Do I need to degree my cam

[scherp69]

I plan on replacing the VVT cam in my L92 with a non VVT 3 bolt cam over the next few days. Do I need to degree it? I've read mixed reviews as to whether it is worth it. If I should, does anyone have an easy detailed way to do it? Not sure if it matters, but the cam I have is a custom grind that Patrick Guerra did for me. It's a Comp Cams cam done to his specs. Thanks in advance.

[70rs]

Hey Mike,
There is a lot of good instructional stuff on how to degree your cam.

If you really want to maximize the potential of your cam, you should degree it.

Call the guy that spec'd the cam, see how he feels about his design and the factory accuracy maybe?

If you are running a high lift/ tight tollerance with piston to valve clearance you really need to degree it.

Did you discuss checking your pushrod length after you install the cam? Your stock ones probably won't work......

[GregWeld]

I've never installed a cam without degreeing it.... It takes a very few minutes and there's really no reason "not to". It'd be like not checking bearing clearances or valve to piston clearances.... or the valve train geometry...

Once you put the motor together --- and if SOMETHING isn't right --- then you'd be laying awake at night wondering if the cam was the culprit etc.

[scherp69]

Hey Mike,
There is a lot of good instructional stuff on how to degree your cam.
As to wheather or not you NEED to is open to debate.

You can install your cam as the mfgr suggests and be fine. If you really want to maximize the potential of your cam, you should degree it.

Call the guy that spec'd the cam, see how he feels about his design and the factory accuracy maybe?

Yeah I saw there's lots of stuff out there on how to do it. Some was better than others. Also found lots of different opinions. I've actually sent Patrick an email to see what his thoughts are. Just wondering what most guys on here are doing.

[70rs]

Mike,
I had to edit my post. You should degree it. You're changing a bunch of things by eliminating the VVT. It would be easy, cheap insurance and as Greg said, you know its done right.

[scherp69]

Thanks guys. I am probably doing to deree it, it's just one more thing I need to learn how to do...and go get a degree kit. Can I do it with the heads still on? I see some ways are done with the heads off.

[camcojb]

the last LQ9 I put together with a Pat G cam was off several degrees; not Pat's fault, it was the double roller timing chain and gears that I used, believe it was Edelbrock but don't quote me. I had to use the 3 degree keyway to get the cam to come in where it was supposed to be straight up, as tested by Pat on his machine.

Degree the cam............... :yes:

[OLDFLM]

You can either trust luck or take the time to make sure it's right.

I still remember my Dad had a 71 GTX 440 that he bought new. He used to say that it was a "Monday car" because everything worked so well together. "He never saw a stock big block Mopar that would shift at 5500rpm on it's own and chirp the tires"... stuff like that. It really hauled the mail!

I always wondered if this was just one of those cars where luck had the cam in the right spot or just a good tech on the assembly line? Versus say my step-brothers with their hopped-up Super Bees who couldn't hang with the old-mans GTX?

Luckily for us they days of the old hot rodders who had their own tricks and "knew how to really make a car run" are over. It's easier to find parts now than it was 20 years ago and it's easier to get GOOD advice than it was 20 years ago! Advice that works becuase it's based on science and proven practices, not luck.

Degree your cam! :lateral: