What do the other TIG guys do to sharpen your tungsten? [Archive]

Revved

11-15-2011, 05:05 PM

I'm still learning the ropes of this TIG machine and getting better by the project. After a long conversation with the guy behind the desk at the local welding shop I've gotten some tungsen and filler rod that are better sized for my materials and its made a world of difference in weld quality! The last issue I'm really fighting is scatter which leads to my question.... What is everyone else doing to sharpen their tungsten? The guy at the welding shop of course recommended a dedicated grinder wheel that is only used for sharpening tungsten which would be practical if I was TIG welding all day... or even on a weekly basis but in the real world the grinder gets used for anything that needs grinding. I've tried looking for a sharpener and they make them for $500+ which is also not practical.

Anybody have a better option or do I just need give in and dedicate a grinder wheel to the noble goal of better TIG welding?

War

11-15-2011, 05:50 PM

You just need to give in.

ccm399

11-15-2011, 06:44 PM

What Jason said is true...

However, to address the question more directly, a dedicated wheel is worth it but it doesn't have to be a full size grinding wheel. I use a 1" diameter stone wheel for my die grinder.

The important thing is to grind the tungsten in the correct direction. The grind marks should be parallel to the center line of the material. I hold the tungsten with the point toward the top of the wheel (although I have seen other people hold the point down). If the grind marks are perpendicular to the center line of the tungsten that can cause issues with the arc stability.

There are chemical sharpening options too but I have not used those too much. Actually I have only used that type of deal once at the welding shop when i was demoing a Miller Diversion. I found the chemical tough to control the shape and size of the sharpening. maybe with a little practice it would get easier but I like grinding.

Hope this helps!

Revved

11-15-2011, 10:25 PM

A dedicated die grinder setup might be something to look into.... thanks!

I'm currently sharpening it on my belt sander with a worn 120 grit belt and I am pointing into the cut. I've heard you should use 180 or finer so I know my choice of sharpening tool is likely the cause of my issue but its convenient until I get something better figured out... thus the post! I'll be making some type of change here in the next week.

Anyone else with a trick setup?

GregWeld

11-15-2011, 10:42 PM

I have a dedicated tungsten grinder....

This is the model I own -- but these little things ARE as you know - expensive!

http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_2118_166&products_id=2837

A couple of things....

#1) Tungsten dust ain't good for ya!

#2) The shape and quality of your tungsten IS important.

Be sure you're grinding properly -- and on a dedicated wheel that isn't contaminated. If you can't afford a dedicated tungsten grinder....pick up a cheap bench grinder at Harbor Freight or something of that quality and use it
only for tungsten work.

There are tons of educational videos on this subject on YouTube... takes only a couple minutes and maybe you'll spot something you are or aren't doing.

Remember -- INVERTER TIG welding - YOU DO NOT ball the tungsten for aluminum... you point it like everything else you're doing.

I got a good laugh at this scenario... because as many people discover - the initial purchase of equipment is the "cheap part".... it's all the other stuff you need to make PRO quality parts! I own an inexpensive JET "mill/drill".... I've spent 3 times the original purchase amount on cutters and collets and vises and indexers...:cheers:

Sandbagger

11-15-2011, 10:48 PM

Last week I was having the same problem . I was in a pinch so I just cut the 1/16 tungsten with a wire cutters . This was much better than the old grinding wheel at the shop . I now have a dedicated grinder that gets locked up ,so the other cavemen at the shop dont sharpen there spear points with it .

GregWeld

11-15-2011, 10:54 PM

A little PS....

The smaller the tungsten diameter - the FINER (is that a word?) your wheel/grit should be.

I wouldn't use anything coarser than #300 and #600 should be used on the little 1/16th inch stuff.

ccm399

11-16-2011, 01:38 PM

Good stuff Greg (as always).

I will have to give the finer (I say it IS a word!) wheel a try on my 1/16 and .040 stuff. The wheel I have is pretty fine but I know it is way courser (hmm not sure about that one:rofl: ) than #300

Chris

ccm399

11-16-2011, 01:43 PM

Remember -- INVERTER TIG welding - YOU DO NOT ball the tungsten for aluminum... you point it like everything else you're doing.

And don't use GREEN tungsten either.... Even the guy at the LWS had Green in when I demo'd the Diversion.. I asked him if we could change it to RED and boom MUCH better!

GregWeld

11-16-2011, 01:51 PM

Oh yeah --- Green (pure) is super old skool....

Use the proper tungsten for the proper HEAT RANGE which there are many charts for. You can find these at Miller or Lincoln. The diameter and type of tungsten is based on the work - A/C or DCEN - and the amperage range etc.

Crank that bad boy up and use too much current for the tungsten diameter and you get all manor of crud in your weld!

Since I'm old as dirt and can't remember anything (what were we talking about?) I use charts for everything lest I get confused. I tape them on the sides of my machines for easy reference.

ccm399

11-16-2011, 01:56 PM

Greg, have you ever used the Chemical sharpeners out there?

GregWeld

11-16-2011, 02:03 PM

No....

I'm pretty 'fortunate' so if I need something for my hobby - I just go get it.

I've been welding for YEARS.... (that's not to say I'm any good at it!) and I've just upgraded "Stuff" as space allowed for it. So I'm one of those guys that has as much equipment as a pro shop. :D

Revved

11-16-2011, 03:09 PM

Good info! Thanks for the advice everybody!

The welding shop guy actually had me switch over to green since i'm just doing aluminum so me must be old school! :lol: Seems to be working pretty well except for the fact that he also talked me into switching to 1/16 for the thin wall intercooler tubing but I think it's too small since I'm going through tungsten like crazy- the whole exposed tip is glowing while i'm welding and it gets brittle and has even broken off a few times so I think I'm going to go back up a size....

I think i'm just going to order a wheel for my grinder today.. Seems to be the simplest solution... i'll just get out the label maker to remind myself not to use that side :unibrow:

GregWeld

11-16-2011, 03:22 PM

Aluminum has to be welded in A/C not DCEN (DC electrode negative).... the A/C (alternating current) is used to keep heat out of the electrode and also to aid in cleaning the aluminum as you weld.

I don't know what setting your particular welder has... but you need to check these if you're having the trouble stated!

The Dynasty 200DX has push button settings to change parameters.... but my big MIG welder actually has to have the cables physically changed if I'm changing polarity.

So - check to see that you are welding ALUMINUM in A/C --- and then there should be settings for frequency etc - and these depend on the gauge - amperage - type of weld etc.

GregWeld

11-16-2011, 03:27 PM

What welder do you have?? I don't want to give you bad advice because different welders have different characteristics!

Inverter welders are better with pointed tungsten... and they generally have pulse settings etc

The older welders and some new welders are NOT inverter welders and they would have different settings etc. Non inverter welders use a balled end (hate that) and green (pure) tungsten works well for this - depending on the amperage being used.

ccm399

11-16-2011, 03:35 PM

I thought we were discussing an inverter machine too but I see now that there has been no mention of the machine itself.

In the shop I used to work at we switched over to RED electrodes (even for Aluminum) in our Sync 250 years ago... you have to resharpen the electrode fairly often but it still typically beats the GREEN. Well, that is for weld aluminum castings anyway the RED takes WAYYYY more heat.

I have to agree with Greg though I do not like balled tungsten.

rwhite692

11-16-2011, 06:44 PM

.... Non inverter welders use a balled end (hate that) and green (pure) tungsten works well for this - depending on the amperage being used....

Greg you are right about hating the idea of a balled tungsten, but this needs some further clarification...

Many old-timers (Like my Dad, who grew up on transformer, ie, non-inverter tig machines before the advent of today's inverter machines) got schooled in the practice of using a pure, balled tungsten electrode when welding Aluminum on A/C. Back then, the only way to have a pure tungsten electrode be able to actually survive the heat of aluminum welding on AC, was to ball the end of it by striking on DC. That made a little "globe" on the end of the electrode, which would help heat to radiate off the electrode tip during Aluminum AC welding, due to all of the added surface area. But, the torch heat zone was HUGE and hard to control.

However, much has been learned in the past 20-30 years, and today we have far superior electrodes which have compositions/metallurgy which can handle the heat of Aluminum welding much better than pure tungsten, and so we can put the desired pencil point on the electrode and have a nice, tight "flame like" heat zone off the electrode.

Today, there is NO reason that you have to, or would want to, use a pure tungsten electrode, and you do certainly not want a balled tungsten, even if you are using a transformer (non-inverter) machine.

Any transformer machine when A/C welding Aluminum, will perform infinitely better when using a 2% Lanthanated tungsten electrode (gold band) or a 2% Ceriated tungsten electrode (orange, (sometimes looks more like red) band), sharpened to a point with a pencil-like angle. (Be sure to grind the electrode longitudinally) after sharpening the electrode, I grind a tiny "flat" on the very end which is about .030" diameter (using my calibrated eyecrometer). My machine is a 2003-ish Miller syncrowave (big honkin transformer machine).

http://www.thefabricator.com/article/arcwelding/guidelines-for-tungsten-electrodes

Ketzer

11-16-2011, 08:35 PM

Aluminum has to be welded in A/C not DCEN (DC electrode negative)....
Greg,
What's the DC electrode positive (DCEP) setting used for?

BTW,
Here's my sharpening set-up...

http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267/1824562/21668057/399559343.jpg

My buddies laugh because this thing will fit in the palm of your hand, but it's quiet, smooth, sits right there and doesn't move around and cost like $20. It has one purpose, to sharpen tungstens.

Jeff-

GregWeld

11-16-2011, 08:44 PM

DCEP -- or reverse polarity would give you a deeper penetrating weld.

I'd use it for stick welding... on thick material or material that was filthy dirt - like farmer welding... I can't remember the last time I stick welded....

GregWeld

11-16-2011, 08:47 PM

Get ya some of that there 6011.... no need to clean that rust and grease off -- just weld away! :willy: :unibrow:

GregWeld

11-16-2011, 08:55 PM

Jeff ---

Have you tried welding thin sheet metal with DCEP?? On TIG??

pokey64

11-16-2011, 09:15 PM

Get ya some of that there 6011.... no need to clean that rust and grease off -- just weld away! :willy: :unibrow:

That's funny. My guys go through cases of that crap a year welding farm fencing. I grew up thinking that was the only way to weld! :_paranoid

GregWeld

11-16-2011, 09:33 PM

That's funny. My guys go through cases of that crap a year welding farm fencing. I grew up thinking that was the only way to weld! :_paranoid

Hey -- I used to BRAZE (with brass fill rod and that welding stuff called Oxy Acetylene!) fenders on and patch panels... and anything thicker than that was 6011!

Oh -- gee -- and then we discovered bondo reacts (not favorably!) with brass! LOL

I'm always waiting to recognize some of those "crap repairs" we "discover" now on these 40+ year old cars... as something I might have done!! :rofl:

Ketzer

11-16-2011, 10:04 PM

Hey -- I used to BRAZE (with brass fill rod and that welding stuff called Oxy Acetylene!) fenders on and patch panels... and anything thicker than that was 6011!

Oh -- gee -- and then we discovered bondo reacts (not favorably!) with brass! LOL

I'm always waiting to recognize some of those "crap repairs" we "discover" now on these 40+ year old cars... as something I might have done!! :rofl:

So this was YOU, you bastage! Now I'm faced with trying to fix all this crap!

http://pic40.picturetrail.com/VOL267/1824562/21668057/399560662.jpg

One of my friends was looking at this and commenting on what a half-assed bs repair it was... that's just how it was done years back. Painful, but common.

Jeff-

Ketzer

11-16-2011, 10:15 PM

Jeff ---

Have you tried welding thin sheet metal with DCEP?? On TIG??

I did flip it over there tonight and try to start an arc on some 18ga. Even with the setting on 75, it put out a glow like I was welding thick aluminum and turned the tungsten red almost immeadiately and balled the end of it. Of course it blew right through the 18ga. DCEP must use much lower settings than DCEN?
I didn't continue to fool with it because obviously I needed to ask someone what sort of stoopid sheet I was doing with electrode positive... :_paranoid

Jeff-

GregWeld

11-16-2011, 10:51 PM

OMG!! I remember that car!!

:willy: :willy: :rofl:

Seriously Jeff -- I'm really not that good of a welder.... better than many -- not nearly as talented as I'd like to be... not enough steady day in and day out welding to get to expert level. My skill is more from many many years of welding various 'stuff' -- and understanding the warp - the clamp - and being able to get 'er done.

DCEP is not something I'd bother with in TIG - because - WTF - it's hard enough making nice just trying to do the standard stuff the standard way. But it is "described" as a way to weld thin sheet. I can weld thin sheet in DCEN so "why bother" doing it any other way....

The reason I "PUSH" the Dynasty 200 machine - because it has so many controls that help us do better work. The settings really do help - pulse - and frequency control etc. and it will do the gauges that we commonly work in. I don't see the need to ever buy another machine for TIG unless this one gives up the ghost some day.

If I was welding frames all day -- I'd have a bigger machine and a water cooled torch... But I weld a little here and a little there - a patch panel - a bracket - someones busted up lawn mower... and it's more than enough for that. I have a couple torches -- the #2 is used the most - it's small and has a super supple supply line....

rwhite692

11-16-2011, 11:36 PM

Revved

11-17-2011, 08:38 AM

Please, Please get yourself some 2% Lanthanated or Ceriated and stop using Pure tungsten for your Aluminum welding, you won't believe the difference in performance. Also when welding 1/16 wall aluminum tubing, 3/32 dia. electrode works well.

From what I've been seeing on the bench and what I've been reading in this post that is what I'm going to do... I started with a 3/32 orange band and with 3/32 filler rod that came with the welder. I've switched to 1/16" filler which seems to be more controllable and I think the rest of my early issues fall back to how I was grinding the tungsten.

The switch to TIG has definately been a learning experience and I've got a simple TIG welder... it looks like it is going to be a whole new ball game when I step up to something bigger that has more buttons and dials!:lol:

Still I've made huge progress since the first sparks! I've got dimes, quarters, lumps.... but no melt downs. 3" Vibrant intercooler tubing.. The picture makes it look huge but the weld is less than 1/4"
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv328/RevvedAC/Misc%20Car%20Pics/Weld.jpg

GregWeld

11-17-2011, 09:07 AM

You really don't need to scuff the aluminum with the wire brush etc if you're welding with A/C... the A/C will do the cleaning.

Try it.

Can you set frequency etc on your welder?

ccm399

11-17-2011, 10:14 AM

Looks like it might have been wire brushed after the welding. If not there is not much cleaning etch visible around the weld.

ccracin

11-17-2011, 11:18 AM

I'm going to have to try Aluminum at some point! Damn this project, no time to experiment! Good info here guys! Thanks. :thumbsup:

Revved

11-17-2011, 02:15 PM

The tubing comes pre-polished and the guy that was doing the TIG work for me before said it was giving him grief when he was welding and with everything I've read about TIG not liking contamination I scrub the crap out of the tubing before welding with a stainless brush.

It looks like I did run back over it with a stainless wire brush post-weld.

No, I cant adjust frequency on my TIG. Its a Miller Diversion 165- pretty basic but I got it for a good price to learn with and it should burn everything I'm doing for now.

ccm399

11-17-2011, 03:22 PM

Nothing wrong with the Diversion to learn on!!!!

If you brush the aluminum brush one direction only. Going back and forth can cause the oxides to get pushed deeper into the material.

My little Diversion (165 with a pedal) seems to be "under rated" as it does a pretty good job on thicker materials. As long as you don't "force" it. Give her some time and away you go.

You will be able to get excellent results with the diversion. Everyone on the miller Forums say the Diversion Aluminum settings are the "std" Dynasty 200dx settings.

Chris

GregWeld

11-18-2011, 10:14 AM

I'm going to have to try Aluminum at some point! Damn this project, no time to experiment! Good info here guys! Thanks. :thumbsup:

I actually find aluminum "easy" but it's all about being able to see the puddle especially on aluminum.... and I find the speed is far faster once you get going --- it's a real dip move dip move process.

ccracin

11-18-2011, 10:17 AM

it's a real dip move dip move process.

It figures, I can't dance either! :rofl:

rwhite692

11-18-2011, 01:09 PM

One thing that really helps, especially with tig, is to be able to get really "up close and personal" with the weld (Not you Greg) and see exactly what is going on with the puddle. Even if you are not "getting on in years", get yourself a 1.0 or 1.5 diopter magnifying ("cheater") lens for your helmet, and just try it. The Miller ones cost all of eight dollars on Ebay....It's a cheap experiment.

And even if you don't have a Miller helmet, you can just tape one inside whatever helmet you may have. Using one will make a better welder out of almost anyone (my opinion).

GregWeld

11-18-2011, 07:05 PM

I agree with you Rob -- perhaps the method is "crude" -- but I've said over and over again on these welding questions.... If you can't see the puddle - you just can't weld. Period. Whatever that "is"... different shades of lens - glasses - head angle - torch angle.... Ya got to be able to clearly see the puddle. If all you're seeing is a white spot - or it's so dark you can't see the color of the metal changing - or you can't see when it goes from solid to molten... ya gotta change what you're doing until you can.

Fluid Power

11-22-2011, 02:19 PM

dhutton

11-22-2011, 04:15 PM

Great idea! On it!

Darren

X2, I ordered one today. Thanks for the tip.

Don

preston

11-23-2011, 02:49 PM

Well I will get slammed for this but - I just use a 80 grit flapper disc on my hand grinder to sharpen my tungsten, and its whatever flapper disc I happen to have. It mostly gets used on aluminum but is is FAR from a clean disc. I am not the best Tig welder in the world but I do all right, and don't really have a problem with a wide or wandering arc. I do clean the crap out of my aluminum and rod before welding or else I get bad contamination. Perhaps having a dirtier tungsten is why I have to be so meticulous about cleaning my parts, but if it is welding clean it is welding clean. I might try using a virgin disc next time I am TIG'ing to see if it helps.

Just another data point.

SuperB70

11-24-2011, 01:08 PM

Preston, I'm with you. Only that I use a cordless drill to turn my tungsten.:D

Place I use to work had sharpener, its great tool but I'm not getting one.

I never had any problems with arg at to start of welding anyway, after couple stuck to puddle chances things quite radically.:willy:

rwhite692

11-24-2011, 05:27 PM

ccm399

11-25-2011, 01:22 PM

Slightly off topic but... I finally tried to weld after my eye injury... One eyed TIG welding is NOT so easy.... After a couple rods I was doing OK but even then there are a lot of things to watch with one eye and NO depth perception.

Anyway, more on topic.... I did try different tip point angles, very interesting results. More practice it needed with that though as I was more concerned about learning to weld all over...

One other thing I tested. Turning down the argon flow. I noticed that my regulator had gotten bumped and was up at almost 20, I turned it down to 12, then 10 then 8 and had very good results. I should note that I did this with a gas lens and 1/16 tungsten on .063 3003 H14 and 1/16th 1100 series rod.

