Radiator hose fabrication

[Lenie]

I'd like to build my own radiator hose and would like to know the suggested type and size of metal tubing to purchase and where. Any Ideas, suggestions or build tips would be appreciated.
Thanks ahead of time.
Lenie

[pokey64]

I've been contemplating this as well. I have 1 1/2" sanitary stainless tubing and fittings available to me. I'm not a fan of the flexible hose options and want something nicer than rubber. I have not done any research if that size is right yet. I'm interested in what other would suggest as well.

[ErikLS2]

I'm doing mine with AN fittings and hose, I ordered my radiator with AN fittings on it and I'm setting up my water pump with stuff from these guys: http://myworld.ebay.com/ebaymotors/custombuiltmotors/

Rodger from Ironworks is an XRP dealer and hooking me up with the stuff for the plumbing. Goodridge has some cool ends too in black/brushed and a hose with corrugated Teflon liner (XRP does too). It will last forever and never leak. It's not the cheapest route but it looks awesome.

[Lenie]

Can someone chime in with the recommended size of tubing to use? I'm anxious to get started:lol: Look how old my build thread is LOL, how much of a hurry am I really in.

[Vegas69]

Whatever factory ID is would be my choice.

[HotRod68Camaro]

I would check out the Supra forums, that's what a lot of those guys do with their radiator hoses.

[DRJDVM's '69]

As for tube size.... just measure the stock rubber hose....

My question is more about the ends...... if you run a short section of rubber at the ends to connect to the rad and water neck.....do you need to put some form of flare etc to stop the hose from shooting off or leaking ?

[GregWeld]

I'd like to build my own radiator hose and would like to know the suggested type and size of metal tubing to purchase and where. Any Ideas, suggestions or build tips would be appreciated.
Thanks ahead of time.
Lenie

Lenie --

Tim Bruning has a lead on absolutely MARVELOUS perfectly round heavy gauge SS tubing. It's a food grade so it's even polished on the inside! My headers and exhaust on the '32 is made out of it. The key to this tubing is that no matter where you cut in a bend... the cuts match since there is no distortion.

I tried to find a link to the supplier but couldn't find it.

If you don't have a way to contact him - call me and I'll get you two in touch.

[ironworks]

You can make the bead on the end of the hardline in 2 ways, You can weld a tall bean all the way around the tubing or you can buy the tool to form a bead on the end of it. It can be tough to do this in stainless tubing without a tough bead roller. But aluminum tubing rolls like butter.

The biggest your going to find in AN is the #24 when you can find it. #20 is pretty easy to find and get all parts to go that way. If you plan it out that way when you buy the radiator most places will put #20 fitting there from the get go. I usually do the upper hose in AN because it looks slick. But it can be just as spendy as building a stainless hardline.

Detail Details

http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/tt248/ironworksspeed/Chassisworks%20Camaro/ShopPicsAugust2010044.jpg
http://i616.photobucket.com/albums/tt248/ironworksspeed/Chassisworks%20Camaro/ShopPicsAugust2010043.jpg

[GregWeld]

As for tube size.... just measure the stock rubber hose....

My question is more about the ends...... if you run a short section of rubber at the ends to connect to the rad and water neck.....do you need to put some form of flare etc to stop the hose from shooting off or leaking ?

NO... get your tubing to within about 1/2" of the connection point. There's really no pressure trying to blow the hose off... if you get close fit up. Also -- see my post to Lenie. You want to use a heavy gauge stainless so you don't deform the tube when using the hose clamp... etc. Don't use tinfoil grade.

[ironworks]

NO... get your tubing to within about 1/2" of the connection point. There's really no pressure trying to blow the hose off... if you get close fit up. Also -- see my post to Lenie. You want to use a heavy gauge stainless so you don't deform the tube when using the hose clamp... etc. Don't use tinfoil grade.

Actually Greg there is 16 lbs of pressure and when the hose is wet it can push itself out. I know a guy who was badly burned by this. The Koolflex hose is even worse for this. Because of the contact surface area in the hose being less due to the shape of the stainless hose. The upper hose on a car is more likely to push out with the flow from the water pump. The bead on the hose is good insurance.

[GregWeld]

Actually Greg there is 16 lbs of pressure and when the hose is wet it can push itself out. I know a guy who was badly burned by this. The Koolflex hose is even worse for this. Because of the contact surface area in the hose being less due to the shape of the stainless hose. The lower hose on a car is more likely to push out with the flow from the water pump. The bead on the hose is good insurance.

True enough.... and it certainly doesn't hurt to add a little "insurance" by adding some type of a bead. I've personally never had an issue. But that doesn't mean it can't happen.

NED -- A guy could just add a bead made from SS fill rod... bent around near the end of the tube and tacked carefully alternating sides every 1/4" or so.... crude but doable for the home builder.

Typical SBC (I know Ned is MoPar) is SUCTION on the lower hose.

[rwhite692]

I intend to either make or buy a tubing bead roller to produce that bead on all of my turbo/intercooler plumbing. My existing bead roller won't work too well, to do it.

Ready made tool:

http://inlinethumb43.webshots.com/44586/2256767570011691741S500x500Q85.jpg


One guy on the turbo forums used an old vise, and a set of homemade dies to roll the needed beads. Simple, and certainly dirt cheap to do, if you have access to a lathe to make up the dies from scrap material. I would probably make up a smaller die set, so that it would be able to fit inside of the coolant tubing.


http://inlinethumb42.webshots.com/46505/2455687510011691741S500x500Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb34.webshots.com/33889/2704386380011691741S500x500Q85.jpg

http://inlinethumb03.webshots.com/46978/2222606490011691741S500x500Q85.jpg

[Lenie]

Lenie --

Tim Bruning has a lead on absolutely MARVELOUS perfectly round heavy gauge SS tubing. It's a food grade so it's even polished on the inside! My headers and exhaust on the '32 is made out of it. The key to this tubing is that no matter where you cut in a bend... the cuts match since there is no distortion.

I tried to find a link to the supplier but couldn't find it.

If you don't have a way to contact him - call me and I'll get you two in touch.

Perfect, thanks Greg, I'll give Tim a call.

[GregWeld]

Dude!

Just step up and order one of these bad boys!

http://vansantent.com/bead_tool_electric.htm

[Lenie]

Dude!

Just step up and order one of these bad boys!

http://vansantent.com/bead_tool_electric.htm


Mmmmm I could afford the lube, it's a universal tool:lol: