1000 HP 69 Camaro rear end help!

[Pasquale]

hey guys, I trying to configure a rear end for a high performance street Camaro. I know I'm going to be using a 9" rear end, but I don't know what kind. I've been looking at fabricated housing from companies such as Moser and Currie, but I get different opinions on things such as semi floating and full floating, and detroit locker to a truetrac. I want a very strong rear end, but of course I want to be realistic at the same time. So as far as a complete rear end, what are my best options?

Thanks,
Pasquale

[garickman]

If you are going with a 9 inch, I have a brand new high horsepower third member for sale.

http://www.lateral-g.net/forums/showthread.php4?t=33682

[War]

http://thegmr.com/ This might work for you

[Pasquale]

Thanks that diagram does help. But does anyone know what the strongest 9" would be that would also be driver friendly on the street?

[classicfirebird]

strange nodular case, wavetrac diff, 35 spline axles, and chris alston fab 9 housing with bracing.

i have a fab 9 housing, strange case, and 31 spline axles with detroit locker. its held 800+ hp for a couple years with no problems.

[out2kayak]

What are you going to use the car for? How are you going to make power? What sort of tires are you going to run?

I'm targeting 1000hp at the rear wheels. I'm running a Currie F9 IRS setup, with custom CVs from Driveshaft shop, Wavetrac, 35 spline, etc.

That said, I'm building power with turbo's, which is "gentler" on the drive train. I don't plan on dead hooking at high RPM, producing large amounts of driveline shock.

Besides, I expect the rear tires (345/30R20 Michelin) are going to spin if I hit it too hard in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd (and perhaps all the way into 6th).

The hardest part I've found is finding the transmission (without going to a Lenco) that will handle the torque. RPM Transmission helped me with a T56 Magnum and all the mods.

Have you thought about what ring and pinion your going to run? I'm using a 3:50:1 (pretty steep) and, without a dedicated track toy (i.e. I do plan on using it on the street), the options I found were limited.

Thoughts?

:cheers:

[Blake Foster]

If your running 345 street tires a truetrac and 31 spline axles are all you will need, the tires will dictate EVERYTHING, and the additional 500hp you have will be good on the dyno.
my .02:thumbsup:

[Pasquale]

If your running 345 street tires a truetrac and 31 spline axles are all you will need, the tires will dictate EVERYTHING, and the additional 500hp you have will be good on the dyno.
my .02:thumbsup:

What do you say would be the smallest tire I could run in the back? I planned on running 295/35/18 in the rear and 255/40/18 in the front. I didn't want to go too wide so I can drive around the street.

[MillerBuilt]

hey guys, I trying to configure a rear end for a high performance street Camaro. I know I'm going to be using a 9" rear end, but I don't know what kind. I've been looking at fabricated housing from companies such as Moser and Currie, but I get different opinions on things such as semi floating and full floating, and detroit locker to a truetrac. I want a very strong rear end, but of course I want to be realistic at the same time. So as far as a complete rear end, what are my best options?

Thanks,
Pasquale

I personally am a big fan of overkill & safety....I would definately recommend a GMR full floater fabricated chromolly housing w/35 spline axles (35 spline on both carrier & drive plate side of axles) Nobody offers a complete fabricated full floater rear, HUB to HUB with apple for apple componentry as GMR does....I know because I looked and ended up buying one myself....it is very impressive stuff. If you will be running 1000hp+ you will feel much more at ease when you lay on the throttle knowing you have these components. Being a Full Floater you will reep many benefits...eliminating pre-mature bearing wear/leaky seals and or piston knock back seen by semi-floater rears, should you 1/4 mile the car and run a set of slicks and actually hook....god forbid you snap an axle, at least you will roll to a safe stop since your hub/wheel/tire will remain in tact and allow you to coast to a safe stop. As for 3rd members I like Mosers Aluminum case and Wavetrac. If you were more of a 1/4 mile car I would say go spool since I do not believe the Wavetrac is rated continuous at 1000hp+.....but since I believe you are probably more autocross/road course/pro tour/etc. a Wavetrac probably would be the best all around center section. Well with all this being said it will not be cheap....BUT BULLETPROOF & SAFE! Email Jason over at THE GMR [email protected] Hope this helps.:thumbsup:

[Bowtieracing]

What do you say would be the smallest tire I could run in the back? I planned on running 295/35/18 in the rear and 255/40/18 in the front. I didn't want to go too wide so I can drive around the street.


With 1000 hp with 295/35 18s you dont need to worry about rear end strenght at all. Tires will spin like an ice when hit the go pedal.

[Pasquale]

With 1000 hp with 295/35 18s you dont need to worry about rear end strenght at all. Tires will spin like an ice when hit the go pedal.

do you have a suggestions to what the biggest tire I could run comfortably on the street? I don't really want to run 335.

[ccracin]

do you have a suggestions to what the biggest tire I could run comfortably on the street? I don't really want to run 335.

I don't mean to sound critical here, but you are not making sense to me. You keep talking about I don't want this or that because I want street manors. Why in the world are you then spending the money on 1000hp? That's a lot of dough to frame a dyno sheet. If you have 1000hp available, I would be listening to these guys and the recommendations they have provided to give you the best chance of using that power and not hurting yourself. Wide tires do not automatically mean BAD for the street. You need to choose all these components to compliment each other. I would put a 345 on that beast. You need all the bite you can get. If you don't want to do all these things my recommendation would be to back off on the power. Please don't take this the wrong way, but no one will be able to help you when your goals don't seem to agree with each other. JMO. Good Luck, sounds like you will have a wild ride! :cheers:

[garickman]

I don't mean to sound critical here, but you are not making sense to me. You keep talking about I don't want this or that because I want street manors. Why in the world are you then spending the money on 1000hp? That's a lot of dough to frame a dyno sheet. If you have 1000hp available, I would be listening to these guys and the recommendations they have provided to give you the best chance of using that power and not hurting yourself. Wide tires do not automatically mean BAD for the street. You need to choose all these components to compliment each other. I would put a 345 on that beast. You need all the bite you can get. If you don't want to do all these things my recommendation would be to back off on the power. Please don't take this the wrong way, but no one will be able to help you when your goals don't seem to agree with each other. JMO. Good Luck, sounds like you will have a wild ride! :cheers:

Makes sense to me.

[MillerBuilt]

31994With 1000 hp with 295/35 18s you dont need to worry about rear end strenght at all. Tires will spin like an ice when hit the go pedal.

I disagree.......there are many many many cars in existance that hook EXTREMELY hard on this size tire (drag radial/slick) and will easily see 9 second passes in the 1/4. Even if your car does not come out of the hole at a clutch dumping or trans brake release of 6000rpm and you so choose to "walk it out" and lay into it.......your axle will still see EXTREME torque and the possibility of it twisting and or breaking is a strong reality.....I personally would like to know that at 140 mph+ that should I break an axle at the hands of 1000hp and a sticky tire that I will not go into a barrel roll. Lets also remember that this suggestion I make also eliminates all other known issues with semi-floater rears as well (piston knockback mainly). Hands down there are no down sides to a Full Floater (other than cost maybe...but in the scheme of things....) and if you are running 1000hp you would be running what I would consider a "marginal rear" at best with anything less that 35 spline axles with Full Floater hubs. Just my opinion and again hope this helps.:)

[ErikLS2]

Sounds like a killer car but I though the same thing about street manners and 1000 hp.

[Pasquale]

What are you going to use the car for? How are you going to make power? What sort of tires are you going to run?

I'm targeting 1000hp at the rear wheels. I'm running a Currie F9 IRS setup, with custom CVs from Driveshaft shop, Wavetrac, 35 spline, etc.