Chris

GregWeld

11-25-2011, 02:48 PM

I tried to emulate Mario (Doom) trying to TIG weld - and closed one eye.... NFW you can weld like that... it would take years of practice to just get motor skills to take over. :lol:

20CFH is way too high on the gas flow - so turning it down was a good move... and a gas lens uses a lower flow to start with - so even if you were flowing 12 you'd have bumped it down to 10 or so.

Pointing makes a difference - I have a sharpener so I can set the degrees (angle) I want and have it uniform every time.... but hand sharpening is not hard.... You taper should be "back" about 2/3ds the dia of the tungsten. And again - there's video on YouTube - and at Miller and Lincoln on this process.

Glad you're getting somewhere - because TIG is fun...

rwhite692

11-25-2011, 07:47 PM

I have only one good eye so, not much of an option for me, LOL. Some folks say that they can weld better using only one eye.

Ketzer

11-26-2011, 05:51 AM

I have only one good eye so, not much of an option for me, LOL. Some folks say that they can weld better using only one eye.

x2.

Somehow I manage decent depth perception despite not having steropic vison.

GregWeld

11-26-2011, 09:21 AM

Well kudos to you two - because I sure had troubles trying to do it with one eye shut! The depth perception just goes away. Plus - I could see around the corners!:wow: :lol:

ccm399

11-27-2011, 10:11 AM

Thank Greg,

I know 20 was way high but I was typically running around 12 but I have it down to 8 now and it is welding nice. I like the the 2/3 angle you mentioned the best so far but each situation requires something a little different.

As for the one eye deal... I used to have two good eyes and the other day was the first time I tried since my injury... COMPLETELY different! Obviously right? Anyway, Other than some dipping for the tungsten (a no no I know) I am doing OK so far.

Chris

Revved

12-05-2011, 06:37 PM

OK... made some huge progress in the last two weeks since I checked in... Got my red tungsten, got my fine wheel on the grinder and what a world of difference!! Much more stable arc and much better puddle control- less contamination issues since I can pull back a little further from the puddle.
This weekend I built an air intake system out of the previously mentioned Vibrant polished tubing and it turned out nice. I didn't scrub down the tubing this time as suggested and had no contamination issues with the polish... (I did verify that TIG doesn't like Sharpie marks though!! :lol:) I had an AH-HAH! moment and most of it was done without filler rod. It was so beautiful!! On these cars I grind the welds flush and the tubing gets painted so I need to be careful not to sink the weld too much- its better for me to have a little material to take off.

http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv328/RevvedAC/SS020/Weld2.jpg
http://i696.photobucket.com/albums/vv328/RevvedAC/SS020/SnakeAirIntake.jpg

Next TIG welding question is what do you use to clean a surface that you know is contaminated? For example trying to fix a pinhole leak in an aluminum radiator that you found after it had been filled?

Thanks for all the advice! It's been a huge help!:lateral:

GregWeld

12-05-2011, 06:57 PM

Looks great!

TIG is one of those "art forms" that is "fussy".... To make it look right... etc. MIG is just point and shoot.. but TIG takes some real knowledge and practice - glad it's working out for you!

No idea on the Radiator question. I don't think anyone repairs aluminum radiators...

Maybe if it's just a pinhole - some good old fashioned "stop leak" gunk... I really just don't know.

You might trying pouring DENATURED ALCOHOL in the radiator - and getting it to run out the pin hole.... and pour some more of it thru the fins in the area of need... and then clean that with some NON CHLORINATED brake cleaner... and then put some JB WELD over the pin hole. I found that info on a racing website. Never done it - but sounds like it would work.

