Body Seams

[snappytravis]

So what about filling all the body seams like the rear panel, panel below back glass and fender to header panel? Just don't like the seams below back glass but I am still not sure about the rear tailight panel seams. pos some pics thanks

[70TWO NOVA]

My buddy did that on his 68 Firebird.....
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj98/7dtwoo/mitches%20bird/Picture006.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj98/7dtwoo/mitches%20bird/19june097.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj98/7dtwoo/mitches%20bird/19june095.jpg
http://i270.photobucket.com/albums/jj98/7dtwoo/mitches%20bird/IMG_0082.jpg

[snappytravis]

Thanks for the pics

[speedshftr]

i have a 68 camaro and have the front upper and lower fenders made into one i also have the front upper header panel and lower valance welded to fenders.i love the uniform look.ill try to add pictures
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v471/viperich/07-02-10_1420.jpg
http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v471/viperich/gg.jpg

[Firebird Kid]

i also filled in the back under-window seams. i just went over it with light coats of body filler over the factory seam sealer. is there a different way i shouldve done it? looking back i dont want it to crack and ruin the paint. how is your guys' holding up?

[meenaggie]

All of the camaros I have seen "fill" the seams with body filler crack over time. I am sure there are some better fillers out there with fiber reinforcement but if you want it to last you need to weld it. And before you weld it you need to get all of the factory seam sealer out of the joint (try a soda blaster or spot sand blaster).

[speedshftr]

my car was fully handstripped by me then everything was welded up before any filler went on.i know the do tend to crack though.hek that will give me a reason to tear it apart again/lolkidding

[Jim Nilsen]

I filled my seams with seam sealer to make them flat as possible.

You can add extra sealer over the seam and let it setup for a week and then go back and trim it down flat to the surface or sculpt it in the corners of the tail panel and then epoxy over it. It can then be treated with primer and paint and will be good for as long as any seam sealer job would except it will look 10 x better. You do have to be able to let the car sit while it is shrinking down but I can't think of any car at that point that doesn't have a weeks worth of work to be before paint unless you wait to do the seems last.

When in the sun you can't see the seams on my car and it has to get really cool temp wise and be at the right angle to see the small amount of a seam shadow that shows.

You can also do the qtr to rear panel in the corners of the trunk lid area with the seam sealer the same way and it will be smooth and never crack.

I have had really good luck with this method and the seams could never be better looking or as invisible as they are.

[aktmracer]

I just had this same discusion last week with a friend, I thought it would look good but was worried if it did'nt it's to late. Im just about at the point where I need to make a choice and after seeing those pics I think I'm going for it. Your cars look great. Anyone with a 60's chevelle filled in please post some pics...

[elitecustombody]

I just had this same discusion last week with a friend, I thought it would look good but was worried if it did'nt it's to late. Im just about at the point where I need to make a choice and after seeing those pics I think I'm going for it. Your cars look great. Anyone with a 60's chevelle filled in please post some pics...

If you're going to smooth the seams, weld them,but if you don't mind seeing the ghost lines of the seams or worse ,cracks ,then you can use filler or seam sealer.

my .02 cents

[Jim Nilsen]

If you're going to smooth the seams, weld them,but if you don't mind seeing the ghost lines of the seams or worse ,cracks ,then you can use filler or seam sealer.

my .02 cents

The problem with welding is that the next crack you will get will be next to the weld and the metal will be fatigued enough to be hard to repair.The torture we put these car through can flex the body hard enough the crack and pull at the seams. Not all cars are built the same so some it matters and some it doesn't. Unibody cars tend to flex all over.

Leading the area is the best thing if you can keep from warping the panels and not have it run all over. if you know someone who knows how to lead you are ahead of the game.

I have not had one area of sealer done the way I have done it have the paint crack on the surface after 10 yrs.

[elitecustombody]

The problem with welding is that the next crack you will get will be next to the weld and the metal will be fatigued enough to be hard to repair.The torture we put these car through can flex the body hard enough the crack and pull at the seams. Not all cars are built the same so some it matters and some it doesn't. Unibody cars tend to flex all over.


Leading the area is the best thing if you can keep from warping the panels and not have it run all over. if you know someone who knows how to lead you are ahead of the game.


I have not had one area of sealer done the way I have done it have the paint crack on the surface after 10 yrs.

Jim, just wondering,you're stating that your seam sealer is somehow stronger than lead,brazing or welding?

If someone if planning on putting their car through extremes,they would have a cage,SFCs to make the unibody more rigid, and if the welds are done right,the seams will not crack if welded,simply take the time to not only run a bead on the exterior, but reinforce them from the backside and all corners,

Leading will still crack if seams are not reinforced,brazing and leading would be a better option if welding is out of the question.

[The WidowMaker]

elite, how would you recommend welding them. series of tacks like other sheet metal work? or would you go hot and deal with a little warpage? i have a chevelle, but am looking for what to do about the quarter to roof, quarter to filler above the trunk and the quarters to rockers.

thanks, Tim

[elitecustombody]

To keep warpage to a minimum tack every inch or so ,keep repeating till the seam is welded ,don't ever try to weld a seam in one shot. I usually have a air blower and use it after each tack to keep metal cool and eliminate any warping,just don't blow while welding .

[Jim Nilsen]

Jim, just wondering,you're stating that your seam sealer is somehow stronger than lead,brazing or welding?

If someone if planning on putting their car through extremes,they would have a cage,SFCs to make the unibody more rigid, and if the welds are done right,the seams will not crack if welded,simply take the time to not only run a bead on the exterior, but reinforce them from the backside and all corners,

Leading will still crack if seams are not reinforced,brazing and leading would be a better option if welding is out of the question.


I am saying the seam sealer is less likely to crack at the paint and that if you weld the seam you make the steel brittle and it can crack at the edge of the weld not at the seam anymore.

If you have a leaf spring car the loads on the rear panel and rear window areas take a lot of twisting loads, if you have a 4 link or other type of suspension the loads aren't transmitted though the quarter panels anymore. It really depends on the car if you can get away with welding seams, but the way we thrash our cars we put a lot of stress on the skin and even a 10 point cage won't stop some of it from still happening.

Most of the high end cars just use regular factory style seam sealer and let you see them ,so it's not that big of a deal when you can see them compared to when the paint cracks and you get water in your seams.

I also seam welded my wheel wells, rockers on the pinchweld end so I didn't have to use seam sealer on them at all. The use of seam sealer was kept to a minimum so it would stop any chances of water getting up in the pinchweld.

Hope that makes it a bit more clear.
:cheers:

I made sure my seams were hammered and dollied to the exact shape to match each sides on all the pinch welds and I added lots of extra spot welds to make it all stronger. Putting the extra spot welds in put the stress of the load at a different angle and allows the corner strength of the bend on the pinch weld to work for you.