C5 - changing balancer - What all do I need to remove to get the steering rack out?

[wiedemab]

OK, so I haven't gotten to the point of even changing the balancer yet, but I have the correct puller and install tool for the job (I just bought them). My issue is getting the steering rack out of the car.

I read up on LS1Howto.com about the procedure that guy used. He was doing a head and cam swap so he removed a lot more than I thought I would have to - - - but maybe not. He took out the radiator, completely removed the power steering pump and brackets and unbolted the ABS unit and moved it out of the way.

I had hoped to just disconnect the power steering lines at the rack, unbolt it and remove it. Needless to say, I haven't been able to get it out either the PS or DS of the car.

I don't want to remove more than I have to ie: radiator............ Does anyone know how much needs to be removed to get it out of the car.

Any help is appreciated. At this point, any labor bill to have someone else do it is sounding cheap! I like the car, but it is a PTA to work on.

Thanks,

Brandon

[wiedemab]

I found this on MagnaCharger's site.

http://www.magnacharger.com/pdf/manual-ChevroletCorvette1997-04Intercooled.pdf

The recommend loosening the front bolts of the cradle and prying it down. I guess I will try that -- - Tomorrow night

Any other suggestions are welcome. I know there are more than one way to skin a cat.

Thanks

[Neil B]

When I did this, I disconnected the PS lines at the rack and pulled the pump, bracket, and lines as an assembly. The PS cooler needs to come out too. The radiator does not need to come out to pull the rack but you will have to remove the EBCM bracket and move the unit out of the way. You will need to pry on the rack but be VERY careful when doing it so that you don't bend or break the mounting ears off of the aluminum cradle.

I did not have to loosen the cradle bolts like Magnuson shows - I think you need to do this to pull the rack out of the driver's side, but I was able to get mine out by moving the rack towards the passenger side and then out the bottom. I think LS1Howto recommends just moving the rack to the passenger side out of the way. I found it easier just to take the rack completely out of the car by first bringing the rack forward and then tilting it down and out on the passenger side. Once the driver's side of the rack clears the EBCM, bring the rack back towards the drivers side and out the bottom. It requires the rack to be twisted as it comes out if that makes sense. Make sure you have enough clearance on each side of the car to pull the rack. PM me if you need more info.

Also, use a GOOD line wrench on the fittings, the cheap ones will bend before you can get it tight enough. The hardest part of the job for me was reaching the fittings through the driver's side wheel well.

One more thing, make absolutely sure the steering wheel doesn't move after the rack is disconnected from the column.

[WSSix]

I've done this countless times. You can leave the raditor in but you'll have to be careful removing the balancer since the tools will be long and come close to the radiator.

Disconnect the battery. Remove the fans. Leave the PS pump in place. Unbolt the EBTCM. Remove sway bar. Unbolt lines from rack. Remove the return line completely especially if you have a PS cooler. The pressure hose can stay. Unbolt steering column from rack. You only need to make sure you put the rack and column back how they came off the car. So if the column rotates a little when removed, simply rotate it back to where it was. The issues only occur if the steering wheel gets rotated and then reattached.

You can simply move the rack off to the passenger side and let it hang out the side and get the crank pulley off. Much easier said then done though. You'll have to rotate the rack and wiggle it and cuss a few times but it'll fit through enough that it will be out of the way. You'll probably need to tie the left tie rod up to the top of the engine to keep it from hanging down into your way.

You do have the correct pulley installer correct?

This is a pain in the butt job. If you can't stand under the car, you'll want to remove the rack from the car completely. Either un bolt the front and pry down or just lower the whole craddle. It's only four bolts hold it in place and there are alignment dowels so it's not that big of a deal. You can get the alignment checked afterwards if you're worried.

Have lot of towels and or oil dry for the PS fluid that will come out everywhere.

[Neil B]

One more thing...go over to LS1tech and buy a balancer install tool from '618HAWK'.

[wiedemab]

I bought this install tool from Scoggin Dickey.

http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-dickey-parts-center/sd6628

I bought this balancer puller

http://www.summitracing.com/parts/OTC-6667/

I will give it another whirl tonight. Thanks for the info.

[Fluid Power]

Are the balancers a problem on the LS's?

Darren

[wiedemab]

My car has quite a few miles on it, but if you search on the Corvette forums it seems to be pretty common that they go bad. Mine started to wobble - the rubber between the inner and outer is letting loose.

[Neil B]

The Scoggin-Dickey tool looks nearly identical to the original LS1tech tool. It should work great.

If you ever think you might add a supercharger, you may want to consider pinning the crank and loctiting the cam bolts while you've got the balancer off because that's 80% of the work.

[wiedemab]

The Scoggin-Dickey tool looks nearly identical to the original LS1tech tool. It should work great.

If you ever think you might add a supercharger, you may want to consider pinning the crank and loctiting the cam bolts while you've got the balancer off because that's 80% of the work.

No plans for a supercharger on this car, but I appreciate the suggestion.

[wiedemab]

Just thought I'd update this thread. The car is back together and seems to be doing well.

I ended up loosening the entire engine cradle and dropping it down just enough to get the rack out the driver's side, which went fairly smoothly.

I went ahead and put in a C5R timing chain from Katech and a ported and shimmed LS6 oil pump - thanks to Danny Popp from Raft Racing for the suggestions and the help. What a difference that makes on oil pressure!

I also decided to fix my AC system. While I had it apart I put a new compressor, drier/accumulator and flushed the whole system. All new o-rings too.

I have yet to get my C6 Z06 oil cooler plumbed and mounted, but hope to put the car up on a buddy's lift and do that in the next week or so.