!2 bolt conversion bearings

[SSDan]

Well...I will be modifying my rear end and removing the c clips for the new Wilwood disk brake setup. The problem is....I'm getting mixed advice about the bearings. I may race the car at the local quarter mile, but I will be cruising mostl of the time!

Global West says go with the ball bearing style bearings. They are used for drag racing, but....Pyle Brothers, that will do the conversion, says the ball bearings will leak after 10,000 or less miles. Pyle Brothers says you need to go with the roller style bearings for cruising and they will not leak like the ball bearings...

Whom do you believe??

[quadfather]

strange sells a 12 bolt housing end that uses a 3.150 dia. ford style brg. it still has a gm pattern for the the brakes . or you could just put ford housing ends on . either way they make a tapered roller brg. with an inner seal that fits over a step in brg. with the seal inboard of the brg. you won.t have to depend on the o-ring seal of the race style brg. i use theese in many street cars and they work well.

[Todds69]

Moser sells the same thing. They also told me the C-clip Elim. kits do leak after time, and if remember correctly they quite a bit.

[SSDan]

I plan on going with Moser. They were more helpful than Strange. My problem is...I was told by one company ineed to go with roller style tapered bearings by one company and the other says ball bearings. Whom do you believe.

Thanks

Dan

[dougs68ss]

yes, i have the moser kit installed on my 12 bolt also, been on for ayear now no leaks..if you follow the instructions and grind down the housing ends enough for it to sit flush your fine. i looked at willwood too, but decided to use the baer because of the e-brake provision wilwood used to carry a kit for c-clip elim. with floating manual caliper for e brake. baer has taken this into thought and made kit s that work (integrated single piston e brake on caliper and clears alum housing of axel bearing) is was going nuts trying to figure this out myself ! good luck

[SSDan]

The reason I went with Wilwood is...I could get help from them where Baer was the pits and I did call them several times. There are two types of C clip eliminator kits. One is a bolt on, the other has to have the ends chopped off and new ones welded on. I'm going with the weld style.

My question is......which style bearing to use? What do you have on yours? Do you have over 10,000 miles on the bearings?

Thanks
Dan

[dougs68ss]

The reason I went with Wilwood is...I could get help from them where Baer was the pits and I did call them several times. There are two types of C clip eliminator kits. One is a bolt on, the other has to have the ends chopped off and new ones welded on. I'm going with the weld style.

My question is......which style bearing to use? What do you have on yours? Do you have over 10,000 miles on the bearings?

Thanks
Dan
mine are the bolt on style, no ido not have 10,000 miles on them yet. pull em off and recilicone the flanges. its up to you. there is a million ways to go....doug

[Steve68]

I had a Strange kit on my car, never leaked, I'm looking to get rid of my cut housing for a stock style, you have to cut the bearing area down to a 1/4 inch, I can sent it to DTS but with the Ford bearing ends axles cost $450, if I can't find a housing I might send it off,

what can Moser or other do???

[dougs68ss]

try currie engineering .they make some sweet components...

[SSDan]

The consensus seems to be tapered roller bearing for my application.

I plan to get the axles, ends and bearings from Moser. They can do the job, but recomended Pyle Bros. in Baytown, which is in my neck of the woods.

[Silver69Camaro]

I have the tapered Timken bearings on my 12-bolt. They can handle more severe lateral loads than a ball bearing type.