Revved

12-06-2011, 10:05 AM

rwhite692

12-07-2011, 01:21 PM

ccracin

12-07-2011, 07:53 PM

FYI Jody Collier just posted another Aluminum tig welding video. I always learn something new to try out, when watching his videos. You can subscribe on his site and he will send you an email when new videos are posted.

http://www.weldingtipsandtricks.com/weld-aluminum.html

I think I have watched every video he has done. Very very helpful! Thanks for the heads up on the new one! You know, no one around me stocks gas lense parts. I had to order them.

Revved

12-15-2011, 09:45 AM

Thanks for the Video! It's good to watch the technique of someone that knows what they are doing. I'll have to go back through and watch more of them when I get some time.

On another note for anyone that is thinking about upgrading tanks go to Home Depot. They did this on my MIG tank when I upsized and last night I upsized my argon tank for a rediculous price. My normal welding shop wanted $200+ to upgrade my tank so I went to HD to see what they would charge. They billed me for the large tank argon exchange and then credited me back for the medium tank argon exchange price so it cost me a whole $16.00 in American money. I even questioned the guy because I was giving him an empty medium tank and would have been paying $48 bucks if I was just exchanging the large tank straight across but he insisted that is how the exchange upgrade worked. I don't feel bad... I've paid the rent for that store several times over.

Rokcrln

12-31-2011, 12:15 PM

jstnmcknny

02-03-2012, 12:58 AM

I am a huge fan of tig, if I could do it all day I would but that is not possible. For those of us who aspire to be a great tig welder you might want to check out John Marcella. He is an amazing welder when it comes to aluminum. His website is marcellamanifolds.com I think. If not he has a thread over on the yellowbullet.com, I only hope to be able to weld aluminum half as well as him someday.

Revved

04-03-2012, 04:11 PM

I just bought this one and have only used it a few times now but what a differance over my old way of sharpening. The arc was so much more stable and with the flat tip after sharpening it really did last much longer and was only about $350.
http://www.arc-zone.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&cPath=15_2118_165&products_id=125

Kevin
LFD Inc.

Think I'll have to break down and try one of those. The dedicated grinder wheel is... OK.. but still not seen the stability that I'd expect. I was doing quite a bit of TIG there for a while but haven't picked up the torch in a couple months. I have a big intercooler project coming up soon though so I think it will be worth the investment.

70 chevelle

04-04-2012, 07:12 AM

Htp also sells one . Slightly cheaper
http://www.usaweld.com/Adjustable-Tungsten-Grinder-p/ts-adj.htm

Hotrod1

04-30-2012, 09:51 PM

I chuck my rods in portable drill and grind them on a dedicated grinding wheel while they are spinning (from the drill). They turn out nice.

Sieg

06-11-2012, 12:42 PM

Would this work for a budget tungsten grinder after a little McGyver modification?

http://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-circular-saw-blade-sharpener-96687.html

GregWeld

06-11-2012, 04:22 PM

Would this work for a budget tungsten grinder after a little McGyver modification?

http://www.harborfreight.com/120-volt-circular-saw-blade-sharpener-96687.html

No --- just buy a cheap ass bench grinder and get a couple fine wheels and just dedicate them to tungsten only.

No need to make stuff complicated - it ain't rocket science.

Sieg

06-11-2012, 11:12 PM

duplicate due to glitch.

Sieg

06-11-2012, 11:13 PM

No --- just buy a cheap ass bench grinder and get a couple fine wheels and just dedicate them to tungsten only.

No need to make stuff complicated - it ain't rocket science.
Understood Sir! :D The cheapest grinder is $38 plus a fine wheel.
That sharpener has a motor and diamond (possibly zirconium) wheel and it wouldn't take much to make a verticle mount and adjustable guide for the tungsten and throw the base and other crap away. ASSUMING the motor isn't a wobbler it should get the job done and not take up much space.

Fire suit on Sir. :thumbsup:

Revved

07-27-2012, 04:07 PM

Htp also sells one . Slightly cheaper
http://www.usaweld.com/Adjustable-Tungsten-Grinder-p/ts-adj.htm

Bought one of these and have been super happy with it! And great for the price!!

