:

For what it's worth, my current specs have less vertical roll center migration than the C5 specs I used to compare... :cool:

[toddshotrods]

The motor mount plates are coming along. A little more clean up, and a little fine-tuning on the fit, and these will be ready to tack together. Then, we start hammering that saddle, and twisting and curling the ends - I cannot wait to do that! :yes: :unibrow: The longitudinal cross brace needs more profile work, but we're waiting for the saddle to do that - it will be much easier to fine tune it to fit the saddle than re-hammer the saddle to fit it.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/087.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/088.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Time to update. Front crossmember starting to shape up.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/089.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/103.jpg


Rear crossmember.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/093.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/104.jpg


Starting to work on the cage again.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/091.jpg


My over the top shifter. The main arch is going to be a fabricated, tapered, I-beam. The shifter will push and pull rocker arms, that push and pull the shifter cables, which run under the engine and radiator.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/099.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/100.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/101.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/102.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/105.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I used the pair of cheap plastic Jeg's seats as a buck to start creating my own design fiberglass/carbon fiber composite bomber seats.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/090.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/094.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/095.jpg



We're also going to attempt to make a carbon fiber plenum/aluminum runner intake, based on the factory intake manifold runners, and using plain weave prepreg. It will be interesting to see how much power we lose, and how many pounds of boost it will take to rip it apart! :rofl:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/027.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/028.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/092.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/096.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/097.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/098.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/031.jpg

Now time to go to Goodguys and get some more inspiration... :yes:

[toddshotrods]

We're still chipping away. Some of my team was ready to work tomorrow, but I told them I am going to Goodguys, and holding the to-do list hostage until after the weekend is over! :unibrow: Maybe their dedication and persistence will pay off and we'll drive it in the show next year. :yes:

I update the mock-up in Rhino frequently to get an idea of how all the ideas are playing out together.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/034.jpg


An interesting feature is the electric motor controller. I am planning to put it in an antique clock style glass (actually polycarbonate) dome. I'm trying to actively feature as much of the car as possible. Instead of hiding stuff that doesn't seem to fit the theme, I try to repackage it...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/035.jpg



Rear crossmember with the muffler pockets hammered out and welded in.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/106.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/107.jpg



First door bar cut, notched, and tacked in.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/108.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/109.jpg



Selector arm mounted on the shifter.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/110.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/111.jpg



Now off to Goodguys and get some more inspiration for how I can push my little team to new heights... :cool: If you see a little old dude, with a handful of 20-somethings, and this on some of our backs, it's us.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/inhaler/forums/misc/049.jpg

[toddshotrods]

We bored a hole in the shift rocker arm, then turned a sleeve to fit it and accept the spherical bearing.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/113.jpg


We're going to make a cap, with reinforcing ribs, for each side of the shift rocker arm. One side will be welded on, the other will bolt on, for bearing removal/replacement.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/114.jpg


I figured out the location then had one of the guys cut the selector arm mount. He's probably the least experienced on the Team, just learning to work with tools, but he's also one of the most consistent, dedicated...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/112.jpg

Here he has cleaned that mount up a little, and hammered it to shape. We also made the scrolled pieces for the clevis mount on the end of it.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/119.jpg

And, we're starting to form the top and bottom plates of the I-beam mount.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/120.jpg



The rear crossmember is coming along...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/115.jpg


... and the front.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/116.jpg


I trimmed the seat shells. They're going to get rolled beads around the perimeter, and lots of detail.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/117.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/118.jpg

[dug]

Lookin good! keep at it:thumbsup:

[dirtshark]

So cool to see someone looking way outside of the box...great stuff, keep it coming!!!

[toddshotrods]

Lookin good! keep at it:thumbsup:
...great stuff, keep it coming!!!
Thanks guys! :thumbsup:



So cool to see someone looking way outside of the box...
I kind of live out there, somewhere. I try to come back in and touch base occasionally, but always wake up back out there where I was. :lol:

[toddshotrods]

Who fabricates a rolled and tapered I-beam, just to mount a shifter? I guess I do, with the help of a crazy-azz crew that doesn't see anything wrong with realizing my visions. :willy: The top and bottom plates are almost there.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/121.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/122.jpg


Roughing out the ribs and end caps for the shift rocker arm.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/123.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/124.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/125.jpg


The other door bar on the chassis.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/126.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/127.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/128.jpg


I'm also making progress on the grille. Now, it's going to be an exposed carbon fiber shell, with a metal mesh grille (preferrably stainless), with copper (I think) nipples to mount the mesh insert. The nipples will go through the shell, like a wire wheel, and be visible on the outsides of it. The emblem will be cast in copper too, I think.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/036.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/037.jpg

[waynieZ]

Wow your doing some awesome stuff! Very Impressive.

[toddshotrods]

Wow your doing some awesome stuff! Very Impressive.

Thanks Wayne! :D :thumbsup:

[toddshotrods]

The organic crossmember/muffler mount "seed" we planted is growing nicely.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/129.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/130.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/131.jpg



Starting on the crossmembers for the roll bar stanchions.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/132.jpg



More work on the shifter.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/134.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/135.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/133.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/138.jpg



And, every once in a while we mock it all up again to make sure all the individual components are contributing something meaningful to the whole.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/136.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/137.jpg

Edit: I need to buy a can of Troy's bare metal stuff - second year in a row I walked away from Goodguys without it. :rolleyes: It's Poteet's damn Talledega (sp?)! I can't think straight when I'm around that puppy! :bow:

[toddshotrods]

One of the guys finished hammering the plates, so yesterday I welded the I-beam shifter mount up. Next come the rocker arm mounts, and hours and hours of grinding and shaping.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/140.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/141.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/142.jpg




With that firmly underway, we've started on the floor-mount pedal assembly. More steel plate (mostly .250", purposely over-engineered for abuse tolerance), plasma cut, grind, grind, grind. We're using the pivots, and crank sections, of the Honda Accord brake pedals with our own foot lever sections. I was going to keep the ratio the same to keep the original feel, but Schism is so small that we need to reduce the overall size, so the effort will be increased a bit.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/139.jpg
The funny-shaped (un-cut) piece is the main mounting plate. It will have a clevis that straddles the left front frame rail, and the little arm section will bolt to the front lateral main box frame section. The arms will be in clevises that extend up off the main plate. The slots are for the crank sections to reach down under the floor. They'll push rods extending back to rear mounted master cylinders, just behind the driver's seat. Access to them will be gained by flipping that seat up and opening an access panel. The ECU, fuses, etc, will located behind the passenger seat, and accessed the same way.

[toddshotrods]

I forgot this one. Now that the rear crossmember is taking shape, we were able to resume work on the rear motor mount - specifically, the main gusset. A little more trimming and shaping and this will be ready to weld.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/143.jpg

[toddshotrods]

The push is on for me now to get most of my ideas underway, or at least mocked-up, to find out how it all works together, and where changes may be needed. I've been at it all week, sacrificing sleep for progress. Today, I cut the foam dash plug. Along with the shifter, and pedals, we have to hang the steering column, and the dash and electric motor controls, to find out just how little room there is inside that tiny cowl.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/038.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/144.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/145.jpg



I like vehicle interiors that are design statements, not just traditional interior components with special coverings and finishes. I get why most need to be that way, but for radical custom projects, why not go beyond "normal" inside too? The major manufacturers do with their concept vehicles, and some of the higher end hot rod/custom builds go there. With Schism, I'm trying to make the interior look scupltured, like it was carved from stone, and hammered from metal, by ancient Romans and Greeks; more chariot than car. Now that we're starting to hang parts in there, that theme is beginning to become more perceptible, I hope...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/146.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/147.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/148.jpg
The contrasting bare materials will be like an inverted image of these renderings, but I like how they work together.

[toddshotrods]

Time to update. I'll try to keep the narrative to a minimum, and let the pics do the talking. The pedal assembly is coming along.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/149.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/151.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/152.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/154.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/155.jpg

I modeled the throttle pedal pad, and cut a wooden plug.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/156.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/159.jpg

Then had the casting guy at Columbus Idea Foundry (the complex we're being incubated in) cast it.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/160.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/161.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/162.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/163.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/164.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/165.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/166.jpg

A little finishing work, and heat treating, and it will be perfect.

[toddshotrods]

Chassis.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/150.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/153.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/174.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/175.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/179.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/180.jpg

Those rear bars angle downward as they go back, kind of giving it a hardtail chopper look. :unibrow:

[toddshotrods]

And finally, a roller coaster ride on the intake, but progress, none-the-less. I cut a foam plug for casting the plenum flange (the same day we cast the throttle pedal pad). First a test, then the actual plug.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/157.jpg


I machined it in two halves, hot glued them together, cut a fixture plate in a scrap piece of wood, then hot glued the plug to it and cut the internal runners, while the ShopBot was still zeroed over the fixture. I simply snapped it off the fixture when that was done, and cleaned up the ends of the runners.http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/167.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/168.jpg


Then the casting process began.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/169.jpg.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/170.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/171.jpg

Unfortunately, this one went bust. There weren't enough sprues (pour holes) and vents, and the gases and aluminum created new cavities right out onto the shop floor. :lol:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/172.jpg


Like a good horror movie when they show an eye opening, or a hand twitching, this glowing crucible says we live to cast another day... :_paranoid :D
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/173.jpg

[toddshotrods]

When I took a second look at the casting, I realized that the most important part of it had actually cast almost perfectly, so we milled the bad parts of, simultaneously milling the top and bottom flat and true. I actually like it more than the original design, so I am in the process of designing a new plenum to cap it off.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/176.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/177.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/178.jpg

More to come... :yes:

[Chevette]

When are you going to start making your tires?:lol: Lookin' good, Todd.

[toddshotrods]

When are you going to start making your tires?:lol: Lookin' good, Todd.
:lol: Don't give me any ideas! :D Thanks! :thumbsup: :)

[toddshotrods]

Here's the new plenum design. At first glance it looks much simpler, mainly because I haven't modeled the real thing yet. This is just a quick mock-up, to make sure I liked the idea. The plenum will be a simple, fabricated, rounded box, aluminum sheet metal piece, with a plate on top to mount the TB. The vintage, oil bath style, air cleaner is actually a hat to feed the boosted air charge into the TB. The top of the air cleaner will have a recess for my Bat-T logo emblem, and will be secured with three or four buckles around the perimeter of the housing. The housing will be sort of bowl shaped. Not seen here, the "snorkel" will roll under and point down towards the oil pan, where the outlet tube from the intercooler will come through.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/040.jpg



The roll cage is coming along. We can finally start tying in the rear suspension, with these bars in place.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/181.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/182.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/183.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/184.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Working in Rhino again, because this is mainly to develop patterns for hand cutting and grinding the brackets, I think (if I decide to have them laser cut the same CAD files will work), I finally have the front suspension sorted out.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/041.jpg
At the same time, I also finally settled on a plan for headlights. Those tiny little pivoting balls in the front upper control arm brackets are the headlights! :yes: They'll be fitted with really powerful LEDs, and will hopefully provide enough light to at least get off the road until dawn. :rofl:

A couple full mock-up poses - please disregard the fact that the CV joints and upper control arm mounts try to occupy the same space, that will be corrected with longer axles, c-notched upper plates, and a really trick chain-driven differential.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/043.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/042.jpg



We also have a new intern. She showed up at my office door yesterday evening and asked if she could join in on the fun, then hit the ground running by working on the center holes for the brake and clutch master cylinder mount. I measured, she did the CAD model for a template to guide the plasma cutter, she cut and ground until they fit nice and snug. :) The first pic is obviously fresh off the plasma.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/185.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/inhaler/forums/buildpics/248.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/inhaler/forums/buildpics/249.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Pattern for the basic profile shape of the "fitted luggage" cases that will fill the space between the body and rear drivetrain. The original concept had a larger vintage style faux trunk that would have covered the radiator and fans completely. These will just be small cases, that will probably hold the controllers for the two drivetrains. Ideally, they'll be upholstered to match the seat pads, and they must have antique buckles.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/186.jpg



The mount for the master cylinders is coming along.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/187.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/188.jpg

