Chassis Coating

[out2kayak]

OK folks, here's your chance to vote. What chassis coating would you use?

1. Paint
2. POR-15 (kinda in a class all by it's lonesome)
3. Powder coat
4. Other (post your "other" thought).

:cheers:

[wmhjr]

Other than "possibly" due to cost (and often there is little difference there) there is really no debate. Other than for a pure isca indoor show car, powder is the only thing I will consider.

[cencalc6]

PowderCoat :thumbsup:

[pokey64]

I'd say powder coat as well. We had my Impala frame and the Fab9 for my wife's Camaro powder coated earlier this year and really liked the results.

http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad79/edspokey64/Impala/IMG_5388.jpg
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad79/edspokey64/Impala/IMG_5385.jpg
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad79/edspokey64/Camaro/IMG_5909.jpg
http://i923.photobucket.com/albums/ad79/edspokey64/Camaro/IMG_5901.jpg

[56pickup]

Paint because there is no "Touch Up" for Powder coating

[wmhjr]

Paint because there is no "Touch Up" for Powder coating

Bs.

Old wives tail. I've touched it up at least a dozen times on my current build. Only remotely true if it's some sort of wild color.

[pokey64]

Bs.

Old wives tail. I've touched it up at least a dozen times on my current build. Only remotely true if it's some sort of wild color.


What did you use to touch it up?

[wmhjr]

Normal paint. On semi-gloss black powdercoated paint, just semi-gloss duplicolor worked perfectly. First touch up 2 years ago. Still perfect today.

Again, if it's a Ridler ISCA indoor show car then it's a different story. However if it's anything else, and in particular if it's one of the "normal" chassis colors (like gloss, semi-gloss or flat black, or silver) then I still scratch my head every time somebody says you can't touch up powdercoating. Heck, I've been touching it up on other stuff for at least 10 years. I don't get it.

[ccracin]

Normal paint. On semi-gloss black powdercoated paint, just semi-gloss duplicolor worked perfectly. First touch up 2 years ago. Still perfect today.

Again, if it's a Ridler ISCA indoor show car then it's a different story. However if it's anything else, and in particular if it's one of the "normal" chassis colors (like gloss, semi-gloss or flat black, or silver) then I still scratch my head every time somebody says you can't touch up powdercoating. Heck, I've been touching it up on other stuff for at least 10 years. I don't get it.

Yea, but your dealing with a RACE car, not a normal street car! :D

[wmhjr]

It's a pretty shiny race car, though :)

[syborg tt]

Here are my thoughts

Chassis - POR or Paint
Why: Most frames need a little body work and you can't powder it once it's body worked.

Anything that bolts to the chassis - Powder

[wmhjr]

Here are my thoughts

Chassis - POR or Paint
Why: Most frames need a little body work and you can't powder it once it's body worked.

Anything that bolts to the chassis - Powder

I don't understand what you're saying. What do you mean by "most frames need a little body work"? Assuming that the frame is off the body to start with (otherwise powder isn't even an option). Or is it that you still believe for some reason that you can't touch up a powder coated frame if you need to modify it? Just trying to understand the logic here.

[syborg tt]

I don't understand what you're saying. What do you mean by "most frames need a little body work"? Assuming that the frame is off the body to start with (otherwise powder isn't even an option). Or is it that you still believe for some reason that you can't touch up a powder coated frame if you need to modify it? Just trying to understand the logic here.

Rust & pitting in most cases

New Frames - not needed

[wmhjr]

Rust & pitting in most cases

New Frames - not needed

OK, so exactly what is different about elimination of rust and/or pitting that makes powder undesirable? If you are prepping the frame to begin with (dipping, blasting, etc) then what's the difference? Let's face it, if you're using POR, then you're not going for a super smooth attractive finish. I'm still not understanding what you're saying.

[syborg tt]

OK, so exactly what is different about elimination of rust and/or pitting that makes powder undesirable? If you are prepping the frame to begin with (dipping, blasting, etc) then what's the difference? Let's face it, if you're using POR, then you're not going for a super smooth attractive finish. I'm still not understanding what you're saying.

Ok my choice would personally be bodywork and paint. Not POR becuase it isn't baby butt smooth.

I've seen shops powder a frame then smooth out the ruff spots and then paint it.

Unless you have hours upon hours to smooth ( metal work ) a rusty frame that you are trying to make look semi-show quality Powder isn't the way to go.

?? are you from Cali by any chance

[wmhjr]

Ok my choice would personally be bodywork and paint. Not POR becuase it isn't baby butt smooth.

I've seen shops powder a frame then smooth out the ruff spots and then paint it.

Unless you have hours upon hours to smooth ( metal work ) a rusty frame that you are trying to make look semi-show quality Powder isn't the way to go.

?? are you from Cali by any chance

Nope. Not from CA.

If you're trying to build a total show car frame that will be suspended and have mirrors and lights under it, then paint is the only way to go. But then, you're not driving the car and CERTAINLY not "pro-touring" the car. I'm talking about high end custom paint.

How many people here are smoothing their frames to remove all pits and marks? 1%? 3%? My build competed (and won) in multiple ISCA shows. The frame was original, got sandblasted, I did some welding for reinforcement, and it got powdercoated. And that stuff is TOUGH. The other thing is that powder is thicker, and fills many of the imperfections that paint will not.

Guess we'll just agree to disagree, but the only 3 times I'd recommend paint over powdercoat are:

1) If you're building a total, all out, indoor ISCA show car that you're not planning to drive much.

2) If you have no money at all and do not have a reasonable powder coater in your area.

3) If you cannot pull the body off the frame.

[56pickup]

Here are my thoughts

Chassis - POR or Paint
Why: Most frames need a little body work and you can't powder it once it's body worked.

Anything that bolts to the chassis - Powder

Rust & pitting in most cases

New Frames - not needed

Ok my choice would personally be bodywork and paint. Not POR becuase it isn't baby butt smooth.

I've seen shops powder a frame then smooth out the ruff spots and then paint it.

Unless you have hours upon hours to smooth ( metal work ) a rusty frame that you are trying to make look semi-show quality Powder isn't the way to go.

?? are you from Cali by any chance



I agree 100%

[ccracin]

Just to throw this out there Marty and Bill,you can smooth with filler before powder. You just have to use the correct stuff. This works well, http://www.eastwood.com/hi-temp-lab-metal-24-oz.html
I have not used it, but a friend has and I have seen the results. Not bad at all. It can be thinned with solvent for spreadability and also smoothed with a solvent soaked cloth. This may be the route we go. Just thought you would both be interested. :thumbsup: :cheers:

[syborg tt]

Actually I agree with you. I like/love powder and your right most people don't need the Show Car look. I am going to powder most everything that I can on my car. The goal is to take it out and beat the crud out of it and Powder can withstand the abuse.

A good friend Powder a Mountain Bike Frame almost 15 years ago and I've beat the crap out of it and there isn't a chip on it. Plenty of dents - no chips.


Nope. Not from CA.

If you're trying to build a total show car frame that will be suspended and have mirrors and lights under it, then paint is the only way to go. But then, you're not driving the car and CERTAINLY not "pro-touring" the car. I'm talking about high end custom paint.

How many people here are smoothing their frames to remove all pits and marks? 1%? 3%? My build competed (and won) in multiple ISCA shows. The frame was original, got sandblasted, I did some welding for reinforcement, and it got powdercoated. And that stuff is TOUGH. The other thing is that powder is thicker, and fills many of the imperfections that paint will not.

Guess we'll just agree to disagree, but the only 3 times I'd recommend paint over powdercoat are:

1) If you're building a total, all out, indoor ISCA show car that you're not planning to drive much.

2) If you have no money at all and do not have a reasonable powder coater in your area.

3) If you cannot pull the body off the frame.

[214Chevy]

I have a question that is slightly off topic. First, let me say I prefer powdercoat myself. I too, will powdercoat everything I can...i.e., frame, control arms, brackets, rear end, etc. Now, the question I have is...other than powder, paint and POR, what in the hell is the "other" option that some of the guys are voting for? Didn't know there was anything else you could do other than the three aforementioned choices.

[out2kayak]

For other, I was thinking some sort of plating (chrome, nickle, etc.), aluminizing (http://www.vaporkote.com/aluminizing.htm), or some other similar process.

As well, I suppose you could wrap it in Kevlar.

Bottom-line is that you are only limited by your imagination and pocket book.:thumbsup:

:cheers:

[Nikwho]

My plan is to prime the frame with epoxy primer after cleaning to bare metal then spray with the Eastwood 2k Ceramic Chassis Black. I am going to use gloss black. All components like rear axle and suspension arms, a-arms, spindles, steering components, tranny cross member etc. are getting powder coated.

[214Chevy]

For other, I was thinking some sort of plating (chrome, nickle, etc.),

Ohhhh, okay. I didn't think of that. Totally blew my mind. I had tunnel vision, because not many muscle car guys chrome their frames. I would think more of low riders doing that kind of stuff.

[64impala]

I used KBS Rust Seal. Great product:thumbsup:

[ProTouring442]

Actually I agree with you. I like/love powder and your right most people don't need the Show Car look. I am going to powder most everything that I can on my car. The goal is to take it out and beat the crud out of it and Powder can withstand the abuse.

A good friend Powder a Mountain Bike Frame almost 15 years ago and I've beat the crap out of it and there isn't a chip on it. Plenty of dents - no chips.

I don't know... I've seen too many Harley frames that, after a few years of abuse, are peeling due to rust migration that started from a simple chip. Of course, everything under my car is semi-flat black or undercoat, but I really like a good paint as it can always be sanded and repainted wherever it needs it. Plus, if I make a modification, I don't have to worry about the heat, I just scuff and paint.

Shiny Side Up!
Bill

[CraigMorrison]

Not sure if it has been mentioned, when we did our '55 chassis, the powdercoating shop did a base coat in zinc and a color topcoat. Both were powders. So, if it does chip, the zinc will offer rust protection. Pretty cool and something to think about for the powdercoat votes.

[jy211]

I had the frame on my 55' project powdercoated. :D

[79 Camaro]

Quick note on powder coat as you prepping the frame or whatever parts.

I like and used powder on frames. Good sand blast to give the metal some "tooth" and it sicks like crazy.

Allot of cracks in powder coat start from a sharp edge. Powder doesn't adhere well over sharp corner like a frame or suspension mount. If you can slightly rounnd edges and the powder will take a hit better and not crack.

Another thing is layers of powder. The more layers you have the better the chances of attachment bolts will crack the powder coat they are tighten. Split lockers washers are tough on powder coat.

The company I work for has a powder coat shop and does zinc, nickel and anodizing. Nickel is very durable. I've used it allot on things like hood hinges,
headers, and latchs. Nickel "wears" better if parts rub on each other.

[badmatt]

Stationary I like to use a ceramic paint.

anything that moves: Electroless or Sulfamate Nickle.