That said, I'm building power with turbo's, which is "gentler" on the drive train. I don't plan on dead hooking at high RPM, producing large amounts of driveline shock.

Besides, I expect the rear tires (345/30R20 Michelin) are going to spin if I hit it too hard in 1st, 2nd, or 3rd (and perhaps all the way into 6th).

The hardest part I've found is finding the transmission (without going to a Lenco) that will handle the torque. RPM Transmission helped me with a T56 Magnum and all the mods.

Have you thought about what ring and pinion your going to run? I'm using a 3:50:1 (pretty steep) and, without a dedicated track toy (i.e. I do plan on using it on the street), the options I found were limited.

Thoughts?

:cheers:

I plan are achieving the power with turbos and I will be running (315/30/18 Yokohama). I also plan to be using a 4L80e transmission. As of now, I only plan to have the car as a well performing street car. So as far as gearing goes, I do not want to be at too high of RPM while I'm driving down the freeway. And from what some people have mentioned to me is that I should go with a full floating rear end. The only disadvantage I heard with a full floater is the price.

[rjsjea]

Nothing is cheap at 1000hp....a full floater, fab'd housing, 35spline axles are still cheaper than losing an axle at 100mph+


-My worthless opinion

[Pasquale]

Nothing is cheap at 1000hp....a full floater, fab'd housing, 35spline axles are still cheaper than losing an axle at 100mph+


-My worthless opinion

I like the way you think. It will definitely be worth it in the long run. Does anyone like what Moser Engineering has to offer as far as ordering a complete floating 9"? I seem to like the way they're fabricated housing looks.

[MillerBuilt]

I like the way you think. It will definitely be worth it in the long run. Does anyone like what Moser Engineering has to offer as far as ordering a complete floating 9"? I seem to like the way they're fabricated housing looks.

Hey Pasquale, the main reason I recommend the GMR floater setup (not just because I own one) is that it is the ONLY one on the market currently strong enough/being built specifically for the new generation of classic cars. Meaning, high horsepower with large brake rotor capabilities. The fact that it has a wide bearing spread within the hub body for those autocross/track days is a large bonus and the fact that it is also lighter than a typical semi-floater axle/brake setup is great for rotational mass!

The other circle track kits on the market are excellent for their intended use.... "circle track" and NEVER meant to see horsepower even close to what you intend on using. The driveplates with these circle track kits are only 24 spline and will not hold up to high hp (GMR's are 35 spline). The hub bodies/wheel studs with the circle track kits will not hold up either to big horsepower as they are also designed for circle track and NEVER where intended for PT type high hp cars. If you look at the wheel stud "mounting ears" standing off the hub body of these circle track type hubs.....not any meat at all to take the force of high hp hitting the wheel studs from the drive plate......if the wheel stud does'nt snap first from the shear force (since circle track studs screw in from the back which leaves the drive plate to ride/thrust against the threads.....complete fail for high horsepower and is a shear point-GMR's design allows the drive plate to thrust on a shank area on the also stronger 17-4 stainless studs and will NOT shear), the wheel stud mounting ear on the hub body will most definately break........but most likely it will never get to this since the 24 spline drive plate splines will strip out first.

32025


Some might say perhaps just have 35 spline drive plates made (which wont be cheap for one set anyhow) but even if this was done for the circle track kits, the next weak points as I mentioned above (hub body/studs) would most definately fail under your type hp. I have seen with my own two eyes these type failures and was why I was so impressed with the thought/engineering that was put into the GMR Full Floaters.

[GregWeld]

With 1000 hp with 295/35 18s you dont need to worry about rear end strenght at all. Tires will spin like an ice when hit the go pedal.



This is SO F'N' true!!

I've always said that the "slo blow fuse" in my Nomad is the tires out back.... can't break parts when you can't hook it up for shizzlesticks!!!

[fesler]

We have used them all in our builds and by far like the Alston Fab 9 set up. If you call us up we can help you out fit your car to your needs with something that will be perfect for both worlds.