****Update and suggestion for anyone fighting inconsistent TIG results****

As a follow up a month or two after starting to use the adjustable grinder its still working well but I was still fighting issues with inconsistant welds. I've moved my TIG welder away from the workshop bench where I do most of the cutting/grinding/ welding and I've started wiping down EVERYTHING I TIG with acetone and haven't had any further issues. I used to store my TIG right next to the bench and even though it was under a cover it was getting hit with grinding dust, oil overspray, and basically anything else that was going on at that bench. Rods were being stored on the back of the welder cart so I'm sure they were getting the same exposure.

Seems common sense now...

preston

11-09-2012, 10:56 AM

A couple things I've had success with lately -

Finally got around to buying a .040 tungsten. I am mostly welding 20 awg sheet metal and I was very surprised how big of a difference it made. So if you've been lazy like me because its hard to find at your local shop make the effort it was a 15% improvement. I'm still using .040 rod but I may have to try some MIG wire next.

I have also had succes with something else new. Guys on allmetlashaping were debating (for the 20th time) gas vs MIG vs TIG and HAZ and distortion etc. One guy piped in and said he didn't start of stop at all, just moved fast enough that distortion wasn't a problem and showed a door panel he had welded front to back nonstop. Now you know how hard a big open panel like that is to keep from shrinking away. Well I had heard people talk about fusion welding before but mostly thought it worked for the occasional tack welding god or gas welding or whatever, but after seeing his technique I started trying it more and I was like "Holy cow !" virtually no bead and pretty small HAZ and I'm still slow. Now you have to have perfect fitup, any gap at all and the rod has to come in, but I can now pull a 3-4" bead with no filler rod at all. And, in fact, my fusion weld is far superior to my "rod" welding as that still comes out lumpy and inconsistent and most importantly, slow - I am moving almost twice as fast when fusion welding so less heat, less distortion.

It probably only works on steel, haven't tried it on stainless, and I don't think you can strictly fusion weld on aluminum although I have carried the pool pretty damn far without rod before. Since I usually weld both sides of aluminum it works well for the 2nd side though.

Anyway, what works for me is come in hot (my lincon 225 machine is set to about 50 amps). So I come in full pedal and then even before the "spot" turns red I am moving forward (usually pushing the torch) and just keeping that hot red spot from melting through. If I come up to a tiny gap i might just kiss some rod in there. Also, I am moving between tacks about 2" apart so just about the time I am losing it I usually hit a tack and get some fresh pool.

I am far from an accomplished tig welder so if I can do it you can too. The bead comes out so nice and tiny you could almost planish it out (another technique I never believed in before as I always have to grind the crap out of my welds)

Also I was trying ceriated and it was crap, I hadn't tigged in a while so thought I just sucked, but switched back to thoriated and big improvement. So no matter what tungsten is recommended, keep experimenting you may hav ebetter luck with one thing or another.

WSSix

11-09-2012, 05:30 PM

I've watched friends weld up stainless exhaust parts without using any rod. Just like you said, Preston, make sure the fit is good and keep the tip moving. The welds they laid down came out very nice with small beads.

ssinister

04-03-2013, 10:50 AM

i tig welded these with a miller 250, on the ss tank and roll bar mount I used 3/32 red tungsten sharpened on a used 120 grit belt sander spinning in a drill. I always sharpen parallel to the centerline, but have only used a dedicated tungsten sharpener when I worked at Eaton Aeroquip. I might be able to help some of you with questions, but like Greg I am far from an expert. I do have some experience with rare metals, so I might be able to help there a little more. I have welded several alloys of inconel and titanium.

http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v423/birdie1218/Lees%20stuff/IMG00128-20100308-1136.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v423/birdie1218/Lees%20stuff/IMG00129-20100310-1356.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v423/birdie1218/Lees%20stuff/photo7_zps3d1f388b.jpg