And the emergency brake:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/189.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/190.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/191.jpg

[toddshotrods]

A couple more steps on the rear suspension.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/192.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/193.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Long-story-short, I was going to donate Schism to my non-profit, the Inhaler Project, as a teaching tool for training the interns and volunteers, but those plans have been rethought and retracted - I'm keeping my car. :) Now time to bring this thread up to date:

First of all, I am making some changes to the theme and direction of the vehicle. I've realized that my middle-aged azz is no longer so serious about racing and more into just driving and enjoying life. The theme and direction of, and work on, the vehicle will be accordingly adjusted. I still want as much power as possible, but more for giggle-factor than outright performance. I also realized that I want a roof - even without doors - because, even though I actually love heat, I don't particularly enjoy roasting in direct sunlight; and want to want to drive this car - a lot. This rendering will evolve with my thoughts and preferences.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/201.jpg


The front, upper, rear control arm brackets are well underway and should be ready soon.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/194.jpg


In the process of trying to convert the car for Inhaler Project purposes, I figured out a way to move the body and electric motor forward for more legroom inside - that's a keeper, so here's one of the interns (it's still being built in the Inhaler Project shop) cutting the front, rearward-most, lower control arm mounts off. The motor mount now replaces them, doing double duty.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/195.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/196.jpg

The saddle mount plate is being enlarged to reach back to the crossmember. This actually works out better for the motor mount because the counter-rotational force of the motor will be more directly and effectively transmitted into the crossmember.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/199.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/200.jpg
If you're wondering about the rough hogging process, I am still using Schism as a training took until I get a dedicated project started for the interns and volunteers. I start them all off with hand tools and right angle grinders, so I can see what their natural skill levels are. They're instructed to "leave the lines" when they cut parts out and grind back to the lines. That gives me a lot of time and metal to see if I can develop their hand-eye coordination, before ruining a part; and it's also a test of their work ethic. I eventually handed these parts to one of my "pro" fabricators to finish.




I've started working on the throttle pedal, picking up from where Evan (one of the interns) left off before having to hit the books again.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/197.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/198.jpg



I suffered an inadvertent external hard drive crash (spilled a mug of coffee on it) and the files in it hadn't been back up yet, so I had to remodel the front upper control arm mounts. That's done, and naturally/probably, a little better the second go-round. We should be cutting these soon.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/202.jpg



Finally we're also working on one of my more elaborate systems - the control switches for the electric drive. This is a part that I plan to go way overboard on, including fine-tuning the actual feel of the switches clicking into and out of position. Amanda was doing the right-angle grinding above, but I gave her a break with a little manual mill work on the switch levers.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/203.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/204.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I had planned to start etching or engraving the patterns directly on the steel, but Curt was ready for more parts, so I rushed these through, the old way, with more laser-cut poster board patterns. I was a little thin around the inside edges of the headlight opening, for some reason, but that's easily corrected while grinding them out. The important part is they're out of my CAD workshop and on the way to being real steel...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/205.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/206.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/207.jpg




I'm also making progress on the roof model. It's just roughed in right now to get the basic shape worked out. I'm attempting to strike a careful balance between Model T, Roaring 20's grand touring cars, and classic Ford, styling cues. I also want the roof, and the whole car, to be heavily stylized, and "artsy". Now, that the basic form is set, I can start working the lumps, bumps, and kinks out, and adding more detail...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/208.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Electric motor mount is getting close.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/209.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/210.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/211.jpg

By the time I got those pieces tacked in and the saddle piece rolled, I was pretty psyched about finally seeing the motor in the car but made myself stop because I need to take my time and get everything to fit together and line up, just so... :yes:

[toddshotrods]

The front drive system from the electric motor is going to be via chain - just because... To make that happen, I am building my own chain-drive differential. The first version will be from this Toyota Celica GTS diff.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/212.jpg
It's open right now, but will be converted with a Phantom Grip LSD; or maybe something stronger, like a Quaiffe, if available. Ultimately, I can do it all over with something stronger, if that proves necessary. Being on the front wheels, it's not likely that I will be able to apply much of the motor's 1000ft-lb capability, so it will probably survive. The real stress is going to come from braking, where the electric drive turns into KERS. The import guys put quite a bit of power through their little FWD diffs, and this is a slightly beeefier IRS/RWD piece, so... We'll see. :)

[toddshotrods]

I'm kind of working my way from the inside-out on the design, as the car is being physically developed. Old cars were full of levers and pedals and switches, that kind of sets the tone (to me) for the whole vehicle; wonderfully complex and sophisticated.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/213.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Sometimes what you're looking for is hiding right under your nose. I purchased this little Toyota diff a couple years ago for a project I decided not to pursue, and it turns out to be perfect for Schism. :yes: Distractions and detours pay off sometimes. :unibrow:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/214.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/215.jpg

[preston]

I appreciate you sharing all this stuff with us Todd. Interesting design and lots of twists and turns.

I would not one thing - T style roadsters and such are usually built on a lightweight theme, all of the closeups of your brackets and stuff everything seems to be made of .125-.250 thick steel ! Reminds me of the first scratch built car I put together. I wonder if you could downsize some of the thicknesses and add a little more gusseting and fabrication ? Maybe i"m off base just something I noticed.

I do like your designs though.

[toddshotrods]

I appreciate you sharing all this stuff with us Todd. Interesting design and lots of twists and turns...

...I do like your designs though.

Thanks Preston, it's a fun project to design and work on. I'm happy that it's interesting and entertaining to others. :thumbsup:


...I would not one thing - T style roadsters and such are usually built on a lightweight theme, all of the closeups of your brackets and stuff everything seems to be made of .125-.250 thick steel ! Reminds me of the first scratch built car I put together. I wonder if you could downsize some of the thicknesses and add a little more gusseting and fabrication ? Maybe i"m off base just something I noticed...
Your observations have merit. I am usually a fan of lighter is better, and as light as possible is golden (I actually prefer aluminum and composites over steel), but I decided to have a little fun with heavy steel for a change of pace. The final goal is to make all of these parts look like vintage cast iron, with rolled edges and blended welds, which will help them at least not "look" so heavy. All those parts are actually also much smaller, in real life, than they appear on screen.

Physically, I have also concentrated the heavy stuff in strategic areas where I also needed to build strength. I think the overall vehicle is going to be a lot lighter than it would seem. I do pay attention to how much weight I am adding with the heavy steel parts - so far, probably an extra 75-100lbs - and even being a hybrid, with two complete drivetrains, I am still shooting for around 1500lbs, max. Not too much of a pig. :lol:

If I even hit half of my ultimate power goals, and stay at or under 1500lbs, I will have a 3:1 weight-to-power ratio - that should be fun! :unibrow:



The electric motor is finally in place. The saddle mount is not welded yet, because I want to walk around it and stare at it for a while, then patiently position and align it, before tacking the mount in.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/216.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/217.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I have the roof split and ready to machine from four sheets of 2" foam.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/218.jpg


And, I have started on the "fitted luggage". I had originally intended to have them upholstered with leather to match whatever goes on the seats, but now that I see them, out of my head, in "CAD-life", that's going to be hard to do. I'm thinking exposed carbon fiber, with a big leather strap and my Bat-T logo on a big metal buckle... :unibrow:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/219.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/220.jpg

[GregWeld]

How do you get the luggage "off" the car Todd?? And when you do - how do you pack it? Or am I missing something?

[toddshotrods]

How do you get the luggage "off" the car Todd?? And when you do - how do you pack it? Or am I missing something?
Hey Greg! It's not really luggage, they're cases for the engine and motor controls, and electric drive batteries. :D

I just started working on the models earlier today, so there isn't much detail yet. The backs will be aluminum panels that bolt to the roll cage rear bars, and the cases will snap or buckle onto those plates. All the internal goodies will be mounted on the plates, so what you see here are the covers.

As for real luggage or storage space - there ain't none! :lol: Should be able to stuff a fresh pair of underwear and a jacket on the floor in front of the seat, for weekend trips! :rofl:

[GregWeld]

As for real luggage or storage space - there ain't none! :lol: Should be able to stuff a fresh pair of underwear and a jacket on the floor in front of the seat, for weekend trips! :rofl:



Oh yeah! I have a car like that! It's called an R8!!


:cheers:

[toddshotrods]

Oh yeah! I have a car like that! It's called an R8!!


:cheers:
:D


I ended up keeping Schism because it was moving beyond being a teaching tool for the typical skill level of the interns coming in, and I didn't want to back the project down to match their needs - it's easier to just start a purposed project for them. I do, however, have a handful of talented individuals that will still work on this car, where I can continue to hone their skills. Amanda is one of them. She was out of town last week, but was back this evening. I asked her to locate the center and machine the recesses for the (preferably stainless) selector arm pivot mounts.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/221.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/222.jpg


It's just rough-cut right now, and will be finished after the pivot mounts are fabricated, so everything can be machined to fit precisely together.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/223.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/224.jpg

[toddshotrods]

A little more work on the suspension.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/225.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/226.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/227.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/228.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I have two active projects that are my personal responsibility to fund and finish, Schism and an electric motorcycle project named Scrape. I have been wrestling with making a decision on which one was going to be my "flagship" project (getting the bigger percentage of my resources) for months now, and finally decided that it would be the bike. That's a good thing, actually, for Schism because it means it doesn't bear the weight of carrying my most ambitious ideas. That means I can focus on just making it run and drive, and enjoying it for whatever it happens to be. Considering the fact that it should only weigh about 1500lbs, handle like a kart, and that hot rods are usually an evolutionary journey - I'm comfortable and confident in the fact that it should be a nice little hot rod, that gets better and better with time...

I like my rounded roof but when I count up the cost of actually producing it, it looks a little out of balance for the less intense of the two projects. I had already modeled the ragtop version, so I decided to see if I like it. Compared to finishing the rounded roof to paint quality and then giving it a layer of exposed cosmetic carbon fiber, the rag top would just require stretching fabric over ribs, resin coating it, then laying up the composites - which wouldn't have to be paint quality final finish (speaking of waves and ripples, not fabric texture), because it's supposed to look like it's fabric stretched over ribs...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/229.jpg

No final decision on which one yet, but this makes more sense on paper and would help me get to Goodguys (Columbus) easier. :yes:

[toddshotrods]

Most of the interns' work I have been posting is the lower end eductional program, where I start off by building basic tool skills and familiarity, and assess the intern's abilities and natural skill sets, to determine where to go with them. Amanda is on the other end of the spectrum of our (currently developing) educational programs. She already has the skills, and my goal is to challenge her, by creating situations that initiate creative thinking and problem solving, then help her most effectively use her skills to reach her goals. The majority of what I have been doing with her, thus far, has been for my own assessment needs. She's pretty awesome...

Yesterday's project was to figure out her own way to turn the ends of the lower control arm ends to fit in the tubing. The four-jaw chuck is missing for the lathe, which set the stage for her to come up with her own solution. There is no right or wrong, and points are given for creative excellence. She used a rotary table on the mill, which let her use the digital readout to precisely hone in on the desired final dimension. Granted, the rotary table still has a three-jaw chuck, but you have to admit this was a much more creative, innovative, solution (that also allowed more precision in a "production line" like environment than simply turning on the lathe and checking frequently with a caliper or micrometer...)
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/230.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/231.jpg




The end result? Spot on. These will be pressed into the tubes, kinked to get them aimed at the frame mounts, and then notched to fit sections of tubing that will hold the bushings. I realized that the plan I was following was a oil-n-water mix of two different ideas, and wouldn't work as intended, with floppy rod ends. We're going to turn our own UHMW polyethylene bushings (quieter than Delrin, and self-lubing).
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/232.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Amanda cut four bearing sleeves for the frame pivots, cut the tubes, and pressed the ends into them.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/234.jpg


I modeled and cut temporary bushings from LDPE. Later these will be replaced with custom UHMW bushings, with metal sleeves.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/235.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/236.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/237.jpg

While cutting them, I was away from the ShopBot doing one of my other multitask items, and a piece of the LDPE melted onto the end mill and caused a little damage to a couple of the bushings, but they'll still work to get everything lined up, with a little hand finishing work.
__________________

[toddshotrods]

Years ago, when I was busy dreaming up things to do to my then-Camaro-project, Bill Howell urged me to just get the thing on the road and drive it. It turned out to be awesome advice, in a couple of ways. After three years of existence primarily as a shop project, I had a blast the whole summer of 2007 driving my unfinished, primered, project car! :thumbsup: I did a couple local shows, but mostly just drove the darn thing, gaining perspective on what I really wanted to do with it when Ohio winter forced it back in the shop.

The funny part is I ultimately realized I didn't even like the car! :rofl: I bought it (a 79 "California car") to sort of re-live my 2nd-gen "high school sweetheart" 70 Camaro (an Ohio rust bucket). After another summer of love, I realized that those memories were best left... as memories...

Fast forward to this year, and the Schism project, and I've finally realized that I started building this car as a budget driver - and how far I have strayed from that premise. :willy: That's because I actually like the car - in the shop, as a project. It definitely trips my creative switch. Good exercise, but I started hearing Bill's "voice" again, and thinking about how I didn't like the Camaro, after all that time (pretty much gave it away to unburden myself).

Hence, I am on a mission to "Just Drive It" in 2013, before I go any further off the deep end in design - to find out if I like being in it. Number one priority is finding the things that would hinder that mission, and eliminating them. The first step was returning to the cheapo fiberglass body, because my carbon fiber one-off is going to be a serious investment of time and money. I've also conceded to the fact that my nearly half-century old azz is not crazy about the idea of being pelted by pebbles and sprayed with random liquids, so the doors are staying on it. :D
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/238.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/239.jpg


The one thing that I do want to keep is the roof because, as any of you Goodguys (Columbus) alumni surely realize, it gets a little warm here in the summer. Even if I move somewhere where the sun has less rage, I'm pretty convinced I'll spend a lot more time in it with some shade overhead. The buggy style rag top is underway.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/240.jpg
The funny thing about this is when I mocked these pieces up on the car I thought it was way too tall (against the backdrop of the other roadster and the bike). A quick check with the tape measure brought me back to reality - it will stand 41" tall, with the composite skin! :yes:



I love the rear window. I am not really a Ferd guy, but this makes me want to etch the Ford script logo on the glass.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/241.jpg



Tunnel vision! :cool: Should be fun at triple digits... :wow: :lol:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/242.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Caveat: Long-winded insight into the "Todd" design process.

Finally, for the first time since we actually started cutting and grinding metal on this car, I see what's in my head on the shop floor. I now get that "feeling", followed by an endless stream of creative ideas, every time I see it. That has been missing. Most of what I have been doing has been in search of that creative spark, not because of it. Thing that unlocked it? The roof.

It's really not the roof itself. It's everything. The roof makes all of the ideas come together. The radically chopped, pinched, and sectioned body; the bite-sized, tombstone-shaped firewall flowing into a classic model T cowl; the three-inch ride height, the exposed sidewinder ICE and electric powertrains - all those things are features.

Features are meant to complement something - in this case a "car". It's the coupe thing -that's the "car" I was looking for. When I look at it now I see a little coupe - with all these features. Before I saw a bunch of features hanging out together, but with no real identity.

Imagine seeing a muscular, well-groomed man, with a thousand-dollar pair of shoes on his silk-socked feet, a perfectly pressed shirt, "power" tie, and a Rolex on his wrist - but with no suit pants or jacket! :_paranoid :D That's what I saw when I looked at Schism. Impressive, but not quite ready for the red carpet. Now, it's like I see a guy in a suit, and start to notice all the impressive accoutrements that go with it. :cool: :) (I didn't use the example of a woman with all the accessories and no dress, for obvious -male- reasons! :unibrow:)

The beauty of following this long, crazy, design process is I have developed a more spohisticated little coupe than I ever imagined at the onset. It's sort of like the experimental, accidental, process through life that creates us. The intent is usually clear - to develop a "good" person. The journey to get there is fascinating... :cheers:

[preston]

I wish you had stuck with the smartly dressed lady instead. Much better visual.

Is LDPE Delrin or is that the UHMVW ?

What is the difference ?

[toddshotrods]

I wish you had stuck with the smartly dressed lady instead. Much better visual...
Agreed, but we wouldn't really care if she ever put the dress on and my car might never get finished! :lol:



...Is LDPE Delrin or is that the UHMVW ?

What is the difference ?
All three are different "plastics".

LDPE (http://www.mcmaster.com/#ldpe/=kkdpyk), what I used to make the temporary bushings, isn't suitable for a suspension bushing. It's slippery enough, but pretty soft, and would deform with heat and pressure. I like working with it for some things because it machines decent and can be heated and formed.

Delrin (http://www.mcmaster.com/#acetal-homopolymer-sheets/=kkdrwc) is the badazz stuff that makes great race car bushings. It's strong and can stand up to the forces a suspension bushing will "see". The down side is it will also squeak.

UHMW (http://www.mcmaster.com/#uhmw-polyethylene-sheets/=kkdrit) is somewhere in the middle. It is relatively "quiet", and also somewhat self-lubricating, so it should make a decent performance street car bushing. Time will tell...

For a while, I was leaning towards going really hardcore, with all Delrin and rod ends in the suspension, regardless of the penalty in noise and harness, but have decided to soften its edge a bit, in hopes of spending more time behind the wheel - on the street.

It's still going to be like riding a hard-tail chopper - this will hopefully be the difference between one with a hard-mounted metal pan for a seat, and one with a padded seat with the little coil springs under it. :D

More technical plastic info: http://www.mcmaster.com/#8574kac/=kkdq0p

[toddshotrods]

oops, double post

[Garage Dog 65]

http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/240.jpg



Sweet pic ! Looks real and you can see the design in this picture.

Very nice Todd !

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Jim

[toddshotrods]

Sweet pic ! Looks real and you can see the design in this picture.

Very nice Todd !

:thumbsup: :thumbsup: :thumbsup:

Jim
Thanks Jim! :D :cheers:

[toddshotrods]

We tried kinking one on a hydraulic bending and stamping machine the metalworking guy in the complex has, but it mangled one of Amanda's perfectly machined ends, so we've resorted to a good ol' pie cut. The remaining gap is intentional, to be filled with weld; and a gusset plate will be added on the inside of the bend.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/243.jpg



I was concerned that I wasn't going to like these pieces, but really do, now that I see them on the car. I wasn't so sure I was going to like the round tubing in the mix of stamped, cast, and fabricated steel parts.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/244.jpg
I have a lot of crap to stuff in that little area. Upper and lower arms, coil-overs, sway bar with links, four sprockets, two chains, jackshaft, differential, axles, cage tubes, grille, and steering! :_paranoid :unibrow:



The rest of the ribs and stringers for the roof, and the luggage bags, have been sliced and are now ready to be rendered in foam.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/245.jpg
You can see the recesses now in the backs, where they fit over the aluminum plates, that mount all the electronic components they'll hide.

The upper control arms mounts have been (plasma) cut and are in the process of being ground to shape...

[Garage Dog 65]

I don't get it, I just can't see it, can ya draw me a picture ...

You guys have way to much cool stuff to play with - just doesn't seem fair.

;) ;) ;) ;)

Jim

[toddshotrods]

I don't get it, I just can't see it, can ya draw me a picture ...

You guys have way to much cool stuff to play with - just doesn't seem fair.

;) ;) ;) ;)

Jim

Says the guy with the LS-powered, tube-chassis, Porsche in his garage! :lol:

Hey Jim! :thumbsup: I'll work on those pics. :lol:

[toddshotrods]

I'm thinking about this for a grille now. I still have to figure out if I can get the steering rack tucked behind it - after we get the upper control arms in place.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/246.jpg

I would hammerform the shell from sheet aluminum. It would make a nice teaching tool/learning process for the interns because it would incorporate CAD/CNC to design it, unroll the individual panels, cut them from flat sheet, cut a wooden buck to form the sheet metal over, actual hand fabrication to form it, and TIG welding to make it whole.

Another trick process would be to do the front panel by CAD/CNC, whittling a piece of thicker sheet down to the thickness of the other panels, with the Ford logo left embossed on it.

I have a really trick idea for incorporating my mesh grille into it, but I need to step back, wait for the suspension, and really think it through though, before investing a ton of CAD time into it.

[toddshotrods]

Grrrr! :mad: Once again, utter failure. This time something is wrong with their ShopBot. Some expert from the company came in and supposedly fine-tuned and tweaked the machine a couple days ago. The result? For me, it destroyed half of my material. Between the failed casting session and yesterday's disaster, I just lost sixteen hours that could have been spent doing client design projects, which would have paid to subcontract these parts out, and allowed me to keep my focus on design.

I am honestly ready to pack my $#!+ up and move on... :willy:

Anyway, using a couple of the failed pieces, here's a mock-up that (if you squint) will reveal the unique little couple profile I've been seeing in my head all this time. Eventually, I will realize this...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/247.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Evan, one of my most talented/faithful, interns, has been whittling away at the upper front suspension mounts. He finished the two rear brackets today, and we tacked them in place.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/248.jpg

And, he has the motor clamp almost there...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/249.jpg


We're still trying to get the CNC router table working properly, but I did manage to get eight decent-enough pieces for the luggage bags cut; and think it's stable enough to get the rest of the roof's ribs and stringers cut - if we can't find the problem soon.

[toddshotrods]

Drag radials, for the ultimate dyno sessions.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/250.jpg

Amanda milled the front upper control arm mounting plate edges straight and true.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/251.jpg


The front suspension is inching closer and closer...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/252.jpg

[XLexusTech]

:D it's not like doing a higher end show-oriented build that requires massive investments of time to accomplish small to-do items. Plus, I can't wait to beat the hell out of it! :unibrow:


Words to live by right there... :thumbsup:

[toddshotrods]

Words to live by right there... :thumbsup:

:thumbsup: Wow, a year later - oh, how I violated the first part of that statement:
:D It should go together pretty quickly...

...it's not like doing a higher end show-oriented build that requires massive investments of time to accomplish small to-do items...


As penance, the beatings will be intensified - you know, to make sure it isn't mistaken for a little cream puff. :yes:

[toddshotrods]

I have a LOT of time in designing the maze of systems in the front of this car, and just as much more left to invest in it; not to mention the time it takes to realize each ridiculous part and system I design. The concept of leaving both drivetrains, and all the suspension, exposed has been in place since earlier this summer, and is playing out beautifully - sort of a performing art type thing - like the toned, muscular, physique of an athlete's body in the tights they wear for competition; why cover it up with baggy "clothes".

The one area I have struggled to nail is the grille; mainly because it serves no real purpose other than adding an element of distinction to Schism's pretty face - lipstick. Seeing the front suspension coming, tangibly, together, and being better able to imagine all the mechanical art woven into that tiny space, it finally became apparent to me what the problem was - a real antique style grille, with a shell, and filler panel, is too much. It's out of balance. Your eyes want to feast on how it all works together, and a full grille covers that function. What's needed is the suggestion of a grille; like the horseshoe on a Bugatti Veyron. It's only function is to make it clear who is responsible for what you're about to witness.

In this case, it's my interpretation of what ol' Henry did a century ago. So, I came up with the idea of a 1913 style "grille", that is merely a CAD/CNC billet aluminum trim ring, with my coveted carbon fiber mesh insert. To test the idea, I whittled a mockup panel from a scrap piece of acrylic on the ShopBot, and used a heat gun (with weights clamped to the top and bottom) to roll it, just a touch, over a piece of PVC tubing. I used smoked acrylic to get a hint of what it might look like in carbon fiber and black anodized aluminum.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/253.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/254.jpg

IMO, it works. It's adding something to the whole, because it makes you want to investigate what's peeking through from behind it. It also seems to tie the little headlights into the bigger picture.

Now, if they could just get the ShopBot fixed so I can finish cutting my roof panels. It cuts 2D perfectly, but goes ballistic in the middle of 3D machining; seems software related...

[GregWeld]

If it was mine - I'd make a sheet metal grill ala the way you're doing it - but the holes would be round dimple die cut... and maybe in a pattern using two or three different diameters... instead of the squares. The motor is round - the tires and wheels are round - your "top" is rounded off... you have some rounded mounts going on in front etc.:D


Just my .01 worth.

[toddshotrods]

If it was mine - I'd make a sheet metal grill ala the way you're doing it - but the holes would be round dimple die cut... and maybe in a pattern using two or three different diameters... instead of the squares. The motor is round - the tires and wheels are round - your "top" is rounded off... you have some rounded mounts going on in front etc.:D


Just my .01 worth.
I'm gonna get some square wheels and tires to balance it out. :lol:

While I do like the different diameter dimple die cut panel (would be really cool on the right old hot rod - kinda seeing like a slat flats theme), I have a bug up my azz about making this mesh grille (minus the big shell):
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/art/036.jpg

I just cut the squares in the acrylic to squint and get a feel for the 1913 grille shape in mesh.

You comin' to Columbus this summer, with the '32? :yes:

[toddshotrods]

Kez was gone for a few months, finishing up her last year of school. Now that she has graduated, and caught her breath, she came out for a few hours today and reminded me just how freakin awesome she is, by doing the final fit on the upper control arm mounts. Precision. Craftsmanship.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/255.jpg

Evan did the initial cut-n-grind, then carefully sculpted these pieces to shape; Amanda and I did some manual machining on them; then Kez brought it all together - Team (Inhaler) work! :)

We just need to drill the mounting holes, finish the bore on the headlight holes and fit that piece to the frame, then chamfer the weld areas and clean them up, and this will all be ready to tack together. We are steadily inching our way towards a roller... :yes:

[toddshotrods]

Mesh time (again). :yes:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/256.jpg

Curves are a beautiful thing... :cool:

[toddshotrods]

Evan's metal sculpting and Amanda's machine work have the front suspension coming along very nicely. I'm definitely having the dad watching his baby being born moments seeing this stuff come to life. :cool:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/257.jpg


Their progress has enabled Kez to move her precision work back to the roll cage, and start stringing the front bars. This one is oh-so-close...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/258.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/259.jpg

The end goal here is a heavily triangulated roadster chassis, with dual funny car cages over the occupants - not funny car style tubes incorporated into a traditional full-body cage, real twin funny car upper cages. :yes:

[toddshotrods]

Technically, this isn't much different than the last pic I posted of the front suspension; BUT, it's a milestone because, at long last, the front upper control arm mounts are tacked in place, and officially a part of Schism's chassis! :yes:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/260.jpg

I have a few things to tackle, at once, now. I can get the team started on mounting the steering rack; I need to make temporary bushings to positively locate the lower controls arms, so we can finish those; and I can finally start on the coil-over locations and mounting.

The push is on now, to get it rolling! I simply cannot wait to see Schism roll out into the aisle, crank the wheel (remember 1.5 turns lock-to-lock!), and feel/see it change directions! :woot:

[toddshotrods]

Now begins the serious challenge of fitting all this stuff under Schism's missing bonnet. To get the ball rolling, I made CAD drawings and cut plastic sprockets to mock up the electric-drive "transmission". I knew I would, but now that I actually see it, I l-o-v-e it! :yes:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/261.jpg

That's a 20-tooth sprocket on the motor, mounted on a hub that fits the motor's splined output shaft, leading up to a 25-tooth sprocket on the outer end of the jackshaft, a 15-tooth sprocket on the inside, turning a 45-toother on the diff; 630/#60 chain. If my math is correct, that gives me a 4.25:1, single speed, reduction. That should allow both around town and highway driving, on all-electric power.

http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/262.jpg

[GregWeld]

So the electric is going to be chain drive???

[toddshotrods]

So the electric is going to be chain drive???

Yup! :yes: It has a conventional diff, that will be limited slip, but driven by chains. :unibrow: The hypothetical original build year has regressed to 1913, and my goal is to build a rabid horseless buggy. :rofl:


I like the 33, btw - I am subscribed, of course. :thumbsup:

[toddshotrods]

A little more work on the grille. I think the "shell" might be a two piece, front and back half, deal that bolts together, clamping the mesh bars between them. Each bar would have a small ball on the end, that would fit in a dimple in the shell halves. I would position and model the balls and sockets so that you can see the sandwiched ball-end bars kind of floating in the shell. The bolts that actually clamp it together would be exposed too, to match the other trim pieces (pedal pads, fuel filler, horn button, etc).
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/263.jpg

[toddshotrods]

My faithful, dedicated, talented, awesome, Team has literally whittled out a foundation for me to begin doing "my thing" - extreme design concepts. I am winding up...

At this point, I am still exploring the feasibility of what I have in mind for Schism's grille. I design in my head, and CAD is my first tool of choice to translate it; with the fringe benefit of being the next logical/best step towards making the ideas a tangible reality. I can print drawings and patterns, or cut/print directly from the CAD models.

This is the ball and socket design I see in my head. The green areas are what you would not see as that would be inside the material of the "shell". The gray flip side of those surfaces are the socket, that would be machined into each shell half. The gap between the mesh bar ball and the socket surface, are the thickness of the carbon fiber cloth. They would not actually float, they would be effectively trapped by the sockets, when the grille halves are clamped together. The visual effect is for them to appear to float though. That flat, abruptly cut off edge of the sockets is the inside edge of the grille shell. So, you would see the ball "floating" in the sockets, in kind of a cutaway, like those awesome drawings and actual sliced engines that let you see the internals.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/264.jpg

From this point, I have enough actual physical data to begin exploring machining and printing processes, to determine how feasible, or not, this idea actually is. For example, the surfaces of the sockets will require a small diameter ball-end mill, which adds substantially to the time each shell half will be on the machine; and how much hand finishing work is required to produce the desired final result. That is always a balancing act between how much the machine does, and how much the man does. Time is money. Also, this shell is supposed to be curved, swept back towards the cowl, at the top. That can be done on a 4 axis machine, from a rather substantial piece of billet, or post machine process, by actually bending the machined part; but it has to be bent precisely and perfectly or the machined part is ruined - time is money. I will eventually model the entire shell and test both routes, digitally; unless I find that the whole idea is completely unfeasible for this project. I am kind of hoping it adds-up, because what I see in my head is pretty cool, and I would like to see it in real life.

We should conduct some of the first feasibility tests this evening. I will prepare one of the ball-ended mesh bar models for 3D printing, so we can run it through the machine software and get an idea how much time we'll actually spend there. Additive manufacturing makes the most sense with complex, dense, parts so I have an idea for growing a little forest of these bars, that would be pretty cool - if it adds up. Might be a cool project to do a time-lapse video of...

[toddshotrods]

Finally getting back on track with the CAD/CNC stuff! It appears that the problem with the CNC router is the tech who came and "tweaked" the machine was a little overzealous in removing the "slop" from the stepper motors' gearboxes. Mind you, the machine was cutting with perfect accuracy, but he determined the gearboxes, especially on the X-axis, were horribly loose. As a result, the machine would appear to bang off a solid physical limit, while machining in 3D (lots of quick direction changes, and constant movement). He eventually offered that area of his professional services as a possible culprit, and suggested I shut the machine down and try to manually push it in the three axes - I had to put a LOT of effort into moving it in both X & Y axes. Then, it would let go, suddenly freewheeling. My guess is this is what was happening in machining, and the hard, audible/visible, bang against the imaginary limit was the stepper motor catching again and basically snatching it out of freewheeling - but out of position (original origin).

To test my theory, I painstakingly machined all 38 of these little slices one-by-one, limiting the machine to a small area, and at fingernail-chewing, thumb-twiddlingly slow, speeds; to allow it to remain "connected". It worked, and perfectly. Two days (twenty-nine hours of machine time) later, I walked away with the rear stringer for the rag top. :headscratch: :bang: (I didn't actually sit in front of the machine that long - I would program/setup a slice, start it, walk away, and come back later to start another...)
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/265.jpg


In the meantime, Riley, our new high school intern worked on the aluminum sheetmetal inner frame structure.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/266.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/267.jpg
These will be TIG'd into a sculptured little "angle iron" frame, and bonded into the carbon/foam/fiberglass/aluminum composite "rag top". :D


I am going to run a couple air cuts of the window frames, and if the machine has loosened up enough to stay focused, or (if not) after we re-adjust the gearboxes, I will be able to cut them, and finally assembly the rag top frame. Schism really close to making the transition from a pile of parts to an actual car.

[toddshotrods]

I was in my office working yesterday, and started hearing things clinking, and then the whir of a right angle grinder. I listened for a bit, and recognized the types and patterns of sounds I was hearing - it was Kez working on the roll cage. She just quietly popped in and got busy. It's funny that I know some of my Team by the sounds of their work. She got the left side front bar close enough to start the right side; then she'll tweak them to match.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/268.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/269.jpg

These are close enough now for me to start working the body back into the picture, which leads the way to Schism finally starting to come together as a complete car. Most of our work, up to this point, has been building the parts that make a car. Soon, we transition into combining all those parts to form an actual car.

The ShopBot failed miserably on the air cut of the window frames yesterday. It ended a whopping 7-inches away from the original origin! They need to send a tech out to fix what the last tech f'd up. :warning:

[toddshotrods]

I figured out how to trick the ShopBot into cutting the last of my foam cores, the window frames - with perfect results! This colorful collection will soon pave the way for Schism's rag top to finally become a reality. I've been drawing and rendering those rag tops for almost three years now! 61 pieces, counting one (that gets sliced up to use sections of) for the windshield that's not in this pic.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/270.jpg

The jagged edges are just because I haven't trimmed them yet. I didn't run final cutout passes to trim the bottom edges on the machine because I was purposely giving it as little opportunity as possible to screw up my cores.

[toddshotrods]

I have been working on some of Schism's aesthetic design cues, so while running errands today I decided to pop in Woodcraft and get an up-close-and-personal view of different species of exotic wood. When I'm imagining and sketching the parts, I kind of know what they should look like, but couldn't put my finger on what specific wood would work.

I found it but, typical of me, it's one of the more expensive varieties. It's called Ebony Black & White, and it's absolutely perfect for what I want. It has a *built-in* aged and weathered look that you know isn't really old - exactly the point of this whole project. I am purposely designing Schism to look like the old, buggy-style, horseless carriages, but *rendered* with modern materials and techniques.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/271.jpg


Wait'll you see what I do with a few hundred bucks worth of this stuff! :lostmarbles:

[toddshotrods]

Snipped the corners of the cowl to fit over the front cage tubes, snipped those dumb doors out, and started gluing the ribs and stringers together. There is a LOT of work left to do, before we can begin skinning it with fabric.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/272.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/273.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/274.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/275.jpg

I have a small dip to fix in the rear rib. I didn't use screws when I glued them, this time, and left them standing on end to dry - it slipped out of place a little before the glue set. Easy fix.

I'm also making changes and adjustments as I build the roof, to make the original CAD design work in reality. CAD/CNC was to develop the basic shape, and produce the critical surfaces. The goal from here on is to make it look like an artistic swipe at a rag top, that was dipped in carbon fiber and (flat or satin) clear.

[toddshotrods]

If your name is Todd Perkins, this is how you retrofit a touchscreen, digital, gauge panel into a hyperactive, artistic, interpretation of a turn-of-the-20th-century, horseless carriage - a CAD/CNC, custom, housing. :lostmarbles:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/276.jpg

The inspiration was a vintage Olds (I think) gauge panel I saw on eBay. Why buy and modify it when I can make it, right? :) Actually, I doubt it would have worked, even if the overall dimensions were close enough, because I changed the shape to conceal the digital panel.

This is will mount to the steering column, with a bracket that extends up from it. There is also a lot of detail left to add in face panel, around the touchscreen. A momentary switch, and probably a couple idiot lights, go on either side of it, and I will add some organic curves, and recess the screen a bit. I want a removable, bubbled, old-TV-style, glass cover for the touchscreen. :D

[toddshotrods]

I've been working on the pedal assembly. I'll be moving around working on different areas to make sure that I don't miss anything, or underestimate anything, in pursuit of this $500 plan. I needed to know for sure that the pedals would work with the master cylinders relocated up front. I also decided, while I was in that area, to see if the dual-function throttle pedal idea was going to work; even though I won't have electric power right away.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/277.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/278.jpg

Yup and yup! :thumbsup: I have a lot of work to do to adjust the height and spacing of the pedals, but I can't really do that until the seats are actually in place and the floorboard is in. In this tight space, driver position means everything for exactly where components are located, as there's almost no such thing as repositioning one's self. Making adjustments is a simple matter of bending and/or cutting and welding the levers. The brake and clutch pedals also have a lot of adjustment in position with the push rods - they're actually at the end of their adjustments, back about an inch too far, in these pics.

I am going to lower the throttle pedal. The stirrup is supposed to be just off the floor. The reason it's so high here is I changed the design. It was supposed to be longer, but when I started working out the design for it I realized that if the pivot point was too high on my foot the motion was unnatural. The original design had the pivot point in the ball of the foot, but we actually pivot at the ankle.

Hold your leg straight out, toes pointed up, and put your heel on a thin edge, then point your toes forward - natural motion. Now, point your toes up and put the arch of your foot on the edge, and point your toes forward, rocking around that edge - unnatural; you have to actually lift the heel off your foot, and you should feel muscles working that didn't the first time. I actually want a tiny bit of resistance, so that summoning the electric drive requires a purposed effort. If the pivot was all the way at the bottom it would be too easy to ride around draining the batteries, with the electric drive working when it shouldn't be - like a highway jaunt, where your muscles tend to get a little fatigued and mind a little lazy.

I worked pretty much blindly, off my new design and instinct, making patterns, cutting, forming, grinding, welding, and grinding, steel, all day yesterday (still have more grinding to do...:rolleyes: ). I didn't stop until it was in the car - then I walked away from it. Today, I contorted myself under the fragile foam roof framework, and into position and put my foot in the stirrup.

First impression, it's surprising how natural the stirrup feels. Secondly, the pivot point is perfect. :) I had to try to hold the unbolted assembly still but both motions are very natural. The only stress on my body was from being doubled over trying to hold the assembly while working the pedal. I think after a couple hundred miles this will be completely intuitive, and a helluva lot of fun! :D

[toddshotrods]

I finally have the pedal assembly far enough along to move on to the dash bar. I lowered the throttle pedal (cut-weld-grind), adjusted the spacing on the clutch and brake pedals (hammerformed), and shortened the push rods, so the brake and clutch pedals are pretty much in place now. I have to get an 8mm die to thread the clutch rod a little deeper, and need to buy or fabricate a new push rod for the brake, with a high-misalignment pivot ball - it works but has a little bind in it where the current ball hits its limit. The clutch pedal is a little under an inch from the firewall at the end of its travel, and the brake will be about the same. I still need to finish grinding the welds on the stirrup then, someday, invest countless hours to grind all these parts into artwork. :bang: :lol:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/279.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/280.jpg


I contorted into position and took them for a test drive again, and it's really nice now. Narrow driving shoes will be mandatory for when things get serious. My Nike sneakers' wide soles require a little thought and effort to hit one pedal at a time, but comfort and practicality are not Schism's forte.

Next I start on the dash bar, to set the stage for the steering. If Kez is able to make it in tomorrow, to finish the right side cage front bar, I will get started on the dash bar. If not, I will finish the front bar, and hopefully get to the dash bar by the weekend.

[toddshotrods]

Moving forward to the dash bar and steering, I stuck the Honda steering column in the car to get an idea of how it's going to fit and mount. It's stripped down to just the steel underpinnings, and is being used to capitalize on Honda's height adjustment mechanism, which I always liked.

It became painfully obvious, really quickly, that the 13.5" steering wheel just wasn't going to work. In fact, I don't even think a 12" wheel would fit, so I am not going to waste my time making a mock-up, or money buying one. I did some parts shuffling, and swapped the 13.5" wheel into the Model E, and it's little 10" wheel to Schism. The funny thing is I purchased the 10" for just this reason - in the initial mock-ups of that car I knew I couldn't fit anything larger. Now, Model E has grown, and Schism has shrunk and the wheels needed to be swapped. That was a purposed thing. I have purposely been removing as much of "me" from the Model E as possible, over the last year, and that 10" wheel was 100% Todd.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/281.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/282.jpg



With that wheel, I am also reclaiming my chunk of Maple burl, and resuming the process of making that steering wheel. It's actually going to be even better on Schism, because I am not trying to incorporate hidden control buttons in it. I have a perfect little piece of 6061 bar stock to carve a hub, will machine spokes on the ShopBot, and get Curt to TIG it all together for me. The hub is going to be a ball and stem to match the shifter, e-brake handle, and planned switch knobs.

I just have to come up with a plan to make the Maple burl work with the Ebony Black & White accents I have. I'm thinking Ebony B&W inlays in the burled rim, and then maybe some burl inlays in the Ebony pieces that will follow, but I'm not set on anything yet.

More on the rim and hub coming. The CAD madness is about to happen, and I will resume machining the burl rim soon, but the actual hub, spokes, and weld-up, may be a little further down the road. I am mainly trying to lay the ground work, so I can set the steering column accordingly. I also want the rim to be cut and settled long before the rest of the wheel is finalized and cut, so I can make any necessary adjustments to suit how it chooses to end up.

An update on that process, for this site: the block is machined a little and allowed to settle. The newly exposed wood gets time to acclimate itself to the environment, re-balancing the moisture content. If it's done correctly, it won't fracture into a bunch of worthless scrap wood. When the final machining has been completed, the rim will be allowed to sit for a while, in a fixture, but could actually change shape a bit. That's fine with me, because it would add to the vintage "flavor". The hub will be designed, machined, and fabricated to match the rim. Normally, over time, the rim would change shape and the support structure would prevent it from moving freely, causing the large cracks and chunking you see a lot with antique wheels.

The ten-inch wheel is an absolute necessity to fit in Schism's impossibly restricted interior. I was able to contort my way in again and it feels perfect. It kind of completes the ridiculous feel of the car, from the driver's seat, and should be quite an experience with 1-1/2 turns lock to lock - can you say overgrown kart?! :lol:

[toddshotrods]

Getting the basic direction roughed in.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/283.jpg

There is a lot more detail to come in the rim, where the spokes land. I have a few ideas, and haven't decided which route I'm going yet. That is where I think the Black & White Ebony inlays will be...

The aluminum rim section, and spokes would be CAD/CNC, the hub would be lathe-turned, and everything would be TIG'd together. A Wilwood quick disconnect hub would be machined, for aesthetics, and welded to the base of the hub.

The main point here is to develop the overall dimensions, and process I intend to follow, so I can have the steering column set to accommodate this wheel. I hope to be able to simply pop it on in place of the Grant, when it's ready.

[toddshotrods]

Back to work, machining the steering wheel rim. Machine a little, let it sit, machine a little, let it sit... Hopefully, at the end of the process, I won't have a floor full of cute little Maple Burl chunks. :lol:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/284.jpg



I cut the original dash out of the body today, so I could get my dash taped in place.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/285.jpg



This old foam plug is pretty beat up but I think the original models and CAM files are locked up or lost in my coffee-saturated external hard drive. I may have to protect this with my life, and fix it up.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/286.jpg




This is all in preparation for doing the dash bar. It's cut and sectioned because parts of how it's going together might be extremely difficult/impossible to do on a bender, and because I had the old roll cage main hoop just sitting here, doing nothing, with the perfect curves in it. Chamfered and plug welded, with inserts at the joints, it should be okay.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/287.jpg



I was inside again, for another "test drive". It is soooo tight in there! Making everything clear and work is going to be one helluva challenge, but I think I'm up for it. The first casualty might be the Honda steering column. That adjuster will interfere with the clutch work, as it is. I also cut the opening for the shaft in the firewall way oversize, to give myself room to experiment. I am going to give it a try before tucking my tail and stringing a plain piece of tubing through there. :D

[toddshotrods]

Almost there on the steering wheel rim. I have some decisions to make on some of the finishing touches, but I have the critical stuff ready so the machining can proceed on a regular schedule. I had to know the shape of the landing areas for the spokes, as the block will be ready to start hogging out material between them soon. I also needed to figure out how I want the Black & White Ebony inlays as I assume it would be better to do that when there is as much material as possible. My designer/metal fabricator's method of doing an inlay will be to machine a pocket and a plug and stuff it in there!
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/288.jpg

I fattened the rim up a bit and ,obviously, pulled the spokes out to the other side of the rim. What I'm thinking is to trap the rim between the spokes and the aluminum rim. It will be snugly trapped, but never actually torqued down. I plan to use silicone rubber gaskets between the spoke and the wood, to give it a bit of wiggle room, without having a wiggly wheel. :lol: I modeled the gap in for that.

I airbrushed the worst offenders out, in Photoshop, but didn't get too carried away so you'll have to imagine continuity in the surfaces where it doesn't exist, here. There shouldn't be any abrupt changes in texture, except where the Maple burl and Ebony hardwoods meet. Where it's open on the back side of the landing will eventually be aluminum extending in from the aluminum rim section, with some type of fastener boss in it. I haven't decided what and how the fasteners will be yet.

I've been modeling almost non-stop since 10am... :confused59: :lostmarbles: :relax:

[toddshotrods]

Posting the CAD rendering of the grille bar socket again, as some of the design cues are beginning to reverberate now. I waited a year to get to "my part" of this project - design; especially CAD. Eventually, I probably should contract a traditional automotive artist to visually bring all this stuff together and show what the "finished" vehicle will look like. I can do decent art, but prefer to spend my time actually developing actual parts and systems, and vehicles; and really just use it to communicate.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/264.jpg

I can't wait to share the some of the details, like the grille shell, an artistic swipe on the winged "cap" and motor meter, and the textures and finishes that will ice this little cake...

[toddshotrods]

Gauge panel is ready to cut a mock-up unit. I need it to finish the layout of the steering, pedals, shifter, etc. One, I need to verify that it's going to fit where I am planning to put it. Two, I need to make sure I will be able to read it in a glance.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/289.jpg


I think the front is going to be CAD/CNC, cut from aluminum or brass billet - depending on what final finish I decide to go with. The rear cover will probably be carbon fiber. If so, the foam core I cut for the mock-up might also serve as a plug for creating a mold.

The elliptical bubbled glass lenses on either side of the digital screen are for warning lights. They will be split into two or three sections, internally, and have the appropriate color LED bulb for the designated warning signal. Turn signals, high beam, probably an electric drive "powered-up" light, etc.



After couple butt sessions in the car, I have come to the conclusion that I don't like the shifter in its current location. I thought about simply moving it over, into the passenger space a bit, but don't like that idea. I decided to research doing paddle shifters, with an electronic control box that would signal stepper motors to push and pull the shifter cables. A quick discussion with a friend in the community workshop, who recommended one of two other members, and it started to feel like one of their typical design-by-committee situations, with all the requisite opinions and preferences, ready to happen.

No way. Not for me, on my car. So, I did more research and found a way to control stepper motors manually with an encoder and a small circuit board - the stepper motor follows the encoder. I am 75% sure I am going for it. My current thinking is that the paddle shifters (right side = upshift, left side - down shift) will turn two encoders, via a ratchet mechanism, controlling two stepper motors, one for each cable. A simple arm on each stepper motor to push or pull the cable. Mix, try, adjust as necessary.

The "paddle shifters" themselves will be shift levers with matching ball knobs. That assembly will mount to what appears to be a separate shaft, just above the steering shaft, for that really old school three-on-the-tree look; with two levers. If what I have in my head works out, that shift column will be the Honda steering column, and height adjuster. By mounting it over the steering column it should push the adjuster far enough above the clutch pedal to not interfere with it. Should.

[toddshotrods]

Yesterday I cut the foam housing core, and today, I cut the bezel. This is actually a test piece, cut from a couple glued-up pieces of .500" particle board, but it turned out so well, I may use it as a casting plug. There's an investment casting class spread over the next two Saturdays and the guy was going to take another shot at my bike's headlight for a demonstration piece. I am going to ask him about doing this piece instead of, or along with, the headlight housing. If that fails, I might just machine it from billet aluminum or brass.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/290.jpg

The small gouge was my biggest error of the day. I have been fighting a huge migraine all day, and keeping my focus was challenging to say the least. I was trying to make sure the machine was still zeroed, after another dumb mistake, and somehow got the Z axis origin off. I was trying to sit the end mill over a hole, stop the machine, and manually lower the end mill into the hole to check the origin. It lowered and plowed straight in to the bezel before I could get my fuzzy head to hit the stop button. Good thing it was particle board or my 0.0625" end mill would have been toast! Easy fix...

http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/291.jpg


It's going to mount to a custom little pedestal mount, based on what was going to be a gate plate for the electric drive system switches. Those levers are now destined to be part the column shifter, so I'll figure out something else for the electric drive switches. This will sit in a little cradle mount that swoops down off the dash bar. The dual pivots will allow me to point it at my eyes, and also towards a sexy little "navigator's" eyes, when I'm busy trying to keep the car aimed in the right direction. A new dash is in the works...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/292.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I wanted more room inside the housing for the digital panel, so I cut a .500" ring today, and glued it on. It also eliminated the need for me to machine foam out to fit the two pieces together.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/293.jpg


I showed the bezel to the casting guy today and he's up for trying an investment casting of it. His class is two sessions, so we'll make the plaster mold this Saturday. Over the next week it will air cure and then be fired in time for pouring the molten metal next Saturday.

Wait 'til you see the metal we pour... :)

Caveat - I hope it's a successful casting... :lol:

[GregWeld]

Phenomenal steering wheel! I have to say though -- that's a LOT of leverage to put on that one connection point.... I dunno about that... Looks awesome!

[GregWeld]

BTW -- I just went back and looked at the wheel with the three points of contact and I personally think it looks every bit as killer as the one point. It's a fantastic design.

[toddshotrods]

Phenomenal steering wheel! I have to say though -- that's a LOT of leverage to put on that one connection point.... I dunno about that... Looks awesome!

Hey Greg! Thanks! :thumbsup:

I had to go back and look at the rendering to see what you meant - it'll have three spokes. I'm modeling, so just do one at 12 o'clock, duplicate it two more times when it's done, and rotate 'em all into place.

Thanks again. :D

[GregWeld]

Ah ha -- well the post did say "spokes" but there was the earlier post showing three --- and then this one with just the one spoke and I thought -- oh man -- that's a beautiful design but that wood is going to crack big time!

[toddshotrods]

BTW -- I just went back and looked at the wheel with the three points of contact and I personally think it looks every bit as killer as the one point. It's a fantastic design.

:thankyou: You made my night Greg, I need a beer now. :cheers:

[toddshotrods]

:relax: ...that's a beautiful design but that wood is going to crack big time!

It's still going to be fun to see if I can get the rim machined without it busting up into a hundred little pieces. :lmao: I have a friend in England who has a degree in woodworking, used to teach it, and makes incredible formed, carved, and bent, furniture. He's guiding the process of whittling that rim out, but makes it clear every step of the way that there is simply no guarantee.

So far, so incredibly good though...

Only one way to find out, and I only get to ride this merry-go-round once. :relax:

[toddshotrods]

The electro-mechanical column shifter design is coming along quite well. I have the basics of how the mechanical system will ratchet, and turn the encoders to the proper degree for each gear, sorted out. As per my normal design process, I did all that in my head, with the assistance of a lot of chicken scratch sketching, and have now started modeling the ratchet and pawls, then the gears, then the housing - yes, I plan to design and make almost every piece (except for fasteners, etc)! It's going to mount right on top of the steering column, and have a clear cover, like a watch face, so you can see the mechanical commotion inside. Hmmm, I'd better make sure people can actually see it way down there, and under that impossibly low roof.

The goal is for it to feel sort of like cycling the bolt, or pulling the trigger, on a really expensive rifle when you pull the "paddles". Beside the mechanics to get the encoders to turn to the right positions, that's what all the design process has been about. Mostly all metal components inside, directly connected to your finger tips, and very smooth distinctive action, with well defined releases, catches, and stops. When you first pull, you'll feel it release the pawl for that direction, then feel yourself winding all the gears up to speed, then just as it begins to gain momentum, and inertia begins to take over, the pawl reconnects and brings it all to a dead stop - gear engaged! All that happens in about seven degrees of rotation for the shifter and ratchet/pawl, but there is a flurry of activity throughout the rest of the assembly.

I need to develop a feedback loop, to interrupt the encoder's signal to the steppers, if the transmission doesn't go in gear. My first thought is simply sensing the resistance - what happens when a CNC machine encounters something it can't move - the program crashes - but less code, and more simple electrical circuit. I think...

[toddshotrods]

With enough patience, one can machine aluminum with a CNC router. I re-cut the center of the old gate plate to create a mount for the gauge panel. This machine is still having issues (big gouge in the center of the side) but this piece will work. It broke my end mill though. :warning: I purposely left room to hand finish it, so I'll blend that out in the process. I'm going to make a little pedestal mount to fit in the center that the gauge panel will sit on.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/294.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Preliminary round of finishing work on the mount. I can't really finish it until I get the pedestal piece designed, machined, and fabricated, but I needed it smoothed out a bit so I can think through what I want it to look like.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/295.jpg

http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/296.jpg
I think it' going to be a ball on a stick, that will protrude through round openings on the sides of the housing a little. I think this base is going to mount to a steel hemisphere, on a ridiculous steel bracket that swoops out from the dash bar of the cage. The clamping mechanism will be a lever under the bottom of the hemisphere. Simple. :lol:

In keeping with the 1913 Open Runabout theme, I am foregoing a regular dash (even that panel I made will be replaced with less "dash"), and concentrating on highlighting all the levers, and pedals, and switches, that consumed early Ferd interiors. The challenge is to make it all speak the same language, and communicate a specific message. In this case that message is something like "coach-built, antique, driver's car".

[toddshotrods]

To make good use of that massive-little curved I-beam armrest, since the shifter is moving up to the steering column (where I can actually reach it), I am fabricating a Todd style "big red button", emergency kill switch.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/297.jpg

It turns out to be the perfect location, and a very natural action. It's main components are the recycled former shift knob and horn button. The big heavy knob should mean less chance of missing it, and have the ability to tolerate any excessive force exerted in an emergency situation. It will manually disconnect the high voltage traction pack for the electric drive, via a cable and rear mounted switch; and most likely simultaneously disconnect the 12volt source to the ICE ignition system.

The inset photochop is one possible finishing idea - dark red anodized knob, with a black anodized bezel.

[toddshotrods]

The pedestal design was quick and easy as it was just a quick sweep from the geometric cross pattern in the mount up into a spindle for the pivot ball. Now, I have to decide whether I want to machine it or cast it. Either way, there will be a machined mock-up or plug coming soon.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/298.jpg


http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/299.jpg
This little assembly is going to be a smorgasbord of textures and finishes. This isn't the final decision, just one of hundreds of possibilities. Here, I have a steel lower enclosure, aluminum base plate, nickel-plated pedestal, aluminum pivot-ball receptacles inside a carbon fiber housing, with a brushed aluminum-bronze bezel - whew! :willy: It's conditional, first, upon whether the aluminum-bronze casting works and/or possibly an aluminum-bronze cast plate for me to machine one. The carbon fiber housing is going to be produced with a special, proprietary, process/technique that I am working on. First tests were positive, and it's very unique.

Although I am going to great lengths to develop the aesthetic side of things, everything actually has a serious purpose. The main point, of course, is to benignly graft a digital gauge panel into an "antique" atmosphere. The elaborate pivot ball.pedestal mount will allow one-handed adjustment, to get that screen focused towards the driver's eyes. It can be angled, titled, and rotated, with one hand, and locked in place. The steel hemispherical lower enclosure will be a part of the clamping mechanism, and will also hide the plugs for connecting/syncing to the digital gauge panel.

[toddshotrods]

I planed another .250" off the block, and opened the center hole to 4.5" (actually about .125" over that, off the machine - same as the last time). So far, it has been remarkably stable. One more of these operations, and I begin routing the pockets out between the spokes. This was a great camera shot that really brings out the grain. I can use it to begin plotting what three sections I want capture in the spoke landings.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/300.jpg

[toddshotrods]

This is my chicken scratch overview of the interior. I'm using it to sort out the layout. This is a critical step in the transformation of Schism, from a bunch of handcrafted parts to a functional vehicle. What good is a functional vehicle that is uninspiring or, at worst, unbearable, to experience? That's one of the things that people take for granted, and that a person customizing a preexisting vehicle doesn't have to put so much effort into. I am developing a totally unique driving experience, so I am putting a lot of work and thought into what it will be.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/301.jpg

This isn't intended to be "proper" art, it's a tool to accomplish an end. I draw, design parts, sit in the car, imagine it in use, repeat, repeat.

It's all driver, like a race car. There's room for a small passenger, but no room for comfort. The little 10" steering wheel falls right into my "lap", and the gauge panel will be just within reach of my right hand, as all the switches will also be in that assembly. Everything, from the 1.5 turn lock-to-lock steering, to the short travel/close proximity pedals, to the sequential column shifters, to the "floating" little command/information center, must deliver maximum effectiveness with minimal effort. One, because there isn't enough room to move around; and two, because once I am cinched down in the 5-pt harnesses, I won't be able to move much anyway. It's also all designed with the ultimate goal of 1:1 power-to-weight in mind, so that when it, inevitably, gets out of control the atmosphere in the "cockpit" will be as serene as possible.

[toddshotrods]

Tomorrow the casting guy gives the gauge panel bezel a shot. As mentioned, he said the investment mold came out nice (I haven't seen it yet), so it's just a matter of getting the molten aluminum bronze to fill it completely...

In case he's really in the mood to pour lots of molten metal, I cut the pedestal today. It came out so nice it deserves to be investment cast too, but a simple sand cast would work because it's (purposely) a tiny bit over-sized so I can hand fit the two pieces together.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/302.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/303.jpg

[toddshotrods]

No luck again with the casting session. :bang: The reason I have been trying to machine plugs and cast them in aluminum is to demonstrate the capabilities of the Columbus Idea Foundry (CIF). That's a part of my deal with Alex. I get unlimited use of the facilities and equipment, in exchange for demonstrating and marketing the services and capabilities of the place. I'm going to have to bypass metal casting for a while until they get some of the bugs worked out of their system. I could simply machine the parts, but they don't have a conventional CNC mill in house and, while technically possible, machining most of my parts, from aluminum, on the ShopBot CNC router table isn't exactly feasible. Even if I can manage to get the parts off the machine, it's probably not something a person paying for machine time could justify...

Anyway, the bezel plug survived the water-based clay investment mold process with minimal damage. I repaired that, and have begun coating it with multiple layers of acrylic paint. The plan is to really detail the external surface, in preparation for some type of casting process. I could actually do a metallic-powder-filled resin cast of that part, and meet all the technical and aesthetic requirements; so, I am finishing it with that process in mind, but still exploring options. That would be something that can be replicated in-house at CIF, using the ShopBot, and their little bell jar vacuum chamber to degas the silicone rubber mix, for a good mold...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/304.jpg
I'm more inclined to just cut the pedestal on the ShopBot as it's a small part that I don't want to take a chance on. A resin casting of that part could get too warm and go limp or break in the middle of driving... :lol:




After spending some time in the seat, trying to imagine driving Schism - and especially with the type of power I'm seeking - the gauge panel has evolved into a command/information center. Since moving will be difficult, and nearly impossible in the 5pt harness, I need all switches and controls at my fingertips. The most logical location for the switches is in the gauge panel.

This CAD rough sketch: shows the recesses for the three main switches (there will be more, kind of hidden), with the engine start button recessed deeper and slightly behind the main ignition switch location. I didn't go into detail with the CAD model because this will be mostly hand fabrication. The model was just to develop a few hard numbers to guide that process.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/305.jpg



First step was to attempt to seamlessly integrate a Honda S2000 engine start button into the antique panel. The ingredients:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/306.jpg
The button is internally illuminated, though I'm not sure if the whole button glows red or just the text. If it doesn't, and if I don't like it as-is, I will eventually eventually cast a new button in red-tinted, clear, resin.


After a little manual mill work:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/307.jpg


To accomplish this:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/308.jpg


I didn't go for a super precise fit, as this is a chrome plated plastic switch in a steel housing. I hate buzzing and rattling, so I plan to mount it with black RTV, to keep it quiet. The steel is cut slightly oversize, and does not adhere rigidly to the shape of the button, for this reason; and to allow for final finishing (paint, powder coat, plating, etc). The two notches are the key, as they orient the switch, and a little bumper on the back engages the OEM spring.

[toddshotrods]

I cut a foam mock-up of the steel base. I needed that to verify the dimensions for the next step in machining, which was to cut the diameter down, leaving a small section on the outside edge for the lip. The rest will be hand shaped. I'll probably also make a pattern off the foam mock-up base to mark the actual steel hemisphere for cutting the recesses.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/309.jpg

[Todd in vancouver]

Incredible work and is truly art in motion. Subscribed and thanks for sharing your skills with all of us, it's very inspirational and motivating.

Your name rocks BTW :thumbsup:

[toddshotrods]

Incredible work and is truly art in motion. Subscribed and thanks for sharing your skills with all of us, it's very inspirational and motivating...
Wow, thanks! :cheers: Those are encouraging words - helps one keep going through the inevitable burnout phases. :thumbsup:

I think I'm having fun now... :D



...Your name rocks BTW :thumbsup:
I could say the same about you! :lol: :thumbsup:

[toddshotrods]

I kind of reluctantly entered my CAD workshop today, to resume work on the grille. The reluctance is because this is the kind of stuff I love doing, and hours, then days, have a way of disappearing while I'm in there. The ball-n-socket bar mounts are finished, and the bar cores can now be produced. I decided to machine them. When the ShopBot is working properly, I am able to get the accuracy I need and these will be cut from plastic, then laminated with carbon fiber, so I can keep the feed rates reasonable enough to not be on the machine forever.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/310.jpg

The reason I am bouncing around so much is to get all the major parts sorted out and underway, so that as the car goes together there won't be anything that completely stops progress in its tracks. As I work on assembling the car, I am able to identify the needs for each area, step back and address them, then move forward a few more steps toward a roller. No matter how much planning you do, some things just can't be determined until the car becomes more of a tangible reality; like sitting in the driver's seat and thinking through actually driving a car that has never existed before. It's a really fun, rewarding, process.

Next up, the grille shell. That's where the time-space warp can occur. I'm tying a rope to my ankle; if you don't hear from me - pull... :lol:

I think the shell is also going to be cut in plastic, and then cast in aluminum, then plated. The smallest radiuses in the sockets will require an 1/8th" ball-end mill, which means it's going to take a while to cut, even in softer materials. If necessary, I'll split it into four sections (for each half, eight total) and glue them together. First I'll try separating the socket machining operations from the rest of the shell, and tricking the ShopBot into getting the job done quickly. Again, the point is to try to develop processes Columbus Idea Foundry members can use, with the available equipment; and help market its offerings and capabilities.

Holds nose, and jumps... :willy:

[toddshotrods]

Coming up for air... the basic shape has been sorted out - now it's time for details!
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/311.jpg

I have to cut all the socket openings (they're in there, ready to shine), add the lower mounts, and then begin sculpting the wings for the top mount. I cannot wait to share my Todd vision for the wings and motor meter.

I might have to rethink my original plan for bolting the front and rear halves together. It was supposed to have lots of bolts in counterbored holes, running around the shell; but I don't think I want to break up the shape now. I'm thinking about having fewer, exposed, external, bolt bosses on the inside between some of the sockets. I was also supposed to bend the whole deal, but I am going to try it straight first.

Don't let the CAD model fool you either, this thing is tiny. It's only 15-1/2" tall, and 1-1/2" deep.

[toddshotrods]

I taught a welding class today and my intention, afterwards, was to go out for a little R-n-R. I decided to eat first, to finally sit for a few minutes, and then opened Rhino... Needless to say, I never went out, but I did get the socket openings cut. :rolleyes: :D
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/312.jpg

[GregWeld]

I've never seen so much work on one car.... Love how it's coming together.

[toddshotrods]

I've never seen so much work on one car.... Love how it's coming together.
:thankyou: Greg! :cheers:

I'm using this opportunity to run freely in creative design to simultaneously redefine the term "OCD"! :willy: :rofl:

[droptop73]

[QUOTE=toddshotrods;452615]We tried kinking one on a hydraulic bending and stamping machine the metalworking guy in the complex has, but it mangled one of Amanda's perfectly machined ends, so we've resorted to a good ol' pie cut. The remaining gap is intentional, to be filled with weld; and a gusset plate will be added on the inside of the bend.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/243.jpg



I was concerned that I wasn't going to like these pieces, but really do, now that I see them on the car. I wasn't so sure I was going to like the round tubing in the mix of stamped, cast, and fabricated steel parts.

[QUOTE]

Just a thought... why not make these control arm struts using the I-beam style construction like the (former) shifter mount? That could be a more graceful shape, match the look of the LCA and fit the overall design theme.

[toddshotrods]

...Just a thought... why not make these control arm struts using the I-beam style construction like the (former) shifter mount? That could be a more graceful shape, match the look of the LCA and fit the overall design theme.
Hey droptop! Thanks, I did consider a fabricated strut, either I-beam like the lowers or boxed sheet metal like the uppers (will ultimately be), and haven't ruled it out. I am curious to see if I can make the tubular struts look right. Basically, just challenging myself. If it doesn't work, I will tuck my tail, and start fabricating... :lol:

Some things on this project are hard to communicate as there was never a comprehensive set of art renderings. Being the owner and builder, I can see everything in my head clearly, so I just do enough art to communicate job tasks to the Team members, and verify some ideas before investing tons of time in them. Most are just byproducts of working so much in CAD. The goal for those tubular struts is to add enough gusseting and blending that they begin to take on the cast look, but still tie into the caged race theme thing.

Again, that's the bright idea - if it doesn't work, I'll be the chump with the tail stuck up his... :walkingdog: :rofl:

[toddshotrods]

Time to spread my wings. :)
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/313.jpg

The plan is to have the shell ready to cut a test/mock-up piece this week. I need it on the actual car to develop the hard numbers for modeling the wings and motor meter.

[droptop73]

I understand how the mind's eye thing works. I have a warehouse full of projects and ideas stored in the back of my mind with the mothballs, waiting for time and budget.

[toddshotrods]

Almost done with the shell! I have a little clean up work to do on the back of each half, around the sockets, but it's pretty much there. I ran it through the programming software and the machine times are reasonable with a 0.125" ball end mill, so cutting the plugs will work as intended. The funny thing about this is it's probably the only part on the entire car that has no functional aspect, but I have an incredible amount of time invested in it, with a longgg way to go. Along with what's left of the T-bucket body, it's the signature piece that identifies the car (also identifying the specific vintage), so it's critical to helping all those other functional parts come together aesthetically, as a sum, a whole, a car... :rolleyes: :lostmarbles:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/314.jpg

I decided on four, large, heavily stylized,bolt bosses to clamp it together; and had a little fun with the upper mesh bars, bending them around the bosses. Those will probably have to be printed, as they have too many angles to machine (possible, but not practical). If the bolt bosses look huge to you, remember how tiny the whole thing is, and the fact that it's between your knees and ankles on the car.

http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/315.jpg


Today, I am cutting wood mock-ups of the front and back halves of the shell - without the sockets - to test it on the car, and develop the hard numbers for the wings and motor meter.

[toddshotrods]

I still need to do some minor trimming and need socket head bolts for it, but a few strips of tape allow a peek at Schism's new mug.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/316.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/317.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/318.jpg

Told you it was tiny! It's almost lost in the midst of all the electric drive stuff - just enough to give a clue what you're looking at.

[toddshotrods]

Roll Royce Wraith concept "Spirit of Ecstasy" - Inspiration.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/misc/004.jpg

Goal: not quite so ethereal, but not "normal" either - whatever that word means.



I can't believe how much time I have in this piece already! I have been working on it, almost none stop, since around 10 o'clock this morning! Plus, all the other days I worked on it...

Meet the "Spirit of OCD" :lostmarbles:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/319.jpg

This piece actually does have a function - it is the grossly over-done upper "radiator support", for the grille that has no real function. :rolleyes:

One, this is just a rough-in. From here I have to decide how much detail and precision I want to put in the model, and how much I want to do by hand. I could actually cut this, as is, and do all the detailing by hand, as most of what needs work are places where material would be removed.

Two, keep in mind it's really tiny. Overall dimensions of the "bird" are about 5.625" long, 2" tall, and 3.5" wide. It could fit in the palm of a man's hand. The Bat-T logo "motor meter" is around 1.375" in diameter. It will be interesting to see if people even notice it on first glance, in midst of the electric drive's chains, sprockets, and diff; and all the exposed, sculptured, suspension stuff. I planned it to be one of the things, with incredible attention to detail, you "find" in the midst of all the other OCD things. :willy:

The hood(less) molding will sweep back to the cowl, with a slight curve and tapering to kind of a pointer type point; and will be inset into the body. I'm working on plans and processes to machine that, including the Bat-T logo in the end, on the ShopBot from aluminum bar stock. There's a neat texturing featuring that I would like to use in the background areas around, and inside, the "T", so that when it's plated the T pops out.

I am also debating finishes. Both pieces will be plated, and slightly contrasting. Maybe something like brushed and polished nickel - plus, the grille shell will be plated or anodized, so all this has to work together.

[toddshotrods]

I decided to just add a couple feature lines in the wings, to add a little motion to it, and the boss/counter bore for the motor meter mounting bolt, and do the rest of the detail work by hand. I need to see it on the car to determine just how much detail I want in it. I'm going to cut it tomorrow, or early next week.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/320.jpg

The larger the end mill the less detailed the feature lines will be. I don't really want a lot, just a subtle hint; and I'll blend the edges a bit by hand, after I see it cut.

[rtwind]

Impressive Thread!

[toddshotrods]

Impressive Thread!

:thankyou: rtwind!

For nearly a year, I've been wrestling with the decision on whether Schism is a race car with the attention to detail normally seen in fine art, or a fully functional artistic depiction of a race car. Subtle difference, but it has huge implications on how all these parts come together, and how far we ultimately go with each one of them.

I am leaning really heavily towards the insanely detailed race car. :yes: Curt, my engine guy, and I were discussing this last night over beers. I've been kind of migrating that way since I started assembling it, as that's just what it feels like it wants to be, when it grows up. :lol: The final straw that is really pushing it in that direction is I finally made some creative breakthroughs with my electric motorcycle project that will allow it to carry more of the art burden, freeing Schism to follow its own course.

Put in music/movie terms, the theme song in its trailer seems to feature an overdriven Stratocaster blazing through a stack of Marshalls...:rockin:

[toddshotrods]

I epoxied a couple pieces of modeling board together...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/321.jpg

...and started whittling;
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/322.jpg

until I ended up with this:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/323.jpg

The broken wing tips are because I live in CAD, and forget sometimes that what is possible in my world is not always feasible here on Earth. :lostmarbles: They were quite literally paper thin, and couldn't stand up to the violence and terror of a carbide end mill spinning at 1y0K. I had the ShopBot running really gentle and slow too, but the just blew away into the piles of chips; literally. I will round them off, by hand, from where they are.

You might also have noticed that the feature lines in the wings are just very lightly cut. I chose a 0.375" ball end mill that gave me all the detail I needed in the whole piece, but wouldn't sink into these too deep. From here, I will experiment, by hand, using the cuts as templates until I find what I'm looking for.

