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tyoneal
10-11-2011, 03:23 AM
Hello:

I would like some advice regarding a couple of questions.

I currently have a sbc with a 400 cid (Bowtie Block) in my car. It is very healthy, estimated at 525-550 hp. It was an original San Diego car and had no issues with over heating. Being in Texas, and with the installation of Vintage Air, the car wants and does over heat unless moving at quite a good clip.

My ideas to rectify this issue are:

a) It has electric fans on it now with a built in cowl system to promote the air to being pulled through the radiator. My thoughts are to look and see if I can close off any additional passages in front of the radiator that would not allow incoming air to bypass the radiator from underneath or otherwise.

b) Get a larger Radiator that is made to be used with the amount of power that the engine is putting out. Seems like many of the Radiator manufacturers seem to cut off the small and the larger radiators based on the engine power output, and the separation point is in between 500-600 Horse Power.

c) I would like some radiator advice from some of you who have had to move up to a crossflow, big radiator from a quality company, and use a Mark VII Fan to go with it. I have read on numerous occasions that by using that fan along with a larger more efficient radiator, that most if not all of someone's overheating issues can be handled using these two parts together. (Given there is not a Major Engine problem preexisting already)

Any and all feedback would be greatly appreciated regarding this. I am tired of dealing with this issue and want to get the car out a lot more without having to worry about it getting to hot.

Thanks in advance.

Regards,

Ty O'Neal

BTW: I have a Mark VII or VIII fan already set up for a 69 Camaro, and I really just need to acquire a terrific radiator to get back out on the road.

GregWeld
10-11-2011, 12:46 PM
Real simple --- AUTORAD radiator and core support..... big crossflow with dual fans.... and put on a SPAL PWM fan controller. Wired properly it will bang both fans at high speed when the A/C calls for it -- and runs them AFTER the A/C is off for a cool-down period. It also just runs fan #1 at half speed and then ramps it up until you need fan #2.

Now -- You said you have a SBC 400..... and they were notorious (wrongly so) for overheating. The reason that block had overheat issues was that people stuck SBC heads on 'em without drilling the steam hole in the head AND the gasket....

wellis77
10-11-2011, 01:13 PM
Another option is to talk with the guys at Ron Davis. I need a custom radiator for my application and they were great talking through what I need, don't need, and how I should go about sizing up my project.

Flash68
10-11-2011, 01:46 PM
My BeCool rad with dual Spal fans cool my 400 block just fine in my 68.

HRBS
10-11-2011, 01:57 PM
Try the guys at PRC (Performance Rod & Custom).
They can custom build to order. Tell them exactly what you have written here and provide them some dimensions and in a few weeks you will have your problems solved. I used to be a BeCool guy untill I got a PRC system in our Shop Bitch Nova. Needless to say, every car leaving here from now on will run a PRC.

tyoneal
02-09-2012, 03:39 AM
My BeCool rad with dual Spal fans cool my 400 block just fine in my 68.

Is your 400 putting out 550hp?

I think this is part of the cause for the overheating, + the A/C.

Ty

tyoneal
02-09-2012, 04:33 AM
Real simple --- AUTORAD radiator and core support..... big crossflow with dual fans.... and put on a SPAL PWM fan controller. Wired properly it will bang both fans at high speed when the A/C calls for it -- and runs them AFTER the A/C is off for a cool-down period. It also just runs fan #1 at half speed and then ramps it up until you need fan #2.

Now -- You said you have a SBC 400..... and they were notorious (wrongly so) for overheating. The reason that block had overheat issues was that people stuck SBC heads on 'em without drilling the steam hole in the head AND the gasket....

Can you elaborate on this for me? I believe the engine was assembled by a pretty competent engine builder.

This IS the Engine that Mark Magers used in his car. Here is some of the information about the car a number of years ago, I will see what else I have so I can give you more information.

http://www.lateral-g.net/members/magers/

Hope this helps.

Ty

GregWeld
02-09-2012, 08:54 AM
Many people don't realize that the 400 block used a couple "steam holes" to cool their Siamese cylinders... and if the gaskets don't have the right holes they block the passages -- or if the heads aren't drilled for the 400 block then they're blocked... so you have to have the right gaskets AND the right heads or a 400 block will overheat.

intocarss
02-09-2012, 11:34 AM
Convert SBC 350 Head for use on a 400

http://www.gregsengine.com/converting-350-heads-to-400.html

Flash68
02-09-2012, 11:46 AM
Is your 400 putting out 550hp?

I think this is part of the cause for the overheating, + the A/C.

Ty

Yes, around 550-570 hp I estimate.

FYI, I am only endorsing the BeCool because (1) it works well for me, and (2) I got my setup for $520 off craigslist ($1100 new for my setup). I don't think I'd pay $1100 for it though.

GregWeld
02-09-2012, 11:51 AM
I had TWO BeCool's leak -- in my Nomad -- never again.....

I use AutoRad now. Actually - I'd use ANYTHING over a BeCool... :D

Track Junky
02-09-2012, 11:54 AM
I had TWO BeCool's leak -- in my Nomad -- never again.....

I use AutoRad now. Actually - I'd use ANYTHING over a BeCool... :D

I'm running the $1200 BeCool also and so far its treated me and the car well. I'm running 620 hp at the crank.

Greg, which BeCool did you use?

GregWeld
02-09-2012, 02:43 PM
I'm running the $1200 BeCool also and so far its treated me and the car well. I'm running 620 hp at the crank.

Greg, which BeCool did you use?


Whatever crossflow they sell for a tri five chevy... polished etc...

Both leaked in the exact same place -- where they GLUE their tanks on... I no longer use anything where the metal is glued... They call it epoxy -- I call it GLUE. No thanks to those tanks! :D

Vegas69
02-09-2012, 03:36 PM
How long ago? 1956? Ha even Ron Davis was using epoxy 10 years ago. I agree though, I wouldnt buy a brand new epoxied radiator.

intocarss
02-09-2012, 06:55 PM
Now -- You said you have a SBC 400..... and they were notorious (wrongly so) for overheating. The reason that block had overheat issues was that people stuck SBC heads on 'em without drilling the steam hole in the head AND the gasket.... I went back and read that he has a 400 Bowtie block, Most of the true Bowtie blocks don't have the steam holes

A "crossflow" radiator will make a big difference too

69znc
02-09-2012, 06:56 PM
THe Davis and AutoRad both are excellent, and not inexpensive. radiators. I ran duel fans on both controlled by my ECM I got the larger diameter tubing in my new AutoRad. The target market for Davis seems to be a bit more industrial for HD racing and the AutoRad same quality and cooling but the extra touch to the street look and finish.

my 2 cents

Peter

tyoneal
02-11-2012, 09:26 AM
Good ideas on the Radiators.

I had never dealt with a BT sbc before, and this issue was baffling.

Do you think that a "Cross Flow" radiator with the killer Mark VIII Fan would still be a viable option?

Those fans with a proper housing on it I believe to be about the strongest around.

Ty

GregWeld
02-11-2012, 09:45 AM
Fan CFM is only important when you're not moving... and it's more important if you're running A/C... and if you add an automatic transmission to that... then you have a lot of heat to deal with.

Personally I like dual fans -- and I've been controlling them on my cars with the Spal PWM fan controller. It adds cost - but really works well - especially if you're running A/C.