As mentioned, it's tiny and can be easily lost against the busy backdrop of drivetrain components.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/324.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/325.jpg

A strip of wood gives a clue of how the molding, along with the front cage tubes, will create the image of a hood; when there is none. This is the first time I've ever done a project like this. Normally I would start with a hood and concentrate on eliminating everything possible to make sure all you see are its lines. With Schism, it's the exact opposite - I have to keep strategically adding things until it paints the right picture. Now that I'm getting used to it, it's kind of natural because it's like drawing. The right lines, here and there, and the mind starts to see curves and reflections, and three-dimensional shapes that aren't on the paper.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/326.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I cut the motor meter/hood trim piece yesterday, but was too sleepy to post it by the time I finished (late last night). The process I would like to pursue for realizing all these little parts is pretty intense, but it will yield awesome results. After the plugs are detailed and finished, I want to make silicone rubber molds of them, then cast them in wax, for lost wax metal casting.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/327.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/328.jpg


I still need to create the recess in the firewall that will let the back drop into place, and the motor meter to fit into the wings properly. I cut the motor meter section from modeling board, and the trim section from a piece of oak wood. I wanted the surface quality the modeling board provides for the motor meter and the toughness the oak provides for the long, thin, trim piece; so I can work on it and test fit as much as needed, without concern of breaking it. It was also good practice in machining wood for the steering wheel.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/329.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I have been working on this piece over the past week. The point is to countersink the hood molding into the cowl. I just did a step or two here and there around other work. First the model, then cut a plug from a scrap piece of oak, paint it, a few coats of mold release, then carbon fiber (because it makes a thinner, stronger part).
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/330.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/331.jpg


Next, the cowl will be cut, and the piece will be bonded in.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/332.jpg

I started a new project, a little rat rod speedster, because I really want to go for the limit with Schism and needed something else to play with to keep me from getting off track trying to meet unnecessary deadlines. With that in mind, I view this body as a plug to develop what I would like to have rolled and hammered in aluminum sheet, someday.

[toddshotrods]

Last round of planing and opening the center hole. The burl billet now stands at 1.68" thick, with ~5.125" center hole and is very stable. It has never exhibited any signs of warping, twisting, or measurable change. If that holds true in the next few weeks or so, I will begin the process of carving out the rim. It gets Black and White Ebony wood inset into the spoke landing areas, and I start hogging out material between the three landings. If it survives all that, I will, eventually, someday, start whittling the final shape. I wonder if there's a record for the longest build time ever for an automotive steering wheel?! I bought this block about two years ago. It had been aged for three years at that point. Five years and counting, and I'm still working on the wood rim...:lostmarbles:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/333.jpg

[toddshotrods]

Lots of reshuffling and reorganizing going on here, which is why there haven't been any updates to this project/thread. I killed "the Inhaler Project" as a separate organization, and moved all the educational plans directly under the Columbus Idea Foundry's wings. I am still working with them to develop the educational program, but it will be theirs, freeing me to put my concentration on my design work. No more toe-dipping, backwards off the high dive...

The first thing I did was take a long look at this project and compare what it has become (from using it as a training tool), compared to what I was originally after; and try to figure out where to go with it from here.

Already long story a little shorter: Schism is not the right foundation for pure design, but it is an excellent foundation for a go-fast car. I started another project to release my pent up creative energy on and will be laser-focused on making this the most intense, street-legal, race car possible. As a result, I am removing some of the aesthetic stuff, like the steering wheel and hood emblem, and moving them to the other project. That doesn't mean I won't be going overboard on Schism, just no pure art/design stuff. It has to have a purpose in making the car faster too.

I didn't start a thread for the new project here because it seems so far outside the scope of this forum. It's scratch-built, with styling based on a 1909 Packard Gentlemen's Runabout (which meant speedster in Packard lingo, which means a hood, seat, and tank on a chassis), and hybrid power from a Honda CB750 engine and electric motor. It's also a reverse trike (two wheels up front, one in back). I started a month ago, and have set the ridiculous goal of having it running for Goodguys, though I'm not too confident they'll let me in with it... :rofl:

Work will resume soon on Schism. The goal is 1:1 power-to-weight, and beatthehelloutofit. I'm considering making the switch to an LSx motor... :drive: :rockin:

[toddshotrods]

Look what I have done to my little hot rod! :lostmarbles: :confused59: :lmao:

I am winding down my little operation in the community workshop. They're moving to a new building around the end of this year and I am not going with them, as a tenant. I plan to continue teaching classes, but won't be building vehicles there. I am in the process of getting everything in my studio rolling, and selling off everything I don't need for the next stage of my master plan. After a lot of soul-searching and planning, my electric bike came out on top as my "flagship", and all the other bright ideas don't really fit what I see in my future - so they have to go.

While sorting through all that, I was offered this Laser 917 Porsche replica body - free - and eventually decided to jump on it. What I am building now is basically a glorified tow vehicle for my bike. Same guts, different wrapper.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/340.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/341.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/342.jpg

The, revised, plan is to get it together and drive the snot out if it. The hot rod didn't make sense for transporting the bike because it was almost an open car, meaning only fair weather. When I get this thing sealed up, and set up with Vintage Air, it's ready to go anywhere, any time. We're still going turbo, but not reaching for 700+hp, and not a 1:1 power-to-weight ratio. 400+ is easily obtainable - my engine guy does that in his daily driver Civic, with the weak Honda motor, so it will still be fun; and I still plan to do the hybrid electric front drive - it's all set up for that - but with two smaller motors in place of the big forklift motor.

Why go to all this trouble, instead of just buying a truck or van? I already have the chassis, couldn't resist the deal on the body, and it's more fun. :lol: Imagine 400-500hp (combined), in a <2000lb vehicle, that gets 40+mpg, and looks like the Batmobile! :unibrow:

As for the new build plan: the Laser body fits surprisingly well on the mid-engine T chassis. The seating position is pretty much perfect, and the shifter even falls right into place behind the center stack of the dash. It's almost like I planned this, from the beginning. The narrow rear tires are also surprisingly close to the sides of the wide body. I thought I was going to need really deep dish rims and 295-345mm tires to fill it. I am going to build longer front control arms to get the front tires out where they belong, and eventually get a little lip and more rubber in back. The emphasis is just on making it run, and improving it over time, and driving it more, and more, and more. The over-the-top details are out (happening on the bike now), and I will strive for things like comfort more. For example, instead of absolute/massive power, I'd rather spend the money on a Recovery Room interior...

I hope to have the control arms sorted out and the vehicle rolling and steering in a couple months or so, then it's simply a matter of getting everything hooked back up to fire the motor.

[GregWeld]

Worst thing I see people do all the time -- too many projects.... not enough time or money.

Smart to get down to one (two is too many in my book) and get 'er done.


Great score on the body!! Hope you have a nice shop to move to.

[toddshotrods]

Worst thing I see people do all the time -- too many projects.... not enough time or money.

Smart to get down to one (two is too many in my book) and get 'er done...

Thanks Greg - I was scared at first - I thought you were going to rap my knuckles with a straight-edge! :twak: :)




...Smart to get down to one (two is too many in my book)...
I agree 100%. I actually tried, really hard, to get down to just one but I can't do it. I actually accomplish less when I have one because I put so much into that one project, I start to burn out; but I have to have somewhere to put that creative energy or I go bananas. :hairpullout: I am most productive when I have one over-the-top project (will be my bike now) and one less intense project to unwind on (this one now). I agree though that it is actually still a bit counterproductive, but in my case it keeps me from spinning out of control. At least that's the plan...





...Great score on the body!!...
Thanks! I actually went back and forth a hundred times whether or not to do this, but I am really glad I did, now that it's here. It takes me back to the good ol' days of just wrenching on my cars and driving them - for the fun of it - before I became obsessed with chasing radical design concepts. Being a 70s/80s kit car body, it's hard to take it too seriously, and also not the best platform to seek "perfection" on, so it should help me keep my focus on simple fun.





...Hope you have a nice shop to move to.
At this point, I don't plan to have one; more like an office. My future is in providing design services and teaching others how to do design and fabrication. I also have some EV market specific products I (eventually) hope to bring to market, but I won't be making them. Ideally, I would love to develop and sell or license them...

[toddshotrods]

I'm having enough fun that I eagerly dove (properly covered, goggled, and respirated, of course) into a cloud of fiberglass dust today, to get the rear clip to fit. Minor reward = no itching. Major payoff = I can't stop :D !

With the rear clip removed - amazing to me how it looks like it should all be together, despite the fact that this was originally an antique hot rod.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/344.jpg


All together now...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/345.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/346.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/347.jpg
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/348.jpg



I thought I had a lot more work ahead of me to get clearance for the engine, but this is perfect.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/349.jpg

[toddshotrods]

If you pay attention, life is an awesome teacher, and has a way of lining things up in time for you to have the info you need when you need it most. Between the point that work stopped on the Model T themed plan here, and has resumed with Porsche kit body, I built a quirky little reverse trike that helped me get back to the simple concept of simply having fun and building something that makes me smile - just in time for the most "me" project I have ever had. Screw the rulebooks, and extreme performance/engineering mandates, just good ol' fashion custom automotive self expression/creative fun.

The number one priority is getting the body mounted on the chassis, and to do that I need some type of upper cage structure. That will allow me to kill two birds with one stone - the rear cabin mounts, and the rear clip hinge pivots. Rather than even looking in the direction of the sanctioning bodies' outdated rules, I am building a cage that I like - period. I am playing on the funny car cage theme, originally intended for Schism, but with one curvy roll bar in place of the traditional, multi-tube, upper F/C cage structure. That gives reasonable rollover protection, and keeps the door openings clear, so we can simply step in and sit down. I call it the throne room... :lol:
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/350.jpg


Instead of a simple, two-bend, hoop I am piecing together something more visually interesting. Except for this dip in the center, all splices will be sleeved and plug welded, chamfered for full penetration at the joint, and smoothed.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/351.jpg


This one was just chamfered, welded, and blended, because there are two uprights coming up from the frame; one on either side of the dip.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/352.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I think I have too much work in this one little bar, but it's getting there. :lostmarbles:

There's a slight difference the bends, that wasn't as noticeable as it is all together. Whadda ya want from a Jeg's cage kit? I can compensate when grafting this hoop into the cage.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/353.jpg




Almost there. I have to ream the plug weld holes on the frame tubes out to .750" (from .500"), tweak the alignment, and chamfer the tops of the frame tubes and I can make this permanent. I'll probably just weld half of the plugs, tack the chamfers for now, and finish welding it when I weld the rest of the chassis.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/354.jpg

[toddshotrods]

I hope you can deal with the barrage of almost identical pics. I try to share the whole process, in as much detail as possible, for those who like to pick things apart. In this round, I had to set the body because the rear upper mounts go on the roll bar, which is a fixed member of the chassis. Once those mounts are welded and bonded in, the body's position, except for minor (shim) adjustments, is set in stone; so gotta get it right. You'll have to imagine that the wheels are out where they belong, as I didn't get to that yet...

This required making a final decision on stance - I wanted a radical, American hot rod stance. I have always wanted to do this to an exotic sports car, which obviously is not easy to pull off because they're already so low. To get the wheel arches to drape over the wheel/tire combo, and still have ground clearance underneath, and headroom inside - not exactly simple. Again, it's like I set out to do this; like all this stuff was designed and created to accomplish that goal.

I decided to follow my heart and go for broke. I channeled the body an additional inch over the chassis.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/355.jpg




I'll have to do a little surgery up here to not leave pieces of fiberglass everywhere I go. My plan is to cut an inch or so off and replace it will a full-length carbon fiber composite splitter that will be able to take the abuse. It will also keep the line of body color across the bottom more consistent, as this hangs over an inch lower than the rockers. More on all that later...
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/356.jpg




Here's the drape over the rear wheel/tire combo. The tires are 26" overall diameter, so with a 18-19" rim (17s up front), from most angles, it should get some paint down into the same plane as the rim. Closing the wheel opening in, and re-shaping it, will accentuate this even more. It should work like slamming a Veyron and stuffing 22s under the back of it.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/357.jpg





I love this view. The A-pillars and windshield set down between those huge fender bulges is me, me, me. I know this is a cheap replica, but 917s had absolutely beautiful lines. You can also see how, from a normal viewing angle, the rocker panels are almost skimming the floor.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/358.jpg





Channeling the body that extra inch set my roll bar perfectly just under the roof.
http://toddperkinsdesign.com/images/schism/forums/buildpics/359.jpg